procured, but it has not been my lot to partake of any of this superior
sort. The natives have not much relish for mutton: sheep were, at one
time, of so little value, that, in the country, they were killed, and
used as fuel for brick-kilns. This has improved, and will continue
to do so, from the number of well-stocked sheep farms, that now send
large droves far into the interior for sale. Mr. Halsey, an American
gentleman, has a large concern of this nature.
The poultry bought in the market are not of the best description; they
are in general, diminutive and tough. To have good poultry, it is
necessary for persons to fatten them themselves, or purchase them at
farms that can be depended upon. Ducks are better; the turkeys are
large, and, when properly reared, eat tender; the geese are indifferent.
Partridges are large and tender, and very excellent. The ordinary
poultry, in a manner, live upon beef, for which they seem to have a
peculiar _penchant_. I have seen beef and corn placed before turkeys,
and they preferred the former. In a place where so many animals exist
upon beef, the pig, it may be believed, comes in for his full share.
Indeed, all animals, in this country, appear to live upon beef. The
quantity that is wasted would be most acceptable to the poor in populous
Europe.
This country is as famous for the quantity of beef produced, as the Cape
of Good Hope is for sheep. A bullock now costs eight dollars, without
the hide; formerly, they could be purchased at ten reals. The hide now
sells for six dollars. Some of the _estancias_ have from forty to fifty
thousand head of cattle of all classes.
An order exists, that beef is not to be sold at more than three reals
the arroba, at market. The year of 1823 was one of great drought, and
the cattle perished by thousands: the beef market was in so terrible a
condition, that scarcely any were to be had, and what there was was very
bad; for cattle could not be brought to market, but at a very great loss
to the owners. The impolicy of a fixed price in an open market, except
when monopoly is apprehended, was fully proved. When any beef came to
market, there was perfect fighting for it with the slaves and servants
of families and others. The poor endured privations with patience: John
Bull would have been more riotous.
Besides the principal market, there are others in different parts of the
town; and beef is sold in carts, that take their stations in yards and
outbuildings, holding a butcher's shop, the ground serving for block.
The first sight of this operation, so different to the cleanliness and
style of English butcher's shops, is sufficient to disgust a stranger.
Salt, or corned beef, is only to be had good in winter, and then it is
nothing like that we get in England. It is only at English or American
tables this dish is to be seen: the natives pretend not to understand
it; I have seen them, notwithstanding, partake of a buttock of beef with
great relish.
A beef-steak is so entirely an English dish, that it preserves in all
climates its original name: they may be had in the coffee-houses here,
but, like the French "_bif-tik_," are no great things.
The Gauchos in the country exist upon beef: bread is a rarity with them.
Having no ovens, they are obliged to roast the beef upon sticks placed
lengthwise. I wish they were under the same necessity in Buenos Ayres; I
should eat it with much better appetite. The true roast beef is only to
be obtained amongst those Gauchos.[21]
[21] These Gauchos are a peculiar race: some wear their hair long,
and plaited, Chinese fashion; and, in addition to their other
singularities of dress, they wear handkerchiefs tied under the chin,
and hanging loose behind. A group of them in a field, seated round a
fire, is all we can fancy of Macbeth's witches.
_Carné conquiero_ (beef baked with part of the hide attached), and
_mater ambre_, or kill hunger (baked beef, with sauce _piquant_), is
relished by many here; but I am not one of the number.
The sausages I should like, were it not for the abhorrent garlic in
them.
The dainties of English hams, cheese, potatoes, &c. are bought at the
stores; the two former, at four reals the pound; the latter, one real:
the duties are rather high upon them. Bottled beer may be purchased at
four reals per bottle; and draught beer may sometimes be had. Articles
of the above description are almost wholly imported from England. The
length of the voyage will not permit our rich English cheeses to be
brought here; consequently, we are deprived of the luxury of a real
"Welch rabbit." The Penco cheese, brought from the district of that
name, in Chili, approaches nearest to our toasting cheese.
Bread is dear: two small loaves (a trifle larger than our French rolls),
one madio. They decrease the size according to the price of flour. That
made of American flour is the best. They are, at present, entirely
dependent upon foreign importation; and the Americans have taken away
immense sums of money. The corn of the country, from some unaccountable
cause--a want of attention, or deficient harvests--is nothing equal to
the demand. They generally grind the corn at the bakehouses, which, by a
late order, are removed out of town. Mules are employed in the grinding.
Tea is not much drank by the natives, though more so than formerly. In
English families, it is, as at home, an article of the first necessity;
it sells here from 1 to 1½ dollar per lb. Coffee is 3½ reals per lb.
Lump sugar, dear and scarce; that of Havannah and Brazils is used.
Chocolate, from 2½ to 3 reals per lb.
Altogether, living in Buenos Ayres is much more expensive than in
England, without its various comforts.
Here are wines of all sorts, "from humble Port to imperial Tokay," and
but little good. Port and Madeira are retailed at one dollar per bottle;
champaigne, a dollar and a half. Of French and Spanish wines, there
are great quantities. The cheapest and common drink is the wine of
Catalonia, or, as it is denominated, Carlon wine, which is sold at from
two to three reals per bottle, and is far from an unpleasant beverage.
Not much wine is made in the country; that of Mendoza has a sweet taste,
like our homemade wines.
Beer is only used as a _bonne bouche_. Bottled beer has not that relish
to me, that the London draught porter has. Brandy, gin, and rum, are
abundant. The latter arrives from the Brazils, Havannah, and Isle of
France. The good old Jamaica rum is a scarce commodity. Caña, a sort of
white brandy, from the Havannah, Brazils, and Spain, and called Spanish
brandy, is much drank, and makes capital punch.
The vegetables of this country, to my thinking, are not very enticing.
We miss the delicious flavour of the summer cabbage, large asparagus,
and peas, that we have at home. A good salad, with cucumbers and onions,
may be procured. Turnips are scarce and bad. Indian corn grows in
abundance.
English potatoes are much sought after: the packet sailors have brought
a great many;[22] and so eager were the English potatoe merchants to
obtain them, that they quarrelled one with the other, and their disputes
were referred to the Consulado, who must have imbibed strange opinions
of the trading English. All efforts to raise potatoes on this soil have
failed: they are small and insipid. An Englishman, Mr. Billinghurst, has
been endeavouring, some years, to effect this object without success.
Those grown at Monte Video are something better. In Peru, they are
thought equal, if not superior, to our's: but our islands appear to be
their home.
[22] The packet sailors are allowed a portion of trade; and the most
profitable of their imports have been potatoes and game-cocks. These
packet sailors are complete pedlars.
The peaches in their season, from January to March, are excellent, and
the consumption great, being esteemed healthy: they are sold in all
parts--in the markets, shops, and hawked about the streets. From eight
to ten can be purchased for a _madio_ (three-pence English money). The
strawberries, apples, pears, cherries, &c. are, for their quality, not
worthy of notice. Grapes are tolerable. Oranges will not thrive in this
climate; and the lemons are very inferior. Gooseberries, currants, and
plums are unknown, except by name. After all the praises bestowed upon
the fruits grown in tropical and warm climates, they cannot, in the
gross, equal those of others. What have they to compensate for the
green-gage, gooseberries, currants, strawberries, cherries, apples,
pears, and plums of every description? Travellers must not believe all
they hear in Europe; they will not find the fields and boughs, in South
America, teeming with every species of fruit, free to those who choose
to gather them.
* * * * *
In addition to those already noticed, this country produces very few
OTHER ANIMAL OR VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS. Indeed, persons who wish to send
presents to England are often at a loss what to forward, the country not
producing any great variety, either in the animal or vegetable world.
The herds of cattle that exist in the Pampas are immense: of this we
can form a tolerably correct estimate from annual exports. In one year a
million of ox and cow hides were exported.
Mules are numerous and cheap; they cost from two to four dollars each.
There is a traffic in them, but not very great, to the Isle of France
and West Indies. The expense of provender and fitting for such a
freight, and the numbers that die during a voyage, lessen the profits
considerably; and vessels will not venture upon each troublesome
shipmates when any thing else offers.
A great many tigers are found up the country, and about the islands of
the river Parana; but they have nothing of the ferocity or terrific
grandeur of the East-Indian tygers: they are, in fact, more like
leopards; and those that I have seen are not larger than a common sheep
dog. They will, however, often attack individuals; and several have been
devoured by them.
The tiger-cats are plentiful.
Buenos Ayres swarms with dogs, and none of them very valuable. An
English bull-dog would beat fifty such. They had an abominable practice
of sending criminals, under a guard, into the streets, armed with heavy
clubs, for the purpose of killing the dogs they met with, leaving the
carcases in the street to rot. Many a pet has been slaughtered this way.
Some more humane method might be devised, to lessen the number of dogs,
than this cruel and disgusting mode: it has been lately discontinued.
Hydrophobia, I conceive, they only know by name, as I have never heard
of any accident from it.
Of the small field animals the nutria, for the sake of its skin, it the
most valuable, and forms a valuable article of export. They are, in
shape, much like rats; but are larger, and have long front teeth
projecting: they are quite harmless.
The _armadillo_ is the South-American hedge-hog, without the prickly
substances they have in Europe: the natives eat them.
Here are, also, the _boscatcha_, or South-American badger; and a pretty
little animal, like a weasel, which is often tamed, and runs about the
house.
Rats and ants are a great annoyance in this country: they swarm in the
houses, and are very active in their vocations. The former are not so
ferocious as the English ones, who often, when retreat is cut off, fight
most ratfully. The Buenos Ayres rats are better educated.
The fire-fly, on summer nights, is seen gliding through the air.
This not being a woody country, the feathered creation presents very
little variety. Here are the canary, cardinal, common sparrow, owls, &c.
About Paraguay, and where it is more intersected, there are some
beautiful birds, including the parrot and parroquet; the latter are
likewise plentiful on the other side of the river, in Entre Rios,
&c.[23]
[23] The parrots brought from the Brazils, Paraguay, &c. to Buenos
Ayres, differ in nothing from those we every day see in England; and
they chatter as loudly, generally in the following strain--"_Lorito
Real_," (Royal Poll); "_Pare la Espana y no para la Portugal!_" (Spain
for ever and no Portugal); "_Est casada?_" (Are you married?) "_Aye,
Jesus!_" (O, Jesus!)
Ostriches are very numerous in the Pampas.
The beautiful and scarce little humming-bird, now and then, makes its
appearance among the lowers. I have made several efforts to catch them,
but without success.
This portion of South America, in the summer of 1824-25, was most
seriously annoyed by locusts; the memory of the oldest inhabitant cannot
recollect such a swarm. The air was darkened, and the ground strewed,
with the millions of those devouring insects: a north wind brought them
down from the Parana, like a snow-storm. The fruit trees, plants, &c.
dreadfully suffered. The inhabitants have an idea, that, by ringing
bells, beating tin saucepans, and other noises of this description,
locusts can be frightened away. An easterly wind, rain, and cold
weather, are, I believe, their only destroyers. The months of December,
1824 and January, 1825, were foggy, dry months, the wind constantly
from the north; and, for want of water, a great mortality took place in
the country among the cattle.
Mushrooms and water-cresses are not very plentiful: they are more found
in the neighbourhood of Ensenada; as are also leeches, for which doctors
give a good price.
The flowers reared in this country must likewise yield, in beauty and
sweetness, to our own: we do not see the polyanthus, moss rose, and many
others that strew their beauties over the British isles.
* * * * *
POPULATION.--The province of Buenos Ayres, which extends nearly 500
miles in length, with a breadth undefined (perhaps equal to its length),
has only a population of about 150,000 souls; and Patagonia, which is
under the same government, 1000.
It is estimated, that in the population of Buenos Ayres, there are five
females to one male. If this be correct, some ladies are likely to come
under the horrid list of old maids. That more female births take place
in comparison with those of Europe cannot be doubted. I know families of
eight, nine, and ten daughters, and perhaps one son. The causes of such
disproportion, I must leave the natural philosophers to develope.
* * * * *
TRADE and MANUFACTURES.--From its extensive produce, Buenos Ayres will
ever command attention in a mercantile point of view.
The exports consist of ox hides of all descriptions, horse hides, horse
hair, wool, tallow, nutria skins, horns, chinchilla skins, salted beef,
and silver in hard dollars and bars.
The quantity of European goods annually imported is very great: I
am surprised how they find vent for them. The cargoes brought from
Liverpool, of manufactured goods, of Manchester, Glasgow, &c. are of
considerable value, often from 70 to 80, and £100,000.
The following is a list of square-rigged merchant vessels that entered
the port of Buenos Ayres in the years 1821, 1822, 1823, and 1824:--
In 1821. In 1822. In 1823. In 1824.
British[24] 128 183 113 110
American 42 75 80 143[25]
French 19 21 24 21
Swedish 7 11 6 14
Sardinian 3 7 6 6
Danish 1 1 5 10
Dutch 2 4 6 8
[24] Of the British vessels, the following were from London and
Liverpool; the remainder from Gibraltar, Rio Janeiro, the Havannah,
&c. &c.
In 1821. In 1822. In 1823. In 1824.
From Liverpool 33 35 23
From London 10 7 8
[25] The number of American vessels in 1824, compared with former
years, is very great. They were chiefly laden with flour, which,
although now a losing speculation, has, lately, been beneficial.
Under the Portuguese, Brazilian, and Buenos Ayrean flags, brigs and
small craft are daily arriving and sailing from and to Rio Janeiro, and
all parts of the Brazils, Patagonia, and trading in the River Plate, and
up the rivers of the interior.
A number of American vessels are sold, as well as broken up, in Buenos
Ayres, which, assuming the flag of the country, trade with Rio Janeiro,
Rio Grande, Patagonia, &c. Many of them are under the command of
Englishmen and North Americans, who, at no great distance of time will
carry the Buenos Ayrean flag to every part of the world. This country
must for some time rely upon foreigners for their shipping. The
population are not maritimely inclined.
Several persons gain a livelihood by leaving notices, or _avisos_, of
vessels arriving, and their cargoes.
A long report upon the trade of this country has been drawn up by a
committee of British merchants, and presented to the Consul, extracts
from which have appeared in the English newspapers. Great talent has
been exhibited in the detail and writing of this report, although I
think the picture has been too highly painted.
Should the trade of Paraguay be thrown open to Buenos Ayres, it will be
of great advantage. The present Governor, Francia, follows the Jesuits'
system; and Pekin is not more secluded from the inspection of strangers.
Some unfortunate Englishmen, who ventured there with goods, had both
their persons and property detained, and no satisfactory intelligence
has been received of them. In February, 1823, a memorial was sent
to Sir Thomas Hardy, by their friends in Buenos Ayres, entreating
his interference. This memorial has been forwarded to the British
government. It is surprising that the people of Paraguay, a country
so rich in its natural productions should be quiet under such severe
restrictions. One is led to suppose, from their passiveness, that they
are content with the system. Francia, however, has lately permitted
communication and trade with the Portuguese in Brazil; Itapua, on the
frontiers, being the depôt town.
They have no regular exchange for the merchants to meet in, at Buenos
Ayres. A new general Commercial Room is about to be established, to
which persons of all nations will be allowed to subscribe. Some late
regulations of the British Room have given offence; the committee of
which, in derision, have been named "the Holy Alliance," and have had
several anonymous letters addressed to them, upon their aristocratical
notions in a foreign country. The refusal to allow any but British
subjects to subscribe to the Commercial Room, has been much commented
upon; some years back it might have been advisable, but at this period
a more liberal system would perhaps be better.
The Creoles of the country now engage in mercantile pursuits with great
avidity; and commerce has spread into so many hands, that money does not
roll in quite so fast as formerly.
The competition amongst the store-keepers materially diminishes their
profits, and reduces the concern upon a level with English chandlers'
shops.
The number of shops in Buenos Ayres is very great; they abound in the
streets leading from the Plaza. Every shop and house has a proportion of
taxes levied upon it: and there is also a species of property tax upon
the English plan. The taxes now imposed considerably diminish the
profits they used to make.
The linen-drapers have a choice assortment from all countries, neatly
arranged. Their shops are well lighted; and although they fall very
short of the splendour of the London ones, yet they are equal to some
of those of our best country towns: they are open till nine and ten at
night. They call the Buenos Ayreans a lazy people: the shopkeepers, at
least, do not merit this epithet.
The shopmen are mostly young men, who appear to have all the persuasive
arts of their brethren in London, prevailing upon their fair customers
to get rid of their money, and subjecting them to a good scolding from
husbands and mammas, for extravagance, leading to pouting and sulks for
a week. Those gentlemen of the shop have a great deal to answer for.
Every article of apparel, both for male and female, can be purchased at
the retail shops, of which there are many: they have coats, waistcoats,
trowsers, &c. hanging in front, in the mode of Monmouth Street. Mr.
Niblett was the first Englishman that opened a shop of this description.
A great many Englishmen have their clothes sent from England: but the
duty and incidental expences make them come as dear as if made here.
Buenos Ayres contains several English tailors, whose work is tolerably
well, considering they have not English workmen; although not with that
exquisite finish which is to be seen in London. A coat will cost thirty
dollars, trowsers twelve; the rest in proportion. The town swarms with
Creolian and other tailors.
Manufactories for hats exist in Buenos Ayres: one of them, Varangot's,
has a considerable trade, and they are really good, from seven to eight
dollars each, far superior to our second-rate hats; the misfortune is,
that on the approach of rainy weather they act as a perfect barometer,
and get limp.
Of the hats imported into Buenos Ayres the English are preferred; but
the heavy duty has brought out those of an inferior description. At
present, there are some good ones at ten or twelve dollars each, which
at that price meet with a ready sale. The French import a quantity of
hats; but the quality of them is much inferior to our's.
English manufactured goods are cheap; the market has been overstocked,
and, I fear, does not yield much profit to the adventurers. I have
bought English stockings cheaper than I could buy them in London,
leather gloves (a good pair) for a dollar. It is cheaper to purchase a
stock of linen here than at home. I have purchased good white cotton
neckcloths, after the rate of sixpence each. In summer, cotton shirting
is preferred.
English saddles and bridles are imported largely; we thus return them
their own hides, manufactured into choice and costly goods. Of the many
saddlers' shops, several are kept by Englishmen; as also watch-makers,
with loads of English watches.
All sorts of hardware, as knives and forks, and scissars, are imported
from England, and can be obtained at a cheap rate; also furniture, such
as tables, chairs, &c. Of the latter, the North Americans bring great
quantities.
India goods are sought after, particularly the China crape shawls.
Articles of stationery arrive from every quarter: Spanish writing-paper
from Gibraltar and the Mediterranean, and I think it of better quality
than ours, at least more pleasant to write upon.
Barbers' shops are in great abundance.
At the _pulperias_, or grog-shops, they sell almost every article of
life; they are, indeed, perfect chandlers' shops.
The pastrycooks neither cut a figure in their shops, nor in the articles
they sell; here are no hot buns or tarts on a morning, nor stale pastry
for the ragamuffin boys to purchase. Sweetmeats are the order of the
day.
A pastrycook's shop in the English style, I am confident, would
succeed--with the addition of hot rolls in the morning: none of those
luxuries are known here.
A good portrait-painter, I conceive, would meet with encouragement in
Buenos Ayres: at any rate they would have a fine field for study. An
English artist, named Hervé, practised some months: indisposition forced
him to leave.
It had occurred to me, that a pawnbroker would be a good business in
Buenos Ayres; but I find every shopkeeper, or monied person acts in that
capacity, and that respectable persons do not hesitate to send silver
spoons, matté-pots, and other valuables, to pledge from day to day--at
what interest (or if any) I know not, though I am apprehensive some of
them are guilty of what we should call usury. Poverty is a crime in
England; here they dread not exposure: but such is my delicacy in money
affairs, I should prefer being under an obligation to the gentlemen
with three balls, and to slide in at one of their secret doors, to the
publicity practised here.
An Englishman has lately undertaken a speculation which has cost him
a considerable sum, to have the exclusive privilege of taking cattle
in the Falkland islands--in fact, to be sole proprietor for a term
of years. He has forwarded to his new sovereignty a small colony of
settlers, servants, &c.; the chances of his success are very doubtful.
Buenos Ayres claims the jurisdiction of these islands, and those claims
will not cause such a dispute as in the year 1770. The voyage to them
from Buenos Ayres is made in about fourteen days.
* * * * *