the most burlesque sanctity. The style in which they cross themselves,
requires a rehearsal to understand it: they touch the cheeks, chin, and
bosom, quick, with the thumb, or, as a military man would denominate it,
"in double quick time."
A very pleasing practice exists, of giving flowers to visitors, as a
mark of respect: some fair lady hands a rose or tulip. I recollect, a
charming girl gave me a rose, a few days after my arrival, and my vanity
was not a little gratified by it; and I felt some mortification in
finding it was only the common civility of the place.
Smoking segars is a general practice--I might almost add, with men,
women, and children; the ladies of the better class always excepted,
though report says, they will, in secret, take the luxury of a segar. I
hope report has erred in this respect--indeed, I think it has; for such
an outrage against my English feelings, as a Buenos Ayrean lady smoking,
would abate much of the enthusiasm I feel for them. In the male sex I
like to see it; and the pleasure it seems to afford, has repeatedly made
me regret that I am no smoker. Here boys of eight, nine, and ten years
of age, may be seen smoking.
The English soon get into the fashion; and most of them are as fond of
the segar as the natives, who are smoking from the time they get up,
until they go to bed. If they ride on horseback, a segar is in their
mouths. Should they want a light in the streets, it is only to stop the
first person they meet smoking, to obtain one. I have often smiled to
see a first-rate Creolian dandy lighting his segar from that of some
dirty black fellow.
Havannah segars are the favourites; but they are dear, and not at all
times to be had in perfection. The paper ones, or segars de Hoja, made
from the tobacco-leaf, are mostly used, and by many preferred. The
manufacture of them affords employment to a great many people, including
females.
So refined are their ideas of politeness, that a person smoking
invariably takes the segar from his mouth, when passing another in the
street.
In another branch of politeness, Buenos Ayres is not outdone, even by
Paris itself; _viz._ the constant custom of taking off the hat, when
meeting each other in the street. The English mode of touching the hat
is too groom and footman-like, to be followed here: their's is taken
entirely from the head; and, when in compliment to ladies, they remain
uncovered until the objects of their politeness have passed. It is
managed gracefully--removing the hat from behind, similar to those
who are accustomed to wear wigs; it may be, to save the fronts from
dilapidation, which such continual calls on them would occasion.[16]
[16] I remember once meeting a Frenchman at Paris, whom I had known at
London in rather indifferent circumstances. He had obtained an office
in the palace of the Thuilleries; and, upon my congratulating him
thereon, he said, that it was all very well, except the d----d hat
business. On asking for an explanation, he stated, that, being a
public officer, he was obliged to take his hat off so often, that it
cost him £30 per annum for that single article.
The plant called _yerba_, the growth of Paraguay and the Brazils, is
the tea of Buenos Ayres. They drink it out of a small globe, to which
a tube is fixed, nearly as long as our tobacco-pipe; it is called the
matté-pot, and the beverage drawn from the yerba, is the _matté_. These
pots are generally of silver; and they hand them from one to the other,
in drinking--a practice not the most cleanly. When I first saw the tubes
in the ladies' mouths, I conceived they were smoking. Matté has not a
bad flavour, but nothing equal to tea. It is reported by some to be
pernicious to the teeth. In visiting parties it is always handed round.
It carries such an idea of the tobacco-pipe, that I do not much admire
seeing these matté-pots in the hands of ladies.
The general time of meals in Buenos Ayrean families is pretty nearly
as follows:--They have _matté_ the first thing, which they often take
in bed; at eight or nine, they have what we should call breakfast,
beef-steaks, &c.; dinner at two and three; _matté_ at six and seven,
followed often by a supper. The fashionable London hours of breakfasting
at one and two in the afternoon, and dining at eight and nine in the
evening, have not travelled to this quarter of the globe yet. They drink
wine out of tumbler glasses.
The _siesta_, or afternoon nap, is not so regularly taken as formerly:
they have got more into the habits of business, and cannot afford time
for sleeping in the day; and it does away with the remark, that, during
_siesta_ time, nobody is to be seen in the streets, but Englishmen and
dogs. The _siesta_ has its regular season; it is supposed to begin with
the summer season, in October, and end at the close of the summer, or
passion week. The plodding and industrious world cry out against this
practice, as encouraging sloth; but I think a nap after dinner, in warm
latitudes, both refreshing and conducive to health.
Houses are not provided with the convenience of bells: their servants
are summoned either by calling, or making a noise upon the tables. At
meals, the servants and slaves are in attendance at the table.
They retire to rest, in winter, at ten or eleven; in summer, later, as
at this season they enjoy the cool of the evening from the azoteas, or
from seats near the windows.
A walk in the streets on a fine summer's night is not uninteresting,
from the number of ladies walking and at the windows. Evening is the
time devoted by ladies to shopping. A night previous to a holiday or
Sunday, the shops are crowded.
In families of respectability, which have unmarried daughters, weekly
_tertulias_, or public dances, are often held during the winter, which,
they say, are for the purpose of shewing the young ladies off, and
getting them husbands: as I am not in the secret, I only give it as I
hear it.
These dances are got up at very little expence or preparation. One
of the ladies presides at the piano; the refreshments are cakes,
sweetmeats, and liqueurs: a few dollars provides for all; and I like
their plan--it looks more like a friendly entertainment. The sumptuous
repasts provided on such occasions in England, bespeak so much of
ceremony as considerably to mar the pleasure.
On birth-days, compliments are sent and received, with presents of
sweetmeats, &c. and dinners and tertulias are given. Those days are more
kept up than with us; but the itinerant musicians, about the doors, has
a little fallen off lately.
Sweetmeats are much eaten, and by the children in large quantities. In
coffee-houses they sprinkle the toast with sugar: an English child would
call them "sugar-babies." I am not dentist enough to decide whether
this is one of the causes of decayed teeth, so often observed in young
people, and the prevailing malady of the tooth-ache; but persons are
continually seen with their faces tied up for this complaint: it is,
indeed, a disease of the country. Bad teeth is a sad drawback, as they
are both "useful and ornamental;" and the purchase of new teeth and
gums, in Buenos Ayres, would be rather difficult: besides, all the world
must know about it. In London and Paris, such things pass as nothing.
When walking in public, the female rarely takes the arm of a gentleman,
except it be night. This seems to us an unsocial fashion. At dark,
however, the restriction ceases, and ladies will then honour us by
accepting our arm: with married persons this is more common. The
Englishman and his wife, in spite of Spanish modes, are seen trotting
comfortably along the Alameda, on a Sunday, arm-in-arm, as if at home.
Neither is it the fashion for gentlemen to escort the ladies, but to the
theatre, or public places: their visits and shopping are in company only
with their own sex. If a fair lady should wave this rule, and allow
us to proceed by their side for a few streets, it would be the height
of vulgarity to offer the arm. In England we have other notions of
gentility.
At the ball room, the females sit together, when not engaged in dancing.
During this pause, some gentleman will, with hesitating steps, approach
them, and solicit a lady to waltz, or dance a minuet with him.
The Spaniards pride themselves upon the delicacy and respect with which
they treat the females; and though there are many Spanish customs which
I think "more honoured in the breach than the observance," this is one,
I trust, will last for ever.
The Buenos Ayreans are passionately fond of dancing. Their evening hours
are given to this pastime: in their houses, daughters, mothers, nay,
grandmothers, will enjoy it with all the spirit of youth. To me it is
the most gratifying sight--a proof that age is not always accompanied by
moroseness. I have been delighted to see father, mother, daughters, and
sons, dancing with that apparent happiness, as if life had no other
object but enjoyment.
Walking in the environs of the town, one evening, a family dance
attracted my attention; and I looked through the windows. The ladies saw
me, and the master of the house came out, entreating me to enter, with
the Spanish compliment, "that his house and family were entirely at my
service." He seemed disappointed at my declining the invitation. These
evening family dances are very fascinating.
It is said, a Frenchman, from his gaiety, never gets old; the
observation applies with equal truth to this people. In our peculiar
England, education, climate, and the state of society, render its
inhabitants more thoughtful and care-worn: we regard as frivolity what
other nations consider the essentials of existence; yet, in general, we
are not the gloomy people foreigners would paint us. We can love, and
hate, too, with all or more of the fervour ascribed to warmer climes.
Of the dances, some are pretty. The steps of the Spanish dances have a
great sameness. The ladies appear graceful; but, indeed, when is it they
do not?
The _cielito_, or little heaven, is opened by the parties chaunting a
part of a song all the time in movement, and smacking their fingers
together; it then proceeds to the figure.
The _contre-danse_ is involved in intricacies and positions rather
difficult to a stranger; twisting the arms, and running in and out,
like the game of Thread-my-needle, or, excepting the tumbling part, the
comic dance in Mother Goose. The English contre-danse has more life and
variety both in music and figure.
Waltzing is a favourite: they have not read the lectures of our
moralists upon it, but indulge in the mazes of this luxurious dance.
The minuet dance here is, I think, tame and ungraceful.
The piano forte is the favourite musical instrument; and every
well-educated young lady is supposed to possess some knowledge of it.
I have heard them perform with great taste and skill. The young and
interesting daughter of Don Cornelius Saavedra, Doña Dominga, I thought,
excelled; and, with instruction, would be a proficient. This young lady,
with a countenance just "budding into beauty," has talents, which, if
properly cultivated, will adorn society. Her father, Don Cornelius, was
the first Director of the Province after the Revolution, and one of the
old and respectable families. His manners are very pleasing: in person,
he much resembles a British general officer. Like many others, he has
forsaken the sword for the ploughshare, and resides upon his estate,
ninety miles from town, on the banks of the Parana.
A good piano will sell for 1000 dollars: the English, in this likewise,
take the lead, and those of Clementi, Stodart, &c. are found in many
houses; Miss Saavedra has a fine-toned one of Clementi's. The French and
German pianos do not readily sell.
Male teachers of music (and, on mentioning these, the remark of
Anastasius occurs to me) find good employment in this city, where all
are so musical. An English lady, Miss Robinson, gives lessons on this
heavenly science.
The Consulado musical school-rooms, with the young ladies warbling
there on a morning, repeatedly attract the attention of the passing
pedestrian. At one o'clock, attended by their mammas and slaves, with
music-book under arm, those little syrens trudge home. On one or two
occasions, there has been a public trial of musical skill, a sort of
show-off before their relations and friends.
A musical subscription society, called The Philharmonics, has been
established, and the most respectable natives and foreigners are
subscribers. The vocal and instrumental performers from the theatre
attend there. It is a superior affair, and held in a spacious sala of
what was formerly a prison--the "Coona:" Orpheus has driven away the
ministers of justice.
Using an English phrase, the mothers of Buenos Ayres keep "a sharp
look-out" after their daughters, attending them to public places, and in
the streets. Should the mother, by any chance, be absent, the care is
probably delegated to a slave or servant, who may have their secret
orders whispered to them, as well as other trusty centinels. But cannot
the slave be bribed? If report speaks true, they are so; and the ardent
lover has been ready to embrace the black messenger that has conveyed to
him tidings from a beloved mistress.
Young ladies before marriage are, by some mothers, watched with great
strictness, not unlike austerity. I fear, females here, as well as in
other countries, have often given their hands without their hearts.
"Why did you marry?" said a friend of mine to a lady who seemed unhappy.
"To gain my liberty," she eagerly exclaimed, "as many others have done
before me."
Marriage with the Buenos Ayres female takes place at an early age,
frequently at thirteen and fourteen. Certain it is, they ripen into
womanhood much sooner than those of our clime; and their beauties more
quickly fade. An English female at forty looks as young as a Buenos
Ayrean at thirty. How many charming and attractive women we find in
England at the age of forty; and though I cannot quite agree with our
gracious sovereign in his admiration of "fair, fat, and forty,"
yet I have known, at home, some ladies at that age with charms and
acquirements sufficient to alarm a sensitive heart. In Buenos Ayres
I have likewise seen females whose beauty seems to improve as years
advance; but this is a rare occurrence.
In marriage, the custom of all the family living together seems strange
to English ideas, and we cannot help picturing petty jealousies and
quarrels amongst such a groupe. Custom, however, and their natural
happy temper, free from the corroding cares of more populous countries,
prevent these. I cannot help admiring their happiness in this respect,
and I trust they may long enjoy it. I know the misery I should feel,
were I a father, to see a beloved child depart for ever from the
parental roof.
Married females still preserve their maiden name, conjoined with that of
their husband's. The children by such marriage bear the surname of the
father. The saint's-day on which they may be born provides them with a
Christian name; and, as the Romish church has a saint for every day in
the calendar, the difficulties that the Rev. Mr. Shandy had to encounter
are avoided.
In the lottery of names, people of all classes take their chance. It is
rather droll to hear the black girls addressing each other by the names
of Eugenia, Marcela, Florencia, &c. Some fair ladies bear the pretty
romantic names of Rosaria, Irené, Magdalena, Victoria, Martina,
Fortunata, Celestina, Adriana, &c. whilst others, not so fortunate in
their time of coming into the world, are obliged to be content with the
ordinary ones of Juana, Tomasa, &c. But what is there in a name? a rose
would smell as sweet under any other name.
John is unquestionably the most vulgar of all names; it is worse
than Tom: every body applies it, when unacquainted with one's real
appellation. In Buenos Ayres, a stranger is addressed as "Don Juan." The
Toms and Jacks of the Spanish vocabulary are softened down into Tomas
and Juan.
The Spanish custom, when speaking or writing to an individual, of using
the Christian name instead of the surname, is very pleasing; and as I
am a great lover of the romantic, it will necessarily follow, that I am
more charmed with Don Carlos, Don Henrico, Don Guillermo, &c. than plain
Mr. Smith, Mr. Wilkins, and Mr. Tomkins; and Doña Clara, Doña Dominga,
and Doña Saturnina, than Miss Williams, Miss White, and Miss Brown.
Respectable families think it no disgrace to let lodgings, take in
washing, make and mend clothes and linen: these occupations are not
looked upon as belonging to the inferior orders, as with us. Their
slaves perform the laborious part.[17] I was not a little surprised,
when I first arrived, to have an application from the wife of an Alcalde
to perform any jobs in needle-work that I might have. I concluded the
lady meant to jest. The wife of an Alcalde, a sitting magistrate, to
take in needle-work! thought I. What would the Sir Richard Birnies and
the other sages of Bow-street, Marlborough-street, &c. say to this?
[17] The washerwomen of Buenos Ayres present a singular spectacle to a
stranger. They pursue their avocation on the beach; and this soap-sud
army extends for nearly two miles: all the washing of the town is
performed there, by black women-slaves, and servants. At a distance
upon the water, it looks like surf breaking upon the shore. They wash
well, extending the linen upon the ground to dry. Robberies amongst
them are punished by ducking. A wedding, or other joyous ceremony,
is celebrated with African magnificence: a canopy is formed from the
linen, and the heroine of the day placed under it; red handkerchiefs
for flags are carried upon sticks, with saucepans, drums, &c. They
dance pas-seuls, after the mode of Guinea and Mosambique, I presume.
The music consists of singing and clapping of hands; thunders of
applause follow--Parisot and Angiolini never received more; a general
shout ends the entertainments. Their adherence to African customs is
a peculiar trait. At the approach of rain, confusion seems at its
height, and "chaos come again;" the ladies hurrying in all directions,
to save their linen from "the pitiless storm."
Washing is dear--four to ten dollars per month, according to the clothes
washed.
Slavery has been abolished here, since the year 1810: those born prior
to that time, remain slaves.[18] The humanity of the Spaniards to their
slaves, compared with other nations, is well known: in Buenos Ayres they
are treated with great kindness. The female slaves are often placed more
on the footing of friends, than either slaves or servants. They attend
their ladies when visiting, seating themselves on the ground in the
room in which their mistress may be, and witnessing the dances that
continually take place amongst the members of families. These slave
girls, in consequence, become quite knowing and accomplished, in
their way; and, from being so much in the fashionable world, imitate
their superiors. I have observed them dance the minuet, and Spanish
_contre-danse_, with great elegance. The men slaves, when deserving,
are treated with equal kindness: it does honour to the humane hearts of
their employers; and I almost adore them for it. In other countries,
it has been my lot to see those unfortunate people treated with
barbarity--even by my own countrymen. No ill effects in the end can
possibly result from kind behaviour to the slaves: in Buenos Ayres,
they appear affectionate, happy, and grateful. Of course, discontented
spirits are to be found; but I speak in a general sense. Of an evening
(though I believe it is not a constant rule), I have seen female slaves
seated in the same chamber with their mistress and family, at
needle-work.
[18] I heard a slave boy once complaining, that he was a most
unfortunate fellow, in having been born only one day before the decree
passed for the abolition of slavery: "Could I have remained unborn,"
said he, "only one day longer, I should have been a happy boy, and no
slave."
Slaves can demand their paper, that is, the deed which binds them, and
seek other employers; and, for cruelty, can allege a complaint with the
_alcalde_. For serious misbehaviour, a proprietor can have them punished
by flogging, &c. There are other chastisements for females.
The men slaves are not numerous; a great portion of them having enlisted
as soldiers.
The English prefer having servants, to slaves, in their houses, and have
purchased but few. Those black gentlemen, in the employ of Englishmen,
have picked up a little of our language, which they are proud of
displaying.
A great many North-American black men are about the town, and on the
beach; crowding the _pulperias_.
The negroes have great confidence in the effect of charms for different
diseases: they stick a small bean-shell to the forehead for the
headache; another for the tooth-ache, &c. They wear, likewise, round the
neck, a cross, with a piece of leather in the shape of a small morocco
purse, like those sold in London: this is a religious badge.
The excellent and orderly conduct observed by the lower order of people
in the streets, compared with other countries, is very remarkable: no
obscene insulting jests meet the ear; and persons may accompany modest
females in the street, without dread of molestation from the groups of
all descriptions strolling about, who evince towards the stranger every
respect: we cannot but esteem them, for thus contributing to render a
foreigner's abode in this city so free from apprehension.
The riotous noise of the English lower orders is by some called one of
the evils of liberty, and I could not consent to curtail that liberty
even to purchase civility from them. I should, however, be glad if they
would condescend to copy, in some degree, Buenos Ayrean manners. I do
not wish them to be servile--good manners is not servility; but to
moderate that effusion of liberty, descending sometimes to ferocity.
Drunkenness is not a vice of this country; the rabble of blacks and
porters are at times so. The mechanic employs his spare hours with
the guitar: on a summer's night, the doors and windows are open, when
they are to be seen singing, and dancing, and smoking the segar. My
countrymen of the same grade, at home, prefer the comforts of society
in a public house, where they can, over their grog and song, damn the
ministers and taxes, swearing that they are true-born Britons, back and
bone.
From the orderly conduct observed in the streets of Buenos Ayres,
a stranger would suppose it a most moral city; we have no drunken
disorderly females, creating abhorrence and disgust. Intrigue is common
enough, but then it is modestly managed: besides, a lady's frailty is
not considered an offence so heinous as in our scrupulous England; more
compassion exists for the lovely sinners. Here are no crim. con. actions
to amuse some amorous judge and counsel, and inflame the passions.
This country has its portion of beggars, who are, at times, very
annoying, besieging the court-yards, &c. The best way to get rid of
them is to exclaim "_Perdone por Dios!_" (pardon for God's sake). This
expression, singular as it may appear, seldom fails in its effect; but
"_Perdone por Dios!_" would have but little chance amongst the sturdy
beggars of Europe.
The operation of lousing, so common in old Spain, is followed here, in
a degree, amongst a particular class. It is a most unseemly sight, for
female fingers to perform the office of combs.
A great aversion used to exist to reside in a house in which a person
had died of a fever, until it was thoroughly cleaned.
A savings bank has been established, upon the English plan; I doubt
if it will suit the meridian of Buenos Ayres: they are too careless
of to-morrow. If beef was one real per pound, their ideas would be
different; the labourer would be more industrious, and not refuse to
work on a rainy day, which is the case now. A tolerable sum has been
collected for the savings bank.
A propensity to gaming exists with the Buenos Ayreans; I mean with the
male part. The vices of London's fashionable dames, in this respect, are
not followed by the fair that inhabit the banks of La Plata.