accounts, they do not repent having done so. The worst of it is, in
marrying into Spanish families, one may be said to marry all the family,
for they expect to reside under the same roof. The English resist this,
and with success: the good sense of their wives will make them conform
to our ideas; yet the parting of a beloved daughter from the paternal
roof must be a painful task for parents, whose only consolation is in
yielding her to the arms of the man she loves.
Englishmen married to Spanish females have been, in a degree, obliged to
conform to the Catholic ceremonies of marriage. The over-scrupulous will
start at this; but, if they have ever been in love, they will readily
conceive that these oaths of form may be swallowed with as much ease as
many of the absurd ones of our Custom-House. The difference of religion,
in liberal minds, cannot in any way disturb domestic harmony: we differ
only in forms.
So great were religious prejudices not many years ago, that a lady would
have hesitated, and her family interfered to prevent a marriage with one
of "heretic creed." The alteration is a credit to their understandings;
it evinces that they are neither bigots nor fanatics. A generation of
children are now springing up, half English, half Creolian, speaking
both languages; their fathers teaching them English, their mothers
Spanish. Could we look a few years forward, and see these youngsters
grown to maturity, loving the land of their birth, and having a yearning
towards that of their fathers, what important consequences may not
result, in cementing friendships between nations that once regarded each
other with a rooted dislike.
Englishmen who have married in this country, I should presume, intend
making it their adopted land. It is an alternative that would cause
me to pause: I could not consent to lose the hope of again seeing my
paternal home. Now, if I could fancy such an event, as taking my Buenos
Ayrean wife with me to London, lodging her in some fashionable mansion
near Grosvenor Square, or in the Square itself--visiting the Opera and
all the Theatres--pointing out to her Rossini, Catalani, our Braham,
Stephens, Kean, and Macready, and explaining their different talents,
poor Rosquellas, and the Señoras Tani, would be quite forgotten; and,
instead of a ride on the Barracca Road, or to San José de Flores, San
Isidro, &c. conducting her along the Queen's Road to Putney, Richmond,
or Windsor--taking a stroll with her in Kensington Gardens--Heavens!
whither will my imagination lead me? and why cannot I persuade some
kind-hearted Creolian to give me his daughter, and two hundred thousand
dollars, in return for the fond love I should lavish on her?
The marriages of English people have been performed by captains of
vessels of war, or in the presence of two or three merchants, whose
signatures are said to be sufficient acts of parliament. The residence
of a consul will obviate some of these difficulties.
The British community, in Buenos Ayres, lost one of its chief ornaments,
by a melancholy suicide, which took place in December, 1824--that of
Mr. Dallas, who cut his throat with a razor: disappointment in business
is stated to be the cause. He has not left his equal in Buenos Ayres;
his character fully warranted that expressive term in the English
language--a perfect gentleman.
The death of Mr. Rowcroft, in Peru, caused infinite regret amongst
the British in Buenos Ayres, by whom he was much respected. He was,
probably, the first alderman of the city of London that ever crossed the
Andes. It was hard to meet his death by the bullets of foreign soldiery.
It is some consolation, that accident alone caused the fatal affair. It
is said, that he was taken for a Spanish officer, Mr. R. being clothed
in his uniform as Colonel of the City Light Horse, a dress he appeared
particularly proud of.
A son of Sir Robert Wilson arrived here, and went to Peru; but he soon
returned, and went to the Brazils, in order to join his father's friend,
Lord Cochrane.
Amongst my countrymen in this city, may be found some very eccentric
characters, who would be accounted originals even at home.
Who has visited Buenos Ayres without having heard of the noisy drunken
Englishman, Jack Hall, the Caleb Quotem of the town, and who, in
appearance and dress, looked as if he had just escaped from Newgate.
Poor Jack died in July, 1824, and was carried to the grave in his own
cart, which had, for a series of years, borne so many of his countrymen
to their last abode, and on that account was called "the English
hearse." Hall was a Jack of all trades, painter, glazier, whitewasher,
&c. &c. The Spaniards, when he first arrived amongst them, viewed him as
a prodigy.
Irishmen naturalized into American citizens, or what are called "Irish
Yankies," from time to time pass through Buenos Ayres, on their route to
different parts: I have known several. It is heart-rending to think,
that political events should thus have estranged men from their native
country, and made them its bitterest enemies. It is true, they "rail
against a rock they cannot pull down." If an excuse can be found for
them, it is that the hopes of their youth have been blighted, and that
oppression has made them aliens to their native land. North Americans
remark, that those who abuse Great Britain most in the United States
are our own countrymen. I believe it; and in the falsification of their
long-told predictions of England's downfall, there is a wider field
opened for their hate, and to brood upon what is to happen to ill-fated
England.
As regards some Irishmen whom I have known (or, if it must be so, "Irish
Yankies"), I sincerely regret that I cannot embrace them, take them by
the hand, and call them countrymen. I have noticed them to be men of
warm imaginations; and when listening to any detail of Irish intrepidity
in the French war--and where is it that Irish blood has not flowed in
torrents for the cause of Great Britain?--their hearts appeared elated,
and they knew every Irish officer who had distinguished himself; they
spoke of his deeds with rapture, and, for the moment, assumed their
natural character of British subjects;--for, say what they will, a man
feels little enthusiasm in the glories of any nation but his own. I
congratulated one upon the change in his ideas:--he started; "No," said
he, "I regret not the past; I am, and ever will remain, an American
citizen."
* * * * *
There are three NORTH-AMERICAN mercantile houses--Mr. Ford; Zimmerman
and Co.; and Stewart and M'Call. The residents are few, excepting
the casual visitors. I find a difficulty in distinguishing them
from Englishmen, though a Creole friend of mine pretended to do it,
describing the Americans as generally wearing white hats, spectacles,
and carrying a stick. This observation I afterwards found tolerably
correct. We laugh at their phrases--"I guess,"--"I calculate,"--"I
expect," &c.; and they retort upon our continual use of "You know,"
in conversation. It will be well for the two nations, if their future
differences consist only in laughing at each other's peculiarities of
speech.
The North Americans carry on a considerable trade in this river, and
have brought some valuable cargoes from China and India. Flour, lumber,
a few dry goods, soap, &c. are their general import; salt vessels also
arrive from the Cape de Verd, which article is at times very profitable.
Now and then the domestic manufactures of North America are brought to
this market; but the profit of them, if any, must be very small. The
immense capital, machinery, and talent of England, must for a long time
give her the advantage over every other nation; and as regards North
America, I should not suppose it would answer her purpose to divert
her population from the health-inspiring pursuits of agriculture to a
pernicious manufacture. Their chief commerce is in flour; and owing
to one or two bad harvests in this province, the advantages have been
great. It has been sold at thirty dollars per barrel; the cost in North
America being only seven or eight. During the year 1823, upwards of
70,000 barrels of flour was thus imported into Buenos Ayres. For a
country so luxuriant in soil to be dependent upon foreigners for bread,
appears strange; but agriculture is yet young in South America.
The North-American trade is mostly carried on in ships with supercargoes:
the captains are a superior set of men. But few English ships arrive;
they are nearly all brigs, commanded by our roughest seamen: but these
brigs often contain valuable cargoes. The Americans manage to run about
the world with small cargoes. A number of their vessels come here for
the purpose of being sold and broken up; which seems to be a good
speculation, if we may judge from the number hauled upon the beach for
that purpose: those ships that cut such a dashing figure at first sight,
have only "a goodly outside, but are rotten within."
The circumstance of North America having been the first to acknowledge
the independence of this province has not insured to her any particular
commercial privileges. In a coffee-house, one evening, I witnessed a
serious debate amongst some Creolians; one of them, in the heat of
argument, asserted that the acknowledgment by North America was of no
more consequence to the state, than if the province of Santa Fé had done
so. The acknowledgment by Spain and England is what materially interests
them: North America, however, has decidedly paved the way for this.
Although there are a great many North-American mechanics, yet we find
very few of them have shops of their own in Buenos Ayres. In the
manufacture of boots, shoes, hats, &c. as well as dry goods, they must
yield the palm to us. In the stores, a preference is given to English
hams, cheeses, &c.; but I have tasted American articles of this
description, of good quality. The Americans, aware of the partiality,
pass off many of their goods as English; and I have purchased American
soap with the British crown impressed upon it.
Perhaps in no part of the world has such a marked distance been kept
between Americans and Englishmen as in Buenos Ayres; but this, I rejoice
to observe, is subsiding. Both parties are to blame. The English are
said to be the most conceited nation on earth; it may be true, but our
North-American friends have a touch of that quality likewise. When told
of this; their reply, that "their vices they inherit from us; their
virtues are peculiarly their own."
Mr. Rodney, the minister from North America, departed this life on the
10th of June, 1824. His death was sudden, from an attack of apoplexy.
The evening previous to his decease, he had a large assemblage of
visitors at his house. He was a plain republican of the old school, and
much esteemed by all parties: he has left a large family. The government
of Buenos Ayres evinced the most marked respect to his memory.[12]
Colonel Forbes is the Secretary of Legation: he has been in Buenos Ayres
since October, 1820, and acted as agent to the United States till the
arrival of Mr. Rodney.
[12] The following are extracts from the decrees issued by the
government on the occasion:--
"A sepulchral monument, at the expense of the government, shall be
raised over the remains of the Honourable Cæsar Augustus Rodney, as a
memorial of gratitude.
"In the funeral rites to be observed towards so distinguished a
citizen, the following orders shall be executed. A Battalion of
Infantry, with four pieces of Light Artillery, shall be stationed at
the place where the body is to be buried. As the corpse leaves the
house of his decease, the fort shall fire a national salute. Another
similar salute shall be executed by the Light Artillery, on the entry
of the corpse into the cemetery. On putting it into the grave, the
battalion being formed, shall fire a general discharge.
"The general staff of the army, and the chiefs of all the departments,
shall be invited to meet at the house of the government, to accompany
the ministers during the said funeral rites."
The funeral was the grandest thing of the sort ever seen in this
country. A great concourse of people of all nations attended, on
horse and foot; not the least remarkable of whom were the Catholic
clergymen. In the detail published of the ceremonies, we read the
following observations:--
"In addition to the civil authorities who attended, it was peculiarly
pleasing to all the Protestants, to observe the public respect shewn
by the attendance of the head of the church, and many of the most
distinguished Catholic clergymen, the Rector of the University,
&c.; proclaiming, in the most unequivocal manner, the increasing
liberality of this Catholic people. They had, before, kindly granted
the Protestants the privilege of a burial-ground; and on this
occasion they attended, with the greatest respect, to all the
exercises of the funeral, and mingled their sympathies with our's.
Their high-minded example in this instance is at once indicative
of the elevation and nobleness of their character, and worthy the
imitation of Christians of every name and country."
Mr. Rivadavia made an oration over the grave; the concluding words
ran thus:--
"Illustrious soul of Cæsar Augustus Rodney! return to the bosom
of thy Creator, with the elevation and confidence to which you
are entitled. Being his image here on earth, separate not thy
compassionate regard from this country, which is so highly honoured
in preserving your remains. Yes, we will preserve them, as the most
precious treasure that this soil can receive." [_Taking some earth in
his hand._] "And thou earth! that art going to cover these venerable
remains, receive also the honour of being mingled with the most
fruitful seeds of virtue, and cause it to produce similar heroes,
that may immortalize the American name."
* * * * *
The FRENCH are numerous in Buenos Ayres; report says, they are equal in
number to the British, but I do not believe it. Their trade here, what
there is of it, must be advantageous: they bring every requisite for the
ladies' toilet; fans, silk stockings, perfumery, scented waters, gloves,
jewellery, and those nic-nacs in which the French so much excel. Some
shops make a great figure in French goods, as silks, shawls, and every
essential to gratify female taste. Roquin, Meyer, & Co. is the chief
mercantile French house; but there are numbers of Buenos Ayrean and
other firms, that import largely from France, as do also some English
houses.
There are many gentlemanly and intelligent men amongst the French
settled in Buenos Ayres; but the mass will not bear a comparison with
the British in point of respectability. Frenchmen themselves allow this,
and laugh at the billiard-markers and waiters of Parisian growth. The
superior class are to be found in the best societies of the city. Their
lively manners and conversation have ever been a contrast to the reserve
of the English; and, as companions, they may be more sought after than
my modest countrymen: a Frenchman is at home in all countries.
The English likewise visit the first families, and give at times
splendid entertainments, or _tertulias_; yet, I have fancied, they
appear more happy when amongst themselves. Their behaviour has been
attributed to pride and many other causes: the French term "_mauvaise
honte_," affords a better solution. Notwithstanding these drawbacks, I
am convinced, the British character is esteemed; and, however the French
may beat us in companionship, they cannot deprive us of that esteem.
The news of Napoleon's death caused great tribulation in French society
at Buenos Ayres. It was some time ere they would believe it; it must be
a trick, they said, of the English; and until the causes of his death
became so well authenticated, expressions of foul play were more than
whispered. Their love for this "man of blood" has ceased to astonish
me: were I a Frenchman, it is probable I should love him too.[13] On
Bonaparte's birth-day, in 1821, I observed the tri-coloured flag, waving
from a French _pulperia_ near the beach. This flag, once so formidable,
and which made every Briton prepare for "bloody fight," now floats
harmlessly in Buenos Ayres, being used as a signal for merchant vessels.
[13] A translation of O'Meara's work, in French, has appeared in
Buenos Ayres, with the consequent conclusion, that Sir Hudson Lowe
must be a perfect brute. In Spanish, we have one or two diatribes
against the British government, and their tyranny exercised on the
seas; but the malignity so apparent in the observations destroys their
effect.
* * * * *
A great many PORTUGUESE are residents of Buenos Ayres, as merchants,
shopkeepers, &c.; they carry on a constant commerce with the Brazils.
The jealousy, bordering upon contempt, in which the Spaniards affect
to hold the Portuguese, is very conspicuous here. At the theatre,
when a Portuguese character is represented, the performer is arrayed
fantastically, strutting about the stage with self-assumed importance,
amidst vehement laughter and applause, as fervent and more boisterous
than that bestowed upon Sheridan's "little cunning Portuguese," Isaac
Mendoza.
* * * * *
GERMANS, ITALIANS, and, indeed, the natives of all countries, are to be
met with in Buenos Ayres, as merchants, store and shopkeepers, &c.
Mr. Schmaling, agent to the PRUSSIAN _Linen Company_, has lately
established an extensive mercantile house in Buenos Ayres. The Prussian
cloths and flannels have been bought with much avidity, a preference
being given to them from their being cheaper, and some say better than
our's. Mr. S. sold his cloths 20 per cent. cheaper than the English
could afford to sell. It is hard to be undersold in a foreign market, in
what was once considered our staple commodity. British skill, however, I
have no doubt, will surmount this temporary advantage: the repeal of the
wool tax may be one step towards it.
* * * * *
PERSONS, DISPOSITIONS, and MANNERS of the NATIVE or SPANISH
INHABITANTS.--It might be supposed, from the latitude in which Buenos
Ayres is situated, that the faces and general appearance of the natives
would partake of a dusky hue: as regards the male sex, this is certainly
the case, though here and there the reverse is seen. Of the females,
however, many can boast a countenance of roses and lilies, equal to
those of a colder climate. Amongst the mulatto cast, there are some
pretty girls. I have noticed that some distinctions are kept up,
the word _mulatto_ being often used as a term of reproach: this is
illiberal. One or two families of red-haired children are rather
remarkable in a country where the darker hue predominates. I really
thought they were of Scotch extraction, till I was informed to the
contrary. Some scandalous wits have dared to be jocular on the occasion,
asserting that they must be the offspring of Beresford's Scotch
regiment, the 71st, who were here in 1806.
It is rarely we see, in Buenos Ayres, a person marked with the small
pox, vaccination being generally practised;[14] and very few deformed
people. Indeed, the generality of them may be called handsome. The young
men are well grown, possess good figures, and their manners render them
truly agreeable.
[14] Foreign nations duly appreciate this invaluable discovery. In
England alone, the birth-place of its immortal author, a portion (I
believe, a very small one) still persist in denying its efficacy: "A
prophet is no prophet in his own country."
Faces may be seen here, of female beauty, worthy a painter's study;--the
intelligent dark eye, polished forehead, and persons moulded by grace
itself. England is called the land of beauty, and it deserves its name;
but beauty is not peculiar to England alone. Buenos Ayres contains
within its walls as much loveliness as imagination can dream of.[15]
[15] Conspicuous amongst the fair-haired beauties of Buenos Ayres, is
the Senorita Dona Segunda Iglesia. This young lady (and she is not yet
sixteen) is a perfect Hebe. Dona Isaaca, her sister, two years younger
than herself, forms a charming counterpart of the fair Segunda.
Another accomplished and elegant girl, whom we Englishmen have named
the Marchioness (from her likeness in face to the Marchioness of
Hertford), attracts much admiration. She is an enthusiast in music:
at the theatre, when the orchestra performs any of her favourite
airs, her animated countenance evinces the emotion which this divine
science inspires.
The stately elegance of walk, for which the Spanish ladies are so
remarkable, is in no place more conspicuous than in Buenos Ayres; and it
is not confined to the upper class--females of all descriptions possess
it; one must therefore conclude it to be an acquired accomplishment. If
my fair countrywomen would deign to imitate them in this respect, and
get rid of that ungraceful postman-like pace they now have, I should
love them all the better.
The inhabitants possess a happy medium between French vivacity and
English reserve. An Englishman feels at home with them; for should he be
deficient in the language, he need not fear that his blunders will be
laughed at. In sickness, they are proverbial for their kind attention,
as many of my countrymen have experienced, preparing every little
delicacy they think will please. It is only to know these people, to
esteem them.
Their happy disposition, and having so few real cares, protect them
from suicide, that calamity which afflicts populous Europe. The future
provision for a family, indeed, scarcely enters their thoughts, in a
country where "a fathom of beef can be purchased for sixpence." This
expression was used by an English "beach-ranger," when trying to prevail
upon some of a Falmouth packet's crew to desert.
Although there may be families who, in the common acceptation of
the term, are well off, yet I do not think there are many who are
extraordinarily rich, that is to say, worth from 30 to £50,000 sterling.
Houses, cattle, and land constitute the best property.
The enthusiasm with which the Spaniards regard the female sex, like most
other things, has, doubtless, been exaggerated. In Buenos Ayres, if they
have not exactly caught this enthusiasm, they have done better: their
attentions are founded on real respect to the virtues of the sex, and
are therefore more likely to last.
The character given to Spaniards of all descriptions for jealousy of
their females, must have been either fabulous, or a great change has
taken place; for nothing approaching to it can be observed in their
descendants here. The gentlemen conduct themselves with the most marked
politeness towards the females, paying them the greatest attention and
respect. I have heard it asserted, that they make negligent husbands. In
every populous city, no doubt, many of this class are to be found; but
those Buenos Ayrean husbands, whom I have the pleasure of knowing, seem
devotedly attached to their wives, behaving with a tenderness not every
day found even in England, that land of domestic felicity.
The ladies appear equal in affection; and are kind and tender mothers.
It is pleasing to see the care and fondness they bestow on their
children. A stranger need not be a day in Buenos Ayres without
discovering this; and such traits speak volumes. They do not follow the
unmotherly practice of putting their infants out to nurse, thinking it
no disgrace to suckle their own offspring. In my opinion, there is as
fair a proportion of married happiness in this city, as can be found in
those that bear a name of being more domesticated.
The compliments of salutation are much the name as in England with the
gentlemen, _viz._ the good old hearty shake of the hand. The French
embrace of the males, kissing each other, is not followed; for which I
am better pleased. Much as I esteem my friends of Buenos Ayres, I wish
no other than female lips to touch my cheek. The salutation of the
females, on bidding adieu for long journeys, or on returning from one,
is kissing and embracing each other: in this respect they differ but
little from British females--perhaps a little more fervent. I have seen
ladies, when returned from a voyage to Monte Video, hug their old black
servant, who has come to meet them on the beach, with all the ardour of
affection, so different from our notions of propriety.