commerce of the country is chiefly in their hands; and, taking the
clerks, servants, and others employed in their barraccas, or hide
warehouses, as well as in their houses, the numbers are very imposing.
Most houses have a Spanish clerk, who (as well as his English brethren)
generally boards and lodges in the house.
The following is a list of the British mercantile establishments at
present existing in Buenos Ayres:--
Messrs. Brown, Buchanan, and Co. Agents for Lloyd's.
Dickson, Montgomery, & Co.
M'Crackan and Jamieson.
Miller, Eyes, and Co.
Miller, Robinson, & Co.
Winter, Britain, & Co.
Plowes, Noble, & Co.
Duguid and M'Kerrell.
Bertram, Armstrong, & Co.
Heyworth and Carlisle.
William P. Robertson & Co.
Anderson, Weir, & Co.
Tayleure, Cartwright, & Co.
William Hardesty & Co.
Joseph and Joshua Thwaites.
John Gibson & Co.
Hugh Dallas & Co.
Peter Sheridan.
John Appleyard.
Messrs. John Bailey.
C. S. Harvey.
Thomas Eastman.
Thomas Fair.
Thomas Nelson.
Green and Hodgson.
Richard and William Orr.
Jump and Priestley.
Stewart and M'Call.
John Ludlam.
James G. Helsby.
Henry Hesse.
John M'Dougall & Co.
John Harratt & Co.
R. B. Niblett.
Daniel Mackinlay.
Thomas Barton.
George Macfarlane.
Stephen Puddicomb.
Robert Utting.
Most of the above houses have their corresponding firms at Rio Janeiro,
Monte Video, Chili, and Peru, forming an immense link, of no mean
importance, to the trade of Great Britain.
Our merchants, in Buenos Ayres, are not only land and stock-holders;
but, since the establishment of the Bank, they have become Bank
Directors. In thus identifying themselves with the country, I am
persuaded, they will not forfeit one iota of their independence.
In 1821, the British merchants in Buenos Ayres advanced to the Buenos
Ayrean government a sum of money, by way of loan, which was punctually
repaid, contrary to the expectations of many; for as this money was lent
only a few months after a revolution, when Ramirez and Carrera were in
the field, threatening the province, its return was problematical.
The majority of the British merchants are natives of Scotland,
proverbial for their talent and activity in trade. Without being
accused of undue partiality, I may safely assert, that our merchants do
honour to the country in which they are domiciled. Quoting the language
of Don Valentin Gomez, at the King's birth-day dinner, of April 23,
1823, "The English citizens have shewn themselves worthy of the
distinguished character they have acquired. In Buenos Ayres, they have
always been good fathers of families, and good guests. The province owes
them every protection."
The clerks in the mercantile houses are kept pretty closely to business,
from eight in the morning till near the same hour at night, holidays
excepted, which is fagging work.
Besides the merchants, there are a host of English shopkeepers. The
street of La Piedad is full of them; and they retail almost every
article that can be mentioned. In all parts of the city, the eye
continually meets with English, and their inscriptions in front of the
shops; as, _Zapatero Ingles_ (English Shoemaker), _Sastre_ (Tailor),
_Carpenteria_ (Carpenter), _Roloxero_ (Watchmaker), &c. &c.; and
the quantity of British subjects dispersed all over the country, as
collectors of hides, agriculturists, &c. is more than would be believed.
A trifling jealousy is, at times, to be observed amongst the natives,
at the numbers of the English resident here; the former supposing that
we have a monopoly of business, and drain the country of money. These
false reasoners in political economy cannot comprehend that, in trade,
obligations are mutual, and that for our goods we buy their produce,
often at a ruinous price. All increase of population to a new and
thinly-peopled country, like Buenos Ayres, just released from a
disgraceful thraldrom, ought to be viewed as a benefit: the well
informed know it to be so.
The British medical practitioners at Buenos Ayres are--Drs. Leper,
Dick, Oughan,[8] Jenkinson, and Whitfield: the two last are
apothecaries. Drs. Leper and Dick are surgeons in his majesty's navy,
and are allowed to be men of talent, and have good practice.
[8] Dr. Oughan has returned to England, in the _Kingfisher_ packet:
some eccentricities in the doctor's conduct occasioned the British
consul to make application for his being sent home.
A physician here is not so profitable a concern as in England: the
guinea fee dwindles to a dollar per visit, though to a favourite doctor
they make presents. Once, in London, I remember seeing thirty single
guineas, for as many visits, lying upon a doctor's table, the result
of a morning's work; and this was thought but little, to pay for house
expences, carriage, &c.
A Medical Board has been formed here, which, a short time since,
examined into the qualifications of the different medical men,
propounding questions which, I am told, would have puzzled Esculapius
himself to answer. Two unfortunate Irishmen were caught in the trap,
and forbidden to practise. Paddy, at no time, likes his talent to be
depreciated: accordingly, one of them took up the pen, and wrote a long
philippic; the other did not confine himself to this, but made use of
language, in the full senate of medical sages, that consigned him to a
dungeon for three weeks, and he was afterwards banished the country. A
French doctor was suspended, for an error in the accouchement of a lady.
There is a North-American doctor (Bond), and plenty of native ones.
I should think this would be an excellent place for quack doctors;
indeed, they are beginning the trade already. A medicine called
_Panquimagoge_, invented by a man named Le Roy, "the immortal Le Roy,"
as the papers stated, was puffed up, as being a certain cure for
all complaints, equalling the miracles of Prince Hohenlohe. He who
doubted the efficacy of _Panquimagoge_, was rated an _ignoramus_. Its
discoverer, it was added, had a statue of gold erected to his memory in
the Havannah. During this infatuation, the medicine sold at an enormous
price; but the bubble soon burst: several persons became seriously
ill, and others absolutely lost their lives, by taking it. The former
enthusiasts looked quite "chop-fallen." Strange to say, several
Englishmen were the dupes of this quackery; indeed, the old and young,
healthy and infirm, all took _Panquimagoge_.
Several English have purchased _estancias_, or farms for breeding of
cattle; but, I fear, they will find some difficulty in competing with
the natives, who have every advantage over them in this branch of
commerce.
The British Commercial Subscription Room, in Buenos Ayres, is a concern
entirely British; and none but those of that nation are, by the laws
of the room, allowed to subscribe. The present subscribers are about
fifty-six; and it is supported at a moderate expence. It has been
established since the year 1810, and affords not only a relaxation,
but a source of continual information. A constant look-out is kept for
vessels arriving and departing; and entries are made of them, and sent
home. By means of excellent telescopes, national flags can be discerned
at a great distance. They have a constant supply of English newspapers:
the Courier, the Times, Morning Chronicle, Bell's Messenger, Liverpool
and other Gazettes, as well as those of Buenos Ayres, Price Currents,
Shipping List, Quarterly Review, Edinburgh Review, Navy List, and other
publications. The room contains the best maps of Arrowsmith, of the four
quarters of the globe; charts of the river Plate; a picture of Nelson's
death, finely executed, and another of the battle of Copenhagen.
A committee have the management of the room, but its general
superintendence devolves on the secretary. Correct mercantile
information can always be obtained there; and every stranger is at
perfect liberty to collect the news of the day, although, from the
nature of the institution, none but British subjects can subscribe.
To enjoy the privilege of reading in the rooms, the parties must be
regularly introduced by a subscriber.[9] All British residents of
respectability are expected to subscribe.
[9] Clerks are no longer permitted to enter the reading-room, unless
they subscribe, or make application to their employers for a ticket:
this they have declined to do, and keep aloof from the room, depriving
themselves of their chief source of amusement.
The members dine together once in every quarter, at Faunch's hotel, and
discuss the affairs of the society.
The British Commercial Room is held in the house of Mrs. Clark,[10] Dona
Clara; and what person has visited Buenos Ayres without hearing of this
lady--the "Lady Bountiful" of the place?
[10] Mrs. C. formerly possessed a handsome competence, gained by
keeping an hotel; but her fortune has been much reduced, by advances
made to her late husband, Captain Taylor, and by losses in different
speculations. She has now retired from business, and lives upon a
moderate annuity. Her adopted daughter, Dona Panchita, who is grown
a fine girl, resides with her. Captain Taylor was a visionary, yet a
good-hearted man; he died in October, 1822. I am informed that it was
he who first lowered the Royal Spanish flag, and hoisted the Patriot
flag, at the Fort, at the beginning of the revolution.
There is a library of English books attached to the room, consisting of
600 volumes, and which is every day increasing. It is a distinct affair;
and natives of all countries can subscribe to it. Several Creole
gentlemen, who speak English, North Americans, &c. belong to it. The
secretary to the Commercial Room acts as librarian.
Some individuals have attributed illiberality to the Commercial Room, in
not permitting those of other nations to become members; but, waiving
the right which the British have for an establishment of their own, if
they like to support it, Great Britain might be involved in war, and it
could not then be pleasant to come in daily contact with natives of
hostile countries.
Letters arriving by British vessels were, until October, 1821,
forwarded to the Commercial Room, which collected and paid the
government the postage; but this arrangement always caused great
jealousy to foreigners, and they are now sent to the Post Office, where
every facility is afforded. Many English letters, however, to persons
up the country, never reach their destination, from the practice of
allowing any one to take letters from the office who will pay for them:
mean curiosity has caused the loss of many letters by this mode.
The recent establishment of packets to Buenos Ayres (the first of which,
the Countess of Chichester, arrived on the 16th April, 1824) is an event
of some consequence. They bring the correspondence for Chili and Peru,
opening a direct and speedy communication with regions, which Spanish
jealousy, not many years ago, had shut out from the rest of the world.
The captains of these packets must not, for the present, expect to find
their employments to Buenos Ayres very lucrative: but little specie goes
home, and there are few passengers that can afford to pay the packet
price, which really is not exorbitant, considering the excellent
accommodations and fare provided; _viz._ For the cabin, £80 sterling;
steerage, £40. Their arrival is looked forward to with great anxiety
by all classes. At first, they made long passages; latterly, they
have improved in this respect: the _Lord Hobart_ packet came out in
forty-seven days; the _Eclipse_ brought thirteen passengers, chiefly
gentlemen connected with mining affairs. They will soon prove a
profitable employment to their commanders; and, certainly, the system
altogether reflects the highest credit upon the British government, the
only nation which has such an establishment.
The inclination which Englishmen, engaged in business, have, when at
home, to live away from the scene of their pursuits, at a short distance
from town, is shewn here; and we have the Stockwells, the Kenningtons,
the Newingtons, the Camberwells, &c. of Buenos Ayres, with the attached
farm-yards, orchards, and gardens, similar to those in the vicinity of
London, wanting only the stages, and the eighteen-penny ride from the
Bank and Gracechurch Street. Their houses may be easily recognized, from
the degree of neatness and comfort attached. The house of Mr. Fair,
situated upon an eminence near the water-side, southward of the Fort, is
a good land-mark. Mr. F. has lately built it at a considerable expence.
Mr. Cope's house, near the Retiro, I think the most pleasantly situated
of all.
The British have been engaged in numerous disputes with this government.
The last that occurred was in April, 1821, upon the decree ordering all
foreigners to take up arms; which the British very properly refused to
do, for it could not be expected they would submit to be made parties in
their quarrels. Captain O'Brien, of H.M.S. _Slaney_, then at anchor
in the outer roads,[11] was appointed British agent, and a long
correspondence took place. The affair was, however, settled by the
merchants, and Captain O'Brien felt displeased, conceiving that, having
been thrust forward officially, every arrangement ought to have come
through him. This quarrel caused some stir in Buenos Ayres. One or
two members of the Junta threatened us lustily; but those Tybalts
were silenced by the moderate party. Since then, Mr. Rivadavia's
administration has made every thing go on amicably and smoothly.
[11] The _Slaney_ was stationed in the outer roads, from January,
1821, to February, 1822. Captain Stanhope assumed the command in
October, 1821, Captain O'Brien having been promoted. A laughable event
happened during her stay in the outer roads:--She was accustomed to
signalize with the shore. One day, a black fellow was ordered to
whitewash the wall from which the signals were made on land: he was
mistaken by those on board for a signal ball; and, by a reference,
his position corresponded with the order, to bend sails. Accordingly,
the boatswain piped all hands, and never were sails bent with more
dispatch: the crew, tired of their monotonous life, felt eager to
leave, and with alacrity obeyed the command. During this time, Blackee
had taken another position on the wall: book opened again--it made
the number, to unmoor the ship. This corroboration of the first order
was hailed with joy. Another movement was imperfectly understood; it
seemed to convey--send a boat on shore for the captain; and a boat was
sent for explanation. Captain O'Brien was astonished: the wall was
examined; and there they found the black man harmlessly pursuing
his work, unconscious of the important part he had been performing,
exposed to the ardent gaze, and raising the beating hearts, of 150
men. At a distance of eight miles from the shore, a mistake of this
sort cannot surprise. The crew were greatly disappointed, and, taking
hold of one of their shipmates, a black man, declared that, as they
amused themselves on land by making signals with one of his colour, he
should be the answering pennant.
The dispute between Captain Willes, of H.M.S. _Brazen_, and the
government of Buenos Ayres, caused a considerable bustle. Captain W. was
ordered, by his instructions, to board all vessels of his nation upon
their arrival; in the execution of which, his boat was fired upon by the
gun-brig stationed outside. Other disagreements took place; and Captain
W. was ordered to quit the shore in two hours. He did so. When on board,
fruitless efforts took place to accommodate matters. The boats of
H.M. ship took possession of their brig, and sent her to the inner
roads. The public mind was inflamed by a string of falsehoods and
misrepresentations published in the _Centinella_ newspaper; the doors of
one or two English houses had threatening placards stuck upon them; and
a list was handed about for signatures, to avenge the insult offered
to their flag. I am not aware, if they meant to attack the _Brazen_;
volunteers for such an expedition, I should think, would have been
scarce. The British addressed a note to Captain W. soliciting, that, if
consistent with his duty, he would leave Buenos Ayres, as the present
irritation might lead to extremes. The _Brazen_ sailed for Colonia; her
captain stating, that nothing but consideration for his countrymen on
shore should have tempted him so to do: and thus the affair ended.
The government had promised protection to British persons and property,
the quarrel being a private one; but retaliation would, no doubt, have
taken place, had Captain Willes remained, and seized any of their
vessels. The Buenos Ayres government were somewhat precipitate in their
proceedings, and wanting in their respect to the officer of a nation,
which, if not in alliance, was on terms of strictest friendship with
them. It was regretted by many, that Captain Willes refused to come on
shore, when solicited by Mr. Rivadavia. Our captain was sadly hampered
by what he conceived to be his duty, and the alarm on shore. Those
gentlemen who had been long settled in the country, with their wives and
families, wished, I have no doubt, that the Brazen had been a thousand
miles off, particularly the female branches; though none, I trust,
possessed spirits so mean, as to brook insult for the enjoyment of
present comfort.
The outer roads had long been an object of dispute. I regret that, in
this instance, it should have deprived us of the society of an officer,
whose amiable manners and disposition delight all who have the happiness
of knowing him. At Monte Video, Captain Willes was literally adored. I
do not think the British would have been seriously molested, for they
had numerous friends in the town, and Captain Willes was not without his
advocates. A pamphlet, shortly after, appeared, said to be written by an
Englishman, exposing the malevolence of the _Centinella_.
The appointment of consuls will prevent these disputes in future. Our
naval officers are not the best diplomatists; they would, as a member in
the House of Commons observed, "much rather fight than write."
Some Germans, in Buenos Ayres, were in a terrible fright, lest they
should be taken for Englishmen, when the supposed work of retaliation
should begin. In complexion and appearance, they much resemble us, and
they nearly all speak English. Germans and Americans are all denominated
Englishmen by the natives; they cannot find out the distinction.
A Creole boy once told me, that he supposed every body to be my
countryman, that could say, _How do you do?_ in English.
In the little disagreements that take place on the beach between the
sailors and the natives, the term _English brute_ is always applied to
the former. These disputes are rare, for our sailors do not mix much
amongst them.
Mr. Woodbine Parish, the British consul-general for Buenos Ayres,
seems well adapted for the station he fills: his manners are mild and
gentlemanly. The two vice-consuls, Messrs. Griffiths and Pousset,
share in the same praise; the latter, in countenance and figure, much
resembles the royal family; if he were a trifle more portly, one might
fancy him the Duke of York.
The different states of this part of South America, such as Entre Rios,
Cordova, Santa Fe, Mendoza, &c. sent Members, to attend the congress in
Buenos Ayres, empowering the government to act for them in the treaty
with England; which, after considerable discussion, has been signed and
ratified. Mr. Parish, attended by the vice-consuls and other gentlemen,
went in state to pay his respects to the governor upon the occasion. The
reception of the consul was, of course, flattering: the flag was hoisted
at the fort, and a gun fired. The clause which caused most debate in the
congress, was that of religious toleration. Some of the members seemed
alarmed. It was, however, allowed, with free liberty for Protestants to
build their own places of public worship. This is something gained from
ancient prejudices. I have not, however, a high opinion of English
devoutness in Buenos Ayres. We have now a sort of prayer, or methodist
meeting, held in a private house. A captain of a Liverpool brig brought
out some religious tracts, which he circulated, and hoisted the Bethel
flag in his vessel: I fear he found Buenos Ayres an uncongenial spot for
those subjects.
Another article in this treaty which has given general satisfaction, is,
that no British subject shall be compelled to military service. In any
disputes upon this topic, the British have been the only foreigners
who have stood forward to resist it; the others have remained passive
spectators.
On Sundays and holidays, the British and American consuls hoist the
flags of their respective nations from the tops of their houses. The
Buenos Ayres flag floats by the side of the American: Colonel Forbes,
like a skilful manager, studies the taste of the town.
I have noticed, that many of my countrymen, in their desire to visit
their native land, still talk of returning to Buenos Ayres. They
certainly must feel some attachment to a country in which they have
lived happily for a series of years. Eight or ten years of absence from
home makes a great alteration amongst our dearest friends; some are
dead, and others are absent, or indifferent. In England, too, every one
must be content to mix with the crowd.
A great many of the English are perfect masters of the Spanish language,
having obtained their knowledge of it by a long residence in the
country, and by coming to it at a very early age. I have been surprised
at the quickness with which English children learn it: in a few months
they are able to carry on a conversation, whilst those of riper age take
years to attain it. When a man gets near thirty years of age, he feels
little inclination to study languages.
In mentioning any thing of the English females in Buenos Ayres, I feel
a delicacy bordering on timidity, and ought to recollect the homely
proverb, "The least said is the soonest mended." Certain, however, it
is, that, with some exceptions, they are not a fair specimen of our
country. Those placed in the higher circles are few in number, and
appear to be amiable women, as are many whom I will take the liberty of
calling the second class; but with respect to the lower orders, I can
only say, that I have been more than once reminded of the neighbourhood
of St. Giles's. In reply to some remarks of a Spanish lady, I mustered
courage to tell her, that, in spite of all the charming women of Buenos
Ayres, we had those at home who equalled, if not far surpassed them; of
which I would speedily convince her, could I, with Harlequin's wand,
waft her to my country, where they may be seen in all their charms of
beauty and splendour; and that the few who traversed the ocean, formed
no criterion, a voyage to South America being rather a serious
undertaking for a lady.
In commenting upon the dowdy appearance which some of the British
females make in this country, I am not singular;--all my countrymen
converse upon it, and join me in my opinion.
Families should never think of bringing pretty unmarried servant girls
with them from Europe; they are almost sure of losing them. Be the girls
ever so determined, they will find a difficulty in resisting the offers
of marriage from the numerous English bachelor mechanics, who are at a
sad loss for wives:--a Spanish wife is not to their taste. Therefore,
those who wish to keep their servants, must choose the ugliest they can
procure--something that may be an antidote to the warm passions of
our English Damons. An importation of British females with tolerable
personal charms would answer here, as well as in many other places
abroad. I wish some adventurer would beat up for recruits amongst the
nursery maids at the west end of the town in London; it would be an
excellent speculation, and serve the poor girls into the bargain.