Mr. Horneman appears to have made no inquiries on this curious

subject; but tells us, that having asked, “if there was any

spring of fresh water near?” he was shewn to the one he describes,

undoubtedly the _nearest_, and probably the same as seen by Mr. Brown,

who says, (p. 24 of his Volume of Travels), “that one of the springs

which rise near the ruins described, is observed by the natives,

to be _sometimes cold and sometimes warm_.” Mr. Brown does not

appear to have considered the Oasis of Siwah as that of Ammon. He

had no favourite discovery to set forth and confirm by particular

remarks and circumstances: he had not an interest in his account of

the changeable temperature of this spring, but that of truth. The

periodical variation from hot to cold, and from cold to heat, may

rather, therefore on his relation, be assumed as fact; and be taken

as a matter of proof concurrent with the grove, the spring itself,

the distance from the ruins, and the beauty of the situation, _all_

answering to the descriptions of the _Fountain of the Sun_, given

by ancient writers, and, in reference to the ruins, rendering the

conjecture more probable, that they are those of the Temple of Ammon.

Fifthly, Mr. Horneman says, “that the material of which the

building is constructed, is a limestone, containing _petrifactions

of shells and small marine animals_; and that such stone is _to be

found and dug up in the neighbourhood_:” so too Strabo tells us,

p. 49, that sea fossils and shells were spread on the Oasis of Ammon;

κατὰτὴν μεσόγαιαν ὁρᾷται πολλαχου κόχλων καὶ ὀστρέων καὶ χηραμίδων

πληθος, καὶ λιμνοθάλαττοι καθάπερ φησὶ περὶ τὸ ἱερον τοῦ Ἄμμωνος.

Strabo, p. 50, further noticing the marine substances scattered on the

Oasis of Ammon, cites Eratosthenes, supposing that the sea once reached

to that interior spot of Africa, and supporting his conjecture

by observing, that the oracle could not anciently, and in the

first instance, have been so renowned and visited, if difficult of

access, by being far _inland_. Casaubon’s version expresses it,

“fortassis etiam Ammonis templum, aliquando in mari jacuisse,

quod nunc maris effluxu sit in mediâ terrâ; ac conjicere se,

oraculum illud optimâ ratione tam illustre ac celebre factum,

esse quòd in mari esset situm, neque ejus gloriam probabile esse

tantam potuisse existere, quanta nunc est, si tam longè fuisset a

mari dissitum.” P. 50. The poet follows the geographer’s idea,

and derives a fine sentiment for the mouth of Cato.

Numen · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · ·

· · · · · · · · · · steriles nec legit arenas,

Ut caneret paucis, mersitque hoc pulvere verum.

Pharsal. lib. ix. v. 576.

Now, taking the simple fact, the stones with which the Temple of

Ammon was built, might be supposed to contain _fragments of marine

animals and shells_, such as those mentioned by Horneman. For the

rest, Strabo’s (or rather Eratosthene’s) conjecture is scarcely

admissible.

The Libyan Ammon had long been venerated in Greece, and throughout

the then civilized world. A subordinate temple was consecrated to

Ammon in Laconia, and the god was yet more anciently worshipped

by the Aphytæi. Paus. Kuhn, p. 293. Another temple was raised to

Ammon in Bœotia, and in which Pindar dedicated a statue of the god;

and the same great poet wrote a hymn to the Lybian deity, and sent

the copy to its priesthood in Africa. Bœotica, p. 741. So anciently

and so highly as the oracle of Ammon was revered, and so much as it

was resorted to by the most enlightened nations of Greece, Asia,

and Egypt, the circumstance of its once having been situated on

the coasts of the sea, could not have escaped tradition or direct

historical account, if such had ever been the fact.

The above remarks are with deference submitted to the reader,

as adding probability to the conjecture, that the ruins seen by

Mr. Horneman, in the vicinity of Siwah, may be the actual remains

of the _ancient oracular temple of Ammon_.

Having in the above comment cited a passage from the _Pharsalia_,

not as authority, but for purpose of inference; and having further

adverted to a sentiment attributed to the philosophic hero of the

poem, in reference to the inland and sequestered situation of the

temple of Ammon; the annotator is induced to close this essay with

a version of the admirable speech of Cato at length, as deriving a

peculiar interest from connection with the subject under discussion,

appearing to terminate, (and leave as it were, in ruins,) the

superstitions of the oracle, with the fabric of its temple.

Lucan tells us, that Cato approaching the Fane of Jupiter Ammon in

Lybia, was requested by Labienus to demand of the oracle,—“What

was to be the fate of Cæsar?—whether Rome was to be enslaved or

free?—and in what consisted virtue, &c. &c.”

Cato, (his spirit flaming high, as e’er

From Ammon’s fane burst forth in prophecy)—

Spoke from his heart,—the sacred shrine of truth!—

“What wouldst thou, Labienus?—should I ask,

If being free, that freedom I’d resign?

If I would die,—before I’d be a slave?

If life is nought,—when measur’d but by years?

If evil can affect the good;—or whether

The threat of Fortune’s lost upon the brave?

If to deserve well is enough?—or if,

Desert is yet dependant on success?

All this I know:—Ammon can’t tell ME more!

We all depend on God:—(his priest and oracle

Silent) His will is known, nor does he need

A voice, but that within the breast of man:

Our duties are implanted on our births!

The God of Nature ne’er confin’d his lessons

Here, to the few;—or buried his great truths

In Afric’s sands.—Is not HIS HOLY PLACE,—

At once all earth, sea, air, and heav’n, and virtue?—

God is, whate’er we see,—where’er we move!

Let those who doubt, go ask at yonder fane

Their lot?—not knowing how they’d act, or feel.

No oracle confirms, or moves, _my_ thoughts;

—Makes nought more sure:—I know I am to die,

And this doth make me sure,—of how to live!

The coward and the brave, the bad and good

Alike must die!—and God declaring this,

Made known to man, all man requires to know!”

Thus Cato spoke,—turn’d from the hallow’d fane

In faith and virtue satisfied; and left

Ammon, to Ammon’s votaries,—the people.

W. Y.

_Ille Deo plenus, tacitâ quem mente gerebat,_

_Effudit dignas adytis è pectore voces:_

_“Quid quæri, Labiene, jubes?—an liber in armis_

_Occubuisse velim potiùs, quàm regna videre?_

_An sit vita nihil, sed longam differat ætas?_

_An noceat vis ulla bono?—Fortunaque perdat_

_Oppositâ virtute minas,—laudandaque velle_

_Sit satis, et nunquam successu crescat honestum?_

_Scimus; et hoc nobis non altiùs inseret Ammon._

_Hæremus cuncti Superis, temploque tacente,_

_Nil facimus non sponte Dei: nec vocibus ullis_

_Numen egit: dixitque semel nascentibus auctor_

_Quicquid scire licet; steriles nec legit arenas_

_Ut caneret paucis, mersitque hoc pulvere verum._

_Estne Dei sedes, nisi terra, et pontus, et aër,_

_Et cœlum, et virtus? Superos quid quærimus ultrà?_

_Juppiter est quodcunque vides, quocumque moveris!_

_Sortilegis egeant dubii, semperque futuris_

_Casibus ancipites: me non oracula certum,_

_Sed mors certa facit: pavido, fortique cadendum est._

_Hoc satis est dixisse Jovem.” Sic ille profatur_

_Servatâque fide, templi discedit ab aris,_

_Non exploratum populis Ammona relinquens._

Lucan, lib. ix. v. 564.

* * * * *

=POSTSCRIPT.=

* * * * *

=POSTSCRIPT.=

It may be satisfactory to his Employers and to the Public, to receive

some further account of Mr. Horneman, on termination of the travels

more immediately the subject of his Journal.

By a letter from Mr. Horneman, dated at Tripoly, August 19, 1799,

it appears, that on coming to Mourzouk, the end of October, 1798,

he was informed that a caravan was preparing to set out for Soudan in

three divisions, of which the first was to depart in three days after

his arrival. The period fixed for departure of the last division,

allowed time for the necessary preparations, and Mr. Horneman had

intended to proceed with it on a journey to the Agades and Cashna;

but informations he afterwards received induced him to alter

his purpose. He was told that the caravan was likely to meet with

obstruction or attack in passing through a country of the Tuaricks,

then at war with Fezzan; and he observed that the caravan consisted

wholly of black traders, from whose intercourse or connection he

was not likely to derive either useful consequence or patronage,

which might facilitate his friendly reception with the Moors of

interior Africa. These and other circumstances induced him to forego

the present opportunity, and with the less regret, as, at no distant

period, a great caravan was expected from Bornou, with which, on its

return, he might travel to the greatest advantage. Whilst remaining

at Mourzouk, himself and his servant Frendenburgh were seized with

the country fevers: Horneman recovered, but his servant died.

On the re-establishment of his health, Horneman found that some

months yet must elapse before the caravan could be expected from

Bornou: and in the interval of public resort from the arrival or

passage of the caravans, Mourzouk affording no further objects of

curiosity or interest, he determined to proceed to Tripoly, for the

purpose of transmitting to the Committee of the African Association,

such intelligence as he had hitherto collected in their service. He

arrived at Tripoly, after a journey of two months, about the middle

of August; transacted the business he had in view, and on the 1st of

December, 1799, set out on his return to Mourzouk, where he arrived

January 20th, 1800.

Two letters from Mourzouk have been since received, and at date of

writing the last, Mr. Horneman was on _the eve of setting out with

the caravan for Bornou_; and with intention from that remote kingdom

to prosecute further discoveries to the westward, and in the heart

of Africa.

The letters from Mourzouk are as follow:

“SIR, “_Mourzouk, February_ 20, 1800.

“I left Tripoly the 1st of December, 1799, and arrived here (the

capital of Fezzan) January 20th, 1800, after a safe and good journey,

though protracted and slow. I am in the best health, and with fair

probability of its continuance.

“The route from hence to Soudan, is not yet secure enough for me

to undertake proceeding by way of the Agades.

“There is now at this place, a Shereef of Bornou, a man of sense,

and very much considered by the Sultan of that country. I have made

him my friend, and it is in his company I shall depart from this

place about the 15th of March for Bornou, whence in the months of

August or September, I think to reach Cashna, distant from Bornou

about fifteen days journey.

“I shall write as often as opportunity offers, that at least some

letters may arrive for your information, and the tranquillity of

my family.

“I remain, with great esteem,

“SIR,

“Your most obedient,

“FREDERICK HORNEMAN.”

_Right Hon. Sir Joseph Banks, K. B. President of the Royal Society,

&c._

“SIR, “_Mourzouk, April_ 6, 1800.

“Our caravan is on the point of setting off for Bornou, myself

shall join it in the evening.

“Being in an excellent state of health, perfectly inured to

the climate, sufficiently acquainted with the manners of my

fellow-travellers, speaking the Arabic language, and somewhat of

the Bornou tongue, and being well armed and not without courage,

and under protection of two great Shereefs, I have the best hopes

of success in my undertaking.

“The Soudan caravan left this place about a month ago; I did

well not to join it, as some time past a number of Tibbo were seen

hovering, with an intention of attacking that caravan.

“Being the first European traveller undertaking so long a journey

in this part of the world, _I will not put my discoveries to the

hazard, by exposing myself to the casualties of long and unnecessary

residence and delays in any one place_, and propose staying no longer

at Bornou than till the month of September, when I shall proceed to

Cashna with the great caravan, which always about that time of the

year sets out from Bornou for Soudan.

“I cannot yet decide on my further procedure on leaving Soudan,

or Cashna, but you may depend on my best intentions and wishes to

give full satisfaction to the Society.

“Consider this letter as the last for this year, or perhaps as the

last before my arrival at some port on the coast of Africa. March

the 24th I sent a long letter from Tripoly, and being by a good

opportunity, have no doubt of its arriving safe.[12]

“In addition to what I stated in my letter of the 24th of March, I

have to observe, that in the small-pox, the application used here to

preserve the eyes of children, consists of what they term _samsuc_,

(tamarinds,) and _zurenbula zigollan_, (onions,) and this with good

effect, as I am told.

“I have more particularly made inquiry respecting venereal

disorders, and can confirm what I before wrote, that salts and

coloquintida, (in Arabic _handal_) are specific remedies for that

disease in this country, and used in the manner I described.

“From every information I can collect, the natives of Fezzan are not

susceptible of venereal infection more than once in their lives. It

is singular, that notwithstanding there is a great difference as

to the nature of this disease, between poxes brought here by the

caravan from Soudan, and by those from Tripoly and Cairo, yet never

(or at least very seldom,) can a man get these two sorts one after

the other in the course of his life.

“Some days past I spoke to a man who had seen Mr. Brown in Darfoor;

he gave me some information respecting the countries he travelled

through, and told me, that the communication of the Niger with the

Nile was not to be doubted, but that this communication before the

rainy season was very little in those parts; the Niger being at the

dry period reposing, or _non fluens_.

“Not long ago, the same custom was observed at Bornou as in ancient

times at Cairo, ‘a girl very richly dressed, was thrown into the

river Niger.’

“Comparing my enquiries as to Soudan, and its communication with

the western and south-western coasts of Africa, it must lay generally

by the way of Nyffé and Jerba, and be twelve times greater than

that between Fezzan and Soudan.

“I recommend myself to your remembrance, and assuring you of my

great esteem, am

“SIR,

“Your most obedient,

“FREDERICK HORNEMAN.”

_Right Hon. Sir Joseph Banks, K. B. President of the Royal Society,

&c._

Mr. Horneman, previous to setting out for Bornou, had availed

himself of the intimacies he had formed with intelligent pilgrims

and merchants of the Egyptian caravan, and with others at Mourzouk,

who were natives of, or had traded to, different regions of Africa,

to collect every possible information respecting the countries he

was about to visit; and, together with his Journal, transmitted the

following result of his enquiries.

FOOTNOTES:

[Footnote 12: It never came to hand.]

INTELLIGENCE

CONCERNING THE

INTERIOR PART OF NORTH AFRICA.

* * * * *

SECTION I.

Westward from Fezzan, and to the south and south-west, the country

is inhabited by the Tibbo, who command also the country from Fezzan

towards Egypt, from which it is said to be separated by a large

desert. The nearest inhabited places north of Tibbo are Augila and

Siwah. On the south they are bounded by wandering Arabs; and on the

west beyond Fezzan, by the dominions of the Tuaricks.

The Tibbo are not quite black; their growth is slender; their

limbs are well turned; their walk is light and swift; their eyes

are quick, their lips thick, their nose is not turned up, and not

large; their hair is not very long, but less curled than that of the

Negroes. They appear to have much natural capacity, but they have

too few opportunities of improving it, being surrounded by barbarous

nations, or Mahometans. Their intercourse with the Arabs, to whom

they convey slaves, has probably corrupted them; they are accused of

being mistrustful, treacherous, and deceitful. The Fezzanians do not

travel singly with them, for they are afraid of being surprised and

murdered at the instigation of the company with whom they travel. The

language of the Tibbo is spoken with extraordinary rapidity, and

has many consonants, particularly the L and S. They number thus:

One, _Trono._

Two, —.

Three, _Agesso._

Four, _Fusso._

Five, _Fo._

Ten, _Markum._

Their cloathing consists of sheep-skins, which they dress with or

without the wool; the former for winter, the latter for summer;

but the inhabitants of the principal places, or others, when they

go to Fezzan, clothe themselves like the Burmuans, in large blue

shirts; their head is wrapt in a dark blue cloth in such a manner,

that their eyes only are seen. Their weapons are a lance about six

feet long, and a knife from fifteen to twenty inches long, which

they carry on their left arm, the sheath being fastened to a ring

of leather about three inches wide, which they bear on their wrist.

The Tibbo are divided into several tribes, the principal of which

are, the Tibbo of Bilma, whose chief resides at Dyrke, about one

day’s journey from Bilma. This tribe is a good deal mixed, having

established itself forcibly among the Negroes who lived in that

district: to this day, the inhabitants of Bilma are mostly Negroes;

in Dyrke, on the contrary, they are Tibbo. This tribe carries on a

commerce between Fezzan and Burnu, and apparently with great safety

to themselves; for they travel in small companies of six or eight

men; but on account of their bad character, the slaves of either

sex, from Burnu, who have been freed, do not return with them,

as the poor people are afraid of being plundered and sold again,

or murdered by them.

The religion of the Tibbo of Bilma, is the Mahometan; but it is said

they hold it very cheap.

The tribe of the Tibbo Rschade, or the Rock Tibbo, is so called from

their houses being built under rocks, and they frequently live even in

caves, before which they build huts of rushes in a very coarse manner,

for their summer residence. The chief of this tribe lives in Abo;

next to which Tibesty is the largest place. The Tibbo Rschade go in

multitudes to Fezzan, at which time they clothe themselves like the

Tuarick; however, I have seen several wearing their sheep-skins. This

tribe is reported to be good Mahometans.

The Tibbo Burgu are said to be still Pagans: the district which they

inhabit, abounds in dates, corn, and grass.

A company of Fezzanians having this year been plundered by some

of the people of Burgû, as they were travelling from Bergami to

Mourzouk, the sultan of Fezzan sent a small army into their country:

it consisted of thirty-two men on horseback, seventy Arabs on foot,

and about two hundred Tibbos of the Rschade tribe. The Arabs went

from Mourzouk into Gatron, fifty-four miles south of that place;

to Fegherie thirty-three miles south-south-east of Gatron; then to

Abo seven days, and Tibesty three days, in an easterly direction;

then to Burgu eighteen days, (reckoning a day’s journey eighteen

miles.) They stole about two hundred people, the greatest part of

whom were sold in a treacherous manner.

The women of the Burgu tribe, wear their hair in plaits, which

hang down from their heads, but the hair on the fore-part of their

heads is cut off. The girls are accused of becoming pregnant by

their brothers. The slave of one of my friends, who spoke the Tibbo

language, assured me, that he had questioned a young woman who was

with child, and that she did not deny it.

Farther towards the east lies Arna, the principal place of another

Tibbo tribe, at the distance of five or six days.

South-south-west of Augila dwell the Febabo, who are exposed to

the yearly depredations of the Arabs of Bengasi, who go out with

the Arabs of Augila, to steal men and dates; and for that purpose,

they convey with them several hundred camels.

The distance to Febabo was stated to me by the Augilarians to be

ten days journey, (twenty-one miles per day,) and that during the

first six days no water is to be found. The most southerly of the

Tibbo tribes are the Nomadic Tibbo, who live in the _Bahr-el-Gasel_,

which is said to be a long and fruitful valley, seven days journey

from Bergami northward.

SECTION II.

The west and south of Fezzan is inhabited by the Tuarick, a mighty

people, who border south-west on Burnu; south on Burnu, Soudan,

and Tombuctoo; eastward on the country of the Tibbo and Fezzan;

northward on part of Fezzan, and the Arabs who live behind the

regions of Tripoly, Tunis, and Algiers; and westward on the great

empire of Fez and Morocco, of whom a few colonies are found in Sockna,

(in the dominion of Fezzan), Augila, and Siwah; in which places the

language of the Tuarick is the only one spoken by the inhabitants.[13]

The Tuarick are divided into many nations and tribes, who all speak

the same language; but, by their colour and manner of living, it

is probable that they differ widely in their origin. As I will give

only certain informations, on this account I confine myself, in the

following relation, to the Tuarick of the nation of Kolluvi and the

tribe of Hagara. These are thin in growth, rather tall than short;

their walk is swift but firm; their look is stern, and their whole

demeanour is warlike. Cultivated and enlightened, their natural

abilities would render them, perhaps, one of the greatest nations

upon earth. Their character (particularly that of Kolluvi,) is much

esteemed. The western tribes of this nation are white, as much as

the climate and manner of living will admit. The Kolluvians who

reached the region of Asben and conquered Agades, and mixed with

the nations, are of different colours; many of them are black;

but their features are not like those of Negroes. The Hagara and

Matkara are yellowish, like the Arabs; near Soudan there are tribes

entirely black. The clothing of this nation consists of wide dark-blue

breeches, a short narrow shirt of the same colour, with wide sleeves,

which they bring together and tie on the back of their neck, so

that their arms are at liberty. They wind a black cloth round their

head in such a manner that at a distance it appears like a helmet,

for their eyes only are seen. Being Mahometans, they cut off their

hair, but leave some on the top of the head, round which those who

wear no cap, contrive to fold their black cloth, so that it appears

like a tuft on their helmet. Round their waist they wear a girdle of

a dark colour; from several cords which fall from their shoulders,

hangs a koran in a leather pouch, and a row of small leather bags

containing amulets. They always carry in their hands a small lance,

neatly worked, about five feet long. Above the left elbow, on the

upper part of the arm, they wear their national badge, a thick,

black or dark-coloured ring, of horn or stone.

Their upper dress is a Soudanian shirt, over which a long sword hangs

from the shoulder. The travelling merchants of this nation carry

fire-arms; the others use only the sword, the lance, and the knife,

which they carry on their left arm, like the Tibbo, but the handle

is finely worked; for they have the art of giving to copper as bright

a colour as the English artists, and this art they keep very secret.

They carry on a commerce between Soudan, Fezzan, and Gadames. Their

caravans give life to Mourzouk, which, without them, is a desert;

for they, like the Soudanians, love company, song and music.

The Tuarick are not all Mahometans. In the neighbourhood of Soudan

and Tombuctoo live the Tagama, who are white, and of the Pagan

religion. This must have occasioned the report, to which my attention

has been called, by several learned men, that there are white

Christians in the neighbourhood of Tombuctoo. I am convinced that the

fable arises solely from the expression _Nazary_ (i. e. Christians),

which the Arabs and Mahometans use in general for unbelievers.

The greatest part of the eastern Tuarick lead a wandering life. A

place, for instance, under the government of Hagara consists of about

twenty-five or thirty stone houses only; but at the time of their

markets (which are said to be very considerable), many hundred men

assemble there with their leathern tents.

[Illustration]

SECTION III.

Behind these countries lies Tombuctoo, of which I shall say nothing,

as I could not get any well-founded and certain accounts, for there

is little intercourse between this region and Fezzan; however, it

certainly is the most remarkable and principal town in the interior

of Africa.

Eastward from Tombuctoo lies Soudan, Haussa, or Asna; the first is

the Arabic, the second is the name used in the country, and the last

is the Burnuan name. Of these three names I choose the second, as

being the most proper, and understood by the Arabs below Soudan, and

all the land southward from Ghaden. The Burnuan name means properly

only Kano and Kashna, and the country lying eastward from that region

Asna, but incorrectly spoken, it comprehends also Tombuctoo.

As to what the inhabitants themselves call Haussa, I had, as I think,

very certain information. One of them, a Marabut, gave me a drawing

of the situation of the different regions bordering on each other,

which I here give as I received it. (See the Sketch opposite.)

The land within the strong line is Haussa; my black friend had

added Asben.

These regions are governed by Sultans, of whom those of Kashna and

Kano are the most powerful; but they all (either by constraint or

policy) pay tribute to Burnu, except Cabi or Nyffé, their districts

being at too great a distance. Guber pays, moreover, a tribute to

Asben. Zamtara is united with Guber; the Sultan of the latter having

taken possession of it, killed the Sultan, and sold all the prisoners

he could take.

The Haussa are certainly Negroes, but not quite black; they are

the most intelligent people in the interior of Africa; they are

distinguished from their neighbours by an interesting countenance;

their nose is small and not flattened, and their stature is not so

disagreeable as that of the Negroes, and they have an extraordinary

inclination for pleasure, dancing, and singing. Their character is

benevolent and mild. Industry and art, and the cultivation of the

natural productions of the land, prevail in their country; and, in

this respect, they excel the Fezzanians, who get the greatest part

of their clothes and houshold implements from the Soudanians. They

can dye in their country any colour but scarlet. Their preparation

of leather is as perfect as that of the Europeans, although the

manner of doing it is very troublesome. In short, we have very unjust

ideas of this people, not only with respect to their cultivation and

natural abilities, but also of their strength and the extent of their

possessions, which are by no means so considerable as they have been

represented. Their music is imperfect, when compared to the European;

but the Haussanian women have skill enough to affect their husbands,

thereby even to weeping, and to inflame their courage to the greatest

fury against their enemies. The public singers are called Kadanka.

SECTION IV.

Eastward from Haussa are situated the dominions of the Sultan of Burnu

(_i. e._ the city). It appears to be much increased since the time of

Leo Africanus, as other regions belong to it, which he considered as

independent; for example, Wangara, also Edrisi’s Cauga, &c. belong

to it.

The Sultan of Burnu is reckoned the most powerful in that district;

all the neighbouring states pay him tribute. He certainly possesses

an extensive tract of land, but he gains more by his authority in

the unceasing animosity of his neighbours.

The Burnuans are blacker than the Haussanians, and completely Negroes;

they are stronger, and very patient of labour; their constitution

is in the greatest degree phlegmatic; they are, altogether, much

more rude and uninformed than the Haussanians. Their men are fond

of women only of a large size; the Soudanians, on the contrary,

prefer those of a slender form.

A paste made of flour and flesh is the only food of the Burnuans;

the liquor they drink is an intoxicating kind of beer, which is very

nourishing. The best natural production of Burnu is copper, which

is said to be found in small native pieces. That which is gold in

Tombuctoo and Haussa, is answered by copper in Burnu; the value of

all their commodities is fixed by pounds of this metal.

Northward from the principal town of that district lies Kanena,

which is inhabited by the nation Kojam, so called from their food,

which is cow’s milk and beef.

Towards the north-east lies Begarmé, the capital of which is called

Mesna. Both these territories are dependants of Burnu. Begarmé

is famous for its slave trade, perhaps particularly so, as at that

place the greatest number of boys are mutilated.

Southward from Burnu lie Margi and Couga; westward, Ungura, (Wangara);

they are under the dominion of governors appointed by the Sultan.

SECTION V.

Towards east by north lies Lussi; by the natives it is called Fiddri,

and by the people who dwell eastward, Cougu. The dominions of the

Sultan of Fiddri are situated round a lake which bears the same

name. This realm was formerly one of the most powerful, now it

is considerably diminished, by the treachery of the Sultans of

Begarmé and Wadey. The natives live in small huts, which they

prefer to houses; they are said to be in a very low degree of

civilization. There is not any salt in their country, but they

procure it in the following manner: they burn a great heap of straw

of _gassab_, gather the ashes and put them in a basket, pour water

on them, and collect it as it runs through; this water they boil

until the salt settles.

Towards the south-east of Fiddri lies Metko, a small independent

district in a mountainous country. Eastward lies Wadey, which formerly

consisted of several small states, but was conquered by the Arabs,

who united and made them one realm. The principal language is Arabic;

but above ten other languages are spoken in the district. Wandering

Arabs occupy the space from Wadey to Begarmé northward.

Eastward from Wadey lies Darfoor; from whence flows a river, the

banks of which are very rich in sugar canes: it runs through Wadey,

and falls into the lake Fiddri above-mentioned. I had very different

accounts of the circumference of this lake, as in the rainy season

it swells to double the extent, which, ordinarily, is from four to

eight days journey.

SECTION VI.

The river that was seen by Mr. Park on his journey to Tombuctoo,

flows southward from Haussa. It waters Nyffé and Cabi, where it is

called Julbi; and runs eastward into the district of Burnu, where

it takes the name of Zad, which means the great water; in some parts

of Haussa, it is called Gaora, or the great water.

All the Burnuans and Haussans whom I questioned about the distant

regions of this river, agreed in telling me, “that it ran through

the land of Majies, (_i. e._ Heathens;) by Sennaar: others affirmed

that it passes Darfoor, in its course eastward, and flows to Cairo,

being one stream with the Egyptian Nile.”

A native of Egypt from Osuit, who had travelled several times to

Darfoor, and southward from that place to collect slaves, and lately

returned through Wadey, Fiddri, and Begarmé, to Fezzan, informed me,

that the river called _Bah-el-Abiad_, is this river. I could get

no intelligence about a great inland lake, although I made every

possible inquiry.

Besides these two great rivers here described, there are seven small

streams in Haussa, which fall into the Julbi near Berva. Northward

from Burnu, there is a river which disappears among the mountains,

and is said to rush into the earth. All these rivers are very low

in the dry season, and swell amazingly during the rainy season. The

breadth of the Zad was given me for one mile, (others said two); but

in the rainy season, the breadth is said to be a day’s journey,

(_i. e._ eight hours). The Budumas always keep themselves in the

middle of this stream; they are a very savage, heathenish nation.

These few informations are the best that I have been able to collect,

on the interior of Africa. In this relation, I pass over men with

tails, without necks, and without hair, without land, and living

only on the great sea. It would be an easy matter for me to write

you many letters on the interior state of Africa; but I might thereby

convey information inaccurate or untrue. Besides, am I not returning

to England? and if I do return, should I not reserve something new

and interesting to plead my excuse for returning?

If I do not perish in my undertaking, I hope in five years, I shall

be able to make the Society better acquainted with the people,

of whom I have given this short description.

(Signed) FREDERICK HORNEMAN.

1798.

_Extracts from a Letter accompanying the above Informations, dated

Tripoly, 19th of August, 1799._

“After a journey of eleven days from Siwah, four of which we

travelled eighteen hours each day, through a desert, we arrived at

Augila, a small miserable town belonging to Tripoly; and after a

journey of sixteen days more, we reached Temissa, the first village

of Fezzan. Seven of these sixteen days, I was passing a black rocky

desert, certainly the worst of all routes in the world; and which

has doubtless been formed by some volcanic revolution. It is called

Harutsch, and extend very far to the south-west.

“From Temissa, I came by way of Zuila, Tuila, and Tragan, to

Mourzouk, (which is also called Fezzan, and by the people of Burnu,

_Zela_). Mourzouk is situated in 25° 54′ 15″ north latitude.

“With regard to the interior of Africa, I have made all the

inquiries possible, and will send you the result of them by the

first opportunities. Accept for the present the following notices

on that subject.

“The river you call Niger—in Soudan, _Gulbi_, or _Gaora_;

in Burnu, _Zad_; is a very large river, into which fall more than

twelve other rivers. It comes from Tombuctoo, as I am told, runs

to the south of Haussa (or Soudan), in the empire of Burnu; here

it takes a more southern direction, and falls (at least I could not

find a single man who said to the contrary), south of Darfoor into

the Nile. There is another river coming from Darfoor, which passes

by Wadey and Metko, and terminates in a large lake called _Fiddri_,

in a kingdom called by the inhabitants Fiddri; by the people to

the east of them, _Cougu_; and by those on the west, _Lussi_. The

lake of Fiddri is four days in circumference, but in the time of

the rains much more extensive, inundating the surrounding country,

which, after the waters are withdrawn, is sown and cultivated.

“Near to _Mesna_, the capital of Bergamé, is another large river;

but it is considerable only in the rainy season. Bahr of Gazelles,

or _Wad-el-Gazelles_, is not a river, but a long and fertile valley,

inhabited by Nomadian Tibbo, whose houses are made of skins.

“_Burnu_ is the most powerful kingdom in the interior of Africa. The

next to it is the sultan of _Asben_, who resides at Agades. The kings

of the countries of which Haussa consists, all pay tribute to Burnu;

these are _Kashna_, _Daura_, _Keeno_, _Sofau_, _Noro_, _Nyffé_,

_Gaauri_, _Cabi_, _Guber_, (Zanfara belongs to Guber.) Kashna pays

every year 100 slaves, &c. Some of them pay to Burnu and Asben. The

king of Asben with the greatest part of his nation are Tuaricks of the

tribe _Kolluvi_. Many of the Tuaricks near to Tombuctoo, are white;

and another tribe near to Burnu, are also white, like the Arabs of

the northern coast of Africa.

“Begarmé pays tribute to Burnu; _Ungura_, (doubtless _Wangara_,

Leo. Afr.) and _Cougu_, are governed by officers of that sultan.

“There is a general opinion of all Burnu and Fezzan people, that

Burnu and Fezzan, according to our manner of speaking, lie under the

same meridian. Burnu is distant from Kashna 15 days, by travelling

very slow 20 fisturnees, or about 330 English miles. Fiddri from Burnu

E by N 25 days. The people of Fiddri have no salt in their country,

but what they prepare from straw ashes.

“A great part of the people of _Wadey_, together with their king,

are Arabs.

“In the direction of south by west from Augila, distant ten days,

or about 200 miles, are the _Febabo_, and some days more to the

south the _Birgu_, nations of the Tibbo, whose country is very fine

and fertile: they are said to be Pagans. It is singular, that the

people of Augila, in speaking of these tribes, make much the same

comparison which Herodotus (Melpom. c. 183.) does, when speaking

of the Ethiopian _Troglodytæ_, hunted by the Garamantes, ‘that

their language is like the whistling of birds.’

“The most interesting nation of Africa, is the _Tuarick_. (Leo

Afr. calls them _Terga_, طرجي.) They are in possession of all the

country between Fezzan, Gadames, the empire of Morocco, Tombuctoo,

Soudan, Burnu, and the country of the Tibbo. They are divided into

several nations, of which the _Kolluvi_ in Asben, and the _Hagara_

near to Fezzan, are the chief.

“Christians and tailed men, I suppose, never will be found in

the interior of Africa. The Mahometans call _Nazari_ (which is

properly the name for Christians) not the Christians only, but also

every other people who are not of their religion. Of tailed men I

heard no accounts, except from one person, (but not a _testis fide

dignissimus_,) who placed them ten days south of Kano; he called

them _Yem Yem_, and said that they were cannibals. In ten months I

shall be near to that direction.

“I shall now, Sir, conclude this letter, which I hope will find

you in good health. I am, &c. &c.

“FREDERICK HORNEMAN.”

FOOTNOTES:

[Footnote 13: I have given further particulars on this subject in

the account of my journey, from Cairo to Fezzan.]

* * * * *

GEOGRAPHICAL ILLUSTRATIONS

OF

MR. HORNEMAN’S ROUTE;

AND

ADDITIONS TO THE GENERAL GEOGRAPHY

OF AFRICA.

BY

MAJOR RENNELL.

* * * * *

CONSTRUCTION

OF THE

GEOGRAPHY OF MR. HORNEMAN’S EXPEDITION

IN AFRICA.

* * * * *

=CHAPTER I.=

* * * * *

In the discussion of the construction of this Geography, I shall

confine myself, as much as possible, to general statements;

reserving more particular details to a future time, when more

materials may arrive: for it is to be observed that although

Mr. Horneman has transmitted much valuable matter, yet that it is not

altogether of the kind required for the construction of mathematical

geography. Fortunately, however, the observations of Mr. Browne and

others, enable me to derive more advantage from those of Mr. Horneman,

than could have been obtained from them, alone.

The geographical positions of Cairo, Alexandria, and Fezzan, have

undergone some small change in the present maps,[14] in consequence

of recent, and it may be supposed, more accurate information. Cairo

is placed 2 min. and Alexandria 13, more to the west, in consequence

of the French observations: and Mourzouk, the capital of Fezzan,

39 G. miles more to the south-east, on a general result of the

authorities; amongst which Mr. Horneman’s is allowed its due

weight. Some other trifling changes have been made, in the positions

of Siwah, and of El Bareton, or _Parætonium_: but none of them are

more than shades of difference, in respect of the geography at large.

The chief alteration is that of Mourzouk, which, by the former

accounts, was said to lie _directly south_ from Mesurata: and this

alteration is grounded on the line of distance of Mr. Horneman, which

does not allow of so great an interval between Egypt and Fezzan,

as that position requires, by nearly 25 G. miles; which after all,

is no great proportion, in more than 800. It is conceived that

Mr. Horneman’s _time_, although kept in a coarse way, ought still

to be preferred to the mere report of the bearing from Mesurata,

on a distance of seventeen or eighteen journies.

I shall begin by tracing in detail the route of Mr. Horneman from

Egypt to Fezzan, dividing it into four parts: 1. From Cairo to

Siwah: 2. Siwah to Augila: 3. Augila to Fezzan: and 4. Remarks on

the position of Mourzouk.

I. _Cairo to Siwah._

Mr. Horneman’s time may be taken at _about_ 123 hours,[15] which at

2,05 G. miles, the ordinary caravan rate, reduced to direct distance,

is equal to 252 G. miles. If taken at 2½ B. miles per hour, which

is the ordinary road distance, with an allowance of ¹⁄₂₀ for

inflexions, (the Desert routes are remarkably straight,) we have

255. Now, Mr. Browne’s route, along the sea coast from Alexandria,

and thence inland from the neighbourhood of _Parætonium_, gives

about 259½, or 6½ more than the lowest of these calculations;

4½ more than the highest. Mr. Browne’s rout lay first along

the coast, 75½ hours; from whence he made a course of about S 19

W (true) 62¼ hours, to Siwah, in the parallel of 29° 12′ by

observation. Considering the sinuosities of the coast, which he kept

to, almost the whole way, perhaps no more than 144, or 145 G. miles,

ought to be allowed in direct distance.

His station on the coast, at about 20 miles east of Parætonium,

should be in lat. 31° 7′, according to M. D’Anville; so that the

bearing of S 19 W cuts the parallel of Siwah, in longitude 26° 24′:

and my former position of it, in the Geography of Herodotus, p. 574,

is 26° 21′ 30″. And as Mr. Horneman does not profess to be

perfectly accurate in his account of the time, (doubtless because he

had lost his papers) I shall adopt the position given by Mr. Browne;

but which differs, as has been shewn, only 4½ miles from the other.

It is proper to be remarked, that the people of Siwah, report the

distance of Cairo, from that place, to be twelve journies only:

but it becomes necessary to inquire what kind of journies these

are, in order to turn this, and other reports of the same kind to

use. These journies then, are meant for those of light travellers,

going few in number together; and not of caravans, where, amongst

a number of camels, there must of course be some of slow pace, (to

which the whole caravan must, of necessity, conform,) not to mention

the increased number of delays by accidents. The people of Siwah

reported the length of the following journies, which are in point:

Siwah to Charje, in the Greater Oasis 12 days.

Derna 14

Faiume (through the Lesser Oasis) 12

Cairo 12

A mean of these, gives about 20,6 per day; the journies to Charje

and Faiume giving 19⅔, the others 21½.[16] As Siwah lies directly

between Derna and the Greater Oasis, we have one line of 26 days,

pretty satisfactorily determined in point of distance, and here the

result is 20,6 also. Twelve such days would give only 247, of course,

for the distance between Cairo and Siwah: so that a rate of 21½

is required. Pliny, lib. v. c. 9, reports twelve journies between

Memphis and Ammon, requiring a rate of 21 per day.

There is yet another statement of the distance, and that is, fifteen

ordinary _caravan_ journies, taken at 16¼ or 16½. The result is

247½; about equal to the 12 days of light travelling.

Possibly, I have taken the distance rather too high, at 259½; but

I know not how to do away Mr. Browne’s line from the neighbourhood

of Parætonium, considering that Mr. Horneman must have given _his_

time from recollection. At all events, Siwah cannot be many miles

out, in its longitude; but whilst the longitudes of the places on

the sea coast remain in a state of uncertainty, one is not likely

to get nearer the truth.

Mr. Browne appears to have been 17 days from his station in lat. 28°

40′, and not far to the SW of Siwah, to Alexandria. A rate of 15⅓

miles is the result; but Mr. Browne being exceedingly ill, the whole

way, it is most probable that his attendants relaxed in their speed.

II. _Siwah to Augila._

Mr. Horneman’s time from Siwah to Augila is 87½ hours,[17] which,

at 2,05 G. miles, give 179,35: but taken on the road distance at 2½

B. miles, as before, 181½. Taken on Horneman’s 11 _mean_ days,

at 16½, it is also 181½. The Arabian geographers reckon it 10 days,

implied of 19 G. miles each, equal to 190. Herodotus also allows 10

days between Ammon and Augila.

It is certain, that Mr. Beaufoy’s MSS. allow 13 days by the route of

Gegabib (the Valley of Dates), which, by Mr. Browne’s information,

lies to the NW of Siwah, whilst the ordinary route, by Schiacha,

leads by the west; but we can hardly suppose that the northern road

is two days farther about than the other. Mr. Horneman, it is true,

lost his papers at Schiacha, and may not have recollected the exact

account of time during the three first days, to that place. I have

accordingly allowed 186, as a mean between Mr. Horneman and Edrisi.

Mr. Horneman could not obtain a satisfactory account of the distance

between Augila and Bengasi, on the sea coast. Edrisi allows 10 days

from Barca; but these, reckoned at 19 each, meet the line from Siwah,

in 30° 7′, which gives a bearing of W 18° N from the latter;

whereas it seems to be the universal opinion, that they lie nearly

in the same parallel.[18]

Delisle and D’Anville go much beyond Edrisi’s distance. The

latter allows 215 from Barca, which is very probable: and he may

perhaps have allowed it from the relations of modern travellers. I

have accordingly adopted it; and it meets the line of 186 from Siwah,

in lat. 29° 30′, lon. 22° 50′. In this position it bears about

W ½ N from Siwah.

Ptolemy allows 3° 16′ diff. lat. between Derna (_Darnis_) and

Augila, which would place the latter, on our Map, in 29½°. He also

makes the line of bearing between Ammon and Augila to be nearly

parallel to the sea coast, between Parætonium and Derna; and it

is certain, although Ptolemy thought otherwise, that the coast lies

much to the north of west.

It may be that the longitudes of the places on the coast of Barca,

are too far to the west, in M. D’Anville’s Maps. Lucas appears

to reckon Augila 11 days only, from Bengasi.

III. _Augila to Fezzan._

From Augila to Fezzan, Mr. Horneman’s time is not kept regularly

in hours, the whole way; owing, perhaps, to the excessive fatigues he

underwent in the _Harutsch_ or _Black Desert_, in which _whole days_

only, are given; but these were exceedingly long, being usually from

morning till night.

All that could be done, was, to reduce these particular days to hours,

and add them to the _enumerated_ hours in the Journal; whence there

results a total of 195 to 196 hours, at the highest calculation:

and these, with proper deductions for the badness of the paths,

in the Harutsch, may be taken at 395 G. miles in direct distance.[19]

M. Delisle states the distance at about 405, or 10 more than the

above result. He probably collected it from the Journals of modern

travellers, as the Arabian geographers allow no less than twenty

of their journies between Augila and Zuila, which place is about 60

G. miles short of Mourzouk.

I shall here set forth the reports of divers persons, respecting

the distance between Cairo and Fezzan; which has been taken above,

chiefly on the report of Mr. Horneman: and, when reduced to a straight

line comes out 829 G. miles.

Messrs. Browne and Ledyard state the distance to be fifty caravan

days; which at 16½, give 825 G. miles.

Edrisi allows forty journies, between Cairo and _Tamest_

(Temissa). These, at 19 each, are equal to 760 G. miles: to which,

if 73 are added, as Horneman allows, from Temissa to Mourzouk,

the total is 833. This route leads through Bahnasa, in the Lesser

Oasis; and, by circumstances, near Siwah also; as a river occurs

at eight days from Bahnasa. Thence it goes to the south of Augila,

and by _Seluban_, which may be intended for the Plain of Sultin.[20]

It is obvious, that if Augila should lie yet more to the south,

or nearer in a line between Cairo and Fezzan, this would lengthen

the given line of distance; and that by 10 or 12 miles.

The comparison of the different authorities, then, is as follows:

By Horneman, 829 }

} mean 827

By Browne and Ledyard, 825 }

By Edrisi, (direct) 833

By Edrisi and Abulfeda, reckoned from Siwah

only, and thence through Augila and Zala 877

By the bearing and distance from Mesurata 854[21]

Thus Horneman’s account falls short of the interval between Cairo

and Mourzouk, when the latter is placed in reference to Mesurata,

by 25 miles only; and the reported caravan distance falls only four

short of Horneman’s. The reports of the Arabian geographers ought

not to be put in competition with either.

IV. _Respecting the Position of Mourzouk, Capital of Fezzan._

Mr. Horneman in his Journal transmitted from Tripoly, states the

latitude of Mourzouk, by observation, to be 25° 54′ 15″;

a parallel so different from the result of the other authorities,

that it becomes necessary to examine those authorities, minutely. The

reported observation, differs nearly two degrees from the parallel

assigned it in the Proceedings of the Association printed in

1798. Without attempting to account for so great an (apparent)

error, I shall proceed to adduce the authorities for its parallel,

as assumed in the present map.

1. Mr. Beaufoy, from the information of certain Tripoline merchants,

has given 17½ journies of the caravan, in a direct south bearing,

from Mesurata on the sea coast.[22] These journies are given at

8 hours, or 20 British miles per day: and I allowed for them 15

geographical miles, in direct distance; but I shall now, finding by

experience that the paths in the Desert are generally very straight,

allow 16½; whence the 17½ days will be found to produce 288¾,

or say 289 G. miles. If these miles were entirely difference of

latitude, Mourzouk would not be lower than 27° 22′ 2″, as

Mesurata is said to lie in 32° 10′.

2. Another authority adduced by the same gentleman, allows 23 days

from Tripoly, by the way of Gwarian and Sockna, which turns out

much the same as the former result. The distance from Tripoly to

Fezzan, through Mesurata, is 24½ days; consequently that by Sockna,

is the shortest, although now generally disused, on account of its

being unsafe.[23]

The intersection of the two lines of distance from Augila and

Mesurata; that is, 395 G. miles from the former, and 289 from the

latter, place Mourzouk in latitude 27° 23′; and at 30 G. miles

east of the meridian of Mesurata. Consequently, the bearing will be

about S. ½ E, instead of south, as reported.

3. Edrisi says, that the distance from _Sort_ to Zuila, is nine

journies, which, on his scale of 19 per day, are equal to 171

G. miles: and Abulfeda says that they lie N. and S. from each

other. Zuila is a point in Horneman’s route, about 60 G. miles to

the E by N or ENE of Mourzouk: and Sort, according to M. D’Anville,

lies in about 30° 28′. Consequently, Zuila, if in the same

meridian, should be in latitude 27° 37′, or 14 min. to the N. of

Mourzouk. By the construction, Zuila bears about S 7° W from Sort,

which, in respect of the difference of latitude, is much the same

thing: and hence, Mourzouk ought not to be to the south of 27° 23′,

or thereabouts.

4. Ledyard was told, that Augila lay _west_ from Siwah; and Wadan,

(or Zala,) in the way to Fezzan, WSW from Augila. Horneman gives much

the same idea; saying that they went W by S from Augila, at setting

out. Unfortunately, Mr. Horneman omits to state the distance between

Fezzan and Tripoly, although he travelled it.

5. _Zala_, (called also _Wadan_,[24]) is said by Edrisi, page 40,

to be nine days SE from Sort; and midway between Augila and Zuila;

that is ten days from both.[25] A glance at the map will shew how

utterly improbable it is, that Mourzouk should be below the parallel

of 26°, considering its relative situation to Wadan and Zuila.

Lastly, if it be admitted that Fezzan is the country of the

_Garamantes_, (and I know not where else to look for it, according to

the ancient descriptions,) then, its distance from the sea coast, as

stated by Strabo, p. 835, at nine or ten days journey, agrees exactly,

if reckoned to _Garama_, the ancient capital. Pliny confirms it

strongly, by placing the Garamantes beyond the _Mons Ater_, (of which

more, under the article _Harutsch_,) which will be proved clearly

to mean the rocky Desert of _Souda_, between Fezzan and Mesurata.

It should be remarked, that this alteration in the position of

Mourzouk, which is about 39 miles to the SE of its position in the

map of 1798, does not, in any material degree, affect the interval

of space between it and Tombuctoo.[26]

=CHAPTER II.=

* * * * *

_General Remarks on the Countries, in the Line of Mr. Horneman’s

Route._

I shall next proceed to offer some geographical, and other, remarks,

on certain of the subjects that present themselves in and about the

line of Mr. Horneman’s route; as, 1. The _Bahr-bela-ma_, and _Valley

of Mogara_. 2. _Siwah_. 3. The _Lesser Oasis_. 4. The _Valleys_ of

_Schiacha_ and _Gegabib_. 5. _Augila_. 6. The _Harutsch_. 7. _Fezzan_

and _Gadamis_.

I. _The Bahr-bela-ma, and Valley of Mogara._

The term _Bahr_ is well known to signify (in Arabic) an expanse

of water, whether _sea_, _lake_, or _river_: and _Bahr-bela-ma_, a

hollow space that is supposed to have contained them: in other words,

the sea, lake, or river, _without water_. In its application to the

present subject, it has been understood by some great authorities,

to be the ancient bed of a river; and that river, the Nile of Egypt;

which they suppose to have quitted its present course, at Benjusef,

and, passing through the province of Faiume, and the lake Kairun,

entered the sea at the Gulf of the Arabs. Having already given an

opinion on this subject, I shall say no more concerning it in this

place, than that it is by no means weakened by any thing that has

appeared since: that opinion was, “that in _ancient times_ the

bed of the Nile lay lower than the province of Faiume:” and it is

certain, that the gap, or outlet at Sakkara, is _still_ above the

level of the Nile.

Mr. Horneman’s observations, added to those of General Andreossy,

and of Mr. Browne, throw some further light on the course of the

_hollow_ bed, or channel in question.

It appears that the General, as well as Mr. Browne,[27] came to the

Natron Valley at about 32 G. miles to the westward of Terané: and

that the General also found, adjacent to it, on the west, separated

only by a narrow ridge, a second and larger valley, which the Arabs

name _Bahr-bela-ma_; and also _Bahr-el-farigh_, which signifies

the _empty_ river. These he found to run parallel to each other,

in a direction of about NNW ½ W and SSE ½ E, for about 30 miles;

and without any appearance of termination, either way. The Natron

Valley, he reckons 2½ French leagues, or about 6½ G. miles, in

breadth; the other, 3 leagues, or 7¾ such miles; or, both together,

from one extreme to the other, more than 14¼. See the _Mémoires_,

p. 239, 240, and also the map.

Mr. Horneman, in his way westward from Cairo, passed the Natron

Valley, at the distance of about 40 G. miles from Cairo; and, by

circumstances, not more than 9 or 10 from the extreme southern part

seen by General Andreossy. At the distance of about 8 miles from the

Natron Valley he _descended_, and came to what he calls the foot of

a _sand hill_; but it being _dark_, he could not form any idea of

the place itself, or of the adjacent country: he however observes,

that it will be proper for future travellers to look in this place,

for the _course_ of the _Bahr-bela-ma_: doubtless, because he

found a deep and capacious hollow; but concerning which, he gives

no farther intimation. Adverting, therefore, to the description of

General Andreossy, I regard the _sand hill_ rather as the _ridge_

that separates the two valleys or hollows, than as the thing

Mr. Horneman took it for. He says, that they _descended_ the sand

hill, in _indescribable_ disorder;[28] which seems to imply a _long_,

as well as a _steep_ descent: and, leaving the place, before it was

light enough to form a judgment of the nature of it, he only directs

the attention of others to it: surely, because it was a hollow tract.

It may be allowed, therefore, that the Bahr-bela-ma and Natron

Valleys extend 40 or more G. miles, pointing northward to the Lake

Mareotis, or to the Gulf of the Arabs; and on the other hand, towards

the quarter of the lake of Kairun; from whence they seem to be less

than 30 miles distant.

The four hours of travelling, between the station at the Natron

Valley, and the foot of the sand hill, does not ill agree with

the ground. The breadth of the Natron Valley, 6½ G. miles, is,

reckoning the ascent on the west, equal to 3¼ hours travelling;

and General Andreossy says, that he was 40 minutes in descending the

slope, to the bottom of the Bahr-bela-ma. (Mem. p. 240.) Here then

we have made out nearly the four hours: besides, it is not certain

that the hollows may not have been crossed obliquely, by Mr. Horneman.

It appears that M. D’Anville believed the existence of, and has

expressed on his map of Egypt, a hollow or valley, extending the

whole way from the lake Kairun, to the neighbourhood of the Gulf of

the Arabs. The French, it seems, have never had an opportunity of

determining the questions; which appears extraordinary. I shall now

proceed to the description of another valley, which may possibly be

a branch of the Bahr-bela-ma.

_Valley of Mogara._

Mr. Horneman states, that the morning on which he left the _foot

of the sand hill_, he entered the Desert which may be considered

as “the natural limit of Egypt.” This Desert extends more than

150 G. miles from east to west: its extent southward, is not known,

but it probably borders on the Lesser Oasis. Whether it be a part of

that great sandy desert of twelve journies across, between the Greater

Oasis and Siwah, Mr. Horneman had no opportunity of knowing; as he

remained in uncertainty respecting the course of the _Ummesogeir_

hills, southward.

This Desert, perfectly flat, and covered with shifting sand, is

bounded northward by a chain of bare calcareous hills, running nearly

east and west, in the line of our traveller’s route. On the side

towards the Desert, they are steep, and are bordered by a remarkable

valley or hollow, known to extend from the _neighbourhood_ of the

Bahr-bela-ma, to the length of a journey of seven days westward. Its

breadth is from one mile, to six; it had much standing water in it,

at certain seasons; but when Mr. Horneman saw it (in September

1798,) it had only some small lakes or ponds, at intervals; and

in several places, tracts of marshy or swampy land, extending for

several miles together. The water of the pools was bitter; but sweet

water was found close to them, on digging to the depth of four to six

feet. (See above, p. 10.) The caravans in this route, keep along the

edge of the valley, availing themselves of its resources of water,

every two or three days; but preferring the sandy path, as being

best adapted to the feet of the camels.

How far the valley extends westwards, is not known to us: whether

it terminates at the place where Mr. Horneman ascended the hills of

Ummesogeir, (which form a continuation of the range of calcareous

hills before-mentioned;) or whether it communicates with those

valleys, which contain the Greater or Lesser Oasis. Be it as it will,

it seems to partake of the nature of those valleys; being situated

at the foot of steep calcareous hills, and below the level of the

flat Desert beneath them. It is remarked, that the steep sides of all

these ranges face the south or west.[29] In one particular, however,

this valley of Mogara, differs very widely from those which contain

the Oasis, (although it seems very much akin to that of _Schiacha_;

of which more in the sequel,) in that no water springs up to the

surface; to which cause we may probably attribute the absence of

such tracts of land, as are denominated _Oases_. The springs indeed,

appear to me, to be a characteristic feature of the Oases.

We learn a curious particular from General Andreossy, whilst speaking

of the Bahr-bela-ma. He says, (Mém. sur l’Egypte, p. 246,) that the

people of Terané on the Nile, transport from a valley situated three

days journey beyond the Bahr-bela-ma, a species of _rushes_, which are

manufactured into mats at Menouf, in the Delta. The General supposes

the place in question to be a continuation of the Bahr-bela-ma, into

the interior of Africa; and indeed it may well be, that the valley

of Mogara is a branch of the former: separating from it, at, or near,

the place where Mr. Horneman crossed it. The place alluded to by the

General, may be about _Biljoradek_, and in one of the swampy tracts

spoken of above: or if the three journies are meant from _Terané_,

as is not impossible, that it will be about _Mogara_. At all events,

we must regard this valley as the place intended by General Andreossy.

This gentleman’s description of the Bahr-bela-ma is well worthy

of attention, but is too long to be inserted here. He found in it,

petrified wood, of the same kind with that seen by Horneman, in the

adjacent sandy Desert:[30] but both of them remark, that the wood

has not any mark of a tool on it, as some have fancifully imagined,

and have thence regarded the valley as an ancient bed of the Nile,

deserted about the date of the foundation of Memphis.

No doubt the hollow in question very much resembles a water-course,

both as to form, and from its having pebbles in it; but where is the

body of fresh water that could have scooped it out, or have filled

it? General Andreossy reckons it nearly nine British miles in breadth,

and exceedingly deep; and the Nile does not at any time carry a body

of water, equal to one mile in breadth! What the state of things was,

at an earlier period of the world, we know not, but within the reach

of history, the Nile appears to have been much of the same bulk,

as at present.

But this is not the only difficulty. The province of Faiume, through

which the supposed issue of the Nile must have been, is separated

from the valley of the Nile, by a continuation of the ridge of

hills that forms the western wall of Egypt; and through which, (if

I understand the matter right,) the passage to the lake of Kairun,

by _Illahon_ and _Hawara_, has been made by art. At all events,

this canal or passage cannot be regarded as the continuation of the

ancient bed of the Nile from _Upper Egypt_ into the _Bahr-bela-ma_,

because of its confined dimensions: and of course, all idea of the

Nile having detached a _western branch_, or thrown itself into the

bed of the lake of Kairun and Bahr-bela-ma, is done away; for even

admitting the continuity of these, the hollow that contains the lake,

and also constitutes the province of Faiume, must be regarded as a

kind of _cul de sac_ to the Bahr-bela-ma, whilst the hills by Illahon

existed. And hence I took occasion to remark, elsewhere,[31] that it

is possible, that the famous work of the lake Moeris, which now forms

a kind of enigma amongst the learned, might have been formed by the

very act of cutting through a low part of the western wall of Egypt,

and letting the water into the hollow space which now contains the

lake of Kairun. But had the Nile ever formed its alluvions adjacent

to the Gulf of the Arabs, there would surely be some traces of them

remaining, either along the shore, or in the sea itself.

It may be remarked, that there are other valleys or hollows along

the course of the Nile, almost equally extensive with that of Faiume,

but to whose level the Nile is not _yet_ risen. And here it may not

be out of the way to repeat what has been said in another place,[32]

that although the Nile in these times, when swoln, flows into the

lake Kairun, yet there must have been a time, when its bed was

too low to reach it: for it cannot be doubted, that its bed has

been gradually rising, by deposition; a necessary effect of the

protrusion of the lands of the Delta into the sea: and, of course,

that it _will continue_ to rise.[33]

The progress of the moving sands of Lybia, eastward, into the

Bahr-bela-ma, &c. is treated of by General Andreossy, Mem. page

247, and is also well worthy of attention. This movement appears

to take place, very generally; and Mr. Horneman remarks, that in

their line of course, every obstruction gives rise to a sand hill;

but he more particularly remarks a smaller kind of sand hill, formed

by the obstruction of the trunks of palm trees; and so high as to

leave to the view, nothing more than the topmost branches.

II. _Siwah._

The geographical position of this remarkable place, considered

generally, cannot now be questioned; since we possess, in addition

to the information communicated by Mr. Browne, that of Mr. Horneman;

both in respect of the time employed on his way thither, and of the

reports of the natives, concerning its relative position to Cairo,

the Oases, Faiume, and Derna: and when it is considered that these

new authorities differ from the former ones, by a few minutes of

longitude only.

The report of Mr. Horneman is no less favourable to the former idea,

of its being the OASIS OF AMMON; and the remains of the Egyptian

structure within it, those of the famed Temple of Jupiter Ammon:

the honour of which original discovery is due to Mr. Browne. For,

in addition to what may be deemed the _inner_ temple, Mr. Horneman

has viewed the foundations indicated by Mr. Browne, in circumference

some hundred paces; and even some remains of the walls themselves,

of what may be supposed to have been the _including_ temple; the

materials of which are probably existing in the construction of the

stone houses of a town, estimated to contain a population of six to

seven thousand[34] persons. We need no longer to entertain a doubt,

founded on the disappearance of the materials of the temple and palace

described by the ancients. Besides, on a review of the subject, so

many particulars accord with the ancient descriptions; such as the

dimensions, and accordance of geographical situation; the fruits,

the copious fountains, fertility of soil; and finally, although a

negative proof, perhaps one of the strongest circumstances of all,

the declaration of the inhabitants, that “no other fertile spot

exists in the vicinity; or nearer than the Lesser Oasis.”

A proof of the populousness and affluence of the ancient state of

Ammon, exists in the numerous catacombs pointed out to, or visited

by, Browne and Horneman: and by the probability that the rocky hill

on which the modern town stands, is also full of catacombs. Such

are indeed known to exist within the habitations of the people

of the neighbouring village of Ummesogeir; which may thence be

supposed, notwithstanding its present miserable state, to have been

a flourishing appendage to ancient Ammon: and might probably have

been the _Siropum_ of Ptolemy.

One particular requires discussion. Mr. Horneman differs very widely

from Mr. Browne, in his estimation of the extent of the territory

of Siwah. Mr. Browne reckons it six miles by four: but Mr. Horneman

a _circumference_ of 50 miles. His words are, “a well-watered

valley of 50 miles in circuit, surrounded by naked steep rocks.”

(Abulfeda also says, that the territory is environed by hills.) Very

probably, Mr. Horneman’s idea goes to the whole space inclosed

by the hills; Mr. Browne’s to the fertile part of it only; and

it must be acknowledged, that the dimensions given by the latter,

accord with those of the ancients.

Mr. Horneman says, that _all_ the waters of the springs, are consumed

in the irrigation of the gardens and fields; so that no stream flows

_beyond_ the district. It is certain, that Edrisi describes a _river_

named _Costara_, at eight journies from Bahnasa, in the Lesser Oasis,

towards Fezzan; agreeing almost exactly with the distance to Siwah

from Cairo, fifteen days; which, at 19 G. miles, are equal to 285; and

the construction has 275. According to Mr. Horneman’s description

of the copious and numerous springs in Siwah, one of which alone,

he says, forms a considerable rivulet, and another, several rivulets,

it might be expected that some of the waters flowed to a considerable

distance before they were entirely absorbed in the sands. The Costara

river, may, however, flow from a distinct fountain in the Desert:

but the coincidence of position is remarkable.

The description of the lands of Siwah, by Mr. Horneman, and of

the Greater Oasis, by Mr. Browne, appear to be of the same nature;

each possessing copious fountains and verdant fields, fitted either

for pasture or cultivation. The lands of the Lesser Oasis are said

to be much the same, though rather inferior: whence it would seem,

that the Valley of Mogara, which has good water at the depth of four

feet, only wants that it should spring up to the surface, in order

to form it into an Oasis, like the others!

III. _The Lesser Oasis._

Mr. Horneman was told that at the distance of seven journies from

Siwah, five from Faiume, and at only a _few_ from Biljoradek,

there existed a country, similar to Siwah, and whose inhabitants,

who are less numerous, spoke the _same language_. He with reason,

concluded it to be a part of the Lesser Oasis of the ancients; and,

from its position, it ought to be the northern extremity.

If by a few days journey, when five and seven have been mentioned

before, we may understand three, or thereabouts, the place in

question, should lie in the parallel of 28° 50′; at about midway

between Cairo and Siwah;[35] and 89 G. miles to the westward of

Bahnasa, at the canal of Joseph. Hence it falls very near to Bahnasa,

in the Oasis, which has been already placed,[36] at 83 from the

forementioned place.

Ptolemy places the Lesser Oasis in lat 28° 45′: and at 75 G. miles

to the west of _Oxyrinchus_, taken for the last mentioned Bahnasa. He

no doubt meant to express some particular point in the Oasis; and

that point, probably, the principal town, which may have been on the

site of Bahnasa in the Oasis. So that there is a general agreement

between the ancient and the modern accounts of it.[37]

But Mr. Browne, when at Charje in the Greater Oasis, was

told, that the southern part of the Lesser Oasis, named by the

inhabitants _Al-wah-el-Gherbi_, was only forty miles distant to

the northward. This being the case, the Lesser Oasis should have

an extent of more than 100 miles from north to south: that is, more

than the other tract, of the same name, denominated the _Greater_;

but which may, nevertheless, be true, as the term greater or lesser,

may refer to other qualities than dimensions. Mr. Browne describes

the Greater Oasis (which he had traversed throughout) to consist

of large detached spots or islands, like Siwah, extending in a

chain from N to S, and separated by intervals of desert from two

to fourteen hours of travelling. The Lesser Oasis, most probably,

is much of the same nature; but is, by general report, inferior to

the other, and vastly inferior to Siwah. See an account of the Oases

in the Geog. of Herodotus, Sections xx. and xxi.

Mr. Browne adds, that the Lesser Oasis is a kind of capital settlement

of the Muggrebine (or western) Arabs, who pass from it, to the

western extremity of the lake Kairun; whose shore, on that side,

is also in their possession. (Pages 132, 170.)

Thus, our modern travellers have fixed, pretty satisfactorily, in

the view of general geography, the positions of all the three Oases:

but it would be more satisfactory to have correctly the latitude of

the northern extremity of the Lesser one, as well as some account

of the number and position of the _islands_ contained in it.

IV. _Valleys of Schiacha, and Gegabib._

At the distance of about three days journey to the westward of

Siwah, Mr. Horneman came to _Schiacha_, a _fruitful_ valley on the

right; and, as appears from a circumstance that occurred during the

unpleasant visit of the Siwahans, there were many little _bogs_,

in the neighbourhood of their camp, in that valley. Again, at

six hours farther, was _Torfaue_, where they also obtained fresh

water. Moreover, in the way from Siwah to Schiacha, at the distance

of 6 or 7 miles from the former, he saw at the foot of the hills,

a lake, implied to be of fresh water, (see Journal, page 57,) of

several miles in extent.

Combining with this, the remark of Mr. Horneman, that they had

travelled by a chain of hills from Siwah; that these hills were a

continuation of those which they had always seen to the _northward_ of

their route through the Desert; and that they “rose immediately from

the level ground of the Desert, without any declivity, and without

any arenacious, or other cover, only the bare rock being seen;”

one may conclude, that the valley described, at the foot of these

hills, is much of the same nature, with that of _Mogara_. Moreover,

it appears, that he considered the whole extent of the hills, from

the Bahr-bela-ma _to_ Schiacha, at least, as one continued ridge;

and which has an abrupt declivity to the south. The _continuity_,

however, remains to be proved.

The remarkable valley of _Gegabib_, famous for its dates, cannot

be far from the neighbourhood of _Schiacha_ and _Torfaue_;

since Mr. Browne says, page 26, that when he had advanced two

journies to the north-westward of Siwah, he was _not far_ from

Gegabib. Mr. Beaufoy calls it, from the description of Ben Ali, “a

narrow plain, sandy, and uninhabited, but fertile in dates;” which,

he adds, are gathered by the people of _Duna_ on the sea coast,

eight journies distant.[38] As Mr. Horneman remarked no date trees

on his way from Siwah to Augila, his route must have been wide of

this valley or plain, and no doubt to the _south_ of it. This seems

proved by Ben Ali’s description of the route from Augila to Siwah,

which lay “_across the extensive mountains of Gerdoba_,” to this

valley; since Mr. Horneman left the mountains to the northward of him,

the whole way.

As the dates of Gegabib are now gathered by the people of the sea

coast; and those of Augila in ancient times, by the _Nasamones_ of

the coast of the _Syrtis_; so the people of the _same_ coast, aided

by the modern _Augilans_, undertake expeditions ten days journey

inland from _Augila_, to _steal_ men and dates, at present![39]

So that this system of inroad, from the quarter towards the coast,

inland, seems to have been practised at all times; and I shall have

occasion to remark it again, hereafter. Augila was an inhabited

place in the time of Herodotus, and yet the dates were carried off

by strangers: and it seems the present Augilans retaliate on others,

the injuries sustained by their ancestors.

V. _Augila._

This small, but celebrated territory, is situated nearly midway

between Egypt and Fezzan; and somewhat less than 170 miles from

the nearest coast of the Mediterranean. It seems to possess much of

the character of an Oasis, being flat, well watered, fertile, and

surrounded by arid deserts, either sandy or rocky; in particular,

that to the west is so destitute of herbage, that the camels of

Mr. Horneman’s caravan, carried their provender with them. Its

extent from east to west, seems to be little more than a long

day’s journey. The agriculture of the Augilans is confined more

to gardening, than to raising of corn: but Mr. Horneman is silent

respecting the culture of dates, for which it has been so celebrated

both in ancient and modern times.[40]

It appears that the Augilans are the merchants who carry on the

commerce between Egypt and Fezzan; for which, their middle situation,

and ready communication with the port of Bengasi, qualify them. The

people of one of their most populous towns,[41] _Mojabra_, are solely

occupied with this commerce: and Mr. Horneman contrasts, in a most

unfavourable light, the character of these traders, with the people

of the other towns, whose employment is agriculture. In a few short

remarks, we are shewn, in the most pointed manner, the natural,

and almost necessary effect, of the occupations of mankind on their

moral habits. Notwithstanding the possession of this commerce,

Augila is still a very poor place indeed.

It may be remarked, that _Augila_ is one of the few places in Africa

that has preserved its ancient name entire.

VI. _The Harutsch, White and Black._

These remarkable tracts (of which see the description above, page

48 _et seq._) had been noticed by Ben Ali, to Mr. Beaufoy, who has

recorded them (in chap. x. of the Proceed. Afr. Assoc. for 1790;)

the one under the description of the rocky Desert of _black_ and

_naked rock_, of four days extant; the other, of _soft_ and _sandy_

stone, of three days extent: but they are described in a very obscure

manner, and their respective positions are transposed.

Mr. Horneman appears to have employed nearly fifty hours in crossing

the _black_ Harutsch; fourteen more in the _white_ Harutsch; or

altogether sixty-four hours, equal to eight ordinary caravan days;

which does not differ very widely from the report of Ben Ali, who

allowed _seven_.

The white Harutsch forms the extreme boundary of Fezzan, and

extends southward, into the district of the _Tibbo Rshade_; of

which more in the sequel. The black Harutsch appears to be much more

extensive. Horneman was told, that it was in breadth five journies

from east to west; (he crossed it in WSW direction;) and in length

seven, from north to south. However, Mr. Horneman justly observes,

that it must be more extensive, since he crossed a tract of the same

nature, in his way from Fezzan to Tripoly; and even from that point

it was said to extend a considerable distance to the west. He adds,

that he learnt at Mourzouk, that there were black mountains also in

the road from that place to Bornou: that is, to the south-east.

Mr. Beaufoy was also informed, (See chap. iv. Afr. Proceed. 1790,)

that a desert named _Souda_, (that is, _black_,) is crossed in the way

from Mesurata to Fezzan; agreeing with Mr. Horneman’s report. The

breadth, in a north and south direction, is given at four days, or

somewhat narrower than in Mr. Horneman’s line of route from Augila.

Mr. Horneman describes the black Harutsch to consist of matter,

that, in his idea, was volcanic, or had undergone the action of fire:

and its conformation appears very singular indeed. There exists in

Pliny, an evident proof that it was known to the Romans; for they had

crossed it, in their expeditions to Fezzan, and towards the Niger,

&c.; and had even explored and remarked the shortest route across

the same mountains.

Pliny says, that “from _Cydamus_ (i. e. _Gadamis_, which, by the

bye, he says lies opposite to _Sabrata_, on the sea coast) there

extends a mountain a long way to the east, called by the Romans,

MONS ATER; and which appears as if it were burnt or scorched by

the rays of the sun.” (Lib. v. c. 5.) And he adds, that beyond

those mountains, are deserts, and the towns of the Garamantes, which

were conquered by the Romans under Balbus. In this description, we

clearly recognise the SOUDA, or BLACK DESERT, to the north of Fezzan;

and which Mr. Horneman _saw_, both there, and to the east, of the

same country; and also _learnt_, that it _continued_ far westward,

beyond the line of the road from Fezzan to Mesurata: in other words,

towards Gadamis.

Sockna, which is a town of some consideration, lies midway between

this road and Gadamis: and it is known that the Desert of _Souda_

passes to the south of it. So that there is little doubt but that

Pliny is right, in extending the _Mons Ater_ westward to _Cydamus_,

(_i. e._ Gadamis) and to a long extent eastward of it.

VII. _Fezzan._

It has been said, that there is no material difference between the

position of the capital of this country (Mourzouk), as given by

Mr. Horneman, and the former assumed position in the maps, drawn

for the African Association, in 1790 and 1798; considered in the

view of general geography. It is for this reason, that I have not

altered it in the general Map, but have accommodated the positions

eastward to it; instead of altering the entire Map. But in the

Map of Mr. Horneman’s Route, all the positions affected by his

observations, are given according to those observations.

Neither do the boundaries and extent, as given by Mr. Horneman, differ

materially from those given by Mr. Beaufoy; which is remarkable,

considering under what disadvantage he collected his materials,

compared with the mode of collecting them on the spot. But in

arranging the boundaries, a distinction is to be made between the

_proper_ country of Fezzan, and its _dependencies_.

Mr. Horneman says, that the _cultivated_ part of Fezzan has an extent

of 300 British miles from north to south; by 200 from east to west:

which dimensions have a general agreement with Mr. Beaufoy’s,

in respect of the _area_ of _the whole_; but Mr. Beaufoy makes it a

circle, whilst Mr. Horneman makes it an oval. It would appear, also,

that Mr. Horneman reckons the whole extent thus given by himself and

Mr. Beaufoy as cultivated land; and we know too little of the actual

geography to attempt any detail. Mr. Horneman came to the eastern

border of Fezzan at 44 to 45 hours, equal to about 110 B. miles by the

road, from Mourzouk. In order to justify Mr. Horneman’s calculation,

Mourzouk ought to stand nearly in the centre, between the eastern

and western limits; but Mr. Beaufoy says, that the territory does

not extend far to the west of the capital.

Again, Mr. Beaufoy allows five days from the northern boundary,

at the edge of the black Desert, to Mourzouk: that is, about 100

B. miles by the road. And from Mourzouk southward to the mountains of

_Eyre_, the southern boundary, fourteen days; equal to 280 such miles:

total 380: or perhaps, in direct distance, 350 such miles. But there

lies in the midway, a desert of five journies in breadth; and it is

uncertain to what point Mr. Horneman reckons.

The dependencies are very extensive. The regions of the Harutsch,

together with Wadan, Houn, (or Hun), and Sockna, all of which

lie _beyond_ the Harutsch, Mr. Horneman classes as belonging to

Fezzan. Sockna should be a place of note, as its merchants are

in possession of the chief part of the commerce, between Fezzan

and Tripoly.

Mr. Horneman was informed that there are 101 inhabited _places_ in

Fezzan; and it is remarkable that this is precisely the number stated

in M. Delisle’s Map of Africa, drawn in 1707; and Mr. Beaufoy’s

informant said, little less than 100. But amongst these, there are

few places of note, and still fewer whose positions are given; and

in the report of these, Mr. Beaufoy’s informant differs in some

respect, from Mr. Horneman.

Of the position of the capital, Mourzouk, I have already spoken,

very fully.