Not far from the house as I was cantering home, I met S----, and took her

up on the saddle before me, an operation which seemed to please her better

than the vicious horse I was riding, whose various demonstrations of

dislike to the arrangement afforded my small equestrian extreme delight

and triumph. My whole afternoon was spent in shifting my bed and bed-room

furniture from a room on the ground-floor to one above; in the course of

which operation, a brisk discussion took place between M---- and my boy

Jack, who was nailing on the vallence of the bed; and whom I suddenly

heard exclaim in answer to something she had said--'Well den, I do tink

so; and dat's the speech of a man, whether um bond or free.' A very

trifling incident, and insignificant speech; and yet it came back to my

ears very often afterward--'the speech of a _man_, whether bond or free.'

They might be made conscious--some of them are evidently conscious--of an

inherent element of manhood superior to the bitter accident of slavery;

and to which, even in their degraded condition, they might be made to

refer that vital self-respect which can survive all external pressure of

mere circumstance, and give their souls to that service of God, which is

perfect freedom, in spite of the ignoble and cruel bondage of their

bodies.

My new apartment is what I should call decidedly airy; the window, unless

when styled by courtesy, shut, which means admitting of draught enough to

blow a candle out, must be wide open, being incapable of any intermediate

condition; the latch of the door, to speak the literal truth, does shut;

but it is the only part of it that does; that is, the latch and the

hinges; everywhere else its configuration is traced by a distinct line of

light and air. If what old Dr. Physic used to say be true, that a draught

which will not blow out a candle will blow out a man's life, (a Spanish

proverb originally I believe) my life is threatened with extinction in

almost every part of this new room of mine, wherein, moreover, I now

discover to my dismay, having transported every other article of bed-room

furniture to it, it is impossible to introduce the wardrobe for my

clothes. Well, our stay here is drawing to a close, and therefore these

small items of discomfort cannot afflict me much longer.

Among my visitors to-day was a poor woman named Oney, who told me her

husband had gone away from her now for four years; it seems he was the

property of Mr. K----, and when that gentleman went to slave-driving on

his own account, and ceased to be the overseer of this estate, he carried

her better half, who was his chattel, away with him, and she never expects

to see him again. After her departure I had a most curious visitor, a

young lad of the name of Renty, whose very decidedly mulatto tinge

accounted, I suppose, for the peculiar disinvoltura of his carriage and

manner; he was evidently in his own opinion a very superior creature; and

yet, as his conversation with me testified, he was conscious of some flaw

in the honour of his 'yellow' complexion. 'Who is your mother, Renty?'

said I (I give you our exact dialogue); 'Betty, head-man Frank's wife.' I

was rather dismayed at the promptness of this reply, and hesitated a

little at my next question, 'Who is your father?' My sprightly young

friend, however, answered, without an instant's pause, 'Mr. K----.' Here I

came to a halt, and, willing to suggest some doubt to the lad, because for

many peculiar reasons this statement seemed to me shocking, I said, 'What,

old Mr. K----?' 'No, massa R----.' 'Did your mother tell you so?' 'No,

missis, me ashamed to ask her; Mr. C----'s children told me so, and I

'spect they know it.' Renty, you see, did not take Falconbridge's view of

such matters; and as I was by no means sorry to find that he considered

his relation to Mr. K---- a disgrace to his mother, which is an advance in

moral perception not often met with here, I said no more upon the subject.

_Tuesday, March 3._--This morning, old House Molly, coming from Mr.

G----'s upon some errand to me, I asked her if Renty's statement was true;

she confirmed the whole story, and, moreover, added that this connection

took place after Betty was married to head-man Frank. Now, he, you know,

E----, is the chief man at the Rice Island, second in authority to Mr.

O----, and indeed, for a considerable part of the year, absolute master

and guardian during the night, of all the people and property at the rice

plantation, for, after the early spring, the white overseer himself is

obliged to betake himself to the mainland to sleep, out of the influence

of the deadly malaria of the rice swamp, and Frank remains sole sovereign

of the island, from sunset to sunrise, in short, during the whole period

of his absence. Mr. ---- bestowed the highest commendations upon his

fidelity and intelligence, and, during the visit Mr. R---- K---- paid us

at the island, he was emphatic in his praise of both Frank and his wife,

the latter having, as he declared, by way of climax to his eulogies, quite

the principles of a white woman. Perhaps she imbibed them from his

excellent influence over her. Frank is a serious, sad, sober-looking, very

intelligent man; I should think he would not relish having his wife

borrowed from him even by the white gentleman, who admired her principles

so much; and it is quite clear from poor Renty's speech about his mother,

that by some of these people (and if by any, then very certainly by

Frank), the disgrace of such an injury is felt and appreciated much after

the fashion of white men.

This old woman Molly is a wonderfully intelligent, active, energetic

creature, though considerably over seventy years old; she was talking to

me about her former master, Major ----, and what she was pleased to call

the _revelation_ war (i.e. revolution war), during which that gentleman,

having embraced the side of the rebellious colonies in their struggle

against England, was by no means on a bed of roses. He bore King George's

commission, and was a major in the British army, but having married a

great Carolina heiress, and become proprietor of these plantations, sided

with the country of his adoption, and not that of his birth, in the war

between them, and was a special object of animosity on that account to the

English officers who attacked the sea-board of Georgia, and sent troops on

shore and up the Altamaha, to fetch off the negroes, or incite them to

rise against their owners. 'De British,' said Molly 'make old massa run

about bery much in de great revelation war.' He ran effectually, however,

and contrived to save both his life and property from the invader.

Molly's account was full of interest, in spite of the grotesque lingo in

which it was delivered, and which once or twice nearly sent me into

convulsions of laughing, whereupon she apologized with great gravity for

her mispronunciation, modestly suggesting that _white words_ were

impossible to the organs of speech of black folks. It is curious how

universally any theory, no matter how absurd, is accepted by these people,

for anything in which the contemptuous supremacy of the dominant race is

admitted, and their acquiescence in the theory of their own incorrigible

baseness is so complete, that this, more than any other circumstance in

their condition, makes me doubtful of their rising from it.

In order to set poor dear old Molly's notions straight with regard to the

negro incapacity for speaking plain the noble white words, I called

S---- to me and set her talking; and having pointed out to Molly how very

imperfect her mode of pronouncing many words was, convinced the worthy old

negress that want of training, and not any absolute original impotence,

was the reason why she disfigured the _white words_, for which she had

such a profound respect. In this matter, as in every other, the slaves pay

back to their masters the evil of their own dealings with usury, though

unintentionally. No culture, however slight, simple, or elementary, is

permitted to these poor creatures, and the utterance of many of them is

more like what Prospero describes Caliban's to have been, than the speech

of men and women in a Christian and civilised land: the children of their

owners, brought up among them, acquire their negro mode of

talking;--slavish speech surely it is--and it is distinctly perceptible in

the utterances of all southerners, particularly of the women, whose

avocations, taking them less from home, are less favourable to their

throwing off this ignoble trick of pronunciation, than the more varied

occupation, and the more extended and promiscuous business relations of

men. The Yankee twang of the regular down Easter is not more easily

detected by any ear, nice in enunciation and accent, than the thick negro

speech of the southerners: neither is lovely or melodious; but though the

Puritan snuffle is the harsher of the two, the slave _slobber_ of the

language is the more ignoble, in spite of the softer voices of the pretty

southern women who utter it.

I rode out to-day upon Miss Kate again, with Jack for my esquire. I made

various vain attempts to ride through the woods, following the cattle

tracks; they turned round and round into each other, or led out into the

sandy pine barren, the eternal frame in which all nature is set here, the

inevitable limit to the prospect, turn landward which way you will. The

wood paths which I followed between evergreen thickets, though little

satisfactory in their ultimate result, were really more beautiful than the

most perfect arrangement of artificial planting that I ever saw in an

English park; and I thought if I could transplant the region which I was

riding through bodily into the midst of some great nobleman's possessions

on the other side of the water, how beautiful an accession it would be

thought to them. I was particularly struck with the elegant growth of a

profuse wild shrub I passed several times to-day, the leaves of which were

pale green underneath, and a deep red, varnished brown above.

I must give you an idea of the sort of service one is liable to obtain

from one's most intelligent and civilised servants hereabouts, and the

consequent comfort and luxury of one's daily existence. Yesterday,

Aleck, the youth who fulfils the duties of what you call a waiter, and

we in England a footman, gave me a salad for dinner, mixed with so large

a portion of the soil in which it had grown, that I requested him to-day

to be kind enough to wash the lettuce before he brought it to table.

M---- later in the day told me that he had applied to her very urgently

for soap and a brush 'as missis wished de lettuce scrubbed,' a fate from

which my second salad was saved by her refusal of these desired

articles, and further instructions upon the subject.

* * * * *

Dearest E----. I have been long promising poor old House Molly to visit

her in her own cabin, and so the day before yesterday I walked round the

settlement to her dwelling; and a most wretched hovel I found it. She has

often told me of the special directions left by her old master for the

comfort and well-being of her old age; and certainly his charge has been

but little heeded by his heirs, for the poor faithful old slave is most

miserably off in her infirm years. She made no complaint, however, but

seemed overjoyed at my coming to see her. She took me to the hut of her

brother, Old Jacob, where the same wretched absence of every decency and

every comfort prevailed; but neither of them seemed to think the condition

that appeared so wretched to me one of peculiar hardship--though Molly's

former residence in her master's house might reasonably have made her

discontented with the lot of absolute privation to which she was now

turned over--but, for the moment, my visit seemed to compensate for all

sublunary sorrows, and she and poor old Jacob kept up a duet of rejoicing

at my advent, and that I had brought 'de little missis among um people

afore they die.'

Leaving them, I went on to the house of Jacob's daughter Hannah, with whom

Psyche, the heroine of the Rice Island story, and wife of his son Joe,

lives. I found their cabin as tidy and comfortable as it could be made,

and their children, as usual, neat and clean; they are capital women, both

of them, with an innate love of cleanliness and order most uncommon among

these people. On my way home, I overtook two of my daily suppliants, who

were going to the house in search of me, and meat, flannel, rice, and

sugar, as the case might be; they were both old and infirm-looking women,

and one of them, called Scylla, was extremely lame, which she accounted

for by an accident she had met with while carrying a heavy weight of rice

on her head; she had fallen on a sharp stake, or snag, as she called it,

and had never recovered the injury she had received. She complained also

of falling of the womb. Her companion (who was not Charybdis however, but

Phoebe) was a cheery soul who complained of nothing, but begged for

flannel. I asked her about her family and children; she had no children

left, nothing but grandchildren; she had had nine children, and seven of

them died quite young; the only two who grew up left her to join the

British when they invaded Georgia in the last war, and their children,

whom they left behind, were all her family now.

In the afternoon, I made my first visit to the hospital of the estate, and

found it, as indeed I find everything else here, in a far worse state even

than the wretched establishments on the Rice Island, dignified by that

name; so miserable a place for the purpose to which it was dedicated I

could not have imagined on a property belonging to Christian owners. The

floor (which was not boarded, but merely the damp hard earth itself,) was

strewn with wretched women, who, but for their moans of pain and uneasy

restless motions, might very well have each been taken for a mere heap of

filthy rags; the chimney refusing passage to the smoke from the pine wood

fire, it puffed out in clouds through the room, where it circled and hung,

only gradually oozing away through the windows, which were so far well

adapted to the purpose that there was not a single whole pane of glass in

them. My eyes, unaccustomed to the turbid atmosphere, smarted and watered,

and refused to distinguish at first the different dismal forms, from which

cries and wails assailed me in every corner of the place. By degrees I was

able to endure for a few minutes what they were condemned to live their

hours and days of suffering and sickness through; and, having given what

comfort kind words and promises of help in more substantial forms could

convey, I went on to what seemed a yet more wretched abode of

wretchedness. This was a room where there was no fire because there was no

chimney, and where the holes made for windows had no panes or glasses in

them. The shutters being closed, the place was so dark that, on first

entering it, I was afraid to stir lest I should fall over some of the

deplorable creatures extended upon the floor. As soon as they perceived

me, one cry of 'Oh missis!' rang through the darkness; and it really

seemed to me as if I was never to exhaust the pity and amazement and

disgust which this receptacle of suffering humanity was to excite in me.

The poor dingy supplicating sleepers upraised themselves as I cautiously

advanced among them; those who could not rear their bodies from the earth

held up piteous beseeching hands, and as I passed from one to the other, I

felt more than one imploring clasp laid upon my dress to solicit my

attention to some new form of misery. One poor woman, called Tressa, who

was unable to speak above a whisper from utter weakness and exhaustion,

told me she had had nine children, was suffering from incessant flooding,

and felt 'as if her back would split open.' There she lay, a mass of

filthy tatters, without so much as a blanket under or over her, on the

bare earth in this chilly darkness. I promised them help and comfort, beds

and blankets, and light and fire--that is, I promised to ask Mr. ---- for

all this for them; and, in the very act of doing so, I remembered with a

sudden pang of anguish, that I was to urge no more petitions for his

slaves to their master. I groped my way out, and emerging on the piazza,

all the choking tears and sobs I had controlled broke forth, and I leaned

there crying over the lot of these unfortunates, till I heard a feeble

voice of 'Missis, you no cry; missis, what for you cry?' and looking up,

saw that I had not yet done with this intolerable infliction. A poor

crippled old man, lying in the corner of the piazza, unable even to crawl

towards me, had uttered this word of consolation, and by his side

(apparently too idiotic, as he was too impotent, to move,) sat a young

woman, the expression of whose face was the most suffering and at the same

time the most horribly repulsive I ever saw. I found she was, as I

supposed, half-witted; and on coming nearer to enquire into her ailments

and what I could do for her, found her suffering from that horrible

disease--I believe some form of scrofula--to which the negroes are

subject, which attacks and eats away the joints of their hands and

fingers--a more hideous and loathsome object I never beheld; her name was

Patty, and she was grand-daughter to the old crippled creature by whose

side she was squatting.

I wandered home, stumbling with crying as I went, and feeling so utterly

miserable that I really hardly saw where I was going, for I as nearly as

possible fell over a great heap of oyster shells left in the middle of the

path. This is a horrid nuisance, which results from an indulgence which

the people here have and value highly; the waters round the island are

prolific in shell fish, oysters, and the most magnificent prawns I ever

saw. The former are a considerable article of the people's diet, and the

shells are allowed to accumulate, as they are used in the composition of

which their huts are built, and which is a sort of combination of mud and

broken oyster shells, which forms an agglomeration of a kind very solid

and durable for such building purposes. But instead of being all carried

to some specified place out of the way, these great heaps of oyster shells

are allowed to be piled up anywhere and everywhere, forming the most

unsightly obstructions in every direction. Of course, the cultivation of

order for the sake of its own seemliness and beauty is not likely to be an

element of slave existence; and as masters have been scarce on this

plantation for many years now, a mere unsightliness is not a matter likely

to trouble anybody much; but after my imminent overthrow by one of these

disorderly heaps of refuse, I think I may make bold to request that the

paths along which I am likely to take my daily walks may be kept free from

them.

On my arrival at home--at the house--I cannot call any place here my

home!--I found Renty waiting to exhibit to me an extremely neatly made

leather pouch, which he has made by my order, of fitting size and

dimensions, to receive Jack's hatchet and saw. Jack and I have set up a

sort of Sir Walter and Tom Purdie companionship of clearing and cutting

paths through the woods nearest to the house; thinning the overhanging

branches, clearing the small evergreen thickets which here and there close

over and across the grassy track. To me this occupation was especially

delightful until quite lately, since the weather began to be rather warmer

and the snakes to slide about. Jack has contrived to inoculate me with

some portion of his terror of them; but I have still a daily hankering

after the lovely green wood walks; perhaps when once I have seen a live

rattlesnake my enthusiasm for them will be modified to the degree that his

is.

* * * * *

Dear E----. This letter has remained unfinished, and my journal

interrupted for more than a week. Mr. ---- has been quite unwell, and I

have been travelling to and fro daily between Hampton and the Rice Island

in the long boat to visit him; for the last three days I have remained at

the latter place, and only returned here this morning early. My daily

voyages up and down the river have introduced me to a great variety of new

musical performances of our boatmen, who invariably, when the rowing is

not too hard, moving up or down with the tide, accompany the stroke of

their oars with the sound of their voices. I told you formerly that I

thought I could trace distinctly some popular national melody with which

I was familiar in almost all their songs; but I have been quite at a loss

to discover any such foundation for many that I have heard lately, and

which have appeared to me extraordinarily wild and unaccountable. The way

in which the chorus strikes in with the burthen, between each phrase of

the melody chanted by a single voice, is very curious and effective,

especially with the rhythm of the rowlocks for accompaniment. The high

voices all in unison, and the admirable time and true accent with which

their responses are made, always make me wish that some great musical

composer could hear these semi-savage performances. With a very little

skilful adaptation and instrumentation, I think one or two barbaric chants

and choruses might be evoked from them that would make the fortune of an

opera.

The only exception that I have met with, yet among our boat voices to the

high tenor which they seem all to possess is in the person of an

individual named Isaac, a basso profondo of the deepest dye, who

nevertheless never attempts to produce with his different register any

different effects in the chorus by venturing a second, but sings like the

rest in unison, perfect unison, of both time and tune. By-the-by, this

individual _does_ speak, and therefore I presume he is not an ape,

ourang-outang, chimpanzee, or gorilla; but I could not, I confess, have

conceived it possible that the presence of articulate sounds, and the

absence of an articulate tail, should make, externally at least, so

completely the only appreciable difference between a man and a monkey, as

they appear to do in this individual 'black brother.' Such stupendous long

thin hands, and long flat feet, I did never see off a large quadruped of

the ape species. But, as I said before, Isaac _speaks_, and I am much

comforted thereby.

You cannot think (to return to the songs of my boatmen) how strange some

of their words are: in one, they repeatedly chanted the 'sentiment' that

'God made man, and man makes'--what do you think?--'money!' Is not that a

peculiar poetical proposition? Another ditty to which they frequently

treat me they call Caesar's song; it is an extremely spirited war-song,

beginning 'The trumpets blow, the bugles sound--Oh, stand your ground!' It

has puzzled me not a little to determine in my own mind whether this title

of Caesar's song has any reference to the great Julius, and if so what may

be the negro notion of him, and whence and how derived. One of their songs

displeased me not a little, for it embodied the opinion that 'twenty-six

black girls not make mulatto yellow girl;' and as I told them I did not

like it, they have omitted it since. This desperate tendency to despise

and undervalue their own race and colour, which is one of the very worst

results of their abject condition, is intolerable to me.

While rowing up and down the broad waters of the Altamaha to the music of

these curious chants, I have been reading Mr. Moore's speech about the

abolition of slavery in the district of Columbia; and I confess I think

his the only defensible position yet taken, and the only consistent

argument yet used in any of the speeches I have hitherto seen upon the

subject.

I have now settled down at Hampton again; Mr. ---- is quite recovered, and

is coming down here in a day or two for change of air; it is getting too

late for him to stay on the rice plantation even in the day, I think. You

cannot imagine anything so exquisite as the perfect curtains of yellow

jasmine with which this whole island is draped; and as the boat comes

sweeping down towards the point, the fragrance from the thickets hung with

their golden garlands greets one before one can distinguish them; it is

really enchanting.

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