BY MRS. ELLEN H. RICHARDS,

_Of the Massachusetts Institute of Technology_.

The flavor of the cocoa-bean seems to be almost universally liked,

and the use of the various preparations made from it is constantly

increasing. From the sweet chocolate with which the traveller now

provides himself in all journeys in which the supply of food is

doubtful either in quantity or quality, to delicate coloring and

flavoring of cakes and ices, nearly all kinds of culinary preparations

have benefited by the abundance of this favorite substance.

In these forms, chocolate is used in a semi-raw state, the bean having

been simply roasted at a gentle heat, ground, and mixed with sugar,

which holds the fat. By varying the quantity of the chocolate to be

mixed with the ingredients of the cake or ice, an unlimited variety of

flavors can be obtained.

In preparing it as a beverage for the table a mistake has been

frequently made in considering chocolate merely as a flavor, an adjunct

to the rest of the meal, instead of giving it its due prominence as a

real food, containing all of the necessary nutritive principles. A cup

of chocolate made with sugar and milk is in itself a fair breakfast.

There is much to be said in favor of preparations of the whole bean

which secure all of the valuable nutrition contained in this “food

for the gods,” and rightly understood, it is possible to make them

more important articles of diet than they now are. But since the large

percentage of fat seems to require correspondingly large quantities of

sugar to render the beverage palatable, and this very rich, sweet drink

soon cloys if made strong enough to be nutritious, it is, fortunately,

possible to extract the larger part of the fat without injury to the

flavor so characteristic of chocolate. In this form, called cocoa, less

sugar and more milk are needed, and the resulting beverage suits even

delicate stomachs, and is yet of high food value.

It is the object of all cooking to render raw material more palatable

and more nutritious, and therefore more digestible. The cooking

of cocoa and chocolate is no exception to this rule. Certain

extractive principles are soluble only in water which has reached the

boiling-point; and the starch, which the seed contains, is swollen only

at this temperature.

Chocolate or cocoa is not properly cooked by having boiling water

poured over it. It is true that as the whole powder is in suspension

and is swallowed, its food material can be assimilated as it is when

the prepared chocolate is eaten raw; but in order to bring out the

full, fine flavor and to secure the most complete digestibility, the

preparation, whatever it be, should be subjected to the boiling-point

for a few minutes. In this all connoisseurs are agreed.

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