V.

SOME PHYSIOLOGICAL ASPECTS OF CHOCOLATE-SEEDS.--VALUE OF CHOCOLATE AS

AN ARTICLE OF FOOD.

The seeds of plants contain a germ, or embryo, together with a certain

amount of food. As soon as the germ sprouts, the food, or a good part

of it, is consumed by the seedling, being used by it in the formation

of new parts, such as roots and leaves by which the materials for more

food can be obtained from the soil and air. Now it happens that the

food of plants is pretty much the same as the food of animals, although

there is this marked difference in the manner of procuring it: plants

can construct their own food from inorganic or mineral matters taken

from the earth and atmosphere, while animals, even those which are most

like plants, must have their supply of food from organic nature.

Since, then, plants prepare the food which animals are to use (of

course flesh-eating animals use their plants, so to speak, at

second-hand), it comes to pass very naturally that the food in a good

many seeds has been recognized from early times as very useful food

for man. Thus the cereals--wheat, maize, oats, barley, and rice--are

the seeds of grasses; and there are many other seeds, such as beans,

peas, buckwheat, and so on, which have been appropriated as food by man

from remote antiquity. But the seeds of some plants are unfit for human

food, owing to disagreeable properties which they possess; while there

are a few which stand on the very edge of the limit of foods, and have

been used in time of scarcity.

The seeds of at least two plants are used as important adjuncts to

our list of foods, and can be enumerated among foods without any

impropriety. These are coffee and cocoa. They contain nutritive

properties,--the latter in very much higher degree than the

former,--and they possess also peculiar constituents which entitle them

to rank as luxuries. These peculiar constituents are (1) flavoring

matters, and (2) an active principle. But, either from its constitution

or from its association in the seed, the active principle of coffee,

although it has nearly or quite the same ultimate composition as the

active principle of cocoa, is unlike it in its effects. The active

principle of cocoa is substantially free, as used in its preparations,

from any undesirable effects on the nervous system. This active

principle of cocoa is _Theobromine_.

The essentials of a perfect food are (1) a certain amount of

carbohydrates, (2) of albuminoids, and (3) certain mineral matters,

these latter being substantially the same in all seeds used as

food. In cocoa these three groups are combined in proper proportion

to constitute a complete food, but there is superadded the active

principle, _Theobromine_, which places it at once in the class of

luxuries as well as of necessary foods.

When cocoa-seeds are prepared properly for food, without doing violence

to the chemical relations of the different components, a comforting

nutritive article of the highest value is obtained. This ideal method

of preparation is not a chemical torturing by the addition of foreign

ingredients, as in the alkali process, but it consists in the complete

unlocking, by perfectly natural, mechanical means, of all the virtues

of the seeds. We do not try to render the albuminoids of wheat and

other grains soluble by means of ammonia, soda, or potash, nor do we

think it desirable to increase the solubility of the albuminoids of

egg and meat by adding caustic or carbonated alkalies to them before

they are used. And yet chemical processes analogous to these have been

devised and are sometimes used with regard to cocoa. In most cases

these added substances are detected in the increased amount of mineral

matters found in the ash after burning the preparation. The amount of

ash in pure cocoa is about four per cent. Any appreciable amount above

this may be attributed to the admixture of mineral matters used in the

preparation.

The oil in pure chocolate-seeds is about fifty per cent of the whole

weight. Although the oil is exceedingly bland and free from rancidity,

it has been found expedient in some cases to withdraw a part of this

oil, leaving a smaller amount in the product. This is the method

pursued in the manufacture of the powdered cocoas. With this reduction

in the quantity of oil, the resultant beverage is less likely to

disagree with delicate digestion.

It is in all cases of the first importance to obtain only pure cocoa of

the highest quality, free from any admixture of foreign matter, such as

the alkalies or their carbonates; and further, the product ought to be

of the greatest degree of fineness. With regard to the flavors added

to chocolate, it is perhaps needless to say that they should be of the

utmost degree of purity. This is especially true of vanilla, which

owing to its high cost is frequently replaced by artificial flavors.

There is, in one respect, a notable difference between sweet chocolate

and cocoa: the former may be flavored, the latter should never be. A

pure cocoa must be absolutely dependent on its own delicious, natural

odor and flavor. No addition of any substance of any kind is admissible.

SUGGESTIONS

RELATIVE TO

THE COOKING OF CHOCOLATE AND COCOA.

The chocolate-plant (Theobroma cacao) and its products · 第 19 / 32 题