The light division reviewed by the Commander-in-chief—Reinforcements
from England—The army again in motion—Encampment of the light
division between Rodrigo and Salamanca—The German hussars—March
to Salamanca, the French retreating—Scene in the Cathedral at
Salamanca—Crossing the Tormes, and progress of the march—Passage
of the Esla—Affair at Toro with the French heavy
horse—Concentration of the whole army, and march through Valencia
towards Burgos—An accommodating priest—Capture of French baggage
and prisoners—Details of the battle of Vittoria.
Early in May, 1813, the light division, commanded by Major-Gen. Baron
C. Alten, formed line in the plain, near Gallegos, with one regiment of
the German hussars, and a brigade of horse artillery, for the purpose
of passing in review before the Marquis of Wellington, who appeared on
the ground encircled by a numerous and brilliant staff.
During the winter we had remained cantoned by regiments on the Spanish
frontier, on the left of the Agueda, in the different villages,
during which period we, us well as the whole army, had received
various reinforcements from England, the greater proportion of whom
had continued in their quarters in Portugal, and near Coria, in
Estremadura. The 10th, 15th, and 18th hussars had recently landed at
Lisbon, and also the household brigade, consisting of two regiments of
Life Guards and the Royal Horse Guards. Every effort had been made by
the General-in-chief to make the infantry as effective as possible, and
the great depôt was removed from _Belem_ to _Santarem_. Previously to
our advance, the great coats belonging to the soldiers were delivered
into store, it being considered that the blanket was a sufficient
covering for them at night, the more particularly as tents were served
out for the use of the whole army, in the proportion of three to
each company, to be carried by the mules that had formerly conveyed
the iron camp-kettles for cooking;[44] instead of which a light tin
kettle, between every six men, was substituted, to be strapped on
their knapsacks, and carried alternately on the march. Each man was
provided with a reasonable supply of necessaries, including three pairs
of shoes, and an extra pair of soles and heels, in his knapsack. The
daily allowance of rations for soldiers and officers consisted of one
pound of beef, one of biscuit, and a small allowance of rum or wine;
the former was invariably preferred by the old soldiers, although
frequently much adulterated by the mischievous _capitras_.[45]
The left of the army being already in motion from the interior of
Portugal, the second and light divisions concentrated on the 20th of
May; the former crossed the Sierra de Gata, near Baños, the following
morning, which brought it in communication with our right; our
division forded to the right bank of the Agueda the same day, and
encamped on the skirts of the extensive forest situated between Rodrigo
and Salamanca. The German hussars rode up, smoking their pipes, and
singing some delightful airs, their half squadrons at intervals joining
in chorus. We had heard that the hussar brigade was to supersede these
veterans, and to act with our division: the whole of us left our
canvas, and lined the road to greet our old friends and companions of
out-post duty. The hussars became so much affected by our cheering,
that tears rolled down many of their bronzed faces. "Oh!" said they,
"we are always glad to see the old _lighty division_, who will ever
live in our hearts."
On the third day we had arrived near San Muñoz, and encamped on the
river Helebra. Many of the forest trees were covered with beautiful
blossoms, and the plumaged tribe hopped from branch to bough, while
here and there a solitary skeleton lay bleached, and reminded us
of those starved, drenched, and wounded victims, the recollection
of whose cries for help still rang in our ears, as we had marched
past them on our retreat from Burgos and Madrid the previous winter.
Now, how changed the scene! the inmost recesses of this extensive
wood resounded with many voices, and a long line of animated troops
continued to thread its mazes and winding roads. On this day the
household brigade of cavalry came up; their horses' backs were in a
very bad state, owing to the heat of the weather. In the evening, while
sitting at our tent-door, we observed one of the Germans making up his
fat horse for the night, and afterwards employing himself in sharpening
his sabre with a stone. "That man," remarked an officer, "seems to be
preparing for single combat."
Early on the 26th we halted on the verge of the wood, within a short
distance of Salamanca; our cavalry and some guns pushed onwards,
and crossed to the right bank of the Tormes by two fords above the
town, where they found three thousand French infantry preparing to
retrograde. Our cavalry made a demonstration to charge them, but the
enemy presented so firm a front, and then retired in such good order,
that it was thought advisable not to attempt to break them, until a
few discharges of artillery should have shaken the resolution of these
veterans: which that course failed to accomplish. They at length formed
a junction with a part of the French troops retiring from Alba de
Tormes.
Our dragoons were then drawn off, and the enemy continued to retreat
without farther molestation. In the afternoon our division moved
forward, and took up their ground in a wood immediately overlooking the
left bank of the Tonnes, a league below Salamanca.
The next morning, as there had not been any order for the troops to
move, I mounted my horse, and, in company with some other officers,
rode into Salamanca. The inhabitants expressed their congratulations on
seeing us again, although our reception was not of that warm character
shown towards us in the preceding summer; and, indeed, it would have
been out of all reason to expect to find countenances decked with joy,
when contending armies had trampled down and destroyed their corn over
a fertile plain of many leagues in extent.
On entering the great square, we observed the principal inhabitants,
full-dressed, flocking towards the cathedral, a very handsome stone
structure, where we alighted, and, following the crowd through the
grand entrance, found a great multitude waiting the arrival of the
Marquis of Wellington, who soon entered, escorted by a numerous
retinue of Spanish generals and other staff officers, in a variety
of uniforms magnificently embroidered. I was much struck with the
simplicity of the Marquis of Wellington's attire, who wore a very
light grey pelisse coat, single-breasted, without a sash, and a white
neck-handkerchief, with his sword buckled round his waist, underneath
the coat, the hilt merely protruding, and a cocked-hat under his arm.
He stood with his face towards the altar during the prayer offered up
for the success of our arms in the approaching struggle, (for during
this time the divisions of our centre were branching off and marching
over dusty plains towards Miranda de Douro, to support the extreme
left, under General Sir T. Graham, which had crossed to the right bank
of the Douro, east of Lamego, had passed through the defiles of Tras
os Montes, and was marching on the right of that river through Leon,
towards Carvajales and Tabara, to outflank the enemy;) the deep-toned
organ played some fine pieces during the ceremony; and at the
conclusion, the ladies, by way of a benediction, dipped their delicate
fingers into a marble basin at the door, _and sprinkled us with holy
water_.
At daylight on the 28th, we forded the Tormes, and continued a forward
movement along a winding road, through a rich valley compassing the
base of a hill, on the summit of which stood a number of videttes
belonging to the household brigade; and although the men and horses
looked gigantic, and bore a fine appearance, still the idea of out-post
duty for the heavy cavalry caused much merriment in the ranks. At
the expiration of a long march, we encamped in the vicinity of Aldea
de Figueras, on the high road to Toro, where we halted four days; the
second division, under General Hill, besides Portuguese and Spanish
auxiliaries, were encamped half a league to our right, for the purpose
of keeping in check and watching the movements of the enemy stationed
on the right of the Douro, and also at Polios and Ruêda, situated about
two leagues from Tor-de-Sillas, on the left bank of the river, where
the French still remained in some force, hovering on our right flank.
Under all these circumstances, it became necessary to be vigilant,
as the left and centre of the army were now moving to pass the river
Esla, under the immediate orders of the General-in-chief, who had left
Salamanca to join them, and to superintend this delicate movement in
person, which he had caused to be executed for the purpose of turning
the enemy's right, and to threaten his northern line of communications.
Owing to this manœuvre, the French army was thrown on two sides of a
square, and only possessed the chance of extending a line on the Esla,
by throwing their left forward against General Hill at the moment
when he was separated from the bulk of our army; (thereby making
Madrid the base of their operations). However, _El Rey Joseph_ had
not concentrated his army, and showed no inclination to keep open his
communication with that capital; and therefore he gave up the line of
the Esla and the Douro without a blow.
The passage of the Esla having been effected on the 31st, without
opposition, the Marquis of Wellington moved on Toro, where he arrived
on the 2nd of June, and the hussar brigade fell in with a strong body
of the enemy's heavy horse between that town and Morales, where they
overthrew the French, after a very vigorous charge, and made upwards
of two hundred prisoners. Our division on this day made a forced
march over a bare country, halted to cook during the heat of the day,
then resumed its movement, and reached the vicinity of Toro in the
evening, where we encamped among some luxuriant, well-watered vegetable
gardens on the left bank of the Douro, the sight of which proved very
refreshing after a long, sultry, and weary march; and it was most
gratifying to observe with what zest and relish the officers and
soldiers devoured the raw cabbages, onions, and melons.
The next morning our division crossed the fine stone bridge. The centre
arch of it had been blown up and entirely destroyed. The soldiers,
therefore, in the first instance, descended by ladders placed close
together, communicating by planks thrown across to the steps of the
opposite ladders, by which the men again ascended, thereby surmounting
the obstacle with little difficulty, and then marching through Toro,
which is situated on high ground on the right bank of the river, and
commands a fine prospect for some leagues over the surrounding country.
The artillery and baggage forded one hundred yards above the bridge,
without difficulty; the water being only knee-deep at this season of
the year. We encamped half a league from the town. In the afternoon
I walked in to see the prisoners who had been taken by the English
hussars on the previous day, all of whom bore a very martial
appearance, and many of their countenances were so covered with hair,
that it was difficult to distinguish their features: one man, in
particular, had a long red beard which reached down to his middle; he
wore a brass helmet, surmounted with tiger's skin, with a bunch of
horse hair hanging down his back from the casque. One hundred of these
French dragoons, who had not been wounded, were assembled to march
to the rear. Their officer maintained a profound silence, and looked
angry and highly indignant, with a large stick over his shoulder,
stuck through the middle of a four-pound Spanish loaf. The whole of
the captured, raw-boned horses, were huddled together in a court-yard,
and bore evident marks of bad provender, escort duties, marches, and
countermarches; and nearly the whole of them had the most horrible sore
backs, almost frying in the sun, while innumerable flies settled on and
irritated the poor animals. A number of English medical officers were
busily employed dressing the wounds of the French cavalry; some of them
were of a most shocking description, from sabre cuts on their heads and
faces. A Frenchman, of enormous stature, lay extended with a dreadful
thrust from a pike, which had been inflicted by a cruel Guerilla, some
hours after he had surrendered himself a prisoner. A medical officer
was on his knees trying to bleed him, and held his wrist, moving his
arm gently, having made an incision in hopes of causing the blood to
flow; but every effort to save his life was useless; the dying soldier
nodded thanks to the doctor, and soon after expired.
On the 4th, the whole army being concentrated[46], it moved in three
columns, the centre in the direction of Palencia. The country was
beautifully diversified, studded with castles of Moorish architecture,
realizing the descriptions given in the chivalric days of Ferdinand
and Isabella. The sun shone brilliantly, the sky was of heavenly blue,
and clouds of dust marked the line of march of glittering columns.
The joyous peasantry hailed our approach, and came dancing towards
us, singing and beating time on their small tambourines; and, when we
were passing through the principal street of Palencia, the nuns, from
the upper windows of a convent, showered down rose-leaves on our dusty
heads, and the inhabitants declared, by way of compliment, that the
Oxford Blues were nearly as fine as the Spanish royal horse guards. Our
division took up their ground close to the town, and on the exact spot
where the French had bivouacked the same morning.
Continuing our advance towards Burgos on the 12th, the right of our
army made a demonstration to attack the enemy, who had taken post
there, while our division brought up its left shoulder, and hovered,
with the hussar-brigade, on their right flank; the left of our army
halted, until the effect of this movement was ascertained, by which
the enemy were again thrown on two sides of a square. The day was
remarkably cold and cloudy.
Towards morning on the 13th, we heard a great noise, which we
considered distant thunder, but it was soon known that the enemy had
blown up part of the works of the Castle of Burgos, and had retreated.
The left of our army was now pushed on in echelon, to turn by a flank
movement the line of the Ebro, while our right and centre hung on the
enemy's rear, ready to engage them in support of this movement. The
country here was extremely wild and mountainous[47].
On the 15th we descended by a narrow pass, about a league in extent,
which had the appearance of being scarped; the road was extremely
rugged, and, winding suddenly, we found ourselves in the valley of the
Ebro, which extended some distance to our right. The beauty of the
scenery was far beyond description, and the rocks rose perpendicularly
on every side, without any visible opening to convey an idea of any
outlet. This enchanting valley is studded with picturesque hamlets,
orchards of cherry trees, and fruitful gardens, producing every
description of vegetation. We crossed the river by the Puente Arenas,
where we saw a number of sturdy, thick-legged women, loaded with fresh
butter, from the mountains of the Asturias. I had not tasted that
commodity for more than two years, therefore it will be unnecessary to
describe how readily I made a purchase, and carried the treasure in
front of my saddle, until we had encamped; but, as ill luck would have
it, there was not any biscuit served out on that day.
The next morning we ascended by a most romantic winding road for a
league, and obtained a view of the tents of the fifth division, who
had made a _détour_ to outflank the enemy, and to secure the passage
of these narrow defiles. While passing a village, I asked several of
the inhabitants to sell me some bread; a shake of the head was the only
answer returned. I at last caught a glimpse of a priest, and, as I was
determined to have bread to eat with the fresh butter, I made towards
him, saluted him by a most gracious bend, pulled out a _pecéta_,
and requested he would procure me a loaf; he very good-naturedly
acquiesced, and soon again made his appearance with a three-pounder,
and also returned half my money: he seemed pleased, so was I, and,
more courteous salutes having been exchanged between us, I rejoined
the ranks. Travelling onwards, we perceived a large building on the
side of a hill, with something white waving at each window, which, on a
nearer view, we perceived to be a convent, and the nuns shaking their
white handkerchiefs to greet our approach. On taking up our ground for
the day, the baggage made its appearance, and ample justice was done to
the bread and butter by myself and companions.
On the 18th, while we were advancing left in front, along a narrow
road, shrouded by overhanging woods and high mountains, a hussar
informed us that the enemy were at hand. On reaching a more open space,
we observed a brigade of the French drawn up behind a rivulet, and
their front covered by a few houses. Two battalions of the rifle corps,
supported by the 52nd, instantly attacked them, and, after some smart
firing, the enemy gave ground. During this skirmish our regiment turned
off the road to the left, and formed line on a hill, as a rallying
point, in case of need; when, to our astonishment, we observed the
head of another column of the French issuing, by a road parallel to
us, out of an opening between two perpendicular rocks, and in rear of
our second brigade, already engaged. The other regiments composing
our brigade scrambled over the rocks, to endeavour to attack their
left, which the enemy perceiving, turned off the road, and made for a
hill: the 52nd brought up its left shoulder, and actually formed line
facing to the rear, at a run, and encountered the enemy on the crest of
the hill, who, the moment they met that regiment, turned round, and,
throwing off their packs, fled to the mountains, keeping up a running
fight. The second brigade was now engaged front and rear.
During this desultory _fusillade_, the baggage belonging to the French
division debouched from the already described outlet. The whole of the
enemy's escort huddled together, and made a most desperate resistance
amidst the rocks, while their affrighted animals ran loose, and were
seen on the highest pinnacles of precipices. Nearly the whole fell into
our hands, besides three hundred wounded and prisoners. The position of
the division became singular after the fight, with its centre at the
village St. Millan, and keeping a look-out to the front and rear. The
enemy had also attacked the left of our army, near Osma, in hopes that,
by causing such a delay, it would enable these two brigades, marching
from Frias, to form a junction with their main body.
On the 19th we moved forward, and, at about ten o'clock in the morning,
part of the fourth division became engaged with the light troops of
the enemy. Our division then made a short _détour_, and turned the
left of the French, who precipitately retired towards Vittoria. The
next day we halted, and the army took up a line on the river Bayas,
after long and arduous marching. The Marquis of Wellington approached
the river Zadorra, which covered the enemy's position, for the purpose
of examining the ground they occupied, and pointing out to different
generals the various debouches, and their necessary line of attack, in
the event of the French continuing to occupy the same ground on the
following day.
On the 21st, we stood to our arms, and moved forward in darkness, some
time before daybreak. A heavy shower of rain fell; but, as morning
dawned, the clouds dispersed, and the sun arose with fiery splendour.
A towering and steep ridge of mountains rose abruptly from the valley
on our right, which the Spaniards climbed early in the morning, at
first unopposed; the ascent was so steep, that, while moving up it,
they looked as if they were lying on their faces, or crawling. They
were supported, and soon followed across the river Zadorra, and through
the town of Puebla de Arlanzon, by part of the second division, for
the purpose of attacking the left of the enemy, who were posted on
the heights above Puebla de Arlanzon and Sabijana de Alava, where the
contest, at the former place, began at nine o'clock, amongst deep
ravines, rocks and precipices. The second division becoming heavily
engaged with the enemy, under all these disadvantages it could only
maintain the ground already won, and the firing seemed to die away
in that quarter. Our right centre, composed of the light and fourth
divisions, continued to advance, as also the great bulk of our cavalry.
At about ten o'clock, on ascending a rising ground, we observed the
French army drawn out in order of battle, in two lines, their right
centre resting on a round hill, their left centre occupying a gentle
ascent, and their left hid from view on the heights of Puebla; the
river Zadorra ran at the foot of this formidable position, and then
took a sudden turn, embracing and running parallel to their right
flank, towards Vittoria.
_El Rey Joseph_, surrounded by a numerous staff, was stationary on
the hill, overlooking his own right and centre. The French army was
unmasked, without a bush to prevent the sweeping of their artillery,
the charging of their cavalry, or the fire of their musketry from
acting with full effect on those who should attempt to pass the bridges
in their front, and which it was absolutely necessary to carry before
we could begin the action in the centre. When within a short distance
of the river, five of the French light horse advanced on the main road
to look out, and were overtaken by an equal number of our dragoons,
when they wheeled about and attempted to make off, without effect;
they were assailed on the near side, when three instantly fell from
their saddles, covered with sabre wounds, and their affrighted horses
galloped at random.
The light division left the road when within one mile of the river, and
drew up in contiguous close columns behind some shelving rocks near
Olabarre, with the hussar brigade dismounted on the left; the fourth
division made a corresponding movement, by branching off to the right,
and took post opposite their intended point of attack; the greater
part of our heavy cavalry and dragoons remained in reserve, to succour
the central divisions, in case the enemy should advance before the
third and seventh divisions should have taken up their ground on the
enemy's right flank. The first and fifth divisions, with two brigades
of Portuguese, a Spanish division, and two brigades of dragoons,
were making a _détour_ from Murguia, to place themselves on the line
of the enemy's retreat, towards St. Sebastian; the sixth division
remained some leagues in the rear of our army to guard the stores at
Medina. Gen. Clausel's division was manœuvring on our right, but not
sufficiently near on this day to give much cause of apprehension.
All the movements of our army required the nicest calculations, both
for the attack and defence; for at this time the four great columns
advancing were separated by difficult rocks and a rugged country,
interspersed with deep gulleys, narrow roads, and scattered hamlets.
The enemy were again under the painful necessity, for the third time in
one month, of manœuvring on two sides of a square; and the first cannon
fired by General Graham, at Abechucho and Gamarra Major,[48] must have
been to Joseph and Marshal Jourdan, (his Major-General,) like a shock
of electricity: all in an instant was riot and confusion in Vittoria;
the baggage stuck fast, blocking up all the roads, and even the fields.
At half-past eleven o'clock the Marquis of Wellington led the way
by a hollow road, followed by the light division, which he placed
unobserved amongst some trees, exactly opposite the enemy's right
centre, and within two hundred yards of the bridge of Villoses, which
we understood was to be carried at the point of the bayonet. I felt
anxious to obtain a view, and, leisurely walking between the trees, I
found myself at the edge of the wood, and within a very short distance
of the enemy's cannon, planted with lighted matches ready to apply to
them. Had the attack begun here, the French never could have stood to
their guns so near the thicket; or at least the riflemen would have
annihilated them. The General-in-chief was now most anxiously looking
out for the third and seventh divisions to make their appearance. We
had remained some time in the wood, when a Spanish peasant told the
Marquis of Wellington that the enemy had left one of the bridges across
the Zadorra unprotected, and offered his services to lead us over it.
Our right brigade instantly moved to its left _by threes_, at a rapid
pace, along a very uneven and circuitous path, (which was concealed
from the observation of the French by high rocks,) and reached the
narrow bridge which crossed the river to Yruna. The 1st rifles led the
way, and the whole brigade following, passed at a run, with firelocks
and rifles ready cocked, and ascended a steep road of fifty yards, at
the top of which was an old chapel, which we had no sooner cleared,
than we observed a heavy column of French on the principal hill, and
commanding a bird's-eye view of us. However, fortunately, a convex
bank formed a sort of _tête de pont_, behind which the regiments
formed at full speed, without any word of command. Two round shots
came amongst us; the second severed the head from the body of our
bold guide, the Spanish peasant. The soldiers were so well concealed,
that the enemy ceased firing. Our post was most extraordinary, as we
were at the elbow of the French position, and isolated from the rest
of the army, within one hundred yards of the enemy's advance, and
absolutely occupying part of their position on the left of the river,
without any attempt being made by them to dislodge us; scarcely the
sound of a shot, from any direction, struck on the ear, and we were in
momentary expectation of being immolated; and, as I looked over the
bank, I could see _El Rey Joseph_, surrounded by at least five thousand
men, within eight hundred yards of us. The reason he did not attack
is inexplicable, and, I think, cannot be accounted for by the most
ingenious narrator.
Gen. Sir James Kempt expressed much wonder at our critical position,
and our not being molested, and sent his aide-de-camp at speed across
the river for the 15th Hussars, who came forward singly, and at a
gallop, up the steep path, and dismounted in rear of our centre. The
French dragoons coolly, and at a very slow pace, came within fifty
yards to examine, if possible, the strength of our force, when a few
shots from the rifles induced them to decamp. I observed three bridges,
within a quarter of a mile of each other, at the elbow of the enemy's
position. We had crossed the centre one, while the other two, right and
left, where still occupied by the French artillery; at the latter, the
enemy had thrown up an earth entrenchment.
We continued in this awkward state of suspense for half an hour, when
we observed the centre of the enemy drawing off by degrees towards
Vittoria, and also the head of the third division rapidly debouching
from some rocks on our left near the hamlet of Mendoza, when the
battery at Tres Puentes opened upon them, which was answered by two
guns from the horse artillery on the right of the river. Some companies
of the rifle corps sprang from the ground, where they lay concealed,
and darted forward, opening a galling fire on the left flank of the
enemy's gunners, at great risk to themselves of being driven into the
water, as the river ran on their immediate left, while the French
cavalry hovered on their right; however, so well did this gallant band
apply their loose balls, that the enemy limbered up their guns, and
hastily retired; and the third division, at a run, crossed the bridge
of Tres Puentes, cheering, but unopposed.[49]
The enemy withdrew the artillery from the bridges in their centre at
two o'clock, P. M., and were forming across the high road to Vittoria.
The third division had no sooner closed up in contiguous columns, than
General Picton led them forward in very handsome style, in column,
by a flank movement, so as to place them exactly opposite the French
centre. The fourth division directly after crossed the river by the
bridge of Nanclara, and were hurrying forward to support the right
flank of the third division; the seventh division also crossed the
bridge of Tres Puentes, supported by the second brigade of the light
division, and faced the small village of Marganta. Our heavy horse and
dragoons had deployed into line, on the other side of the river, so as
to communicate with the rear of the second division, (in the event of
their being driven back from the mountains,) or to support the centre
of the army, in case of any disaster. They made a brilliant display of
golden helmets and sparkling swords, glittering in the rays of the sun.
Three divisions being in motion, the centre and left supported by the
light division and the hussar brigade, the battle began by a terrible
discharge on the third division, while they were deploying into line.
We closed up to them, behind a bank; when, with loud huzzas, they
rushed from behind it, into the village of Ariyez, with fixed bayonets,
amidst flashing small arms and rolling artillery, and, after a bloody
struggle, carried it. The enemy's artillery was within two hundred
yards of us, ploughing up the ground in our rear: fortunately, the
bank nearly covered us, during the time it was necessary to remain
inactive, to support the front attack, if needful. A Portuguese
regiment, attached to our brigade, had been detached for a short time,
and rejoined in close column; but, just before they reached the cover,
some round shot tore open their centre, and knocked over many men; and
such was the alarm of a Portuguese officer, at the whizzing of balls
and bursting of field shells, that he fell into an officer's arms,
weeping bitterly. For ten minutes at this point, what with dust and
smoke, it was impossible to distinguish any objects in front, save the
shadows of the French artillerymen serving the guns, and the shouts
of troops while forcing their way into the village. The smoke had
no sooner cleared away, than we came on the bodies of many dead and
gasping soldiers, stretched in the dust. The sharp fire of musketry
and artillery in the centre, announced it to be the point of contest.
The "advance" of the second division had been severely handled on the
mountains to our right, but they were now getting on as speedily as the
nature of the ground would admit, it being composed of deep ravines,
and such natural obstacles, as almost to delay their progress unopposed.
The first and fifth divisions were engaged at Gamarra Major and
Abechucho, in front of the bridges over the Zadorra. These villages
were carried after a smart action, by which a position was gained
threatening the enemy's line of retreat by the high road to France,
running N.E. some distance close on the left of the river. The bridge
was attempted, but was found to be impracticable, until our centre had
forced the enemy to give up Vittoria. The different divisions in the
centre were exposed to a desultory fire, while passing the villages
of Gomecha and Luazu de Alava, and over broken ground, forming lines,
columns, or threading the windings of difficult paths, according to
the nature of the country, or the opposition of the enemy. The fourth
division pushed back the left centre of the French, and were fighting
successfully, and performing prodigies of valour, among crags and
broken ground. The seventh division now came in contact with the
enemy's right centre, which resisted so desperately, and galled them
from a wood and the windows of houses with such showers of bullets,
that victory for a short time was doubtful; however, the second brigade
of the light division coming up fresh and with closed ranks, assisted
by the seventh division, broke through all opposition at a run, and
routed the enemy at the point of the bayonet. The four divisions of the
centre continued to gain ground, shooting forward alternately, leaving
the killed and wounded scattered over a great extent of country. At six
o'clock in the evening, by a sort of running fight, with hard contests
at certain points, the centre of the army had gained five miles in
this amphitheatre; for General Hill's corps was on the mountains, and
General Graham was still on the right of the Zadorra.
The Marquis of Wellington was in the middle of the battle, vigorously
driving the enemy, to finish that which the wings had so well begun.
First, General Hill's movement in the morning had caused the enemy to
weaken his left centre; then General Graham's attack induced him to
give up the front line of the Zadorra, without a shot (hardly) being
fired.
At half-past six we were within one mile of the city of Vittoria, the
capital of Alava, situated in a fruitful valley; but the French army
now drew up, and showed such an imposing array in front of the town,
that our left centre facing _Ali_ was completely kept at bay, owing to
the blazing of one hundred pieces of cannon vomiting forth death and
destruction to all who advanced against them. This roaring of artillery
continued for more than an hour on both sides, with unabated vigour:
the smoke rolled up in such clouds, that we could no longer distinguish
the white town of Vittoria; the liquid fire marked the activity of the
French gunners. During this momentous struggle, the left centre of
the French covered a bare hill, and continued for a considerable time
immoveable; while, pouring their musketry into the now-thinned ranks
of the third division, it was doubtful whether the latter would be
able to keep their ground, under such a deadly fire from very superior
numbers: however, they maintained this dangerous post with heroic
firmness, having led the van throughout the thick of the battle.
At this period of the action, it was absolutely necessary to strain
every nerve to win it before nightfall. The fourth division, on our
right, shot forward against a sugar-loaf hill, and broke a French
division, who retired up it in a confused mass, firing over each
other's heads, without danger to themselves, owing to the steepness of
its ascent. I was laughing at this novel method of throwing bullets,
when one struck me on the sash, and fell at my feet, thereby cooling
my ardour for a short time: however, when a little recovered from the
pain, I picked it up, and put the precious bit of lead into my pocket.
The scene that now presented itself was magnificently grand: the
valley resounded with confused sounds like those of a volcanic
eruption, and was crowded with red bodies of infantry and the smoking
artillery, while the cavalry eagerly looked for an opening to gallop
into the town. On one side of the field rose majestically the spiral
and purple-capped mountains, rearing their pinnacles on high; on the
other ran the glassy waters of the Zadorra: and the departing sun
threw his last beams to light up the efforts of those struggling in
dangerous strife for the deliverance of Spain. The enemy sacrificed all
their cannon, with the exception of eight pieces, while withdrawing
the right of their army behind the left wing, under cover of this
tremendous cannonade, which was the only chance yet left them to quit
the field in a compact body. This movement being executed in strange
confusion in and about Vittoria, their left wing retired by echelon of
divisions and brigades from the right, while delivering their fire;
and finally, their last division quitted the field with nearly empty
cartridge-boxes, and taking the road towards Pampeluna. The greater
portion of our army then brought up its left shoulder, or rather
wheeled the quarter circle to its right; which movement brought us on
the road to Pampeluna. The French managed to drag the eight pieces
of artillery across the fields for nearly a league; but, coming to
marshy ground, they stuck fast, and three of them rolled into a ditch,
with mules struggling to disentangle themselves from their harness.
Two pieces the enemy carried clear out of the action, leaving their
numerous cannon behind them, owing to the roads being so blocked up
with waggons.
The dark shades of evening had already veiled the distant objects from
our view, and nothing of the battle remained, save the lightning
flashes of the enemy's small arms on our cavalry, who continued to
hover and threaten their rear guard. The road to Pampeluna was choked
up with many carriages, filled with imploring ladies, waggons loaded
with specie,[50] powder and ball, and wounded soldiers, intermixed with
droves of oxen, sheep, goats, mules, asses, _filles de chambre_, and
officers. In fact, such a jumble surely never was witnessed before; it
seemed as if all the domestic animals in the world had been brought to
this spot, with all the utensils of husbandry, and all the finery of
palaces, mixed up in one heterogeneous mass.
Our brigade marched past this strange scene (I may well assert) of
domestic strife, in close column, nor did I see a soldier attempt to
quit the ranks, or show the most distant wish to do so; our second
brigade had not yet joined us, when we bivouacked a league from
Vittoria, on the road towards Pampeluna. The half-famished soldiers had
no sooner disencumbered themselves of their knapsacks, than they went
to forage; for even here the sheep and goats were running about in all
directions, and large bags of flour lay by the side of the road: in
fact, for miles round the town, the great wreck of military stores was
scattered in every direction.
Night put an end to the contest: the growling of artillery ceased,
the enemy were flying in disorder, the British army bivouacked round
Vittoria, large fires were kindled and blazed up, and illumined the
country, over which were strewed the dead and suffering officers and
soldiers: strange sounds continued throughout the night, and passing
lights might be seen on the highest mountains and distant valleys.
[Footnote 44: The iron kettles were very heavy, and were carried on
the backs of mules, one of which was attached to each company; but,
when near the enemy, and the baggage had been sent to the rear, these
unwieldy and capacious kettles were not at all times to be laid hold
of. Besides, it occupied the soldiers a considerable time to cook their
rations, particularly in the extensive plains, where only stubble
could be procured; and also during the rainy season, when the forest
trees were damp. I have often observed these ponderous kettles turned
bottom upwards, (at a time when there happened to be a scarcity of
provisions,) and encircled by ten or twelve weather-beaten soldiers,
who, with empty stomachs, stepped forward, one at a time, and each
of them in turn rubbing his blacking-brush on the sooty part of the
kettle, blacked his dusty shoes, cap-peak, canteen strap, and knapsack.]
[Footnote 45: A muleteer, so called from having the charge of five
mules, for the use of which he received five dollars daily, and one
for himself. The biscuit, rum, and reserve ball-cartridge, were
carried by the mules;—under charge of the above men the lean Barbary
bulls and bullocks followed the different divisions on their line of
march—the whole originally provided by, and under the superintendence
of commissaries.]
[Footnote 46: The British army was composed of eight divisions of
infantry, as usual. The first, of two brigades of Guards, with two of
the King's German Legion; the second, three brigades of British, and
three of Portuguese; the third, two of British, and one of Portuguese;
the fourth, fifth, sixth, and seventh, the same; the light division
of two brigades. Total, seventeen brigades of British infantry, two
of Germans, ten of Portuguese; besides other detachments. The cavalry
consisted of four brigades of Heavy, and four of Light Dragoons, and
two of Portuguese.]
[Footnote 47: The enemy left in the Castle of Pancorbo, (which commands
the narrow and tremendous pass through which the high road runs towards
Miranda,) a small garrison, who soon afterwards surrendered themselves
prisoners to the Spaniards.]
[Footnote 48: We could not see the extreme right of the enemy,
stationed near Arunnez, in front of Abechucho and Gamarra Major.]
[Footnote 49: The French did not defend any of the seven bridges
across the Zadorra, except the two lying north and N.E. near Vittoria,
although it was their original intention to do so. The able manœuvres
of the General-in-chief threw the French generals into doubt: they
knew not whether to defend their left, their right, or their centre;
so they gave up one after the other, in conformity with the threatened
attacks of the Marquis of Wellington—which was exactly what he wished,
and most accommodating of his opponents, who thus left this intended
great battle without beginning or without end; for the French infantry
were not half beaten, before disjointed orders and crowds of baggage
blocking up the different roads, completed their confusion past all
remedy.]
[Footnote 50: Some excesses were committed, although the greater part
of the booty, as usual, was bagged by the followers of the army.]