Pursuit of the enemy after the battle of Vittoria—Curious
spectacle and adventure in a French bivouac—Advance towards
Pampeluna, and repulse of the French rear-guard—Retreat of the
main body of the enemy into France—Reflections on the policy
of King Joseph—Change of the British route, and encampment
at Sanguessa—A casual dance—Return to Pampeluna—Expulsion
of the French from the valley of Bastan—The Basque
peasantry—Town of Bera—Position for covering Pampeluna and St.
Sebastian—Preparations for the attack of the latter place—The
command of the French assumed by the Duke of Dalmatia—A family
scene—Position of the French army.
On the morning of the 22d the atmosphere was overcast, and, being
without either cloaks or blankets to cover us, our uniforms were
very damp, owing to the heavy dew which had fallen during the night;
notwithstanding this, we arose from the ground exceedingly refreshed,
and gazed around, in mute amazement, at the prodigious wreck of
plundered Spain; for, beneath the French caissons, tumbrils, and brass
cannon, lay scattered _los doblones de oro, of the same virgin gold_
which had been extracted in former times from the peaceful Incas
of the new world, by those vindictive Spanish adventurers, whose
avaricious veins boiled at that epoch with the hot blood of the Moors.
At nine o'clock the rolling of the tenor and bass drums, and the clank
of cymbals, beating the marching time, announced that the leading
regiments of the division were in motion for the purpose of following
the enemy. During the rest of the day we marched through a valley,
enclosed by highlands, but did not overtake the enemy; the corn was
trampled down in many places, which showed they had moved in three
columns, whenever the ground would admit of it. Soon after dark, the
division bivouacked in a wood, a drizzling rain began to fall, and
we laid down under a tree to enjoy a nap, until the arrival of our
sumpter mules, heavily laden with flour and live stock, which we had
industriously scraped together from the refuse of Vittoria's field.
At midnight we were awakened, with keen appetites, by the well-known
neighing of the horses, and braying of donkeys; but none of the baggage
animals came our way, and during our anxious and broken slumbers the
night passed away, and the morning was ushered in by a sweeping rain,
which thoroughly saturated the troops before they began their march.
As I chanced to be for the duty of bringing up any stragglers who
might happen to lag behind, and my hungry messmate being also for the
baggage guard (of those who had come up), we journeyed together along
the sloppy road, when the conversation naturally turned on the splendid
victory gained over the French legions two days before, and we remarked
how gladdened the people of England would be on the receipt of such a
piece of glorious intelligence, while they would little imagine that
the greater portion of the victors would willingly lay down half their
laurels for a good breakfast.
At the close of the evening we came to the remains of a French bivouac,
consisting of doors and window shutters torn from a neighbouring
village by the enemy, and propped up to screen them from the inclemency
of the weather. The sole person to be seen was a draggled-tailed old
woman, with a ragged petticoat, who, without noticing us, or once
raising her eyes, continued to pursue her interesting employment of
stirring up with a stick the mud (which was interspersed with fragments
of books and French novels,) or handling the broken fragments of
earthenware pots. Our curiosity was so much excited, that we reined in
our steeds to watch the progress of the wrinkled and copper-coloured
old dame, who, stretching out her bronzed and shrivelled arm, at last
laid hold of a whole utensil, and as she hastily splashed off, I caught
a glimpse of a chicken, resting on one leg, behind a shutter, which
somehow or other had escaped the ramrod of the enemy, and the hawk-eyed
soldiers of the pursuing column. Unsheathing my sabre, I jumped to the
ground, and sprang forward either to grasp or maim the destined prize;
however, the ground was in such a slimy state, that my speed availed
not; on the contrary it hastened my fall. My companion, disdaining to
take warning at my mishap, must needs himself begin a hot pursuit;
however, the practical experience convinced him of the slippery
obstacles; he soon lay sprawling on his face, plastered with mire:
suffice it, the bird escaped, and we resumed our wet saddles, in a
condition and appearance nowise enviable.—Soon after dark we came to a
river, but as the enemy had not sufficient time to blow up the bridge,
they had set fire to many of the houses in the main street of the town,
(which were still in flames,) in hopes of blocking up the way with the
burning rafters, which they had hurled from the roofs of the houses, in
expectation of preventing our artillery from passing through, and thus
harassing our retreat. The rain still falling in torrents, by degrees
extinguished the red embers of the smoking ruins, and prevented the
place from being entirely consumed to ashes. The soldiers of the
division crowded the houses, and huddled under cover wherever they
could find shelter. We were obliged to content ourselves by squeezing
into a small hovel, where the smoke found egress through the broken
roof; the floor was composed of slabs of rocks, in some places rearing
their primitive heads amid flints and loose stones. During the night
a ration of meat and six ounces of mouldy biscuit were served out,
which was greedily devoured by the victorious troops. It was in vain
that we scraped into a heap the stones of this macadamized lodge, for
the purpose of lying down; for bumps and holes only increased our
difficulties, and we were forced to ascend a broken ladder into a
wretched loft, swarming with vermin, to prick for a soft plank, whereon
to stretch our chilly limbs.
At dawn, on the 24th, we were again on the road; the weather cleared
up, and the cheerful rays of the sun sparkled in the crystal drops,
which fell on our heads as we glided beneath the wet foliage. Having
advanced a few miles, we found the enemy's rear-guard posted at a bare
and steep pass, which covered the highroad, two leagues from Pampeluna.
The column having closed up, two battalions of the rifle corps
(supported by the horse artillery[51]) pushed forward, and, after a
sharp skirmish, they succeeded in pushing back the French rear-guard;
the guns then galloped up the road, and plied the round shot with
such effect, that they succeeded in dismounting one of the only two
cannon which the enemy had extricated from Vittoria's entangled field.
They had rolled the gun over a steep bank on the right of the paved
causeway, on which were regular league stones, and the first I had
noticed in Spain. One round shot had struck down seven of the enemy on
the left of the road; some of them were dead; others still alive, with
either legs or arms knocked off, or otherwise horribly mutilated, and
were crying out in extreme anguish, and imploring the soldiers to shoot
them, to put an end to their dreadful sufferings. A German hussar, in
our service, assured them that they would be kindly treated by our
medical officers. "No! no!" they vociferated, "we cannot bear to live.
Countryman, we are Germans, pray kill us, and shorten our miseries."
Continuing onwards, we soon after drew up on the slope of a hill,
within sight of Pampeluna, the capital of Navarre; it is well
fortified, with a strong citadel, and situated near the banks of the
river Arga, in a fertile plain abounding with wheat, the ears of which
we rubbed between our hands to satisfy the cravings of hunger. Just
before our arrival, the enemy's scattered army had clustered beneath
the ramparts of the fortress, where they were in hopes of entering to
obtain rest and provisions; but the place was so scantily supplied,
that the gates were ordered to be barred against all intruders. From
this place an excellent road branches off in a north-westerly direction
to Tolosa; but as General Graham, with his corps, was marching direct
on that town, by the great road to France, it was of no avail to the
main body of the enemy, who were obliged to continue their retreat into
France, by Roncesvalles and other roads, merely leaving a rear-guard in
the valley of Bastan.
The following morning we filed over a rugged and flinty mountain,
south-west of Pampeluna, from the summit of which we almost commanded
a bird's-eye view into the very heart of the town, garrisoned by four
thousand of the enemy. This place, well provisioned, should have
been fixed on for the grand base of Joseph's defensive and offensive
movements; for, had he made it the pivot of his operations, and opened
his line on Aragon, (and the strong holds in Catalonia, held by the
Duke of Albufera), his flanks would have been secured by the Ebro and
the Pyrenees, and would have thrown our army on two sides of a square,
and entangled it between two strong fortresses, and the labyrinths
of the Pyrenees. Most probably such a movement would have kept the
war from the immediate frontier of France, whence fresh troops, under
favourable circumstances, could debouch and attack our left face. From
political reasons, the time had not arrived for the decided invasion of
that country; besides, if it had, such an invasion could not have been
executed, so long as the enemy hovered in force on our right flank.
Continuing our route, we crossed the river Arga, and entered the town
of Villalba: our baggage at last came up, and the Casa in which we were
quartered was enclosed by a good garden, well stocked with vegetables,
which was considered a piece of good fortune in those times. This
day, the 25th, General Graham overtook General Foy, retiring from the
vicinity of Bilboa, who, on hearing of the unhappy extent of the French
disasters at Vittoria, made an effort to block up the passage through
Tolosa, but the victorious English broke through all obstacles, and
continued to advance. In a few days the small garrison of Los Passages
surrendered themselves prisoners. Thus it was that the left wing of the
army had hardly halted since issuing from the _bowels of Portugal_,
until the precipitous bank of the river Bidassoa (which divided France
and Spain), put a stop for a time to its memorable march and victorious
career.
On the 26th we had an idea that we should halt, but during the day we
were again under arms, (marching by an excellent road running S.S.E.,
leading direct on Tafalla,) accompanied by the third and fourth
divisions, with a proportion of cavalry and artillery, to endeavour to
cut off General Clausel's corps, which had approached Vittoria the day
after the battle; but he also, being made acquainted with the total
route of _El Rey Joseph_, immediately countermarched on Logroño, and
thence to Tudella.[52] During the movements of the right and left wings
of the British army, General Hill, with the centre, showed front, and
_masked_ Pampeluna.
The weather now cleared up, but continued variable during the whole
summer; the seasons here being totally different from the dry and
scorching heats in the more southern provinces, where the sun-burnt
mountains and vast plains, are covered, at this time of the year, with
a parched vegetation, or the remains of many cindered forests.
Continuing our movement, we became once again extricated from the
mountainous regions, which had every where enclosed us for more than a
fortnight. The country was now open, and highly cultivated, with groups
of bold peasantry lining each side of the way, and greeting us by
crying _Vivan los Coluros, y viva el Réy Fernándo séptimo_; and, while
moving in the direction of Tudella, our enthusiastic hopes were raised
to the highest pitch, at the probability of reaching the venerable and
renowned city of Saragossa; but our line was all at once changed, and
by a forced march we entered the province of Aragon, passing through a
barbarous-looking country, barely peopled, (the forlorn _pueblos_ lying
wide asunder, the poor dwellings being mostly constructed of dried mud,
and plastered over with the same substance;) and at the expiration of
five days we reached Sanguessa, and encamped.
Here we halted one day,[53] and, while promenading the town in the
evening, the soft notes of music floated in the air, and on a nearer
approach to the place whence the sounds issued, we were agreeably
saluted by the scraping and cheerful notes of violins. A crowd of
Spaniards had assembled round the door of the _Casa_, and on being
questioned by another officer and myself whether the ball was public,
"_Oh si señores_," answered they, "_es muy público_:" so, bustling up
the stone steps, and feeling our way along a dark passage, we found
ourselves, on opening a massive door, amongst many _señoritas_, with a
scarcity of _caballeros_. A staff-officer, who was the promoter of the
dance, expressed his gladness at so opportune an arrival. Although a
friend, we apologised to him for the apparent intrusion; but he was a
man of no ceremony, and declared it to be a lucky mistake; which turned
out to be the case, for we beat good waltz time during the whole night,
to the great satisfaction of the _señoritas_.
On reaching the camp the following morning, the tents were already
struck, and the troops moving off on their return to Pampeluna. What
with the overpowering rays of the sun, the rising clouds of dust, and
our overnight's exertion, we were so overcome, that had it not been for
the kindly arms of the soldiers, we should have dropped from off our
horses, while fast asleep, dreaming of black-eyed _señoras, waltzing,
and precipices_!
In two days we reached Pampeluna by a more direct road, but the men
began to flag, owing to irregular and poor feeding; besides which, we
had been marching for thirty-two days, with only two regular halts,
since quitting our camp between Toro and Salamanca; therefore, those
plagued and suffering from sore feet were under the painful necessity
(unless totally unable to proceed), of going on until they got well
again. I have often seen the blood soaking through the gaiters, and
over the heels of the soldiers' hard shoes, whitened with the dust.
The general-in-chief having cleared his right flank, and again
condensed his right and centre round Pampeluna, debouched thence on
the 4th July, for the purpose of taking possession of the passes of
the western Pyrenees, and pushing the enemy's vanguard out of the
valley of Bastan into France; which was executed by part of the second
division, on the 7th. Our division, forming the left centre of the
army, flanked this movement.
Our route at first lay through verdant and luxuriant valleys,
abounding with apple orchards, groves of chesnut trees, and small
fields of Indian corn; from thence we ascended by broken roads, over
rugged mountains, which were cracked in many places into vast chasms,
overhung with oak trees of enormous magnitude, whose ponderous and wide
spreading branches cast their dark shadows over the dried water-courses
and natural grottos, formed by the intricate mazes of the underwood,
entwining around the peaked and overhanging rocks, which in many places
were garnished with wild strawberries.
The third day after leaving Pampeluna, we descended from the mountains
into the compact little town of St. Estevan, situated on the rocky
and woody bank of the clear stream of the Bidassoa, over which a good
stone bridge communicates with the opposite side of the river: here we
halted, with full leisure to explore the lovely scenery, which on every
side encircled this secluded valley.
Our curiosity was much excited by the peculiar method of washing in
this part of the country, the women squatting, or rather sitting on
their bare heels, with their lower garments tightly pulled about them,
whilst others stood in the river rinsing the linen, with their only
petticoat tied in a knot very high up betwixt their legs, displaying
the most perfect symmetry; and it was morally impossible to refrain
from admiring the natural and graceful forms of these nymphs.
The dress of the Basque peasantry is totally different from that of
other provinces, and many of the females possess very fair complexions
and are extremely beautiful, being a happy mixture of _las brunas y
las blondas_; their hair is combed back without any curls, and plaited
into a long tail, which hangs down below the hips; their jackets are
of blue or brown cloth, and pinned so exceedingly tight across the
breast, that the bosom seldom swells to any size; the woollen and only
petticoat worn by them is of a light or mixed colour, reaching to the
middle of the calf of the leg; and, with the exception of the bosom
being so compressed, they are divinely formed. They are also remarkably
nimble of foot, and always carry their little merchandize on the top of
the head; they seldom wear shoes or stockings, except on Sundays and
saints' days. The men go bare-necked, and wear a blue cap, or bonnet,
(precisely similar to those worn in the highlands of Scotland,) with
bushy hair hanging in ringlets on their shoulders. In hot weather
they usually carry the short blue, or brown jacket, slung over the
left shoulder, and with long and rapid strides, or at times, breaking
into a short run, they traverse the steep acclivities with their shoes
and stockings frequently slung on a long pole, which they either carry
sloped over the shoulder, or grasped in the middle like a javelin, and
use it for the purpose of assisting them in scaling or descending the
crags, or frightful precipices. Their waistcoats are double-breasted,
without a collar; the breeches are of brown cloth, or blue velveteen,
fitting tight over the hips, (without braces), and reaching to the cap
of the knee, where they are usually unbuttoned, to give full play to
the limbs; a red sash is twisted round the loins. They are a gaunt,
sinewy, and remarkably active race of men, of sallow complexions; their
limbs are admirably proportioned, and they are as upright as a dart.
After a rest of two days, we marched towards Bera by a narrow road,
running parallel on the right bank of the river Bidassoa, the greater
part of the way being blocked up with large stones, or fragments of
rock, which had tumbled from the overhanging cliffs, that were rent in
many places into terrific chasms, partly choked with huge trunks or
roots of trees, through which overwhelming torrents gushed from the
mountains during the heavy rains and formed vast cataracts, often
swelling the river into a foaming and angry torrent. Its rocky bed is
fordable at this time of the year, and varies from thirty, to more
than a hundred yards in breadth. Owing to the badness of the road, a
number of infantry soldiers were employed in clearing away obstacles,
or lifting the wheels of the cannon, with handspikes, over the loose
fragments or projecting slabs of rock, which, at every few paces for
three leagues impeded their progress.
During the march we passed near the bridges of Sunbilla, Yansi, and
Lazaca, which cross to the left bank of the river, where some Spanish
sentinels were posted on the cliffs, who called out to us, "_miren
ustedes, miren los Franceses_," and on casting our eyes upwards, we
observed three of the enemy's _chasseurs à cheval_, looking down on us
as if from the clouds. Part of the division had been already detached,
for the purpose of keeping a look out up the narrow road to the right
leading to the heights of Echalar. Just before we reached the mouth of
this contracted defile, a buzz from the head of the column proclaimed
the enemy's infantry to be at hand, and the musketry had no sooner
commenced, than an officer, who had been amusing himself by the perusal
of a volume of _Gil Blas_, hastily placed it under the breast of his
grey pelisse: almost at the same instant a musket ball buried itself
in the middle of the book, and displaced him from his horse, without
inflicting any further injury; it is a curious fact, that the exact
pattern of the silk braiding of the pelisse[54] was indented in the
leaden bullet.
Our front being speedily cleared of the enemy's skirmishers, the firing
ceased, and we entered a pleasant valley, within half a mile of Bera,
which on this road is the frontier town of Spain, and is situated at
an elbow, on the right bank of the Bidassoa: it has a good church with
a lofty steeple, and consists of one long straggling street, a quarter
of a mile in length, and immediately at the foot of the mountain de
Comissari, over which a steep road, three yards broad, crosses the
summit, which is called the _puérta de Bera_, and leads N.N.E. to St.
Jean de Luz, in France; two other roads, if they may be so designated,
branch off right and left from Bera, the first running easterly along
the valley, (parallel with a small rivulet which empties itself into
the Bidassoa), and passes between the great rock of La Rhune and the
opposite mountain of St. Bernard, to St. Barbe and Sarré, into France;
at this point the rugged defile is very narrow, and almost causes a
complete _break or separation_ in the western Pyrenees: the other road
from Bera runs across the Bidassoa, over a narrow stone bridge, four
hundred yards from the town, to Salines, thence branching off through
gloomy forests and over steep mountains to Oyarzun, Passages, and Saint
Sebastian.
From Salines there is also a narrow rugged pathway, which traverses
N.N.W. by the winding current, on the left bank of the Bidassoa; it is
intersected with loose stones, and in many places ascends the steep and
difficult acclivities over the naked rock, and finally enters the great
road beyond Irun, which leads across the Bidassoa (where the enemy had
broken down the bridge) into France, thence passing over the river
Nivelle to St. Jean de Luz, and on to Bayonne, a distance of about
twenty-four miles from Irun, which is the frontier town of Spain by
that route.
The right of the enemy immediately opposed to us rested on a nearly
perpendicular rock, at an elbow of the Bidassoa, and overlooking the
small market place of Bera, so much so, that, if inclined, they might
have smashed the roofs of the houses, at the west end of the town, by
rolling down upon them huge fragments of rock. This post was decorated
with a variety of fancy flags, or strips of cloth, of various colours,
tied at the top of long poles while groups of French tirailleurs, who
encircled them, sounded their small shrill trumpets, _and jocosely
invited us to the attack_.
Their centre or reserve, composed of black columns, crowned the heights
on each side of the _Puerta de Bera_, and also the wooded heights
extending to the base of the rock of La Rhune, on which their left was
stationed in an old ruin.
The ground having been fully examined, and the picquets properly
placed, we re-entered the mouth of the pass, and, having cut down two
or three small fields of Indian corn, and stored it up as provender
for the animals, we encamped on the stubble close to the river. The
day was fine, but during the night the rain descended in torrents, and
continued to fall so heavily for two days, as to swamp the ground on
which our tents were pitched, and it was with the utmost exertion that
we could keep them upright, owing to the frequent gusts of wind tearing
the pegs out of the liquid mud. In these damp and chilly regions the
tents proved of incalculable service to the army. The weather again
clearing, our first brigade ascended the bare heights of Santa Barbara,
the second brigade occupied a rising ground to protect the entrance
of the defile leading to St. Estevan, and the picquets were pushed
into the town of Bera, (within half a stone's throw and beneath those
of the enemy), and into the farm houses in the valley, enclosed by
orchards.[55]
The stupendous and lofty chain of the western Pyrenees being now taking
up for the purpose of covering Pampeluna and St. Sebastian, the second
division occupied the various rugged paths and passes winding Up the
steep sides of the mountains near Roncesvalles and Maya; the seventh
division those of Echalar; the light division the heights of Santa
Barbara, and the road leading to St. Estevan, opposite to Bera; and the
first division and Spaniards guarding the left bank of the Bidassoa
to the sea-coast. The latter troops helped to block up the numerous
_gaps_, all along the crest of the position, such as mountain paths,
goat tracts, and dried water-courses, as well as the numerous fords
across the Bidassoa. This extended position is about thirty-eight miles
in extent, as the crow flies, running north west from Roncesvalles
to the town of Fontarabia, (which is situated near the mouth of
the Bidassoa, where this river empties itself into the sea,) but
necessarily following the rugged and zigzag flinty roads, along the
winding or crooked valleys, or over difficult mountains, intersected
with deep glens, chasms, craggy defiles, tremendous precipices, and
through almost impenetrable forests. The distance may be fairly
calculated at sixty miles for troops to march from right to left.
On the 13th, the Duke of Dalmatia came from the north for the
purpose of taking the command of the French army. The 15th being the
anniversary of Napoleon's birth-day, the enemy at night illuminated
their bivouac, by ingeniously festooning the branches of the trees with
thousands of paper lamps, which produced a very bright glare, and of
course presented a very novel appearance.
Four days after this, the fifth division began to dig the trenches at
St. Sebastian, for the purpose of erecting batteries to batter _en
brêche_. The third and fourth divisions, which had been kept in the
neighbourhood of Pampeluna in reserve, and also to assist the Spaniards
in drawing a line of circumvallation round that place, for the purpose
of hemming in and starving the garrison into a surrender, now moved
forward (leaving a Spanish corps to guard the lines); the former went
to Olacque, and the latter to Biscarret; the sixth division was at
St. Estevan: _these three divisions being the reserve_, and ready to
succour at those points where their assistance might be required. The
cavalry and artillery were cantoned in rear of the centre and left of
the whole army.
One evening, while reclining on the parched and sun-burnt turf at
the tent door, our milch goat nibbling particles of hard biscuit out
of my hand, on looking around, I was much struck with the beauty of
the scenery; the azure sky was reddened and glowing with a variety of
brilliant tints, reflected from the glare of the setting sun, whose
bright rays glided the rugged peaks of the towering and great bulging
mountains which every where inclosed us. A long line of grey-coated
French sentinels lined the opposite ridge, and one of their bands was
playing a lively French air. In the valley below us, the little active
Basque boys and girls were pelting each other with apples,[56] between
the hostile armies, while the straggling and half-starved Spanish
soldiers (who dared not pluck the fruit) pretending to enjoy the sport,
but in reality were picking up the apples, and carefully depositing
them in their small forage bags. In the back ground sat our tanned and
veteran batman,[57] employed in mending a pack-saddle, after a long
day's forage, and casting an eye of affection towards his animals,
which were tied round a stake, feeding, with ears turned back, on some
fresh heads of Indian corn. In the meanwhile my messmate was conversing
with, and drawing a caricature of, a dowdy woman,[58] (from the
Asturias,) loaded with an oblong basket of fresh butter, with her arms
akimbo, and her nut-brown knuckles resting on hips which supported no
less than four short coarse woollen petticoats; from underneath these
branched out a pair of straddling legs, of enormous circumference, the
feet being wrapped in brown hairy skins, by way of sandals. In this
position of things my contemplative mood was all at once interrupted
by an officer of the _rifle corps_ riding up, who, with a mysterious
air, whispered me, by way of a profound secret, that he had become
acquainted with a Spanish family, residing in the town of Bera, and
offered to introduce me, provided I would agree to limit my attentions
to the eldest daughter, _Maria Pepa_, who, he acknowledged, was endowed
with very ordinary attractions, whereas her sister, _Ventura_, of
seventeen, possessed charms of a far superior description. As a matter
of course, not wishing to throw any impediments in the way of so
liberal an offer, I readily acquiesced in the proposal, and forthwith
accompanied him to the _destined_ Casa, for as such I may justly
nominate it, as I may affirm that this introduction was subsequently
the means of the life of a wounded brother officer being preserved,
owing to the kind attention of its inmates, who watched over his
mattress night and day, until he was out of danger: his hurt in fact
was so severe, that when a doctor was asked how he found the patient, he
replied. "Pretty well, but no man can ever recover from such a wound."
On alighting from our horses we entered the house, and having ascended
the staircase, we found _el Padre, la Madre, y las dos hijas_ seated in
a spacious apartment, with the casements open, and a French sentinel,
who was posted on a projecting grey rock, so thoroughly overlooking the
house, that we could almost fancy he could overhear the lamentations
of the anxious parents, who, devoutly crossing themselves, prayed that
the siege of St. Sebastian might be speedily brought to a conclusion,
to enable them to return to their house at that place, and secure the
valuable plate and property, which they had been forced to abandon in
great haste, to escape being confined in that town during the siege.
Having passed some hours with them in a very agreeable manner, we took
our departure, with a promise of shortly renewing our visit.
The left and main body of the French army, being now concentrated,
formed a line at the foot of the Pyrenees, in the vicinity of Forage
and St. Jean Pied de Port, in France, with its right wing occupying the
mountains from the Rock of la Rhune to Bera, thence by the right of
the Bidassoa to Andaye, and flanked by the Bay of Biscay. This ridge
immediately covers the country in front of St. Jean de Luz and Bayonne.
Preparatorily to offensive movements, the French marshal issued a
flaming proclamation to his troops, in which he reminded them that
the standards of Britain waved aloft, and that her army, from the
summits of the Pyrenees, proudly looked down on the fertile fields of
France,—an evil which he attributed to the want of decision in the
late French commanders. "Let us then," said the Marshal, "wipe off the
stain from our faded laurels, by chasing the English beyond Vittoria,
and there celebrate another triumph, to add to the many victories which
have so often decorated your brows, in all parts of Spain, _and on many
a hard-fought day_."
[Footnote 51: Lieut.-Colonel Ross of the Horse Artillery, as usual,
commanded this troop.]
[Footnote 52: There he gained information of our movements, which
forced him to follow the right bank of the Ebro, until he reached
Saragossa, where, crossing the river, and leaving a small garrison
behind, he moved towards the pass of Jaca, and entering France on the
1st of July, he at last succeeded, after a round-about march, with the
loss of the greater part of his _matériel_, in forming a junction with
the French army.]
[Footnote 53: There was a great scarcity of wood in the neighbourhood
of this place, and as the third division followed ours, Sir Thomas
Picton cast his eye on a pile ready cut, and, as soon as he had
dismissed his division, sent a regular party, with a _val_, to secure
it, when, lo! it had all vanished!]
[Footnote 54: Many of the officers of our corps wore red and grey
pelisses, similar to those of the Hussars. The bullet which I have
described was afterwards shown as a curiosity, and I examined it
myself; the silk braiding had been carried into the compressed leaves
of the book, and remained twisted tight round the ball.]
[Footnote 55: These produce an abundance of small tart apples.]
[Footnote 56: This was a usual pastime among them, throughout the
mountains, which abounded with vast quantities of apple trees. One
day another officer and myself were enjoying a rural walk, when we
met two of our friends, whom for amusement we pelted with apples, and
drove them at full speed out of the orchard. All of a sudden, we were
assailed by a number of the Basque boys, led on by a girl, who had
witnessed our sport at a distance, and, although we piqued ourselves on
being pretty good throwers, we found it a difficult matter to contend
with them, from their dexterity in dealing out such irritating blows
on our faces and legs; until, being ashamed to ask for quarter of
such diminutive and laughing antagonists, we made a last effort, and
succeeded in hitting one of their leaders on the bare heel, when they
all ran away, to our exceeding satisfaction. My companion had been a
Cadet at the Royal Military College at Marlow, and declared that he had
never experienced a warmer rencontre in his more juvenile affrays at
that place.]
[Footnote 57: The batmen of the army were hard-working and privileged
characters, who, after unloading at the end of harassing marches were
obliged to go a great distance in search of forage, and armed with a
sickle ready to cut down even rushes, or any thing they could lay their
hands upon, for their famished animals. If all happened to be right,
after a long day's journey when questioned by the anxious officers (no
matter of what rank), they would negligently turn away, and scarcely
give any answer; but if one of their horses or mules happened to be
lame or suffering from a sore back, or had cast a shoe, they would
fret, fume, curse, swear, throw the ropes about, and give such a
catalogue of evils, as to terrify the master with the idea that all was
going to rack and ruin.]
[Footnote 58: These hardy women are in the habit, thus heavily loaded,
of walking thirty or forty miles a day.]