The author becomes convalescent, and proceeds to rejoin the
army—Guadarama mountains—Park and palace of the Escurial—An
enthusiastic native—A Spanish bandit—British quarters in
Madrid, and description of the city—English theatricals—Renewed
activity of the contending armies—The British troops evacuate
Madrid—Romantic attachments—Alba de Tormes—Re-occupation of
Salamanca—Military discomforts—Skirmishing affairs—The French
obliged to desist from pursuit through fatigue—Various positions
of the British forces during the winter of 1812-13.
For my part, I had no sooner contrived to get out of bed at Salamanca,
than I began to pace up and down the room, and in a very few days
gained sufficient strength to be enabled to inhale the fresh air in the
cool of the evening. While walking slowly along, I met one of the staff
doctors of our division, who expressed much regret that he had not
been aware of my being sick in that town, and offered every assistance
in his power; I expressed my thanks, but informed him that I intended
to join my regiment. He asked me if I were mad, and insisted on my
giving him a promise not to think of prosecuting so wild a scheme for
the present; which I was necessitated to acquiesce in, from a fear that
he would effectually stop my rambles: however, two days afterwards,
I presented myself to the medical board, which sat daily to examine
officers: the group of _medicos_ were seated round a table, and,
having eyed them particularly, I experienced great relief at finding
the worthy doctor did not form one of the party. I felt considerable
agitation, (from a fear that they would not sanction my departure,)
which gave me a colour; in fact, I reported myself in perfect health,
and obtained permission to proceed to rejoin the army with a strong
detachment, who were about to depart for that purpose. At five o'clock
next morning, the day before I was to recommence my journey, my servant
entered my quarter, and announced that my mule had been stolen, during
the night, out of the stable, and that my horse had been running about
loose, with the door wide open. This unwelcome intelligence caused me
to tremble so violently, that I sank down on the bed, nor do I ever
recollect being so agitated in my life, for I had no means left to
supply its place, and I could not have walked in my weak state half a
league. Fortunately an officer, who had just come from England to join
us, relieved my anxiety, by offering to carry my baggage on one of his
animals.
At daylight the next morning we started. The spangled dew still hung
on the trees, the morning breeze refreshed my body and mind, and
with exhilarated spirits I felt as if new life and fresh vigour had
been conveyed throughout my frame. The dead French soldier was still
stationary in the wood, and in exactly the same position already
described. On re-entering Alba de Tormes, I passed the _apothecary's
shop_, with exultation, which only four weeks before I had entered in
such a miserable plight. When we passed through Arevalo, one of the
narrow streets leading to the Plaza was choked up with cars from the
city of Burgos, crammed to overloading with exhausted, speechless, and
wounded Highlanders, covered with hot sand, and many of them slumbering
unto death; their pallid countenances portended the speedy dissolution
of their lingering sufferings, while their sable plumes and torn
tartans hung loosely on the pointed stakes, which formed the temporary
sides of the rude vehicles. I searched in vain, through every narrow
avenue, and amongst the numerous convents and monasteries, for the
house of the young lady who had been so attentive to me in that town.
I well recollected the high walls of one of those fabrics inclosing
one side of the garden; I was, therefore, in hopes that in some spot of
difficult access, I should find the fair object of my solicitude. The
whole of the following day (during our halt) was passed, however, in
fruitless search.
Continuing the march, our little column consisted of three hundred and
fifty men, and when within sight of the distant villages, which were
surrounded by extensive plains, the church bells rang merry peals.
Almost the whole of these places had been entrenched by temporary
works, and the churches loopholed by the French posts of communication,
to protect their small detachments from being destroyed or cut off by
the _guerillas_, or surprised by the infuriated peasantry. Shortly
before we reached the Guadarama mountains, we struck into the high road
to Madrid; for many miles there was scarcely a house to be seen. At
length we came to a _venta_, on the right of the road, but the house
had been thoroughly gutted, and it was impossible for the owners of it
to procure any thing for us to eat. The country bore a very solitary
aspect until we began to ascend the pass by a paved road, cut in a
zigzag direction up the face of the mountain, on the top of which
stands a marble fountain. The prospect from this point is very grand,
commanding a distant view of Madrid, of the palace of the Escurial,
and of the rugged mountains extending towards Segovia, which are
covered with snow during the greater portion of the year. The poor
village of the Guadarama is situated in a valley at the foot of the
grand pass, in the kingdom of new Castile.
Towards evening, our horses being in some degree refreshed, we rode
into the park of the Escurial, which is of considerable extent, and
lies adjacent to the village, producing pretty good pasturage, but
infested by prowling wolves and wild boars. The trees are generally of
small growth, consisting of oak, carob, ash, and cork. The front of the
palace of the Escurial looks towards the mountains of the Guadarama,
and is built of a grey granite, in the shape of a gridiron. This
culinary utensil is represented in the books of mass, on the doors, and
in various parts of the building, which is perforated by innumerable
windows. The pantheon of the palace is octagon, composed of marble;
about fourteen niches are occupied by embalmed kings and queens; and
there are a variety of other curiosities worthy the observation of the
traveller. Returning towards the village, the old man of the house
assured us the effect of the extraordinary edifice we had explored
was nothing to the wonder and astonishment we should experience at
the grand bull fights of Spain. The tears rolled down his furrowed
cheeks as he ran about the room, (which was paved with red tiles,)
representing the wild Andalusian bull staring with surprise on first
entering the arena; and then, getting astride of a chair, showed us
how the _Picador_ received the bellowing bull on his lance, and the
way he was frequently tossed, mangled, and killed, by the infuriated
animal. Then again, he skipped and danced about the room to represent
the men insinuating the pointed darts and crackers into the animal's
neck; and finally gave us the _graceful Matador_, with a red cloak
slung over one arm, and a short sword in his hand, making his obeisance
with a profound bend to the _señoras_ and _caballeros_, who excite him
by countless _vivas_, and the waving of the white hands, and whiter
pocket-handkerchiefs, to dispatch the staggering bull at one thrust.
At length the ancient _caballero_ became so much exhausted by his
exertions and feelings, that he fell back motionless in his chair,
exclaiming, "_Oh, los ladrones Franceses!_ they have eaten up all
our Andalusian bulls, killed our poultry, corrupted all our _mozas_,
and knocked all our _Santa Marias_ from the altars, and out of their
_sacred niches_ by the road side."
During this rhodomontade we remained quiet spectators, quaffing the
excellent wine which our host had extracted from a concealed deposit.
Taking our departure the next morning, two of us being some short
distance behind the detachment, at a very lonely spot, we observed a
Spaniard of most ferocious aspect, with huge mustachios, a capacious
_sombrero_, and clad in a leathern jacket, like a cuirass, with a short
broad sword by his side, and a brace of pistols in his broad belt,
which was buckled round his waist. We were instantly convinced that he
was a robber on the look out, in the capacity of a spy, for his hidden
_camarados_; however, saluting him as we passed, which he returned by
a cold and distant bend of the head, the few baggage animals being in
sight, we thought it necessary to warn the soldiers in charge to be on
their guard, although, generally speaking, the British might pass all
over the country without danger; yet some robberies had been committed
in Spain and Portugal also by banditti.
This day we halted at the village of Rosas, about two leagues from the
capital. The country is bare and hilly, and even when within half a
mile of Madrid, the traveller might fancy himself in a bare wilderness,
as the town stands isolated in the midst of a rugged plain, skirted on
the north side by distant mountains, and there is not the least sign
of traffic, with the exception of a few mules or asses loaded with
chopped straw, the usual forage (instead of hay) given to animals; all
other vegetation being parched up, and even the shallow river of the
Manzanares having at that time ceased to flow.
After the short absence of seven weeks, having travelled, as already
described, more than two hundred and thirty miles, and nearly recovered
from the effects of my fever, I rejoined our first brigade quartered in
Madrid, as well as the third division; the second brigade was stationed
two leagues from the town, in support of those troops cantoned in the
line of the Tagus. Here I received the welcome information, that since
I had quitted the division they had not seen the enemy. The troops were
quartered in the various convents and monasteries, and the officers
were billeted on the most splendid houses; many of these had white
papers stuck on the windows, to denote that the former occupiers of
them had followed the fortunes and court of _El Rey Joseph_, thereby
deserting their country's cause.
One of my friends, whom I had left under a tree, I found occupying
the house of a marquis, and decorating and perfuming himself before a
splendid toilette, previously to making his bow to the beautiful and
attractive object of all his desires, who had invited him to spend
that evening at her house. He described to me their proud entry into
Madrid as a conquering army; then the variegated drapery hanging from
the windows, the acclamations of the people, and all the beauty of the
place welcoming them, striking guitars, tambourines, and castanets,
with eyes beaming love and admiration in a manner indescribable,
known and felt only by those who have won the battle, after having
been wandering under the heaven's bright blue canopy for sixty days,
and traversing hundreds of miles over burning plains. Another officer
reposed his limbs on a bed of down, (enveloped by white satin curtains
edged with long gold bullion,) encompassed by mirrors, the whole
surmounted by a gilded helmet, adorned with a noble plume of ostrich
feathers. The rest of the furniture in this superb mansion was composed
of the most costly materials.
Madrid is a compact town; the lower windows of all the monasteries and
houses are defended by iron bars; many of the streets are spacious, and
the whole of them are remarkably clean. The Plaza Major is a square of
lofty houses, many of them stained of various colours; the windows are
very close together, out of which hang mats and drapery of a variety
of striped patterns, to shade the rooms from the mid-day sun. Here
is the principal market for vegetables and other commodities, and it
invariably presents a bustling and busy scene. The Royal Palace is
of a square form, and surrounds an interior court-yard, which has
two gateways. The grand staircase rises out of the court-yard near
the principal entrance; it is a most splendid work, wide and lofty,
leading into the principal suite of rooms, magnificently furnished. As
we passed through them, I noticed the man in charge locking the doors
after us: when, therefore, the curiosity of the admiring spectators was
satisfied, we were ushered into another, and again made prisoners for
the time being. A picture, beautifully executed, represented Napoleon
in his younger days crossing the Alps, at the head of his bare-footed
army, and was considered, by those who had seen him, to be an exact
likeness; the face was extremely handsome. The Callé Major and Alcala
are the principal streets of the town; the latter is wide and spacious,
lined by large buildings, leading direct into the _Prádo_, which is
much admired for its broad walks, divided into avenues by rows of
trees, and running the whole length of one side of the town, being
terminated at each end by gates leading from it. On the north side
stands the Buén Retiro, encompassed by temporary works, (which had
been thrown up by the French,) gardens, and pleasure grounds.
The fountains stand at certain distances from each other in the middle
of the walks, and are framed after antique models. The water from one
of them is esteemed the best in the town; the broad walk in the centre
is adorned by these cascades, and is crowded every evening by the best
company. It is here the stranger may examine, with advantage, the
costume, style, and gait of the Spanish ladies. Their dress is composed
of a mantilla or veil, gracefully thrown over the head, a long-waisted
satin body, black silk petticoats, fringed from the knee downwards,
white silk stockings, with open clocks, kid shoes, of white or black;
they carry a large fan in their little hands, which they open and shut
as they glide along; it serves to shade them from the sun, or to salute
their different acquaintances as they pass, which they do by shaking
the fan rapidly, and simpering an affable smile.
At sunset the bells of the convents and churches give notice for
offering up the evening prayer to the Virgin; instantaneously the crowd
becomes stationary, the _Caballeros_ take off their hats and remove the
cigars from their mouths, the _Señoras_ cover their faces with their
fans, while they inwardly mutter a short prayer. At the expiration
of a few minutes, the profound silence is broken, when all again are
in motion. In this place, dedicated to pleasure, our time was so
divided as to be occupied night and day, either in dancing or at the
_tertúlias_; public balls were also held twice a week at the _Callé de
Baños_ and _el Principe_.
The officers of our division were anxious to display their powers as
actors to their beloved _señoritas_; therefore, among other things,
they were occupied in ordering dresses, and studying their theatrical
parts. "The Revenge" was fixed upon as the tragedy to astonish the
Spaniards. Capt. Kent, of the rifle corps, played the part of Zanga,
in _El Teátro del Principe_, with due solemnity, and the piece went
off in silence, until he began to move backwards and forwards, like
the pendulum of a clock, his sinewy arm and clenched fist, cased in a
black silk stocking, or glove, encircled by a shining bracelet—which
caused the muleteers in the gallery to roar with laughter. The
_señoras_ tittered, and held their fans to their faces. During the
remainder of the evening poor _Zanga_ was treated more like a comic
than a tragic character, and whenever he raised his arm, which he had
frequent occasion to do, the same round of salutations greeted him on
all sides, such as "_Arré Múlo_," &c. &c. At the conclusion of the
piece, a Spaniard and a girl danced a _bolero_, in inimitable style:
both of them were habited in male attire; the black hair of the female
was clubbed up behind, and tied with a bunch of ribbons hanging down
her back; she wore a richly embroidered silk jacket, white kerseymere
breeches, fitting tight to the shape, white silk stockings, shoes, and
buckles. She rattled the _castanets_ exquisitely, and beat admirable
time with her pretty little feet.
On the 21st of October our division was hastily concentrated, and
first moved to some lonely villages, and then to Alcala de Henarez,
one of the principal universities of Spain. On the night of the 21st
the Marquis of Wellington raised the siege of the castle of Burgos,
and slowly retired on the Douro, followed by Gen. Souham. Joseph and
the Duke of Dalmatia had also formed a junction, and were making
various demonstrations on the line of the Tagus. On the 22nd, the
second division was put in motion on that river to observe the enemy's
movements. On the 24th, the third division, which had continued in
Madrid, moved towards Pinto, on the road to Aranjuez, in support of the
fourth and second divisions. On the 26th, the second division crossed
to the right bank of the Tagus, and extended its left on the Jarama.
On the same day we marched four leagues and a half from Alcala, and
entered Arganda, which is situated on the high road from Valencia.
The enemy continued to make such a variety of movements, that it was
impossible to ascertain positively whether he would attempt his grand
push on the south or east side of Madrid, which obliged General Hill to
show front on two sides of a square, for the protection of the great
roads leading towards the capital, across the rivers Tagus, Jarama, and
Henarez.
At ten o'clock at night (of the same day we had entered Arganda,) the
bugle-horns sounded the assembly, which never occurred without the
most urgent necessity, as it was not customary for the horns to sound
when manœuvring near the enemy, except under peculiar circumstances.
The orderlies usually passed round, and gave the word to _pack up and
accoutre_, no farther questions being asked either by officers or
soldiers, and all repaired to the alarm post, and patiently awaited
farther orders; and that so often without seeing an enemy, owing to
the variety of marches and countermarches in war, that such orders had
ceased to be a novelty or any surprise to us. The division soon fell
in: I had to precede the column on duty with another officer, who was
mounted on a sorry lank pony, which, on being touched on the near or
off side, kicked out with one leg at every mule that passed him, in the
most singular manner. I never recollect laughing more heartily; the
muleteers cursed and swore, and particularly one who received a severe
kick on the leg.
This class of men wear a large hat, or a pocket-handkerchief of various
colours, tied tight round the head, with the corner hanging down their
backs, and a sort of red Moorish sash round the loins, dark blue, or
green velveteen breeches, open at the knee, and leather gaiters, (with
innumerable buttons up the sides,) open in the middle, so as to show
the calf of the leg to advantage. The mules are very gaily caparisoned,
with bells at the head, and the backs closely shaved; the tails tied
up in bunch, with red or other coloured worsted binding; and when they
are loaded, the men sit on the top astride, singing boisterously. They
usually bivouac in the woods, when the day's journey is finished, cover
themselves with a tarpauling, and allow their mules to browse about all
night. These muleteers robbed the English army of hundreds of mules
during the war. I lost two myself, and, during the time the light
division was quartered in Madrid, the _ladrones_ caused false keys to
be made to fit the stable-doors, and actually, in the middle of the
day, took the animals clear off, which were never afterwards heard of.
At the end of a tedious night march, the division bivouacked in the
morning on a rising ground, about a mile from Alcala, watching the
right bank of the river Henarez, and the cross-road leading from
Arganda; the enemy, however, did not make their appearance, and at
night we entered the town. The troops lay on their arms under the
piazzas, which run through nearly all the principal streets; the
inhabitants were so fearful that we might become engaged in the
streets, that they illuminated the town for three successive nights.
On the 30th we crossed the Jarama at a bridge near St. Fernando, which
was already mined to blow up, and continued our retreat on Madrid.
A slight affair also took place more to the right, at Puente Largo,
between the van of the enemy and our troops, who had formed a junction
with us from Cadiz. The General-in-chief, on the same day, made a
movement to his left towards Ruêda, on the left of the Douro, causing
the bridges to be destroyed, right and left, on that river, to guard
his flanks, to enable him to keep open his communication with his right
wing at Madrid, and to cover its rear and left flank while retrograding
from that place, through Arevalo to Salamanca.
Towards nightfall, as we approached Madrid, a slight rain fell,
and when within a league of the town, the whole of the dismounted
cannon taken from the enemy in the _Buén Retiro_ were blown up with
a tremendous explosion, which quite convinced us that a retreat was
decided on. We hastily traversed, by column of companies, the long
walks of the _Prádo_, which reverberated with the tramping of the
soldiers' footsteps, and on passing the last gate of the town without a
halt, we observed the bright fires of a portion of our army in bivouac
on the distant hills, on the road leading to the Guadarama, which sight
completed the gloomy thoughts of many who had formed attachments, and
had, until this moment, cherished hopes of once again passing a short
time in the society of the fair objects who had captivated their hearts
in Madrid. We filed to the summit of the comfortless bleak hills, and
as our baggage did not reach us until two hours before daylight, we
passed a tolerably uncomfortable night.
At nine o'clock in the morning, with gladdened hearts, we received
orders again to advance on Madrid, but our anticipations were of short
duration, as we merely halted without the walls to cover the troops who
had been marching all night from the direction of Arganda and Aranjuez.
Many of the ladies came on the walks to take their last farewell, and
just as we were moving off, forming the rear guard, in the afternoon
of the 31st, a beautiful girl, lightly clothed, refused to leave her
lover, an English officer in the Portuguese Caçadores, who dismounted,
tied his silk handkerchief round her neck, and placed her sideways
on his horse. Towards evening the wind blew keenly, and I saw her
enveloped in a soldier's great-coat. Many females left their homes in a
similar manner with the French officers, and travelled about with the
army, on horseback, and astride, clad in uniform of the Polish lancers,
or hussars, splendidly embroidered, with crimson trowsers, made very
wide, in the Cossack fashion. The ladies of Spain frequently ride
astride, with pantaloons and hessian boots, with a habit buttoning up
before and behind, and, when they are on horseback, it is unfastened
and hangs down on each side, to conceal their legs from view.
On the 1st of November we bivouacked in the park of the Escurial, where
two wild boars galloped through the lines, and caused great confusion;
a soldier of the 52d was overturned by one of them, which bounded over
him without doing any further damage.
During the retreat the enemy did not press us, nor were our marches
unusually long; in fact, every thing went on so regularly, that
several days' march passed with merely the usual incidents. The whole
army from Burgos and Madrid were now in junction, the left marching on
the heights of St. Christoval, to cover Salamanca, and the right on
Alba de Tormes, to take up a line of defence on the right bank of the
Tormes.
On the evening of the 7th, our division reached within a league
and a half of Alba, where it drew up until temporary defences were
constructed, to resist the enemy at that small town. The country
was perfectly open, without a house or tree to be seen, and I was
contemplating the dreary prospect, and regretting the loss of my
blanket, placed under the saddle of my horse, which I had sent to
the rear, sick, on the previous morning. As the night closed on us,
the rain began to pour down in torrents; we were without food, or a
particle of wood to light fires.
Before daybreak we stood to our arms, looking out for the enemy: what
a moment for an engagement, our clothes completely soaked through!
At about eleven o'clock, the order came to retire, when we filed
through the narrow streets of Alba, and crossed the bridge, where we
found sappers hard at work, mining, and laying barrels of powder to
blow up the centre arch, if necessary. The river Tormes had swollen
considerably, owing to the torrents from the mountains: therefore the
fords became difficult and uncertain. Continuing our march on the left
of the river, we entered a dripping wood, half-way to Salamanca, when
we found our baggage waiting for us. The division being dismissed, all
the trees were filled with soldiers, cutting and tearing down huge
branches to build huts.
In a short time great fires blazed up in every direction, while
the soldiers encircled them with joyful countenances. Having been
disencumbered of our drenched clothes, and rations having been served
out, we set to work making dumplings; before dark the canteens were
laid with smoking tea, rum, hot puddings, and beef. This was, indeed,
a relishing and luxurious meal. The whole of the spirits having been
exhausted, a heavy slumber (under a tottering hut) put an end to our
carousal.
The next morning, before daylight, we were again under arms, and moved
towards Salamanca, to occupy that town with the first division and some
Spaniards. Every morning we assembled an hour before daybreak, without
its walls, waiting the approach of the enemy. I noticed the Spanish
officers invariably covering their mouths, before the sun had risen,
with their cloaks, and blowing the smoke of their cigars through their
noses.
The Duke of Dalmatia moved slowly and with great caution, and evidently
wishing, if possible, to force us to retire without coming to blows.
His army had been collected at vast trouble, and by enormous marching;
many of his troops had marched, within the last three months and a
half, over seven or eight hundred miles of ground. On the 10th, the
enemy made a strong reconnoissance in front of Alba de Tormes, but,
after a heavy firing of artillery, they drew off at finding they could
make no impression. On the 12th, some musketry was distinctly heard
in the direction of the position of San Christoval. Our division had
been dismissed as usual early in the morning, but was again formed, and
ordered to crown those heights, where we remained the whole day, the
alarm having been occasioned by a few Spanish _guerillas_ firing at the
French cavalry.
On the 14th, we all left Salamanca, and moved by the left bank of
the Tormes, on the road towards Alba de Tormes, the enemy having
crossed the river by some fords, two leagues above that town. As soon
as this movement was ascertained by the General-in-chief, he made a
reconnoissance under a fire of cannon, and found the enemy strongly
posted on the left of the Tormes, at Mozarbes; the second division
remained near Alba. In the evening our advance fell back, and the
whole army was collected in the neighbourhood of the Arapiles, and
showed front in the same direction as at the previous battle; it
was supposed during the night by every one, that a great action
would be fought on the following day. The country was illuminated
for miles around from the quantity of fires, which marked the line
of our bivouac. All hands caroused until nearly midnight, being
fully determined to make themselves happy previously to the supposed
approaching struggle; then, stretching themselves under the trees or
around the fires, they tranquilly slept until an hour before daybreak,
when we formed and stood to our arms, and were again dismissed.
At noon the baggage animals were ordered to the rear, and soon after
we observed great masses of our army, moving in dense columns from the
right by echelon of divisions towards the great forest. The enemy had
laboured hard to strengthen Mozarbes, as a _point d'appui_, under cover
of which they continued to extend their left at a distance, to outflank
our right, and to threaten our communications with Ciudad Rodrigo. At
about two o'clock in the afternoon, our division followed the movements
of the army. The rain had begun at mid-day, and now fell in torrents,
and we passed a miserable night under the trees. As soon as the road
was distinguishable in the morning, we were again on the march,
ankle-deep in mud, which tore the shoes from off the soldiers' feet;
in this manner we trudged along the whole day; towards evening we saw
the enemy on our left[43] flank, when a little cannonading took place.
One hour after nightfall, we drew up under the trees, hungry, and in
the most miserable plight; the fires were kindled with difficulty, and
while roasting on one side, we were shivering and perishing on the
other, the rain still pouring down most unmercifully, as if the very
flood-gates of the heavens had opened on us; for we were literally
flooded.
On the morning of the 17th, not having received any orders to move, we
were in groups roasting acorns to satisfy the cravings of hunger, when
an officer, who had ridden a short way to the left, came unexpectedly
on the French heavy horse, who were stealing through the wood, and
would have made a prisoner of him, had it not been for the speed of
his English horse, which was at full gallop as he passed us, calling
out, "The enemy's cavalry!" "Fall in!" "Join the ranks!" The division
were only waiting for orders to move off, and instantly seized their
arms and debouched from the wood, and formed contiguous columns, with
our horse-artillery filling up the intervals. A few of the enemy's
horse, with polished helmets, and covered with white cloaks, appeared
moving backwards and forwards amongst the trees, looking at us. Two
officers of infantry, mounted on English horses, went to reconnoitre
them, when the enemy tried to decoy them into the thicket. A troop of
light horse were formed on our left flank, with sloped swords, but
they did not throw out any skirmishers to feel the enemy in front.
After a short time, the division retired, and crossed a narrow rivulet,
and re-formed. One company of our regiment was left amongst some old
houses on the margin of the stream, when some French dragoons slowly
came forward to look at us; one in particular went to our right, as
if he intended to cross the stream, when a German hussar, (I believe
an orderly,) went towards him, and challenged the Frenchman to single
combat, provided he would cross the water. The Frenchman laughed,
and made a similar proposal to him, as he approached quite close to
the edge of the water: thereupon the German advanced, but instead of
fighting they entered into a jocular conversation, and parted very good
friends. Our division again went to the right about, and moved off
to the rear; fortunately the road continued very wide, which enabled
us to march in column of quarter distance, with screwed bayonets,
and ready to form squares. The soldiers of the division bore the wet
and privation with unexampled fortitude; nor did they lose their
organization. At three o'clock in the afternoon, things began to look
black; we heard that all the baggage had been captured, and that
Lieut.-Gen. Sir E. Paget was taken prisoner; all this having occurred
on the very road which it was absolutely necessary for us to traverse.
The Marquis of Wellington at this time joined us, and continued riding
on the left flank, and quite close to our column, for he could not
well join the main body of his army, as the enemy's horse scoured
the road, and all our cavalry had retired. It was one of the chances
of war, and could not be wondered at in a forest of such an amazing
extent, that the army was three days passing through it. The French
heavy horse continued to accompany us on each flank amongst the trees,
and frequently spoke to the soldiers in the ranks. We made two halts,
to keep the men fresh, and in good order to engage, and then resumed
a quick march, but not so rapid as to cause any soldiers to be left
behind. The column preserved a profound silence; not a shot was
discharged, for, had we begun to fire, the noise would have brought
from all quarters the enemy, who could not be aware otherwise of our
isolated march.
Just before we reached a break in the forest, at four o'clock, it
was absolutely necessary to detach a few skirmishers to prevent the
audacious French horse from almost mixing in our ranks. The enemy's
infantry were now coming up, mixed with their cavalry. Owing to the
reverberation in the wood and dense atmosphere, the report of each
musket sounded as loud as a three-pound mountain gun. The Marquis of
Wellington made a sweep round the column, to examine for the best
fighting ground, while a lively firing of musketry took place close
on the left, and in rear of our column, intermixed with the shouting
of our assailants and the whizzing of bullets. As we emerged from the
forest, to our surprise we were saluted on the left by a number of
the enemy's cannon, posted on a high hill just above San Muñoz. The
division broke into double time across the plain, about half a mile,
and made for the ford of the river Helebra. The second brigade branched
off to the right to cross elsewhere, to extend a line of defence behind
its banks. The seventh division was already formed in close columns on
the other side of the river, near San Muñoz, and suffering terribly
from the effect of the round shot.
Two squadrons of our heavy dragoons came forward to protect us over the
valley. We had no sooner reached the river, than we plunged in up to
our middles in water, (under a sharp fire of artillery,) and we were
obliged to scramble up the steep bank, (having missed the ford,) by
which the troops were thrown into a momentary malformation. While we
were forming up in a hurried manner behind the horse-artillery, who
were drawn up to protect the ford, the Marquis of Wellington rode up in
front of the left of number one company, and looked placidly at them,
saying, "The enemy must not cross here." At this moment a round-shot
carried away one of our officer's legs, and knocked a German hussar
from his horse, leaving his hands hanging by a few shreds or sinews,
notwithstanding which he got up and walked off, with an agonized
countenance, and his head bent forward, resting on his breast.
The three companies of our regiment who had been left in the opposite
wood, now issued out at full speed, pursued by the enemy, and were
obliged to run the gauntlet across the plain, with the round shot of
both armies flying over their heads. The second brigade, which had
already formed on our left, were keeping up a sharp fire of musketry,
to oppose the French crossing the river. A Portuguese regiment was
stationary, in close column, two hundred yards behind us. I saw three
cannon-balls strike in precisely the same spot, carrying away a number
of men each time. The firing of artillery and musketry continued until
after dark, and then gradually died away, when the soldiers of the
contending armies approached the river for water, and amicably chatted
to each other in their different languages.
The French infantry wore broad-toed shoes, studded with nails,
wide trowsers of Spanish brown, a brown hairy knapsack, a broad
leather-topped cap, decorated with a ball, and shining scales, and
fronted by a brazen eagle, with extended wings. In action they usually
appeared in light grey great coats, decorated with red or green worsted
epaulettes, belts outside, without any breastplates, with short
sleeves, slashed at the cuff, to enable them to handle their arms,
and prime and load with facility. Their flints were excellent, but
the powder of their cartridges coarse; that of the British army was
remarkably fine, but their flints were indifferent.
During this day the rain had held up for eight hours, but after dark
it again fell heavily. Beef was served out, without biscuit; our
cooking was speedily made, as we toasted it on ramrods. After another
wretched night, about two hours before daybreak, the soldiers began to
clean their arms, by the light of the fires, to prepare for the coming
morning. Day broke, but the enemy made no attempt to molest us, and
for two tedious hours we continued without any order to move, owing to
a stream, four hundred yards, behind us, which had detained the other
division some hours in crossing it. As we moved off, the dead and the
dying lay under the trees, (the trunks of many of them in flames,) pale
and shivering, with their bloody congealed bandages, imploring us not
to leave them in that horrible situation, in the middle of the forest
in the depth of winter. However, to attempt to afford them assistance
was impossible. Every individual had enough to do to drag himself
along, after three days' privation. The stream we had to cross was only
a few yards wide, but so deep that the soldiers were forced to cross it
by single files over a tree, which had been felled and thrown across;
had the enemy been aware of such an obstacle, we should have had a
terrible struggle at this point; but the French army had suffered so
much during the pursuit that they could no longer follow, and became
glad of a halt; and we equally glad to get rid of such disagreeable
neighbours. Numerous soldiers from the other divisions of the army,
(which retired in three columns,) fell out, and kept up a heavy firing,
right and left, in the wood at wild pigs, or any other animal they
could see. Many hundreds of these exhausted men fell into the hands of
the enemy, and when they arrived at Salamanca, _El Rey Joseph_ gave the
English prisoners a _pecéta_ each.
During this day's march the weather was fine, but the road was
overflowed, and up to the men's knees for many miles. Two hours after
dark we drew up on a bare hill, clear of the forest; the atmosphere
became frosty, but there was scarcely any wood to be obtained, and we
spent another shivering night (without rations), gazing at the starry
heavens, and counting the dreary hours.
Early on the 19th we moved off. The twentieth Portuguese regiment,
eight hundred strong, which had come from the south with Col. Skerret,
and had been attached to our division the morning we left Madrid, could
only now muster half that number of men in the ranks, owing to the cold
and not being accustomed to campaigning; and they were obliged to fall
out of the column of march to halt for their stragglers. The light
division still continued in wonderfully good order, and reached Rodrigo
on that day, and bivouacked a mile from the walls of the town, without
suffering scarcely any loss, except from the enemy's balls the day
they were engaged.
Six divisions of the army entered Portugal for winter cantonments; the
second division crossed the Sierra de Gata, and took up its quarters
in the vicinity of Coria, in Spanish Estremadura, and the light
division remained near Rodrigo, on the left bank of the Agueda; the
head-quarters of the first brigade being at Gallegos, and those of the
second brigade at Fuente de Guinaldo.
The Marquis of Wellington established his head-quarters at Frenada, in
Portugal, as usual. There Señor Fuentes, a good-looking Spaniard, used
to play on the guitar, and sing romances. One air in particular I well
remember hearing him sing at a dinner party at Gallegos; it was also
sung by the Spanish _muchachas_ in all the _puéblos_ and hamlets, soon
after the Duke of Ragusa's defeat at Salamanca. The conclusion of each
stanza was as follows:—
Adónde vayas Marmont? Adónde vayas Marmont,
Tan tempráno de a mañana? Si te cogé Vellington;
Ah! Marmont, Marmont, Marmont!
[Footnote 43: On the right as we were retiring, but, when we faced
about, on the left flank, _à la militaire_.]