Amsterdam.--The road to Utrecht.--Country-houses and gardens.--Neat
enclosures.--Comfortable parties.--Ladies and Lapdogs.--Arrival at
Utrecht.--Moravian establishment--The woods.--Shops.--Celestial
love.--Musical Sempstresses.--Return to Utrecht.
Utrecht, 2d July, 1780.
Well, thank Heaven! Amsterdam is behind us; how I got thither signifies
not one farthing; it was all along a canal, as usual. The weather was
hot enough to broil an inhabitant of Bengal; and the odours, exhaling
from every quarter, sufficiently powerful to regale the nose of a
Hottentot.
Under these pungent circumstances we entered the great city. The
Stadt-huys being the only cool place it contained, I repaired thither as
fast as the heat permitted, and walked in a lofty marble hall,
magnificently coved, till the dinner was ready at the inn. That
despatched, we set off for Utrecht. Both sides of the way are lined
with the country-houses and gardens of opulent citizens, as fine as gilt
statues and clipped hedges can make them. Their number is quite
astonishing: from Amsterdam to Utrecht, full thirty miles, we beheld no
other objects than endless avenues and stiff parterres scrawled and
flourished in patterns like the embroidery of an old maid’s work-bag.
Notwithstanding this formal taste, I could not help admiring the
neatness and arrangement of every inclosure, enlivened by a profusion of
flowers, and decked with arbours, beneath which a vast number of
consequential personages were solacing themselves after the heat of the
day. Each lusthuys we passed contained some comfortable party dozing
over their pipes, or angling in the muddy fish-ponds below. Scarce an
avenue but swarmed with female josses; little squat pug-dogs waddling at
their sides, the attributes, I suppose, of these fair divinities.
But let us leave them to loiter thus amiably in their Elysian groves,
and arrive at Utrecht; which, as nothing very remarkable claimed my
attention, I hastily quitted to visit a Moravian establishment at Ziest,
in its neighbourhood. The chapel, a large house, late the habitation of
Count Zinzendorf, and a range of apartments filled with the holy
fraternity, are totally wrapped in dark groves, overgrown with weeds,
amongst which some damsels were straggling, under the immediate
protection of their pious brethren.
Traversing the woods, we found ourselves in a large court, built round
with brick edifices, the grass-plats in a deplorable way, and one ragged
goat, their only inhabitant, on a little expiatory scheme, perhaps, for
the failings of the fraternity. I left this poor animal to ruminate in
solitude, and followed my guide into a series of shops furnished with
gew-gaws and trinkets said to be manufactured by the female part of the
society. Much cannot be boasted of their handy-works: I expressed a wish
to see some of these industrious fair ones; but, upon receiving no
answer, found this was a subject of which there was no discourse.
Consoling myself as well as I was able, I put myself under the guidance
of another slovenly disciple, who showed me the chapel, and harangued
very pathetically upon celestial love. In my way thither, I caught a
glimpse of some pretty sempstresses, warbling melodious hymns as they
sat needling and thimbling at their windows above. I had a great
inclination to approach this busy group, but the roll of a brother’s eye
corrected me.
Reflecting upon my unworthiness, I retired from the consecrated
buildings, and was driven back to Utrecht, not a little amused with my
expedition. If you are as well disposed to be pleased as I was, I shall
esteem myself very lucky, and not repent sending you so hasty a
narrative.