year the snow lies on the ground. The night indeed which we passed in
their village was so sensibly cold that all our warmest clothes were
brought into use, before we could get ourselves tolerably comfortable.
In a general view of our route, I should think that we had been rising
for some time. The country was in a state of internal warfare, which
however did not interfere with the passage of strangers. In the village
there was then from _Janik_ one of JUSUFF PACHA’S _Tuffenchee Bashees_,
or captains, who with fifty followers was feeding at the expence of
the peasantry. CHAPPAN OGLU was the principal object of terror in the
neighbourhood; his troops had lately fired the _Bazar_ of _Niksar_,
which is under the jurisdiction of HAZNADAR OGLU, Governor of _Janik_.
4th. of July. From _Isker Sou_ we went to _Niksar_. We were seven hours
on the road on a bearing of West, which, from the unequal surface
of the country, may be reckoned at twenty-one miles. About one mile
and a half from _Isker Sou_ we came to a wooden bridge over a small
stream, which is the termination of the Government of _Arz-roum_;
when therefore a _Pacha_ is appointed, the ceremony of sacrificing is
performed at this spot. After this we passed several villages on all
sides, but totally abandoned by their inhabitants, who had taken refuge
in the different countries against the depredations of the _Delhis_,
and the occasional visits of the soldiers of CHAPPAN OGLU. There is a
village immediately at the pass (where we entered the mountains); and
here commenced a series of mountain scenery, of the wildest and most
romantic character. No description is adequate to paint the brilliancy
and luxuriance of vegetation, and the picturesque forms of this region;
and few imaginations are sufficiently fertile to supply the idea of a
spring in these mountains. Trees of every denomination grow here in the
wildest profusion, whilst their roots are embalmed by the odour of
myriads of flowers. The oak here is but an indifferent tree; but there
are walnut and plane-trees, pines and firs of a fine growth. Yet lovely
as the spring was here, the cold on the mountains is said to be intense
in winter; and even where we crossed the highest part of the range we
were enveloped some time in clouds, which came from the North, and
which now and then broke in frequent and sharp showers.
The descent to _Niksar_ continues for three hours, and in some places
is rapid. The road winds through the thickest shrubbery, and at its
extremity is a collection of lofty plane-trees, which form a fine
shade to recruit the traveller after the tedious length of the hills.
About an hour before we reached _Niksar_ we discovered the town,
situated in a valley, and, in the back-ground, a plain watered by
the _Kelki Irmak_, the stream which we had followed under another
name near _Carahissar_, and which empties itself into the river of
_Amasia_, and thus is carried into the Black Sea. The approaches to
_Niksar_ exceeded, if possible, in beauty and rich vegetation those to
_Carahissar_. The corn here again was quite ripe, and we got cherries
and mulberries.
_Niksar_[44] is a long town crowned by a ruined fort of considerable
extent; the walls and towers appear works of the Saracenic age, and at
a distance still constitute a picturesque object; though they might now
afford but a sorry and impotent defence. A stream from the hills rushes
through the valley, and turns the wheels of many mills for cutting the
pines into planks. The houses here are no longer terraced; their roofs
are mostly of wood, shelving and covered with tiles.
5th. From _Niksar_ to _Tocat_ is nine hours, on a bearing of S. 60 W.
a distance which I place at thirty miles. On quitting the town the
road continues through a variety of fine landscapes, and then comes to
the banks of the _Kelki Irmak_, which here flows from S. to N. After
much delay, and an ineffectual attempt to ford, we passed this river
in a boat, which could receive at once only a few of our party, and a
small portion of our equipage, and which was still more unequal to the
numbers of the peasantry crowding into it, anxious to cross the water,
with hoes, sickles and spades to their daily labour on the opposite
side.
We then traversed a very rich country, the yellow appearance of which
announced the approach of harvest. In the plain were large plantations
of rice. We now entered the pass between the mountains which leads
to _Tocat_, and which here bore W. from _Niksar_. On the right is a
small village; the pass then narrows into a road delightfully shaded
by a wild profusion of trees, whilst a continual rushing of water over
a number of small cascades, refreshes the air, and gives a new charm
to the scenery around. At the extremity of this pass are one or two
villages; and the road afterwards quits the shade of the trees, and
crosses a more open country.
Three hours before we reached _Tocat_, we came to the bed of a river,
flowing in the direction of our road, and enlivening a rich country
of corn, which was then all ripe. On the right of the road, about
four miles before the end of our journey, is a rock with excavated
chambers[45]; one of which has an ornamented front. Soon after we had
a view of the great town of _Tocat_, situated in the hollow of two
mountains, in its first appearance considerably diminished below its
real size. As we approached, we crossed the river over a large and
solid bridge of five arches; and then came to a paved road, shaded
here and there by the foliage of immense walnut-trees. The surrounding
territory is very rich in corn, besides a number of enclosures
abounding in fruit-trees of every description. We eat here, as at
_Carahissar_, the largest and finest cherries that I ever saw.
The _Musselim_ of this place is appointed at _Constantinople_. The
person, who at the time of our arrival filled the office, took no part
in the quarrels of the chiefs, who were fighting all around him; and
seemed indeed to care little about his own government. When it was
announced to him that an _Elchee_ from Persia was about visiting his
town on the way to the presence of his sovereign, and required his
good offices; he said, that the _Elchee_ if he chose might take up
his lodgings in a _caravanserai_; that he should have as many horses
as he might want to convey him away; but as for the rest, he himself
could do nothing more for us. We had hitherto experienced, in general,
more hospitality, but we now accordingly took up our quarters in a
_caravanserai_ on the _Maidan_, and very conveniently lodged ourselves
and cattle.
6th. _Tocat_ is situated on the declivity of three hills, whose bases
join. To the Westward it is overlooked by the ruins of a fort, so
completely dilapidated, that its remains are scattered unconnectedly
over the surface of the rock on which they stand. To the north is a
large open spot or _Maidan_; on one side of which is an excellent
_caravanserai_ called the _Vaivoda-Khan_, and on the other, a very
good and well-built mosque. In the centre of the town there is another
mosque of equal beauty. The town is said to contain about twenty
thousand houses, or one hundred thousand inhabitants. The _bazars_
here are very numerous, and every thing common to Turkey and its wants
seemed to be here in plenty. The Armenian merchants complained to us
indeed of the great dearth of trade, and particularly of that part
of it which is connected with the mines. Those mines, which are at
_Kebban_, eight days journey from _Tocat_, and nearer to _Malatia_
than to any other great town, produce, (besides silver which is sent
to _Constantinople_,) between one hundred and one hundred and fifty
thousand _okes_ of copper annually, which comes unwrought to _Tocat_,
and is there made up in cakes. The works indeed connected with copper,
and which occupy about three hundred shops, are the only particular
manufactures, for which the town is noted. From these the copper wares
are dispersed through all parts of Turkey.
In the evening of the 7th we continued our journey. We left the city
on the same road by which we had entered; and, crossing the bridge,
traversed a plain about five miles broad and fifteen long, where the
harvest was fully ripe, over one of the richest corn countries that
can be imagined. The distance of our stage to _Turkhal_ was about
twenty-five miles, on a general bearing of W. This large village
comes abruptly to the view, and is remarkable principally as being
built about a high rock, which stands isolated from the surrounding
mountains, and on the extreme summit of which is the ruin of a fort.
The village itself extends round the rock to the Westward. The _Tozzan
Irmak_ that flows from _Tocat_, passes close to the place from S. to
N. At _Turkhal_, though we were housed in a _caravanserai_ (there
called _khan_), our expences were defrayed by the _Cazi_ of the
place. He had been informed of the treatment which we had received
from the _Musselim_ of _Tocat_, and told us that he would spend his
hundred purses rather than we should experience a similar reception
from his hands. Finding ourselves however uncomfortably situated in
the _caravanserai_, (where, besides our baggage and servants, were
our horses) we sought refuge in the garden of a hospitable Turk, who
permitted us to spread our carpets on a raised platform under a tree,
and helped us without limit to the mulberries and apricots which grew
around. But we had not sat there long, before we were surprised by a
heavy shower of rain and hail, which obliged us once more to retire
to our heated _caravanserai_. There are very large water wheels here,
which are used for irrigating the gardens and fields of the place, and
which are turned by the fine river that runs through the village.
Close to the mosque is a large corn mill, which also is worked by two
large wheels.
We proceeded from _Turkhal_ in the evening, and travelled for the
distance of six hours. On passing through two masses of rock, which in
the obscurity of the night were extremely grand, we espied a strong
light, illuminating a hut and two or three lofty pine-trees. This
was one of the guard-houses, called _durand_, which are stationed at
the interval of about four hours, and are common to the territory of
CHAPPAN OGLU. They are at once places of security and rest. There
is generally a party of eight or ten men kept in them to watch over
the safety of the roads. This one, which we were approaching, was
peculiarly picturesque. The _Tatars_, the _Mirza_, and I, dismounted
from our horses; whilst we permitted the rest of our caravan to
proceed. We entered an enclosure of stone-walls, built at the foot of a
high pine-tree. In one corner blazed an immense fire. An old Turk, who
received us, immediately spread goat’s-skins for our seats; whilst a
young man prepared to give us coffee. He first placed the water to boil
on the outer-embers of the fire, and then begun to pound the coffee
in a wooden vase, which he continued with much activity to a sort of
musical stroke, until the whole was beat into an impalpable powder. He
then put the pounded coffee into the water, and boiled it up three or
four times; when he poured it into his coffee cup, kept neatly bright,
on a circular platter. We then resumed our march, and in six hours
from _Turkhal_ made a halt at a large _caravanserai_ where we slept in
the open air until the morning. The _caravanserai_ was an extensive
building, of strong materials and in good repair. Besides ourselves
there were many peasants with their carts drawn by buffaloes, who were
waiting the dawn of day to proceed on their journey. Our route led over
a mountainous country, till we descended towards _Amasia_, through a
narrow pass bordered on each side by rocks of a surprising size. The
opening was not seen, until we were close upon it, when it formed a
beautiful and curious picture. The approaches to _Amasia_ from this
side are very striking. On the right is a long chain of heights, which
appear in many places to have been worked by the hand of man. Close to
the road, and at the foot of these mountains, is a deep channel cut
into the rock, which extends at least two miles, and is traced up to
the river. It is unquestionably the bed of an aqueduct, and has been
the work of immense labour, for the masses, through which in some
places it is carried, are of a prodigious thickness.
On the left in the valley below, are detached houses, embosomed in
gardens and orchards. These are planted with fruit-trees of every kind,
and when we passed, were in full perfection. In this direction the
city of _Amasia_ is hardly seen until almost its very entrance. The
approach is extremely grand; and every step prepares the stranger for a
view which his imagination has already pictured as sublime; and which
realizes every expectation.
CHAP. XVIII.
AMASIA TO CONSTANTINOPLE.
AMASIA: EXCAVATIONS--MARCIVAN--OSMANJIK--PRECIPICES:
ROAD OF THE GENOESE--TOSIA--THE DELHIS--CHERKES:
REMAINS--STORM--GEREDÉH--IMPORTANCE OF THE TATARS--PERSIAN
DRESS--INSCRIPTION--BOLI: FOREST: GUARDS OF THE MOUNTAINS: TIMBER
FOR THE ARSENALS--LANDSCAPES: KHANDACK; OUTLAWS--SABANJA: CAUSEWAY;
LAKE--ISMID--GEVISA--CONSTANTINOPLE.
_Amasia_ is situated in the recess of an amphitheatre of strong
featured lands, which arise almost abruptly from the banks of a
beautiful stream, the _Tozzan Irmak_, that winds majestically at their
roots. The houses are built on either side, on the gradations of the
declivities; and the town extends itself all around. On the North,
situated in the highest and most conspicuous part of the mountains, is
the castle, which appeared to me much in ruins; and on the same portion
of land, just upwards from the boundaries of the town, are five very
conspicuous monuments cut into the rock. I crossed the river over a
stone bridge, and ascended the mountain in which they were excavated,
escorted and guided by a young Turk. We passed by the ruins of a fort
built upon a projecting part of the range, and came to three excavated
chambers. The first has a triangular ornamented front. The others have
platforms before them, and a vestibule cut into the rock behind. We
then proceeded on towards the left, and arrived at the two largest
excavations. A path of about three feet in breadth, cut deep within the
front of the mass into the appearance of a covered gallery, and guarded
by a parapet wall of solid rock, leads along the side of the mountain.
One of these monuments is a mass of hard granite twelve paces square,
severed completely from the mountain by an interval (about four feet
broad) all around and above it, and excavated into a chamber. The other
contiguous and last monument has no passage behind or around. These
chambers are said to have been the retreats of ST. CHRYSOSTOM;[46]
but I could discover no inscription upon them, which might throw any
light upon the subject. In the castle above indeed, my young conductor
told me there were not only inscriptions but sculptures; but my time
would not permit me to ascend, and I had now only a momentary leisure
to enjoy the beauty of the view; where was the town arranged all about
me, the river winding at my feet and struggling under numerous water
wheels, and the whole scenery enriched by the last rays of the setting
sun. The minarets of many mosques, (of which one near the river is a
very fine building,) break the sameness of the flat-tiled roofs.
The inhabitants of _Amasia_ are distinguished for their urbanity and
attention to strangers; and their women particularly are celebrated
as the fairest and most engaging of _Asia Minor_. Of this I had but a
single and chance opportunity to form a judgment: in riding through the
streets, I saw an unveiled female who was joking at the door of her
house with a black slave girl, and who was more beautiful than any whom
I had long seen; nor as I passed did she shrink from my observation,
for our curiosity was equal. We had a lodging assigned to us in the
dwelling of an opulent Turk, close on the banks of the river. He had
three brothers who lived in three houses contiguous to his own, and
who severally came to pay their respects to us. They were all fairer
than any Turks or Asiatics whom I had ever seen. Their manners were
peculiarly mild and agreeable, and they treated us with the greatest
civility. They spoke in raptures of their own city, although none of
them had ever seen any other place.
I was anxious to reach _Constantinople_ as soon as possible, and
resolved therefore to leave the Persian Envoy to follow at his leisure,
and to proceed myself with increased expedition. Taking fresh horses
then, I set off from _Amasia_ at the close of the night. There is an
ascent of two hours towards _Marcivan_; and then, as far as I could
judge in the dark, the road leads through one uniform plain. The
total distance from _Amasia_ is reckoned twelve miles, which we had
travelled two hours before the sun rose. [11th.] _Marcivan_ abounds
with walnut-trees, and is surrounded by corn fields, which, as we were
leaving the place at break of day, were animated by the reapers.
Four hours from _Marcivan_, on the left of the road is the large
village of _Haji Kieu_, where the great caravan roads from _Smyrna_,
_Angora_, &c. meet. Shortly after we came to a house where travellers
usually stop; but the inhabitants had now fled to the mountains, in
consequence of the passage of the _Delhis_; and we found only one old
man, who brought us some _yaourt_ and cold _pillau_, and some bread
that had been concealed. Then again proceeding, we struck into a steep
mountain pass, at the foot of which led a torrent strewed with immense
fragments of rocks, that (by an earthquake, or by the washing away of
the soil beneath them) had been dislodged from the heights around: and
vast masses, which seemed to threaten our destruction as we passed,
were still sustained only by large poles or trunks of trees.
After this pass we entered into a rich but limited plain, thickly
studded with trees of every kind, and abounding in corn. At its
extremity we stopped at a delicious grove of immense walnut-trees
beautifully watered. In this charming spot was encamped a _bayrack_
or company of soldiers going from _Marcivan_ on their road towards
_Constantinople_. The passage of this species of troops is not dreaded
by the country, as they are composed of respectable men, who go to the
war through a spirit of religion.
From an eminence on the road we first discovered the rock of
_Osmanjik_, forming a striking point amid the green and lively scenery
of the plain. On this aspect no part of the town of _Osmanjik_ appears,
except a few houses on the skirts of the rock. The bridge, indeed,
which leads out of the place is a conspicuous object in the view. On
a nearer approach, that which at a distance appeared an immense black
mass is found to be broken into several detached heights, all of the
same species of stone, and all originally connected by the art of man
into one impregnable fortress. The walls and turrets, which still
cover the various surfaces, appear the remains of Saracenic work.
_Osmanjik_ in its present state is only a large village; the distance
from _Marcivan_ is reckoned a march of fourteen hours. The plain around
is cultivated principally with corn and vines; it is thickly wooded
and well watered by the _Kizzil Irmak_, the ancient _Halys_, in its
course to the W. The river is a deep yellow bordering on the colour of
sand, and very much troubled. We crossed it over a well-built bridge of
fourteen arches, the materials of which (still white and fresh) attest
that it was a structure of the best times of the Government. Four
arches on the left are dry, the earth having encroached upon the bed so
substantially, that houses and gardens exist now where the water once
flowed.
The passage of the _Delhis_ through this place was marked with peculiar
acts of hostility. The inhabitants, who found themselves outraged
by their insolence, actually came to blows with them; and, when at
length the troops departed, for several days kept closed the wooden
gate on their bridge, until the soldiers were completely out of their
neighbourhood.
We departed from _Osmanjik_ about an hour before sun-set, and paced
the banks of the _Halys_ as far as our next stage _Haji Hamza_, called
eight hours from _Osmanjik_. The scenery of the river appears to
partake of every quality which can make landscape admirable. Very fine
lands rise above it; along which, still following the stream in all
its windings, the road is carried, presenting to the travellers at
every reach new and striking pictures. Here and there we came to fine
collections of walnut-trees; and then crossed large plantations of
rice, which, for the facility of irrigation, were situated immediately
on the borders of the water. At about two hours from _Osmanjik_ we
turned to the left, and ascended a very steep part of the mountains,
on a broad paved road, which, as far as the dusk of the evening
permitted me to observe, seemed good. On reaching the extreme eminence,
I perceived that we were on the brink of an immense precipice, under
which the river was winding; and that we were enclosed on all sides
by stupendous heights. The obscurity and stillness of the night gave
a solemnity to the scene which I cannot describe. We continued along
this precipice, viewing the same grandeur of scenery for some time, but
in perfect security: for we were travelling on a road of a smooth and
easy surface, and guarded on the side of the danger by a parapet wall.
My _Janizary_ told me that the road was cut into the vivid rock by the
Genoese. He was probably right in the materials, as in the present age
nothing but rock would have been in so good order: perhaps he was right
also in the founders, to whom he ascribed the original work; but the
darkness prevented my forming any judgment of the correctness of his
information.
We came to _Haji Hamza_ in the dead of the night. The post-house is on
the banks of the river. There are few other habitations, except indeed
the fort. We had scarcely taken the rest of an hour, when we were again
on our horses, on the road to _Tosia_, called a distance of twelve
hours. We came to _Tosia_ about four hours after sun-rise, after having
met several caravans, the mules of which were the finest that I had
seen in the country. In fact, the mules of Turkey, and particularly in
this part of it, are much larger and finer limbed than any of the sort
in Persia. So that the _Mirza_, when we were travelling together, was
on the point of buying several as a present for the King, declaring
that His Majesty had none of equal beauty.
_Tosia_ is a large town situated among beautiful environs on the slope
of a hill, and presents itself in its whole extent intermixed with
several handsome mosques. The post-house is just on the skirts of the
town.
We proceeded from _Tosia_ to _Coja Hissar_, distant eight hours. On
leaving _Tosia_ we entered on an amphitheatre of land, rising in gentle
acclivities all around, cultivated more richly than I can describe. The
bed of the valley was one layer of corn fields, fenced off by hedges of
evergreens and fine trees. We then came to large plantations of rice,
and extensive tracts of vineyards. The road was beautifully shaded on
both sides, until we came to a station of guards of the mountains,
where we entered their waste district, and quitted the cultivation. We
reached _Coja Hissar_ about three hours before sun-set. I went into
the coffee-house attached to the post-house; and after having eat some
soup and meat-balls,[47] I laid myself down to sleep. We had heard that
two thousand of the _Delhis_ were encamped in the neighbourhood, about
two hours distant from the place; and accordingly determined to pass
them in the night. Little sleep is necessary to the body: when I was
awakened by my _Janizary_, just at the dusk of the evening, I thought
that it was the grey of the morning, and that I had slept through the
night; and I upbraided him therefore with laziness, for not having
proceeded as we had agreed the night before. I felt as refreshed with
the three hours rest, as if I had slept undisturbed through a whole
night, although I had taken no sleep since I had left _Amasia_, except
what had been forced upon me when on my horse. Though sleep will
certainly overcome us in defiance of all our efforts, a few minutes
suffice; and when the strongest paroxysm is over, refresh indeed as
much as hours in bed. We are seldom aware how little food and how
little sleep are necessary for health and strength.