were gathering over the mountains; and as the night closed, we now and
then only got a glimpse of a star. This proved very favourable to us,
for we had not rode long before we discovered the numerous fires of the
_Delhis_ that illuminated the whole of the country to a considerable
distance. They were encamped on the opposite side of the river to
that on which our road lay, so that guarded by the water and by the
darkness, we passed them without being challenged by a single one.
On the 13th, about one o’clock in the morning, we reached _Carajol_,
a distance of eight hours; and departed again to _Carajalar_, distant
four hours. It is remarkable that the country from _Carajol_ is
entirely destitute of trees; losing, as it were by magic, all that
variety of foliage which characterizes the preceding region. We were
detained at _Carajalar_, from the morning till the evening, by a
deficiency of horses. Although we gave five _piastres_ for the hire
of each, yet it was not till we had witnessed a scene of strife and
contention amongst the villagers, in which there was some blood shed,
that we were supplied. The post-house had been broken up for some time
past; and the burthen, in consequence fell upon the people, who, in
their several turns, furnished the travellers with horses at the rate
of five _piastres_ each; though on every emergency there was a similar
difficulty to enforce the regular levy in succession. As I was waiting
for my horses, a deputation from this village returned, which had been
sent to the Chief of the _Delhis_ for the purpose of offering him a
certain sum of money, in case he did not remain there with his troops
longer than one night. The object was attained, though I could not
learn the amount of the stipulated payment. In this manner the _Bey_
commanding the _Delhis_ enriches himself during his march.
At length, after having collected my horses from various quarters,
I departed for _Geredéh_, distant sixteen hours. At six hours from
_Carajalar_ is a large town called _Cherkes_, situated in a plain,
environed by some pretty groupes of trees. It is surrounded by a wall,
and on entering one of the gates, I casually observed on the outside
a Greek inscription in good character, carved on a stone which formed
the lowermost part of the arch. On quitting the place I noticed on the
road side, at several intervals, shafts of small columns terminated on
either side by a plinth and tores, and apparently erected as monuments
in places of burial; for all around were spread other blocks of stone,
more obviously designed to cover graves. As the night closed we
deviated from the road to avoid _Hamanlee_, the town and fortress of a
man (HAJEE AHMET OGLU,) who, being a rebel to the Porte, is always in
arms; and whose parties (patroling the hills in watch for his safety)
infest the whole country, and sometimes have not spared travellers.
Instead, therefore, of ascending the mountain, we turned to the left
through a valley. There was every appearance of a storm as the night
fell; and our apprehensions were soon realized. We were overtaken in
the open country by one of the severest tempests of rain, thunder,
and lightning, that I ever witnessed. Our horses refused to proceed,
and turned their backs instinctively to the storm. The whole country
was lighted by the flashes, which, ceasing at intervals, left us in
impenetrable darkness. I can bear witness in this instance to the
excellence of English broad cloth, a cloak of which preserved me from
the heaviest torrents of rain, whilst my _Janizary_, who had a Turkish
cloak made of a species of felt, was drenched from head to foot. After
the storm had expended itself, we proceeded, till we reached the skirts
of a village, where we fed our horses, and slept for an hour on the wet
grass. 14th. The morning broke with unusual splendour, and introduced
a most romantic country to us. We had now ascended to a region, the
elevation of which was marked very sensibly by the increase of the
cold, and by the tardiness of vegetation in comparison to that of the
plains below. The peasantry were here ploughing the ground; and some
delightful patches of cultivation were interspersed amongst the ranges
of pines and other forest trees, that covered the summits and enlivened
the declivity of the mountains.
_Geredéh_ is a large town; at the entrance is a very extensive tannery.
The shops and coffee-houses of the _bazars_ seemed also well peopled
by a great number of well-looking Turks, sitting down and enjoying
themselves with their pipes. We had been taught to apprehend here also
a second detention for horses, from the great number of _Tatars_ who
had been passing. One of them indeed had just preceded us; and had left
us a part of his meal of fried eggs and soup. The _Tatars_ look upon
themselves as great personages on the road; and expect proportionate
attention at the post-houses, which, as I observed, was scarcely ever
denied to them. The _Tatar_ who accompanied me was so tenacious of
this consequence of his class, that he always took the best things for
himself, and treated me as his inferior. Whenever he arrived, a soft
seat and a cushion were spread for him, and, as he lighted his pipe,
a dish of coffee was prepared for him; whilst to me he transferred an
indifferent seat and the second dish. The fact is, indeed, that my
appearance bespoke very little of the master; and I could hardly wonder
therefore that the _Tatar_ was treated with all the respect which I
might have expected as due to myself. My black skin cap was become very
dusty; my silk trowsers were all torn; my Persian boots were soaked
with rain and twisted under the heel; whilst my coat and great coat
were all in dirt and in rags. As I did not wish to travel in my own
character, knowing how extravagantly _Frangees_ (and Englishmen in
particular) are made to pay, I was well content to pass for a Persian:
and the little notice that was thus taken of one looking so miserable,
gave me liberty to walk about and make my observations at my ease.
Of all this contrast of our appearance however, my _Tatar_ profited;
travelling as a gentleman at my expence, whilst I as easily passed for
his attendant.
[Illustration: _PLATE XXIX._
_N^o. 6. From Boli._
_N^o. 1. From Shapour p. 87._
_Two Colossal figures on horseback: figures on the right._
_N^o. 3. Sculptures at Nakshi Rustam p. 127._
_Greek Inscription on the rock under the Horses belly nearly
obliterated: then the following_
_N^o. 2. From the first Sculpture to the N. at Nakshi Rustam p. 126._
_N^o. 4. Inscription on the Windows of the Rock p. 128._
_N^o. 5. Inscription at Mesjed Madré Suleiman, p. 144._
_Published by Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme & Brown,
May 1^{st}, 1811._]
From _Geredéh_ to _Boli_ is twelve hours. On quitting _Geredéh_ we
crossed one of the most beautiful regions that I had ever seen. It
was a continual garden of vineyards and corn-fields, shaded by
walnut and oak trees, growing here to a greater size than any that
I had hitherto found in the country. At very frequent intervals, on
each side of the road, were large collections of blocks of stone, of
different shapes, squares, oblongs, and pillars of five or six feet
high: several with Greek inscriptions upon them. That these spots
were ancient places of burial is more certain, because there are now
mixed among them many modern tomb-stones. There are two inscriptions
near the _durand_ or guard-house: one, on a column on the left of the
road; and one, inserted in a wall on the right. I did not care for the
chance of decyphering them to stop the rapid progress of our journey,
(for we now went generally on a full gallop;) but on coming up to a
very conspicuous pillar on the side of the road near a fountain, I
could not neglect the opportunity of copying it, (see plate XXIX.)
while our horses were drinking. It was terminated by a cross, which was
an evidence that the monument had some connection with the primitive
Christians. I wished much to have taken the other inscriptions; as, in
general, they seemed legible; but I found that any notice of Greek was
incompatible with the character of a Persian, and might have excited a
suspicion of my disguise. As we approached _Boli_, the beauty of the
country and the richness of cultivation increased. The plain, in which
the town is situated, is quite a garden; and was then displaying all
the lively green of the height of spring, except where the ripened
corn broke in upon the general verdure. The quantity of rain, that
had so lately fallen, had left this brilliant freshness on nature;
but, even without this extraordinary supply, there is never any dearth
of water. _Boli_, on the side by which we approached it, is not seen
until we enter its very streets, as it is situated behind a hill. It
is a large place surrounded by an open palisade, which indeed is its
only defence. From the appearance of the streets and _bazars_ the
place is well peopled. As we galloped into the town in the true haste
and style of couriers with our _surujees_ (or conductors), making a
kind of hideous noise to announce our approach, a company of Turkish
soldiers, with colours flying (and preceded by a man beating a sort
of little kettle drum tied to his middle) entered at a very slow and
admirably-contrasted pace.
We departed from _Boli_ in the evening; and, having quitted its
delightful plain, begun to wind among mountains, and entered the large
forest to which _Boli_ gives its name. Through the whole there is a
fine causeway made by some pious Mussulman[48], which is a sufficient
guide to the traveller if he will only follow it through all its
windings. The _Tatars_ prefer the side to the road itself; though the
path which they thus make for themselves may be full of water and
mud. We chose the same, even when it was dark; for of the two evils,
the fatigue of wading is less to the horses and mules, than that of
scrambling and stumbling over the pavement.
Having rode six hours through the forest we reached a small wooden
hut, the station of the guards of the mountains. Here we determined to
wait till morning, as my _Tatar_ told me that the forest grew so much
thicker as we advanced, that in so dark a night it became dangerous to
proceed. We unloaded therefore our baggage, and seated ourselves among
a party of a dozen Turks, the chief of whom, a merry fellow, did the
honours of his hut very agreeably. He was seated in the corner, and his
men were strewed around him on the floor. Pistols, swords and muskets,
and every implement of a soldier, were hung along the walls. Whilst the
oldest of the party made some coffee for us, the youngest took down a
rude guitar from a peg, and broke the stillness of the night by a song,
to which he applied the whole force of his lungs, and which did not
ill express the wild life of himself and his companions. I attempted
to compose myself to sleep in a corner, but the heat of an immense
wood-fire had given so much animation and impertinence to the fleas and
vermin of the hut, that I was obliged to take refuge in an open shed
on the outside, where I slept very soundly till the morning.
15th. As the morning broke, we proceeded on our journey, and penetrated
the deeps of the forest. The road, in some of its windings through the
rich woodland, presented some of the most fanciful and picturesque
landscapes that the imagination of a painter could wish. I remarked
some of the finest specimens of ash, elm, plane, poplar, larch and
beech; with, now and then, some oaks larger than any that I had
ever seen in Asia. This forest, which extends over a vast tract of
country[49], supplies an unceasing source of timber to the arsenals
of _Constantinople_. Their mode of felling the tree is susceptible of
much improvement; for they first burn it towards the root, (by which
they injure the finest part of the wood) and then apply the axe. In our
progress we overtook immense spars which were dragged by buffaloes,
and by slow journies are thus brought to _Constantinople_. Each end is
supported on a light carriage of two wheels; but it requires all the
prodigious strength of the buffaloe (and no other animal is equal to
the attempt) to be able to cope with the difficulties which the extreme
badness of the roads in the rainy season presents. We heard the howling
of wolves all around us; and their great numbers are sometimes fatal to
those travellers, who risk themselves at night through the wilds of the
forest.
_Khandak_, our next stage, twelve miles from _Boli_, is famed for the
ferocity and wild freedom of its inhabitants. It is a village situated
in the very heart of the forest, and its first appearance presents
all the beauty that an intermixture of wood, water, cultivation, and
buildings can combine. The low houses, with their shelving roofs nicely
tiled, at the foot of lofty trees, (with partial openings here and
there, where murmured a stream of pure water); still more enlivened
by the most picturesque looking men and women, really formed a
landscape which a CLAUDE, a HOBBIMA, or a RUYSDAEL would have envied.
We soon discovered however the temper of the inhabitants: all the men
and even boys of ten years old, wore a brace of pistols, and a large
knife in their girdles; and displayed countenances more expressive
of savage hardihood than I recollect to have ever seen. This horde
of desperadoes is extremely obnoxious to the Porte; but, entrenched
in their woods, they bid defiance to _firmans_ or _Capidgi Bashees_.
Within these few years (and the fresh appearance of the houses attests
the fact) an officer from _Constantinople_ was sent with a large body
of men to surprise the inhabitants, and either to destroy them or
take them prisoners; but they had notice of the design, and fled into
the fastnesses of the woods, leaving their homes as the prey of the
invaders, who immediately burnt them to the ground, destroying all the
poor creatures that happened to fall into their way. No sooner however
had the troops of the Porte quitted the territory than the natives
returned, cleared away the smoking rubbish, and rebuilt their houses,
as if nothing had happened.
16th. We were here obliged to pay five _piastres_ a horse to proceed
to _Sabanja_, distant twelve hours. As we departed from _Khandak_, the
road begun gradually to open, and presented to us extensive tracts of
cultivation. We came to a long causeway of wood, formed indeed only of
trees thrown across and so completely out of repair, that we passed it
in many places at the hazard of our lives. At its termination (several
hours from _Khandak_) there is a wooden bridge of considerable extent,
but a part of it had fallen; and we were obliged therefore to ford
the river over which it is built, and which was broad but not deep or
rapid, although much rain had lately fallen. We followed a cart dragged
by buffaloes across the stream, and got in safety over it. After the
passage of the river we reached the borders of the beautiful lake of
_Sabanja_, surrounded on all sides by the most enchanting scenery; its
distant mountains and waters dying away in the softest tints on the
horizon. We traversed its shores for nearly three hours, passing lands
the fine projections and woods of which reflected in the water below
the most beautiful pictures.
_Sabanja_ is a place situated in a very thick wood, and notorious
equally for the impudence and the independance of its inhabitants. We
were not long detained at the post-house; and departed for _Ismid_,
hoping to reach it before the close of night, as the road was reported
unsafe after a certain hour. Although it was too dark to analyse the
beauties of the plain towards _Ismid_, yet the general outline of the
country was sufficiently discernible to impress me with an idea of its
beauty and magnificence: and something also I gained by the solemn
and dubious light of evening, as it softened and harmonized the whole
landscape.
It was, however, entirely dark when we crossed the long causeway
that leads into _Ismid_. The plain was here and there illumined by
the fires of the caravans that had encamped for the night. We put up
at the coffee-house adjacent to the post, and early in the morning
departed for _Gevisa_, distant nine hours. _Ismid_ is a large town
most delightfully situated on the declivity of the mountain bordering
on the branch of the sea, that forms its deep and beautiful gulph. In
my rapid progress I could just ascertain that the place contained some
well-built houses, and some in situations that must have commanded fine
and extensive views of all its scenery. The water is so girt around
with high mountains that it appears a great lake; but the imagination
is soon undeceived by remarking the large boats which navigate it,
and which I soon recognized to be those of _Constantinople_ and
the _Bosphorus_. My anxiety to reach the end of my journey was now
increased; and I stopped not to examine the antiquities of _Ismid_.[50]
At about four hours from _Ismid_, having in many parts of the road
paced the shores of the sea, we reached a small village situated on
the very borders of it. Here were passage-boats to _Constantinople_,
and many persons were going. I preferred, however, the surer route, and
continued with my post-horses to _Gevisa_, ascending a steep road near
an old and ruined fortification.
_Gevisa_ is a small town with a good mosque and neat minarets nicely
white-washed. The country around it was little cultivated and less
wooded, so that it excited in me no other interest than that which its
vicinity to the capital might give. Yet, in any other circumstances
than those of my eagerness to reach _Constantinople_, I should not have
overlooked the delight of searching for the tomb of HANNIBAL. I now
however, made every haste to get to _Scutari_ before dark, but I did
not succeed, and was obliged to pass the night in a coffee-house on the
borders of the _Bosphorus_.
The next morning, the 18th July 1809, I crossed from _Scutari_, and
took up my abode in _Pera_, having completed the journey from _Teheran_
in two months and ten days, in which time I had not once slept out of
my clothes.
CHAP. XIX.
CONCLUSION.
PERSIAN OPINIONS OF TURKEY--MIRZA ABUL HASSAN, THE ENVOY,
ENTERTAINED BY MR. ADAIR: INTRODUCTION OF THE SUITE TO THE MANNERS
OF EUROPE--THEIR ACCOMMODATIONS TO OUR USAGES--CONTRASTED WITH
THE TURKS--DIFFERENCE OF THE NATIONAL CHARACTER--ADVANCES OF
PERSIA--DEPARTURE FROM TURKEY--THE PERSIANS AT SEA--CONVERSATIONS WITH
THE ENVOY: ON THE DRESS, BEAUTY, OCCUPATIONS, AND EDUCATION OF THE
WOMEN OF PERSIA.
In a short time after my arrival, the Persian Envoy and his suite
rejoined me at _Constantinople_. The splendour of the scenery, and
the great novelty of every object about that city, did not seem to
strike them with the surprise that I had expected. Few people are more
sensible than they are to any thing, that is new and extraordinary;
and few more curious and inquisitive. I could therefore only attribute
their apparent indifference to the downright jealousy which they
entertain of the Turks. Often when (struck with the beauties of the
very fine tracts of country which we were passing) I have attempted
to make them join in my feelings of admiration, they merely yielded
a cool assent; always endeavouring to lessen my ardour by saying,
“what is the use of such country, if it be without order?” And they
considered almost as a gross national insult any comparison between
the arid unshaded mountains of Persia, and the splendid foliage and
rich vegetation of the Turkish dominions. As, however, they were very
keenly alive to the beauties of nature, and enjoyed much the shade of
trees and the refreshing sound of running water; and as such spots
recurred constantly during the course of our journey, they could not
restrain their expressions of delight, though they always added at the
same time, “What a pity this charming country is in the hands of these
people! If we had it, (and God grant we shall) what a paradise it would
be.”
I frequently visited the MIRZA ABUL HASSAN at _Scutari_. The windows of
his apartment had a fine view of the great extent of _Constantinople_,
the _Seraglio_ point, the shipping in the harbour, the palaces of
_Dolma Baghehe_, and part of the Sultan’s fleet, (consisting of two
three-deckers and five seventy-fours, at their anchorage) and all
the activity spread over the _Bosphorus_ by the numerous vessels of
all descriptions rowing about in every direction, altogether forming
the most beautiful picture that an imagination the most fertile
could picture to itself; and contrasted in the strongest manner with
the misery, dulness, and sterility of _Teheran_ and its surrounding
scenery. Whenever I called his attention to it, he seemed to shrink
from the observation; and if I talked of the Turkish fleet, he said,
“who can look at any ships, after he has seen English ships?” Indeed,
he was so little disposed to compliment the Turks, that when the
_Caimakan_, being desirous to inspire him with a grand idea of the
naval force of the Sultan, sent a Turkish officer to conduct him near
the fleet, the Persian replied, “I have seen English ships much finer
than any thing that you can show me.”
Yet in cases where no national jealousy intervened, whenever
hospitality and kindness were shewn the Persian, I must do him
the justice to add, that he never omitted to make the strongest
acknowledgments of them; and, I believe, the fullest returns in his
power. The most trifling attention never appeared, from the general
conversation and temper of him or his people, to be thrown away upon
them. The Envoy always spoke in raptures of the kindnesses which he had
received in India, mentioning the names of his friends every time with
an increased delight, and apparently with an unfeigned sincerity.
During the _Mirza’s_ residence at _Constantinople_, he was invited by
Mr. ADAIR to an entertainment, given on the occasion, and consisting of
a dinner under tents at the _Buyukderé_ meadow, and a ball and supper
at night, in a house borrowed for the purpose. The _Mirza_ did not seem
at all astonished at the introduction of ladies into the society of
men, as he had already witnessed our customs in the English settlements
in India: but his attendants, who had just left the very innermost
parts of Persia, by one common consent collected themselves together in
a corner, and eyed every thing with the most anxious astonishment and
attention. Their natural loquacity seemed to have quite forsaken them,
and they sat with their mouths wide open, and eyes full-staring, and
uttered not a single word.
When the hour of dancing arrived, the _Mirza_ entered the ball-room,
escorted by all his servants. There his people were more than ever in
amaze, particularly when the whole assembly was in motion. Of all the
dances the Waltz excited the most wonder and perhaps apprehension, for
one of them quietly asked my servant in Turkish, “Pray does any thing
ensue after all this?”
In the national character of the Persian, the most striking difference
from that of the Turk is perhaps the facility with which he adopts
foreign manners and customs. I remarked two instances during our stay
at _Constantinople_: the first occurred one morning when I went to
visit the _Mirza_, where one of his servants took off his cap and
saluted me by a bow in our fashion: again, at a ball, several of
his attendants took off their caps and sat bald-headed, from the
supposition that it was disrespectful in European company to keep the
head covered, whilst they saw every one uncovered. There were many
other accommodations to our usages which would never have been yielded
by a Turk; such as eating with knives and forks, sitting at table,
drinking wine, &c. The _Mirza_ himself told me that when he was in
_Calcutta_, he wore leather-breeches and boots. I am sure then that if
the Persians had possessed as much communication with Europeans, as
the Turks have had, they would at this day not only have adopted many
of our customs, but, with their natural quickness, would have rivalled
us in our own arts and sciences. Unlike the Turks, they never scruple
to acknowledge our superiority, always however reserving to themselves
the second place after the English in the list of nations: whereas the
Turk, too proud, too obstinate, and too ignorant to confess his own
inferiority, spurns at the introduction of any improvement with equal
disdain from any nation.