deserted village, called _Moss_. Its inhabitants had fled the day
before to their mountains, from the depredation of the _Courds_. Near
it are very ancient tombs, some placed evidently over the bodies of
Christians, for among the ornaments on some of the stones is carved
the cross. One has an Armenian inscription. Here and there are
collections of very large stones, rudely piled one over the other.
On the other side of the stream is _Pekesidge_, a town with a castle
on a conical hill. This is on the high road leading from _Ak Caléh_
to _Constantinople_, through _Shoghoun Deréh_, the pass occupied by
the _Courds_. After this is the village of _Ak Doghan_, and then that
of _Kismisore_, but both deserted. The cultivation is however very
plentiful. In our line to the W. we crossed a branch of the river,
where the water was up to the horses’ bellies.
_Kara Colagh_ is a large village, and the _Menzil Khonéh_ is here. The
surrounding mountains still bear an appearance of mineral. The clouds
gathered at the usual hour, but in a much smaller quantity than on the
preceding days. There was round the road a great profusion of wild
herbs, and amongst others asparagus.
25th. On the next morning we had a great dispute at the _Menzil
Khonéh_. The master peremptorily required that we should pay for the
horses with which he furnished us. In vain did the _Mirza_ persist that
he was an _Elchee_, an Embassador; our host swore that he cared neither
for the _Shah_ of Persia, nor for his own _Sultan_, and that he must
have our money before we should take his beasts. We agreed at last to
give twenty-five piastres for the hire of twenty horses.
Our road first took a N. direction among uncultivated mountains, where
I am told that the snow is frequently so deep in winter as to impede
the passage of travellers. It then varied W. and N. and N. and W.
frequently; but on a general bearing, I think that we averaged N. 60 W.
to _Chiflik_, a distance called twelve hours, and which we performed
exactly in that time, on a reckoning of forty miles. In winding through
the mountains, we came to parts beautifully wooded with fir, pines,
and walnut-trees; and forming, particularly on a long descent, the
most picturesque forest scenery that can be imagined. At the summit of
the mountains we had a continual rain for two hours, accompanied with
thunder. When we reached the close of the descent, we discovered on
our left hand the village of _Sadac_, situated about two miles from
the road on the declivity of the hills, with a surrounding territory
admirably fertile in corn, and well watered. From this place to
_Chiflik_ is fifteen miles: the road leading through one of the most
beautiful and happy looking vallies that I ever saw. A stream, swoln
when we saw it by the rains, runs through it, and on each side spreads
a more abundant vegetation.
On quitting the valley we came on the plain in which _Chiflik_ lies,
so well cultivated that it quite transported me into some of the best
parts of England. The peasants were ploughing the ground, while immense
flocks of sheep, goats, and oxen were spread over the whole country.
The fields were parted off by hedges and ditches; the road was well
defined; and pretty villages rose here and there, intermixed with the
most luxuriant verdure. Spring was here in its bloom, and the whole
plain was a little Eden.
At about six hours from _Kara Colagh_, the road leads N. to the
district of _Bybourg_ or _Baibort_, whilst our road led us W.
The village of _Chiflik_ is interspersed with poplars and willows;
the out-houses for cattle were built of rafters laid horizontally,
and covered with a roof of earth. A _Musselim_ resides here under the
government of _Arz-roum_.
26th. From _Chiflik_ we went to _Caraja_, distant twenty miles (six
hours) on a bearing of W. We continued through the plain, which we had
entered on the preceding day; and found it to its close as beautiful
as in its commencement. The stream which we had admired in the valley
of _Sadac_, issues into the plain and follows the road. We crossed it
over a wooden bridge. It supplies the inhabitants of the neighbourhood
plentifully with fish, of which indeed we had a specimen in some
excellent trout, served up to us for breakfast.
We passed the village of _Ger_, and on the Eastward of the plain we
saw the village of _Kizziljay_. The whole country around was enlivened
by people employed in the works of agriculture. On entering the hills
we found their declivities on all sides beautifully wooded with firs,
pine, oak bushes, and a variety of thorns, with every shrub common to
a Northern climate. All the mountains which we had passed were of easy
access, and of no difficult ascent or descent. About twelve miles from
_Chiflik_ there is in ruins, a small circular building of stone, which
is probably a Turkish tomb.
We rested for the night at _Caraja_, though the proper _Menzil
Khonéh_ is three hours distance, at a place called _Sheyran_, which
gives name to a district, or _Mahalé_, containing this and between
thirty and forty other villages. Our horses were collected from the
individual villagers; for the regular establishments were broken up
about a month before our arrival, by the disturbances in the country.
From _Caraja_ to _Gumuck Khonéh_ (a large town) is twelve hours, and
thence to _Trebisond_ ten hours, on a general bearing throughout the
whole distance of N. _Arsinghan_ is a considerable town, twenty-four
hours S. from _Caraja_. The corn fields in all this region are fenced
off with rails, made of the trunks of pine trees; and here and there
the boundaries of each man’s territory are marked by large stones; a
greater evidence of property, and consequently of prosperity, than we
had seen any where. On our road to-day we saw a great number of juniper
bushes with very fine berries upon them.
In our passage through the woods we met three _Tatars_ going in great
haste to _Arz-roum_, bearing to EMIN AGA the news of his having been
created a _Pacha_. They told us that they had then been seven days
from _Constantinople_. Their errand is called carrying the _Mudjdéh_,
which is merely a verbal notification of the appointment, and which
very frequently proves false; for the _Tatar_ who is the bearer of it
generally gets it from the _Capi Kiayah_ or _Hommes d’Affaires_ of
the great man in the province, and then takes the chance of the news
proving false afterwards. As soon as the _Tatar_ arrives, he is carried
immediately into the presence of the person whose new dignity he
announces, and simply informs him of his promotion. If the news which
he brings prove correct, he receives perhaps one thousand _piastres_,
and the succeeding _Tatars_ (for there are frequently twenty who set
off on similar expeditions) get sums in proportion to their early or
tardy arrival. The person indeed who on these occasions secures the
highest prize, is generally he who brings the pelisse of office, which
is the common mode of investiture in Turkey. On the present occasion we
were told by the _Tatars_ that the pelisse was actually on the road.
The _Aga_ or Governor of _Caraja_ was a Turk of a very fierce
appearance, but of a behaviour more agreeable than his looks. He
accommodated us with the upper part of his own house, an open room
looking over a beautiful plain, and in the evening treated us with a
dinner. The greatest and best ingredient of the entertainment was a
large lamb roasted whole; round this were seated twelve persons, mostly
the farmers of the place, among whom however I could distinguish the
_Imaum_, or parish priest, and the _Hodja_ or schoolmaster. All these
gentlemen arrived with very good appetites to the feast; for no sooner
were they seated and the lamb placed before them, than every one had
his right hand in the dish at once, tearing off as large pieces from
the animal, as his strength and dexterity would admit. This species
of attack did not finish, until there remained nothing but the bare
bones of the lamb; when every man very deliberately retired to smoke
his pipe in a corner of the sofa, and to drink a cup of coffee, that
was then handed round to each of the guests. Although such a meal may
be repugnant to the delicacy of those, who have been accustomed to a
civilized mode of eating, yet there was a species of wild and generous
hospitality in the manners of these people, that I could not help
admiring; and a few ingredients of which would add extremely to the
delights of a modern table.
27th. We proceeded from _Caraja_, and halted at the distance of twenty
miles, on a bearing of N. 60 W. Our station was on the banks of a
stream in a beautiful valley, and we reached it through a country,
which (almost above that of the preceding march) was finely wooded,
and in the intervals among the mountains richly cultivated. Among the
forests the pines were of an uncommon size. Whilst we were eating our
dinner under a tree, a heavy storm of thunder and lightning and rain,
from the Westward, came over us. In this situation we were joined by a
Persian who was coming post from _Constantinople_. He was of the suite
of ASKER KHAN, the Persian Embassador at Paris, and unburthened himself
of a volume of news to us. He soon convinced me that he had gained some
knowledge in France by saying, “_Les dames de Paris sont bien jolies_.”
The storm continued with little intermission till near midnight. Some
sought shelter among the rocks; others covered themselves with carpets,
horse cloths, or any thing which they could seize for the purpose,
whilst others, and I among the rest, sought refuge in a neighbouring
water-mill, half in ruins, where we made a large fire and defended
ourselves as well as we could from the pelting of the storm. I passed
the night in the trough of the mill.
28th. We again continued our route on a general bearing of W. to
_Carahissar_, a distance called eight hours, but which we performed
even in ten hours with difficulty, from the extreme debility of our
cattle. The road measurement may be thirty miles. The whole country,
through which we passed, presented the luxuries of a garden, with the
grandeur of a forest. Flowers of all hues embellished the slopes of
the rich pasturage, and embalmed the air with their aromatic odours.
I never saw spring so luxuriant, so exuberant, as it was in these
regions. At the bottom of every valley invariably runs a stream,
the progress of which is marked by the trees and by the fertility
which borders it, and which accompanies it in all its windings. The
soil is of a fine red earth; and when occasionally turned up by the
plough, breaks the monotony of the universal verdure that now covers
the country, and contrasts admirably with the splendid brilliancy of
its tints. The corn on the summit of the mountain was about a foot
high, but in the valley was much more advanced. The great cultivation
consists in barley, besides many fields of rye, the latter indeed in
many places grows wild, and indiscriminately with other plants. Wheat
does not appear to be one of the necessaries of the inhabitants, for
almost all the bread which we ate was made of barley. Great numbers of
pear-trees border the road, with pines of a form most picturesque, and
presented often in the most striking views. The pencils of an hundred
artists would not accomplish in as many years the task of delineating
all the landscapes which this country affords. The inhabitants are as
well adapted for the painter as their country, and would add a new
interest to the charms of the picture.
On reaching the eminence of _Carahissar_ a splendid panorama opens. The
various masses that erect themselves in an infinity of curious forms
suggest forcibly the wild convulsion of nature which had thrown them
in their present disorder. To the North is a large mass of mountain
of a rude outline, and a tint which indicates the mineral below: this
joins a stupendous chain of rock which, taking a turn to the Westward,
is terminated by the great isolated height of _Carahissar_. On the
extreme summit of this is the castle, a small fort rendered tenable
by its position. There are houses also on the top to which a ziz-zag
road leads. The remainder of the surface is also inlaid with walls,
which, as seen from below, appear more ancient than the main building.
The town of _Carahissar_ is spread about on the declivity. At the
distance of about two miles from the place, and at the bottom of the
valley, formed by the steeps of the great mountains, flows a torrent
from the N. E.: the waters of which foam through a bed of rocks and
loose stones, and spread through the cultivation around _Carahissar_.
We passed on a bridge of one arch: the bases of the arch are of stone
built on two projecting rocks, and the superstructure is of wood.
Immediately after passing the bridge is a fountain, and near it a
garden, from which we got some of the finest cherries that I ever eat.
From this spot the rock of _Carahissar_ was singularly striking.
Proceeding further, we entered the great tract of cultivation and
gardens, more immediately surrounding the town, and certainly
constituting one of the finest spots which I can recollect in Turkey,
or indeed in any other country. Plane trees, poplars, fruit trees of
every denomination in the thickest profusion, intermixed with corn
fields, and enlivened by the murmuring of a thousand streams, formed
the fore-ground of the view. We came to a second torrent which flows
through the gardens with great precipitation and noise, and adds its
waters to the first. The heat was that of summer; the corn had lost
its green tints, and was ripening into yellow. Such was the difference
of our elevation since the preceding day: our descent to _Carahissar_
indeed had been gradual for nearly four hours.
The houses are terraced, and are built of all materials, mud, bricks,
stone, and wood. There is a custom-house: the town is administered by
a _Musselim_ under the jurisdiction of _Arz-roum_. The place has two
mosques, and two baths: one of the former is a good structure with a
dome covered with lead. In the vicinity are many villages: among others
to the South, are _Gezliché_, _Yaiché_, _Sayit_ and _Soucher_.
Scarcely a fortnight before our arrival the town and the adjacent
country had been in a state of great disturbance; a party of
_Janizaries_ inimical to JUSSUF PACHA (now (1809) the Grand Vizir,
who had lately governed the district) set fire to a large house which
he had built at _Carahissar_, and the whole, with an immense property
which it contained, was totally consumed.
We were delayed some time, at the moment of our departure, by a fierce
dispute that arose between the Persians and the Turk and his family at
whose house we had lodged. One of the Persian servants had lost his
_shalwars_ or riding breeches, and, in his anxiety to find them, taxed
the Turk with having stolen them. The Turk retorted with warmth; and
the contention was already going on at a high rate, when the Embassador
arrived, brandishing the breeches in the air, and joining in the attack
on the Turk. It seems that the Embassador, who had before suspected the
integrity of our host, immediately on hearing the affray, searched in
the suspicious parts of our chamber, and in a bye-corner found (wrapped
up in a slip of hay) the unlucky object of dispute. The confusion of
the Turk, who, by his dress and exterior possessions, was passing
for a man of respectability in the town, may be better imagined than
described.
We at length left _Carahissar_, and travelled eighteen miles W. on a
mountainous and stony road. About three miles from our last station
we saw the road to _Diarbekir_ and _Bagdad_, bearing S. 25 W. We
continued our own course to the W. and came to the banks of a large
stream called (like the earlier part of the _Euphrates_) the _Kara
Sou_, and flowing from E. to W. in a channel between two chains of
rocks. In its subsequent progress, like the _Euphrates_ also, it
assumes a new name; and at _Niksar_ is called the _Kelki Irmak_[43].
I am told that it takes its rise near the mines, fifteen days journey
from the point where we saw it, and that it finally falls into the
Black Sea. We encamped on the banks, having followed the windings of
the river through the mountains, on a bad road, now and then rendered
dangerous by narrow and steep passes. Our halt was on the extremity of
the range, with a village to our right; on the eminence on the opposite
side of the water, appeared a ruin of which no one could give me any
better account, than that it was a church built by the _Giaours_ or
infidels. I could observe a portico with a Roman arch; and, not being
able to cross the stream and take a nearer view, I was obliged to be
contented with this scanty information. About noon a strong wind arose
from the S. W. bringing together an immense collection of thick clouds;
which at the close of the evening fell in heavy torrents of rain. Here
again we were exposed to the storm for the night, without any other
shelter than that which the foliage of two trees, and the partial
covering of a shelving rock might yield.
1st. July. We proceeded W. again about eighteen miles, and as on the
preceding day, stopped by the banks of the river, which continued to
wind at the foot of two ranges of mountains. On the right chain was
the line of our route, in parts singularly dangerous: in one pass the
soil crumbled under our feet as we advanced, and fell a horrid depth
into the precipice over the river below. Nor indeed, if a little more
rain had fallen, would the road have been practicable at any hazard.
About eight miles from _Kuley Hissar_ (on the left of our course, and
on the other side of the river) is a small structure built over a hot
spring. In the little plains and vallies that now and then intervened
we met with much vegetation. The acacia was in great plenty; with
plants of every hue. At the end of the stage we saw the castle of
_Kuley Hissar_, situated on the pinnacle of a very high part of the
mountains. We ascended a very steep and intricate road, and from the
summit saw in the deep valley extended at our feet, the beautiful
village of _Kuley Hissar_. It consists of houses unconnected with one
another, and scattered in a wood of every description, (particularly of
fruit-trees;) the refreshing tints of which were admirably contrasted
with the arid surfaces of the surrounding heights. A little art
would render the scene perfect. Streams of running water murmured in
every part of this plantation; and an exhilarating breeze kept up
a delightful temperature in the air. The situation however, girded
close by high land on every side, was in itself much warmer than
_Carahissar_, or any part of our preceding route. Here indeed we found
the season for cherries expired; and we got only the _vishna_ (sour
cherry) and the white mulberry. The corn was generally approaching to a
state fit for the sickle: and in some warmer exposures had already been
cut.
The fort at the summit was some years ago destroyed by JUSSUF PACHA,
(the present Grand Vizier, 1809) who found that the inhabitants of the
neighbouring region were inclined to be turbulent and independent; a
disposition which, I understand, is so little subdued, that they are
now rebuilding their strong hold. To the port of _Janik_ on the Black
Sea, the distance from _Kuley Hissar_ is not more than twelve hours.
2d. July. We were obliged to hire our horses from this stage
forwards at four _piastres_ each. The master of the _Menzil Khonéh_
assigned as a reason, that this village paid more than others to the
_Miri_, and was consequently relieved from the burthen of any stated
establishment, and was not required to furnish travellers at the common
rate. Notwithstanding therefore all our assertions that we were on
the business of government; notwithstanding our _boyouroultee_ or
public orders, (and others more immediately from the _Musselim_ of
_Carahissar_, in whose jurisdiction the place is) we were obliged to
comply. Yet the horses for which we had paid so largely and unusually
were too bad to carry us further than twelve miles; we were obliged
therefore to unload the baggage, and rest them on a fine pasturage in
an open part of the mountains. Our course had been N. 50 W. During
our ride we traversed forests of pine trees, (intermixed with hazels,
oak-bushes, and a variety of other plants) here and there forming most
beautiful pictures. In some places the wood had been burnt down; and
the countrymen were ploughing the land between the old trunks, where
probably they would sow rye. The people here cut their trees about five
feet from the ground, burning them a little, and then applying the
hatchet.
3d. We had not however long taken possession of our station, and our
cattle had not long indulged on the fat pasture that extended itself
around, before a party of armed Turks, some on horseback and some on
foot, came to us and desired us to withdraw our horses from the grass,
for it was the property of their village. This startled the Persians,
who swore that the grass was common property, for that it was the gift
of God, and that their horses had as much right to feed upon it as any
other: the Turks, however, soon made them understand, that the usages
of their several countries differed in this respect: one of them at the
same time remarking, “You might as truly say, that corn, goats, cows,
and sheep are common property, for they are all, as well as grass, the
gifts of God.” The peasants here indeed take much pains with their
grass, which they cut and dry into hay, and store up for the winter:
whereas in Persia, grass is unappropriated; and even barley is open
to the King’s people; for we used to turn our horses into the barley
fields, where, in the King’s name and right, they devoured all around,
while the poor cultivator did not dare to say a word to us. We were no
longer in Persia, and therefore obeyed the summons; and departed an
hour after sun-set to seek a fresh pasturage.
We rode for five hours through thick woods of pine trees beautifully
enlightened by the moon, which rose an hour after we had mounted. We
again stopped, and in a charming valley fed our cattle till morning
dawned; when we proceeded, and in four hours reached the village of
_Isker Sou_. From the general direction of our road, we averaged
probably about N. 70 W. on a distance which might be twenty-seven
miles. Three hours before we reached _Isker Sou_ is the large village
of _Kizzil Javeran_, high on the mountain on the left; and afterwards
on both sides a number of villages, the small wooden houses of which
are scattered unconnectedly in various directions on the declivities
and summits of the hills. The people build their houses entirely of
wood, laying trunks of the pine trees horizontally one over another,
and fitting their extremities at the angles by notches and holes.
About five miles from _Isker Sou_, on the left of the road, is a rock
completely insulated among green fields. The substance is a hard grey
granite, in which is excavated, certainly with great labour, a chamber
nine feet square, with a seat and two recesses. On the left of the
inside on entering is a figure, which, from its resemblance to a Cross,
induced me to suppose that the spot, in which it appeared, had been the
retreat of some of the primitive Christians.
Our Bosnian Quixote had been missing since the preceding evening; and
we felt a general apprehension that he had fallen a prey to the Turks,
who warned us from their pasture. He was late in preparing to follow
us, was encumbered with two horses, and with trappings so numerous,
that notwithstanding his warlike appearance he would have presented
an easy conquest to any attack; above all, he was known to carry much
gold. But his life was in fact uninjured, and he rejoined us in a
subsequent part of our route. The poor creature was now and then wont
to sing some of his patriotic songs, which are of a peculiarly doleful
and melancholy harmony; and every time he begun his lay it happened
that rain fell soon after. I unluckily told the Persians, who were too
credulous and superstitious not to believe me, that the singing of
the people of _Bosnia_ invariably draws down rain: so that the poor
fellow’s strains, whenever he attempted to renew them, were afterwards
stopped by the joint force of all his comrades.