Three miles after quitting _Amra Kieu_, we came to the banks of the
_Araxes_; which enters the plain from the mountains near _Yaghan_, a
large village situated about three miles from the road. The stream
flows here from N. 65 E. to S. 30 W. It takes its rise in the _Mahalé_
of _Khunus_; and where it issues from the ground is called _Bin Gieul_,
or a thousand springs. In its course it closely follows the mountains
which we had left at the extremity of the plain. Little irrigation is
drawn from it through the neighbouring territory. We crossed it over
a very well-built stone bridge of seven arches; by the measurement of
which the river was about one hundred and sixty paces in breadth. Just
at this point a stream flows into it from the Westward, taking its
course close to _Hassan Caléh_. Immediately on passing the bridge we
came to a village called _Kupré Kieu_, and then continued on a fine
road, and through a delightful plain strewed with villages, distant in
general two or three miles from each other. The principal of these are
_Arsunjéh_, on the left, and _Gumec_ and _Miagen_, on the right of the
road. All the plain was well cultivated; and the peasants were here
sowing their corn. We passed by _Hassan Caléh_, a large town situated
around a hill; on the summit is an old fortification, the curious
walls of which are chequered with the embrasures of former times. We
crossed the stream by the town, over a bridge of two arches. Close to
the bridge is a bath built over a spring, the heat of which is almost
that of scalding water: yet when we looked in, several men were up to
their chins in it. The basin is about thirty feet in diameter, and
is enclosed by an old structure. Several other springs of the same
temperature adjoin it.
We had procured a man from the Governor (_Cazi_) of _Hassan Caléh_, to
conduct us to _Alwar_, but the _Aga_ of that place positively refused
to admit us or to lodge us, and added in direct terms that he did not
care for _Cazi_, _Pacha_, or any one else, and that we might go any
where we chose; if at least we did not disturb Him. After vollies of
abuse on both sides, we were content as before to take up our quarters
in the open fields, under the shade of a tree, that luckily was
situated near the village, and saved us from an ardent sun. Here we saw
geese for the first time.
Whilst seated under the tree, vowing vengeance on the _Aga_ of _Alwar_,
(having dispatched a man to the Governor of _Arz-roum_ to state our
case), we were visited by a respectable, yet sly-looking Turk, who
came quietly and settled himself on our carpet. He begun by telling
us that he was a _yoljee_ (a traveller) like ourselves; and inquired
what made us so angry. We broke out into every species of invective
against the _Aga_ of the village, who had obliged us to remain like our
horses and mules, under a tree, refusing us the most common offices of
hospitality; and added, that we had in consequence sent a messenger
to the Governor of _Arz-roum_ to complain of the affront, hoping at
the same time that the inhospitable _Aga_ would either lose his head,
or at least get a severe bastinado. We had some suspicion that the
personage to whom we were talking was the very _Aga_ himself, and were
therefore less scrupulous in our abuse. This suspicion proved true: our
visitor begun by taking the _Aga’s_ part, saying that the country was
in a great state of alarm, and that the people feared to receive into
their towns so many strangers, and particularly Persians, and finished
in his own person by intreating us not to write to the Governor of
_Arz-roum_. He went away accordingly in some fright, and allowed us to
get provisions from his village, a permission which he had not granted
before.
We spent the night, however, in the open air, and in the fear of
rain: much, indeed, was falling on all sides of us with thunder and
lightning.
CHAP. XVII.
ARZ-ROUM TO AMASIA.
ARZ-ROUM: DESCRIPTION OF THE CITY; ANCIENT STATE: POPULATION: CLIMATE:
VISIT TO THE GOVERNOR; ENTERTAINMENT; TURKISH DISHES--DEPARTURE--BATHS
OF ILIJA: THE DELHIS--THE EUPHRATES--BUILDINGS AT
MAMAKHATOUN--TRADITION OF THEIR ERECTION--CHIFLIK:
CULTIVATION--TARTARS ON THE ROAD FROM CONSTANTINOPLE--CARAJA:
DINNER--PERSIAN FROM PARIS--STORM--GRANDEUR OF THE APPROACH TO
CARA-HISSAR--DELAY IN THE TOWN--THE RIVER KELKI IRMAC, THE ANCIENT
LYCUS--KULEY-HISSAR--DIFFERENCE OF PROPERTY IN TURKEY AND IN
PERSIA--EXCAVATED ROCK--HISTORY OF A BOSNIAN STRANGER--COUNTRY ROUND
NIKSAR, THE ANCIENT NEOCÆSAREA--ENTRANCE INTO TOCAT: DESCRIPTION;
TRADE--TURKHAL--STATION OF GUARDS--APPROACHES TO AMASIA.
1809, June 15th. We arrived at _Arz-roum_, after riding fifteen miles
on a bearing of W. over a chalky road. The city presents itself in a
very picturesque manner; its old minarets and decayed turrets, rising
abruptly to the view. Our baggage was carried to the Custom-house,
notwithstanding all our remonstrances and claims of privilege. The
caution of the Turks, though in this instance unnecessary, was not
unjustifiable, for a former Persian Embassador had concealed merchants
in his suite, who, under his name, passed large quantities of fine
goods.
_Arz-roum_ is built on a rising ground: on the highest part is the
castle, surrounded by a double wall of stone, which is chequered at
the top by embrasures, and strengthened here and there by projections
in the fashion of bastions, with openings fit for the reception of
cannon. It has four gates, which are covered with plates of iron. The
whole is well-built, and to me does not appear the work of Mussulmans.
A ditch runs by it to the S. W.; near it is a tannery; and further on
is a row of blacksmiths’ forges, which seemed in good employ. In this
direction (N. E. of the town) is the Custom-house, a spacious building.
The _Pacha’s_ residence has a large gate opening into a court-yard.
The houses are in general built of stone, with rafters of wood, and
terraced. Grass grows on their tops, and sheep and calves feed there;
so that, when seen from an eminence, the roofs of the houses can hardly
be distinguished from the plain at their foundation. I walked through
most of the _bazars_; few are domed, the rest are terraced, like the
dwellings, but affording a common road for foot-passengers, who ascend
by a public flight of steps. Wherever a street intervenes, a bridge
is thrown over, and the line continues uninterrupted. The shops in
the _bazars_ are well stocked, and the place exhibits an appearance
of much industry. The streets are mostly paved; but, as in Turkey, in
that manner which is more calculated to break the passenger’s neck than
to ease his feet. There are sixteen baths, and one hundred mosques;
several of the latter are creditable buildings, the domes of which are
covered with lead, and ornamented with gilt balls and crescents.
This is the present state of _Arz-roum_; its remains prove that it must
have been still more considerable. Every thing attests the antiquity
of the place; the inhabitants indeed date the foundation from the
time of NOAH, and very zealously swear, that some of their present
structures were contemporary with the Patriarch: with less hazard of
truth, or rather with much appearance of probability, they aver that
others were the work of the _Giaours_, or Infidels. One in particular
is attributed to the latter origin; it consists of an arched gateway,
curiously worked all in strong stone, situated N. W. in the castle, and
close to a decayed minaret of ancient structure. Yet many of the older
fabrics appear by the true Moresque arch, to be certainly of Saracenic
origin; and many of the remains of mosques resemble those buildings in
Persia, with curious bricks, and lacquered tiles, which were raised in
the first ages of Mahomedanism. In all those at _Arz-roum_, I observed
a round tower, with a very shelving roof, covered all over with bricks.
There are still erect several minarets, obviously works of the early
Mussulmans. Near the Eastern gate of the castle are two of brick and
tile, and a gate (with a Saracenic arch and a _Cufic_ inscription) and
many strong stone buildings around, the remains of the fine portico
of a mosque. To the East of the town is an old tower of brick, the
highest building in _Arz-roum_, which is used as a look-out-house, and
serves as the tower of the _Janizaries_ at _Constantinople_, or that of
_Galata_. There is a clock at the summit, which strikes the hours with
sufficient regularity.
In _Arz-roum_ there are from four to five thousand families of the
Armenian, and about one hundred of the Greek persuasion: the former
have two churches, the latter one. There are perhaps one thousand
Persians who live in a _Caravanserai_, and manage by caravans the
trade of their own country. _Trebisond_ is the port on the Black
Sea, to which the commerce of _Constantinople_ is conveyed. The
Turkish inhabitants of _Arz-roum_ are fifty thousand families. This
amount of the population I give from the authority of a well-informed
Armenian; but as all such details in a country so ill-regulated are
exceedingly suspicious, I have already taken the liberty to deduct more
than one-third from the number of Turkish families in the original
estimate. But the reduced statement still leaves in _Arz-roum_, at
the rate of five persons in a family, a total of two hundred and fifty
thousand persons, besides Armenians.
The climate of _Arz-roum_ is very changeable, and must in winter be
piercingly cold. It rained throughout the whole of the 19th, but the
clouds dispersed on the morrow, and discovered the adjacent hills
overspread with snow. The high lands which arise from the plain around,
attract constant thunder-storms; the elevation, indeed, of the whole
region from the base of the sea is itself very considerable, and is
sufficient to account for the cold.
On the 17th we visited the Governor. He treated us with the usual
civilities of the occasion in Turkey, pipes, coffees, sweetmeats and
sherbet, for which we paid dearly by the numerous _backshishes_ or
vails that are given in such circumstances. EMIN AGA, who then filled
the station and was _Musselim_ of the town, was also _Gumruckchee_ or
Collector of the Customs, an office which in Persia is confined to
very inferior persons, and which therefore drew upon the Commandant of
_Arz-roum_, who unluckily bore it, the laughter and contempt of the
Persians. Yet when he invited us all to dinner, they were not the less
anxious to make their best appearance before him. Throughout the day,
the Persian Envoy was occupied with the arrangement of his clothes; he
consulted every one of his servants on the suit which might become him
best, and at length fixed on a fine gold-brocade coat.
On the 20th we went accordingly to the entertainment. After smoking and
drinking coffee, the _Aga_ called for dinner. Water for the preliminary
ablution was first brought, when I observed that the Turks washed both
their hands, and the Persians the right only. The servants who brought
the basin and ewer were attended by two others: one who spread a towel
on the knees, and another who was ready to take it away, and replace
it by a second for the hands. After this an octagonal stool two feet
and a half high was placed in a corner of the sopha, on which was
put a large round pewter tray carved all over in various fashions.
On this were placed piles of bread all around, onions, endive, and
basins of _yaourt_, milk, and plates of cheese, with two wooden
spoons at intervals for the guests. When all was ready our host said,
“_booyouroun_,” or “you are served,” and we approached the table. When
seated each guest was attended by a page, who threw a large napkin with
gold-embroidered borders over each shoulder, and arranged another on
our knees; an apparatus not unlike that of the preliminary service of
shaving. A small cloth was placed in the centre of the tray, on which
stood the dish. First, in a glass vase, came a species of sweet soup
which was not unpalatable; then a lamb roasted, stuffed with rice and
almonds; then stewed pears, then a stew of mutton, then sweet jelly;
in short, there was a succession of at least one hundred dishes,
consisting generally of an intermediate sweet article between the
meats, besides pastry to each. The master of the entertainment said,
“_Booyouroun_,” when it was brought in, and “_Calder_,” or “take away,”
when we had eat two or three mouthfuls, and scarce any other words but
these two were heard during the whole feast. Servants attended behind
each guest, with a vase of lemonade or sherbet. The dishes were not,
in general, badly cooked, although much coarser than those of Persia.
The whole was closed by an immense _pillau_. The principal dishes
were the _yakné_, which resembles our Irish stew; the _dolmah_, meat
balls enclosed in vine leaves; the _kabob_, which is roast meat; the
_chorbah_, or soup; the _baklavah_, a cake of honey, paste, and other
sweet ingredients; the _lokmah_, a light paste puff; and the _pillau_,
which is nothing but rice intermixed now and then with plums, almonds,
and always well peppered and spiced. When all was over we washed our
hands with soap and hot water, smoked, drank coffee, and went away, and
were dunned as usual for _backshishes_ on departing.
A strange character joined us at _Arz-roum_; he was a native
of _Bosnia_, and took the opportunity of our escort to reach
_Constantinople_. He seemed to fear the wild inhabitants of the country
through which we had to pass, and wore accordingly a coat of mail
under his clothes, and a burnished helmet on his head, and was armed
with two heavy rifle guns, a pair of pistols, a long _kunjur_, and a
sword, besides a variety of powder flasks, &c. which, altogether, made
him weigh thirty stone.
On the 21st we left _Arz-roum_, and proceeded across the plain to
_Ilija_, a distance of five miles only, on a bearing of N. 80 West.
The plain is covered with villages: I counted thirty on one part, and
the cultivation is proportioned to the population. The season was
advancing: in some places the corn was a foot from the ground, and
there was besides much fine pasture.
Close to the village we crossed a bridge over a nice stream, there
called the _Kara Sou_, which flows in this quarter from E. to W. and
according to the information which I procured on this spot, finally
flows into the _Euphrates_. On comparing, however, my authorities and
my observations, I suspect that it is itself larger than its confluent
stream, and deserves therefore to be considered as the primary river.
Its sources are in the mountains at _Suzdan_, about nine miles from
_Arz-roum_; and it meets another river at _Serchembéh_. The sources of
the _Tigris_ are said to be at a village called _Nehel_, near _Gever_,
a place ten _fursungs_ from _Oroumi_.
At _Ilija_ are warm springs, two of which are enclosed within walls,
for the separate use of men and women. Large parties had collected
from _Arz-roum_ to bathe here, and had pitched their tents among the
rocks to pass the night. During the night an alarm was given in the
village, that a number of _Delhis_ (who have been called the “_Enfans
perdus_” of the Turkish army,) had taken up their quarters among us,
and that every one must in consequence look to his own property.
Perhaps there were not two hundred of these desperadoes, yet they had
given more trouble to the Government of _Arz-roum_ than an army of ten
thousand men could excite in any European country. They commit with
impunity every act of cruelty and extortion; no one dares to reprimand
or to punish them; and a few days before our rencounter with them,
they chose to be dissatisfied with the conduct of the Governor of
_Arz-roum_, and informed him that they intended to desert. To pacify
them, therefore, he was obliged to send them loads of victuals. We
passed the night, however, without disturbance, and fared well indeed,
by the kindness of the Armenians of the village. From this place
Southward to _Bin Gieul_,[42] the sources of the _Araxes_ is five
_sahat_ (hours) Turkish. The villages nearest our road were _Gez_,
_Belour_, _Arouni_.
22d. Our route to _Purtun_ bore W. on a distance of twenty miles.
From _Ilija_ to the right and left, the country was still as on the
preceding day, studded with villages, and still richly cultivated. But
it is almost destitute of timber; a few bushes and small trees only
are sprinkled here and there over the hills; and the great number of
_Arabahs_ which we met loaded with wood had been all brought from a
distance. About six miles on the right is the village of _Alaga_, and
on the left _Arranli_. Having proceeded five miles from our last stage
we stopped at _Jennis_, a very pretty spot, where the Armenians brought
us a breakfast of eggs, fritters, _yaourt_ (curdled milk), and _kymack_
(clouted cream). On leaving _Jennis_, the village _Nardiran_ lies at
the declivity of the hill. We quitted here the road to the right, which
would have carried us to _Ak Caléh_, the regular _Menzil Khonéh_, and
took a bye-path, because a pass in the mountains along the direct
line was possessed by a party of _Courdistan_ freebooters. We reached
_Purtun_ about four miles S. from _Ak Caléh_, and sent thither for the
horses (fifteen in number,) which were necessary to convey us forwards.
Our resting place was a small village in the bosom of the mountains,
near a pretty stream which fell in a cascade (almost under the roots
of three picturesque trees in the middle of the water), and turned a
mill below. At about twelve o’clock the clouds arose from the S. E. and
brought thunder, hail, and rain; a circumstance which I had remarked
almost every day at the same hour since our arrival at _Arz-roum_. The
weather then cleared up towards the close of the evening, and a fine
morning with an almost cloudless sky opened the following day.
On the 23d, we left _Purtun_; and retraced the route of the preceding
day for two miles and a half, when we took a general Westerly direction
for twenty-four miles. Our road was carried through a long chain of
mountains, in a line of easy access, though the surface was rendered
difficult by the mud which the rains had made. The whole soil was an
admirably rich earth, producing the greatest luxuriance of grass, wild
herbs, and flowers. Here and there the country begun to be wooded;
and to be intersected by a great profusion of streams; and in one
particular view (about two miles from our stage) displayed the most
romantic scenery with fine wild precipices washed by the waters below,
and shaded by shrubs and pine trees. The neighbouring district however,
in consequence of the depredations of the _Delhis_, and the recent
incursions of the _Courds_, was entirely unpeopled; and we learnt that
the village of _Mama Khatoun_, at which we intended to take up our
quarters for the night, was in the same manner deserted.
From the eminence above we enjoyed a beautiful prospect; a river, swoln
by the rains and melted snows, poured from the mountains on the S.
E. and meandered at the foot of two stupendous rocks; and the large
buildings from which the place derived its name, were below us. They
are close to the village, and consist of a _caravanserai_, a mosque,
a bath, and a tomb, all constructed with a fine white free stone, and
finished in a manner worthy of the best ages. The _caravanserai_, in
the usual shape of such buildings, is a hollow square, with a gate to
the East. Round the court are built small rooms, all arched in the most
solid and magnificent style. There are also two vaulted chambers, each
fifty yards long by forty broad, for the accommodation of the cattle of
travellers. In the middle of the square is an arched chamber, erected
probably as a cool retreat in summer. Though many parts of the building
are falling into ruin, the _caravanserai_ may be considered generally
in very good preservation. The mosque is situated to the right. It is
entered by a small court yard, from which a vaulted Peristyle leads
under the dome, into the principal chamber, where is a stone pulpit.
Though the dome is covered with weeds, and though of the single minaret
the upper part has fallen, the main structure is still entire; and
its fine materials, and its admirable masonry, are very strikingly
and advantageously opposed to the more modern works of the country.
Close to the _caravanserai_ is the bath, and on the other side the
remains of a building; the use of which I could not ascertain. Nearly
facing the _caravanserai_, is a kind of small round temple, probably a
tomb, enclosed by a circular wall, which is entered by a gate way of
Saracenic architecture. On the exterior of the arch is an inscription
in _Cufic_. The small building inside is covered by a shelving roof,
of the same construction as many of the buildings at _Arz-roum_. The
interior is arched, and carved in a variety of ornaments, and under it
is a subterraneous chamber. The court is full of fragments, which may
perhaps suggest the supposition, that the whole was originally covered.
Around are many tomb-stones, inscribed with _Cufic_ characters.
The popular story of the erection of those different buildings is as
follows: a wealthy Turk fell in love with an Armenian woman of this
village, but as she doubted the extent of his affections, she required
as a proof before she yielded her consent to marry him, that he should
build a _caravanserai_, mosque, &c. at the place of her birth. The
Turk immediately accepted the conditions; and, proving that his love
was equal to his wealth, raised these structures, and called them by
her name, _Mama Khatoun_. The people add, that a treasure is concealed
in a part of the _caravanserai_; which, according to an inscription,
is destined for the reconstruction of the whole, after the decay of
the present buildings. In one of the corners of the _caravanserai_ we
luckily found a stray calf, of which we took possession, and of which
the Persians, in disregard of their scruples and distaste of ox-flesh,
eat with great appetite.
At noon we had the usual thunder storm. The surface of the mountain
is hard, and apparently contains much mineral matter. A very elevated
chain covered with snow extends before the village; the highest part
bearing W. and taking a N. direction. The _Kara Sou_ is no longer
known by that name at _Mama Khatoun_, though by the description of the
country, we recognized it under that of _Frat_. The water at this place
has no distinct designation, but is called simply, the river of _Mama
Khatoun_.
On the 24th we proceeded to _Kara Colagh_, a distance called twelve
hours, which we performed in ten, and which in road measure may be
reckoned at thirty-two miles. We travelled for eight hours on a bearing
of W. and for the remainder of the stage turned to the N. When we
had advanced about six miles and a half, we came to the river, which
in its earlier progress we had passed as the _Kara Sou_, but which
here, as we suspected at _Mama Khatoun_, was known as the _Frat_, and
was said to flow finally near _Maaden Kebban_, into that which rises
at _Diadin_. We crossed it over a very good bridge of eight arches,
constructed altogether of the same materials, and in the same style as
the buildings at _Mama Khatoun_. At the distance scarcely of a stone’s
throw is the confluence of the _Frat_, and that river which flows
near _Mama Khatoun_; their united waters form a considerable stream,
following the direction N. to S. 40 W. Near the bridge is the village
of _Manastour_. We traced upwards to the N. for two hours, the river
which I conceive to be the original parent of the _Euphrates_, enjoying
at every turn new and beautiful pictures of cultivation, and woodland.