away a little to the Northward, and shewed us the sublime and venerable
mountain of _Ararat_. It bore N. 10 E. of our station, and presented
a stupendous mass to our view. The Persians told me that it was eight
hours distance from us; and added many a story of its wonders. Such
as--that no one, who attempted to ascend it, ever returned; and that
one hundred men who had been sent from _Arz-roum_ by the _Pacha_, to
effect the undertaking, all died. The Armenian priest assured me,
with a very grave face, that the ark was still there. There is a
smaller mountain on the same range, bearing N. 30 E. which is called
by the Turks, _Cochuk Agri-dagh_, as the larger _Ararat_ is called
_Agri-dagh_. _Ararat_ is the _Macis_ of the Armenians. The sources of
the _Euphrates_ are twelve hours from _Agajik_, in a direction of N.
50 W. by the peasant’s pointing. The Armenians told me that they had a
_Zeeauret_, or place of devotion, at the sources called _Wes Kionk_.
8th. We left _Agajik_ with five men, who, according to the custom,
accompanied us out of their frontier into the Turkish territory. At
about two miles and a half from _Agajik_ is another Armenian village,
called _Kilsé_, from the ruins of a church (_Ecclesia_), which forms a
conspicuous object among its mean huts, being well-built with a fine
white stone, with arched doors and windows. Even in its ruins, however,
the present poor inhabitants still contrive to keep up a place of
worship within the interior.
About three miles and a half N. 30 W. from _Agajik_, are the boundaries
of the Persian and Turkish territories marked by a ruined tower,
situated in the centre of a valley.
[Illustration: _Mount Ararat._
_Drawn by James Morier Esq^r._
_Published by Mess^{rs}. Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme & Brown,
Paternoster Row, May 1, 1811._]
As we were feeding our horses, the person whom we had sent to _Bayazid_
(to intimate our approach to the locum-tenens of IBRAHIM PACHA, who
was himself on an excursion against the _Courds_) returned, and told
us that the Acting-governor would not receive us into the city, nor
give us a passage near it; alleging as a reason, that his master the
_Pacha_ had left strict orders, that during his absence no strangers,
and particularly no Persians, should be admitted. This unexpected news
staggered us at first, but at length we determined to send one of the
_Mirza’s_ own men to exert the influence of his master’s station in our
favour. We proceeded, following our messenger: the road took a turn to
N. 30 E. and shewed us once again in a much larger exposure than before
the stupendous _Ararat_. It is indeed a sublime and almost terrific
object. It rises from an immense variety of lands; and is covered with
snow, and almost always surrounded with clouds.
We stopt at a small Armenian village called _Kerdek_, (on the left of
the road, one _fursung_ from _Bayazid_,) to await the return of our
second messenger. We did not tarry long, when he appeared, though only
to confirm the report of his predecessor. The Turks would not suffer
him even alone to enter the city; for as soon as he approached, they
fired a musket or two, to convince him that their resistance would not
be confined to threats; and when he endeavoured to come to a parley,
they answered him only with ill language and abuse. We determined
therefore immediately upon taking a circuit to avoid _Bayazid_, and
seeking IBRAHIM PACHA himself, from whom we expected a handsome
reception; as the Persians represented him to me as a vassal of their
Prince ABBAS MIRZA, fearing Him rather than his own sovereign. Our road
to day averaged N. 10 W. a distance of ten miles; the same bearing
indeed may be extended to _Bayazid_, on a further distance of four
miles. _Bayazid_, as I learned in its neighbourhood, is situated close
at the foot of Mount _Ararat_: it is peopled principally by Armenians.
On a hill about it, is a castle, which by its defenders is said to be
strong; they are very jealous however of the curiosity of a Persian.
9th. Three men, whom we anxiously expected from Prince ABBAS MIRZA
to accompany us to _Constantinople_, joined us on the evening of
the 8th; and so far therefore our delay at this miserable village
was convenient. We gave them just time to feed their horses; and
then, about an hour before sun-set, resumed our march to take up our
quarters for the night on the bank of a little running stream; the rich
pastures, through which the waters flowed, refreshed our cattle, but we
ourselves were obliged to pass the night in the open field with a heavy
dew falling, yet, thank God, with a fine clear sky. During the course
of the night a Turk arrived from _Bayazid_ to say, that he was sent
by the _Kiayah_ to be our _Mehmandar_ to the presence of his master;
adding, indeed, that the Vice-Governor regretted the misunderstanding
on which he had acted, for he had been told that we were followed by
a large body of horsemen. On further questioning the Turk we found,
that the wife of IBRAHIM PACHA (hearing that there was an _Elchee_,
an Embassador, without the town, and that admittance had been refused
to him) made loud remonstrances to the _Kiayah_ on the impropriety of
his conduct, and interceded so far in our behalf that he sent us these
excuses. Though we were ill satisfied with the conduct of this person,
we thought it better not to reject the attendance of the officer whom
he had deputed to escort us, as we were among a wild and unmanageable
people.
We travelled an hour and a half, in one of the clearest and most
beautiful mornings that the heavens ever produced; and passing on our
left the two villages of _Dizzéh_ and _Kizzil Dizzéh_, we came to an
opening of a small plain covered with the black tents and cattle of
the _Elauts_. Here also we had a view of Mount _Ararat_; the clouds
no longer rested on its summit, but circled round it below. We went
to the largest tent in the plain, and there enjoyed an opportunity of
learning that the hospitality of these people is not exaggerated. As
soon as it was announced at the tent that strangers were coming, every
thing was in motion: some carried our horses to the best pastures,
others spread carpets for us, one was dispatched to the flock to bring
a fat lamb, the women immediately made preparation for cooking, and we
had not sat long before two large dishes of stewed lamb, with several
basins of _yaourt_, were placed before us. The senior of the tribe,
an old man (by his own account indeed more than eighty-five years of
age) dressed in his best clothes, came out to us, and welcomed us to
his tent with such kindness, yet with such respect, that his sincerity
could not be mistaken. He was still full of activity and fire, although
he had lost all his teeth, and his beard was as white as the snow on
the venerable mountain near his tent. The simplicity of his manners and
the interesting scenery around reminded me, in the strongest colours of
the life of the patriarchs: and more immediately of Him whose history
is inseparable from the mountains of _Ararat_. Nothing indeed could
accord better with the spot than the figure of our ancient host. His
people were a part of the tribe of _Jelalee_, and their principal seat
was _Erivan_; but they ranged through the country:
And pastured on from verdant stage to stage,
Where fields and fountains fresh could best engage.
Toil was not then: of nothing took they heed
But with wild beasts the sylvan war to wage,
And o’er vast plains their herds and flocks to feed;
Blest sons of nature they! true golden age indeed.
_Castle of Indolence_, xxxvii.
We quitted our hospitable friends, (who appeared to be almost more
grateful for our visit than we for their kindness), and passed along
the plain. Mount _Ararat_ bore N. 40 E. and extended itself completely
to our view. Its N. W. ascent is not so rapid as its S. E. and I should
conceive that in this quarter it might be possible to ascend it. In
six hours and a half, after leaving our last encampment, we reached
_Diadin_. It is a large village with a fort and towers; under which,
in a deep channel of perpendicular rock, runs the eastern _Euphrates_,
there a shallow stream about twenty feet in breadth. It rises about
four _agatch_ or twelve miles from _Diadin_, on a bearing of S. 50
W. by the direction of a man’s hand; and in the country is called the
_Frat_; the name assumed at _Arz-roum_, by the Western stream.
At _Diadin_ we were not permitted to go near their miserable castle.
The houses of the place are built of mud and stones, and the rooms
are calculated to lodge the animals as well as the family. A small
compartment only is reserved for the master; and in general the rest
of the space is left for his cattle. We did not, indeed, enter their
habitations, for every door was shut against us; and when, by great
management, we had secured shelter for ourselves, our people, and our
cattle, we found equal difficulty in procuring food. ABDULLA PACHA, a
rebel _Courd_, with whom IBRAHIM PACHA was at open war, had in fact
carried away all the flocks, and destroyed all the crops of this
village. We could not therefore expect an easy supply of corn for our
horses; but after much intreaty a little was produced, for which indeed
we paid an amazing price. A piece of barley bread was delivered to each
man; and the masters, by a very marked favour, were supplied with a
mess of eggs and a basin of _yaourt_.
The houses for the _Conaks_ or reception of strangers, here as in all
other places in Turkey were regularly defined; but when the _Mirza_ and
I were entering that appropriated to ourselves, we were received at
the door by a woman, who, with her face totally uncovered, boldly bad
defiance to the _Conak-chee_, and (with the most threatening looks, and
with all the volubility of her sex,) swore that nobody should enter her
dwelling. However, by a little negociation we pacified our hostess, and
were at length admitted into her stable, where we spread our carpets
and composed ourselves to sleep. The women here barely cover their
faces; and, as we afterwards learnt, are notorious for depravity: they
appear very healthy. The men are as wild as savages, and seem to be
under no law. Independently of their own immediate distresses, one
of the reasons for their inhospitality to Persians is very natural;
several Embassadors had been sent to _Constantinople_, and since that
time every traveller, who had two or three attendants, assumed the same
dignity. The discovery of the fraud has necessarily roused the caution
of the Turks.
10th. We were nine hours on the road to _Youngali_, called nine
_agatch_, and which I calculated at thirty-two miles on a bearing of
N. 65 W. The _Euphrates_ accompanied us all the way through a country
of grass, but of little cultivation. Four miles after leaving _Diadin_
we passed the village of _Jugan_, about a mile and a half on our left:
then four miles further, still on the left and on the other bank of
the _Euphrates_, _Utch Klissé_. Here a high and snow-covered mountain
called _Kussé Dagh_ appears in view; and (extending to the S. and W.)
the range of _Ala-Dagh_. In the village is an Armenian Church, a very
respectable looking building, much resembling an European structure.
It has two wings with a shelving roof, and is covered by a small dome
built of stone, apparently not in much decay.
At the termination of that branch of the mountain near which _Utch
Klissé_ stands, there is a stone bridge thrown over the _Euphrates_. We
continued by the bank of the river, which winds from E. to W. creating
verdure on each side as it flows. We passed through a village now in
ruins called _Alakou_; and on the slope of the hill (three miles on
the left of the road) that of _Comoulja_; another called _Belasou_, is
close on the banks of the river; and, about eight miles further, having
passed the miserable huts at _Cadi Kieu_, we reached after a very
sultry ride, our _Conak_ at _Youngali_. All these villages are in the
_Mahalé_ of _Alashgerd_.
When we had been about an hour on our road, I missed a small carpet
from my baggage, and sent back therefore my servant to reclaim it from
our host at _Diadin_. From the looks which he cast at our goods, I had
frequently suspected his honesty, but I might have spared my suspicions
and my trouble; for I received nothing but oaths. Near to _Utch
Klissé_, we met the battering train of IBRAHIM PACHA, which consisted
of two field pieces, returning from the siege of _Turpa Caléh_, the
castle of TIMUR BEG, who had revolted from his authority. We learned
that after a siege of five months, in which the _Pacha_ had fired
his guns one hundred and fifty times at the town and castle, he had
succeeded in killing one fowl and one dog.
IBRAHIM PACHA, who was at another village three miles from _Youngali_,
sent his _Haznadar_ or treasurer to escort us to our lodging. The
misery here was even greater than that of the preceding day. No corn
for our horses, nor even grass without hard blows. The whole of the
country was in a state of absolute devastation from the incursions
of the _Courds_; and our course presented nothing but difficulties,
for IBRAHIM PACHA was at war with all the country round. He professed
indeed to respect the _firman_ of ABBAS MIRZA, and when we sent him
that with which we had been furnished, he immediately carried it to
his head, saying that he was the Princes servant in all things; and
that there was nothing which he would not willingly do to serve him.
We never fared worse, however, than at this village. The people that
surrounded us bore the looks of savages, and their general behaviour
corresponded with their appearance.
To the South of _Youngali_, as I was told at the place, lies _Van_; and
to the S. W. the large _Mahalé_ of _Kensus_.
11th. We left _Youngali_, dissatisfied with our host: the Persians
indeed were miserable with the scanty hospitality which they received
at his village. When we were left by the two officers, who escorted
us to their master’s frontier, we were advised not to go near _Turpa
Caléh_, as we should undoubtedly be molested. Yet the situation, in
which this war of the rival chiefs had placed us, was so difficult,
that we incurred equal hazard either in passing the castle of TIMUR
BEG, without offering our respects, or in venturing near it after
coming from the domains of his enemy. We determined therefore to state
our story simply, and throw ourselves on his hospitality. We crossed
a most beautiful plain covered with villages, and watered by numerous
streams. We forded three considerable torrents, which poured from
the N. mountains, and, swoln by the melting snows, threw themselves
into the _Euphrates_, which was flowing at the Southern extremity
of the plain from E. to W. Three miles from _Youngali_ we came to
_Cara-Klissé_, a large village peopled by _Courds_ and _Armenians_; and
then made a circuit to the N. to avoid a swampy road in the centre of
the plain. We passed through several villages, the inhabitants of which
seeing the numbers of our company mistook us for one of the fighting
parties, and crowded on the tops of their houses at our approach. Of
these places, the principal were named _Datté Tapé_, _Kesick_, and
_Arnat_.
_Turpa Caléh_ is situated N. 60 W. from _Youngali_, on a distance
of about fifteen miles or four hours. It is a larger place than any
that we had seen since _Khoi_. The town is scattered on the slope of
a conical hill, on the top of which is a castle. This the Turks deem
impregnable, and with justice, if the failure of the late siege be a
criterion, though the fort seems in every part accessible to cannon.
The high mountain of _Kussé Dagh_ overlooks the town and attracts
continual clouds over it. We proceeded warily; and, about a mile before
we reached the place, halted and sent forwards a man to reconnoitre
the appearance and dispositions of the people, and to report on the
expediency of our advance. He returned with the intelligence that
we had nothing to fear; and we directed our course therefore to the
_Conac_ or dwelling of the _Kiayah_, the chief officer of TIMUR BEG.
Here we dismounted, and were introduced immediately into a dark room,
where twenty torpid Turks were indulging themselves in the quiet
delights of smoking. The _Kiayah_ sat in the corner, but rose when the
_Mirza_ entered; and, having said the usual “_Khosh gueldin_” (you are
welcome,) closed his lips and left his guest to display the compliments
and insinuative flattery so natural to his nation. The loquaciousness
and vivacity of the Persian formed an inimitable contrast with the dull
and heavy laconism of the Turk.
When we had smoked and drunk coffee, a man came to inform us that TIMUR
BEG was ready to receive us. The _Mirza_ and I immediately proceeded,
leaving the rest of our party with the _Kiayah_. We ascended to the
castle by a steep and difficult path, and entered it by a large iron
door. We were introduced into a spacious room at the summit. The Chief
(attended by all his principal warriors gravely seated around) occupied
a window commanding an extensive view of the country over which we
had travelled, and more particularly the district of his rival, the
_Pacha_. When we also were seated, and the usual compliments had
passed, the _Mirza_ begun a prepared speech unfolding our condition,
announcing that we threw ourselves at his mercy, asking the rights
of hospitality from him, and intermixing throughout some very severe
invective against his enemy the _Pacha_. The mode succeeded: and TIMUR
BEG instantly replied, that we had nothing to fear; that under his
protection we were safe; that our necessities should be supplied, and
that his officers should receive orders to treat us with distinction
and kindness at a neighbouring village; for he hoped, as the only
favour that he required of us, that we would not sojourn in his castle
for that night.
When these preliminaries were settled, I had time to observe that there
was much to admire in our host. He was about forty years of age, with
a singularly open and manly countenance, and with manners the most
graceful and dignified. He related his own history and his differences
with IBRAHIM PACHA in language so simple, yet so expressive, that
we acquired a deep interest in his fate; particularly, when he
expatiated on the _Pacha’s_ tyranny and inordinate rapaciousness, and
on the misery in which his exactions had involved all the peasantry
of the district. During the course however of his conversation with
the _Mirza_, I remarked one of his observations which was very
characteristic of a semi-barbarous society. He inquired who I was? and
being informed that I was of the _Sect of Isau_ (JESUS), or, in other
words, a Christian, he continued (with a look of pity, having observed
that I had refused a pipe), “These fellows, I hear, have neither pipes
nor tobacco in their country: _haivan dar_, they are beasts:” as if to
say, assuming that we did not possess the knowledge or the means of
their favourite enjoyment, “how far inferior to us must those be who
cannot smoke.”
Our host kept strictly to his word: we were sent forwards four miles
further to the promised village of _Molah Suleiman_, escorted by two
of his officers; and supplied with all that the place could afford, a
sheep, fowls, and rice for ourselves, and corn for our horses.
12th. We passed over a mountainous tract of country from _Molah
Suleiman_ to _Deli-baba_, a distance which we travelled in ten hours,
and which I reckoned at thirty-five miles, on a bearing of N. 30 W. as
well as the intricacies of the turns would permit me to observe. Before
we entered the mountains, (when we had travelled about three miles,
and just above the little village of _Zadiéh_,) I had the parting view
of Mount _Ararat_, which bore from us N. 80 E. We were told that the
road was much infested by the _Courds_, particularly at a pass in the
mountains called _Gerdina_, and we placed ourselves therefore in a
posture of defence. But we traversed the whole extent without seeing
a human being, till we reached _Dahar_, a village of _Courds_ in the
mountains twenty miles from _Molah Suleiman_. We then proceeded winding
in a variety of directions, with a scorching sun over our heads, to the
entrance of a pass which, through two stupendous rocks, leads into the
plain of _Deli-baba_. This pass might be made an admirable military
position, and in its present state is a most picturesque object. A
stream from the mountains runs through it: on the left is a rock three
hundred feet perpendicular, and on the other side is another of less
height, but pierced with three holes, as if it were by the hand of man.
On entering the plain we saw numbers of peasants with their _arabahs_
or carts. They told us they had fled from their village in the fear
of ABDULLA AGA, who, from his station near _Erivan_, makes predatory
excursions all over the country. They added that _Deli-baba_ was
totally depopulated; however we did not believe them, and proceeded. We
found indeed a very bad reception, for the inhabitants mistook us for
enemies, collected together at our approach, refused us admittance, and
fired several muskets at us. At length the chief of the village came
out to meet us, and we agreed to establish ourselves at a distance,
feed our cattle, and depart. The fear of ABDULLA AGA created such a
distrust, that we were avoided by every one whom we met; and even when
any permitted us to approach, all our assurances were insufficient to
inspire them with confidence. Although we offered great prices for
the necessaries of our supply, the people would hardly sell a single
article; and the few pieces of bread and eggs which formed our meal at
_Deli-baba_ were not procured without the greatest difficulty.
Although the country is in a terrible state of disturbance, caravans
travel freely on the road. We met a large one which had been eight days
from _Arz-roum_. Our mule-driver happened to kill a serpent; he cut
it immediately in two pieces, and threw the parts on different sides,
saying, “It is a lucky sign, our enemies will not overcome us.”
The soil over which we passed was admirably rich, and the most
delightful spring reigned on the tops of the mountains, where we culled
nosegays of a thousand hues; yet the snow lay in several places, and
covered the fetlocks of our horses, while close to it rose every flower.
13th. We quitted the village of _Deli-baba_ early in the morning,
having passed a night full of anxiety and watchfulness in the open
fields; as we were told that we were not safe, and might probably be
attacked, though nothing, thank God, disturbed us. We proceeded on a
bearing of West to _Amra Kieu_, a village prettily situated at the
utmost extremity of a plain, and surrounded by some trees, (in our
later course a very scarce object) the willow and the plane. We crossed
a beautiful country cultivated in most parts, and considering the
extreme misery of the inhabitants themselves, looking very prosperous.
The spring was here in its first burst, and the corn was scarcely a
span high: the fields were no longer watered by dikes as in Persia,
for the nature of the seasons and of the country render unnecessary
any artificial means of irrigation. The hills to the Northward of the
plain, through which we passed, rise in a gentle acclivity, and to our
view displayed habitations and culture; but as we met no person on the
road, I could not learn the names of the villages in various parts. At
two hours, (seven miles,) from _Deli-baba_, and about a mile from the
road, is _Batman Kieu_, situated in the bosom of a valley delightfully
watered and cultivated. The houses of _Amra Kieu_, our resting place,
are built with the fir tree, and their roofs are formed by rafters of
wood, geometrically placed, which are afterwards covered with earth,
and constitute a strong dome. This is a better construction than any
that we had lately observed. Small two-wheeled carts, to which oxen are
yoked, are used here by the peasantry. The sheep are very fine, with
large tails and good wool.