In case of separation, Clerke was ordered to cruise for five days near
where his consort had been last seen, and then to steer for New Albion
(so-called by Sir Francis Drake), endeavouring to fall in with it about
latitude 45 degrees North, and there cruise for ten days; then, if his
consort was not picked up, to proceed north to the first suitable port
and recruit his men, keeping a good look-out for his companion. Then he
was to sail on 1st April to 56 degrees North, and again cruise about
fifteen leagues from the coast till 10th May, when he was to proceed
north and endeavour to find a passage to the Atlantic, according to the
Admiralty instructions already in his hands. If unsuccessful he was to
winter in some suitable port of Kamtschatka, leaving word with the
commandant of St. Peter and St. Paul Harbour, where he was to be found,
and to be at the last-named place not later than 10th May of the
following year. Then, if he had no news of the Resolution, he was to
follow out the Admiralty instructions to the best of his ability.
The two ships left for Bolabola on 7th December to get an anchor left by
De Bougainville, in order to make hatchets for exchange, as the demand
had been so great their stock was running short. They had no difficulty
in purchasing it, and it was good enough for their purpose, though not so
heavy as they expected.
They crossed the line on the 23rd in longitude 203 degrees 15 minutes
East without having seen land since leaving Bolabola. Two days after they
picked up a low island and managed to get some turtle, and also a rather
unsatisfactory observation of an eclipse of the sun, the clouds
interfering with the view of the commencement. Their position had been
settled by other observations, so the ill-luck was unimportant. About
three hundred turtle were obtained, averaging from 90 to 100 pounds each,
and as much fish as they could consume during their stay was caught.
Coconuts, yams, and melons were planted, and the island received the name
of Christmas Island.
SANDWICH ISLANDS.
Leaving on 2nd January they did not sight land till the Sandwich Islands
were reached, in latitude 21 degrees 12 minutes 30 seconds North. At the
second one seen, called Atoui by the natives, they were quickly
surrounded by canoes; the occupants, very like the Otaheitans in
appearance and language, were armed with stones, which they threw
overboard as soon as they found they were not likely to be wanted, and
though none could be persuaded to come on board the ships, they freely
parted with fish for anything they could get in exchange. As the ships
sailed on, more canoes came out bringing further supplies, and Cook
rejoiced at arriving at a land of plenty, for his stock of turtle was
just finished, and he was anxious to save his sea stores. At length some
were tempted on board, and were greatly astonished at what they saw, but
their wonder did not last long, and stealing soon broke out as usual.
When they came to an anchor Cook landed and found a favourable place for
watering, so a party was set to work the next day, and found no
difficulty in getting assistance from the islanders, whilst at the same
time a brisk trade was carried on in pigs and potatoes. Cook says: "No
people could trade with more honesty than these people, never once
attempting to cheat us, either ashore or alongside the ship." They seem
to have dropped their thieving very quickly. At night a nasty sea got up,
and as Cook did not like the position of his ship he weighed to run a
little further out, but the wind suddenly dropping round to the east, he
had to set all sail to clear the shore. For a day or two no very
satisfactory anchorage could be found, and the weather was rather
unsettled, so, making one of the chiefs a present of an English sow and
boar, and a male and two female goats, the ship bore away to the
northwards.
According to Baron von Humboldt these islands were discovered by a
Spaniard, Gaetano, sailing from Manilla to Acapulco in 1542, and it was
one of the few discoveries made by the Spaniards during this passage, for
they were strictly forbidden to deviate from the track laid down on their
charts. The name La Mesa (the table) down on the chart Cook had with him,
describes the island, says Burney, but the longitude is several degrees
out. It is undoubtedly a fact that Europeans had been at the islands
previously to Cook's visit, for at least two pieces of iron were found,
one being a portion of a broad-sword and the other a piece of hoop-iron.
NEW ALBION.
On 7th March, New Albion was sighted at a distance of ten or twelve
leagues, and the position of the ship at noon was 44 degrees 33 minutes
North, 236 degrees 30 minutes East; Cook's orders were to make the coast
"about 45 degrees North," so they may be said to have been carried out
with fair exactness. Cook says that on the charts he had, a large
entrance or strait was represented, and in the account of Martin
d'Aguilar's voyage in 1603 mention is made of a large river, near where
he struck the coast, but he did not see any signs of either. Proceeding
up the coast the progress was very slow as the weather was very stormy.
On 22nd March they passed the position of the strait of Juan de Fuch, but
again no sign of its existence was seen. On the 29th the style of the
coast changed, and high snowy mountains with well-wooded valleys running
down to the sea came into view, and at length Hope Bay opened out. Here
they came in contact with the first natives they had seen, who put off in
their canoes to the ships, showing signs neither of fear nor distrust. At
first they appeared mild and inoffensive, and would trade anything they
had with them; but when they got used to the ships it turned out that
they were adepts at thieving; no piece of iron, brass, or copper was
safe. Fish-hooks were cut from the lines and boats were stripped of their
fittings. They sold bladders of oil for the lamps, and it was found that
they were often partly filled with water, but this was winked at in order
to get on a thoroughly friendly footing. This being a favourable
opportunity to put the two vessels in order and to give the crews a spell
of rest ashore, a good anchorage was sought out, and the observatory set
up. On 4th April, whilst wood and water was being got in, the natives,
who had given no trouble beyond their stealing, were observed to be
arming, and precautions were taken, but the Indians explained that their
preparations were made against some of their own countrymen who were on
their way to fight them. After a time some canoes made their appearance,
and on a deputation going out to meet them a discussion took place, and
some sort of an agreement was made between the two parties, but the
newcomers were not allowed to approach the ships nor to join in the
trading.
The stay here was longer than was intended, for the Resolution's fore and
mizzen masts were found to be very defective, and her rigging had got
into a very bad state. The fore-mast was repaired and the mizzen replaced
with a new stick, and when a great deal of work had been done this proved
faulty, and a second one had to be cut. New standing rigging was fitted
to the main-mast, and a set made from the best of the old, for the
fore-mast. When the heaviest part of this work was completed Cook visited
the country about King George's Sound, and was courteously received at a
village by the natives, to most of whom he was known. Here he found the
women employed making dresses out of bark in much the same way as that
employed by the New Zealanders. Sending some sailors to cut grass for the
sheep and goats he had left, the natives made a claim which was at once
satisfied; but when the men were ordered to go on cutting, fresh
claimants sprung up, till Cook says he thought each blade of grass had a
separate owner. When at last the natives found that they could get no
more, the cutting was allowed to go on without the slightest further
objection.
PUNCH AND THE DEVIL.
The people are described as being short, with broad flat faces, high
cheek-bones, swarthy complexions, and no pretensions to good looks.
Burney says that it was only after much cleaning that their skins were
found to be "like our people in England." Cook says they were docile,
courteous, and good-natured, but liable to fits of passion.
"I have often seen a man rave and scold for more than half an hour
without any one taking the least notice of it, nor could any one of us
tell who it was he was abusing."
Burney describes their language as harsh, and when in a warm discussion,
apparently insufficient, and then they had to eke it out with such nods
and jumps as reminded one of "Punch and the Devil." Their clothing was
chiefly made of skins, and a kind of cloth made from fibre or wool and
hair, or a mixture of both. "In these clothes and a coarse mat and straw
hat they would sit in their canoes in the heaviest rain as unconcernedly
as if they were in perfect shelter." Their houses of logs and boards made
by splitting large trees, were some as much as 150 feet long by 20 to 30
feet wide, and 7 or 8 feet high; they were divided into two compartments,
each apparently the property of one family. The roof was of loose planks,
which they moved about so as to let the light fall where it was wanted.
Cook judged these were only summer residences, and that they had better
houses inland. The furniture consisted of a few boxes, some wooden
vessels for their food, and a few mat bags. Their cooking was fairly
good, but excessively dirty, and their persons and houses "filthy as
hogs' sties." They often had two wooden figures in their houses
resembling human figures, of which they spoke mysteriously; but as they
could have been purchased in every case for a small quantity of old iron
or brass, they could not have been much venerated. Their arms were bows
and arrows, slings, spears, and a small club of wood or stone, something
like the New Zealander's patoo, and a stone tomahawk, the handle
fashioned like a human head, the stone cutting-part being a large tongue,
and they were decorated with human hair. The defensive armour was a
double cloak of hide, usually moose, serviceable against arrows or
spears, but they were greatly surprised to see a bullet fired through a
cloak folded four times. The only vegetables obtained were a few nettles
and wild garlic, but Burney says that at the back of the village was a
plantation of cherry trees, gooseberries and currants, raspberries and
strawberries, "but unluckily for us none of them in season." On 20th
April a man who had been allowed to go into Cook's cabin, made off with
his watch, and got away from the ship. Fortunately his canoe was seen
alongside the Discovery, and notice being given a search was made, and
the watch found in a box unharmed. Such a loss would have been serious.
Two old-fashioned silver table-spoons, supposed to be Spanish, and a
pewter wash-basin were purchased from the Indians.
RESOLUTION LEAKS.
On 26th April a start was made, and before leaving, an Indian, who had
specially attached himself to Cook, gave him a valuable beaver skin, and
was so pleased with the return present he received that he insisted on
Cook taking from him a beaver cloak upon which he had always set great
store. In return "he was made as happy as a prince by a gift of a new
broadsword with a brass hilt." The next day, when well clear of the land,
a perfect hurricane arose, and the ships lay to, heading to the
south-east. The Resolution sprang a leak, and the water could be seen and
heard rushing in, but after some little anxiety one pump was found to be
sufficient to keep the upper hand. The gale lasted two days, but on the
second they were able to get an observation which gave the position of
the ship as 50 degrees 1 minute North, 229 degrees 26 minutes East, about
opposite to where the Straits of de Fonte were marked on his chart. They
were now able to run along the coast and see and name the most salient
points, but time was too valuable to make any halts by the way. The land
appeared to be of considerable height, the hills covered with snow, but
near the sea, well wooded. Mount St. Elias was sighted 4th May, at a
distance of forty leagues, and on the 6th they arrived in the bay in
which Behring had anchored, so his name was given to it on the chart.
Here the land trended away to the west; the wind was westerly and light,
and consequently their progress was very slow. Landing on an island to
try to get a view of the other side from the top of a hill, it was found
so steep and thickly wooded he had to give up the attempt. He therefore
left a bottle containing some coins given him by his friend, Dr. Kaye,
and named the island after him. Here they found currant and strawberry
plants, but the season was too early for fruit.
Near Cape Hinchinbroke Gore went off to an island to shoot, but seeing
two large canoes containing about twenty Indians, he thought it wiser to
return to the ship. He was followed up, but none of the natives would
come on board, and after a time intimating they would return next day,
retired. Two men in small canoes did return during the night, but finding
that every one on board was not asleep, beat a hurried retreat. The next
day the ships got into a better position, and more Indians turned up,
with whom they had little difficulty in entering into trading relations;
but as they desired pieces of iron about ten inches long by three wide,
and it was rather a scarce article on board, very little, chiefly skins,
was purchased. At first only one man came on board, and as he saw only
two or three people on the Discovery, he went to the Resolution and
brought over some of his friends, who rushed the deck with their knives
drawn. However, the crew quickly ran up with their cutlasses ready, so
the natives retired, remarking that the white men's knives were longer
than theirs. At the Resolution they broke every glass scuttle they could
reach with their paddles, says Burney. Cook points out that they must
have been quite ignorant of the use of firearms, and concludes by saying:
"However, after all these tricks, we had the good fortune to leave them
as ignorant as we found them, for they neither heard nor saw a musket
fired unless at birds."
The leak on the Resolution was attended to, and in places the oakum
caulking was found to have disappeared completely; one writer says it was
caused by rats, and that the ship was saved by rubbish having choked up
the leak.
TWO SETS OF TEETH.
Bad weather detaining them, Cook had an opportunity of studying the
inhabitants. He had with him a description of the Esquimaux, by Crantz,
and found these men to be very similar in appearance, dress, and
appliances. They all had the bottom lip slit horizontally, giving them
the appearance of having two mouths. In these slits pieces of bone were
fixed to which were tied other pieces, forming a great impediment to
their speech, and in some cases giving the idea that the wearer had two
sets of teeth. Some also had pieces of bone, cord, or beads run through
the cartilage of the nose, and all had their faces plentifully smeared
with black and red paint.
After examining an inlet, which received the name of Sandwich Sound, they
got away, steering to the south-west past Cape Elizabeth, sighted on that
Princess's birthday, which they hoped would prove the western extremity
of the coast, but on getting round, land was reported further on to the
west-south-west, and a gale sprang up, forcing them off their course. In
two days they worked back again, discovering more land behind what they
had seen already. This Cook believed to be Cape Saint Hermogenes
mentioned by Behring, but his chart was so inaccurate he could not
positively identify it, or any other place mentioned on it. Cape Douglas,
after the Dean of Windsor, was named, and placed in 58 degrees 56 minutes
North, 206 degrees 10 minutes East; and the next day a high point in a
range was called Mount St. Augustine, after the saint whose day it
happened to be. They then worked into an estuary formed by the rivers
(one being afterwards named Cook's River, by orders of Lord Sandwich), in
order to satisfy some of the officers who thought there might be a
possible communication with Hudson's Bay. A good supply of very fine
salmon was obtained from natives in the neighbourhood, and Cook formed
the opinion that a paying fur trade might be opened up as the skins
offered were of considerable value.
Working slowly up the coast they passed through the islands off Quelpart
on the 18th, when the Discovery signalled to speak; a boat was sent, and
returned with a small box curiously tied up with neatly-made twine. It
had been delivered on board by an Indian, who first attracted attention
by displaying a pair of old plush breeches and a black cloth waistcoat,
and when he came on board, took off his cap and bowed like a European.
The box was found to contain a paper written in Russian, but
unfortunately the only things that could be understood were the two
dates, 1776 and 1778. It was supposed to have been written by a Russian
trader, and given to the Indian to place it on board the first ship he
met with.
On the 20th, in 54 degrees 18 minutes North, 195 degrees 45 minutes East,
a volcano throwing out dense smoke was observed; and in the afternoon
they received a visit from a man who had evidently been in contact with
Europeans, for he was wearing green cloth breeches and a stuff jacket. He
took off his cap and bowed as the visitor to the Discovery had done, but
unfortunately they were unable to understand his language.
On 26th June they had a narrow escape during a thick fog, when it was not
possible to see anything a hundred yards away. Breakers were heard, so
the anchors were let go and fortunately held. An hour or so after the fog
lifted, and they found themselves about three-quarters of a mile from a
rocky island, having passed between two elevated rocks, a place through
with, Cook says, "I should have ventured on a clear day," for all that
they found themselves in "such an anchoring place that I could not have
chosen a better."
ANDERSON DIES.
On 27th June they were off the island of Onalaschka, and came across a
party of natives who were towing two whales they had killed; they were
somewhat shy, but had evidently seen ships before, and were more polite
than those previously met with. One was upset from his canoe, and Cook
took him down into the cabin and provided him with dry clothes; "he
dressed himself with as much ease as I could have done." His clothes were
of birds' skins, the feathers inside, and patched in places with silk,
and over all he wore a sort of shirt of whale's intestine, which, secured
round the edge of the hole in which he sat in his canoe, rendered him
practically waterproof. Whilst in this neighbourhood they received a
second letter in Russian, but having no one on board who could translate,
it was returned with some presents to the bearer, who retired bowing his
thanks. After some detention from fogs and adverse winds they got away
once more and pushed slowly northwards. On 3rd August Mr. Anderson the
surgeon, who had been ill for some months, died, and Cook, having named
an island, sighted soon after his death, Anderson's Island, "to
perpetuate the memory of the deceased, for whom I had a very great
regard," appointed Mr. Law to the Resolution and Mr. Samwell to the
Discovery as surgeons.
On 9th August, Cape Prince of Wales, 65 degrees 46 minutes North, 191
degrees 45 minutes East, was sighted, and they believed it to be the most
westerly point of North America. They landed on what, from Heydinger's
Chart, was the eastern end of the island of Alaska, but it afterwards was
found to be the eastern extremity of Asia. This chart, says Burney, was
found "not only to be incorrect but almost unintelligible." The country
was very desolate, neither tree nor shrub to be seen, and the inhabitants
seemed afraid of their visitors, though not absolutely unfriendly. They
were taller and stouter than those on the American side, and their
clothing very superior.
The ships fell in with the ice blink on the 17th, in 70 degrees 33
minutes North, 197 degrees 41 minutes East, rather earlier than had been
expected, and soon afterwards with the ice itself in the shape of a large
field extending as far as the eye could reach from west to east. Here
they got a supply of fresh meat in the shape of sea-horse, of which
animal they killed a good many. The flesh was fishy and indifferent
eating, but Cook says anything was preferable to salt meat.
They still slowly but steadily pushed north along the American shore,
but, being hampered by fog and ice, they crossed over to the west side
with no better fortune, for on the 26th they found themselves embayed in
the field with large quantities of heavy loose ice along the edges.
Having sighted Cape North on 29th August, Cook decided the season was too
far advanced, and that it would be better to proceed to winter quarters,
and accordingly ran down the Asiatic coast in search of wood and water,
of which he stood in need; but was disappointed, and making over to the
other side was fortunate to find a considerable quantity of driftwood
which served his purpose. Before leaving the straits, Cook remarks:
"In justice to Behring's memory, I must say he delineated this coast very
well, and fixed the latitude and longitude of the points better than
could be expected from the methods he had to go by."
SALMON PIE.
Anchoring in Norton Sound, Cook sent away the boats to explore, and set
to work to determine between the correctness of the chart drawn by
Stocklin and his own observations, and after a series of no less than
seventy-seven sets of observations he was able to show that Stocklin was
wrong. It was at this place that he decided to winter in the Sandwich
Islands, as a port in Kamtschatka would oblige his crews to remain idle
for nearly six months before further exploration to the north could be
undertaken. The course was now set for Samgoonoodha Harbour, but they did
not arrive there till 3rd October, having met with very heavy weather, in
which the Resolution again began to leak badly. On 8th September an
Indian brought a singular present in the form of a pie made like a loaf,
containing some highly seasoned salmon, accompanied by a letter in
Russian. In return Corporal Ledyard of the Marines, "an intelligent man,"
was sent with a few bottles of rum, wine, and porter, to obtain further
information, and with orders, if he met with any Russians, he was to
"make them understand that we were English, Friends, and Allies." On the
10th Ledyard returned, bringing three Russian sailors, but as there was
no interpreter there was difficulty in understanding anything thoroughly.
One of the newcomers was understood to say he had been out with Behring,
but Cook thought he was too young. They appeared to have great respect
for that officer, and Ledyard said he had seen a sloop which he
understood was his ship. They stayed on the Resolution all night, and
promised to return with a chart of the islands that lay between that
place and Kamtschatka. It was understood that there were several
settlements in the immediate neighbourhood employing altogether about
four hundred Russians.
LETTERS TO LONDON.
On the 14th Cook and Webber were at an Indian village a short distance
from the ships, when they saw a canoe arrive containing three men and
accompanied by some twenty or thirty single canoes. A tent was rigged up
for one of the first three, a Russian named Ismyloff (Ismailoff) the
chief trader of the district, whilst the others made shelters of their
canoes and grass, and so all were independent of the Indians. Ismailoff
invited Cook to join him at his meal, which consisted of dried salmon and
berries, and some sort of conversation was carried on by means of signs
and figures. Ismailoff proved to be well acquainted with the geography of
the district, and pointed out several errors in the modern maps. He said
he had been with Lieutenant Lindo's expedition as far north as
Tchukotskoi Nos, and saw Clerke's Island; but when he could or would not
say what else they had done during the two years the expedition was out,
Cook began to have doubts. He also said the Russians had several times
tried to gain a footing on the American shore, but the Indians had driven
them off with the loss of two or three of their leaders. He also spoke of
a sledge expedition in 1773 to three islands opposite the Kolyma River,
which Cook thought might be the one mentioned by Muller, he related that
he had sailed, in 1771, from a Russian settlement called Bolscheretski,
in the Kurile Islands, to Japan, but the ship was ordered away because
they were Christians, so they went to Canton and sailed on a French ship
to France, and from thence he went to Petersburg, and was then sent out
again. He was quite clear as to his dates, and put them on paper; but as
he was perfectly ignorant of any French, "not even the names of the
commonest articles," though he had been such a long time amongst French
people, Cook was again inclined to be sceptical. He stayed all night,
dining with Clerke, and returned again on the 19th, with charts, which he
permitted to be copied, and some manuscripts. One chart showed the
Asiatic coast as far as 41 degrees North, with the Kurile Islands and
Kamtschatka, and the second, the more interesting to the English, showed
the discoveries made by the Russians to the east of Kamtschatka,
exclusive of the voyages of Behring and Tcherikoff. Cook found the
longitudes in places were very different from those on the Russian maps,
and was afraid the mistake might be carried through, but the latitudes
were fairly correct. As far as he could ascertain, the instrument used
for the survey had been the theodolite. Before leaving, Ismailoff gave
Cook letters for the Governor of Kamtschatka and the Commandant of
Petropaulowsk; and Cook, finding "he was tolerably well versed in
astronomy," gave him a Hadley's octant, and though it was the first one
he had seen, he soon made himself acquainted with its uses. A letter to
the English Admiralty was also entrusted to him to be forwarded via
Petersburg, as opportunity might offer. This letter and a chart of the
northern coasts was delivered in London the following year.
On 26th October the two ships got away, and, in case of separation,
Clerke was given his rendezvous, first, the Sandwich Islands, and second,
Petropaulowsk in the middle of May. On 28th the discovery met with a
nasty accident during a gale; the fore and main tacks carried away,
killing one man, and seriously injuring the boatswain and two others. On
25th November the islands were sighted, and the customary orders as to
the officers appointed to trade with the natives were issued, and no
curiosities were to be purchased before the ships had received
satisfactory supplies. They first called in at Mowee, where the natives
soon came out and appeared friendly, and traded with less suspicion than
any of the South Sea Islanders they had met with before.
Having procured a quantity of sugar-cane, Cook ordered it to be used in
brewing, as he found a strong decoction of the juice produced a wholesome
and palatable beer, and would enable him to save the spirits for the
colder climates. However, the crews would have none of it, so Cook and
his officers made use of it whenever cane was procurable, and gave
himself:
"no trouble either to oblige or persuade them to drink it, knowing there
was no danger of scurvy so long as we had plenty of other vegetables, but
that I might not be disappointed in my views, I gave orders that no grog
should be served in either ship." He then goes on to say: "Every
innovation whatever, tho' ever so much to their advantage, is sure to
meet with the highest disapprobation from seaman. Portable soup and sour
kraut were at first both condemned by them as stuff not fit for human
beings to eat. Few men have introduced into their ships more novelties in
the way of victuals and drink than I have done; indeed, few men have had
the same opportunity or been driven to the same necessity. It has,
however, in a great measure been owing to such little innovations that I
have always kept my people, generally speaking, free from that dreadful
distemper, the Scurvy."
This extract shows how bitterly Cook felt the stupid ingratitude of his
men for the constant care he took of them, and is one of the very few
passages in his Journals in which he speaks in their disfavour. This,
curiously, was erased by some unknown hand; King asserts it must have
been done by Gore, as he is certain it was not by either Cook or Clerke,
who took command after Cook's death.
FAULTY SAILS.
In trying to weather the south-east end of Mowee in heavy weather, the
leach ropes of the main topsail and two topgallant sails gave way, and
the sails were blown to pieces. Cook says, "neither the cordage, canvas,
nor indeed hardly any other stores used in the Navy, are equal in quality
to those in general use in the merchant service"; and he relates how such
failures have constantly resulted in "infinite trouble, vexation, and
loss." He illustrates his complaint by the fact that rigging, blocks, and
sails that were purchased with his ship, although they had been fourteen
months in use, wore longer than any of the things of the same kind put on
board new from the king's stores.
On 24th December they succeeded in getting to windward of the island, but
the signal to the Discovery to tack having been omitted she stood on, and
it was some days before she rejoined company. January 1779 was ushered in
with heavy rain, but clearing away before noon they were able to approach
to about five miles from the shore, where they lay to and traded with the
natives. The next three days were spent working slowly down the coast and
keeping a good look-out for their consort, occasionally stopping to do a
little trading with the islanders, some of whom came as much as fifteen
miles out to them. The chief article of commerce was salt, which was of
very good quality. On the 5th January the southern point of Owhyhee was
rounded, and they lay off a large village, where they were quickly
surrounded by canoes laden "with hogs and women": the latter are not held
up as patterns of all the virtues. Vegetables seemed to be scarce, and
Cook concluded that either the land could not produce them, or the crops
had been destroyed by volcanic action, very recent traces of which were
to be seen.
"Wednesday 6th January 1779. The next morning the people visited us
again, bringing with them the same articles as before. Being near the
shore I sent Mr. Bligh, the Master, in a boat to sound the coast, with
orders to land and look for fresh water. On his return he reported that
at two cable lengths from the shore he had no soundings with a 160
fathoms of line; that when he landed he found no fresh water, but rain
water lying in holes in the rocks, and that brackish with the spray of
the sea, and that the surface of the country was wholly composed of large
slags and ashes, here and there partly covered with plants. Between 10
and 11 o'clock we saw the Discovery coming round the south point of the
Island and at 1 P.M. she joined us, when Captain Clerke came on board and
informed me that he had cruised four or five days where we were separated
and then plyed round the last part of the Island, but meeting with
unfavourable winds, was carried some distance from the coast. He had one
of the islanders on board all the time; it was his own choice, nor did
not leave them the first opportunity that offered."
This is the last entry made by Cook in the Journal he was preparing for
publication, and is a fair sample of the manner in which the entire
Journal was written, and certainly does not justify the sneers that have
been uttered about bad grammar and spelling, the double negative
notwithstanding. In handwriting, spelling, and grammar he can compare
well with his press either in the Navy or civil life; and many of the
examples of bad spelling given have been abbreviations common in the
Navy, which his critics did not understand.
KARAKAKOA BAY.
On 17th January they anchored in Karakakoa Bay, where large numbers of
canoes laden with provisions for sale came out; Cook estimates that at
one time there were no less than a thousand round the ship, their
occupants entirely unarmed. They soon proved to be adepts at thieving;
one man stole the rudder of a boat, so Cook ordered a shot or two to be
fired over the escaping thief, but "as it was not intended that any of
the shot should take effect, the Indians seemed rather more surprised
than frightened," and the man got away. The lids of the Resolution's
coppers were stolen, and the discovery had her rigging much cut about for
the sake of the iron. The decks were so crowded with the natives that
Burney says it kept a quarter of the crew hard at work to make room for
the working of the ship.
AN INSECURE POSITION.
The last entry made by Cook in his Ship's Journal, and probably the last
words he ever wrote, runs as follows:
"Sunday 17. Fine pleasant weather and variable faint breezes of wind. In
the evening Mr. Bligh returned and reported that he had found a bay in
which was good anchorage and fresh water, tolerable easy to come at. Into
this bay I resolved to go to refit the ships and take in water. As the
night approached, the Indians retired to the shore, a good [many] however
desired to sleep on board, curiosity was not their only motive, at least
not with some of them, for the next morning several things were missing,
which determined me not to entertain so many another night. At 11 A.M.
anchored in the bay which is called by the natives [a blank, filled in by
another hand, Karakakoa] in 13 fathoms of water over a sandy bottom, and
a quarter of a mile from the North-East shore. In this situation the
South point of the bay bore South 1/4 West, and the North point West 1/4
South. Moored with the stream anchor to the Northward. Unbent the sails
and struck yards and topmasts. The ships very much crowded with Indians
and surrounded by a multitude of canoes. I have nowhere in this sea seen
such a number of people assembled at one place, besides those in the
canoes, all the shore of the bay was covered with people and hundreds
were swimming about the ships like shoals of fish. We should have found
it difficult to have kept them in order had not a chief or servant of
Terreeoboo's, named Parea, now and then [shown] his authority by turning
or rather driving them all out of the ship.
"Among our numerous visitors was a man named Touahah, who we soon found
belonged to the church; he introduced himself with much ceremony, in the
course of which he presented me with a small pig, two coconuts and a
piece of red cloth which he wrapped round me. In this manner all or most
of the chiefs introduced themselves, but this man went further, he
brought with him a large hog and a quantity of fruits and roots, all of
which he included in the present. In the afternoon I went ashore to view
the place accompanied by Touahah, Parea, Mr. King and others; as soon as
we landed Touahah took me by the hand and conducted me to a large Morai,
the other gentlemen with Parea, and four or five more of the natives
followed."
Mr. King describes this Morai as being about forty yards long by twenty
broad, and about fourteen feet high, the top flat, well paved, and
surrounded by a wooden railing. An old building stood in the centre from
which a stone wall ran to the fence dividing the top into two parts. On
the landward side were five poles upwards of twenty feet high, supporting
an irregular kind of scaffold, and on the sea-side half were two small
houses with a covered communication between. On their arrival Cook was
presented with two ugly images wrapped with red cloth, and a sort of hymn
was sung. Then they were marched to the scaffolding, where was a table on
which lay fruits and vegetables surmounted by a very much decomposed pig,
and in a semicircle round one end of this table were twelve images.
Placing Cook near the scaffolding, Koah, as King and others call Touahah,
took up the pig and holding it towards him made a long speech. Then,
dropping the offensive porker, he made signs that the two were to climb
on to the uncertain scaffolding. This being done, a procession came
forward bearing a live hog and a piece of red cloth. This last article
was handed up to Koah, who proceeded to wrap it round Cook, who was
clinging to his elevated but not very safe position. The pig was then
offered to Cook and a long address chanted. The two principal performers
then descended and returned to the table, Koah snapping his fingers at
the figures and making what appeared to be sarcastic remarks, till he
came to the centre one, when he prostrated himself and kissed it,
requesting Cook to do the same. The party then proceeded to the other
part of the Morai, and Cook was seated between two images with his arms
stretched out, one upheld by Koah, the other by King. A cooked pig and
other food was then presented with much ceremony, the meat cut up and
kava prepared; whilst Koah's assistant chewed some coconut, wrapped it in
cloth, and then rubbed it over Cook's face, head, shoulders, and arms.
Koah and Parea then pulled pieces of the pig and put them into the mouths
of the two officers. King says that Parea was a particularly cleanly
person, so he did not so much mind this feeding, but Cook, remembering
how Koah had handled the putrid hog, was unable to swallow a mouthful,
"and his reluctance, as may be supposed, was not diminished, when the old
man, according to his own mode of civility, had chewed it for him." Cook
then put an end to further proceedings by distributing some presents to
the attendants and returning to the ship.
Though the meaning of this ceremony could only be a matter of conjecture,
it was very evident that it was intended as a mark of high respect to the
person of Captain Cook. The title of Orono given to him, and often quoted
as evidence that he had permitted himself to be looked upon as a god by
the natives was also given to one, if not more, of their own chiefs; and
Burney says that the marks of honour conferred on him were exactly the
same as those conferred on any one of their own superior chieftains. The
grotesque description given by some of the missionary writers of the
whole population crawling after him on hands and knees as a mark of
adoration is utterly untrue, for Mr. King, who was ashore almost the
whole time of the ship's stay, and was continually with Cook, distinctly
says:
"The crowd which had collected on the shore, retired at our approach; and
not a person was to be seen, except a few lying prostrate on the ground,
near the huts of the adjoining village."
None of those who were on the voyage and have left any record behind
them, suggest that Cook was treated in any respect otherwise than as a
great chief and a man.
A small potato field was placed under tabu, near the Morai, for the
purpose of the observatory, and a camp under the command of King was
established there. This camp was daily supplied with meat and vegetables,
even more than could be consumed, and several canoe-loads were sent off
to the ships. After enquiry it was found that the whole expense of this
food was borne by Koah, and no return whatever was demanded.
A ROYAL VISIT.
A tabu was placed on the whole of the bay on the 24th, and trading came
to a complete standstill, the reason given being the coming of the king,
Terreeoboo. He arrived the next day, and commerce at once revived. He
paid a private visit, with his wife and children, to the Resolution,
remaining on board some time, and proved to be the same chief they had
seen at the Island of Mowee. The next day he, accompanied by several
important chiefs, all dressed in rich feather cloaks and armed with long
spears and daggers, paid a state visit. Koah was also present in a canoe
with other priests and two large basket-work idols, whose distorted faces
were adorned with pearl-shell eyes and dog's teeth; he was attended by
two other canoes, one filled with pigs and vegetables, and these paddled
round the ships, the priests singing "in most solemn fashion," and
returned to the shore. Cook followed; King turned out the guard and
saluted Terreeoboo, and then conducted him to the tent, where, after
seating himself for a few moments, he took off his helmet and cloak and
placed them on Cook, at the same time ordering five or six more, of great
value, to be placed at his feet. Hogs, bread-fruit, etc., were then
brought in. Cook and Terreeoboo exchanged names as a peculiar mark of
friendship, and the ceremony ended by the presentation of the two
boat-loads of provisions by a deputation of the priests. One of those
present was a nephew of the king, called by the English Maiha-Maiha,
afterwards known to the world as Kamehameha I.
As many of the chiefs as the Resolution's pinnace would hold were taken
off with the king to the ship, and the latter was duly invested with a
white linen shirt and Cook's own sword. During the whole of this
performance no canoes excepting those actually engaged were to be seen in
the bay, and all the natives remained lying on the ground or in their
houses. Clerke, who had been too ill to share in these ceremonies, landed
for the first time on the 28th, and, though quite unexpected, he received
a very handsome present of food, and Terreeoboo paid the Discovery a
state call, taking with him presents similar to those given to Cook. In
the afternoon he paid a second (private) call in a small canoe with three
paddles, one of which he wielded himself. On this occasion there were no
prostrations, but if any native met his chief he simply got out of the
way unless some service was required of him.
The ships were running very short of firewood, and as there was none
growing less than a mile and a half off the sea, Mr. King was ordered to
try and purchase the fence surrounding the top of the Morai. He
hesitated, as he thought that:
"even the bare mention of it might be considered by them [the priests] as
a piece of shocking impiety. In this, however, I found myself mistaken.
Not the smallest surprise was expressed at the application, and the wood
was readily given, even without stipulating for anything in return."
He saw the sailors were carrying away the figures as well, and spoke to
Koah on the subject, who raised no objection, except with regard to the
centre one, which was at once returned. Burney says that two launch-loads
for each ship were obtained, "a seasonable supply, as we had been four
months since we wooded."
On 31st January Whatman, one of the gunner's crew, and greatly attached
to Cook, died and was buried in the Morai. Besant thinks that this had
some influence on the minds of the natives, and may have contributed to
Cook's death, but as it was done by Terreeoboo's special request it is
difficult to see how the idea can be justified.
A LARGE PRESENT.
Enquiries were several times made as to the date of the departure of the
ships, and hints were given that supplies were running short; but at the
same time they were informed that if they returned the next bread-fruit
season, their wants should be again supplied. When the news went forth
that they would leave in two days, Terreeoboo issued a proclamation for
food to be brought in so that he might make a large present on their
departure; and on the appointed day Cook and King were invited to
Terreeoboo's residence, where they found all that had been given in
exchange to the natives was laid out on the ground, and a short distance
away a large quantity of vegetables of all kinds and a herd of pigs,
which were handed over on a return present being made. King says that the
gift "far exceeded everything of the kind we had seen." The camp ashore
was then broken up, and a great effort was made to persuade Cook to
permit Mr. King to remain, as he had succeeded in making himself a great
favourite with all. A house that had been used by the sailmakers was
accidentally set on fire, Burney says by natives looking for a knife lost
by one of the sailors; but Besant, who places the fire at a later period,
says it was done intentionally in revenge for the sailors having enticed
some of the women there, and infers that Gilbert is his authority, but in
the extracts he publishes from Gilbert's manuscript there is nothing of
the kind, and no one refers to any other fire till after Cook's death.