CHAPTER 16. 1776 TO 1777. THIRD VOYAGE.

On 24th June Cook and Omai joined the ship at the Nore, leaving next day

for Plymouth, arriving there on 30th, three days after the Discovery. On

8th July the final orders, which Cook had helped to draw up, were

received. They were to the effect that he was to proceed by the Cape of

Good Hope; to look for some islands said to have been seen by the French

in latitude 48 degrees, about the longitude of Mauritius; to touch at New

Zealand, if he thought proper; and then to proceed to Otaheite and leave

Omai there, or at the Society Islands, as the latter might wish. Leaving

Otaheite about February he was to strike the North American coast in

about 45 degrees latitude, avoiding, if possible, touching at any of the

Spanish dominions, and proceeding northwards to explore any rivers or

inlets that seemed likely to lead to Hudson's or Baffin's Bay. For the

winter he was to proceed to the Port of St. Peter and St. Paul in

Kamtschatka, or other suitable place, and in the ensuing spring he was

again to try and find a passage either to the east or west; failing that,

the ships were then to return to England. A reward of 20,000 pounds had

been offered to any British merchant ship that discovered a passage

between Hudson's Bay and the Pacific; and now this offer was thrown open

to any ship flying the British flag, and the passage might be to the east

or west so long as it was north of latitude 52 degrees.

On 9th July the marines, who had been carefully selected, embarked under

the command of Lieutenant Molesworth Phillips, and the following day

officers and men were paid up to 30th June, and petty officers and seamen

received in addition two months' advance.

THE RESOLUTION SAILS.

The Resolution sailed on 12th July, the crew looking on it as a lucky

day, being the anniversary of the day they had sailed on the last voyage;

but as Clerke had not yet arrived, the Discovery remained behind. Putting

in to Teneriffe, Cook purchased a supply of wine, which he did not think

as good as that of Madeira, but remarks that the best Teneriffe wine was

"12 pounds a pipe, whereas the best Madeira is seldom under 27 pounds."

Here they met "Captain Baurdat" (the Chevalier de Borda), who was making

observations in order to time two watch machines, and were afforded an

opportunity of comparing them with their own. Looking into Port Praya in

hopes to find the Discovery they crossed the line on 1st September in

longitude 27 degrees 38 minutes West, and sighted the Cape of Good Hope

on 17th October, anchoring in Table Bay the next day. The ship was found

to be very leaky in her upper works, as the great heat had opened up her

seams which had been badly caulked at first. "Hardly a man that could lie

dry in his bed; the officers in the gun-room were all driven out of their

cabin by the water that came in through the sides." The sails were

damaged, some being quite ruined before they could be dried.

The reception accorded by the Dutch was all that could be desired, and

all the resources of the place were at Cook's disposal. Letters were sent

to England and one invalid, Cook wishing afterwards that he had sent one

or two more, but he had at the time hopes of their complete recovery. On

31st October they were unable to communicate with the shore owing to a

heavy south-easterly gale which did not blow itself out for three days,

and the Resolution was the only ship in the bay that rode through it

without dragging her anchors. On the 10th November the Discovery arrived,

having left Plymouth on 1st August. She sighted land above twenty-five

leagues north of Table Bay, but had been blown off the coast in the

storm.

It may be noted here that the French, Spanish, and United States

Governments issued instructions to their naval officers that Captain Cook

and his ships were to be treated with every respect, and as belonging to

a neutral and allied power. An honour to Cook, and also to the nations

who conferred it on him.

When her consort arrived Cook was almost ready for sea, so the refit of

the Discovery was pushed on as quickly as possible, but some delay arose

in the delivery of bread ordered. Cook says he believes the bakers would

not put it in hand till they saw the Discovery safely at anchor. However,

on 30th November Clerke was handed his instructions, and the two Captains

went on board their respective ships to find them fully supplied for a

voyage which was expected to last at least two years. Live stock had been

purchased at the Cape, and one journalist says that on leaving, the

Resolution reminded him of Noah's Ark.

They did not get clear of the coast till 3rd December owing to light

winds, and then on the 6th "a sudden heavy squall" cost the Resolution

her mizzen topmast; not a very serious loss, for they had a spare stick,

and the broken one "had often complained," but Burney says that owing to

the weather it took them three days to complete the repairs. The cold,

rough weather also had a bad effect on the live stock, several of them

perishing.

DENSE FOG.

On 12th December the islands discovered by Marion du Fresne and Crozet in

1772 were sighted, and as they were unnamed in the map, dated 1775, given

by Crozet to Cook, he called them Prince Edward's Islands, and a small

group further to the east was named Marion and Crozet Islands. Then

sailing south through fog so dense that, Burney says, they were often for

hours together unable to see twice the length of the ship, and, though it

was the height of summer, the cold was so intense that the warm clothing

had to be resorted to, they sighted Kerguelen's Land on 24th December.

The Chevalier de Borda had given Cook 48 degrees 26 minutes South, 64

degrees 57 minutes East of Paris as the position of Rendezvous Island;

this Cook took to be an isolated rock they only just weathered in the

fog, to which he gave the name of Bligh's Cap, for he said: "I know

nothing that can Rendezvous at it but fowls of the air, for it is

certainly inaccessible to every other animal." Cook, unaware that

Kerguelen had paid two visits to the place, found some difficulty in

recognising the places described. The country was very desolate, the

coarse grass hardly worth cutting for the animals; no wood, but a good

supply of water was obtained; and here the Christmas Day was spent on the

27th, as the 25th and 26th had been full of hard work. A bottle was found

by one of the crew containing a parchment record of the visit of the

French in 1772; on the back Cook noted the names of his ships and the

year of their visit, and adding a silver twopenny piece of 1772, replaced

it in the bottle which was sealed with lead and hidden in a pile of

stones in such a position that it could not escape the notice of any one

visiting the spot. Running along the coast to the south-east they

encountered very blowy weather, and finding the land even more desolate

than that at Christmas Harbour, they left on the 31st for New Zealand.

Anderson, the surgeon, on whom Cook relied for his notes on Natural

History, says:

"Perhaps no place hitherto discovered in either hemisphere under the same

parallel of latitude affords so scanty a field for the naturalist as this

barren spot."

The whole catalogue of plants, including lichens, did not exceed sixteen

or eighteen.

A SOUTHERLY BUSTER.

The first part of January 1777 was foggy, and Cook says they "ran above

300 leagues in the dark." On the 19th a squall carried away the fore

topmast and main topgallant mast, and it took the whole day to replace

the first, but they had nothing suitable for the top gallant mast. On

26th January they put into Adventure Bay, Van Diemen's Land, and obtained

a spar; Cook spoke of the timber as being good but too heavy. A few

natives were seen, but did not create a favourable impression, still Cook

landed a couple of pigs in hopes to establish the breed, a hope doomed to

be unsatisfied. The Marquis de Beauvoir relates that in 1866 he saw in

Adventure Bay a tree on which was cut with a knife: Cook, 26th Jan. 1777,

and he was informed it had been cut by the man himself. They seem to have

seen nothing to raise a doubt about Furneaux's conclusion that Van

Diemen's Land formed a part of Australia, so no attempt was made to

settle the question, and they sailed for New Zealand on the 30th, meeting

with a "perfect storm" from the south; the thermometer rose:

"almost in an instant from about 70 degrees to near 90 degrees, but fell

again when the wind commenced, in fact the change was so rapid that there

were some on board who did not notice it."

These storms are of frequent occurrence, and are locally known as

Southerly Busters.

On 10th February Rocks Point, near Cape Farewell, was sighted, and on the

12th they anchored near their old berth in Queen Charlotte's Sound, and a

camp was immediately established. Here they were visited by a few of the

natives, some of whom remembered Cook and were recognised by him. At

first they thought he had come to avenge the Adventure's losses, but

after a time were persuaded to put aside their distrust, and they flocked

down to the shore, every available piece of ground being quickly occupied

by their huts. Cook describes how one party worked. The ground was

selected, the men tearing up the grass and plants, and erected the huts,

whilst the women looked after the canoes, properties, and provisions, and

collected firewood; and he kept the children and some of the oldest of

the party out of mischief by scrambling the contents of his pockets

amongst them. At the same time he noticed that however busy the men might

be, they took care to be within easy reach of their weapons; and he on

his side had a strong party of marines on duty, and any party working at

a distance from the ship was always armed and under the command of an

officer experienced in dealing with the natives. Cook was pleased to

notice his men were not inclined to associate with the Maoris, and he

always tried to discourage familiarity between his crew and the natives

of the islands he visited. It is worthy of remark that two of the

Resolution were on the sick list, whilst the Discovery had a clean bill

of health.

One of their constant visitors was a man Cook calls Kahoura, who was

pointed out as having been the leader at the massacre of the Adventure's

men, and it was a matter of surprise to the natives that having him in

his power Cook did not kill him; but after the fullest possible enquiry

Cook believed it was best to let matters rest, as the attack had

evidently arisen out of a sudden quarrel, and was totally unpremeditated.

Burney thinks the Maoris felt a certain contempt for the English, either

because they were too generous in their dealings, or else because the

murders were unavenged.

The gardens that had been made at the last visit had in some respects

prospered; in particular the potatoes from the Cape had improved in

quality, but as they had been appreciated by the natives, there were few

to be got. Burney, on the other hand, declares that nothing could be

heard of the pigs and fowls that had been left. Omai was anxious to take

a New Zealander away with him, and soon found one to volunteer. It was

explained that he must make up his mind that he would not be able to

return, and as he seemed satisfied he and a boy were taken. When they

were seasick they deeply and loudly lamented leaving their home, but on

recovery they soon became "as firmly attached to us as if they had been

born amongst us."

THE WEEKLY PAPER.

Sailing on 25th February, they crossed the tropic on 27th March, some 9

degrees further west than Cook wished to have done, and had seen nothing

of importance. It is interesting to note that Burney says each ship

published a weekly paper, and on signal being made a boat was sent to

exchange when possible. He says Cook was a "Constant Reader," but not a

"Contributor." It is to be regretted that no copies exist of this,

probably the first oceanic weekly.

On 29th March, a small island Cook calls Manganouia was discovered in 21

degrees 57 minutes South, 201 degrees 53 minutes East (Burney gives 21

degrees 54 minutes South, 202 degrees 6 minutes East.) but the

landing-places were too dangerous on account of the surf. A native came

on board who was able to converse with Omai, and said they had plenty of

plantains and taro, but neither yams, hogs, nor dogs. He unfortunately

fell over a goat, which he took to be a large bird, and was so frightened

he had to be put ashore. The next day another island was seen, and as

they were very short of fodder for the animals, Gore was sent to see if

trade could be opened up with the inhabitants. In this he was fairly

successful, and obtained a quantity of plantain stems, which were found

to be a satisfactory substitute for grass; but the trading was not brisk,

for the people wished to receive dogs in return, and it was evident that

though they had none, they knew what they were. They were afraid of the

horses and cattle, and took the sheep and goats for some kind of large

birds. A party went ashore and were treated fairly well, but when they

wished to return to their boats all sorts of difficulties were raised,

and Cook credits Omai with their safe return; for it seems he gave

judiciously boastful replies to the many questions that were asked him,

and at the psychological moment exploded a handful of powder, with the

result that opposition to their departure was withdrawn. Burney says Omai

was most useful on a landing party, as he was a good sportsman and cook,

and was never idle. After this experience Cook would not run further

risks, so made for a small uninhabited island where some vegetables were

obtained and branches of trees, which, cut into short lengths, were

eagerly eaten by the cattle, and Cook says: "It might be said, without

impropriety, that we fed our cattle on billet wood." Payment for what had

been taken was left in a deserted village.

On 6th April they reached Hervey's Island, and were somewhat surprised to

be visited by several canoes, as on Cook's previous visit no signs of

inhabitants had been noticed. Omai gathered from one or two natives who

came on board to sell a few fish, that the Resolution and Adventure had

been seen in 1776 when passing the island. King was sent to look for a

landing-place, but, seeing that the women were quietly bringing down arms

to their menfolk on the beach, he thought it better to return to the

ship, and sail was made for the Friendly Islands, the Discovery being

sent on about a league ahead, as she was better able "to claw off a lee

shore than mine." At this time Cook was getting rather short of water, so

he set the still to work, and obtained from "13 to 16 gallons of fresh

water" between 6 A.M. and 4 P.M. "There has lately been made some

IMPROVEMENT, as they are pleased to call it, to this machine, which in my

opinion is much for the worse." Falling in with repeated thunderstorms in

which they caught more water in an hour "than by the still in a month, I

laid it a side as a thing attended with more trouble than profit."

At one of the Palmerston Group they found, amongst other things drifted

over the reef, some planks, one of which was very thick, with trunnell

holes in it, and a piece of moulding from some ship's upper works,

painted yellow, with nail holes showing signs of iron rust: probably the

remains of some wrecked European ship. At Comango, where they anchored on

28th April, Cook notes:

"It was remarkable that during the whole day the Indians would hardly

part with any one thing to anybody but me; Captain Clerke did not get

above one or two hogs."

A supply of water was obtained and wood was cut, but most of the trees

were what Cook calls Manchineel, the sap from which produced blisters on

the men's skin, and Burney says some of them were blind for a fortnight,

having rubbed their faces with their juice-stained hands. One of the

carpenters had a bad fall and broke his leg, but for the rest, says

Burney, they were "in good health; thank God, no appearance of scurvy."

FLOGGING NO GOOD.

Cook again complains of the thefts committed so continually, and says

that no punishment they could devise was effectual, for "flogging made no

more impression than it would have done upon the mainmast." The chiefs

would advise him to kill those caught, but as he would not proceed to

such a length the culprits generally escaped unpunished. Here the

Discovery lost her best bower anchor, the cable having been chafed by the

coral and parted when weighing; Burney describes how by pouring oil on

the water they were able to see and recover it from a depth of seventeen

fathoms. Landing on Happi they were very well received, and obtained

plentiful supplies of fresh food, which was most opportune. An

entertainment of boxing, wrestling, and combats with clubs made from

green coconut boughs was held in their honour; and Cook says that they

were carried on with the greatest good-humour in the presence of some

three thousand spectators, "though some, women as well as men, have

received blows they must feel some time after." When this was over the

chief, Feenough, presented Cook with supplies that required four boats to

take to the ships; it "far exceeded any present I had ever before

received from an Indian Prince." The donor was invited on board to

receive his return present, which proved so satisfactory that on his

return to the shore he forwarded still more in addition to his first

gift, and was amused by a drill of the marines and a display of

fireworks, which, though some were spoilt, were the cause of astonishment

and pleasure to the wondering natives. During one of his walks on shore

Cook saw a woman just completing a surgical operation on a child's eyes.

She was removing a film growing over the eyeballs, and the instruments

used are described as slender wooden probes. He was not able to say if

the operation were successful.

The chief, Feenough, went off to an island about two days' sail away, in

order to obtain some of the feather caps which were held in high

estimation; and Cook promised to wait for his return, but finding the

fresh supplies were running short, he sailed along the south of the reef

and put in to a bay in Lefooga. On the way the Discovery ran on a shoal,

but managed to back off without damage. Although he was not short of

water, Cook went ashore to inspect some well which he had been informed

contained water of a very superior quality, but he found it very bad, and

says: "This will not be the only time I shall have to remark that these

people do not know what good water is." Near these wells was a large

artificial mound about forty feet high, and fifty feet diameter on the

top, on which large trees were growing. At the foot was a hewn block of

coral, four feet broad, two and a half feet thick, and fourteen feet

high, but the natives present said that there was only one half of it

above ground. It was supposed to have been erected to the memory of a

great chief, but how many years ago it was impossible to guess.

KING POLAHO.

Whilst anchored here, a large sailing canoe arrived, having on board a

chief who was treated by the natives with the utmost respect, and the

visitors were given to understand that Tattafee Polaho was the king of

all the islands. He was invited on board, and brought with him as a

present:

"two good fat hogs, though not so fat as himself, for he was the most

corporate, plump fellow we had met with. I found him to be a sedate,

sensible man; he viewed the ship and the several new objects with

uncommon attention, and asked several pertinent questions."

In return Cook was invited ashore, and when they were seated, the natives

who had been trading submitted the articles they had received for

Polaho's inspection, who enquired what each one had sold, and seemed

pleased with the bargains made. Everything was returned to its owner,

excepting a red glass bowl to which the king had taken a great fancy.

According to Mr. Basil Thomson, who was for some years in the Pacific

Islands, a red glass bowl was given by the King of Tonga to the notorious

Mr. Shirley Baker, as a relic of Captain Cook, but was unfortunately

broken in New Zealand. It was most probably the one in question. Before

leaving, Polaho presented Cook with one of the red feather caps made from

the tail feathers of the bird the Sandwich Islanders call Iiwi (Vestiaria

coicinea), which were evidently considered of extreme value. At the same

time he gave Cook, Clerke, and Omai some of the red feathers of paraquets

which, though much in demand, were not to be purchased.

On 29th May they sailed for Tongatabu, but, the wind failing, they nearly

ran ashore on the 31st on a low sandy island on which the sea was

breaking very heavily. Fortunately all hands had just been engaged in

putting the ship about, "so that the necessary movements were not only

executed with judgment but with alertness, and this alone saved the

ship." Cook confesses that he was tired of beating about in these

dangerous waters, and felt relieved to get back to his old anchorage off

Annamooka. Feenough here rejoined the ship, and his behaviour before

Polaho was sufficient evidence as to the high position held by the

latter, for he made a deep reverence to him, and afterwards would not eat

or drink in his presence, but left the cabin as soon as dinner was

announced.

AN ENTERTAINMENT.

On 6th June they sailed for Tongatabu again, accompanied by some sailing

canoes which could all easily outdistance the two ships. A good anchorage

was found, and Cook's old friends, Otago and Toobough, were soon on board

to greet them. As it was proposed to make a short stay, the cattle were

landed, the observatory set up, and the sail-makers set to work to

overhaul the sails, for much-required repairs. Cook speaks very highly of

the orderly behaviour of the natives, many of whom had never seen a white

man before. Hearing much of an important chief named Mariwaggee, Cook

persuaded the king to escort a party to his residence, which was found to

be pleasantly situated on an inlet where most of the chiefs resided,

surrounded by neatly fenced plantations; but they were informed that

Mariwaggee had gone to see the ships. This was found to be untrue, but

the next day he appeared, accompanied by a large number of both sexes,

and Cook at once landed with some presents for him, only to find he was

accompanied by another chief, to whom something had to be given as well.

Fortunately the two were easily satisfied, and the present was divided

between them. Mariwaggee was found to be the father of Feenough, and the

father-in-law of the king. He gave a grand entertainment of singing and

dancing in honour of the strangers, which commenced about eleven in the

morning and lasted till between three and four in the afternoon, and

wound up with a presentation of a large number of yams, each pair of the

roots being tied to a stick about six feet long, and decorated with fish.

Cook says it was hard to say which was the most valuable, the yams for

food or the sticks for firewood; but, as for the fish, "it might serve to

please the sight, but was very offensive to the smell, as some of it had

been kept two or three days for this occasion." More singing and dancing

then took place, and then the English gave a display of fireworks, which

"astonished and highly entertained" the natives.

Being afraid that some of his live stock might be stolen, Cook tried to

interest some of the chiefs in them by presenting the king with a bull

and cow and some goats; to Feenough a horse and mare, and to Mariwaggee a

ram and two ewes. Some one, however, was not satisfied, and a kid and two

turkey cocks were stolen; and as thefts had been frequent and very

daring, including an attempt to steal one of the anchors of the

Discovery, which would have been successful had not one of the flukes of

the anchor got fixed in one of the chain plates, Cook determined to put

his foot down. He seized three canoes, and, hearing Feenough and some

other chiefs were in a house together, he placed a guard over them and

informed them they would be detained till the stolen goods were returned.

They took the matter coolly, and said that everything should be returned.

Some of the things being produced, Cook invited his prisoners on board

ship to dine, and when they came back the kid and a turkey were brought,

so the prisoners and canoes were released. At one time a small hostile

demonstration was made by the natives, but the landing of a few marines

and an order from the king put an end to it.

SMART WORKMEN.

The following day Cook was invited on shore and found some natives busy

erecting two sets of poles, one on each side of the place set apart for

the guests. Each set consisted of four placed in a square about two feet

apart, secured from spreading by cross pieces, and carried up to a height

of about thirty feet, the intervening space being filled with yams. On

the top of one structure were two baked pigs, and on the other alive one,

with a second tied by its legs about half way up. Cook was particularly

struck by the way the men raised these two towers, and says if he had

ordered his sailors to do such a thing, they would have wanted carpenters

and tools and at least a hundredweight of nails, and would have taken as

many days as it did these people hours. When the erections were

completed, piles of bread-fruit and yams were heaped on either side, and

a turtle and some excellent fish were added, and then the whole was

presented to Cook.

A party of officers from both ships went off to an island without leave,

and returned two days after without their muskets, ammunition, and other

articles which had been stolen. They persuaded Omai to make a private

complaint to the king, which resulted in the chiefs leaving the

neighbourhood. Their disappearance annoyed Cook, and when the affair was

explained to him he severely reprimanded Omai for speaking on the matter

without orders. This put Omai on his mettle, and he managed to persuade

Feenough to return, and informed the king that no serious consequences

should ensue. Matters were then easily smoothed over; most of the stolen

goods, including the missing turkey, were returned, and the king said he

ought not to have been held responsible, for, if he had known that any

one wished to see the island, he would have sent a chief who would have

ensured their safety.

An eclipse of the sun was to occur on 5th July, and Cook decided to

remain so as to secure observations, and meanwhile employed himself in

exploring the neighbourhood and studying the customs of the natives. On

one occasion, thinking to see an interesting ceremony, he accompanied

Polaho, who was going to do state mourning for a son who had been dead

some time. The result was disappointing, and the chief impression left

with Cook seems to have been that over their clothing of native cloth,

those present wore old and ragged mats; those of the king being the

raggedest, and "might have served his great-grandfather on some such like

occasion."

July 5th proved dark and cloudy, with heavy showers of rain, and the

observations were unsatisfactory, especially as the clouds came up

thickly in the middle of the eclipse, and the sun was seen no more for

the rest of the day. This failure was not of great importance, for the

longitude had already been satisfactorily ascertained by several very

good lunar observations, so as soon as the eclipse was over everything

was sent on board the ships, including the sheep which had been presented

to Mariwaggee. No one had taken any notice of them since they were

landed, and Cook felt sure they would be killed by the dogs as soon as

the ships left.

A NATIVE CEREMONY.

As the wind proved contrary, and it was understood that the king's son

was to be initiated into the estate of manhood, eating with his father

for the first time, Cook determined to remain a few days longer. A party

of the officers went over to the island of Moa, where the ceremony was to

be held, and found the king in a very dirty enclosure, drinking kava; and

as the method of preparing this beverage was uninviting to Europeans,

they went for a walk till about ten o'clock. Finding large numbers of

people assembling in an open space near a large building they rejoined

the king, taking off their hats and untying their hair, "that we might

appear the more decent" in the eyes of the natives. The proceedings

consisted of marching of men laden with yams tied on to sticks, of

considerable speech-making, and various performances of which the

signification could not be understood, and then the prince made his

appearance. He seated himself with a few of his friends on the ground,

and some women wound a long piece of cloth round them, and after some

more speech-making and mysterious pantomime with sticks representing

yams, the proceedings ended for the day. As there were signs that so many

white onlookers was not altogether acceptable to the natives, some of the

party returned to the ships; but Cook resolved to see it out, and joined

the king at supper, and the latter enjoyed some brandy and water so much

that Cook says "he went to bed quite grogish. "

After breakfast Cook paid a visit to the prince and presented him was

enough English cloth to make a suit, receiving native cloth in return.

After dinner the people mustered for the remains of the ceremony, and

Cook determined to join the principal party, so he seated himself with

it, and would not understand when requested to leave. He was then

requested to bare his shoulders as a mark of respect, and immediately did

so, and was then no further molested. A somewhat similar performance was

gone through as the day before, but the significance of which could not

be ascertained, and then suddenly all the people turned their backs on

king and prince, who, Cook was afterwards informed, had had pieces of

roast yam given them to eat. An exhibition of boxing and wrestling was

then given, and after a speech or two the proceedings terminated. Cook

was informed that in about three months a much greater affair would take

place at which ten men would be sacrificed.

On 10th July the ships sailed through a very difficult passage, arriving

off Middleburg on the 12th, where they were visited by their old friend

Taoofa. The country appeared flourishing, and they obtained some turnips

raised from seed sown at Cook's last visit. An exhibition of boxing was

given, and was to have been repeated the following night, but

unfortunately some of the natives fell upon a sailor and stripped him of

his clothes. Cook thereupon seized two canoes and a pig, demanding that

the culprits should be given up. A man who had the shirt and trousers was

brought, and so the canoes were returned and the pig paid for, and next

day the thief was liberated. The remainder of the sailor's clothes were

afterwards found, but so much torn as to be worthless.

They left the Friendly Islands on the 17th, after a stay of more than two

months, during which time they had been living almost entirely on food

they had purchased from the natives, with whom they had been on fairly

good terms. The 29th brought them into a very heavy squall which cost the

Resolution a couple of staysails and her consort a main topmast and main

topgallant yard, springing the head of her main-mast so badly that the

rigging of a jury-mast was attended with some danger, but it was at

length accomplished, a spare jibboom being furnished for the purpose by

the Resolution. Otaheite was reached on 12th August, and amongst the

first visitors on board were Omai's brother-in-law and others who knew

him before he went away; they treated him as if he was an Englishman and

a stranger, but when he took his brother-in-law to his cabin and gave him

some of the valuable red feathers a change came over them all, and they

expressed the greatest interest in him. Cook says Omai "would take no

advice, but permitted himself to be made the dupe of every designing

knave." Of these red feathers Cook says they were of such value that "not

more than might be got from a tomtit, would purchase a hog of 40 or 50

pounds weight." Nails and beads were not looked at, although they had

previously been very acceptable.

SPANISH SHIPS.

Two ships from Lima were found to have visited the island twice since

Cook's last call, and the first time the Spaniards built a house with

material they had with them. They left four men in charge, and were away

for about ten months. At the second visit their Commodore died, and was

buried near the house which was left at their departure, and the natives

built a shade over it to protect it from the weather. It consisted of two

rooms, furnished with table, bed, bench, and a few other trifles, and the

timbers were found to have been carefully marked to facilitate erection.

Near by was a cross having the following inscription cut on it:

CHRISTUS VINCIT,

CAROLUS III. IMPERAT, 1774.

Cook caused to be cut on the back:

GEORGIUS TERTIUS REX.

ANNIS 1767, 69, 73, 74, ET 78.

At the end of their first visit the Spaniards took away four natives to

Lima; one died, one remained at Lima, and the other two returned with the

ships; but Cook thinks they were not improved by their experience, and

had not added to their respectability in the eyes of their countrymen.

In view of the cold climate to be faced in the near future, Cook was

desirous to save his stock of spirits, and mustered the crew of the

Resolution in order to explain the position; he pointed out that the

supply of coconuts was abundant, and the benefit of the spirits would be

appreciated amongst the cold winds and ice of the north, but left the

decision to them. He was gratified to find the crew was willing to accept

his suggestion, and ordered Clerke to put the matter before the crew of

the Discovery, when it was again well received. An order was accordingly

issued to stop:

"serving grog except on Saturday nights, when they had full allowance to

drink to their female friends in England, lest amongst the pretty girls

of Otaheite, they should be wholly forgotten."

During a state visit paid by the chief of the district, at which Omai

attended "dressed in a strange medley of all he was possessed of," Cook

was informed that the Spaniards laid claim to the country, and had given

instructions that Cook was not to be allowed to land if he returned.

However, the chief executed a formal surrender of his province to Cook,

and presents were exchanged, the whole ceremony ending with a display of

fireworks which "both pleased and astonished" the natives. Some of the

civilians reported that they had discovered a Roman Catholic chapel in

their walks; but on inspection it proved to be what Cook at once

suspected, the grave of a chief decorated with different coloured cloths

and mats, and a piece of scarlet broadcloth which had been given by the

Spaniards.

RED FEATHERS.

On the 23rd August the two ships arrived in Matavai Bay, where they were

well received by Otoo, who was gratified by a present of a fine linen

suit, a hat with a gold band, some tools, a feather helmet from the

Friendly Islands, and, what he seemed to value most, a large bunch of the

celebrated red feathers. In return he sent on board the ships enough food

to have lasted both crews for a week, if it had only been possible to

keep it good for that length of time. The royal family dined on board the

Resolution; and after dinner Cook and Omai called on Oparee, taking with

them a peacock and peahen sent to the island by Lord Bessborough, a

turkey cock and hen, a gander and three geese, a drake and four ducks to

make a start in stocking the island. A gander was seen, which the natives

said had been left by Wallis ten years previously; several goats and a

bull left by the Spaniards were also seen, so Cook landed three cows as

company for the last. The horses and sheep were also landed, and Cook

remarks that getting rid of all these animals lightened him:

"of a very heavy burden; the trouble and vexation that attended the

bringing these animals thus far is hardly to be conceived. But the

satisfaction I felt in having been so fortunate as to fulfil His

Majesty's design in sending such useful animals to two worthy nations

sufficiently recompensed me for the many anxious hours I had on their

account."

Whilst here, the two ships were thoroughly overhauled and everywhere put

into as good a state of repair as the appliances available would permit.

The stores were found to be in a better state than had been expected, and

very little of the bread was damaged. Gardens were laid out and planted

with potatoes, melons, pineapples, etc.; but Cook was not very sanguine

of their success, for he had seen how a vine planted by the Spaniards had

been spitefully trampled down, as the natives, tasting the grapes before

they were ripe, had concluded it was poisonous. It was carefully pruned

into proper shape again, and Omai was instructed to set forth its merits

and how it should be cultivated.

Towards the end of the month a man reported that the two Spanish ships

had returned, and showed a piece of cloth he said he had obtained from

them, so Cook, not knowing if England and Spain were on friendly terms,

prepared for the worst, and the two ships made ready for defence if

necessary. Lieutenant Williamson was despatched in a boat for news, but

could see no ships, nor signs of any having been on the coast since the

English left their last port of call.

A HUMAN SACRIFICE.

At their last visit an expedition was being prepared against the revolted

island of Eimeo, but it did not seem to have been very successful in its

object, for there were still disturbances going on between the two

nations, and on 30th August news came that the Otaheitans had been driven

up into the hills. A grand meeting was held to discuss matters, and great

efforts were made to enlist the services of Cook; but he would not assist

in any way, as he did not understand the cause of the quarrel, and he had

always found the inhabitants of Eimeo friendly towards him. Having heard

that a chief named Towha had killed a man as a sacrifice to their God,

Cook obtained permission to witness the remaining ceremonies as he

thought it offered an opportunity to learn something of the religion of

this people. He therefore started with Dr. Anderson, Mr. Webber, and the

chief Potatow in a boat, accompanied by Omai in a canoe, for the scene of

action. On their arrival the sailors were instructed to remain in the

boat, and the gentlemen were requested to remove their hats as soon as

they reached the Morai where the ceremonial was to take place. When they

got there the body of the victim was seen in a small canoe in front of

the Morai and just in the wash of the sea, in charge of four priests and

their attendants, the king and his party some twenty or thirty paces

away, and the rest of the spectators a little further still. Two priests

came forward to Otoo, one placing a young plantain tree in front of him,

and the other touching his foot with a bunch of red feathers, and then

rejoining the others, who immediately went off to a smaller Morai near,

and, seating themselves facing the sea, one commenced reciting a long

prayer, occasionally sending one of his attendants to place a young

plantain on the body. Whilst this recitation was going on an attendant

stood near holding two small bundles "seemingly of cloth; in one, as we

afterwards found, was the Royal Maro, and the other, if I may be allowed

the expression, was the ark of the Eatua" [God].

This prayer being ended, the priests returned to the beach, and more

prayers were said, the plantains being moved, one by one, from the body

and placed in front of the priests. Then the body, wrapped in leaves, was

put on the beach, with the feet to the sea, and the priests gathered

round, some sitting, some standing, the prayers still going on. The

leaves were then stripped off the body, and it was turned sideways on to

the sea, and one priest standing at the feet repeated another long prayer

in which he was occasionally joined by the others. Each priest at this

time held in his hand a bunch of the red feathers. Some hair was now

pulled from the head of the corpse, and an eye taken out, wrapped in

leaves and presented to Otoo, who did not touch them, but sent them back

with a bunch of feathers, soon after sending a second bunch he had asked

Cook to put in his pocket for him when starting. At this time a

king-fisher made a noise in some trees near, and Otoo remarked, "That is

the Eatua," evidently looking on it as a good omen.

The body was now moved away to the foot of one of the small Morais, the

two bundles of cloth being placed on the Morai at its head and the tufts

of feathers at its feet, the priests surrounding the body and the people

gathering in closer. More speeches were made, and a second lock of hair

plucked from the head and placed on the Morai. Then the red feathers were

placed on the cloth bundles, which were carried over to the great Morai

and laid against a pile of stones, to which the body was also brought,

and the attendants proceeded to dig a grave, whilst the priests continued

their recitations. The body was then buried, and a dog Towha had sent

over (a very poor one, says Cook) was partially cooked and presented to

the priests, who called on Eatua to come and see what was prepared for

him, at the same time putting it on a small altar on which were the

remains of two dogs and three pigs, which smelt so intolerably that the

white men were compelled to move further away than they wished. This

ended the ceremony for the day.

THE KING'S MARO.

Next morning they all returned to the Morai; a pig was sacrificed and

placed on the same altar, and about eight o'clock the priests, Otoo, and

a great number of people assembled. The two bundles were still in the

same place as on the previous night, but two drums were now standing in

front of them between which Otoo and Cook seated themselves. The priests,

placing a plantain tree in front of the king, resumed their praying, each

having his bunch of feathers in his hand. They then moved off to a place

between the Morai and the king and placed the feathers bunch by bunch on

the bundles, the prayers still going on. Four pigs were then produced,

one immediately killed, and the others put in a sty for future use. The

bundle containing the king's Maro was now untied and spread carefully on

the ground before the priests. The Maro was about five yards long by

fifteen inches broad, composed of red and yellow feathers, chiefly

yellow. At one end was a border of eight pieces about the size and shape

of horse-shoes fringed with black pigeon's feathers; the other end was

forked, the ends being of unequal length. The feathers were arranged in

two rows and had a very good effect. They were fastened on a piece of

native cloth, and then sewn to the English pendant which Wallis left

flying when he sailed from Matavai Bay. After the priests had repeated

another prayer, the emblem of royalty was carefully folded up and

replaced on the Morai, and then one end of what Cook called the Ark of

the Eatua was opened, but the visitors were not permitted to see what it

contained. The entrails of the pig were then prayed over, and one of the

priests stirred them gently with a stick, evidently trying to draw a

favourable omen from their movements. They were then thrown on the fire,

the partly-cooked pig was deposited on the altar, and when the bunches of

feathers that had been used had been placed in the Ark, the ceremony was

over.

The meanings of all this could not be discovered, but it was found that

when a victim was wanted, a chief picked him out and sent his servants to

kill him. This was done without any warning to the man who was to suffer,

usually by a blow with a stone on the head, and it appeared that at the

subsequent ceremony the presence of the king was absolutely

indispensable. Chiefs of an enemy's tribe who were killed in battle were

buried with some state in the Morais, the common men at the foot.

On the way back to the ship Cook called on Towha, who had supplied the

victim. He was anxious to ascertain Cook's opinion of the affair, and was

not pleased to learn that Cook thought such a proceeding was more likely

to offend the Deity than to please him. He then enquired if the English

ever practised such ceremonies, and was very angry when he was informed

that if the greatest chief in England killed one of his men he would be

hanged; and Cook says they left him "with as great a contempt for our

customs as we could possibly have for theirs." The servants evidently

listened to Omai with great interest and a different opinion on the

subject than that of their master.

They went to inspect the body of a chief who had been embalmed; they were

not allowed to examine it very closely, but it was so well done that they

were unable to perceive the slightest unpleasant smell, though the man

had been dead some months. All chiefs who died a natural death were

preserved in this manner, and from time to time were exposed to public

view, the intervals between the exposures gradually extending till at

length they were hardly ever seen. The method of preservation was not

ascertained, and was probably a secret of the priests.

EQUESTRIAN EXERCISE.

Cook and Clerke astonished the natives by riding the horses that had been

brought out; their progress through the country was always watched with

great interest, and Cook thought that this use of the animals impressed

the people more than anything else done by the whites. Omai tried his

powers on several occasions, but as he was always thrown before he got

securely into the saddle, his efforts only produced entertainment for the

spectators. It is curious to note that forty years afterwards the people

had so thoroughly lost even the tradition of such use of the horse that

Mr. Ellis relates how, when one was landed for the use of Pomare, the

natives assisted to get it ashore, but when once landed they ran away and

hid in fear of the "man-carrying pig." About this time Cook suffered from

a bad attack of rheumatism in the legs, and was successfully treated by

Otoo's mother, three sisters, and eight other women. The process he

underwent, called Romy, consisted of squeezing and kneading from head to

foot, more especially about the parts affected. Cook says he was glad to

escape from their ministrations after about a quarter of an hour, but he

felt relief, and, after submitting to four operations of the kind he was

completely cured.

Otoo was very desirous to send a present of a canoe to King George, and

Cook was very willing to take it, but when he found it was a large double

canoe he was obliged to decline from want of space. As the desire to send

it was quite spontaneous on Otoo's part, and as the canoe was a very fine

specimen of native work, the refusal was given with great regret.

In a journal published by Newbery, the anonymous writer says that two

officers fought a duel whilst the ships were at Otaheite. He does not

give the cause, but says three shots were exchanged, resulting in one hat

being spoiled, and then the antagonists shook hands and were better

friends afterwards. The story is not confirmed by any of the other

journals.

On 29th September, after giving Otoo a short run out to sea and back, the

two ships sailed for the north side of Eimeo, arriving the next day, and

were greeted by a chief, Maheine, who was bald-headed. Of this defect he

seemed much ashamed, and always appeared with his head covered with a

sort of turban. Cook thinks perhaps this shame rose from the fact that

natives caught stealing on the ships were often punished by having their

heads shaved, and adds that "one or two of the gentlemen whose heads were

not overburdened with hair, lay under violent suspicions of being titos

(thieves)."

One of the few remaining goats was stolen, but after threats of serious

reprisals was given up, together with the thief, who was eventually

discharged with a caution; but on a second one disappearing and not being

found after careful search, Cook felt that he must make an example, or

nothing would be safe, so he ordered one or two houses and canoes to be

destroyed, and sent word to Maheine that he would not leave a canoe on

the island if the goat was not returned. The goat was recovered, and the

next day the people were as friendly as if nothing had occurred. Cook was

particularly annoyed, for he had sent a present of red feathers to Otoo,

and requested him to send in return a couple of goats to Eimeo.

OMAI SETTLED.

On 11th October the ships sailed for Huaheine, and when they arrived Cook

was so ill he had to be landed from the ship, but he makes no mention of

it in his Journal. He thought this island would be more suitable for Omai

than Otaheite, and as Omai was agreeable a piece of ground was obtained

from the chief and a small house erected and a garden laid out and

planted. The interest of the different chiefs of the neighbourhood was

sought on Omai's behalf, and as it was seen that some of the natives were

inclined to take advantage of his good nature, Cook let it be understood

that if, should he return and find Omai in an satisfactory condition,

some one would feel the weight of his displeasure. Then the most serious

thing that can be brought against Cook's treatment of the natives

occurred. In extenuation it must be remembered that he admits that he was

inclined to be hot-tempered, though it did not last; he had been

constantly irritated by repeated losses, and he was at the time really

seriously ill, and also when all was over he sincerely regretted he had

taken such strong measures.

Mr. Bayley's sextant was stolen from the observatory: Cook at once

demanded from the chiefs that it should be returned, but they paid no

attention. The thief, however, was pointed out, seized, and taken on

board ship; the sextant was recovered, but Cook says, finding the thief

to be "a hardened scoundrel, I punished him with greater severity than I

have ever done any one before, and then dismissed him." He is said to

have had his head shaved and his ears cut off, but Gilbert (midshipman on

the Discovery) says this was not done till he had been rearrested for

damaging Omai's garden, trying to set fire to the house, and threatening

to kill Omai as soon as the ships left. Cook had intended to remove him

from the island, but, being in irons, he stole the keys from a sleeping

guard and made his escape. Omai found that many of the articles which

were practically useless to him, would be appreciated on the ships, so he

very wisely changed them for hatchets and other useful articles. A notice

of the visit with the names of the ships was cut on the end of Omai's

house, and, after firing a salute of five guns, the ships sailed on 2nd

November. Omai accompanied them for a short way, and Mr. King says that

when he parted from Cook he completely broke down and cried all the way

ashore. Cook speaks well of him, saying he seldom had to find fault with

him, that he had many good qualities, but, like the rest of his race, he

lacked powers of observation, application, and perseverance.

DESERTIONS.

On the 3rd they were off Ulietea, and as they were able to run in close

to the shore a staging was erected, and the ballast ports were opened so

as to give the rats, which had become very troublesome, a chance of going

ashore. One of the marines also took the opportunity to desert, taking

his musket with him, but after a little trouble was arrested; and having

previously borne a very good character, he was let off with a short

imprisonment. A second desertion occurred from the Discovery, Mr. Mouat,

midshipman, and a seaman getting away. Cook says the affair gave him more

trouble than both men were worth, but he insisted on getting them back to

prevent others following their example, and "to save the son of a brother

officer from being lost to the world." They were found to have gone off

in a canoe to another island, and Cook ordered Clerke to detain the

chief, his son, daughter, and son-in-law on the Discovery, where they had

gone to dine, and to inform them they would be kept as hostages till the

runaways were returned. Three days afterwards the deserters were brought

back, and the hostages were at once released. It was afterwards found out

that there had been a plot to seize Cook in retaliation, when he went for

his usual bath in the evening, but, as it happened, he was so much

worried that he put it off and so escaped. Burney notes that Cook could

not swim. Before leaving they received a message from Omai, saying he was

all right, but asking for another goat as one of his was dead. Clerke was

able to oblige him with two kids, one of each sex.

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