CHAPTER XXI

VISITS TO ENGLAND

1896

In 1896 I found myself again utterly broken down in health

and strength. I had, the November before, a slight paralysis

in the face, which affected the muscles of the lower lid of

one of my eyes, causing a constant irritation in the organ

itself. After a time this caused a distortion of the lips,

which I concealed somewhat by a moustache. But it operated,

for a little while, as an effective disguise. When I came

home during the winter, an old conductor on the Boston & Albany

Railroad, whom I had known quite well, when he took my ticket

looked at me with some earnestness and said, "Are you not

related to Senator Hoar?" To which I answered, "I am a connection

of his wife, by marriage."

I found I must get rid of the work at home, if I were to

get back my capacity for work at all. So I sailed for Southampton

before the session of Congress ended. It was the only time

I had absented myself from my duties in Congress, except for

an urgent public reason, for twenty-seven years and more.

I saw a good many interesting English people. It is not

worth while to give the details of dinners and lunches and

social life, unless something of peculiar and general interest

occur. Almost every American who can afford it goes abroad

now. Our English kinsmen are full of hospitality. They have

got over their old coldness with which they were apt to receive

their American cousins, although they were always the most

delightfully hospitable race on earth when you had once got

within the shield of their reserve.

I remember especially, however, a very pleasant Sunday spent

on the Thames, at the delightful home of William Grenfell,

Esq., which I mention because, by a fortunate accident, the

visit had some very interesting consequences. There I met

Sir John Lubbock, now Baron Avebury, famous for his writings

on financial questions and on Natural History, especially

for his observations of the habits of ants. He told me, if

I am not mistaken, that he had personally watched the conduct

and behavior of more than fifteen thousand individual ants.

There was a company of agreeable English ladies and gentlemen.

They played games in the evening after dinner, as you might

expect of a company of American boys and girls of sixteen

or eighteen years old.

Mr. Grenfell was a famous sportsman. His house was filled

with the trophies of his skill in hunting. I was told that

he had crossed the Channel in a row-boat.

Sir John Lubbock invited me to breakfast with him a few days

afterward in St. James Square. There I met a large number

of scientific men, among them the President of the Geographical

Society, and the Presidents or Heads of several other of the

important British Societies. I was presented to all these

gentlemen. But I found I could not easily understand the

names, when they were presented. Englishmen usually, even

when they speak the language exactly as we do, have a peculiar

pronunciation of names, which makes it very hard for an American

ear to catch them. I could not very well say, "What name

did you say?" or ask the host to repeat himself. So I was

obliged to spend the hour in ignorance of the special dignity

of most of the illustrious persons whom I met.

Just behind my chair hung a full-length portrait of Admiral

Boscawen, a famous naval officer connected with our early

history. For him was named the town of Boscawen in New Hampshire,

where Daniel Webster practised law. The house where we were

had been his. I think he was in some way akin to the host.

I sailed for home on Wednesday. The Friday night before,

I dined with Moreton Frewen, Esq., an accomplished English

gentleman, well known on this side of the Atlantic. Mr. Frewen

had been very kind and hospitable to me, as he had been to

many Americans. He deserves the gratitude of both nations

for what he has done to promote good feeling between the two

countries by his courtesy to Americans of all parties and

ways of thinking. He has helped make the leading men of both

countries know each other. From that knowledge has commonly

followed a hearty liking for each other.

I mention this dinner, as I did the visit to Mr. Grenfell,

because of its connection with a very interesting transaction.

The guests at the dinner were Sir Julian Pauncefote, afterward

Lord Pauncefote, the British Ambassador to the United States,

who was then at home on a brief visit; Sir Seymour Blaine,

an old military officer who had won, as I was told, great

distinction in the East, and two Spanish noblemen.

The soldier told several very interesting stories of his

military life, and of what happened to him in his early days.

Of these I remember two. He said that when he was a young

officer, scarcely more than a boy, he was invited by the Duke

of Wellington, with other officers, to a great ball at Apsley

House. Late in the evening, after the guests had left the

supper room, and it was pretty well deserted, he felt a desire

for another glass of wine. There was nobody in the supper

room. He was just pouring out a glass of champagne for himself,

when he heard a voice behind him. "Youngster, what are you

doing?" He turned round. It was the Duke. He said, "I am

getting a glass of wine." To this the Duke replied, "You ought

to be up-stairs dancing. There are but two things, Sir, for

a boy like you to be doing. One is fighting; the other dancing

with the girls. As for me I'm going to bed." Thereupon the

Duke passed round the table; touched a spring which opened

a secret door, in what was apparently a set of book-shelves,

and disappeared.

Sir Seymour Blaine told another story which, I dare say,

is well known. But I have never seen it in print. He said

that just before the Battle of Talavera when the Duke, then

Sir Arthur Wellesley, was in command in Spain, the English

and French armies had been marching for many days on parallel

lines, neither quite liking to attack the other, and neither

having got the advantage in position which they were seeking.

At last, one day, when everybody was pretty weary with the

fatigues of the march, the Duke summoned some of his leading

officers together and said to them: "You see that clump of

trees (pointing to one a good distance away, but in sight

from where they stood)--when the head of the French column

reaches that clump of trees, attack. As for me I'm going

to sleep under this bush." Thereupon the great soldier lay

down, all his arrangements being made, and everything being

in readiness, and took his nap while the great battle of Talavera--

on which the fate of Spain and perhaps the fate of Europe

depended--was begun. This adds another instance to the list

of the occasions to which Mr. Everett refers when he speaks

of Webster's sleeping soundly the night before his great reply

to Hayne.

"So the great Conde' slept on the eve of the battle of Rocroi;

so Alexander slept on the eve of the battle of Arbela; and

so they awoke to deeds of immortal fame!"

But this dinner of Mr. Frewen's had a very interesting consequence.

As I took leave of him at his door about eleven o'clock, he

asked me if there were anything more he could do for me. I

said, "No, unless you happen to know the Lord Bishop of London.

I have a great longing to see the Bradford Manuscript before

I go home. It is in the Bishop's Library. I went to Fulham

the other day, but found the Bishop was gone. I had supposed

the Library was a half-public one. I asked the servant who

came to the door for the librarian. He told me there was

no such officer, and that it was treated in all respects as

a private library. But I should be very glad if I could get

an opportunity to see it." Mr. Frewen answered, "I do not

myself know the Bishop. But Mr. Grenfell, at whose house

you spent Sunday, a little while ago, is his nephew by marriage.

He is in Scotland. But if I can reach him, I will procure for

you a letter to his uncle." That was Friday. Sunday morning

there came a note from Mr. Grenfell to the Bishop. I enclosed

it to his Lordship in one from myself, in which I said that

if it were agreeable to him, I would call at Fulham the next

Tuesday, at an hour which I fixed. I got a courteous reply

from the Bishop, in which he said that he would be glad to

show me the "log of the Mayflower," as he called it. I kept

the appointment, and found the Bishop with the book in his

hand. He received me very courteously, and showed me a little

of the palace. He said that there had been a Bishop's palace

on that spot for more than a thousand years.

I took the precious manuscript in my hands, and examined

it with an almost religious reverence. I had delivered the

address at Plymouth, the twenty-first of December, 1895, on

the occasion of the two hundred and seventy-fifth anniversary

of the landing of the Pilgrims upon the rock. In preparing

for that duty I read carefully, with renewed enthusiasm and

delight, the noble and touching story as told by Governor

Bradford. I declared then that this precious history ought

to be in no other custody than that of their children.

There have been several attempts to procure the return of

the manuscript to this country. Mr. Winthrop, in 1860, through

the venerable John Sinclair, Archdeacon, urged the Bishop

of London to give it up, and proposed that the Prince of Wales,

then just coming to this country, should take it across the

Atlantic and present it to the people of Massachusetts. The

Attorney-General, Sir Fitzroy Kelley, approved the plan, and

said it would be an exceptional act of grace, a most interesting

action, and that he heartily wished the success of the application.

But the Bishop refused. Again, in 1869, John Lothrop Motley,

the Minister to England, who had a great and deserved influence

there, repeated the proposition, at the suggestion of that

most accomplished scholar, Justin Winsor. But his appeal

had the same fate. The Bishop gave no encouragement, and said,

as had been said nine years before, that the property could

not be alienated without an Act of Parliament. Mr. Winsor

planned to repeat the attempt on his visit to England in 1887.

When he was at Fulham the Bishop was absent, and he was obliged

to go home without seeing him in person.

In 1881, at the time of the death of President Garfield,

Benjamin Scott, Chamberlain of London, proposed again in

the newspapers that the restitution should be made. But

nothing came of it.

When I went abroad I determined to visit the locality on

the borders of Lincolnshire and Yorkshire, from which Bradford

and Brewster and Robinson, the three leaders of the Pilgrims,

came, and where their first church was formed, and the places

in Amsterdam and Leyden where the emigrants spent thirteen

years. But I longed especially to see the manuscript of Bradford

at Fulham, which then seemed to me, as it now seems to me,

the most precious manuscript on earth, unless we could recover

one of the four gospels as it came in the beginning from the

pen of the Evangelist.

The desire to get it back grew and grew during the voyage

across the Atlantic. I did not know how such a proposition

would be received in England. A few days after I landed

I made a call on John Morley. I asked him whether he thought

the thing could be done. He inquired carefully into the story,

took down from his shelf the excellent though brief life of

Bradford in Leslie Stephen's "Biographical Dictionary," and

told me he thought the book ought to come back to us, and

that he should be glad to do anything in his power to help.

It was my fortune, a week or two after, to sit next to Mr.

Bayard at a dinner given to Mr. Collins, by the American consuls

in Great Britain. I took occasion to tell him the story,

and he gave me the assurance, which he afterward so abundantly

and successfully fulfilled, of his powerful aid. I was compelled,

by the health of one of the party with whom I was travelling,

to go to the Continent almost immediately, and was disappointed

in the hope of an early return to England.

After looking at the volume and reading the records on the

flyleaf, I said: "My Lord, I am going to say something which

you may think rather audacious. I think this book ought to

go back to Massachusetts. Nobody knows how it got over here.

Some people think it was carried off by Governor Hutchinson,

the Tory Governor; other people think it was carried off by

British soldiers when Boston was evacuated; but in either

case the property would not have changed. Or, if you treat

it as booty, in which last case, I suppose, by the law of

nations ordinary property does change, no civilized nation

in modern times applies that principle to the property of

libraries and institutions of learning."

The Bishop said: "I did not know you cared anything about

it."

"Why," said I, "if there were in existence in England a history

of King Alfred's reign for thirty years, written by his own

hand, it would not be more precious in the eyes of Englishmen

than this manuscript is to us."

"Well," said he, "I think myself that it ought to go back,

and if it depended on me it would have gone back before this.

But many of the Americans who have been here have been commercial

people, and did not seem to care much about it except as a

curiosity. I suppose I ought not to give it up on my own

authority. It belongs to me in my official capacity, and

not as private or personal property. I think I ought to consult

the Archbishop of Canterbury. And, indeed," he added, "I

think I ought to speak to the Queen about it. We should not

do such a thing behind Her Majesty's back."

I said: "Very well, when I go home I will have a proper

application made from some of our literary societies, and

ask you to give it consideration."

I saw Mr. Bayard again and told him the story. He was at

the train when I left London for the steamer at Southampton.

He entered with great interest into the matter, and told me

again he would do anything in his power to forward it.

When I got home I communicated with Secretary Olney about

it, who took a kindly interest in the matter, and wrote to

Mr. Bayard that the Administration desired he should do everything

in his power to promote the application. The matter was then

brought to the attention of the Council of the American Antiquarian

Society, the Massachusetts Historical Society, the Pilgrim

Society of Plymouth and the New England Society of New York.

These bodies appointed committees to unite in the application.

Governor Wolcott was also consulted, who gave his hearty approbation

to the movement, and a letter was despatched through Mr. Bayard.

Meantime, Bishop Temple, with whom I had my conversation,

had himself become Archbishop of Canterbury, and in that capacity

Primate of all England. His successor, Rev. Dr. Creighton,

had been the delegate of Emanuel, John Harvard's College,

to the great celebration at Harvard University in 1886, on

the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary of its foundation.

He had received the degree of Doctor of Laws from the University,

had been a guest of President Eliot, and had received President

Eliot as his guest in England.

The full story of the recovery of the manuscript, in which

the influence of Ambassador Bayard and the kindness of Bishop

Temple, afterward Archbishop of Canterbury, had so large a

part, is too long to tell here. Before the question was decided

Archbishop Temple consulted Her Majesty, Queen Victoria, who

took a deep interest in the matter, and gave the plan her

cordial approval. I think, as I had occasion to say to the

British Ambassador afterward, that the restoration of this

priceless manuscript did more to cement the bonds of friendship

between the people of the two countries than forty Canal Treaties.

In settling Imperial questions both nations are thinking,

properly and naturally, of great interests. But his restoration

was an act of purest kindness. The American people, in the

midst of all their material activities, their desire for wealth

and empire, are a sentimental people, easily and deeply stirred

by anything that touches their finer feelings, especially

anything that relates to their history.

The Bishop was authorized to return the manuscript by a decree

rendered in his own Court, by his Chancellor. The Chancellor

is regarded as the servant of the Bishop, and holds office,

I believe, at his will. But so does the King's Chancellor

at the King's will. I suppose the arrangement by which the

Chancellor determines suits in which his superior is affected

may be explained on the same ground as the authority of the

Lord Chancellor to determine suits in which the Crown is a

party.

I was quite curious to know on what ground, legal or equitable,

the decree for the restoration of the manuscript was made.

I wrote, after the thing was over, to the gentleman who had

acted as Mr. Bayard's counsel in the case, asking him to enlighten

me on this subject. I got a very courteous letter from him

in reply, in which he said he was then absent from home, but

would answer my inquiry on his return. After he got back,

however, I got a formal and ceremonious letter, in which he

said that, having been employed by Mr. Bayard as a public

officer, he did not think he was at liberty to answer questions

asked by private persons. As the petition and decree had

gone on the express ground that the application for the return

of the manuscript was made by Mr. Bayard, not in his official,

but only in his private capacity, as he had employed counsel

at my request, and I had been responsible for their fees,

I was, at first, inclined to be a little vexed at the answer.

On a little reflection, however, I saw that it was not best

to be too curious on the subject; that where there was a will

there was a way, and probably there was no thought, in getting

the decree, on the part of anybody concerned, to be too strict

as to legalities. I was reminded, however, of Silas Wegg's

answer to Mr. Boffin, when he read aloud to him and his wife

evening after evening "The Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire,"

which Silas had spoken of at first, as "The Decline and Fall

of the Russian Empire." Mr. Boffin noticed the inconsistency,

and asked Mr. Wegg why it was that he had called it "The Decline

and Fall of the Russian Empire" in the beginning. To which

Mr. Wegg replied that Mrs. Boffin was present, and that it

would not be proper to answer that question in the presence

of a lady.

The manuscript was brought to Massachusetts by Mr. Bayard,

on his return to the United States at the end of his official

term. It was received by the Legislature in the presence

of a large concourse of citizens, to whom I told the story

of the recovery. Mr. Bayard delivered the book to the Governor

and the Legislature with an admirable speech, and Governor

Wolcott expressed the thanks of the State in an eloquent reply.

He said that "the story of the departure of this precious

work from our shores may never in every detail be revealed;

but the story of its return will be read of all men, and will

become a part of the history of the Commonwealth. There are

places and objects so intimately associated with the world's

greatest men or with mighty deeds that the soul of him who

gazes upon them is lost in a sense of reverent awe, as it

listens to the voice that speaks from the past, in words like

those which came from the burning bush, 'Put off thy shoes

from off they feet, for the place whereon thou standest is

holy ground.'

"The story here told is one of triumphant achievement, and

not of defeat. As the official representative of the Commonwealth,

I receive it, sir, at your hands. I pledge the faith of the

Commonwealth that for all time it shall be guarded in accordance

with the terms of the decree under which it is delivered into

her possession as one of her chiefest treasures. I express

the thanks of the Commonwealth for the priceless gift, and

I venture the prophecy that for countless years to come and

to untold thousands these mute pages shall eloquently speak

of high resolve, great suffering and heroic endurance made

possible by an absolute faith in the over-ruling providence

of Almighty God."

The Bishop gave the Governor of Massachusetts the right to

deposit the manuscript either in his office at the State

House or with the Massachusetts Historical Society, of which

Archbishop Temple and Bishop Creighton, who succeeded Bishop

Temple in the See of London, were both Honorary members. The

Governor, under my advice, deposited the manuscript in the

State House. It seemed to him and to me that the Commonwealth,

which is made up of the Colony which Bradford founded, and

of which he was Governor, blended with that founded by the

Puritans under Winthrop, was the fitting custodian of the

life in Leyden of the founders of Plymouth, of the voyage

across the sea, and of the first thirty years of the Colony

here. It is kept in the State Library, open at the spot which

contains the Compact made on board the Mayflower--the first

written Constitution in history. Many visitors gaze upon

it every year. Few of them look upon it without a trembling

of the lip and a gathering of mist in the eye. I am told

that it is not uncommon that strong men weep when they behold

it.

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