WHYS AND WHEREFORES.

Curd is first cut with the horizontal knife, to facilitate easy

expulsion of the whey.

Cheese is a good edible, because, besides being highly nutritive,

the rennet or gastric juice it contains aids digestion and the

assimilation of other foods.

Whey should never be fed to cows, because, having once been secreted

in their mammillary glands in the form of milk, it has now taken on

the nature of an excrement; consequently, a re-secretion would be

highly prejudicial to the quality and healthfulness of the product.

It was formerly supposed that febrine was exclusively a constituent

of animal blood; but now the theory that slight traces of it in milk

induce rennet coagulation is generally accepted as authentic.

If a cheese is misshapen, by uneven pressing or otherwise, when taken

from the hoop, put it back and press it over again. Remember that

appearance goes a long way with dealers. Do not tolerate any cheese

in the room that are deformed.

Cheese makers should insist that patrons with large messes of milk

set their night’s yield in two cans, thoroughly air the fluid, by

stirring or dipping immediately subsequent to milking, and then dump

both portions together in the morning, so as not to mix night’s and

morning’s milk until it is mixed in common in the cheese vat. If

this rule is insisted upon and faithfully observed, a great deal of

damaged milk will be avoided.

A quack doctor should as soon be granted a diploma to practice, as an

ignorant apprentice at cheese making be given the responsibility of

the manufacture of a vat of milk. The health of the community is in

great danger from both frauds.

Cheese that are surface mottled, spread the bandage and show a soft,

weak rind, have been insufficiently cooked. The remedy lies in a more

upward tendency of the mercury.

The art of cheese making cannot be learned wholly from paper, because

variations of milk quality constantly clash with regular modes of

procedure. Here the practical experience and sound judgment of the

maker must intervene and offset the lacteal variation, by appropriate

changes in the manner of working the product.

Making good cheese out of poor milk is much talked of by makers

and considered quite an accomplishment. It consists in clothing

the product in a glamour of deception, propagating dyspepsia and

shielding careless dairymen.

Skimmed cheese is dry and tasteless and unfit for human food, because

the meat has been extracted, and the shell left. It should take a

back seat on the bench of humiliation beside oleomargarine.

When whey sparkles it is sour.

When raw curd settles quickly after being cut up, it is a signal

that it is aging rapidly and developing acid. White scum on the whey

indicates the presence of acid.

Butter exuding slightly from the hoops of pressing cheese tells

of acid and bespeaks a fine quality of goods. Butter exuding in

excessive quantity from the hoops is proof that the milk has either

been violently shaken up over rough roads or has been set at a very

high temperature.

You cannot get a good rind on a poor quality of cheese; you can

always have a perfect rind on one of good quality. Thus, in one

sense, the rind indicates the quality.

“Cleanliness is next to godliness” about a factory, because, milk

being an animal fluid it is of nitrogenous composition, and the waste

that accrues from it on decomposition becomes the most fetid carrion.

Buttermilk added to sweet milk in making cheese is a diabolical

habit, the object, nowadays, being not to produce cheese from slop

but from pure, wholesome milk alone.

Airing curds thoroughly after salting is necessary to expel gaseous

odors. The improved quality of the cheese will repay every maker for

doing it.

Never cease to agitate the question of only six days’ labor in the

week for the cheese maker. Agitate it, because God has laid it down

as a commandment for all mankind, and nature inexorably exacts from

the physical forces every violation of the rule.

Keep the curing room at an even temperature of from 65° to 70°

Fahrenheit, because a less amount of heat might sour the green cheese

on the shelves and more warmth might cause them to lose butter to the

point of off flavor.

Keep the surface of cheese impervious to fly attacks and you will

never be troubled with skippers.

Never use sour press clothes on cheese, not only from sense of

neatness, but because the rank acid will check the rind.

If you are caught with a soft curd on your hands, one that has

soured so quickly that you have had no opportunity to give it a firm

cook, grind it twice and stir it more than usual. This will reduce

pulpy lumps, add stability to the curd and prevent the cheese from

spreading out of shape in the bandage.

Rennet is the life and soul of cheese, as much depending on its

efficacy as on yeast in bread. Excessive heat stifles and kills out

its virtue and leaves the cheese structure dead and indigestible.

Makers should bear this fact in mind and never allow the cooking curd

to rest long on the bottom of the vat.

The rennet jar should never be covered, as nothing can be mentioned

that is more liable to contract fetid taint than these skins.

Exclusion of air from the vessel in which they are soaking is

extremely liable to spoil them in spite of the salt the liquor

contains.

In weighing patrons’ milk at the factory, the scales should be

balanced down and up weight taken. To the uninitiated this might at

first seem an injustice, but a little experience will soon show that

it is imperatively necessary. The dealers to whom the cheese are

consigned exact stiff up weight, and if the same is not taken at the

milk delivery window, woe be to the ratio. As all patrons are served

alike in the premises, no loss or injustice accrues to any one and

the maker is in a position to deal as he is being dealt with.

Pulverize salt thoroughly before sprinkling it over the curd. Hard

lumps will not dissolve and will produce cauterized spots through the

cheese.

During the hot weather of summer remember that curd will stand a

third more souring, and yet come down into mellow cheese, than it

would earlier or later in the season. Bearing this fact in mind gives

a maker mental relief when he has a curd that has the start of him on

acid and yet afterward comes out all right, perhaps making the best

cheese in the room.

Saving curd over to mix in with the next day’s cheese is not

desirable, but it is often unavoidable, as cheese of as even weight

as possible are always wanted. Take the curd to be saved over and put

it in a bag of bandage cloth. Mix into it an extra handful of salt,

in order to prevent too much souring, and hang the sack in a cool,

dry place. The next day, just prior to drawing the whey, empty the

old curd into the vat and stir it up with the new.

There are sometimes extreme cases of butter separation from the

cooked caseine. I have seen where butter would settle in the seams

and cavities of cheese, to the almost utter ruination of the product

and the distraction of the maker because he could not discern and

stop the cause. There are many causes, some of which are beyond the

power of the maker to remedy, such as churning the milk in drawing

it to the factory over stony roads, etc. But he can prevent too high

heat at setting time, and he can manipulate milk with gentleness

before the rennet is added.

In consigning cheese to market always put the consignor’s name on the

side instead of one cover of the box. Covers are apt to come off in

transit and get mixed with those of other consignments, entailing

much trouble to those concerned.

When coagulated milk has reached the right consistency to cut up,

draw the curd knife through it at a moderate speed, truly and

unwaveringly. The cutting behind an experienced hand will expel whey

clear and green in color. In this item of procedure let your hand be

counted among the experienced.

Hand-book on cheese making · 第 29 / 57 题