LETTER XX.

Venice.

There is unquestionably much reflection, and great depth of thought,

displayed in the formation of the political constitution of Venice;

but I should admire it much more, if the Council of Ten, and State

Inquisitors, had never formed any part of it. Their institution, in my

opinion, destroys the effect of all the rest. Like those misers who

actually starve themselves, by endeavouring to avoid the inconveniencies

of poverty, the Venetians, in whatever manner it is brought about,

actually support a despotic tribunal, under the pretext of keeping out

despotism. In some respects this system is worse than the fixed and

permanent tyranny of one person; for that person’s character and maxims

would be known, and, by endeavouring to conform themselves to his way

of thinking, people might have some chance of living unmolested; but

according to this plan, they have a free-thinker for their tyrant to-day,

and a bigot to-morrow. One year a set of Inquisitors, who consider

certain parts of conduct as innocent, which, in the sight of their

successors, may appear State crimes; men do not know what they have to

depend upon. An universal jealousy must prevail, and precautions will

be used to avoid the suspicions of Government, unknown in any other

country. Accordingly we find, that the noble Venetians are afraid of

having any intercourse with foreign ambassadors, or with foreigners of

any kind; they are even cautious of visiting at each other’s houses,

and hardly ever have meetings together, except at the courts, or on the

Broglio. The boasted secrecy of their public councils proceeds, in all

probability, from the same principle of fear. If all conversation on

public affairs were forbid, under pain of death, and if the members of

the British Parliament were liable to be seized in the night-time by

general warrants, and hanged at Tyburn, or drowned in the Thames, at the

pleasure of the Secretaries of State, I dare swear the world would know

as little of what passes in either House of Parliament, as they do of

what is transacted in the Senate of Venice.

It is not safe for a noble Venetian to acquire, in a high degree, the

love and confidence of the common people. This excites the jealousy of

the Inquisitors, and proves a pretty certain means of excluding him from

any of the high offices. A Government which displays so much distrust

and suspicion where there is little or no ground, will not fail to shew

marks of the same disposition where, in the general opinion, there is

some reason to be circumspect. Ecclesiastics, of every denomination, are

excluded, by the constitution of Venice, from a place in the Senate, or

holding any civil office whatever; nor is it permitted them, directly or

indirectly, to intermeddle in State affairs. In many instances, they are

deprived of that kind of influence which, even in Protestant countries,

is allowed to the clergy. The Patriarch of Venice has not the disposal of

the offices belonging to St. Mark’s church: all the Deans are named by

the Doge and Senate.

Though it is forbid to the nobility, and to the clergy, to hold any

conversation with strangers upon politics, or affairs of State; yet it

is remarked, the gondoleers are exceeding ready to talk upon these, or

any other subjects, with all who give them the smallest encouragement.

Those who are not in the immediate service of any particular nobleman,

are often retained by Government, like the Valets de place at Paris, as

spies upon strangers. It is said, that while those fellows row their

gondolas, in seeming inattention to the conversation, they are taking

notice of every thing which is said, that they may report it to their

employers, when they imagine it any way concerns the Government. If

this is true, those are to be pitied who are obliged to listen to all

the stuff that such politicians may be supposed to relate. As soon as a

stranger arrives, the gondoleers who brought him to Venice immediately

repair to a certain office, and give information where they took him up,

to what house they conducted him, and of any other particulars they may

have picked up. All those precautions recalled to my memory the garrison

of Darmstadt, of which I gave you an account in a letter from that place,

where the strictest duty is kept up by day and night, in winter as well

as summer, and every precaution used, as if an enemy were at the gates;

though no mortal has the smallest design against the place, and though

it is perfectly understood by all the inhabitants, that if an army was

in reality to come with hostile intentions, the town could not hold

out a week. In the same manner, I cannot help thinking, that all this

jealousy and distrust, those numerous engines set a going, and all this

complicated system for the discovery of plots, and the defence of the

constitution of this republic, serves only to harass their own subjects.

Their constitution is certainly in no such danger as to require such an

apparatus of machines to defend it, unless, indeed, the Emperor were to

form a plot against it; and, in that case, it is much to be feared, that

the spies, gondoleers, lions mouths, and State Inquisitors, would hardly

prevent its success.

Exclusive of this State Inquisition, my abhorrence to which, I perceive,

leads me sometimes away from my purpose, all ranks of people here might

be exceeding happy. The business of the various courts, and the great

number of offices in the State, form a constant employment for the

nobles, and furnish them with proper objects to excite industry and

ambition. The citizens form a respectable body in the State; and, though

they are excluded from the Senate, they may hold some very lucrative

and important offices. By applying to the arts and sciences, which are

encouraged at Venice, they have a fair chance of living agreeably,

and laying up a competency for their families. Private property is no

where better secured than at Venice; and notwithstanding she no longer

enjoys the trade of Asia without competitors, yet her commerce is still

considerable, and many individuals acquire great wealth by trade. The

manufactories established here employ all the industrious poor, and

prevent that squalid beggary, that pilfering and robbery, one or other,

or all of which, prevail in most other countries of Europe.

Their subjects on the Terra Firma, I am informed, are not at all

oppressed; the Senate has found that mild treatment, and good usage,

are the best policy, and more effectual than armies, in preventing

revolts. The Podestas, therefore, are not allowed to abuse their power,

by treating the people with severity or injustice. Those Governors know,

that any complaints produced against them, will be scrutinized by the

Senate very carefully. This prevents many abuses of power on their part,

and makes the neighbouring provinces which formerly belonged to this

State, regret the chance of war which ravished them from the equitable

government of their ancient masters.

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