From Bon Pas (the future Emporium of the commerce of New Albion!) we
soon crossed the Wabash at a ferry of difficult approach; for the {126}
river banks are steep and high, and the descent is therefore rather
dangerous for a carriage; we got over safe however, and then keeping the
river close on the right, arrived in the evening at the German
settlement, and put up at the excellent good tavern, neatness itself,
but furnished in the very plainest manner, and beyond a three cornered
arm chair, there was not a piece of furniture which could excite the
repose of indolence or the indulgence of luxury. After a plain repast,
accompanied however with some good beer and a bottle of white wine, both
the produce of the colony, (for the last we paid one dollar,) we sallied
out to take a view of a place which could afford such good cheer. Before
we proceed to examine it, however, I am disposed to talk a little of the
great cementing principle of the society--_a communion of goods_.--While
the rest of mankind are given up to a selfish principle; while each one
is amassing the possessions of this transitory scene, grasping them
truly as if he were never to part with them, these people, under the
guidance of their spiritual pastor M. Rapp, are shewing to the world the
practicability of what they esteem the real christian principle; they
are living in the utmost harmony with a strict communion of property.
All the products of the earth, which all contribute their share of
labour {127} to produce, are deposited in the common stock, whence each
one receives whatever may be required for his comforts. Indeed, what my
host at the tavern told me seems perfectly true; "We have every thing we
can want" says he, "for our comfort and _something more_."
Nothing short of a pure religious principle (certainly not worldly
interest,) could keep such a community in harmony; that here is an
example of its doing so is at first view highly gratifying; it gives
promise that the time may arrive when mankind may generally adopt it.
Should it stand the test, it must bring conviction to all, what some
think _now_ must be the universal belief; at least _christians_ must be
convinced that the institution of property, with all its attendant "hard
words, jealousies and fears" is incompatible with a religion which
proclaims "peace on earth, good-will towards men," and prescribes mutual
love and benevolence as essential to happiness here and hereafter.
This colony, (though they admit into their communion any one, who
professing their principles and submitting to their rules wishes to be
admitted among them,) is composed chiefly of poor Germans; who have fled
from a despotic government, to enjoy quietly in this remote scene their
religion, and the fruits of their industry:--{128} In their leader they
place implicit confidence, and obey him with promptitude; he directs the
labours of the day as well as their religious duties; and in neither is
there any perceptible distinction made between the members of his own
family and his flock. The same plain dress is worn by all, and all
equally go to the labours of the field. To shew the extent of their
reliance on, and obedience to him, the following fact is sufficient:
soon after the commencement of their settlement M. Rapp, foreseeing the
serious difficulties which would arise from too quick an increase of
their numbers, told them it was necessary that for the present they
should not have any more children. He was obeyed for the necessary
period; but the interdiction has been since removed and plenty of
children were to be seen in proof of it. Mr. Birkbeck has misrepresented
this temporary order as a fundamental law of the society, and takes
occasion to condemn them for it; when in fact it was a very wise
forecast, preventing the distress which would have certainly ensued from
the want of sufficient provisions.
Let us now take a view of this interesting colony. The site is obviously
well chosen on a good soil, rather elevated, and at a sufficient
distance from the low grounds near the river for {129} the advantage of
a healthy air: the streets are of spacious width crossing each other at
right angles, and lined with Lombardy poplars: the houses, which at
leisure are to be replaced by others of more durable materials, are at
present log cottages of a pleasing picturesque plan, and very neatly
thatched; to each is attached a garden, a yard, a shed, and out-house
for the cow and other purposes, the whole having an air of great
comfort. Near the inn in a square open space stands the church, which,
though formed of wood and boarded, is a handsome large building. On one
side this square is the house of the pastor, the materials of good
brick. It is large, and finished in the best style of workmanship. Of
the same material they have also built a spacious store which contains
articles of grocery, hardware, and indeed every thing that the
inhabitants of the surrounding country require, and with these it
seemed to carry on great business: this store is guarded with close
iron-barred windows, and its general appearance corresponding, I
inquired what occasion _they_ had for a prison? This caution is no
compliment to the honesty of the settlers around. A large steam mill is
at work constantly, where they grind corn, card wool, saw boards, &c.:
they have also thrashing machines of great power and indeed {130} a vast
variety of other machinery; they dye cloth pretty well: there are
buildings ample for school instruction, and in short, (for, to enumerate
every thing would require a long residence among them,) they seem to
possess every comfort. The vines were loaded with beautiful ripe grapes
both black and white; and they were fast covering the hills of sandy
soil in the neighbourhood with new vineyards. It was the Indian-corn
harvest, and the young women and children, standing in a large circle,
were employed in stripping off the leaves and throwing the cobs into
baskets, which the men carried into the barns on willing shoulders. We
contemplated this scene with much pleasure and then proceeded to take a
view of the country around the settlement; which we found cleared to
great extent, and sown with wheat looking luxuriantly and promising
abundance.
[Illustration: The Church at Harmonie]
The whole here described, and probably much more might escape
observation, has been effected in the short period of five years and a
half!--They may fairly take for their motto _vis unita fortior_, for
they have accomplished wonders by it; far more than money could have
effected with mercenary workmen, and far better too, for here is no
interest to deceive the employer; they work for themselves. But, though
inclined, {131} I must not dilate upon this fascinating principle which
seems to strike at the root of most if not all of the moral evils of
society; heartily hoping that its practicability may stand the test, and
prove its sterling character, I shall therefore take leave of the
subject with a few more observations, which will end what I have to say
respecting this quiet industrious people. They keep no accompts of the
several branches of their industry;--an annual taking of stock is all
they think necessary; which is done in order to know the extent of their
resources, and that they may be able to calculate their sufficiency to
the wants for the year.
There was, I must confess after all, a dull sameness pervading the
place, which I am willing to attribute rather to the phlegmatic German
character than to their institutions. There is too, a depression of
spirit which hangs about every man, far removed from the country which
gave him birth, from those early scenes of childhood upon which his eye
first rested with delight, and from those friends "he ne'er shall see
again." Expatriated communities, like plants removed from the seed bed,
for awhile sicken; but if planted in a genial soil they in time take
firm root, again spread abroad their leaves, and flourish.
{132} Music they have, for we heard a grand pianoforte well played; they
may have other instruments and also other amusements though I saw none;
and their language, which I did not understand, precluded conversation,
for no one, except my host of the tavern, not even M. Rapp, spoke
English or French. The women, to use the phrase of a polite man, are the
_least handsome_ I ever beheld: the Colony therefore may possibly not be
much disturbed by female intrigues, and thus be free from one other
great cause of embroilment among mankind. To conclude my observations,
they seem according to their own ideas a happy people; and did they
possess a little more liveliness, more polish, and talk English one
might have lived among them, which is more than I felt inclined to do in
any other society we met with.
_October_ 3d. We were now considerably above four thousand miles from
home. It was the original intention that we should winter at Vincennes,
on which account various necessaries had been sent from Philadelphia as
well as brought with us; but I had already nearly _seen enough_, and
having been informed, also judging from what I had seen,
(Of hair-breadth 'scapes i' the imminent _river banks_
--------_Morasses_ vast and desarts idle,
Rough quarries, rocks, and hills whose heads touch heaven;)
{133} that the roads of Indiana were seldom passable for wheels in the
spring of the year, and not until the beginning of summer, I began to
think that a winter and following spring passed in the western country,
might leave the choice of a winter passage home or the further delay of
another year; which would be too long a detainer from old England: and
we therefore entertained thoughts of getting back before winter to one
of the eastern ports, whence, if necessary, we might embark at any time
during the winter, or otherwise to stay till spring. Not to lose time
and fair weather therefore, in getting back to Vincennes to make
arrangements for the return, we quitted the interesting Colony of
Harmony early in the morning; having to drive thirty miles to
Princetown[44] the nearest station. Throughout the whole of my journey,
though sometimes at a loss, I was fortunate enough not once to lose the
way; a circumstance partly owing to being very particular in noting
directions whenever they could be obtained--a plan that cannot be too
strongly recommended to travellers through difficult countries. Let them
not be content with directions from one individual, but ask every one
they may meet; I have often had cause to repent confidently passing a
person, and within half a mile after have found myself in uncertainty:
this {134} was the case on leaving Harmony after obtaining what we
thought full directions; but people who know a country are hardly ever
sufficiently circumstantial to a stranger.
In a few miles we passed in the midst of the forest a solitary
meeting-house, and soon after met several respectable looking people on
horseback in their Sunday clothes coming to it. We were this day
probably beholden to our fire-arms for safety; and though many
travellers do not carry them, I strongly recommend all those who have
any property not to omit it. A ruffian-looking fellow had introduced
himself to me at Harmony, under pretence of shewing a note which he had
received, he said, above thirty miles westward, and which proving to be
a forgery he must go back to exchange. He wanted much to be informed of
my route, but this of course I avoided telling, and thought no more of
him; but to-day, instead of going back as he had said, we suddenly saw
him riding after us upon a wretched horse, and he soon passed with such
a dogged look that I had no doubt on my mind of his intentions, which
were the more confirmed by his stopping afterwards frequently and
looking about and at us. So we got under arms; I placing the rifle
between my legs as I drove, and the pistols at my side: he evidently
wavered {135} in his resolution, apprehensive that more people might be
near on their way to the meeting, and perhaps not liking our number. We
soon came up with him, however, at a log-hut, where he was fortifying
with whiskey; and as we marched past we took care he should see we were
prepared: he looked hard, but before we were out of sight struck off in
another direction and we saw him no more.
Slept at Princetown; where there was found nothing more important to
note than a tolerable good inn, and some blackberry wine of my host's
own manufacture, for a bottle of which he had the conscience to charge a
dollar, and "by the light of the moon" next evening we got safe back to
Vincennes, and found those of our party left there during this
expedition all well. From this pleasant town we made short excursions in
the neighbourhood, and a week passed in irresolution whether to winter
or to attempt the return at this season; for various were the
representations and advice upon the subject: among the inducements to
stay there is plenty of shooting of all kinds, the place is healthy, and
we had the offer of a furnished house.--If the reader has been called
upon to act under circumstances where the _pros_ and _cons_ have been so
equally balanced, that it seemed not possible to refer the affair to the
{136} decision of the judgment,--perhaps _he_ has tossed up. _I_ did
not, but I resolved to go: and having once determined, the necessary
arrangements were soon made; the baggage waggon and its contents to a
considerable value were intrusted to the _honour_ and _honesty_ of a
Vincennes merchant,[45] and with my dearborn, and luckily all the four
horses, on the 11th October, I commenced my retreat. I intended to take
the same route homeward as far as Zanesville, (Ohio,) and from thence by
a northerly course to Lake Erie, proceed to the Falls of Niagara, then
to Albany and down the north river to New York; but the lateness of the
season afterwards induced me reluctantly to alter the plan, and to
return through Maryland.
In retracing our steps we shall not have occasion for much observation,
until we take new ground on entering the State of Maryland.
From Vincennes the first week brought us to Louisville; a distance of
near one hundred and {137} fifty miles. I had been instructed, by the
persons who cashed my bill at Vincennes, to consult with a broker of
this town who was requested to exchange those notes which were not at
par for others that were so, taking a per centage for the
transaction--he did so; and the reader is informed, in order that he may
have some idea of the state of the banks and of public credit, that
twenty-five per cent or one quarter was the difference of value of notes
between Louisville and Vincennes.[46]
The end of the second week brought us again to Maysville, or Limestone
on the Ohio, which divides Kentucky from Ohio State. The country does
not lose on the review; even in Indiana it seems to be cultivated to
greater extent than at first sight it appeared to be; the weather is
delightful, and the various tints with which the foliage glows is far
beyond the reach of pen or pencil. This season is called here the
_Indian_ {138} _summer_, and indeed the agreeable temperature of the
air, the beauty of the day, and the variety of forest scenery I could
much wish to describe though vain would be the attempt. Let the reader
imagine the finest autumnal day in England, and suppose an unvaried
succession of such days, as far from oppressive heat as from cold; let
him then cull from our woods every tint of autumn's foliage, heighten
every colour in imagination, and add more; then perhaps he may have a
faint idea of the Indian summer season.
At Lewis's tavern in Indiana we witnessed a fine appearance of the
aurora borealis; beautiful columns of light in constant motion and of
great breadth continually darted upward, extending and shortening by
turns while others crossed these; the whole moved gradually towards the
west. At this place we were overtaken by a lady and gentleman, their
child and nurse, returning from Lexington from an excursion to the new
settlement of Indostan on the White river;--they travelled in their own
carriage, (a chariot) it may therefore be well supposed that the roads
were tolerably good. Their arrival caused a good deal of consultation
and contrivance for the night's accommodations; there was but one room
for both {139} parties, which, by hanging up sheets and other
substitutes for curtains, was at length divided into four;--beds were
then spread, and all slept quietly without furnishing any scene in which
either Scarron or Fielding would have delighted: 'tis true we set fire
to the log chimney, for the night was cold, and we had piled the faggots
a little too high, but this was luckily seen before retiring to rest, or
it might have been attended with serious consequences to us. My host, a
shrewd spirited little fellow, strutting about in the short cloak a
l'Espagnol worn here, and with his black worsted remains of stockings
full of holes, which did not in the least damp his self-conceit, told me
next morning, on my remarking the scarcity of houses of entertainment
for travellers, that indeed another _good_ house besides his own was
much wanted on the road.
Great is the facility of acquiring money here if a man has judgment; he
first looks out for some spot where a tavern is wanted, he immediately
cuts down the trees around and puts together a rude log hut, which he
covers with shingles (wood tiles;) a board is then inscribed "tavern,"
or "house of entertainment." Inside you find it very sparingly
furnished, but he has got some fowls and spirits, and if he minds, his
fortune is made. Travellers are plentiful, and his charges {140} as high
as if he could treat them with every comfort, instead of putting two
people _commonly_, and sometimes three, into a bed; in a room, too,
containing four, five and six beds! The horses are put into another
inclosure of logs, the interstices of which near a foot wide, (in summer
an advantage,) are not at all closed even during the severity of winter.
At Paoli town, Indiana, we arrived on the day of militia muster, and
found there a considerable concourse of people, for it appeared to be a
holiday. It would have been idle to look for the regular uniform,
correctness of evolutions and discipline, where probably neither the
power nor the wish to attain these existed; a few only wore a uniform of
neat grey colour with sash and long feather; the rest in the usual
dress, and each man armed with his rifle. The amusement or chief
exercise of the day, beyond the roll call, seemed to be firing at marks,
at which they have justly established a character for great dexterity.
Yet the American has but little skill with his arms in hitting a moving
object, whether running or flying; indeed he scarcely ever attempts it,
and he must too have his accustomed weapon or it is a chance if he
succeeds;--a man dexterous with his rifle was admiring the pistols I
carried, and wished to {141} try them; he shot twice at fifteen paces
without even hitting the tree on which the mark was placed: that the
pistols may not be supposed faulty, I mention, though _no practiser_
with the weapon, that I hit close to the mark each shot, and with both,
for he would change thinking mine might be the best. The same person
with his own rifle without a rest, (which aid by the way is frequently
taken advantage of,) at sixty yards shot from a tree a piece of paper no
larger than we could see. Towards evening the multitude dispersed, and
again the silence of the desert prevailed.
At Louisville we first saw the effects of a violent epidemic disease
which had attacked the horses, and many were dying of it. The disorder
appeared first upon the tongue, without any previous symptoms of fever
that I perceived; blebs or blisters rose, broke, and increasing in
number the whole tongue shortly became completely skinned and much
swelled; the malady extended itself gradually down the throat, and the
animal died, more it would appear from inability to take in food than
immediately owing to the disorder.--Almost every horse we met on the
road had caught the infection; at Louisville and Frankfort, at the last
in particular, I saw near forty altogether in one yard: various were the
{142} modes of treatment; some bled them and gave physic upon the first
appearance; diet, soft mashes with nitre honey and the insides of
gourds: the animals seemed to suffer greatly from hunger. The local
applications were a mixture of copperas, alum, and blue vitriol
pulverized and rubbed upon the tongue twice or more each day, in order
to destroy the activity of the disease, and a frequent washing between
these applications, with honey and alum water. This was the mode of
treatment I adopted,[47] for three of my horses caught it, and they all
recovered, though one was reduced so low that I was obliged to exchange
him at Maysville. With the others we continued the journey without the
delay of one day, and they were in better condition on re-entering
Philadelphia than when they left it.
At Lexington (Kentucky) we stopped at the Indian Queen which is a good
house. Another change of notes became here necessary; those of the Bank
of the United States were not to be procured, and no others being
received with any certainty on the road, I sold the notes changed at
Louisville for dollars at a further discount of two and a half per cent,
and even {143} for this bargain I was again beholden to the good offices
of the same gentleman who had kindly cashed my draft when going
westward. My dollars were put into a bag, and as I returned swinging
them along to the tavern, the weight caused some reflections on the
different effects on mankind of specie and paper as circulating
mediums;--the first, by its weight obviously tends to make one think
more of expenditure even in small sums; the latter, by the facility it
affords of carrying in the pocket-book sums of any magnitude must have a
directly reverse effect;--perhaps one of the greatest evils attendant
upon the paper money system may be attributed to this cause, and the
very inconvenience which I now experience of carrying an inconsiderable
sum in specie might therefore, if general, be an important means of
raising the value of money, and of establishing economy in public and
private affairs.
25th. Quitted Mr. Chamber's hospitable house at Maysville; and crossing
the river ascended the steep hill which immediately presents itself in
the State of Ohio.--On reaching the top we received the first intimation
of a change of weather--snow had fallen and did not disappear the whole
day from the shade; gales of wind now blew, and rain had lately fallen
in different {144} parts in sufficient quantity to render the roads
wretchedly bad: our progress was now slow and frequently difficult;--we
passed several laden waggons of emigrating parties either set fast in
the clay and digging out, or broken down and waiting for the aid of some
distant blacksmith. This was a sad change of scene, however we kept up a
good spirit, and having a light though strong carriage, good cattle, and
helping these with our own exertions up some of the steepest hills, we
surmounted all difficulties, and arrived without accident the end of the
fourth week at Washington, Pensilvania, distant from Vincennes about
five hundred miles.
Travellers, whether through unformed tracks of distant countries or over
the mighty mass of waters, must possess minds little susceptible of
impression, if they do not, in such situations, feel themselves more
peculiarly under the protecting hand of providence. To pass safely a
length of way, where a false step might frequently bring destruction, is
alone a subject of thankfulness; but to have seen themselves within a
moment, a hair's breadth of destruction, and to be preserved, must bring
the sentiment to their minds with tenfold force: one day while
traversing Ohio State, a gust of wind blew off the top of a large dead
tree, which fell with a {145} tremendous crash on the spot over which
in another moment of time we should have been passing!
At West Union, a small town with a good court-house, we had intended to
sleep; but on arriving found the whole place full of people and to
obtain beds impossible; at which the owners of the tavern very civilly
expressed their regret, and though in the midst of hurry and bustle
thought to speak for beds to the owner of a good private house, three or
four miles further who happened to be in the inn. While the horses were
feeding however, we went into a room, the table of which was covered
with a profusion of fowls, ham, veal, beef, and many other symptoms of
plenty; to partake of which the hostess very hospitably pressed us, and,
that we might not be backward in accepting her proffered good cheer,
assured us that it would be no loss to them, as every thing on the table
would be swept away not to appear again; for especially upon these
occasions nothing was ever brought on a second time.--"Have you no poor
people to accept of the remains?" said I. She knew but of one family,
she replied, to whom it could possibly be acceptable, and she did not
think even these would receive it. An additional instance this, proving
that food is abundant in {146} this country. Paid here for a new
horse-shoe about eighteenpence sterling.
In passing through Ohio, the Derbyshire of the United States, we found
in the sitting-rooms coal fires used almost generally in preference to
wood; but from an extraordinary prejudice, which even exists at
Philadelphia and other places, wood is still used for the purpose of
cookery, and they will not believe that a dinner can be dressed properly
at a coal fire.
[Illustration: Bridge at Zanesville, Ohio]
We again slept at Wheeling, and again were much pleased with the
situation. Old Major Sprigs[48] did us the honour to entertain us at his
very good house, though it was very perceptible that he, in common with
so many more, is not in charity with English blood: as a proof of the
feeling, he was complaining of the rats about his premises, none of
which vermin, he said, "were to be found in the country before the
English brought them!"
This is the beginning of the season for Venison. A man came to the door
with a horse-load which the Major bought for threepence sterling per
lb., the price asked. Let not the reader long for American venison and
fancy it to resemble a fine haunch fed in an English park; it is lean
and more like horse-flesh, with very few exceptions.
Many families and other parties were still waiting {147} here, and at
other places where we had crossed the Ohio, until the rising of its
waters should enable them to pass down to the west: this did not happen,
I was told, in the past year until the month of December; and to all
appearance it may be as late this season; during the interval these poor
people are exhausting their resources, losing their time, and at last
will pass down the river at a most unpleasant and dangerous season of
the year, if the ice should permit, a circumstance not probable: those
travellers therefore, who intend such mode of conveyance, (a very
pleasant one in summer,) should not start later than May; as the waters
rapidly subside after June, when it frequently happens that none but
light and nearly flat-bottomed boats can get down.[49]--{148} The rivers
of North America it must be acknowledged are grand, but this annual
loss of water will perhaps ever be a drawback to their utility which no
art can remedy. I am more than half inclined, however, to withdraw this
opinion, for American enterprise is alive to the object; and two works
which I saw in progress, and which by this time may be finished, give
promise that much may be accomplished;--one of these is at Louisville,
where a canal cut at great expense will enable vessels to avoid
the Falls of the Ohio, dangerous at all times, and often
impassable;[50]--another on the Schuylkil, where the aim is to deepen
the water sufficiently to render it at all times navigable.[51] Weirs
are carried at certain distances nearly across the river, leaving a
space for a short canal with two locks to pass vessels.
[Illustration: View at Fort Cumberland, Maryland]
Should this plan become generally adopted on those rivers where the
navigation fails annually from the loss of water, it will, among other
good results, conduce essentially to the health of the climate; by
preventing the stagnant pools left in hollows, and the exposure of slime
and mud to the sun, now the pregnant source of disorders.
Where, or when an American uses water for the purpose of washing more
than his face and fingers, {149} does not appear, for no water ever goes
up stairs at a tavern unless your own servants take it. Under the shed
of the house, water and tin basons are placed in the morning, and each
one on coming down rubs his face and hands over;--they may bathe perhaps
in the rivers occasionally; if not, they are decidedly dirty people.--An
English youth at our inn at Wheeling in order to wash himself a little
more effectually, let his shirt down to his waistband; an attempt at
cleanliness so unusual, caused a general surprise and laugh among the
_yahoos_.
At a small place called Claysville, a stage from Washington
(Pensilvania), a man came to offer to the tavern-keeper for sale a fat
pig; the price he demanded was about two shillings and sixpence sterling
per stone of fourteen pounds, and I was told that he would have taken a
quarter less.--Another proof this, if one were wanting, of the cheapness
and plenty of food.[52]
We stayed a day at Washington, Pensilvania, comfortably received at Mr.
Morris's good tavern, and then took a new route by the south-west corner
of this State: crossing the Monongahela river we baited at
Brownsville,[53] at an excellent house kept by Mr. Evans, an emigrant;
from {150} thence, by a fine new road through Union Town,[54] we soon
entered the picturesque State of Maryland, and arrived at a small town
called Fort Cumberland. The traveller by this route will pass the
mountains scarcely knowing it, except from the fine views of the
subjacent country which are frequently presented to view; that from the
top of the hill about eleven or twelve miles west of Cumberland is truly
magnificent. Along this well-formed road we pass without once being
stopped to pay toll, and I understood it to be the intention of the
United States government to finish and support this western road, from
Washington the seat of the government down to New Orleans, by a fund to
be raised solely for that purpose; a liberal plan and worthy of
imitation. Of the few picturesque stations it has been our lot to see,
Fort Cumberland stands first; it is not in itself a town of any
importance or containing many good buildings, but surrounded as it is by
mountains covered with beautiful foliage, and its stream winding through
the vale, it forms a whole worthy the pencil of a master: at the
distance of about six miles are some natural curiosities of rock, cave,
and waterfall, which, owing to the lateness of the season, I did not
chuse to lose a day in viewing though invited to it by the respectable
old Patriarch of {151} the settlement, who in his ninetieth year yet
offered to walk and accompany us to the scene.
[Illustration: View at Fort Cumberland, Maryland]
The reader will be mistaken if, from what has been said of good roads
and fine weather, he supposes we meet with nothing else; from a few
miles off Wheeling until this day or two, the air has been filled with
what in England would be thought a thick fog,--here they say it is
smoke arising from burning barrens and prairies which are yearly at
this time set on fire; indeed we have lately passed near enough to
woodland on fire to see the flames and to hear the crackling of the
timber; to our eyes a melancholy sight, accustomed as they have been to
value and admire the forest growth. This brings to remembrance what has
been told me of the great danger, and of lives lost in the Prairie
country, from the custom of setting fire to the long grass in order to
obtain a fine beautiful herbage, which, in a few weeks after succeeds
it: the devouring element assisted by the wind advances so quickly that
the speed of a horse has sometimes proved unavailing. The effect upon
the long rushy grass as the fire reaches it, is frightfully grand; the
heat first elevates and then throws it forward like waves, thus crossing
the country at a rate inconceivably rapid;--instances have occurred of
houses, cattle, and people suddenly falling a sacrifice to this rash
{152} method of clearing the ground: the way to avoid such a
catastrophe, the neglect of which occasioned to Mr. Flower the loss of
some stacks, is to mow the herbage to a sufficient distance round the
premises.
Nor is this danger to be apprehended only in the Prairie country. An
emigrant, crossing the mountains some few years ago, wrote thus back to
his alarmed friends, "the fire is before and behind me, I dare neither
go forward nor return, and what will become of me I know not:" as his
letter came safe we will hope he escaped.
Within this week a considerable number of waggons laden with goods and
people have passed on their way to the Western country: as this Indian
summer cannot last much longer, these parties would seem to be some of
the improvident of the earth not to have moved earlier to their
destination.
_November 13th._ The journey to-day, though over high hills and
tremendous rocky ways, has been one of the pleasantest drives we have
experienced: the clouds were just sufficiently broken to throw as they
flew, endless and varied light and shade over the most beautiful and
extensive views; rocks of various forms presented their rugged surfaces
amongst the thick growing Pines and Oaks which, though small and stunted
compared {153} to those in the Western country, are not on that account
the less picturesque; and though the land is also equally inferior, yet
such scenery, healthy air, and good water, must I conceive render
Maryland a desirable residence to the man of refinement and property, in
preference to any part that I have seen.
_14th._ A day more beautiful never opened or continued throughout. The
national road not being finished we had twelve miles of the old track
yet to pass, over rocks and gullies.
Maryland is a country of high narrow ridges, much rock, and but little
land of prime quality; the timber, chiefly pine and oak, is small,--the
rock which on this route everywhere abounds, is much of it strongly
impregnated with iron; there is also much of it limestone and granite.
Ridge after ridge we passed, rewarded by many an extensive and beautiful
view, until at length after an hour's toil up Sidling Hill we entered
upon the new road and bowled along down to the small town of Hancock
near the Potomac, skirting that beautiful river to Fredericktown.
_18th._ Fredericktown[55] stands in a good situation, having a fine view
of the ridges of hills immediately west of it. The place is about half
the size of Lexington (Kentucky): the inhabitants seem to be rich,
having erected many good {154} buildings both public and private, the
latter very tastefully and expensively furnished. The Court-house, a
handsome building, stands in a square which is _yet to be_ gravelled; on
one side we remarked a lofty shed under which were hung an enormous pair
of scales, seemingly typical of the purposes to which the central
building is devoted. Churches are plentiful, nine in number and some of
them well built. Talbot's tavern excellent and good attendance, but
charges, as they are every where on this road, very high.
This is a Slave State; an institution hateful to English ears; yet I
will observe again that after travelling through three slave States, I
am obliged to go back to theory to raise any abhorence of it: not once
during the journey did I witness an instance of cruel treatment, nor
could I discover anything to excite commiseration in the faces or gait
of the people of colour--they walk, talk, and appear at least as
independent as their masters; in animal spirits they have greatly the
advantage: doubtless there may be instances of cruelty, but I am
inclined to think that such are of rare occurrence, and this for other
reasons, as before remarked, besides those of humanity. Upon the
question "What is the proper place of the Black in the order of
creation?" (a subject which, after so much has been said on both sides,
yet remains {155} in dispute,) the tendency of the above observations
may seem to place him subordinate to the white--the next link in that
chain of gradation, almost imperceptible to us, which nature exhibits
throughout all her works: yet is the man of colour in general orderly in
his conduct under the every-day duties of life, and also instances are
not wanting of superior abilities among them, though they have not had
perhaps fair-play shewn them in this respect. I may have occasion to
observe more hereafter on this subject, meanwhile let it console the
philanthropist, that if the black is not in his proper place, yet he
possesses comforts, and appears very contented.
_19th._ At Baltimore. The view is fine from an eminence about half a
mile from the town, nor are you disappointed on entering the city;
though not so large, it is yet the most pleasing by far of the three
eastern ports we have visited: whether the beauty and taste, the variety
and neatness of the buildings, both public and private be considered, or
the plan and situation--the whole is indeed strikingly interesting. A
beautiful marble column is in part finished, a national monument to the
memory of those who fell in the battle at North Point;[56] not far from
this is in progress a superb Catholic cathedral, and close to it stands
a Unitarian church, an edifice not surpassed {156} in beauty by any in
the city. Besides these there are a variety of churches and other public
buildings: one of the most prominent the College of Physicians, a very
heavy combination, and not rendered the more pleasant by, we will hope,
the inappropriate neighbourhood of a burial ground. On the whole the
traveller cannot but be pleased with a view of Baltimore and the State
of which it is the chief town.
On leaving Baltimore about half a mile, a large burial ground presents
itself on the road side: the Americans inclose these places with little
or no fence, and very frequently bury their dead with little or no
ceremony;--as we passed this ground a man within it was carrying a
child's coffin under his arm, which he was going to inter apparently by
himself.--Mr. Birkbeck mentions the summary method in the western
country of felling a tree across the spot where they inhume a body: but
the tree had sometimes been removed, and we frequently drove over
hillocks in the wilderness under which lay the bones of the departed.
The road now led along the western edge of the grand bay of Chesapeak,
of which we caught frequent and delightful views--here indeed may
America justly pride herself; her bays and rivers stretching to a great
distance from the coast--{157} surely nothing in nature can exceed for
grandeur or utility. Havre de Grace at the mouth of the Susquehannah is
a small place, but beautifully and healthfully situated: it was burned
by us during the last war, they say upon very small provocation, which
has given a blow to the little prosperity it enjoyed; and a bridge now
building at a short distance up the river, by rendering the ferry
useless and turning the present road, will further hurt it. One of the
greatest dainties, the canvas-back duck, is here obtained in great
numbers and sent to Philadelphia and Baltimore markets; though this was
the season for them, we were not so fortunate as to feast upon the
delicacy. The Susquehannah is navigable for large vessels to the bridge,
and for small craft, I was informed, for near five hundred miles up the
country.
The tavern at Havre de Grace is far better than that on the opposite
shore; we had good beds and attendance. The ferry, about a mile wide,
is well managed; on landing, we drove on through Elkton, Christiana, and
Newport to Wilmington, a large town near the Delaware, and a place of
some trade: the State Bank is a good building. At night reached Chester;
the first inn was quite full and the next nearly so, which appeared very
unaccountable; but on enquiry learned that it is {158} the chief
_retiring place_ for Debtors, where in about five weeks residence they
get cleared of the _Dun disease_ and come out themselves again.
_23d._ A beautiful day: breakfasted near the small town of Darby, and
shortly after once again entered Philadelphia, after an absence of four
months, and a journey of above two thousand five hundred miles performed
in good health and with much interest throughout.
* * * * *
I now take leave of the Western country of the United States; and
although the reader may perhaps be enabled to gather from the foregoing
observations sufficient whereon to judge for himself, yet it may be
proper to sum up that which I have to say upon it; and it may be done in
a few words:--First addressing all those who are possessed of capital, I
will state, that if they are content to undergo for their own lives many
difficulties, and to make a certain sacrifice of many of the little
comforts they can possess and have been used to enjoy at a moderate cost
in England, they may then for a trifling sum establish their posterity
upon a good estate in America, which hereafter may place _them_ in
affluence; and this may be accomplished at a distance far short of the
Prairies of Illinois;--but let them be again reminded {159} that it must
be done at some risk, much trouble, and a certain sacrifice of many of
their own comforts: so much for those who look forward. As to immediate
prospects, taking the different ranks, professions, and businesses in
turn, I must first assure the gentleman and the idle man that they have
_no business_ in any part of the territory. The farmer who has been
accustomed to the regular markets, the constant labourers, and the
comforts of an English hearth, will here find the reverse of all these
and more; not so bad perhaps in the country nearest to the eastern
cities as in the west, where labour to manage more than a small portion
of his land is not to be had; and if it could, there is either no
market, or it is so distant that the small price he can obtain for his
grain renders it little worth growing; whilst this very distance from
market which thus acts against him, also renders the price of all
groceries at least double that which it is in the Eastern States.[57]
For professional men I saw no opening, unless it may be for dissenting
teachers in religion.--There are many young physicians spread about the
country who keep taverns for their support; as to lawyers, there are
enough for the population. {160} For manufacturers there may perhaps be
found some employ: but it is principally the young poor man who can turn
his hand to anything--the stout agricultural labourer, for whom this
country is at present calculated; here such men may, with reasonable
labour and activity, in a short time realise a little property, and
after living in comparative plenty and comfort, leave their families to
enjoy the same with independence. It is emphatically the country for the
poor man; but he must not go thither, as many have done, expecting no
difficulties to be encountered, no privations to be endured; nor must he
be disheartened at finding a cool reception, and work not immediately
offered on his arrival at the Eastern ports;--he must push forward
westward without idly stopping to spend his money and waste his time;
work his way if money runs short (he may at all places get food at least
for his services,) until he arrives at a place where hands are wanted
and good wages are offered for them; he has then a fair and near
prospect of comfort, taking care only to be industrious, frugal, and
especially to avoid habits of drinking, a vice the most difficult to
withstand where the spirits of the country are to be obtained for half a
crown the gallon.
There are people with us in England who object {161} to giving the poor
man any facility of emigration, and who are disposed to condemn
prospects held out to him of improving his present condition by a change
of country; I shall not stop to argue with such narrow policy and truly
anti-christian reasoners more than to say, that I will leave them to
point out, for I cannot, even in a political point of view, any loss to
a country arising from the emigration of a _redundant_ population.