This settlement, founded by some French families from Canada, though one
year older than Philadelphia cannot like it boast of great extent and
opulence;[38] it has not yet by any means lost its cabin appearance,
though the beneficial effects of the New Orleans market are beginning to
be very apparent; and good brick dwellings are fast erecting in the best
situations, behind which its log huts are hiding their diminished {93}
heads. A very good building of brick intended for a public school, has
been erected by the aid of ample funds left by an individual for the
purpose; yet, owing to strange neglect, the institution is suffered to
go to decay and no master has been provided. A handsome house belonging
to a General Harrison, the chief proprietor here, is also in a
dilapidated state, the General having left it to reside elsewhere.[39]
Further on, by the water-side, we visited a steam mill upon an extensive
scale; which grinds corn, saws timber into boards, and cards wool and
cotton; a most beneficial establishment for the surrounding country,
though I was told, not just now a good concern to the proprietors.
These, with two middling taverns, and a few substantial houses lately
erected constitute the chief buildings; the rest are a heap of wooden
huts occupied by traders in skins, and various other things with the
natives. The Wabash, a fine river, floats the produce of this commerce
and of the land, down to the Ohio, from whence it is conveyed to New
Orleans chiefly in steam boats which return laden with goods for their
market at an enormous profit. To elucidate a little the nature of this
trade I enter a few memoranda.
Indian corn or maize is bought here of the farmer at about a quarter
dollar the bushel, soon {94} after harvest; in spring it is sent down
the river to New Orleans under a freight of another quarter dollar per
bushel; and is sold there from seventy-five cents (three shillings and
sixpence) to a dollar. Wheat is bought at a price about sixpence or
sevenpence the bushel dearer than maize, and sells proportionally
higher.
For a return lading, Salt is bought at half a dollar per bushel, and
sells at Vincennes from two $ to two and a quarter $ ditto.
Loaf sugar sells at half a dollar, (2s. 3d.) per lb.
Brown sugar sells at 37-1/2 cents, (1s. 8d.) per lb.
Coffee at 75 cents, (3s. 6d.) per lb.
Tea at from 2-1/2 $ to 3-1/2 $ per lb.
and other groceries, many of which like the above are bought for
considerably less than half their selling price, in proportion: of iron
and drugs I could not obtain the price at New Orleans; but of the profit
on the iron the reader may judge by the price I paid to a blacksmith for
eight new horse-shoes, steel toes, and eight removes; the bill for which
was about ten dollars,--above two guineas! I remonstrated and appealed
in vain, the bill was paid; yet I cannot think that such a price is
charged to the inhabitants among themselves; but there is no justice and
little law but one's own arm; and {95} a man must be fain to yield
before a nest of ---- who join in plucking a stranger; indeed, he may
think himself well off if they are contented with a little plucking at
his purse, for instances are not unfrequent of individuals among them
being "rifled" for having rendered themselves obnoxious; which they do
equally if they are too good (_honest_) or too bad (_deep_) for them; or
not holding themselves sufficiently upon a level.
I did not learn the exact offence for which a deed of this nature was
perpetrated with impunity at a recent period not many miles from this
place, in the Prairie country, but the facts are as follows:--A party
proposed to each other coolly to go and shoot neighbour ***** who had
behaved ill to them at sundry times; it was agreed upon; they went to
his field, found the old man at plough and with unerring aim laid him
dead!--Mr. Flower himself related to me this atrocious affair, and I
did not hear that any punishment was ever talked of. Such is the state
of things in this western paradise! A beautiful garden indeed it is from
the hands of nature, and with but a little industry a most desirable
country to dwell in ... with a people who do not shoot each other: but
for a man of orderly habits and civilized manners, to leave his every
comfort, plunge into this wilderness, {96} and sit himself down among a
set of half savages far more expert that he can be in every thing
essential to such a life!--'tis a strange anomaly, and I think, "cannot
come to good." The young, the enterprising, the man who seeks a fortune,
may find a field for successful exertion--with great circumspection in
undertakings, and great good luck in escaping bad notes and bad debts,
large profits may accrue to industry; but let no one, who already may
possess the comforts of life, seek fortune, freedom or bliss in this
western speculation; for if he does, the chances are great that he will
lose all.
Though the profits of trade here may be even more favourable than above
stated, yet are there great risks, which ought to be taken into the
contemplation of those who may be inclined, by these accounts, to the
enterprise. Among the risks, one of the greatest arises from the not
uncommon accident of boats sinking, as no care however great, will at
all times prevent them from running upon hidden trunks of trees, when
they almost to a certainty go down if heavy laden; and in such cases all
the perishable part of the cargo is either lost or much damaged: a
catastrophe not to be guarded against, as in Europe, by insurance; there
not being at present any means of effecting it here. A more {97} safe
speculation seems to be that of the builder, and as far as I could
learn, equally profitable; the house in which I was, built of boards,
and which was said to cost about two hundred and twenty-five pounds
sterling, gains a rent of two hundred and fifty dollars clear of all
deductions. There are I have little doubt, many other channels of
profitable employment, and upon the whole it may be said, that this town
offers a station for young men of prudence, spirit, and a little
capital, where they may make a fortune; it is also a dry healthy
delightful country. As to the morals and religion of the inhabitants, I
cannot say that with respect to either they appear in a very favourable
light, if one may judge from any outward observances of the latter, or
conduct respecting the first, in affairs of business. Sunday is so
little marked as a day of rest or religious duty that I believe no
attention is paid to it, (except by the French catholics, who have a
wooden chapel;) and a stranger, who should arrive on a Sunday, might
well be led to conclude that it was a colony of Jews rather than of
Christians, and that their sabbath had been kept the day before;
tradesmen I saw carrying goods; farmers _hauled_ their corn; and the
water-mill went merrily round.
The price of labour is apparently high; a carpenter {98} or bricklayer
receives two dollars and his board per day; but as competition increases
I will not recommend the mechanic to rely upon getting such wages: and
if he should, he must take notice that the high price he must pay for
most articles of necessity, will bring his wages down nearer to a level
with other places than he might at first suppose; to be sure, there is
here less competition at present.
Having examined the town, and both ourselves and horses sufficiently
rested, we made the necessary inquiries and preparations to proceed to
the English Prairie in the Illinois State; from thence intending to
visit the German Settlement called Harmony on the Wabash, and returning
to winter at Vincennes. Receiving however, meanwhile, a pressing
invitation to accompany a gentleman to his country house about twenty
miles distant, it being represented as little deviating from our
intended route, I accepted of it; the more inclined perhaps, because of
his pleasing manners, and his being a native of the northern part of my
own country. Having however a little apprehension as to the fitness of
the roads we were going to pass over for wheels, I inquired of him
whether they would permit a carriage to travel; and all my doubts were
removed by his answer that "they were {99} as good as the town street,"
where we happened to be standing: we shall soon see how accurate his
account turned out to be.
It was a beautiful day in the latter part of September, that we started
on this expedition in my Dearborn; our friend on horseback leading the
way. We drove along a good turf road across the fine plain of Vincennes,
fully expecting to get on as smoothly and pleasantly as a gig party on a
Sunday excursion along what are called the "green lanes," around our own
metropolis;--we were not long suffered to enjoy these pleasing
anticipations however, for our guide suddenly turned into the wood and
the wheels came bump upon our old acquaintance a stump road.--While we
are getting on slowly upon it, I will just give a slight description how
such tracts are formed;--imagine a woodland in a state of nature:
through this, guiding themselves by compass, people get on as they can,
chopping a piece of bark from the trees in the line, which they call
"blazing," as a direction to those who follow with tools to cut down the
trees between those blazed, which they do at about a foot to a foot and
a half from the ground, leaving the stumps and brushwood standing. In a
short time this latter gets worn away, but the stumps remain a long
while; and between these, horsemen, waggons, and other {100} carriages
proceed, steering between, or bumping upon them, which is at times
unavoidable, and week after week I have driven to my own astonishment
how escaping, winding about among these stumps, progressing at most not
more than three miles an hour. Were the "four in hand" thought I, to try
their skill on these roads, many a wreck would soon strew the ground.
But to return to our adventure; for our companion calls, and presses me
to urge forward the horses; advice needless to give, for alas! we could
not adopt it. The small track became more blind; our guide appeared to
be confused; and not a little to my dismay and vexation, instead of road
as good as Vincennes town-street, we were at length entangled in
woodland; brushing through breaking boughs, going in and out through
bogs, and lifting the wheels over dead fallen trees as we could. In this
situation, as difficult to retreat as advance, I knew not what to do and
began to suspect some foul play; but recollecting the respectable
character our companion bore at Vincennes, I dismissed the thought, and
being both myself and servant armed I resolved to try to proceed; so
calling in a peremptory tone to our friend in advance to keep in sight,
for I fancied he seemed to be uneasy at his situation, and he at times
{101} disappeared, I asked him, not if this was his excellent road--I
was too vexed for that, but how much farther such difficulties would be
found: he answered not far; that we were near the river, and that we
would cross it at a nearer ferry than he had at first intended; adding,
he would ride on and get the boat ready, he vanished, after pointing the
way we were to follow.
I now thought he was gone, and had left us in the lurch; however we got
on by degrees, and at length had the pleasure to see the river side, and
our friend waiting for us with the crazy ferry boat, into which with
some difficulty we got the carriage. Our difficulties were now to cease
he said, and a good road the rest of the way was to reward our
exertions; for better assurance of these good tidings I endeavoured to
obtain some information from the boatmen as we crossed the Wabash; but
they proved to be Canadian French, and we did not sufficiently
understand their "_patois_" to gain any satisfactory account from them.
We landed safely; and after rising the river bank, actually did find a
tolerable good woodland road for some miles, until it approached without
much hinderance a small settlement, dignified with the name of Palmyra;
a place which to all appearance need not hope for the prosperity so
{102} much as it may fear the lot, of its prototype. Here we found a log
tavern, however, and we halted to consider what to do; for the day was
closing and I remembered there would be no twilight. In this dilemma I
again suffered myself to be guided by our companion, who represented,
that at this log inn we should not find any accommodations, either for
ourselves or horses beyond shelter, that his house was now but three
short miles further upon a good road; and that he had provided every
thing for our comfort as well as that of our cattle: yielding to these
pressing arguments, the rather too as he seemed a little chagrined at my
hesitation, I once more trotted on, which the horses could well do, for
about half a mile beyond the settlement. But how shall I describe what
followed! Our guide turned again into the wood calling out that it was
his _private road_: and private indeed we found it, for we soon lost all
track and light together.
There was now no retreating, so summoning up more resolution from
despair, I urged and encouraged my good little horses, and they dragged
the carriage at the constant risk of our necks, through brushwood, over
fallen trees, down and up precipitous banks and deep gullies, which I
could scarcely discern, and which if I could have seen should not have
attempted; {103} until I became so enraged at the man's deception that
had he given the least provocation I believe I should have shot him;
however he luckily avoided this by keeping a little in advance, and
mildly calling out now and then to direct the way saying we were very
near; and indeed, long after day had departed, we halted at a gate. Here
he advised us to get out and walk, as the way, up to the house for
wheels was circuitous; out therefore we got, when I perceived
approaching, carrying a light, a human figure in form, dress, and manner
as wild and complete a ruffian as ever Shakspeare pourtrayed.
To this being, whose appearance, and the friendly shake of the hand
given him by my conductor, did not tend to relieve my mind from
suspicions of I knew not what, I was fain to give up my horses; he
returned a surly answer in French to Mr. ***** who had said something I
did not understand, and receiving the reins from me jumped into the
carriage and drove away; but not alone, for I directed my man to go with
him; a service he probably did not much relish, but which in my then
state of mind I thought necessary. I now explored my way towards a
light, and soon came up to a portico which had the appearance of being
built in good style: here too I had the satisfaction to {104} meet the
carriage, which I had no sooner come up to, than a voice which seemed of
stentorian power hailed me from the portico with a torrent of words,
amongst which what struck me most was, "You have got here but you will
never get away again!" My host who had approached to press me to enter
his house, seemed to put this off with a smile _not quite easy_; and I
declined quitting my horses being determined to see them into the
promised stable; but upon expressing this intention the ill omened voice
again thundered, "Oh, there is no place for your horses but this,--they
will be safe enough,--they cannot _get out_."--"But they are warm," said
I; "have had a long pull ever since noon without bait, and will catch
cold out of a stable." "Can't help it" was the answer; but just after he
added, "to be sure there is a log place, but it has no roof!" My host
now again returned to invite me in; and under his assurance that the
horses should have every care taken of them, and knowing that my own man
would do his best for them, I reluctantly gave up the point; mounted a
flight of steps, crossed the Piazza, and entered a room not calculated
to make amazement cease. It was spacious, lofty, well-proportioned, and
finished in every part in the very best style of workmanship: a good
wood fire {105} blazed upon a beautiful polished grate, the
appertenances to which were equally handsome; a marble chimney piece,
the tables, chairs, the supper table, and lights supported in handsome
branches, all which is commonly seen in good houses, was here,
surrounded by primæval wilderness; an accomplishment so wonderful that
it seemed not to be within any power short of those of necromancy, and
when my mind glanced back upon the way we had been led, I might fairly
suspect the person who had done it to have some credit at the court of
his Satanic Majesty. Such thoughts however were well dispelled by a neat
supper, served in a manner corresponding with the appearance of the
place; and by the aid of some excellent wine our spirits began to flow
as the impressions of the day's adventures were, for a while, lost in
social converse. Our host I found to be a man of the world; knowing
perfectly well how, and practising that which he knew, to be agreeable;
full of anecdote, which he gave well; and after keeping it up to a late
hour we retired to rest in a handsome adjoining chamber.
Rising with the early sun, refreshed from the harass of the preceding
day, I walked out anxious to explore the lodgings of my four-footed
companions, not much expecting to find that "every {106} care" had been
taken of them; indeed after a considerable search I at length discovered
the place of their confinement, in an inclosure of logs without the
slightest roof; of course they looked piteously, for the nights had
become rather keen and frosty. Perhaps it may be thought by some readers
that too much has been said of the dumb servants; but let those who
think so either take a journey, during which their lives shall
constantly depend upon the steadiness of their horses or at least let
these objectors reflect, that during such daily acquaintance a sort of
mute friendly understanding takes place between the driver and his
cattle;--they will then no longer wonder at his anxiety for their
welfare. And here let us bring this strange adventure to a close; we
passed two days very pleasantly, during which we met with the most
attentive hospitality, and I am unwilling to search for other motive;
though, perhaps, it might principally be to induce me to engage in aid
of a scheme to build mills upon a favourable situation on the Wabash
river: this I mention, in order to take the opportunity of cautioning
emigrants against engaging in the schemes, generally delusive, of the
old settler or the American. However plausible they may appear, let him
be the more cautious; it may happen that {107} they answer--some do so;
but nine individuals in ten of those who are drawn in are ruined
notwithstanding; for they get wheedled out of their property by trick
and chicanery, which the American laws too much favour.
Let those therefore who come into this country, and bring capital with a
view to settle, take good care not to be in the least haste to lay it
out: let them keep their money in their pockets and view a speculation
on all sides; nay, turn it inside out before they venture a dollar in
it: and above all, let the emigrant distrust his own judgment, and ever
keep in mind that the American upon his own soil is in business and
speculation an overmatch for Europeans. One material reason for which
is, that he is not at all nice or scrupulous about the means, so he
attains his end; which is money,--money,--for ever, money. It is
therefore much safer for an emigrant to embark in business by himself
than to trust his property in partnership; in the first case, he may at
least know how he is going on; in the last, it is probable he never will
until too late.
An instance of the result of delusive expectations, may be seen in the
man who has been an inmate a long time past with my present host, and
from whom the words of ill-omen proceeded on the night of our arrival.
He was {108} born in a manufacturing district in England and brought up
a builder and cabinet-maker: discontented, as truly too many have had
reason to be, with the remunerations of his business he embarked, with
his wife and a decent capital in money, for America. Set ashore upon its
coast, he found not his sanguine expectations realized; therefore
wandered into the western country, working at little gain for one person
and another, until his capital was considerably lessened: when at length
he met with this gentleman, who engaged him to build the house in which
we have been so well entertained;--with him, he has placed the remainder
of his money, to be repaid to him with interest whenever a large bill
due for his exertions shall be settled:--Perhaps his troubles and
disappointments in this life may be over before this happens, for a
rapid decline is carrying him off, and we will hope that then heaven
will send a protector to the widow and the fatherless.
{109} A VISIT TO THE ENGLISH SETTLEMENT IN THE ILLINOIS
On the third morning we made early preparations for departure; and
accepting gladly the offer of the builder for a guide, we took leave of
_Marvel Hall_ and, not without considerable apprehensions of
difficulties to come in getting away, started for the town of Albion, as
the English settlement is called. According to expectation the way was
not free from wood, bog, gully, and stump; but with the aid of day these
obstacles were overcome without accident; and after having traversed
several miles of woodland and prairie, covered with long grass and
brushwood, and having lost our way once or twice, we at length crossed a
narrow forest track, and rising an eminence entered upon the so-much
talked-of BOULTON HOUSE Prairie; just as the sun in full front of us was
setting majestically, tinging with his golden rays what appeared to be a
widely extended and beautiful park, belted in the distance with woodland
over which the eye ranged afar. The ground was finely _undulated_, and
here and there ornamented with interspersed {110} clumps of the White
Oak and other timber, in such forms that our picturesque planters of
highest repute might fairly own themselves outdone. The effect was
indeed striking, and we halted to enjoy it until the last rays of the
beautiful luminary told the necessity of hurrying on to the settlement,
in search of quarters for the night; indulging by the way sanguine hopes
of an English supper and comfort as a matter of course at an English
settlement. The road was good, yet the length of way made it nearly dark
when we drove up to the log tavern; before the door and dispersed, stood
several groups of people, who seemed so earnest in discourse that they
scarcely heeded us; others, many of whom were noisy from the effects of
a visit to the whiskey store, crowded round to look at us; and amidst
the general confusion as we carried the luggage in (having first
obtained a bed-room,) I was not a little apprehensive of losing some of
it. However, we got all safely stored, and taking the horses off led
them into a straw-yard full of others, for there was no stable room to
be had; and what was worse no _water_, not sufficient even to sprinkle
over some Indian corn which we got for them. The landlord did all that
lay in his power, but our own fare proved little better than that of our
horses, which spoke volumes {111} on the state of the settlement; some
very rancid butter, a little sour bread, and some slices of lean fried
beef, which it was vain to expect the teeth could penetrate, washed down
by bad coffee sweetened with wild honey, formed our repast. We asked for
eggs,--milk,--sugar,--salt; the answer to all was "We have none." The
cows had strayed away for some days in search of water, of which the
people could not obtain sufficient for their own ordinary drink; there
being none for cattle, or to wash themselves, or clothes. After making
such a meal as we could, and having spread our own sheets I laid down
_armed at all points_, that is with gloves and stockings on, and a long
rough flannel dressing gown, and thus defended slept pretty well.
In the morning a request was sent to Mr. Birkbeck for some water,
understanding that he had a plentifully supplied well;--the answer sent
back was, that he made it a general rule to refuse every one: a similar
application to Mr. Flower however met with a different fate, and the
horses were not only well supplied, but a pitcher of good water was sent
for our breakfast. If the first was not punished for his general refusal
the latter was rewarded for his grant by finding on his grounds and not
far from his house, two days after, a plentiful spring of clear {112}
water, which immediately broke out on the first spit of earth's being
removed; this real treasure I saw flowing; the discovery of it appeared
miraculous in the midst of so general a drought.
We now sallied out to take a view of the settlement, which is marked out
not on prairie, but on woodland, only just partially cleared here and
there where a house is built; so that there is yet but little appearance
of a town. A very neat roofed-in building for a market first attracts
the eye; at one end, parted off with boards, and under the same roof is
a very decent place of worship; which is at present of a size sufficient
for the place.
While we were viewing this edifice a young Englishman introduced himself
with a welcome to us, and hopes expressed that I should settle among
them; he was, I found, the medical man of the place, and in himself
certainly formed one inducement to stay, for he seemed to be a very
pleasant communicative man, he possessed a very prettily finished
picturesque cottage and seemed sanguine in his hopes of the success of
the settlement. We visited a wheelwright next; one of the many who had
been induced by Mr. Birkbeck to emigrate soon after he himself left
England:--The man's story is shortly this: he and his brother sailed
{113} for America; and were induced by Mr. B.'s "Notes" to leave the
Eastern parts where good employment was offered to them, and to repair
to the Prairies. On arriving, he found none of the cottages ready for
the reception of emigrants which _his reading_ had led him to expect,
nor any comforts whatever: he was hired however by Mr. B., and got a log
hut erected; but for six months the food left for his subsistence was
only some _reasty_ bacon and Indian corn, with water a considerable part
of the time completely muddy; while Mr. B., himself at Princetown and
elsewhere, did not, as he might have done, send him any relief. On
account of these hardships the man left him, set up for himself, and now
has, he told me, plenty of work, but he seemed doubtful of the pay.
These are the facts as related to me by others, and corroborated by the
man:--If true, without some strong qualifying circumstances, I leave Mr.
B. to settle with his conscience the bringing people out thus far, by
his misrepresentations, to hopeless banishment; for return they cannot,
though they would be glad so to do.
Our tavern-keeper, who was a very respectable farmer, left a good farm
near Baldock in Hertfordshire, guided by Mr. Birkbeck's book, to find
health, wealth, and freedom at Boulton-house {114} Prairie: of the two
first both himself and family were quickly getting rid, while they were
absolutely working each day like horses without one comfort left.--"How
came you," said I, "to leave so good a farm as you had in England?" His
answer was, "Mr. Birkbeck's book."--"You would be glad now to return?"
added I. "Sir," said he, "we must not think that way; we have buried our
property in getting here, and must here remain!" Such facts as these
are worth a thousand flattering theories on the other side; and another
may be here added,--perhaps a salutary caution to Mr. B. if this should
be the first intimation--that the angry feelings of the poor people who
had been entrapped by the deceptious colouring of his writings, flashed
out in true English threats of tossing him in a blanket! I abstain from
comment upon this, my business being to state facts. I forbear too from
respect for a man of good natural abilities; misled himself by a
sanguine temper which has been the cause of his misleading others: I
will be silent too upon the subject of private differences, conceiving
that public acts alone are those in which the public are interested, and
ought to be inquisitive.
Mr. Flower followed up his seasonable supply of water, with a call and
invitation to his house, {115} which was gladly accepted; being much
disgusted at the deplorable state of ill health, anxious looks, despair
and discontent, depicted in so many faces around,--to relieve or even
alleviate which we possessed no means.
The contrast to this at Mr. Flower's was violent and pleasing; there, we
met with every polite and hospitable attention during our stay, and from
thence alone we were grieved to depart. In the midst of these wilds the
elegant repast and social converse were again, as if by magic, enjoyed;
and in such agreeable dissipation of mind the purposes of the journey
were perhaps too much lost sight of, and many inquiries neglected which
are now causes of regret. We did not fail however to explore the retreat
of Mr. Morris Birkbeck,--a pleasant drive across the Prairie brought us
to the Flat, at one extremity of which Mr. B. has established himself.
We found him busy superintending the building of his house; the site of
which is within twenty yards of his erection of logs, a square building
divided into two rooms, as I heard, for we did not see the interior of
this _sanctum sanctorum_ from whence have been issued relations of so
many snug cottages, with adjoining piggeries, cow-steads, gardens, and
orchards; where the limbs of the poor emigrant were to find repose and
his {116} mind solace, not to mention the ranges of log rooms for the
arch priest himself which were building two years ago;[39*] all--all
have vanished "into thin air," except the humble primitive log building
before mentioned. This serves the whole family, according to the
cobbler's song,
"For parlour, for kitchen and hall;"
and furnishes a proof, though perhaps not sufficient for every one, (the
world is so incredulous,) of Mr. Birkbeck's humility, for he certainly
does not at present enjoy the _otium cum dignitate_ whatever he may have
in prospect.
Up to this log building with some meandering I drove; and seeing a
little man, who by description received, appeared to be Major domo, I
sent to tell him that an English traveller had called and begged to see
his improvements; upon which he approached, and after salutation,
turning towards and pointing to his primitive hut, observed that it was
still his residence, to which so attached had he become that he should
quit it with regret. He then drew my attention to his new house, which
he said, was building according to a promise made to his daughters; and
he invited us to inspect it. Alighting therefore, he led the way {117}
over a sufficiently commodious dwelling, no part of which was yet
finished but the library, placed at the gable end on the first floor and
the approach to it up a high flight of stairs on the outside of the
house: here we found the Misses B.; they were engaged in some
ornamental needlework, and received us like sensible, agreeable girls.
Upon the table lay a flute, an instrument upon which one of them plays;
and every thing was well arrayed to give effect, as well as the
sterling, good, and for a private library large assortment of books. A
fine healthy boy, his son, came up and presented to us some bunches of
wild grapes he had just gathered, the only refreshment I believe
offered; and I took leave, after having in vain endeavoured to gain
information as to his corn-crops, the success of clover, and other
seeds.
This was strange, but not so particularly unaccountable as at the time I
thought it; for, I afterwards learned he had not sown either one or the
other, although he ventures to put forth this year in one of the
American newspapers, what in charity we will suppose a day-dream--a
pleasing mental deception, in the form of a letter in which he expresses
himself thus; (I quote from memory having mislaid the journal,) "We have
now about as many acres {118} of corn sown as there are settlers, that
is seven hundred."
Now, from the best inquiries I could make, there was not then two
hundred and fifty acres sown in the whole settlement, and on Mr.
Birkbeck's ground not a rood! Therefore, it may be truly said, that the
colony was still for its existence depending for bread upon the
exertions of those who, from a distance of many miles, bought and
brought corn and flour for the market. In corroboration, I will here
insert an extract from a published journal by a Mr. Hulme,[40] formerly
a great bleacher near Manchester, and a friend of Mr. B., who had lately
paid him a visit. Mr. H. writes, "The whole of his operations had been
directed hitherto (and wisely in my opinion,) to building, fencing, and
other important preparations. He had done _nothing in the cultivating
way but make a good garden_, which supplies him with the only things
that he cannot purchase, and purchase too with more economy than he
could grow them."
This Mr. Hulme knew the comforts and cheapness of Philadelphia, and its
market, too well to think of settling at Boulton-house Prairie; besides,
he evidently sneers, as much as a friend can, at the choice of situation
Mr. B. has made, because it appears not to possess any {119} of the
capabilities for mills, &c.: he adds, "I was rather disappointed, or
sorry at any rate, not to find near Mr. Birkbeck's any of the means for
machinery, such as waterfalls, minerals, and mines; some of those
however he may yet find."
Thus has Mr. B. chosen to build a house, plant a garden, and dwell in a
situation where he cannot grow corn so cheap as he can purchase it, and
have it conveyed at a considerable expence from the settlement of
Harmony,[41] distant above twenty miles; in a situation too, which if it
have any recommendation at all, it must be for the purposes of
agriculture, for others it has none that are yet discovered. This may be
to the taste, and it may suit the purse of Mr. B., and no one could
fairly find fault with him for pleasing himself; but, when he steps
beyond this line, and publishes plausible representations to induce
others to seek fortune and independence in such situations, he is then
doing that which he has no right to do, and has much to answer for: he
has led people into this wilderness where, for any thing he has done,
they may in vain look around for the expected shelter; they will see
only Mr. B's house and garden, and perhaps {120} two or three log huts
which at present constitute the whole of the new town of Wansborough; in
short, he seems only to have thought of himself and to have falsified
his public promises. I believe it to be a fact that the colony could not
have outlived the winter of 1818, but that the whole must have been
dispersed or starved, had it not been for the exertions of Mr. Flower;
who perceived in time the coming want, and at considerable trouble and
expence obtained a sufficient and timely supply. Mr. Birkbeck, in his
publication, inveighs strongly against land-jobbing; yet if I am
correctly informed he has obtained and is now gaining great profits by
it,--he has entered as many as thirty thousand acres, which he now
disposes of in lots as high, where he can, as four dollars per acre; it
seems indeed to be his only business, to carry on which with better
success he has given to others, it is said, an interest in the concern
to find out and bring in purchasers of more money than judgment. One of
these jackals, reported to be so employed, I met with on the road.
Having said thus much of an individual who has become noted for
promissory books, and who therefore deserves to be noted for
non-performance, let us turn to the contemplation of that which has been
accomplished by those who did {121} not promise any thing, but who have
done much. Mr. Flower, ably assisted by his father and in conjunction
with a few others, has formed the settlement of New Albion, (an
auspicious name;) and notwithstanding the miserably unprovided state in
which I found it, much had certainly been done, and more was rapidly
doing towards rendering the place habitable. Among other well-judged
resolutions, they had determined, that in future all the houses should
be substantially built of bricks, for the manufacture of which they
have, as I understood, plenty of good clay in the neighbourhood.
A neat covered market, and place of worship, as before observed, had
been finished and opened to the public; to which I have to add that a
roomy boarding house and tavern were half up; a store (shop) pretty well
supplied was opened; a wheelwright has been already mentioned: besides
this trade many other artisans had come in, and the chief want was a
sufficiency of the several materials of their business to work upon; but
fair expectations may be entertained that, ere this account shall be
published, the place will have become well supplied with most of the
common comforts of life, not excepting the essential of water.
It clearly appears, that at present the {122} produce of the earth can
be _bought_ cheaper than it can be _grown_ here; but let us look forward
to the period when this shall not be the case, and the time must surely
soon arrive or the colony cannot long exist:--What then will be the
prospect of a market that the settler will have for the produce, which
shall be more than the consumption of the neighbourhood? It is this,--at
about twelve miles distance is a place called Bon Pas, consisting of a
tavern and two or three houses, situated upon a creek communicating with
the Wabash river; to this creek, (the mud in which not always allowing
boats to come up it,) as the nearest point from the English settlement
to water carriage, all the corn and other exportable produce must be
hauled by land; to be conveyed in boats down to Shawnee town on the
Ohio,[42] (sixty miles,) and thence down that river and the Mississippi
to New Orleans: there to be shipped either for Europe, or for the
eastern ports of America. It must be obvious then, that the price which
can possibly be allowed to the western grower, in order to meet the
eastern farmer on equal terms in his own market, must ever make the
business of the first a comparatively bad one: and as it is thus in the
American markets so will it be in Europe; the freight from the eastern
ports being so much less, as {123} the distance is less, and navigation
safer;--but against this manifest disadvantage may be set the supposed
greater fertility of the western country, and the less price of the land
per acre: but it will never do.--These advantages, if granted, are more
than counterbalanced by the higher price of all the imported articles of
common consumption.
The best hope of the English settlement must be, that in the common
course of events, the time may arrive when the population will be
sufficient to make its own markets; and awaiting that period, they must
be resigned to sink their immediate interests in the prospect of laying
the foundation of future fortune for their posterity. Meanwhile, it may
have attractions for many; whether on account of their principles
religious or political, from general turn of mind, or misfortunes met
with elsewhere; to such it may afford an asylum: but let none forget
that the comforts of life are more than cent per cent dearer (and many
are not to be obtained at all,) than they are in the eastern States; and
that for this cause, more than the climate it is, that health is far
more likely to be preserved in the old settled country, than here.
The strange heterogeneous mixture of characters which are collected
hither by the magic {124} pen of Morris Birkbeck, is truly ludicrous.
Among many others, a couple now attend to the store at Albion who
lately lived in a dashing style in London not far from Bond-street; the
lady brought over her white satin shoes and gay dresses, rich carpets,
and every thing but what in such a place she would require; yet I
understand that they have accommodated themselves to their new
situations, hand out the plums, sugar, whiskey, &c., with tolerable
grace, and at least "do not seem to mind it." At Bon Pas we sat down to
a wild turkey with a party among whom was an _exquisite_, so complete,
that had it been the age of genies, I should have thought _it_ had been
pounced upon while lounging along Rotten-row, whirled through the air,
and for sport set down in this wilderness to astonish the natives: the
whole has truly a most pantomimic effect, and Momus might keep his court
at this anomalous scene, and laugh to his full content.
Let us now bid adieu to the English settlement, my sentiments respecting
which are, from what has been said, so obvious as to render any thing
more unnecessary. We are taking the road to the German settlement called
Harmony, and will only stop the wheels to make mention of the very
complete farm yards and surrounding {125} buildings, which Mr. Flower
has erected; also of his flock, consisting of upwards of four hundred
sheep, which has been collected in a very short space of time and part
of which he brought from England; these feed during the day upon the
prairies, and are brought into the yards at night _for safety from the
wolves and bears_.[43] A yoke of fine oxen too were daily plowing for
him the prairie land, and preparing a considerable breadth of it for
cultivation:--But though men of capital may thus in great measure bring
many of their comforts with them, and attract others, yet after all
that can be said of this place it is at present a bad concern; from
which it was with no small pleasure that I knew myself in a situation to
get away; and many,--many expressed themselves to be of the same
opinion, though with rueful faces, for they were obliged to stay, having
spent their all to get there.