Though a winter passage across the Atlantic may be quick it is almost
always unpleasant; this thought, aided by a wish to see a little more of
the climate and people ere I should bid to both farewell, determined me
to stay till spring. The following notes and reflections are the fruit
of the protracted residence, and they are presented to the reader nearly
as they stand in my journal: in their nature they must be desultory, and
by essaying to render them more connected, the little interest they may
possess might be made yet less.
_December_ 6th. A beautiful day, even warm, as indeed the mid-day has
hitherto been, yet the {162} thermometer in an east room window opened
at early morning stood at 33°.
Rode with D***** to the view on the Schuylkil called the "Flat Rock." On
the way called at Mr. Fletcher's screw factory,--Mr. F. took pains to
explain to us the machinery, though after all we best understood the
_result_; one of the machines cut the iron rod into proper lengths and
turned out seven screws complete per minute; with only the attendance of
a boy, it forms thirty-five gross per day. Two miles more partly along
the bank of the river, and amongst its beautiful scenery, brought us to
the Flat Rock, and we crossed by an inclosed wood bridge. One of the
dams which have been already mentioned is here formed, and there is a
canal on one side with locks for the passage of vessels;--the broad
cascade of the silvery waters sparkling in the sun over the dam, and the
high, broken, and wooded banks of the river, presented a scene, even
without the aid of foliage, enchanting. We returned by the old Lancaster
road, making a pleasant ride of about twenty miles. In the evening
called with D**** on Mr. H. This gentleman's life affords an instance of
successful industry, by no means uncommon in this country of enterprise
and speculation; it is also interwoven with some extraordinary
incidents. At setting out in life's {163} career he and a brother laid
out their several portions in goods such as they judged best for the
market, and with them sailed for this country: the venture proved
fortunate; the goods were quickly sold to great profit, and his brother
again set sail for England to purchase more with the produce. But here a
cruel disappointment awaited Mr. H., for his relative instead of
pursuing the intentions of his voyage, engaged on his arrival in Europe
in other speculations, lost the whole of the money, and his anxious
partner in America, when riches seemed already to be within his grasp,
received notice of his brother's misconduct, and found himself suddenly
reduced to his last shilling, in a foreign land, and without a friend!
Young and active, however, his mind bore up against poverty, and, though
at the age now of three and twenty, he took the resolution to bind
himself apprentice to a trade of which he already knew a little; at this
he served his time; by steadiness and application perfected himself in
the business; then set up for himself in prosperous times, and rapidly
made a handsome income, which he now comfortably enjoys. Let us here
venture reverentially to trace the moral justice of Providence in the
life of the brother, who, though enterprising and at one period
apparently prosperous, was reduced by successive losses;--{164} was
taken by the French and imprisoned for several years;--being at length
set at liberty he got together sufficient money to freight a vessel at
one of the southern ports of that country, but which in coming round
from thence for England was lost; and himself also soon after perished
at sea.
9th. Just returned from a shooting excursion in Jersey. We saw
pheasants, partridges, and rabbits, but few of any of these were shot:
the American pheasant seems half grouse, the partridge half quail, and
the rabbit half hare.[58] Buffon and the Abbè Raynal[59] have both
remarked that the animals of this continent are larger than those of
Europe, but the fox, pheasant, partridge and woodcock are all certainly
much smaller.--The Jersey horses are excellent hacknies, for a pair of
them drew us in a lumbering vehicle eight miles with ease in about an
hour along a heavy sandy road.
We have been told there are no taxes in America, or that they are few
and light; I insert therefore a copy of a tax paper handed to me by a
gentleman of Philadelphia.
+-------+-----------+--------------+------------+------+-------+---+
| | City. | | Poor. | | | |
|Rates. | 50 Cents. | Co. 25 Cents.| 30 Cents. |Water.|Total. | |
| | 100 $ | 100 $ | 100 $ | | | |
+-------+-----------+--------------+------------+------+-------+---+
|$ Cts.| $ Cts. | $ Cts. | $ Cts. | .... |$ Cts.| |
| | | | | | | |
|88 : 00| 44 : 00 | 22 : 00 | 26 : 40 | |92 : 40| |
+-------+-----------+--------------+------------+------+-------+---+
{165} Besides these there are still levied a poll-tax of one dollar; a
dog-tax of one dollar, and I believe some others. During the last war, a
tax was laid upon top-boots, watch-chains, part of household furniture,
and various other articles.--Horses and carriages are also virtually
taxed, for the assessor calling to put his queries in order to make out
the assessment asks, among other questions, "Does Mr. ***** keep a horse
or mare, a gig or other carriage?" and upon being answered in the
affirmative he increases the poll-tax in proportion: this district or
parish officer has, or I am misinformed, in great measure discretionary
powers, and as he is elected by _all_ the inhabitants of the district,
whether they do possess property or not, the consequence may be easily
foreseen.--Thus are the Americans pretty well taxed according to their
means of paying: in the country indeed taxes are very little if at all
paid, for the reason that the government either cannot or dare not levy
them; hardly indeed, in some places dare the owners claim the land
itself from the _Squatters_. An instance of this lately occurred in a
distant part of Pensilvania: a proprietor having heard of several
settlers upon his land without purchase or permission, mounted his horse
and journeying to his allotment soon came up to a good log house; a
Squatter was at his door, {166} and the owner, by way of entering into
conversation with him, observed that he had erected a comfortable
dwelling there; to which the other assented.--"But, my friend, I am told
that you and several more have built here without any title to the land,
and the owner is coming to remove you." The man, who had his rifle in
his hand, immediately pointing to a pig at a distance took aim and shot
it dead; then turning to the alarmed proprietor told him, that if the
owner should ever come to disturb him he would serve him as he had
served that pig.
_Sunday_ 12th. In the morning attended the episcopal church, a building
handsomely decorated withinside: near the pulpit, which was placed
within the altar, sat a Bishop in his lawn sleeves, &c. supported in a
chair of state of carved wood, the mitre surmounting the back;--he took
no part in the service, but I understood he would officiate in the
ceremony of admission to a young minister. In the middle of the service,
otherwise conducted with decency, a man with a money box came into every
pew to levy contributions for the support of the church. In the evening
went to the Presbyterian church, where we heard much singing. Here a
purse at the end of a long stick was thrust into every pew for
contributions: this mode of raising funds for whatever purpose is an
abomination.
{167} Marriage is here a civil contract, though some parties have the
ceremony read by a minister; in general they may and do go before the
Mayor, a Justice, or as they are called here a 'Squire, and declaring
their resolution to take each other for man and wife, the contract is
binding. As to registers I understand they are very inaccurately kept,
if at all in many places, of either marriages, christenings, or burials,
which must occasion most profitable confusion for the lawyers.
Went with ***** to one of the many billiard tables in this city; the
game usually played is the four balls, two red and two white. This
seemed to me a very childish play and well suiting the table-keeper, as
from the facility of _cannoning_ the game is soon finished. Returning
home my companion proposed to dive into one of the Oyster Cellars, to
which agreeing we vanished in a trice, and entering the infernal abode,
the heat of which was at least that of a hot-house, we found a room well
lighted and boxes arranged like our coffee-houses, except that the
partitions were carried to the ceiling and the addition of curtains in
front.--We supped well upon stewed oysters brought upon a chaffing dish,
and a sallad of finely shredded raw cabbage and celery, which I found
very palatable; for these with beer we paid half a dollar, and again
rose to encounter the keen air of a {168} frosty night. It is I
apprehend these constant sudden changes of temperature, and not severity
of climate, which destroy the constitutions of many here, and render the
use of flannel next the skin indispensable.
No one will again say that this country is free from paupers when he
learns that there are subscriptions for the support of public soup
establishments, which find plenty of employment throughout the winter.
'Tis true the poor here seem to be more fastidious than with us, for a
pauper in my hearing the other day objected to some good cold meat
offered to her, because it was too cold for her stomach, and said she
would prefer some money if the giver pleased.
_Sunday_ 26th. Went with ***** to a Roman Catholic church: the altar
very handsome, but the architecture and decorations more calculated for
a temple dedicated to Venus, than for the sanctity of a christian
church. Between the pillars of corinthian order which supported the
altar was a view of the Holy City and the Temple, well painted in
distemper, and before this full as large as life the Crucifixion, the
first view of which sight of horror, must make a sickening impression;
but its constant presence deadens the feelings, and renders devotion
grounded upon it a mere ceremony, as the "nods and becks and wreathed
{169} smiles" between acquaintances coming in during the prayers plainly
proved. The priest on his entrance, being finely enrobed in a scarlet
velvet and worked muslin petticoat, commenced his operations by a very
hearty and plentiful use of his pocket handkerchief, which "I thought to
myself" might as well have been done before his entrée; he then with a
voice like a bull-frog began prayers, but after some progress turned
short round from the altar to the congregation and in very familiar
language said he was too hoarse to preach, but would, as I understood,
give them more prayers instead. He again during prayers took sudden
occasion to remind them of some particular day in the ensuing week, and
then finished the orisons;--the priest's voice was very pleasingly
relieved by the singing from the organ-loft, it was fine and impressive.
The ceremony of the purse was here too gone through and then we
departed, the organ playing very well but not very àpropos "_Adeste
fideles_."
An affair occurred last week at New York which caused a considerable
sensation,--a young man in a fit of angry malice stabbed another in the
open street with a concealed cane dirk. He fled, but was pursued and
taken: when brought before the magistrates twenty thousand dollars were
offered as bail for his appearance, which {170} has not been in this
case accepted; though I am told it is not at all uncommon here to take
bail in cases of murder, or rather manslaughter to speak technically. No
wonder then that duels of that assassin character are of so frequent
occurrence. It is common to practise beforehand on giving or receiving a
challenge, and I believe rifle-barrelled pistols have been used; if
after this a man is admitted to bail, let the assassin go free.
31st. After a long continuance of fine mild weather, in the mid-day
sometimes even hot, winter comes clothed in his thickest fleecy
covering, ushered in by as fine and gentle a rain as ever fell in
autumn; the snow is already a foot deep, and sleds, or as they are
called here sleighs, are moving in all directions. These carriages are
not only applied to the useful purposes of life at this season, but they
also afford an amusement much indulged in by all who can afford
it;--there are sleighs of various sizes drawn by from one to four
horses, and some of these carriages are of a form elegant enough, and
handsomely covered within by the rich furry skins of the Bear and
Buffalo; the horses wear belts of bells round their necks and bodies,
and also some at their ears; this, which is a legal regulation intended
to give notice of their approach, and thus to prevent accidents, {171}
is rendered an affair of ornament to delight the eye and the ear, the
bells being nicely assorted to harmonize, and affixed to handsome
leather belts. The fun and frolic consists in large parties forming a
cavalcade of these sleighs to some place of public resort at a distance,
where when arrived, the dance is struck up, hot wines are drunk as a
refreshment, and in the night, after a good supper, wrapped in furs and
huddled together, they drive helter skelter home not "alone by the light
of the moon."
Americans make amends for the want of originality of invention by a
quick perception and adoption of whatever is useful in other nations;
without owning that they do so, they servilely copy us in every thing;
for examples among so many, Savings Banks are adopted to great extent.
Lotteries are of as frequent occurrence as with us; schemes are for ever
publishing, and without any other difference than the substitution of
dollars for pounds; head prize, 20,000 dollars, second 10,000, and so on
down to 10 and 5. The state of pauperism has even obliged them to adopt
the before-mentioned soup institutions, which are now in daily action at
each quarter of the city, besides other places where bread, and at some,
clothing, is given away to proper objects of the charity; many of whom
they say are Emigrants {172} out of employ.[60] The newspapers indeed
are full of advertisements for employ, and societies are established by
Englishmen to relieve and forward poor emigrants to where their services
may be wanted; but I am informed by a subscriber that the applications
to them for working hands are just now but few: work would be plentiful,
but money is wanting, meanwhile Penitentiaries and prisons and
poor-houses are full! This does not form an inviting picture to the
emigrant.
Writers on the United States have too much said the _thing which is
not_, and too little the thing which is; consequently I entered the
country with impressions which have almost all been totally changed by
actual observation. We have been told that suits at law are here quickly
heard and as quickly determined: walking the other day in Philadelphia
with a gentleman, he pointed to some buildings we were passing, and
surprised me by observing that he had for _many years_ been disputing at
law the possession of them. My landlady too is engaged in a lawsuit of
many years standing, and of which she knows not the probable
termination. Whether these evils are some for which they may thank our
administration is {173} not here worth enquiring, as a wise nation
should have remedied them when it formed for itself a Constitution; but
in this and many other instances they still suffer under many of the
evils of which we complain.
In a statement of grievances drawn up by a Grand Jury at a late county
Assize in Pensilvania, it is complained that improper persons are put
into the commission of the peace, and of the improper conduct of such in
their magistracy: it also contains a strong remonstrance against the
practice in prisons of putting the tried and untried culprits together:
the bringing before the Grand Jury causes of a petty nature, and which
therefore should have been tried in inferior courts, is also objected
to.
The militia laws here bear hard upon the Foreigner, towards whom they
are a vexatious tax. A residence in the country of, I believe, only six
months renders him liable to be called out, and enrolled, or to pay a
fine for absence; yet were a war to take place with the government to
which an enrolled stranger is subject, he is sent up the country,
instead of accepting of his military services; as it happened to the
English who were resident here during the last war, to the great
detriment of their affairs. The foreigner of course generally submits to
pay the fine rather than be {174} subject to the demand of a military
duty so unjust towards him; but that the practice of procuring
substitutes, should be gaining ground among the citizens themselves,
proves pretty clearly a falling off from the republican spirit. I have
somewhere met with the remark that the Athenians were so wholly devoted
to public life that they neglected the private virtues: the moderns on
the contrary, and the remark may be applicable equally elsewhere as
here, may be said to neglect their public interests in a constant
attention to their private affairs; when this is the case, parties may
hold intemperate language, journalists may snarl at each other, but all
will not preserve the liberties of a people who have ceased to be true
to themselves, when, from whatever cause, they shall hold back from
their public duties, more especially those which are military; they then
soon sink into effeminacy, lose that manliness of character which such
exercises would give them, and becoming indifferent to all else but
sordid gain, let their liberties sooner or later become the sacrifice to
despotism. A militia may not go through its evolutions so quick and
exact as a standing army--the latter is also a fine spectacle on a
field-day, when the sun shines--it is likewise, it must be confessed,
very enticing to indolence to be able to sit at home and nurse "its
dainty {175} sympathies" while the army is abroad fighting its battles;
but the Republic that would long preserve its freedom, that would truly
enjoy the shade of its own vine and fig-tree, must keep the sword belted
to its own side; must know how to use it, and submit with chearfulness
and energy to its military duties. A standing army and disarmed
population is the awful lever wherewith despotism and crooked policy
have everywhere overturned the temple of liberty.
But whither is fancy leading me to wander? forgetful that I am where
true liberty is unknown, or where the Goddess has only deigned to shed
the rays of her intelligence on the favoured head of a Washington, a
Franklin and a few others; while a spirit totally irreconcileable with
the noble, disinterested, high minded, true republican pervades each
bosom--money--gain--sordid gain is the predominant, almost the sole
passion; scarcely leaving room for vanity; which shews itself not only
in a firm belief and modest assertion that they alone among the nations
of the earth hold the palm in Arts, Arms, and Science, but also in the
important object of decorating the person. Reader--know, that the
tailor, hatter, bootmaker, here give to our modern Republican his rank;
and by the cut of his habiliments is known the circle in which he moves,
and in which he {176} must continue to move. As unbending an order of
aristocracy exists here as in any old court of Europe; and if an
unfortunate individual is known ever to have appeared in an inferior
circle, the ostracism banishes him for ever from the double refined
society of this upper order of store keepers.
_January_ 31st, 1820. Went last evening to attend service at the African
Church: a charity sermon was preached and the whole very decently
conducted. Contemplating however the sable countenances around us, the
observation that the black forms a grade just below the white again
occurred; 'tis true the former seems capable of all the common mental
exertions, so nearly equal with the white man that it must be confessed
he treads close upon his heels, yet notwithstanding, perhaps the result
of a close examination and comparison of their mental faculties might
shew as much difference between them as may be observed in the features
of the countenance. On whichever side the truth of the question may
lie, the general opinion in those States which have formally and
publicly called the men of colour "Men and Brothers" is pretty clearly
shewn in various ways--separate churches--civil disabilities, besides
such common advertisements in the daily papers as the following; which I
copy from the Aurora[61] of Friday, 25th March, 1820:--
{177} BAKER'S