DESCRIPTION OF THE SOIL, MOUNTAINS, AND WOODS OF VALUABLE TIMBER,
AND OTHER TREES: ALSO OF THE BIRDS OF THE WOODS, PECULIAR TO
THE ISLAND.
The Soil of Dominica, in some places, is a light, brown-coloured
mould, that appears to have been washed down from the mountains,
and mixed with decayed branches, and leaves of trees. In the level
country, towards the sea coast, and in many places of the interior
parts, it is a fine, deep, black mould, which is peculiarly adapted
to the cultivation of the sugar cane, coffee, cocoa, and all other
articles of West India produce. The under stratum of the soil is
a yellow, or brick clay, in some parts, in others it is a stiff
tarrace; but it is in most parts very stoney.
The land is in general very productive, especially in the interior
parts, but towards the sea coast, it requires to be frequently
manured; because the surface of it usually opens into large chasms
in dry weather, thereby exposing the soil to the excessive heat
of the sun; so that its vegetative quality can only be restored
by dunging. This, however, is not very easily done by the greater
part of the planters; because they have not in general a sufficient
number of cattle on their plantations, in proportion to the land
under cultivation, of the sugar cane in particular; from whence, in
a great measure, and to the want of negroes, is to be attributed
the small quantity of sugar exported from this settlement to
England.
Several of the mountains of this island are continually burning
with sulphur, of which they emit vast quantities. From these
mountains issue numbers of springs of mineral water, whose virtues
are extolled for the cure of many disorders; in some places the
water is so very hot, as to boil an egg, &c. in less time than
boiling water, and this heat is retained at some distance from its
source.
These sulphureous mountains are certainly among the most wonderful
phænomena of nature, and command our astonishment and admiration.
To see vast tracts of land on fire, whose smoke, like clouds,
stretches far around; brimstone in flames, like streams of water
issuing from the sides of precipices; in the vallies large holes
full of bituminous matter, boiling and bubbling like a caldron;
the earth trembling under the tread, and bursting out with loud
explosions, are objects truly terrific to the beholders; who, on
the spot, are struck with awe and admiration, on viewing such
dreadful works of the Almighty, who causes them to exist, for
purposes only known by him[3].
Others of the mountains are exceedingly large and high, whose
summits, sides and feet are covered with vast tall woods, which
together with the under woods, are so crouded as to be almost
impervious to the eye, and that for several miles around. From the
tops and sides of these descend numberless springs and water-falls,
which form the most delightfully romantic cascades, of fine, cool,
wholesome water, as clear as crystal, excepting in places where it
is tinctured with sulphur.
The woods of Dominica, which constitute nearly two thirds of the
island at present, including the parts that are incapable of
cultivation, on account of steep and rugged mountains, afford
a vast fund of excellent timber: consisting of locus-wood,
bullet-tree, mastic, cinnamon, rose-wood, yellow-sanders,
bastard-mahogany, iron-wood, several species of cedar, and various
other sorts of wood, useful for building houses, vessels and
canoes, for furniture, for dying, and other necessary purposes.
In the woods, an awful, yet pleasing solitariness prevails; but
that which makes them the more agreeably romantic, is the noise
of falling waters, the whistling of the wind among the trees, the
singing and chirping of an innumerable quantity of birds among
the branches, and the uncommon cries of various kinds of harmless
insects, which together with the dark shadiness of the trees, form
a solemn but delightful scene for contemplation.
The trees in the woods are of uncommon height, and by far exceed
in loftiness the tallest trees in England. In this island their
tops seem to touch the clouds, which appear as if skimming swiftly
over their upper branches, and looking up the trees is painful to
the eye. Many of the trees are like wise of enormous girt, and
their spreading boughs extend far around; those of the fig-tree
especially, under whose inviting shade hundreds at a time may
repose themselves, without fear of being wet by the heaviest shower
of rain, or dread of the influence of the scorching sun-beams.
In the woods the trees are, in common, covered with different
foliage, so that it is usual to see one tree dressed out with the
rich liveries of several, all growing in beautiful variety: the
trunk and branches, covered with ivy and other plants, growing on
them like house-leeks.
That the leaves of different trees should be found on one tree,
is an object worthy of speculation; but yet, in my opinion, is no
other way to be accounted for, than by supposing that the seeds of
different trees, being scattered by the wind, fall into the heart
of the same plant, like house-leeks, and are thus incorporated into
the tree on which they are seen growing.
The different species of ivy, or rather wild vines, in the woods,
grow to a great size, and have the appearance of so many cords,
or thick ropes, fastened to the branches. Some of these are
very tough, strong, and useful; and hoops, baskets, and other
wicker utensils are made of them: also walking-sticks, called
supple-jacks, which, if cut in the proper season, are very durable,
and so pliant, that both ends may be bent together without
breaking them. These being in general regularly knotted, and of
a good polish, are much admired for walking-sticks, or to use on
horseback instead of whips; for both which purposes many of them
are frequently sent to England, where they are well known.
Among other valuable trees in the woods of Dominica is the
gum-tree, which yields great quantities of that article. The
circumference of the body of this tree is generally very great,
and its timber is, on that account, made into canoes; which is
done by digging or burning out the inside, and shaping the log
into form. The gum falls from the body and branches of the tree
in great quantities, in substance like white wax, and was very
serviceable to the planters of that island, during the time it was
in possession of the French last war; this gum being used instead
of oil, which could not then be had, to burn in lamps in the
boiling houses when making sugar. The Romish priests of this island
use it likewise in their censers at funerals, and other ceremonies
of their church, it having a very aromatic smell when burning;
and it is supposed to contain virtues which might be valuable in
medicines, was it better known.
The timber also of this tree, as well as that of several others
in the woods, makes good shingles for covering of houses, and was
very serviceable for making staves for sugar and coffee casks, at
the time the Americans refused supplying the English colonies with
them. Several fine sloops and schooners have likewise been built of
the timber of this island; and the vessels that have been built of
it are esteemed preferable, both for strength and durability, to
others built of timber imported from North America.
Cabbage trees are in great plenty in Dominica, and are very
serviceable on the plantations, as their trunks sawed, or split,
make good laths or rails for cattle-pens, being very durable: the
branches and leaves are used for thatching of houses; and the
cabbage part of them is excellent eating. These trees are of great
height, have much the appearance of the cocoa-nut tree, and bear a
berry much like a date. The cabbage part is in the top, whence it
is taken after the tree is cut down; and when that part is boiled
it is equally as good, and tastes much like the bottom part of an
artichoke. It also makes a very good pickle, some of which is often
sent to England as presents.
The woods of Dominica abound with wild pigeons, mountain doves,
ring-neck doves, ground doves, partridges, mackaws, parrots, hawks,
diablotins, and a variety of singing and other small birds; among
which is the mountain whistler, the thrush, and wren: from the
singing, whistling, and chirping of which, the woods resound in a
most delightful manner.
The wild pigeon is of the size of the common house pigeon, has a
red bill and legs, and its feathers are of a dark blue, tinged with
a gold colour. They build on the tops of the highest trees, lay
only two eggs at a sitting, but hatch several times in the season,
which is from February to August. Their flesh is of a dark colour,
and is very fat when they are in season, which is after their
breeding time is over, when it has a most delicious flavour, and is
greatly relished.
The mountain dove is also nearly the size of a house pigeon, has
the same red-coloured bill and legs, but its feathers are of a
brown colour. It differs but little from the ring-neck dove, being
only a size larger, and builds its nest on trees in the mountains,
or at the sides of steep precipices, where it makes a pleasing,
loud, plaintive noise. The ring-neck dove builds in coverts in the
woods, as does also the partridge, which is likewise a species of
the dove kind, but from its great resemblance, it is called the
pieddrié by the French. The flesh of the three kinds is much liked,
but has a bitter taste, as has that of most other birds of the
country, owing to the berries they feed on; this taste, though at
first disagreeable, is soon relished by most people, and they are
reckoned very wholesome. The ground dove is not much bigger than a
lark when stripped of its feathers, which are of a brown colour.
It has a red bill and legs, makes a pleasing plaintive noise, and
when killed in season its flesh is very fat, and of a delicious
flavour; for which reason it is generally called the West-India
ortolon.
The mackaw is of the parrot kind, but larger than the common
parrot, and makes a more disagreeable, harsh noise. They are in
great plenty, as are also parrots in this island; have both of them
a delightful green and yellow plumage, with a scarlet-coloured
fleshy substance from the ears to the root of the bill, of which
colour is likewise the chief feathers of their wings and tails.
They breed on the tops of the highest trees, where they feed on the
berries in great numbers together; and are easily discovered by
their loud chattering noise, which at a distance resembles human
voices. The mackaws cannot be taught to articulate words; but the
parrots of this country may, by taking pains with them when caught
young. The flesh of both is eat, but being very fat, it wastes
in roasting, and eats dry and insipid; for which reason, they are
chiefly used to make soup of, which is accounted very nutritive.
The hawks are of two kinds, the one of the largest size of those
species, the other that of the small sort in England. They are both
very ferocious, commit great depredations among the other birds in
the woods, and on the plantations often destroy fowls and house
pigeons.
The diablotin, so called by the French, from its uncommonly ugly
appearance, is nearly the size of a duck, and is web-footed. It
has a big round head, crooked bill like a hawk, and large full
eyes like an owl. Its head, part of the neck, chief feathers of
the wings and tail, are black; the other parts of its body are
covered with a milk-white fine down; and its whole appearance
is perfectly singular. They feed on fish, flying in great flocks
to the sea side in the night-time; and in their flight make a
disagreeable loud noise like owls: which bird they also resemble,
by their dislike of making their appearance in the day-time, when
they are hid in holes in the mountains, where they are easily
caught. This is done by stopping up some of the holes, which lead
to their hiding places, and placing empty bags over the rest, which
communicate under-ground with those stopped: the birds at their
usual time of going forth to seek their food in the night-time,
finding their passage impeded, make to the holes covered with
the bags; into which entering, they are immediately caught; and
great numbers of them taken in that manner in a short time. The
flesh of the diablotin is much admired by the French, who used
formerly to export great quantities of them salted, to Martinique
and other French islands; but the traffic was put a stop to by
the Legislature of Dominica, who, by an Act made for apprehending
runaway negroes, prohibited the taking of those birds: as before
that time, the runaways being numerous in the woods, furnished
great quantities of them, for which they had in return, from some
ill-disposed white people, muskets, powder, and balls; which they
made use of in murdering the English inhabitants on the plantations.
The mountain whistler is of the size of an English lark, and is
remarkable only for its loud charming whistle, which resembles the
human voice in the melodious notes; but which this bird varies in a
most astonishing manner.
The thrush is nearly the size of that in England, and has much
the same kind of whistle. The wren is also of the size and
figure of those in England, and sings delightfully, especially
early in the morning, and in the evening when other birds are at
roost: for which reason it is by some, called the nightingale.
What is remarkable of the singing birds of this country is, that
they lose their singing faculties when taken, pine away and die,
notwithstanding the greatest attention is paid to them.
There are also great numbers of owls in the woods of this island,
and they make a most hideous, disagreeable noise in the night-time.
Swallows and bats are here likewise in great plenty; the latter
breeding in hollow trees and in old houses; but it has not yet
been discovered where the swallows breed, or retire to; yet they
are frequently seen flying in great flocks during the wet season,
and their appearance is reckoned a sure token of approaching rainy
weather.
Dominica is visited in the hurricane months by wild ducks, curlews,
plovers, and snipes; but not in such numbers at a time, as they
are usually seen in some West India islands, owing to there being
very few spots of stagnated water in this island, and to the great
quantity of land in it still covered with woods.
Shortly after the reduction of this island by the French last war,
the Marquis Duchilleau, then Governor, prohibited the killing
of game during the breeding season. This prohibition has since
been made into a law, by the English Legislature of Dominica,
as a circumstance highly necessary; not only to prevent the
runaway negroes from trafficking with that commodity for arms and
ammunition, but also to preserve the game, which would probably
have become extinct, if an unlimitted power of destroying them had
not been restrained.
FOOTNOTES:
[3] In places where these sulphureous mountains are situated,
there is no possibility of preserving articles of silver in their
clean bright order, as they turn black and are not fit for use,
unless cleared from a moisture that adheres to them. This is also
perceptible to persons having money in their pockets, buckles or
buttons on their cloaths made of that metal; which will immediately
on their coming thither turn black, from the powerfully quick
effect of the sulphur on them.