THE
HISTORY
OF THE
ISLAND OF DOMINICA.
CONTAINING
A DESCRIPTION OF ITS SITUATION, EXTENT,
CLIMATE, MOUNTAINS, RIVERS,
NATURAL PRODUCTIONS, &c. &c.
TOGETHER WITH
AN ACCOUNT OF THE CIVIL GOVERNMENT, TRADE, LAWS,
CUSTOMS, AND MANNERS OF THE DIFFERENT INHABITANTS
OF THAT ISLAND. ITS CONQUEST
BY THE FRENCH, AND RESTORATION
TO THE BRITISH DOMINIONS.
By THOMAS ATWOOD.
LONDON:
PRINTED FOR J. JOHNSON, NO. 72, ST. PAUL’S CHURCHYARD.
M DCC XCI.
INTRODUCTION.
It is greatly to be lamented, that although the island of Dominica
is so very capable of being rendered one of the chief, if not the
best, the English have in the West Indies; yet, from a want of
knowledge of its importance, or inattention, it is at this time
almost as much unsettled, as when it was ceded to Great Britain,
near thirty years ago.
This is the more remarkable, from the great consequence the
possession of it is to the English, in case of a rupture with
France, it being the key of the British dominions in that part
of the world, and from its situation between the two principal
settlements of the French, Martinique and Guadeloupe, it is the
only place in the West Indies, by which there is a possibility for
Great Britain to maintain the sovereignty of those seas.
It has moreover many conveniences for the service of both an army
and fleet, which few other West India islands can boast; and was
it to be well settled with British subjects, would be of material
assistance to our other possessions, by furnishing them with many
articles of which they very often are greatly in need.
For the purpose of bringing forth to view these capabilities of
Dominica, the following history of that island is submitted to the
candid perusal of a generous public by the author; whose chief
inducement for writing it, was his hope, that it might be some
small means of service to a country, in which he has spent several
years of his life, and the prosperity of which, it is his ardent
wish to see speedily promoted.
The history of distant settlements belonging to Great Britain, it
is presumed, cannot fail of being acceptable to every Englishman
who wishes well to his country; and however deficient this essay of
his may be, in point of erudition, correctness, or correspondent
circumstances, yet, from its being the first on the subject, the
author hopes it may meet with a favourable reception.
It falls not within the compass of this work to enter into details
of acts of the legislature, the conduct of governors, or of
individuals of that island; these he leaves for a more extensive
work, or for abler pens to record; and if what is here submitted
to public perusal serve in the least to promote the welfare of
the present and future inhabitants of Dominica, and thereby the
interests of the British nation at large, the purpose of the author
by this publication will be fully answered.
London, May 1791.
CONTENTS.
CHAP. I.
_Description of the island, its situation, extent, climate,
and other subjects; together with an account of
the conquest of it, its cession to Great Britain, and the disposal
of the lands by the crown._ Page 1
CHAP. II.
_Description of the soil, mountains, and woods; of valuable timber,
and other trees; also of the birds of the woods peculiar
to the island._ 17
CHAP. III.
_Of the rivers and lakes in the island, river and fresh water
fish, also of sea fish, land crabs, and a description of the native
quadruped, and other animals._ 35
CHAP. IV.
_Of the most remarkable reptiles and insects of the island, their
venomous and other qualities, with remarks._ 51
CHAP. V.
_An account of the different articles of West India produce raised
in the island; the number of sugar and coffee plantations
therein, with remarks._ 72
CHAP. VI.
_Names and descriptions of particular West India fruits which
grow in the island; also of European and American fruits,
herbs, vegetables, and flowers; with observations on their
properties, &c._ 86
CHAP. VII.
_Of the trade of the island, previous to its reduction by the
French last war, with a relation of that circumstance; and
the articles of capitulation to which it surrendered._ 104
CHAP. VIII.
_Of the government of the island under the French, with a relation
of the distressed situation of the English inhabitants, until
its restoration to Great Britain; an account of that event,
and several other subjects._ 138
CHAP. IX.
_An account of the division of the island into parishes and towns,
with a description of its capital, the principal buildings,
fortifications, and harbour; together with observations on
Prince Rupert’s Bay, and the grand Savannah in that
island._ 171
CHAP. X.
_The civil government, officers, courts, and other subjects relative
to them; also a description of the militia of that island._ 195
CHAP. XI.
_Description of the white inhabitants, free people of colour, and
native Indians of the island; their manners and customs,
with observations._ 208
CHAP. XII.
_Of the negro slaves of this island, their rebellion and reduction,
the usage, manners, customs, and characters of these people
in general in the West Indies._ 224
CHAP. XIII.
_Of the present trade of the island, and the free port of Roseau,
with remarks. Conclusion._ 276
THE
HISTORY
OF THE
ISLAND OF DOMINICA.
CHAPTER I.
DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLAND, ITS SITUATION, EXTENT, CLIMATE AND
OTHER SUBJECTS; TOGETHER WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE CONQUEST OF IT,
ITS CESSION TO GREAT BRITAIN, AND THE DISPOSAL OF THE LANDS BY
THE CROWN.
The island of Dominica is situated in 15 degrees, 25 minutes, north
latitude; 61 degrees, 15 minutes, west longitude from London; and
43 degrees, 40 minutes, from Ferro.
The discovery of this Island was claimed by the three kingdoms, of
England, France, and Spain; but the right of possession remained
undecided, and Dominica was considered as a neutral island, by
three Crowns; till the year 1759, when, by conquest, it fell under
the dominion of Great Britain; and was afterwards ceded to England,
by the treaty of peace concluded at Paris, in February 1763.
On the cession of the island to the English, Commissioners were
appointed under the Great Seal, and sent out there with authority,
to sell and dispose of the lands by public sale, to English
subjects, in allotments. “Of not more than one hundred acres of
such land as was cleared; and not exceeding three hundred acres in
woods, to any one person, who should be the best bidder for the
same.” These allotments were disposed of for the benefit of the
Crown, and were confirmed to the purchaser, by grants, under the
Great Seal of England; with conditions in each grant, “That every
purchaser should pay down twenty per cent of the whole purchase
money, together with sixpence sterling per acre, for the expence of
surveying the land; and that, the remainder of the purchase money
should be secured by bonds; to be paid by equal installments, in
the space of five years, next after the date of the grant. That,
each purchaser should keep on the lands so by him purchased, one
white man, or two white women for every hundred acres of land, as
it became cleared; for the purpose of cultivating the same. Or in
default thereof, or non payment of the remainder of the purchase
money, the lands were to be forfeited to his Majesty, his heirs and
successors.”
The Commissioners were also impowered to execute leases to the
French inhabitants, of such lands as were found in their possession
at the time of the surrender of the island; and which lands were
thus leased to those inhabitants, who were desirous of keeping
them in possession, on consideration of their taking the oaths of
allegiance to his Britannic Majesty.
These leases were executed for a term, not less than seven, some
fourteen, and others for forty years absolute; renewable at the
time limitted for the expiration of the same. With conditions in
every lease, “That the possessor, his heirs or assigns, should pay
to his Majesty, his heirs or successors, the sum of two shillings
sterling per annum, for every acre of land, of which the lease
should consist.” “And, that they should not sell or dispose of
their lands, without the consent and approbation of the Governor,
or Commander in chief of that island, for the time being.”
The Commissioners were likewise impowered to make grants, under the
Great Seal, of lots to poor settlers; to such English subjects, as
should be deemed fit objects of his Majesty’s bounty; in allotments
of not more than thirty acres of land, to any one person. With
authority also to the said Commissioners, to reserve and keep such
lands, in the most convenient parts of the island as they should
think proper for fortifications, and the use of his Majesty’s army,
and navy. Together with a boundary of fifty feet from the sea
shore, round the whole island; and reserving all mines, of gold and
silver, which might thereafter be discovered there, for the use of
his Majesty, his heirs and successors[1].
This island is 29 miles in length, and 16 miles in breadth, but in
some parts it is broader, being of a very irregular figure. It is
rugged and mountainous in some parts; but spacious plains, and fine
extensive vallies are interspersed throughout the island, which are
in general very productive.
The climate of this country is hot at times, in places on the sea
coast, that are much sheltered by mountains; but in the open parts
of the island, at no great distance from the sea shore, it is
moderately cool at most times, and greatly resembles the climate
of England, in summer. This is occasioned by the almost constant
breezes blowing from the mountains, which moderating the heat,
render it more supportable than it is, in those islands of the West
Indies that are more level. In the interior mountainous parts, it
is perfectly cool in general; owing to the vast quantity of tall
woods, and the heavy rains which fall in those places, in some part
or other almost every day; which render it so cold, in the night
especially, that people who reside there are obliged to use woollen
coverings on their beds, in the same quantity as in winter time in
England[2].
The climate is, however, reckoned very wholesome, especially in
those places where invalids usually go for the recovery of their
health, which is frequently re-established by a few weeks residence
there. Besides, a good breeze generally blows from the mountains
most part of the day, which greatly moderates the heat on the sea
coast; and persons who live there temperately are seldom afflicted
with the disorders, incident to most other West India islands.
The wet season in this country commonly sets in about the end of
August, and continues till about the beginning of January, but
with frequent intervals of fine weather. The severity of the rainy
season, is usually in the months of September and October, when
very heavy continual rain falls for days together; nay, it has
been known to fall there for two or three weeks at a time, with
very little intermission. The island, however, is seldom without
rain, in some part or other; and often during a promising day, the
disappointed traveller meets with such sudden, and heavy showers,
that in an instant wet him to the skin, nor is an umbrella or great
coat of much service, the rain falling in such large drops, and
often accompanied with such severe gusts of wind, that the umbrella
is rather an inconvenience; but let him be careful to change his
wet cloaths as soon as possible, for inconsideration, in this
respect, has proved fatal to many in this climate.
When the rains are violent and of long continuance, they do great
mischief in the island, among the plantations; carrying away large
tracts of land with coffee, plantain trees, sugar canes, and ground
provisions; which are all hurried into the sea. In the towns also,
they often do much damage, causing the rivers to overflow their
banks, or breaking out in fresh places, carry away houses, or
whatever else stands in the way of these dreadful torrents.
Thunder and lightening is seldom so severe in Dominica, or does
so much damage there as in many other parts of the West Indies;
although there have been some instances of lightening striking
vessels in the road, damaging houses and killing people; but such
instances are very rare.
Nor are earthquakes, those alarming phænomena of nature, so
frequent, or so destructive in this, as in many other West India
islands; yet, it is asserted by some of the first inhabitants,
that earthquakes happened here formerly very frequently; especially
soon after the English first took possession of the country; when
they were felt severely, several times in a day, for the space of
some weeks together, which so terrified the inhabitants, that they
were on the point of quitting the place, but happily they soon
subsided. These people say likewise, that although no material
damage happened at that time, yet that the island was split in
several places; and in particular, a large chasm was made in a
mountain there called Demoulins, so very deep, that though they
attempted with several coils of cordage spliced together, yet they
were unable to fathom it. There is, however, no appearance left of
that remarkable circumstance, which yet by no means contradicts the
veracity of their report.
Hurricanes, those dreadful scourges of the West Indies, are seldom
very severe in Dominica; and in comparison with the mischief they
generally do in other islands, may more properly be termed only
heavy gusts of wind, especially when compared with the destruction
done by that in the Leward islands the first of September, 1772;
the most dreadful one that for some time has been felt in the West
Indies. In the hurricane season, the damage received in Dominica
is principally occasioned by the very heavy rains, or by the sea,
which sometimes in those seasons tumbles into the bays, especially
that of Roseau, in a very frightful manner; and making on the
shore, overwhelms the vessels that unfortunately happen to be there
at anchor; and sweeps away the houses, or whatever else is in the
way of its destructive force.
A particular circumstance of this kind, which happened there the
last day of September, 1780, was the most remarkable that has
occurred in this island, in the memory of the oldest inhabitant,
and did the most mischief. It did considerable damage among the
plantations, and in Roseau destroyed several houses on the bay, and
several vessels in the road.
The effects of these hurricanes in the West Indies are truly
astonishing; for the wind, with a fury hardly credible, blowing
from different points at one and the same instant, carries all
before it; the rain is as it were taken out of the sea, and hurled
on the land in clouds; which from not having time to exhale, is as
salt as the briny element from which it was driven; and falls in
drops as large as hail stones, affecting the hands and naked face,
in the same manner as a severe hail storm; the whole of the scene
is truly alarming and beyond description dreadful.
The mornings and evenings in Dominica are in general remarkably
pleasant and cool; that is to say, from day break till eight
o’clock in the morning, and between five and six o’clock till bed
time in the evening. Early in the morning is the time, when those
who can afford it, and wish to preserve their healths, will do
well to employ their leisure time till breakfast, either riding on
horseback, or taking a walk, to enjoy the cool, enlivening breezes.
Bathing, previous to these exercises, is also the best preservative
of health, and here people have the opportunity of doing it either
in the rivers or in the sea.
Frequently bathing in cold water is productive of much benefit to
persons in warm climates; as, exclusive of that which arises from
cleanliness, so necessary in hot countries, it braces the nerves,
and keeps the body refreshingly cool the whole day after. By taking
a ride there on horseback, a person in the space of half an hour
is transported from an uncomfortable warm air on the sea coast, to
a pleasantly cool retreat in the interior parts of the country;
which, in an evening especially, he may leisurely enjoy, till
disposed to return to town; when the breezes, by that time set in
to blow from the mountains, permit him to sleep the remainder of
the night in cool tranquillity.
The taking a morning or evening’s walk in this island, by the sides
of the rivers, whose glassy surface glides swiftly on, or murmuring
water-falls foam to the view, is very pleasing. Does fancy lead
him to enjoy the scene, a mile or two, he still finds ample
amusement. Viewing the rapid streams, he sees the silvered fry,
sporting on its surface, in astonishing numbers. The serpentine
windings of the rivers in some parts; in others, the waters wide,
deep, and silently flowing along; and in many places, numberless
falls of water, tumbling down the sides of steep precipices, or
rushing over the tops of huge stones in the beds of the rivers,
at once charm both the sight and hearing. Is he fond of the
delightful study of botany; here an extensive field is open for his
speculation, and numberless curious shrubs, plants, and flowers,
that grow spontaneously, afford him ample scope for enquiry?
Rising early in a morning in this country, you have the delightful
pleasure of exploring the wonders of the heavens; the morning star,
with a rapidity that exceeds all bounds of conception, running
its daily course; the sun emerging from the sea, all glorious
to behold; and in the words of the Psalmist, “Coming forth like
a bridegroom out of his chamber;” and all the lesser planets
twinkling into obscurity. In the evening in Dominica, is the most
amazingly glorious scenery that can possibly be imagined; the
heavens bespangled with innumerable stars, which the dense climate
of Europe hides from mortal sight, or which are but barely to be
distinguished, are in this island open to full view; and the lovers
of astronomy have there an opportunity to make new discoveries in
that science.
In the evenings, although the air is cool, yet it is not
accompanied by those noxious vapours, so remarkable for their
dangerous effects in some parts of the West Indies; so that it is
not uncommon for people in this Island to sit whole evenings in the
open air, without any detriment to their healths.
FOOTNOTES:
[1] It is the opinion of many people, that there are mines of both
those metals in this island; particularly of silver; pieces of
silver ore having been found in the interior N. E. part.
[2] In the interior parts of this island, it is impossible to
preserve salt in its proper state; for as soon as it is brought
thither, it dissolves into a thick liquid, from the remarkable
dampness of the air. This dampness is also prejudicial to articles
of furniture that are glued, which frequently, after a long
succession of rain, will fall to pieces.