OF THE RIVERS AND LAKES IN THE ISLAND, RIVER AND FRESH WATER
FISH, ALSO OF SEA FISH, LAND CRABS, AND A DESCRIPTION OF THE
NATIVE QUADRUPED, AND OTHER ANIMALS.
Dominica is well watered, there being upwards of thirty fine rivers
in the island, besides great numbers of rivulets of excellent fresh
water, but none of the rivers are navigable; yet, in the rainy
season, they are sometimes very deep and rapid, coming down often
in a frightful manner, carrying away considerable tracks of land,
large trees, huge stones, and sometimes houses, into the sea.
The rivers and rivulets are plentifully stocked with excellent
fish; the principal of which are, mullets, crocroes, pike,
eels, suck-fish, and cray-fish, with which the tables of the
inhabitants, especially those on the plantations, are well
furnished; and much amusement is afforded to good anglers.
The mullet is of the shape of the sea-fish of the same name, and is
often caught in the rivers of half a pound or more in weight; they
are very fat and full of roe when in season, and are a great dainty.
The crocroe is an excellent fresh water fish, much of the shape of
a trout, excepting the head, which in the crocroe is more round.
Of these are caught, at times, some that will weigh from five to
six, and usually from one to two pounds. The mullet and crocroe
are generally caught with the hook and line, but sometimes they
and other river fish are taken in the night-time by negroes, who,
with a lighted torch made of a wood called “Bois chandélle,” which
burns a long time, and which being held over the water, the fish,
attracted by the light, swim towards it on the surface, when they
are chopped with cutlasses, and great quantities sometimes taken in
that manner.
The pike is a rare fish, being found in one or two particular
rivers only: they are sometimes caught of eight or ten pounds in
weight, but they are not much esteemed, being reckoned unwholesome
eating, as are also the different kinds of mud-fish, which are in
great plenty in this island.
The eel is of the silver kind, and is an excellent fish, but are
to be had in no great abundance. Of them are often caught some
that will measure from two to three feet in length, and of a
considerable thickness; when they are much esteemed, being very
fat, and of a delicious flavour.
The suck-fish is small, but a very great dainty, and is remarkable
for having a fleshy substance projecting from its navel, like the
mouth of a purse, which has the faculty of suction, and by which
the fish fastens itself so strongly to the stones in the rivers,
that it is difficult to take them with the hook and line, to which
they are often destructive: for this reason they are mostly caught
with the hands groping among the stones; in which manner these fish
are taken in great plenty by those who are dextrous at that way of
fishing.
The cray-fish are of two kinds, the one approaching the size of
the common lobster, the other that of the prawn. The first is much
admired, but the latter having a rank, muddy taste, is not in much
esteem.
But the chief dainty among the fresh-water fish in Dominica is the
young frey, with which the rivers there are filled twice or thrice
every year, and which are called by the French “Tréz tréz.” These
consist of various kinds of sea-fish just spawned, and with which
that element swarms, for some miles distance from the shore, in
numbers truly astonishing. These little creatures come into the
rivers like a living stream, and in a short time swim two or three
miles to an amazing height up the country. This they perform in
a wonderful manner, skipping over such rapid streams, as repel
their weak endeavours, from rock to rock, the surfaces of which
are covered with them: or, seeking the smoothly gliding stream at
the side of the banks, by degrees ascend the highest parts of the
rivers.
The first day of the appearance of these frey in the rivers
they are transparent and clear as crystal, so that every bone
in them may be counted, and the movement of their vitals can be
plainly discerned. The second day after, they lose much of that
transparency; and the third or fourth day, it is wholly lost by
the nutriment which they feed on. They are caught in baskets, in
which is put a tablecloth or sheet, and sinking the basket with
stones, vast quantities are taken at a time. They are fried in a
batter made of flour and milk, or stewed with herbs and spice. They
are excellent food cooked either way.
Almost in the centre of the island, on the top of a very high
mountain, surrounded by others above it, is a large natural pond,
or rather lake of fresh water, which is also well stocked with fine
fish, and it is said, is in some places unfathomable. It covers a
space of some acres, spreads into three distinct branches, and has
a very wonderful appearance in point of situation: it is about six
miles distant from the town of Roseau, and great part of the road
to it is a steep ascent. On first beholding this lake, a person
becomes, as it were, rivetted for a time to the spot, with silent
awe and admiration, at viewing so vast a body of water collected at
such a height.
Dominica is likewise well supplied with excellent sea-fish; and the
inhabitants have the advantage of procuring their fish almost as
soon as caught, and often buy them alive in the market. Among the
chief of the sea-fish are, groupers, cavallies, snappers, silks,
baracutas, king-fish, Spanish mackrel, jacks, and sprats; the
shell-fish are, lobsters, conks, wilks, and crabs; all which are
so well known, as to render any description of them needless. Some
few turtles are also caught at the windward part of the island; but
this article is mostly brought hither from the Spanish islands.
This island is also remarkable for land-crabs, of which there are
three sorts, white, black, and red. The first are distinguishable
only for their poisonous quality, which they acquire by feeding
on the blossoms and leaves of the mahaut, a tree which gives name
to a part of the island where it grows especially, and of which it
is necessary to give first a description. This tree is of the cork
kind, and grows spontaneously in watery places, or at the sides of
rivers, and renders the water and air near them very unwholesome.
They are about the size in common of the English oak-trees, and
are almost continually in blossom; which is of a sickly yellow
colour, and has much the appearance of the poppy blossom, but is
rather larger. The body, branches, leaves, and blossoms of the
mahaut-tree, contain a milky juice, which is a most subtle poison
to every creature but the crabs who taste it; and to them it gives
the same deadly quality if eaten, as has been fatally experienced
by several persons. Yet notwithstanding their bad qualities, these
trees are very serviceable, as the bark of them stripped off makes
good ropes, nearly as strong as those made of hemp; and the body
and branches make floats for seins, or fishing-nets, equal to any
made of cork, and as durable.
The black crabs are excellent, and safe eating, if caught in places
where the Mahaut tree does not grow; particularly those brought
from a part of the island, called “Souffriér;” where they are to
be had nearly as large as sea crabs, and in great plenty. They are
extremely fat when in season; and the females are full of a rich
glutinous substance, called the eggs, which is perfectly delicious.
The red crabs are as small as the common sort of crabs in England,
but are by far preferable to them; the females being full of the
same rich glutinous substance as the black sort, when in season;
at which time, the red crabs make their appearance in astonishing
numbers: so that it is common for a person on horseback, to
trample them under his horse’s feet; and it is diverting to hear
the rustling they make among the leaves on the ground, to get out
of the way. Of these, and the black sort, is made a favourite dish,
called there, pepper pot; which is made of crabs picked from the
shells, stewed with Indian cale, and pods of Guinea pepper, and eat
with a pudding made of Indian corn flour, or rice; this dish is
esteemed by most of the inhabitants.
Some people have crab pens, or places made like fowl coops, for
the purpose of keeping them alive, for some time after they are
caught; feeding them with potatoe vines, Indian corn, herbage and
water. This method is certainly the best to prevent the danger to
be apprehended from eating them; as, notwithstanding the greatest
caution in procuring them from particular places only, they have
proved fatal, by being imprudently eaten as soon as they were
caught.
The land crabs are particularly destructive to sugar plantations,
when they are numerous, as they are on some estates near the sea;
eating off the buds of the newly planted canes, of which they are
very fond; as they are also of the Indian corn just sprouted, of
which they devour both blade and root. For this there is no remedy,
but immediately replanting and catching as many of them as you can;
for to attempt to stop up their holes, which are numerous, as those
of the mole; or to poison them, would be vain.
There are no quadrupeds, natives of Dominica, except the Indian
coney, which is nearly the size of a rabbit when full grown. This
animal is very singular; its head, ears, eyes, nose, mouth, and
teeth, being exactly like those of a rat; and its body and legs
like those of a hog; the latter in particular, being hoofed like
that animal. It has only a stump of a tail, which appears as if it
was cut, but it is naturally so; and it is covered with long brown
hair like hog’s bristles, which it erects in the same manner when
angry. It springs on its hind legs like a rabbit, and runs with
great speed when pursued, making a noise like a Guinea pig.
These animals do much mischief among the ground provisions; which
they root up in great abundance; feeding in herds, in the mornings
and evenings, and are difficult to be shot, but are easily taken
by dogs, or traps. Their flesh is not much admired for eating, it
being dry, and in general rank; but to get rid of this taste, those
who are fond of eating them, bury the dead animal in the ground for
two or three hours previous to cooking it, which takes it off. They
are sometimes kept alive as curiosities, and are soon tamed; but
their urine is very offensive.
There were formerly wild goats and hogs in the woods of this
country; but they became so by being let free on the plantations.
There are, however, very few, if any, at present, having been
mostly, if not entirely, destroyed by the runaway negroes. The wild
hogs were very dangerous when attacked, but their flesh delicious,
owing to the vast quantity and goodness of the wild yams, and other
provisions, on which they lived, and which grow spontaneously in
the woods.
The several species of four-footed animals which breed in Dominica
are, horses, horned cattle, sheep, hogs, goats, rabbits, and Guinea
pigs. The poultry are, geese, ducks, turkies, dunghill fowls,
Guinea fowls, and house pigeons.
There are but few horses bred here; and they are no way remarkable,
either for strength, beauty, or spirit; but are rather small and
unsightly. This proceeds entirely from the want of good breeding
mares and stallions, with proper persons competent in the knowledge
of breeding and taking care of those useful animals; as the horses
brought from England, America, and the other islands, thrive
extremely well here.
The present pastures in this island are by no means extensive,
although very good for cattle; consequently, there are but few
of them. But those that are bred here are as strong, breed as
well, and are as fine looking creatures, as in any part of the
West-Indies.
Nor are sheep or goats in any great numbers in Dominica; but those
of both species breed as well here as in any other island: and
when killed for market, their flesh is tender, fat, and juicy,
equalling in flavour that of venison. What is remarkable of the
sheep in particular, is, that they retain their wool in this island
much longer than in most other parts of the West Indies, where
they shed their fleecy coats very soon after being brought to that
climate, which causes them to change into fine long hair, as in
goats.
Hogs are in tolerable plenty in the island, and may be raised in
great abundance, the country being very favourable for breeding
them, as it affords plenty of proper provisions. Their flesh is
very white, firm, and fat, and of a delicious flavour, especially
those raised on the plantations; but in the towns, where the hogs
are suffered to go at large, and fed on any filth that falls in
their way, their flesh is not so good.
Rabbits, Guinea pigs, and the different species of poultry, breed
extremely well in Dominica, and are in as great perfection there as
in any other part of the world.