As my journey was ostensibly only to Iceland, and as I only paid a flying
visit to this portion of Scandinavia, my readers will pardon me if I
treat it briefly. This portion of Europe has been so frequently and so
excellently described by other travellers, that my observations would be
of little importance.
I remained in Stockholm six days, and made as good use of my time as I
could. The town is situated on the shores of the Baltic Sea and the
Malar lake. These two waters are connected by a short canal, on whose
shores the most delightful houses are erected.
[Picture: Stockholm]
My first visit was to the beautiful church of Ritterholm, which is used
more for a cemetery and an armory than for a place of worship. The
vaults serve as burial-places for the kings, and their monuments are
erected in the side-chapels. On each side of the nave of the church are
placed effigies of armed knights on horseback, whose armour belonged to
the former kings of Sweden. The walls and angles of the church are
profusely decorated with flags and standards, said to number five
thousand. In addition to this, the keys of conquered towns and
fortresses hang along the side-walls, and drums are piled upon the floor;
trophies taken from different nations with which Sweden has been at war.
Besides these curiosities, several coats of armour and garments of
Swedish regents are displayed behind glass-cases in the side-chapels.
Among them, the dress which Charles XII. wore on the day of his death,
and his hat perforated by a ball, interested me most. His riding-boots
stand on the ground beside it. The modern dress and hat, embroidered
with gold and ornamented with feathers, of the last king, the founder of
the new dynasty, is not less interesting, partly perhaps from the great
contrast.
The church of St. Nicholas stands on the same side of the canal, and is
one of the finest Protestant churches I had seen; it is very evident that
it was built in Catholic times, and that its former decorations have been
allowed to remain. It contains several large and small oil-paintings,
some ancient and some modern monuments, and a profusion of gilding. The
organ is fine and large; flanking the entrance of the church are
beautiful reliefs, hewn in stone; and above it, carved in wood, a statue
of the archangel Michael, larger than life, sitting on horseback on a
bridge, in the act of killing the dragon.
Near the church is situated the royal palace, which needs a more fluent
pen than mine to describe it. It would fill a volume were I to enumerate
and describe the treasures, curiosities, and beauties of its
construction, or its interior arrangement; I can only say that I never
saw any thing to equal it, except the royal palace of Naples. Such an
edifice is the more surprising in the north, and in a country which has
never been overstocked with wealth.
The church of Shifferholm is remarkable only for its position and its
temple-like form; it stands on the ledge of a rock facing the royal
palace, on the opposite shore of the same indentation of the Baltic. A
long bridge of boats leads from the one to the other.
The church of St. Catharine is large and beautiful. In an outer angle of
the church is shewn the stone on which one of the brothers Sturre was
beheaded. {53}
On the Ritterplatz stands the Ritterhouse, a very fine palace; also the
old royal palace, and several other royal and private mansions; but they
are not nearly so numerous nor so fine as in Copenhagen, and the streets
and squares also cannot be compared with those of the capital of Denmark.
The finest prospect is from a hill in one of the suburbs called the Great
Mosbecken; it affords a magnificent view of the sea and the lake, of the
town and its suburbs, as far as the points of the mountains, and of the
lovely country-houses which border the shores of lake and sea. The town
and its environs are so interspersed with islets and rocks, that these
seem to be part of the town; and this gives Stockholm such a curious
appearance, that I can compare it to no other city I have seen. Wooded
hills and naked rocks prolong the view, and their ridges extend into the
far distance; while level fields and lawns take up but a very small
proportion of the magnificent scenery.
On descending from this hill the traveller should not fail to go to
Sodermalm, and to inspect the immense iron-stores, where iron is heaped
up in countless bars. The corn-market of Stockholm is insignificant.
The principal buildings besides those already enumerated are, the bank,
the mint, the guard-house, the palace of the crown-prince, the theatre,
&c. The latter is interesting, partly because Gustavus III. was shot in
it. He fell on the stage, while a grand masquerade was taking place, for
which the theatre had been changed into a ball-room. The king was shot
by a mask, and died in a few hours.
There is not a representation in the theatre every night; and on the one
evening of performance during my visit a festival was to be celebrated in
the hall of antiquities. The esteemed artist Vogelberg, a native of
Sweden, had beautifully sculptured the three heathen gods, Thor, Balder,
and Odin, in colossal size, and brought them over from Rome. The statues
had only been lately placed, and a large company had been invited to meet
in the illuminated saloon, and do honour to the artist. Solemn hymns
were to be sung at the uncovering of the statues, beside other
festivities. I was fortunate enough to receive an invitation to this
festival, which was to commence a little past seven. Before that I went
to the theatre, which, I was told, would open at half-past six. I
intended to remain there half an hour, and then drive to the palace,
where my friends would meet me to accompany me to the festival. I went
to the theatre at six, and anxiously waited half an hour for the
commencement of the overture; it was after half-past six, and no signs of
the commencement. I looked again at the bill, and saw, to my annoyance,
that the opera did not begin till seven. But as I would not leave until
I had seen the stage, I spent the time in looking at the theatre itself.
It is tolerably large, and has five tiers of boxes, but is neither
tastefully nor richly decorated. I was most surprised at the exorbitant
price and the variety of seats. I counted twenty-six different kinds; it
seems that every row has a different price, else I don't understand how
they could make such a variety.
At last the overture began; I listened to it, saw the curtain rise,
looked at the fatal spot, and left after the first air. The door-keeper
followed me, took my arm, and wished to give me a return-ticket; and when
I told him that I did not require one, as I did not intend to return, he
said that it had only just commenced, and that I ought to stop, and not
have spent all the money for nothing. I was unfortunately too little
acquainted with the Swedish language to explain the reason of my
departure, so I could give him no answer, but went away. I, however,
heard him say to some one, "I never met with such a woman before; she sat
an hour looking at the curtain, and goes away as soon as it rises." I
looked round and saw how he shook his head thoughtfully, and pointed with
his forefinger to his forehead. I could not refrain from smiling, and
enjoyed the scene as much as I should have done the second act of
Mozart's _Don Giovanni_.
I called for my friends at the royal palace, and spent the evening very
agreeably in the brilliantly-illuminated galleries of antiquities and of
pictures. I had the pleasure also of being introduced to Herr Vogelberg.
His modest, unpretending manners must inspire every one with respect,
even if one does not know what distinguished talent he possesses.
The royal park is one of the finest sights in the neighbourhood of
Stockholm, and is one of the best of its kind. It is a fine large
natural park, with an infinity of groves, meadows, hills, and rocks; here
and there lies a country-house with its fragrant flower-garden, or
tasteful coffee and refreshment houses, which on fine Sundays are filled
with visitors from the town. Good roads are made through the park, and
commodious paths lead to the finest points of view over sea and land.
The bust of the popular poet Bellmann stands on an open sunny spot, and
an annual festival is given here in his honour.
Deeper in the park lies the so-called Rosenthal (Rose valley), a real
Eden. The late king was so partial to this spot, that he spent many
hours in the little royal country-house here, which is built on a retired
spot in the midst of groves and flower-beds. In front of the palace
stands a splendid vase made of a single piece of porphyry. I was told
that it was the largest in Europe, but I consider the one in the Museum
of Naples much larger.
I spent the last hours of my visit to Stockholm in this spot, with the
amiable family of Herr Boje from Finnland, whose acquaintance I had made
on the journey from Gottenburg to Stockholm. I shall therefore never
forget this beautiful park and the agreeable associations connected with
it.
I made a very agreeable excursion also to the royal palace of Haga, to
the large cemetery, and to the military school Karlberg.
The royal castle of Haga is surrounded by a magnificent park, which owes
little to art; it contains some of the finest trees, with here and there
a hill, and is crossed by majestic alleys and well-kept roads for driving
and walking. The palace itself is so small, that I could not but admire
the moderation of the royal family; but I was informed that this is the
smallest of their summer palaces.
Nearly opposite to this park is the great cemetery; but as it has only
existed for about seventeen years, the trees in it are yet rather young.
This would be of little consequence in other countries, but in Sweden the
cemeteries serve as promenades, and are crossed by alleys, ornamented
with groves, and provided with seats for the accommodation of visitors.
This cemetery is surrounded by a dark pine-forest, and really seems quite
shut off from the outer world. It is the only burial-place out of the
town; the others all lie between the churches and the neighbouring
houses, whose fronts often form the immediate boundary. Burials take
place there constantly, so that the inhabitants are quite familiar with
the aspect of death.
From the great cemetery a road leads to the neighbouring Karlberg, which
is the academy for military and naval cadets. The extensive buildings
attached to this seminary are built on the slope of a mountain, which is
washed on one side by the waters of the lake, and surrounded on the other
by the beautiful park-plantations.
Before leaving Stockholm I had the honour of being introduced to her
majesty the Queen of Sweden. She had heard of my travels, and took a
particular interest in my account of Palestine. In consequence of this
favour, I received the special permission to inspect the whole interior
of the palace. Although it was inhabited, I was conducted, not only
through the state-rooms, but through all the private rooms of the court.
It would be impossible to describe the splendour which reigns here, the
treasures of art, the magnificent appointments, and the evident taste
every where displayed. I was delighted with all the treasures and
splendour, but still more with the warm interest with which her majesty
conversed with me about Palestine. This interview will ever dwell on my
memory as the bright salient point of my northern expedition.
EXCURSION TO THE OLD ROYAL CASTLE OF GRIPTHOLM ON THE MALARSEE
Every Sunday morning, at eight o'clock, a little steamer leaves Stockholm
for this castle; the distance is about forty-five miles, and is passed in
four hours; four hours more are allowed for the stay, and in the evening
the steamer returns to Stockholm. This excursion is very interesting,
although we pass the greater part of the time on that portion of the lake
which we had seen on our arrival, but for the last few miles the ship
turned into a pretty bay, at whose apex the castle is situated. It is
distinguished for its size, its architecture, and its colossal turrets.
It is unfortunately, however, painted with the favourite brick-red colour
of the Swedes.
Two immense cannons, which the Swedes once gained in battle from the
Russians, stand in the courtyard. The apartments in the castle, which
are kept in good condition, display neither splendour nor profusion of
appointments, indeed almost the contrary. The pretty theatre is,
however, an exception: for its walls are inlaid from top to bottom with
mirrors, its pillars are gilt, and the royal box tapestried with rich red
velvet. There has been no performance here since the death of Gustavus
III.
The immensely massive walls are a remarkable feature of this palace, and
must measure about three yards in thickness in the lower stories.
The upper apartments are all large and high, and afford a splendid view
of the lake from their windows. But it is impossible to enjoy these
beautiful scenes when one thinks of the sad events which have taken place
here.
Two kings, John III. and Eric XIV., the latter with four of his
ministers, who were subsequently beheaded, were imprisoned here for many
years. The captivity of John III. would not have been so bad, if
captivity were not bad enough in itself. He was confined in a large
splendid saloon, but which he was not permitted to quit, and which he
would therefore probably have gladly exchanged for the poorest hut and
liberty. His wife inhabited two smaller apartments adjoining; she was
not treated as a prisoner, and could leave the castle at will. His son
Sigismund was born here in the year 1566, and the room and bed in which
he was born are still shewn as curiosities.
Eric's fate was much more unfortunate, for he was kept in narrow and dark
confinement. A small rudely-furnished apartment, with narrow,
iron-barred windows, in one of the little turrets was his prison. The
entrance was closed by a solid oaken door, in which a small opening had
been made, through which his food was given him. For greater security
this oaken door was covered by an iron one. Round the outside of the
apartment a narrow gallery had been made, on which the guards were
posted, and could at all times see their prisoner through the barred
windows. The spot is still shewn at one of the windows where the king
sat for hours looking into the distance, his head leaning on his hand.
What must have been his feelings as he gazed on the bright sky, the
verdant turf, and the smiling lake! How many sighs must have been echoed
from these walls, how many sleepless nights must he have passed during
those two long years in anxious expectation of the future!
The guide who took us round the castle maintained that the floor was more
worn on this spot than any where else, and that the window-sash had been
hollowed by the elbow of the miserable king; but I could not perceive any
difference. Eric was kept imprisoned here for two years, and was then
taken to another prison.
There is a large picture-gallery in this castle; but it contains
principally portraits of kings, not only of Sweden, but of other
countries, from the Middle Ages down to the present time; also portraits
of ministers, generals, painters, poets, and learned men; of celebrated
Swedish females, who have sacrificed themselves for their country, and of
the most celebrated female beauties. The name and date of birth of each
person are affixed to his or her portrait, so that each visitor may find
his favourite without guide or catalogue. In many of them the colouring
and drawing are wretched enough, but we will hope that the resemblance is
all the more striking.
On our return several gentlemen were kind enough to direct my attention
to the most interesting points of the lake. Among these I must mention
Kakeholm, its broadest point; the island of Esmoi, on which a Swedish
female gained a battle; Norsberg, also celebrated for a battle which took
place there; and Sturrehof, the property of a great Swedish family. Near
Bjarkesoe a simple cross is erected, ostensibly on the spot where
Christianity was first introduced. Indeed the Malarsee has so many
historical associations, in addition to the attractions of its scenery,
that it is one of the most interesting seas not only of Sweden but of
Europe.
JOURNEY FROM STOCKHOLM TO UPSALA AND TO THE IRON-MINES OF DANEMORA
September 12th.
The intercourse between Stockholm and Upsala is very considerable. A
steamer leaves both places every day except Sunday, and traverses the
distance in six hours.
Tempted by this convenient opportunity of easily and quickly reaching the
celebrated town of Upsala, and by the unusually fine weather, I took my
passage one evening, and was greatly disappointed when, on the following
morning, the rain poured down in torrents. But if travellers paid much
attention to the weather, they would not go far; so I nevertheless
embarked at half-past seven, and arrived safely in Upsala. I remained in
the cabin during the passage, and could not even enjoy the prospect from
the cabin-windows, for the rain beat on them from the outside, while
inside they were obscured by the heat. But I did not venture on deck,
hoping to be favoured by better weather on my return.
At last, about three o'clock, when I had been in Upsala more than an
hour, the weather cleared up, and I sallied out to see the sights.
First I visited the cathedral. I entered, and stood still with
astonishment at the chief portal, on looking up at the high roof resting
on two rows of pillars, and covering the whole church. It is formed in
one beautiful straight line, unbroken by a single arch. The church
itself is simple: behind the grand altar a handsome chapel is erected,
the ceiling of which is painted azure blue, embossed with golden stars.
In this chapel Gustavus I. is interred between his two wives. The
monument which covers the grave is large, and made of marble, but clumsy
and void of taste. It represents a sarcophagus, on which three bodies,
the size of life, are laid; a marble canopy is raised over them. The
walls of the chapel are covered with pretty frescoes, representing the
most remarkable scenes in the life of this monarch. The most interesting
among them are, one in which he enters a peasant's hut in peasant's
attire, at the same moment that his pursuers are eagerly inquiring after
him in front of the hut; the other, when he stands on a barrel, also
dressed as a peasant, and harangues his people. Two large tablets in a
broad gold frame contain in Swedish, and not in the Latin language, the
explanation of the different pictures, so that every Swede may easily
learn the monarch's history.
Several other monuments are erected in the side-chapels; those of
Catharine Magelone, John III., Gustavus Erichson, who was beheaded, and
of the two brothers Sturre, who were murdered. The monument of
Archbishop Menander, in white marble, is a tasteful and artistic modern
production. The great Linnaeus is buried under a simple marble slab in
this church; but his monument is in one of the side-chapels, and not over
his grave, and consists of a beautiful dark-brown porphyry slab, on which
his portrait is sculptured in relief.
The splendid organ, which reaches nearly to the roof of the church, also
deserves special attention. The treasure-chamber does not contain great
treasures; the blood-stained and dagger-torn garments of the unfortunate
brothers Sturre are kept in a glass case here; and here also stands a
wooden statue of the heathen god Thor. This wooden affair seems to have
originally been an Ecce Homo, which was perhaps the ornament of some
village church, then carried off by some unbeliever, and made more
shapeless than its creator, not proficient in art, had made it. It has a
greater resemblance now to a frightful scarecrow than to any thing else.
The churchyard near the church is distinguished for its size and beauty.
It is surrounded by a wall of stone two feet high, surmounted by an iron
palisading of equal height, broken by stone pillars. On several sides,
steps are made into the burying-ground over this partition. In this
cemetery, as in the one of Stockholm, one seems to be in a lovely garden,
laid out with alleys, arbours, lawns, &c.; but it is more beautiful than
the other, because it is older. The graves are half concealed by
arbours; many were ornamented with flowers and wreaths, or hedged by
rose-bushes. The whole aspect of this cemetery, or rather of this
garden, seems equally adapted for the amusement of the living or the
repose of the dead.
The monuments are in no way distinguished; only two are rather
remarkable, for they consist of tremendous pieces of rock in their
natural condition, standing upright on the graves. One of these
monuments resembles a mountain; it covers the ashes of a general, and is
large enough to have covered his whole army; his relatives probably took
the graves of Troy as a specimen for their monument. It is moreover
inscribed by very peculiar signs, which seemed to me to be runic
characters. The good people have united in this monument two
characteristics of the ancients of two entirely distinct empires.
The university or library building in Upsala is large and beautiful; it
is situated on a little hill, with a fine front facing the town. The
park, which is, however, still somewhat young, forms the background. {54}
Near this building, on the same hill, stands a royal palace, conspicuous
for its brick-red colour. It is very large, and the two wings are
finished by massive round towers.
In the centre of the courtyard, behind the castle, is placed a colossal
bust of Gustavus I., and a few paces from it two artificial hills serve
as bastions, on which cannons are planted. This being the highest point
of the town, affords the best view over it, and over the surrounding
country.
The town itself is built half of wood and half of stone, and is very
pretty, being crossed by broad streets, and ornamented with tastefully
laid-out gardens. It has one disadvantage, which is the dark
brownish-red colour of the houses, which has a peculiarly sombre
appearance in the setting sun.
An immense and fertile plain, diversified by dark forests contrasting
with the bright green meadows and the yellow stubble-fields, surrounds
the town, and in the distance the silvery river Fyris flows towards the
sea. Forests close the distant view with their dark shadows. I saw but
few villages; they may, however, have been hidden by the trees, for that
they exist seems to be indicated by the well-kept high roads crossing the
plain in all directions.
Before quitting my position on the bastions of the royal palace I cast a
glance on the castle-gardens, which were lying lower down the hill, and
are separated from the castle by a road; they do not seem to be large,
but are very pretty.
I should have wished to be able to visit the botanic garden near the
town, which was the favourite resort of Linnaeus, whose
splendidly-sculptured bust is said to be its chief ornament; but the sun
was setting behind the mountains, and I repaired to my chamber, to
prepare for my journey to Danemora.
September 13th.
I left Upsala at four o'clock in the morning, to proceed to the far-famed
iron-mines of Danemora, upwards of thirty miles distant, and where I
wished to arrive before twelve, as the blasting takes place at that hour,
after which the pits are closed. As I had been informed how slowly
travelling is done in this country, and how tedious the delays are when
the horses are changed, I determined to allow time enough for all
interruptions, and yet arrive at the appointed hour.
A few miles behind Upsala lies Old Upsala (Gamla Upsala). I saw the old
church and the grave-hills in passing; three of the latter are remarkably
large, the others smaller. It is presumed that the higher ones cover the
graves of kings. I saw similar tumuli during my journey to Greece, on
the spot where Troy is said to have stood. The church is not honoured as
a ruin; it has yet to do service; and it grieved me to see the venerable
building propped up and covered with fresh mortar on many a time-worn
spot.
Half way between Upsala and Danemora we passed a large castle, not
distinguished for its architecture, its situation, or any thing else.
Then we neared the river Fyris, and the long lake of Danemora; both are
quite overgrown with reeds and grass, and have flat uninteresting shores;
indeed the whole journey offers little variety, as the road lies through
a plain, only diversified by woods, fields, and pieces of rock. These
are interesting features, because one cannot imagine how they came there,
the mountains being at a great distance, and the soil by no means rocky.
The little town of Danemora lies in the midst of a wood, and only
consists of a church and a few large and small detached houses. The
vicinity of the mines is indicated before arriving at the place by
immense heaps of stones, which are brought by horse-gins from the pits,
and which cover a considerable space.
I had fortunately arrived in time to see the blastings. Those in the
great pit are the most interesting; for its mouth is so very large, that
it is not necessary to descend in order to see the pit-men work; all is
visible from above. This is a very peculiar and interesting sight. The
pit, 480 feet deep, with its colossal doors and entrances leading into
the galleries, looks like a picture of the lower world, from which
bridges of rocks, projections, arches and caverns formed in the walls,
ascend to the upper world. The men look like pigmies, and one cannot
follow their movements until the eye has accustomed itself to the depth
and to the darkness prevailing below. But the darkness is not very
dense; I could distinguish most of the ladders, which seemed to me like
children's toys.
It was nearly twelve, and the workmen left the pits, with the exception
of those in charge of the mines. They ascended by means of little tubs
hanging by ropes, and were raised by a windlass. It is a terrible sight
to see the men soaring up on the little machine, especially when two or
three ascend at once; for then one man stands in the centre, while the
other two ride on the edge of the tub.
[Picture: Mines of Danemora]
I should have liked to descend into the great pit, but it was too late on
this day, and I would not wait another. I should not have feared the
descent, as I was familiar with such adventures, having explored the
salt-mines of Wieliczka and Bochnia, in Gallicia, some years before, in
which I had had to let myself down by a rope, which is a much more
dangerous method than the tub.
With the stroke of twelve, four blasting trains in the large pit were
fired. The man whose business it was to apply the match ran away in
great haste, and sheltered himself behind a wall of rock. In a few
moments the powder flashed, some stones fell, and then a fearful crash
was heard all around, followed by the rolling and falling of the blasted
masses. Repeated echoes announced the fearful explosion in the interior
of the pits: the whole left a terrible impression on me. Scarcely had
one mine ceased to rage, when the second began, then the third, and so
on. These blastings take place daily in different mines.
The other pits are deeper, the deepest being 600 feet; but the mouths are
smaller, and the shafts not perpendicular, so that the eye is lost in
darkness, which is a still more unpleasant sensation. I gazed with
oppressed chest into the dark space, vainly endeavouring to distinguish
something. I should not like to be a miner; I could not endure life
without the light of day; and when I turned from the dark pits, I cast my
eyes thankfully on the cheerful landscape basking in the sun.
I returned to Upsala on the same day, having made this little journey by
post. I can merely narrate the facts, without giving an opinion on the
good or bad conveniences for locomotion, as this was more a pleasure-trip
than a journey.
As I had hired no carriage, I had a different vehicle at every station,
and these vehicles consisted of ordinary two-wheeled wooden carts. My
seat was a truss of hay covered with the horse-cloth. If the roads had
not been so extremely good, these carts would have shaken terribly; but
as it was, I must say that I rode more comfortably than in the carriols
of the Norwegians, although they were painted and vanished; for in them I
had to be squeezed in with my feet stretched out, and could not change my
position.
The stations are unequal,--sometimes long, sometimes short. The
post-horses are provided here, as in Norway, by wealthy peasants, called
Dschns-peasants. These have to collect a certain number of horses every
evening for forwarding the travellers the next morning. At every
post-house a book is kept, in which the traveller can see how many horses
the peasant has, how many have already been hired, and how many are left
in the stable. He must then inscribe his name, the hour of his
departure, and the number of horses he requires. By this arrangement
deception and extortion are prevented, as every thing is open, and the
prices fixed. {55}
Patience is also required here, though not so much as in Norway. I had
always to wait from fifteen to twenty minutes before the carriage was
brought and the horses and harness prepared, but never longer; and I must
admit that the Swedish post-masters hurried as much as possible, and
never demanded double fare, although they must have known that I was in
haste. The pace of the horse depends on the will of the coachman and the
powers of his steed; but in no other country did I see such consideration
paid to the strength of the horses. It is quite ridiculous to see what
small loads of corn, bricks, or wood, are allotted to two horses, and how
slowly and sleepily they draw their burdens.
The number of wooden gates, which divide the roads into as many parts as
there are common grounds on it, are a terrible nuisance to travellers.
The coachman has often to dismount six or eight times in an hour to open
and close these gates. I was told that these delectable gates even exist
on the great high road, only not quite in such profusion as on the
by-roads.
Wood must be as abundant here as in Norway, for every thing is enclosed;
even fields which seem so barren as not to be worth the labour or the
wood.
The villages through which I passed were generally pretty and cheerful,
and I found the cottages, which I entered while the horses were changed,
neatly and comfortably furnished.
The peasants of this district wear a peculiar costume. The men, and
frequently also the boys, wear long dark-blue cloth surtouts, and cloth
caps on their heads; so that, at a distance, they look like gentlemen in
travelling dress. It seems curious to a foreigner to see these apparent
gentlemen following the plough or cutting grass. At a nearer view, of
course the aspect changes, and the rents and dirt appear, or the leathern
apron worn beneath the coat, like carpenters in Austria, becomes visible.
The female costume was peculiar only in so far that it was poor and
ragged. In dress and shoes the Norwegian and Swedes are behind the
Icelanders, but they surpass them in the comfort of their dwellings.
September 14th.
To-day I returned to Stockholm on the Malarsee, and the weather being
more favourable than on my former passage, I could remain on deck the
whole time. I saw now that we sailed for several miles on the river
Fyris, which flows through woods and fields into the lake.
The large plain on which old and new Upsala lie was soon out of sight,
and after passing two bridges, we turned into the Malar. At first there
are no islands on its flat expanse, and its shores are studded with low
tree-covered hills; but we soon, however, arrived at the region of
islands, where the passage becomes more interesting, and the beauty of
the shores increases. The first fine view we saw was the pretty estate
Krusenberg, whose castle is romantically situated on a fertile hill. But
much more beautiful and surprising is the splendid castle of Skukloster,
a large, beautiful, and regular pile, ornamented with four immense round
turrets at the four corners, and with gardens stretching down to the
water's edge.
From this place the scenery is full of beauty and variety; every moment
presents another and a more lovely view. Sometimes the waters expand,
sometimes they are hemmed in by islands, and become as narrow as canals.
I was most charmed with those spots where the islands lie so close
together that no outlet seems possible, till another turn shews an
opening between them, with a glimpse of the lake beyond. The hills on
the shores are higher, and the promontories larger, the farther the ship
advances; and the islands appear to be merely projections of the
continent, till a nearer approach dispels the illusion.
The village of Sixtuna lies in a picturesque and charming little valley,
filled with ruins, principally of round towers, which are said to be the
remains of the Roman town of Sixtum; the name being retained by the new
town with a slight modification.
After this follow cliffs and rocks rising perpendicularly from the sea,
and whose vicinity would be by no means desirable in a storm. Of the
castle of Rouse only three beautiful domes rise above the trees; a
frowning bleak hill conceals the rest from the eye. Then comes a palace,
the property of a private individual, only remarkable for its size. The
last of the notabilities is the Rokeby bridge, said to be one of the
longest in Sweden. It unites the firm land with the island on which the
royal castle of Drottingholm stands. The town of Stockholm now becomes
visible; we turn into the portion of the lake on which it lies, and
arrive there again at two o'clock in the afternoon.
FROM STOCKHOLM TO TRAVEMUNDE AND HAMBURGH
I bade farewell to Stockholm on the 18th September, and embarked in the
steamer _Svithiold_, of 100-horse power, at twelve o'clock at noon, to go
to Travemunde.
Few passages can be more expensive than this one is. The distance is
five hundred leagues, and the journey generally occupies two and a half
to three days; for this the fare, without food, is four pounds. The food
is also exorbitantly dear; in addition to which the captain is the
purveyor; so that there is no appeal for the grossest extortion or
insufficiency.
It pained me much when one of the poorer travellers, who suffered greatly
from sea-sickness, having applied for some soup to the steward, who
referred him to the amiable captain, to hear him declare he would make no
exception, and that a basin of soup would be charged the whole price of a
complete dinner. The poor man was to do without the soup, of which he
stood so much in need, or scrape every farthing together to pay a few
shillings daily for his dinner. Fortunately for him some benevolent
persons on deck paid for his meals. Some of the gentlemen brought their
own wine with them, for which they had to pay as much duty to the captain
as the wine was worth.
To these pleasures of travelling must be added the fact, that a Swedish
vessel does not advance at all if the weather is unfavourable. Most of
the passengers considered that the engines were inefficient. However
this may be, we were delayed twenty-four hours at the first half of our
journey, from Stockholm to Calmar, although we had only a slight breeze
against us and a rather high sea, but no storm. In Calmar we cast
anchor, and waited for more favourable wind. Several gentlemen, whose
business in Lubeck was pressing, left the steamer, and continued their
journey by land.
At first the Baltic very much resembles the Malarsee; for islands, rocks,
and a variety of scenery make it interesting. To the right we saw the
immensely long wooden bridge of Lindenborg, which unites one of the
larger islands with the continent.
At the end of one of the turns of the sea lies the town of Wachsholm; and
opposite to it, upon a little rocky island, a splendid fortress with a
colossal round tower. Judging by the number of cannons planted along the
walls, this fortress must be of great importance. A few hours later we
passed a similar fortress, Friedrichsborg; it is not in such an open
situation as the other, but is more surrounded by forests. We passed at
a considerable distance, and could not see much of it, nor of the castle
lying on the opposite side, which seems to be very magnificent, and is
also surrounded by woods.
The boundaries of the right shore now disappear, but then again appear as
a terrible heap of naked rocks, at whose extreme edge is situated the
fine fortress Dolero. Near it groups of houses are built on the bare
rocks projecting into the sea, and form an extensive town.
September 19th.
To-day we were on the open, somewhat stormy sea. Towards noon we arrived
at the Calmar Sound, formed by the flat, uniform shores of the long
island Oland on the left, and on the right by Schmoland. In front rose
the mountain-island the Jungfrau, to which every Swede points with
self-satisfied pride. Its height is only remarkable compared with the
flatness around; beside the proud giant-mountain of the same name in
Switzerland it would seem like a little hill.
September 20th.
On account of the contrary wind, we had cast anchor here last night, and
this morning continued the journey to Calmar, where we arrived about two
in the forenoon. The town is situated on an immense plain, and is not
very interesting. A few hours may be agreeably spent here in visiting
the beautiful church and the antiquated castle, and we had more than
enough leisure for it. Wind and weather seemed to have conspired against
us, and the captain announced an indefinite stay at this place. At first
we could not land, as the waves were too high; but at last one of the
larger boats came alongside, and the more curious among us ventured to
row to the land in the unsteady vessel.
The exterior of the church resembles a fine antiquated castle from its
four corner towers and the lowness of its dome, which rises very little
above the building, and also because the other turrets here and there
erected for ornament are scarcely perceptible. The interior of the
church is remarkable for its size, its height, and a particularly fine
echo. The tones of the organ are said to produce a most striking effect.
We sent for the organist, but he was nowhere to be found; so we had to
content ourselves with the echo of our own voices. We went from this
place to the old royal castle built by Queen Margaret in the sixteenth
century. The castle is so dilapidated inside that a tarrying in the
upper chambers is scarcely advisable. The lower rooms of the castle have
been repaired, and are used as prisons; and as we passed, arms were
stretched forth from some of the barred windows, and plaintive voices
entreated the passers-by to bestow some trifle upon the poor inmates.
Upwards of 140 prisoners are said to be confined here. {56}
About three o'clock in the afternoon the wind abated, and we continued
our journey. The passage is very uniform, and we saw only flat, bare
shores; a group of trees even was a rarity.
September 21st.
When I came on deck this morning the Sound was far behind us. To the
left we had the open sea; on the right, instead of the bleak Schmoland,
we had the bleaker Schonen, which was so barren, that we hardly saw a
paltry fishing-village between the low sterile hills.
At nine o'clock in the morning we anchored in the port of Ystadt. The
town is pretty, and has a large square, in which stand the house of the
governor, the theatre, and the town-hall. The streets are broad, and the
houses partly of wood and partly of stone. The most interesting feature
is the ancient church, and in it a much-damaged wooden altar-piece, which
is kept in the vestry. Though the figures are coarse and
disproportionate, one must admire the composition and the carving. The
reliefs on the pulpit, and a beautiful monument to the right of the
altar, also deserve admiration. These are all carved in wood.
In the afternoon we passed the Danish island Malmo.
At last, after having been nearly four days on the sea instead of two
days and a half, we arrived safely in the harbour of Travemunde on the
22d September at two o'clock in the morning. And now my sea-journeys
were over; I parted sorrowfully from the salt waters, for it is so
delightful to see the water's expanse all around, and traverse its
mirror-like surface. The sea presents a beautiful picture, even when it
storms and rages, when waves tower upon waves, and threaten to dash the
vessel to pieces or to engulf it--when the ship alternately dances on
their points, or shoots into the abyss; and I frequently crept for hours
in a corner, or held fast to the sides of the ship, and let the waves
dash over me. I had overcome the terrible sea-sickness during my
numerous journeys, and could therefore freely admire these fearfully
beautiful scenes of excited nature, and adore God in His grandest works.
We had scarcely cast anchor in the port when a whole array of coachmen
surrounded us, volunteering to drive us overland to Hamburgh, a journey
of thirty-six miles, which it takes eight hours to accomplish.
Travemunde is a pretty spot, which really consists of only one street, in
which the majority of the houses are hotels. The country from here to
Lubeck, a distance of ten miles, is very pretty. A splendid road, on
which the carriages roll smoothly along, runs through a charming wood
past a cemetery, whose beauty exceeds that of Upsala; but for the
monuments, one might take it for one of the most splendid parks or
gardens.
I regretted nothing so much as being unable to spend a day in Lubeck, for
I felt very much attracted by this old Hanse town, with its
pyramidically-built houses, its venerable dome, and other beautiful
churches, its spacious squares, &c.; but I was obliged to proceed, and
could only gaze at and admire it as I hurried through. The pavement of
the streets is better than I had seen it in any northern town; and on the
streets, in front of the houses, I saw many wooden benches, on which the
inhabitants probably spend their summer evenings. I saw here for the
first time again the gay-looking street-mirrors used in Hamburgh. The
Trave, which flows between Travemunde and Lubeck, has to be crossed by
boat. Near Oldesloe are the salt-factories, with large buildings and
immensely high chimneys; an old romantic castle, entirely surrounded by
water, lies near Arensburg.
Past Arensburg the country begins to be uninteresting, and remains so as
far as Hamburgh; but it seems to be very fertile, as there is an
abundance of green fields and fine meadows.
The little journey from Lubeck to Hamburgh is rather dear, on account of
the almost incredible number of tolls and dues the poor coachmen have to
pay. They have first to procure a license to drive from Lubeck into
Hamburgh territory, which costs about 1_s._ 3_d._; then mine had to pay
twice a double toll of 8_d._, because we passed through before five
o'clock in the morning, and the gates, which are not opened till five
o'clock, were unfastened especially for us; besides these, there was a
penny toll on nearly every mile.
This dreadful annoyance of the constant stopping and the toll-bars is
unknown in Norway and in Sweden. There, an annual tax is paid for every
horse, and the owner can then drive freely through the whole country, as
no toll-bars are erected.
The farm-houses here are very large and far-spread, but the reason is,
that stable, barn, and shippen are under the same roof: the walls of the
houses are of wood filled in with bricks.
After passing Arensburg, we saw the steeples of Wandsbeck and Hamburgh in
the distance; the two towns seem to be one, and are, in fact, only
separated by pretty country-houses. But Wandsbeck compared to Hamburgh
is a village, not a town.
I arrived in Hamburgh about two o'clock in the afternoon; and my
relatives were so astonished at my arrival, that they almost took me for
a ghost. I was at first startled by their reception, but soon understood
the reason of it.
At the time I left Iceland another vessel went to Altona, by which I sent
a box of minerals and curiosities to my cousin in Hamburgh. The sailor
who brought the box gave such a description of the wretched vessel in
which I had gone to Copenhagen, that, after having heard nothing of me
for two months, he thought I must have gone to the bottom of the sea with
the ship. I had indeed written from Copenhagen, but the letter had been
lost; and hence their surprise and delight at my arrival.