I had not much time to spare, so that I could only stay a few days with
my relatives in Hamburgh; on the 26th September, I went in a little
steamer from Hamburgh to Harburg, where we arrived in three quarters of
an hour. From thence I proceeded in a stage-carriage to Celle, about
sixty-five miles.
The country is not very interesting; it consists for the most part of
plains, which degenerate into heaths and marshes; but there are a few
fertile spots peeping out here and there.
September 27th.
We arrived at Celle in the night. From here to Lehrte, a distance of
about seven miles, I had to hire a private conveyance, but from Lehrte
the railway goes direct to Berlin. {57} Many larger and smaller towns
are passed on this road; but we saw little of them, as the stations all
lie at some distance, and the railway-train only stops a few minutes.
The first town we passed was Brunswick. Immediately beyond the town lies
the pretty ducal palace, built in the Gothic style, in the centre of a
fine park. Wolfenbuttel seems to be a considerable town, judging by the
quantity of houses and church-steeples. A pretty wooden bridge, with an
elegantly-made iron balustrade, is built here across the Ocker. From the
town, a beautiful lane leads to a gentle hill, on whose top stands a
lovely building, used as a coffee-house.
As soon as one has passed the Hanoverian domains the country, though it
is not richer in natural curiosities, is less abundant in marshes and
heaths, and is very well-cultivated land. Many villages are spread
around, and many a charming town excites the wish to travel through at a
slower pace.
We passed Schepenstadt, Jersheim, and Wegersleben, which latter town
already belongs to Prussia. In Ashersleben and in Magdeburg we changed
carriages. Near Salze we saw some fine buildings which belong to the
extensive saltworks existing here. Jernaudau is a colony of Moravians.
I should have wished to visit the town of Kotten,--for nothing can be
more charming than the situation of the town in the midst of fragrant
gardens,--but we unfortunately only stopped there a few minutes. The
town of Dessau is also surrounded by pretty scenery: several bridges
cross the various arms of the Elbe; that over the river itself rests on
solid stone columns. Of Wittenberg we only saw house tops and
church-steeples; the same of Juterbog, which looks as if it were newly
built. Near Lukewalde the regions of sand begin, and the uniformity is
only broken by a little ridge of wooded hills near Trebbin; but when
these are past, the railway passes on to Berlin through a melancholy,
unmitigated desert of sand.
I had travelled from six o'clock this morning until seven in the evening,
over a distance of about two hundred and twenty miles, during which time
we had frequently changed carriages.
The number of passengers we had taken up on the road was very great, on
account of the Leipzic fairs; sometimes the train had thirty-five to
forty carriages, three locomotives, and seven to eight hundred
passengers; and yet the greatest order had prevailed. It is a great
convenience that one can take a ticket from Lehrte to Berlin, although
the railway passes through so many different states, because then one
needs not look after the luggage or any thing else. The officials on the
railway are all very civil. As soon as the train stopped, the guards
announced with a loud voice the time allowed, however long or short it
might be; so that the passengers could act accordingly, and take
refreshments in the neighbouring hotels. The arrangements for alighting
are very convenient: the carriages run into deep rails at the stations,
so that the ground is level with the carriages, and the entrance and exit
easy. The carriages are like broad coaches; two seats ran breadthwise
across them, with a large door at each side. The first and second class
contain eight persons in each division, the third class ten. The
carriages are all numbered, so that every passenger can easily find his
seat.
By these simple arrangements the traveller may descend and walk about a
little, even though the train should only stop two minutes, or even
purchase some refreshments, without any confusion or crowding.
These conveniences are, of course, impossible when the carriages have the
length of a house, and contain sixty or seventy persons within locked
doors, and where the doors are opened by the guards, who only call out
the name of the station without announcing how long the stay is. In such
railways it is not advisable for travellers to leave their seats; for
before they can pass from one end of the carriage to the other, through
the narrow door and down the steep steps, the horn is sounded, and at the
same time the train moves on; the sound being the signal for the
engine-driver, the passengers having none.
In these states there was also not the least trouble with the passport
and the intolerable pass-tickets. No officious police-soldier comes to
the carriage, and prevents the passengers alighting before they have
answered all his questions. If passports had to be inspected on this
journey, it would take a few days, for they must always be taken to the
passport-office, as they are never examined on the spot.
Such annoying interruptions often occur several times in the same state.
And one need not even come from abroad to experience them, as a journey
from a provincial to a capital town affords enough scope for annoyance.
I had no reason to complain of such annoyances in any of the countries
through which I had hitherto passed. My passport was only demanded in my
hotel in the capitals of the countries, if I intended to remain several
days. In Stockholm, however, I found a curious arrangement; every
foreigner there is obliged to procure a Swedish passport, and pay
half-a-crown for it, if he only remains a few hours in the town. This
is, in reality, only a polite way of taking half-a-crown from the
strangers, as they probably do not like to charge so much for a simple
_vise_!
STAY IN BERLIN--RETURN TO VIENNA
I have never seen a town more beautifully or regularly built than
Berlin,--I mean, the town of Berlin itself,--only the finest streets,
palaces, and squares of Copenhagen would bear a comparison with it.
I spent but a few days here, and had therefore scarcely time to see the
most remarkable and interesting sights.
The splendid royal palace, the extensive buildings for the
picture-gallery and museums, the great dome--all these are situated very
near each other.
The Dome church is large and regularly built; a chapel, surrounded by an
iron enclosure, stands at each side of the entrance. Several kings are
buried here, and antiquated sarcophagi cover their remains, known as the
kings' graves. Near them stands a fine cast-iron monument, beneath which
Count Brandenburg lies.
The Catholic church is built in the style of the Rotunda in Rome; but,
unlike it, the light falls from windows made around the walls, and not
from above. Beautiful statues and a simple but tasteful altar are the
only ornaments of this church. The portico is ornamented by beautiful
reliefs.
The Werder church is a modern erection, built in the Gothic style, and
its turrets are ornamented by beautiful bronze reliefs. The walls inside
are inlaid with coloured wood up to the galleries, where they terminate
in Gothic scroll-work. The organ has a full, clear tone; in front of it
stands a painting which, at first sight, resembles a scene from heathen
mythology more than a sacred subject. A number of cupids soar among
wreaths of flowers, and surround three beautiful female figures.
The mint and the architectural college stand near this church. The
former is covered with fine sculptures; the latter is square, of a
brick-red colour, without any architectural embellishment, and perfectly
resembling an unusually large private house. The ground-floor is turned
into fine shops.
Near the palace lies the Opera Square, in which stand the celebrated
opera-house, the arsenal, the university, the library, the academy, the
guardhouse, and several royal palaces. Three statues ornament the
square: those of General Count Bulov, General Count Scharnhorst, and
General Prince Blucher. They are all three beautifully sculptured, but
the drapery did not please me; it consisted of the long military cloth
cloak, which, opening in front, afforded a glimpse of the splendid
uniforms.
The arsenal is one of the finest buildings in Berlin, and forms a square;
at the time of my stay some repairs were being made, so that it was
closed. I had to be content with glimpses through the windows of the
first floor, which showed me immense saloons filled by tremendous
cannons, ranged in rows.
The guardhouse is contiguous, and resembles a pretty temple, with its
portico of columns.
The opera-house forms a long detached square. It would have a much
better effect if the entrances were not so wretched. The one at the
grand portal looks like a narrow, miserable church-door, low and gloomy.
The other entrances are worse still, and one would not suppose that they
could lead to such a splendid interior, whose appointments are
indescribably luxurious and commodious. The pit is filled by rows of
comfortably-cushioned chairs with cushioned backs, numbered, but not
barred. The boxes are divided by very low partitions, so that the
aristocratic world seems to sit on a tribune. The seats in the pit and
the first and second tiers are covered with dark-red silk damask; the
royal box is a splendid saloon, the floor of which is covered with the
finest carpets. Beautiful oil-paintings, in tasteful gold frames,
ornament the plafond; but the magnificent chandelier is the greatest
curiosity. It looks so massively worked in bronze, that it is painful to
see the heavy mass hang so loosely over the heads of the spectators. But
it is only a delusion; for it is made of paste-board, and bronzed over.
Innumerable lamps light the place; but one thing which I miss in such
elegant modern theatres is a clock, which has a place in nearly every
Italian theatre.
The other buildings on this square are also distinguished for their size
and the beauty of their architecture.
An unusually broad stone bridge, with a finely-made iron balustrade, is
built over a little arm of the Spree, and unites the square of the opera
with that on which the palace stands.
The royal museum is one of the finest architectural piles, and its high
portal is covered with beautiful frescoes. The picture-gallery contains
many _chefs-d'oeuvre_; and I regretted that I had not more time to
examine it and the hall of antiquities, having only three hours for the
two.
From the academy runs a long street lined with lime-trees, and which is
therefore called Under-the-limes (_unter den Linden_). This alley forms
a cheerful walk to the Brandenburg-gate, beyond which the
pleasure-gardens are situated. The longest and finest streets which run
into the lime-alley are the Friedrichs Street and the Wilhelms Street.
The Leipziger Street also belongs to the finest, but does not run into
this promenade.
The Gens-d'arme Square is distinguished by the French and German
churches, at least by their exterior,--by their high domes, columns, and
porticoes. The interiors are small and insignificant. On this square
stands also the royal theatre, a tasteful pile of great beauty, with many
pillars, and statues of muses and deities.
I ascended the tower on which the telegraph works, on account of the view
over the town and the flat neighbourhood. A very civil official was
polite enough to explain the signs of the telegraph to me, and to permit
me to look at the other telegraphs through his telescope.
The Konigstadt, situated on the opposite shore of the Spree, not far from
the royal palace, contains nothing remarkable. Its chief street, the
Konigsstrasse, is long, but narrow and dirty. Indeed it forms a great
contrast to the town of Berlin in every thing; the streets are narrow,
short, and winding. The post-office and the theatres are the most
remarkable buildings.
The luxury displayed in the shop-windows is very great. Many a mirror
and many a plate-glass window reminded me of Hamburgh's splendour, which
surpasses that of Berlin considerably.
There are not many excursions round Berlin, as the country is flat and
sandy. The most interesting are to the pleasure-gardens, Charlottenburg,
and, since the opening of the railway, to Potsdam.
The park or pleasure-garden is outside the Brandenburg-gate; it is
divided into several parts, one of which reminded me of our fine Prater
in Vienna. The beautiful alleys were filled with carriages, riders, and
pedestrians; pretty coffee-houses enlivened the woody portions, and merry
children gambolled on the green lawns. I felt so much reminded of my
beloved Prater, that I expected every moment to see a well-known face, or
receive a friendly greeting. Kroll's Casino, sometimes called the
Winter-garden, is built on this side of the park. I do not know how to
describe this building; it is quite a fairy palace. All the splendour
which fancy can invent in furniture, gilding, painting, or tapestry, is
here united in the splendid halls, saloons, temples, galleries, and
boxes. The dining-room, which will dine 1800 persons, is not lighted by
windows, but by a glass roof vaulted over it. Rows of pillars support
the galleries, or separate the larger and smaller saloons. In the
niches, and in the corners, round the pillars, abound fragrant flowers,
and plants in chaste vases or pots, which transform this place into a
magical garden in winter. Concerts and _reunions_ take place here every
Sunday, and the press of visitors is extraordinary, although smoking is
prohibited. This place will accommodate 5000 persons.
That side of the park which lies in the direction of the Potsdam-gate
resembles an ornamental garden, with its well-kept alleys, flower-beds,
terraces, islets, and gold-fish ponds. A handsome monument to the memory
of Queen Louise is erected on the Louise island here.
On this side, the coffee-house Odeon is the best, but cannot be compared
to Kroll's casino. Here also are rows of very elegant country-houses,
most of which are built in the Italian style.
CHARLOTTENBURG
This place is about half an hour's distance from the Brandenburg-gate,
where the omnibuses that depart every minute are stationed. The road
leads through the park, beyond which lies a pretty village, and adjoining
it is the royal country-palace of Charlottenburg. The palace is built in
two stories, of which the upper one is very low, and is probably only
used for the domestics. The palace is more broad than deep; the roof is
terrace-shaped, and in its centre rises a pretty dome. The garden is
simple, and not very large, but contains a considerable orangery. In a
dark grove stands a little building, the mausoleum in which the image of
Queen Louise has been excellently executed by the famed artist Rauch.
Here also rest the ashes of the late king. There is also an island with
statues in the midst of a large pond, on which some swans float proudly.
It is a pity that dirt does not stick to these white-feathered animals,
else they would soon be black swans; for the pond or river surrounding
the island is one of the dirtiest ditches I have ever seen.
Fatigue would be very intolerable in this park, for there are very few
benches, but an immense quantity of gnats.
POTSDAM.
The distance from Berlin to Potsdam is eighteen miles, which is passed by
the railroad in three-quarters of an hour. The railway is very
conveniently arranged; the carriages are marked with the names of the
station, and the traveller enters the carriage on which the place of his
destination is marked. Thus, the passengers are never annoyed by the
entrance or exit of passengers, as all occupying the same carriage
descend at the same time.
The road is very uninteresting; but this is compensated for by Potsdam
itself, for which a day is scarcely sufficient.
Immediately in front of the town flows the river Havel, crossed by a
long, beautiful bridge, whose pillars are of stone, and the rest of the
bridge of iron. The large royal palace lies on the opposite shore, and
is surrounded by a garden. The garden is not very extensive, but large
enough for the town, and is open to the public. The palace is built in a
splendid style, but is unfortunately quite useless, as the court has
beautiful summer-palaces in the neighbourhood of Potsdam, and spends the
winter in Berlin.
The castle square is not very good; it is neither large nor regular, and
not even level. On it stands the large church, which is not yet
completed, but promises to be a fine structure. The town is tolerably
large, and has many fine houses. The streets, especially the Nauner
Street, are wide and long, but badly paved; the stones are laid with the
pointed side upwards, and for foot-passengers there is a stone pavement
two feet broad on one side of the street only. The promenade of the
townspeople is called Am Kanal (beside the canal), and is a fine square,
through which the canal flows, and is ornamented with trees.
Of the royal pleasure-palaces I visited that of Sans Souci first. It is
surrounded by a pretty park, and lies on a hill, which is divided into
six terraces. Large conservatories stand on each side of these; and in
front of them are long alleys of orange and lemon-trees.
The palace has only a ground floor, and is surrounded by arbours, trees,
and vines, so that it is almost concealed from view. I could not inspect
the interior, as the royal family was living there.
A side-path leads from here to the Ruinenberg, on which the ruins of a
larger and a smaller temple, raised by the hand of art, are tastefully
disposed. The top of the hill is taken up by a reservoir of water. From
this point one can see the back of the palace of Sans Souci, and the
so-called new palace, separated from the former by a small park, and
distant only about a quarter of an hour.
The new palace, built by Frederick the Great, is as splendid as one can
imagine. It forms a lengthened square, with arabesques and flat columns,
and has a flat roof, which is surrounded by a stone balustrade, and
ornamented by statues.
The apartments are high and large, and splendidly painted, tapestried,
and furnished. Oil-paintings, many of them very good, cover the walls.
One might fill a volume with the description of all the wonders of this
place, which is, however, not inhabited.
Behind the palace, and separated from it by a large court, are two
beautiful little palaces, connected by a crescent-shaped hall of pillars;
broad stone steps lead to the balconies surrounding the first story of
the edifices. They are used as barracks, and are, as such, the most
beautiful I have ever seen.
From here a pleasant walk leads to the lovely palace of Charlottenburg.
Coming from the large new palace it seemed too small for the dwelling
even of the crown-prince. I should have taken it for a splendid pavilion
attached to the new palace, to which the royal family sometimes walked,
and perhaps remained there to take refreshment. But when I had inspected
it more closely, and seen all the comfortable little rooms, furnished
with such tasteful luxury, I felt that the crown-prince could not have
made a better choice.
Beautiful fountains play on the terraces; the walls of the corridors and
anterooms are covered with splendid frescoes, in imitation of those found
in Pompeii. The rooms abound in excellent engravings, paintings, and
other works of art; and the greatest taste and splendour is displayed
even in the minor arrangements.
A pretty Chinese chiosque, filled with good statues, which have been
unfortunately much damaged and broken, stands near the palace.
These three beautiful royal residences are situated in parks, which are
so united that they seem only as one. The parks are filled with fine
trees, and verdant fields crossed by well-kept paths and drives; but I
saw very few flower-beds in them.
When I had contemplated every thing at leisure, I returned to the palace
of Sans Souci, to see the beautiful fountains, which play twice a week,
on Tuesday and Friday, from noon till evening. The columns projected
from the basin in front of the castle are so voluminous, and rise with
such force, that I gazed in amazement at the artifice. It is real
pleasure to be near the basin when the sun shines in its full splendour,
forming the most beautiful rainbows in the falling shower of drops.
Equally beautiful is a fountain rising from a high vase, enwreathed by
living flowers, and falling over it, so that it forms a quick, brisk
fountain, transparent, and pure as the finest crystal. The lid of the
vase, also enwreathed with growing flowers, rises above the fountain.
The Neptune's grotto is of no great beauty; the water falls from an urn
placed over it, and forms little waterfalls as it flows over
nautilus-shells.
The marble palace lies on the other side of Potsdam, and is half an
hour's distance from these palaces; but I had time enough to visit it.
Entering the park belonging to this palace, a row of neat peasants'
cottages is seen on the left; they are all alike, but separated by fruit,
flower, or kitchen-gardens. The palace lies at the extreme end of the
park, on a pretty lake formed by the river Havel. It certainly has some
right to the name of marble palace; but it seems presumption to call it
so when compared to the marble palaces of Venice, or the marble mosques
of Constantinople.
The walls of the building are of brick left in its natural colour. The
lower and upper frame-work, the window-sashes, and the portals, are all
of marble. The palace is partly surrounded by a gallery supported on
marble columns. The stairs are of fine white marble, and many of the
apartments are laid with this mineral. The interior is not nearly so
luxurious as the other palaces.
This was the last of the sights I saw in Potsdam or the environs of
Berlin; for I continued my journey to Vienna on the following day.
Before quitting Berlin, I must mention an arrangement which is
particularly convenient for strangers--namely, the fares for
hackney-carriages. One need ask no questions, but merely enter the
carriage, tell the coachman where to drive, and pay him six-pence. This
moderate fare is for the whole town, which is somewhat extensive. At all
the railway stations there are numbers of these vehicles, which will
drive to any hotel, however far it may be from the station, for the same
moderate fare. If only all cab-drivers were so accommodating!
October 1st.
The railway goes through Leipzic to Dresden, where I took the mail-coach
for Prague at eight o'clock the same evening, and arrived there in
eighteen hours.
As it was night when we passed, we did not enjoy the beautiful views of
the Nollendorf mountain. In the morning we passed two handsome
monuments, one of them, a pyramid fifty-four feet high, to the memory of
Count Colloredo, the other to the memory of the Russian troops who had
fallen here; both have been erected since the wars of Napoleon.
On we went through charming districts to the famed bathing-place Teplitz,
which is surrounded by the most beautiful scenery; and can bear
comparison with the finest bathing-places of the world.
Further on we passed a solitary basaltic rock, Boren, which deserves
attention for its beauty and as a natural curiosity. We unfortunately
hurried past it, as we wished to reach Prague before six o'clock, so that
we might not miss the train to Vienna.
My readers may imagine our disappointment on arriving at the gates of
Prague, when our passports were taken from us and not returned. In vain
we referred to the _vise_ of the boundary-town Peterswalde; in vain we
spoke of our haste. The answer always was, "That is nothing to us; you
can have your papers back to-morrow at the police-office." Thus we were
put off, and lost twenty-four hours.
I must mention a little joke I had on the ride from Dresden to Prague.
Two gentlemen and a lady beside myself occupied the mail-coach; the lady
happened to have read my diary of Palestine, and asked me, when she heard
my name, if I were that traveller. When I had acknowledged I was that
same person, our conversation turned on that and on my present journey.
One of the gentlemen, Herr Katze, was very intelligent, and conversed in
a most interesting manner on countries, nationalities, and scientific
subjects. The other gentleman was probably equally well informed, but he
made less use of his acquirements. Herr Katze remained in Teplitz, and
the other gentleman proceeded with us to Vienna. Before arriving at our
destination, he asked me if Herr Katze had not requested me to mention
his name in my next book, and added, that if I would promise to do the
same, he would tell me his name. I could not refrain from smiling, but
assured him that Herr Katze had not thought of such a thing, and begged
him not to communicate his name to me, so that he might see that we
females were not so curious as we are said to be. But the poor man could
not refrain from giving me his name--Nicholas B.--before we parted. I do
not insert it for two reasons: first, because I did not promise to name
him; and secondly, because I do not think it would do him any service.
The railway from Prague to Vienna goes over Olmutz, and makes such a
considerable round, that the distance is now nearly 320 miles, and the
arrangements on the railway are very imperfect.
There were no hotels erected on the road, and we had to be content with
fruit, beer, bread, and butter, &c. the whole time. And these provisions
were not easily obtained, as we could not venture to leave the carriages.
The conductor called out at every station that we should go on directly,
although the train frequently stood upwards of half an hour; but as we
did not know that before, we were obliged to remain on our seats. The
conductors were not of the most amiable character, which may perhaps be
ascribed to the climate; for when we approached the boundary of the
Austrian states at Peterswalde, the inspector received us very gruffly.
We wished him good evening twice, but he took no notice of it, and
demanded our papers in a loud and peremptory tone; he probably thought us
as deaf as we thought him. At Ganserndorf, twenty-five miles from
Vienna, they took our papers from us in a very uncivil, uncourteous
manner.
On the 4th of October, 1845, after an absence of six months, I arrived
again in sight of the dear Stephen's steeple, as most of my countrywomen
would say.
I had suffered many hardships; but my love of travelling would not have
been abated, nor would my courage have failed me, had they been ten times
greater. I had been amply compensated for all. I had seen things which
never occur in our common life, and had met with people as they are
rarely met with--in their natural state. And I brought back with me the
recollections of my travels, which will always remain, and which will
afford me renewed pleasure for years.
And now I take leave of my dear readers, requesting them to accept with
indulgence my descriptions, which are always true, though they may not be
amusing. If I have, as I can scarcely hope, afforded them some
amusement, I trust they will in return grant me a small corner in their
memories.
In conclusion, I beg to add an Appendix, which may not be uninteresting
to many of my readers, namely:
1. A document which I procured in Reikjavik, giving the salaries of the
royal Danish officials, and the sources from whence they are paid.
2. A list of Icelandic insects, butterflies, flowers, and plants, which
I collected and brought home with me.
APPENDIX A
Salaries of the Royal Danish Officials in Iceland, which they receive
from the Icelandic land-revenues.
Florins {58}
The Governor of Iceland 2000
Office expenses 600
The deputy for the western 1586
district
Office expenses 400
Rent 200
The deputy for the northern and 1286
eastern districts
Office expenses 400
The bishop of Iceland, who draws 800
his salary from the
school-revenues, has paid him
from this treasury
The members of the Supreme Court:
One judge 1184
First assessor 890
Second assessor 740
The land-bailiff of Iceland 600
Office expenses 200
Rent 150
The town-bailiff of Reikjavik 300
The first police-officer of 200
Reikjavik, who is at the same
time gaoler, and therefore has 50
_fl._ more than the second
officer
The second police-officer 150
The mayor of Reikjavik only draws 150
from this treasury his
house-rent, which is
The sysselman of the Westmanns 296
Islands
The other sysselmen, each 230
Medical department and midwifery:
The physician 900
House-rent 150
Apothecary of Reikjavik 185
House-rent 150
The second apothecary at 90
Sikkisholm
Six surgeons in the country, 300
each
House-rent for some 30
For others 25
A medical practitioner on the 110
Northland
Reikjavik has two midwives, 50
each receives
The other midwives in Iceland, 100
amounting to thirty, each
receives
These midwives are instructed
and examined by the land
physician, who has the charge of
paying them annually.
Organist of Reikjavik 100
From the school-revenues
The bishop receives 1200
The teachers at the high
school:
The teacher of theology 800
The head assistant, besides 500
free lodging
The second assistant 500
House-rent 50
The third assistant 500
House-rent 50
The resident at the school 170
LIST OF INVERTEBRATED ANIMALS collected in Iceland
1. CRUSTACEA.
Pagarus Bernhardus, _Linnaeus_.
2. INSECTA.
a. _Coleoptera_. Nebria rubripes, _Dejean_. Patrobus hyperboreus.
Calathus melanocephalus, _Fabr_. Notiophilus aquaticus. Amara vulgaris,
_Duftsihm_. Ptinus fur, _Linn_. Aphodius Lapponum, _Schh_.
Otiorhynchus laevigatus, _Dhl_. Otiorhynchus Pinastri, _Fabr_.
Otiorhynchus ovatus. Staphylinus maxillosus. Byrrhus pillula.
b. _Neuroptera_. Limnophilus lineola, _Schrank_.
c. _Hymenoptera_. Pimpla instigator, _Gravh_. Bombus subterraneus,
_Linn_.
d. _Lepidoptera_. Geometra russata, Hub. Geom. alche millata. Geom.
spec. nov.
e. _Diptera_. Tipula lunata, _Meig_. Scatophaga stercoraria. Musca
vomitaria. Musca mortuorum. Helomyza serrata. Lecogaster islandicus,
_Scheff_. {59} Anthomyia decolor, _Fallin_.
LIST OF ICELANDIC PLANTS _collected by Ida Pfeiffer in the Summer of the
year_ 1845
_Felices_. Cystopteris fragilis.
_Equisetaceae_. Equisetum Teltamegra.
_Graminae_. Festuca uniglumis.
_Cyperaceae_. Carea filiformis. Carea caespitosa. Eriophorum
caespitosum.
_Juncaceae_. Luzula spicata. Luzula campestris.
_Salicineae_. Salix polaris.
_Polygoneae_. Remux arifolus. Oxyria reniformes.
_Plumbagineae_. Armeria alpina (in the interior mountainous districts).
_Compositae_. Chrysanthemum maritimum (on the sea-shore, and on marshy
fields). Hieracium alpinum (on grassy plains). Taraxacum alpinum.
Erigeron uniflorum (west of Havenfiord, on rocky soil).
_Rubiaceae_. Gallium pusillum. Gallium verum.
_Labiatae_. Thynus serpyllum.
_Asperifoliae_. Myosotis alpestris. Myosotis scorpioicles.
_Scrophularineae_. Bartsia alpina (in the interior north-western
valleys). Rhinanthus alpestris.
_Utricularieae_. Pinguicula alpina. Pinguicula vulgaris.
_Umbelliferae_. Archangelica officinalis (Havenfiord).
_Saxifrageae_. Saxifraga caespitosa (the real Linnaean plant: on rocks
round Hecla).
_Ranunculaceae_. Ranunculus auricomus. Ranunculus nivalis. Thalictrum
alpinum (growing between lava, near Reikjavik). Caltha palustris.
_Cruciferae_. Draba verna. Cardamine pratensis.
_Violariceae_. Viola hirta.
_Caryophylleae_. Sagina stricta. Cerastium semidecandrum. Lepigonum
rubrum. Silene maritima. Lychnis alpina (on the mountain-fields round
Reikjavik).
_Empetreae_. Empetrum nigrum.
_Geraniaceae_. Geranium sylvaticum (in pits near Thingvalla).
_Troseaceae_. Parnassia palustris.
_OEnothereae_. Epilobium latifolium (in clefts of the mountain at the
foot of Hecla). Epilobium alpinum (in Reiker valley, west of
Havenfiord).
_Rosaceae_. Rubus arcticus. Potentilla anserina. Potentilla
gronlandica (on rocks near Kallmanstunga and Kollismola). Alchemilla
montana. Sanguisorba officinalis. Geum rivale. Dryas octopela (near
Havenfiord).
_Papilionaceae_. Trifolium repens.
FOOTNOTES:
{1} In this Gutenberg eText only Madame Pfeiffer's work appears--DP.
{2} Madame Pfeiffer's first journey was to the Holy Land in 1842; and on
her return from Iceland she started in 1846 on a "Journey round the
World," from which she returned in the end of 1848. This adventurous
lady is now (1853) travelling among the islands of the Eastern
Archipelago.
{3} A florin is worth about 2_s._ 1_d._; sixty kreutzers go to a florin.
{4} At Kuttenberg the first silver groschens were coined, in the year
1300. The silver mines are now exhausted, though other mines, of copper,
zinc, &c. are wrought in the neighbourhood. The population is only half
of what it once was. --ED.
{5} The expression of Madame Pfeiffer's about Frederick "paying his
score to the Austrians," is somewhat vague. The facts are these. In
1757 Frederick the Great of Prussia invaded Bohemia, and laid siege to
Prague. Before this city an Austrian army lay, who were attacked with
great impetuosity by Frederick, and completely defeated. But the town
was defended with great valour; and during the time thus gained the
Austrian general Daun raised fresh troops, with which he took the field
at Collin. Here he was attacked by Frederick, who was routed, and all
his baggage and cannon captured. This loss was "paying his score;" and
the defeat was so complete, that the great monarch sat down by the side
of a fountain, and tracing figures in the sand, was lost for a long time
in meditation on the means to be adopted to retrieve his fortune.
{6} I mention this little incident to warn the traveller against parting
with his effects.
{7} The true version of this affair is as follows. John of Nepomuk was
a priest serving under the Archbishop of Prague. The king, Wenceslaus,
was a hasty, cruel tyrant, who was detested by all his subjects, and
hated by the rest of Germany. Two priests were guilty of some crime, and
one of the court chamberlains, acting under royal orders, caused the
priests to be put to death. The archbishop, indignant at this, placed
the chamberlain under an interdict. This so roused the king that he
attempted to seize the archbishop, who took refuge in flight. John of
Nepomuk, however, and another priest, were seized and put to the torture
to confess what were the designs of the archbishop. The king seems to
have suspected that the queen was in some way connected with the line of
conduct pursued by the archbishop. John of Nepomuk, however, refused,
even though the King with his own hand burned him with a torch.
Irritated by his obstinate silence, the king caused the poor monk to be
cast over the bridge into the Moldau. This monk was afterwards
canonised, and made the patron saint of bridges.--ED.
{8} Albert von Wallenstein (or Waldstein), the famous Duke of Friedland,
is celebrated as one of the ablest commanders of the imperial forces
during the protracted religious contest known in German history as the
"Thirty Years' War." During its earlier period Wallenstein greatly
distinguished himself, and was created by the Emperor Ferdinand Duke of
Friedland and generalissimo of the imperial forces. In the course of a
few months Wallenstein raised an army of forty thousand men in the
Emperor's service. The strictest discipline was preserved _within_ his
camp, but his troops supported themselves by a system of rapine and
plunder unprecedented even in those days of military license. Merit was
rewarded with princely munificence, and the highest offices were within
the reach of every common soldier who distinguished himself;--trivial
breaches of discipline were punished with death. The dark and ambitious
spirit of Wallenstein would not allow him to rest satisfied with the
rewards and dignities heaped upon him by his imperial master. He
temporised and entered into negotiations with the enemy; and during an
interview with a Swedish general (Arnheim), is even said to have proposed
an alliance to "hunt the Emperor to the devil." It is supposed that he
aspired to the sovereignty of Bohemia. Ferdinand was informed of the
ambitious designs of his general, and at length determined that
Wallenstein should die. He despatched one of his generals, Gallas, to
the commander-in-chief, with a mandate depriving him of his dignity of
generalissimo, and nominating Gallas as his successor. Surprised before
his plans were ripe, and deserted by many on whose support he had relied,
Wallenstein retired hastily upon Egra. During a banquet in the castle,
three of his generals who remained faithful to their leader were murdered
in the dead of night. Roused by the noise, Wallenstein leapt from his
bed, and encountered three soldiers who had been hired to despatch him.
Speechless with astonishment and indignation, he stretched forth his
arms, and receiving in his breast the stroke of a halbert, fell dead
without a groan, in the fifty-first year of his age.
The following anecdote, curiously illustrative of the state of affairs in
Wallenstein's camp, is related by Schiller in his _History of the Thirty
Years' War_, a work containing a full account of the life and actions of
this extraordinary man. "The extortions of Wallenstein's soldiers from
the peasants had at one period reached such a pitch, that severe
penalties were denounced against all marauders; and every soldier who
should be convicted of theft was threatened with a halter. Shortly
afterwards, it chanced that Wallenstein himself met a soldier straying in
the field, whom he caused to be seized, as having violated the law, and
condemned to the gallows without a trial, by his usual word of doom: "Let
the rascal be hung!" The soldier protested, and proved his innocence.
"Then let them hang the innocent," cried the inhuman Wallenstein; "and
the guilty will tremble the more." The preparations for carrying this
sentence into effect had already commenced, when the soldier, who saw
himself lost without remedy, formed the desperate resolution that he
would not die unrevenged. Rushing furiously upon his leader, he was
seized and disarmed by the bystanders before he could carry his intention
into effect. "Now let him go," said Wallenstein; "it will excite terror
enough.""--ED.
{9} Poniatowski was the commander of the Polish legion in the armies of
Napoleon, by whom he was highly respected. At the battle of Leipzig,
fought in October 1813, Poniatowski and Marshal MacDonald were appointed
to command the rear of Napoleon's army, which, after two days hard
fighting, was compelled to retreat before the Allies. These generals
defended the retreat of the army so gallantly, that all the French
troops, except those under their immediate command, had evacuated the
town. The rear-guard was preparing to follow, when the only bridge over
the Elster that remained open to them was destroyed, through some
mistake. This effectually barred the escape of the rear of Napoleon's
army. A few, among whom was Marshal MacDonald, succeeded in swimming
across; but Poniatowski, after making a brave resistance, and refusing to
surrender, was drowned in making the same attempt.--ED.
{10} Leipzig has long been famous as the chief book-mart of Germany. At
the great Easter meetings, publishers from all the different states
assemble at the "Buchhandler Borse," and a large amount of business is
done. The fairs of Leipzig have done much towards establishing the
position of this city as one of the first trading towns in Germany. They
take place three times annually: at New-year, at Easter, and at
Michaelmas; but the Easter fair is by far the most important. These
commercial meetings last about three weeks, and during this time the town
presents a most animated appearance, as the streets are thronged with the
costumes of almost every nation, the smart dress of the Tyrolese
contrasting gaily with the sombre garb of the Polish Jews. The amount of
business transacted at these fairs is very considerable; on several
occasions, above twenty thousand dealers have assembled. The trade is
principally in woollen cloths; but lighter wares, and even ornaments of
every description, are sold to a large extent. The manner in which every
available place is taken advantage of is very curious: archways, cellars,
passages, and courtyards are alike filled with merchandise, and the
streets are at times so crowded as to be almost impassable. When the
three weeks have passed, the wooden booths which have been erected in the
market-place and the principal streets are taken down, the buyers and
sellers vanish together, and the visitor would scarcely recognise in the
quiet streets around him the bustling busy city of a few days ago.--ED.
{11} The fire broke out on 4th May 1842, and raged with the utmost fury
for three days. Whole streets were destroyed, and at least 2000 houses
burned to the ground. Nearly half a million of money was raised in
foreign countries to assist in rebuilding the city, of which about a
tenth was contributed by Britain. Such awful fires, fearful though they
are at the time, seem absolutely necessary to great towns, as they cause
needful improvements to be made, which the indolence or selfishness of
the inhabitants would otherwise prevent. There is not a great city that
has not at one time or another suffered severely from fire, and has risen
out of the ruins greater than before.--ED.
{12} There are no docks at Hamburgh, consequently all the vessels lie in
the river Elbe, and both receive and discharge their cargoes there.
Madame Pfeiffer, however, is mistaken in supposing that only London could
show a picture of so many ships and so much commercial activity
surpassing that of Hamburgh. Such a picture, more impressive even than
that seen in the Elbe, is exhibited every day in the Mersey or the
Hudson.--ED.
{13} Kiel, however, is a place of considerable trade; and doubtless the
reason why Madame Pfeiffer saw so few vessels at it was precisely the
same reason why she saw so many at Hamburgh. Kiel contains an excellent
university.--ED.
{14} At sea I calculate by sea-miles, of which sixty go to a degree.
{15} This great Danish sculptor was born of poor parents at Copenhagen,
on the 19th November, 1770; his father was an Icelander, and earned his
living by carving figure-heads for ships. Albert, or "Bertel," as he is
more generally called, was accustomed during his youth to assist his
father in his labours on the wharf. At an early age he visited the
Academy at Copenhagen, where his genius soon began to make itself
conspicuous. At the age of sixteen he had won a silver, and at twenty a
gold medal. Two years later he carried off the "great" gold medal, and
was sent to study abroad at the expense of the Academy. In 1797 we find
him practising his art at Rome under the eye of Zoega the Dane, who does
not, however, seem to have discovered indications of extraordinary genius
in the labours of his young countryman. But a work was soon to appear
which should set all questions as to Thorwaldsen's talent for ever at
rest. In 1801 he produced his celebrated statue of "Jason," which was at
once pronounced by the great Canova to be "a work in a new and a grand
style." After this period the path of fame lay open before the young
sculptor; his bas-reliefs of "Summer" and "Autumn," the "Dance of the
Muses," "Cupid and Psyche," and numerous other works, followed each other
in rapid succession; and at length, in 1812, Thorwaldsen produced his
extraordinary work, "The Triumph of Alexander." In 1819 Thorwaldsen
returned rich and famous to the city he had quitted as a youth
twenty-three years before; he was received with great honour, and many
feasts and rejoicings were held to celebrate his arrival. After a
sojourn of a year Thorwaldsen again visited Rome, where he continued his
labours until 1838, when, wealthy and independent, he resolved to rest in
his native country. This time his welcome to Copenhagen was even more
enthusiastic than in 1819. The whole shore was lined with spectators,
and amid thundering acclamations the horses were unharnessed from his
carriage, and the sculptor was drawn in triumph by the people to his
_atelier_. During the remainder of his life Thorwaldsen passed much of
his time on the island of Nyso, where most of his latest works were
executed. On Sunday, March 9th, 1842, he had been conversing with a
circle of friends in perfect health. Halm's tragedy of _Griselda_ was
announced for the evening, and Thorwaldsen proceeded to the theatre to
witness the performance. During the overture he rose to allow a stranger
to pass, then resumed his seat, and a moment afterwards his head sunk on
his breast--he was dead!
His funeral was most sumptuous. Rich and poor united to do honour to the
memory of the great man, who had endeared himself to them by his virtues
as by his genius. The crown-prince followed the coffin, and the people
of Copenhagen stood in two long rows, and uncovered their heads as the
coffin of the sculptor was carried past. The king himself took part in
the solemnity. At the time of his decease Thorwaldsen had completed his
seventy-second year.--ED.
{16} Tycho de Brahe was a distinguished astronomer, who lived between
1546 and 1601. He was a native of Denmark. His whole life may be said
to have been devoted to astronomy. A small work that he published when a
young man brought him under the notice of the King of Denmark, with whose
assistance he constructed, on the small island of Hulln, a few miles
north of Copenhagen, the celebrated Observatory of Uranienburg. Here,
seated in "the ancient chair" referred to in the text, and surrounded by
numerous assistants, he directed for seventeen years a series of
observations, that have been found extremely accurate and useful. On the
death of his patron he retired to Prague in Bohemia, where he was
employed by Rodolph II. then Emperor of Germany. Here he was assisted by
the great Kepler, who, on Tycho's death in 1601, succeeded him.--ED.
{17} The fisheries of Iceland have been very valuable, and indeed the
chief source of the commerce of the country ever since it was discovered.
The fish chiefly caught are cod and the tusk or cat-fish. They are
exported in large quantities, cured in various ways. Since the discovery
of Newfoundland, however, the fisheries of Iceland have lost much of
their importance. So early as 1415, the English sent fishing vessels to
the Icelandic coast, and the sailors who were on board, it would appear,
behaved so badly to the natives that Henry V. had to make some
compensation to the King of Denmark for their conduct. The greatest
number of fishing vessels from England that ever visited Iceland was
during the reign of James I., whose marriage with the sister of the
Danish king might probably make England at the time the most favoured
nation. It was in his time that an English pirate, "Gentleman John," as
he was called, committed great ravages in Iceland, for which James had
afterwards to make compensation. The chief markets for the fish are in
the Catholic countries of Europe. In the seventeenth century, a great
traffic in fish was carried on between Iceland and Spain.--ED.
{18} The dues charged by the Danish Government on all vessels passing
through the Sound have been levied since 1348, and therefore enjoy a
prescriptive right of more than five hundred years. They bring to the
Danish Government a yearly revenue of about a quarter of a million; and,
in consideration of the dues, the Government has to support certain
lighthouses, and otherwise to render safe and easy the navigation of this
great entrance to the Baltic. Sound-dues were first paid in the palmy
commercial days of the Hanseatic League. That powerful combination of
merchants had suffered severely from the ravages of Danish pirates, royal
and otherwise; but ultimately they became so powerful that the rich
merchant could beat the royal buccaneer, and tame his ferocity so
effectually as to induce him to build and maintain those beacon-lights on
the shores of the Sound, for whose use they and all nations and merchants
after them have agreed to pay certain duties.--ED.
{19} The Feroe Islands consist of a great many islets, some of them mere
rocks, lying about halfway between the north coast of Scotland and
Iceland. At one time they belonged to Norway, but came into the
possession of Denmark at the same time as Iceland. They are exceedingly
mountainous, some of the mountains attaining an elevation of about 2800
feet. The largest town or village does not contain more than 1500 or
1600 inhabitants. The population live chiefly on the produce of their
large flocks of sheep, and on the down procured, often at great risk to
human life, from the eider-duck and other birds by which the island is
frequented.--ED.
{20} I should be truly sorry if, in this description of our "life aboard
ship," I had said any thing which could give offence to my kind friend
Herr Knudson. I have, however, presumed that every one is aware that the
mode of life at sea is different to life in families. I have only to
add, that Herr Knudson lived most agreeably not only in Copenhagen, but
what is far more remarkable, in Iceland also, and was provided with every
comfort procurable in the largest European towns.
{21} It is not only at sea that ingenious excuses for drinking are
invented. The lovers of good or bad liquor on land find these reasons as
"plenty as blackberries," and apply them with a marvellous want of stint
or scruple. In warm climates the liquor is drank to keep the drinker
cool, in cold to keep him warm; in health to prevent him from being sick,
in sickness to bring him back to health. Very seldom is the real reason,
"because I like it," given; and all these excuses and reasons must be
regarded as implying some lingering sense of shame at the act, and as
forming part of "the homage that vice always pays to virtue."--ED.
{22} The sailors call those waves "Spanish" which, coming from the west,
distinguish themselves by their size.
{23} These islands form a rocky group, only one of which is inhabited,
lying about fifteen miles from the coast. They are said to derive their
name from some natives of Ireland, called West-men, who visited Iceland
shortly after its discovery by the Norwegians. In this there is nothing
improbable, for we know that during the ninth and tenth centuries the
Danes and Normans, called Easterlings, made many descents on the Irish
coast; and one Norwegian chief is reported to have assumed sovereign
power in Ireland about the year 866, though he was afterwards deposed,
and flung into a lough, where he was drowned: rather an ignominious death
for a "sea-king."--ED.
{24} This work, which Madame Pfeiffer does not praise too highly, was
first published in 1810. After passing through two editions, it was
reprinted in 1841, at a cheap price, in the valuable people's editions of
standard works, published by Messrs. Chambers of Edinburgh.
{25} It is related of Ingold that he carried with him on his voyage the
door of his former house in Ireland, and that when he approached the
coast he cast it into the sea, watching the point of land which it
touched; and on that land he fixed his future home. This land is the
same on which the town of Reikjavik now stands. These old sea-kings,
like the men of Athens, were "in all things too superstitious."--ED.
{26} These sea-rovers, that were to the nations of Europe during the
middle ages what the Danes, Norwegians, and other northmen were at an
earlier period, enjoyed at this time the full flow of their lawless
prosperity. Their insolence and power were so great that many nations,
our own included, were glad to purchase, by a yearly payment, exemption
from the attacks of these sea-rovers. The Americans paid this tribute so
late as 1815. The unfortunate Icelanders who were carried off in the
seventeenth century nearly all died as captives in Algiers. At the end
of ten years they were liberated; but of the four hundred only
thirty-seven were alive when the joyful intelligence reached the place of
their captivity; and of these twenty-four died before rejoining their
native land.--ED.
{27} This town, the capital of Iceland, and the seat of government, is
built on an arm of the sea called the Faxefiord, in the south-west part
of the island. The resident population does not exceed 500, but this is
greatly increased during the annual fairs. It consists mainly of two
streets at right angles to each other. It contains a large church built
of stone, roofed with tiles; an observatory; the residences of the
governor and the bishop, and the prison, which is perhaps the most
conspicuous building in the town.--ED.
{28} As Madame Pfeiffer had thus no opportunity of attending a ball in
Iceland, the following description of one given by Sir George Mackenzie
may be interesting to the reader.
"We gave a ball to the ladies of Reikjavik and the neighbourhood. The
company began to assemble about nine o'clock. We were shewn into a small
low-roofed room, in which were a number of men, but to my surprise I saw
no females. We soon found them, however, in one adjoining, where it is
the custom for them to wait till their partners go to hand them out. On
entering this apartment, I felt considerable disappointment at not
observing a single woman dressed in the Icelandic costume. The dresses
had some resemblance to those of English chambermaids, but were not so
smart. An old lady, the wife of the man who kept the tavern, was habited
like the pictures of our great-grandmothers. Some time after the dancing
commenced, the bishop's lady, and two others, appeared in the proper
dress of the country.
"We found ourselves extremely awkward in dancing what the ladies were
pleased to call English country dances. The music, which came from a
solitary ill-scraped fiddle, accompanied by the rumbling of the same
half-rotten drum that had summoned the high court of justice, and by the
jingling of a rusty triangle, was to me utterly unintelligible. The
extreme rapidity with which it was necessary to go through many
complicated evolutions in proper time, completely bewildered us; and our
mistakes, and frequent collisions with our neighbours, afforded much
amusement to our fair partners, who found it for a long time
impracticable to keep us in the right track. When allowed to breathe a
little, we had an opportunity of remarking some singularities in the
state of society and manners among the Danes of Reikjavik. While
unengaged in the dance, the men drink punch, and walk about with
tobacco-pipes in their mouths, spitting plentifully on the floor. The
unrestrained evacuation of saliva seems to be a fashion all over Iceland;
but whether the natives learned it from the Danes, or the Danes from the
natives, we did not ascertain. Several ladies whose virtue could not
bear a very strict scrutiny were pointed out to us.
"During the dances, tea and coffee were handed about; and negus and punch
were ready for those who chose to partake of them. A cold supper was
provided, consisting of hams, beef, cheese, &c., and wine. While at
table, several of the ladies sang, and acquitted themselves tolerably
well. But I could not enjoy the performance, on account of the incessant
talking, which was as fashionable a rudeness in Iceland as it is now in
Britain. This, however, was not considered as in the least unpolite.
One of the songs was in praise of the donors of the entertainment; and,
during the chorus, the ceremony of touching each other's glasses was
performed. After supper, waltzes were danced, in a style that reminded
me of soldiers marching in cadence to the dead march in Saul. Though
there was no need of artificial light, a number of candles were placed in
the rooms. When the company broke up, about three o'clock, the sun was
high above the horizon."
{29} A man of eighty years of age is seldom seen on the
island.--_Kerguelen_.
{30} Kerguelen (writing in 1768) says: "They live during the summer
principally on cod's heads. A common family make a meal of three or four
cods' heads boiled in sea-water."--ED.
{31} This bakehouse is the only one in Iceland, and produces as good
bread and biscuit as any that can be procured in Denmark. [In
Kerguelen's time (1768) bread was very uncommon in Iceland. It was
brought from Copenhagen, and consisted of broad thin cakes, or
sea-biscuits, made of rye-flour, and extremely black.--ED.]
{32} In all high latitudes fat oily substances are consumed to a vast
extent by the natives. The desire seems to be instinctive, not acquired.
A different mode of living would undoubtedly render them more susceptible
to the cold of these inclement regions. Many interesting anecdotes are
related of the fondness of these hyperborean races for a kind of food
from which we would turn in disgust. Before gas was introduced into
Edinburgh, and the city was lighted by oil-lamps, several Russian
noblemen visited that metropolis; and it is said that their longing for
the luxury of train-oil became one evening so intense, that, unable to
procure the delicacy in any other way, they emptied the oil-lamps. Parry
relates that when he was wintering in the Arctic regions, one of the
seamen, who had been smitten with the charms of an Esquimaux lady, wished
to make her a present, and knowing the taste peculiar to those regions,
he gave her with all due honours a pound of candles, six to the pound!
The present was so acceptable to the lady, that she eagerly devoured the
lot in the presence of her wondering admirer.--ED.
{33} An American travelling in Iceland in 1852 thus describes, in a
letter to the _Boston Post_, the mode of travelling:--"All travel is on
horseback. Immense numbers of horses are raised in the country, and they
are exceedingly cheap. As for travelling on foot, even short journeys,
no one ever thinks of it. The roads are so bad for walking, and
generally so good for riding that shoe-leather, to say nothing of
fatigue, would cost nearly as much as horse-flesh. Their horses are
small, compact, hardy little animals, a size larger than Shetland ponies,
but rarely exceeding from 12 or 13.5 hands high. A stranger in
travelling must always have a 'guide,' and if he does go equipped for a
good journey and intends to make good speed, he wants as many as six
horses; one for himself, one for the guide, one for the luggage, and
three relay horses. Then when one set of horses are tired the saddles
are exchanged to the others. The relay horses are tied together and are
either led or driven before the others. A tent is often carried, unless
a traveller chooses to chance it for his lodgings. Such an article as an
hotel is not kept in Iceland out of the capital. You must also carry
your provisions with you, as you will be able to get but little on your
route. Plenty of milk can be had, and some fresh-water fish. The
luggage is carried in trunks that are hung on each side of the horse, on
a rude frame that serves as a pack-saddle. Under this, broad pieces of
turf are placed to prevent galling the horse's back."
{34} The down of the eider-duck forms a most important and valuable
article of Icelandic commerce. It is said that the weight of down
procurable from each nest is about half a pound, which is reduced
one-half by cleansing. The down is sold at about twelve shillings per
pound, so that the produce of each nest is about three shillings. The
eider-duck is nearly as large as the common goose; and some have been
found on the Fern Islands, off the coast of Northumberland.--ED.
{35} The same remark applies with equal force to many people who are not
Icelanders. It was once the habit among a portion of the population of
Lancashire, on returning from market, to carry their goods in a bag
attached to one end of a string slung over their shoulders, which was
balanced by a bag containing a stone at the other. Some time ago, it was
pointed out to a worthy man thus returning from market, that it would be
easier for him to throw away the stone, and make half of his load balance
the other half, but the advice was rejected with disdain; the plan he had
adopted was that of his forefathers, and he would on no account depart
from it.--ED.
{36} The description of the Wolf's Hollow occurs in the second act of
_Der Freyschutz_, when Rodolph sings:
"How horrid, dark, and wild, and drear,
Doth this gaping gulf appear!
It seems the hue of hell to wear.
The bellowing thunder bursts yon clouds,
The moon with blood has stained her light!
What forms are those in misty shrouds,
That stalk before my sight?
And now, hush! hush!
The owl is hooting in yon bush;
How yonder oak-tree's blasted arms
Upon me seem to frown!
My heart recoils, but all alarms
Are vain: fate calls, I must down, down."
{37} The reader must bear in mind that, during the season of which I
speak, there is no twilight, much less night, in Iceland.
{38} The springs of Carlsbad are said to have been unknown until about
five hundred years ago, when a hunting-dog belonging to one of the
emperors of Germany fell in, and by his howling attracted the hunters to
the spot. The temperature of the chief spring is 165 degrees.--ED.
{39} History tells of this great Icelandic poet, that owing to his
treachery the free island of Iceland came beneath the Norwegian sceptre.
For this reason he could never appear in Iceland without a strong guard,
and therefore visited the Allthing under the protection of a small army
of 600 men. Being at length surprised by his enemies in his house at
Reikiadal, he fell beneath their blows, after a short and ineffectual
resistance. [Snorri Sturluson, the most distinguished name of which
Iceland can boast, was born, in 1178, at Hoam. In his early years he was
remarkably fortunate in his worldly affairs. The fortune he derived from
his father was small, but by means of a rich marriage, and by
inheritance, he soon became proprietor of large estates in Iceland. Some
writers say that his guard of 600 men, during his visit to the Allthing,
was intended not as a defence, as indicated in Madame Pfeiffer's note,
but for the purposes of display, and to impress the inhabitants with
forcible ideas of his influence and power. He was invited to the court
of the Norwegian king, and there he either promised or was bribed to
bring Iceland under the Norwegian power. For this he has been greatly
blamed, and stigmatised as a traitor; though it would appear from some
historians that he only undertook to do by peaceable means what otherwise
the Norwegian kings would have effected by force, and thus saved his
country from a foreign invasion. But be this as it may, it is quite
clear that he sunk in the estimation of his countrymen, and the feeling
against him became so strong, that he was obliged to fly to Norway. He
returned, however, in 1239, and in two years afterwards he was
assassinated by his own son-in-law. The work by which he is chiefly
known is the _Heimskringla_, or Chronicle of the Sea-Kings of Norway, one
of the most valuable pieces of northern history, which has been admirably
translated into English by Mr. Samuel Laing. This curious name of
Heimskringla was given to the work because it contains the words with
which begins, and means literally _the circle of the world_.--ED.]
{40} A translation of this poem will be found in the Appendix. [Not
included in this Gutenberg eText--DP]
{41} In Iceland, as in Denmark, it is the custom to keep the dead a week
above ground. It may be readily imagined that to a non-Icelandic sense
of smell, it is an irksome task to be present at a burial from beginning
to end, and especially in summer. But I will not deny that the continued
sensation may have partly proceeded from imagination.
{42} Every one in Iceland rides.
{43} I cannot forbear mentioning a curious circumstance here. When I
was at the foot of Mount Etna in 1842, the fiery element was calmed; some
months after my departure it flamed with renewed force. When, on my
return from Hecla, I came to Reikjavik, I said jocularly that it would be
most strange if this Etna of the north should also have an eruption now.
Scarcely had I left Iceland more than five weeks when an eruption, more
violent than the former one, really took place. This circumstance is the
more remarkable, as it had been in repose for eighty years, and was
already looked upon as a burnt-out volcano. If I were to return to
Iceland now, I should be looked upon as a prophetess of evil, and my life
would scarcely be safe.
{44} Every peasant in tolerably good circumstances carries a little tent
with him when he leaves home for a few days. These tents are, at the
utmost, three feet high, five or six feet long, and three broad.
{45} "Though their poverty disables them from imitating the hospitality
of their ancestors in all respects, yet the desire of doing it still
exists: they cheerfully give away the little they have to spare, and
express the utmost joy and satisfaction if you are pleased with the
gift." _Uno von Troil_, 1772.--ED.
{46} The presence of American ships in the port of Gottenburg is not to
be wondered at, seeing that nearly three-fourths of all the iron exported
from Gottenburg is to America.--ED.
{47} "St. Stephen's steeple" is 450 feet high, being about 40 feet
higher than St. Paul's, and forms part of St. Stephen's Cathedral in
Vienna, a magnificent Gothic building, that dates as far back as the
twelfth century. It has a great bell, that weighs about eighteen tons,
being more than double the weight of the bell in St. Peter's at Rome, and
four times the weight of the "Great Tom of Lincoln." The metal used
consisted of cannons taken from the Turks during their memorable sieges
of Vienna. The cathedral is 350 feet long and 200 wide, being less than
St. Paul's in London, which is 510 feet long and 282 wide.--ED.
{48} The _Storthing_ is the name given to the Norwegian parliament,
which assembles once every three years at Christiania. The time and
place of meeting are fixed by law, and the king has no power to prevent
or postpone its assembly. It consists of about a hundred members, who
divide themselves into two houses. The members must not be under thirty
years of age, and must have lived for ten years in Norway. The electors
are required to be twenty-five years of age, and to be either burgesses
of a town, or to possess property of the annual value of 30_l._ The
members must possess the same qualification. The members of the
Storthing are usually plain-spoken, sensible men, who have no desire to
shine as orators, but who despatch with great native sagacity the
business brought before them. This Storthing is the most independent
legislative assembly in Europe; for not only has the king no power to
prevent its meeting at the appointed time, but should he refuse to assent
to any laws that are passed, these laws come into force without his
assent, provided they are passed by three successive parliaments.--ED.
{49} The present king of Sweden and Norway is Oscar, one of the few
fortunate scions of those lowly families that were raised to royal power
and dignity by Napoleon. His father, Bernadotte, was the son of an
advocate, and entered the French army as a common soldier; in that
service he rose to the rank of marshal, and then became crown-prince, and
ultimately king of Sweden. He died in 1844. The mother of Oscar was
Desiree Clary, a sister of Julie Clary, wife of Joseph Bonaparte, the
elder brother of Napoleon. This lady was asked in marriage by Napoleon
himself, but her father refused his assent; and instead of becoming an
unfortunate empress of France, she became a fortunate queen of Sweden and
Norway. Oscar was born at Paris in 1799, and received his education
chiefly in Hanover. He accompanied his father to Sweden in 1810, and
ascended the throne on his father's death in 1844. In 1824 he married
Josephine Beauharnois, daughter of Prince Eugene, and granddaughter of
the brilliant and fascinating Josephine, the first and best wife of
Napoleon. Oscar is much beloved by his subjects; his administration is
mild, just, and equable; and his personal abilities and acquirements are
far beyond the average of crowned heads.--ED.
{50} Bergen is a town of about twenty-five thousand inhabitants,
situated near the Kons Fiord, on the west coast of Norway, and distant
about 350 miles from Christiania. It is the seat of a bishopric, and a
place of very considerable trade, its exports being chiefly fish. It has
given its name to a county and a township in the state of New Jersey.
There are three other Bergens,--one in the island of Rugen, one in the
Netherlands, and another in the electorate of Hesse.
{51} _Kulle_ is the Swedish for hill.
{52} Delekarlien is a Swedish province, situated ninety or one hundred
miles north of Stockholm.
{53} The family of Sturre was one of the most distinguished in Sweden.
Sten Sturre introduced printing into Sweden, founded the University of
Upsala, and induced many learned men to come over. He was mortally
wounded in a battle against the Danes, and died in 1520.
His successors as governors, Suante, Nilson Sturre, and his son, Sten
Sturre the younger, still live in the memory of the Swedish nation, and
are honoured for their patriotism and valour.
{54} The University of Upsala is the most celebrated in the north. It
owes its origin to Sten Sturre, the regent of the kingdom, by whom it was
founded in 1476, on the same plan as the University of Paris. Through
the influence of the Jesuits, who wished to establish a new academy in
Stockholm, it was dissolved in 1583, but re-established in 1598.
Gustavus Vasa, who was educated at Upsala, gave it many privileges, and
much encouragement; and Gustavus Adolphus reconstituted it, and give it
very liberal endowments. There are twenty-four professors, and the
number of students is between four and five hundred.--ED.
{55} See novel of _Ivar_, _the Skjuts Boy_, by Miss Emilie Carlen.
{56} At Calmar was concluded, in 1397, the famous treaty which bears its
name, by which Denmark, Sweden, and Norway were united under one crown,
that crown placed nominally on the head of Eric Duke of Pomerania, but
virtually on that of his aunt Margaret, who has received the name of "the
Semiramis of the North." --ED.
{57} There is now a railway direct from Hamburgh to Berlin.--ED.
{58} A florin is about two shillings sterling.--_Tr._
{59} Herr T. Scheffer of Modling, near Vienna, gives the following
characteristic of this new dipteral animal, which belongs to the family
muscidae, and resembles the species borborus:
_Antennae_ deflexae, breves, triarticulatae, articulo ultimo phoereco;
seda nuda.
_Hypoctoma_ subprominulum, fronte lata, setosa. _Oculi_ rotundi, remoti.
Abdomen quinque annulatum, dorso nudo. _Tarsi_ simplices. _Alae_
incumbentes, abdomine longiores, nervo primo simplici.
Niger, abdomine nitido, antennis pedibusque rufopiceis.