CHAPTER XVI

ACROSS SIBERIA BY RAIL

The success with which San Francisco was brought within two or three

weeks of Europe by means of the Union and Central Pacific railways

prompted far-seeing individuals to aspire for a similar acceleration

of travel around the other half of the northern hemisphere. This could

be done by driving the iron road straight across Europe and Asia, and

it was pointed out, in support of the scheme, that the industrial and

commercial centres of western Europe would be brought within about a

fortnight’s journey of China.

The construction of a railway across Siberia was discussed for over

half a century. In 1851 Count Mouraviev-Amoursky, the Governor-General

of Eastern Siberia, suggested that he should be brought into more

immediate touch with the heart of the Russian Empire. He suggested

that first a highroad should be built across the continent, upon which

the iron rails should be laid later, thus converting the channel of

vehicular and pedestrian traffic into a railway.

It was a brilliant idea, but like many other great schemes suffered

from being premature. However, as Siberia developed, the building

of independent railway lines in various parts of the country, to be

connected together by short links, thereby forming a chain of railways

stretching from the Baltic to the Pacific Ocean, was mooted frequently.

The Government viewed the recommendations sympathetically, but nothing

definite was arranged.

In 1869 the administrative authorities scattered throughout Asiatic

Russia became so energetic in their demands for improved communication

with western Europe that the Government entertained seriously the

bonding of the empire. The question arose, however, as to the most

advantageous location. What direction should it follow in order to

serve the most promising interests from an economic point of view? This

was a problem that demanded searching investigation, but meanwhile the

railway commenced to move eastwards, the existing system of Russia in

Europe being driven more and more towards the Ural Mountains. By 1888

the railhead was within easy reach of the eastern frontier of Europe,

having gained Zlatoost.

A halt was called at this juncture. The outposts of steel were

three in number, Orenburg, Tioumen on the Asiatic side of the

Urals and connected with Ekaterinburg, and Zlatoost. A decision

was necessary to determine which of these three railheads should

be the jumping-off point for the long toil through Siberia. Three

surveys were made, and as a result of prolonged consideration of

the advantages and disadvantages of the respective routes from

every point of view, among the most important of which was the

question of cost, Zlatoost was selected as the most favourable

starting-point. From that point the location was by way of

Tcheliabinsk-Kourgan-Petropavlovsk-Omsk-Tomsk-Krasnoiarsk to

Nijneoudinsk, as this offered the shortest length of line, traversed

the most densely populated and most fertile country, and at the same

time could be built far cheaper than either of the alternative routes.

It was recognised that the line would entail the expenditure of a huge

sum of money, no matter how cheaply it was constructed, and that there

could be no hope of any return upon the investment for many years to

come owing to the unsettled character of the country. Accordingly it

was decided to avoid all pretentious engineering exploits--in fact, to

build the line upon pioneer principles. A five-foot gauge was adopted

to harmonise with European Russia, and in order to cut the cost of

construction down to the lowest possible figure the lightest material

was employed, the rails, for instance, only weighing 54 pounds per

yard. It was realised that the paramount condition was to open up the

land and its resources without delay, and to overhaul the line as

traffic increased, thereby bringing it gradually into conformity with

the generally accepted standards of a modern railway.

As the project was of such far-reaching significance to the Russian

Empire it was resolved that it should be carried out as a national

undertaking. Every ounce of material required was to be fashioned in

Russian workshops--there was only one important departure from this

decision, and that was the construction of the huge ice-breaking

ferries on Lake Baikal, which, being beyond the capacity of the Russian

builders, were designed and constructed at the Elswick works of Sir W.

G. Armstrong, Whitworth & Company, Limited--and that it should be built

by Russian labour under Russian engineers with Russian money. It was an

Imperial enterprise from end to end.

To govern the work of construction a national committee was

established, composed of interested ministers, under the presidency of

the Grand Duke Heritier, the present Tsar, who upon his ascent to the

throne retained his seat upon this commission. Indeed, the Emperor has

displayed the greatest interest in this undertaking from its inception,

and, in fact, inaugurated the work by laying the stone commemorating

the turning of the first sod at Vladivostok on May 18, 1891, during his

visit to the East.

Owing to the gigantic character of the work it was divided into several

distinct sections comprised as follows--

MILES

1. The Western Siberian Railway from

Tcheliabinsk to Obi 885·14

2. The Central Siberian Railway from Obi to

Irkutsk, subdivided into two parts, the

first from Obi to Krasnoiarsk, and the

second from Krasnoiarsk to Irkutsk 1143·75

3. The Baikal Railway from Irkutsk to

Myssovaia 192

4. The Trans-Baikal Railway from Myssovaia

to Stretensk 690·4

5. The Amur Railway from Stretensk to

Khabarovsk 1383·75

6. The Ossouri Railway from Khabarovsk

to Vladivostok 476·8

This was the manner in which the 4,771 miles of line constituting the

link between the Urals and the eastern seaboard of the Pacific was

split up. The difficulties that were likely to be encountered were

realised only too well. Though great engineering achievements were

not to be permitted from lack of funds, it was recognised that in

certain places heavy initial expenditure could not be avoided. The

rivers which flow northwards to the Arctic sea, and thus cut across the

direction of the railway at right angles, were to be feared the most,

owing to their great widths, velocity, and the ice-packs with which

they were obstructed during the early spring. Here metal only could

be employed, and as the waterways to be crossed were numerous, it was

seen that the expenditure under this heading would have to be enormous.

There was another factor which had to be taken into consideration.

These waterways during the summer season are the great highroads of

communication through the country, and consequently it was imperative

that the rails should be carried at a sufficient height above the

waterways as to offer no obstruction to steamboat navigation.

As a matter of fact, it may be conceded that the huge bridges across

such rivers as the Irtych, Obi and Yenisei constitute the outstanding

features of the work. They were built massively, and although

their erection in many cases taxed the skill of the engineers to a

superlative degree, owing to the difficult conditions prevailing, their

successful completion is a striking tribute to the men responsible for

their consummation. The fact that these waterways were frozen during

the winter, harassed the engineers in one, while it was a distinct

boon in another, direction. Rails could be laid upon the ice, over

which the construction trains could proceed from bank to bank, hauling

the requisite supplies and provisions for the workmen, whereas in the

summer such work had to be effected by ferries and boats demanding

transhipment at the banks, whereby considerable time was lost, as well

as incurring the liability of damage to the material handled.

Work was commenced on the various sections as soon as it was possible

to gather the requisite material and men on the spot. Owing to the

extreme difficulty attending access to the middle parts of the

country, these sections were not taken in hand until some two or three

years after the earth and rock had commenced to fly at the extreme

ends. As already mentioned, construction actually commenced first at

Vladivostok, but some months later, on July 7, 1892, the engineers

commenced to drive the steel highway eastwards from the European

terminus at Tcheliabinsk, to which point the line had been carried

forward from Zlatoost.

The country entered after the Urals were left behind was the fringe of

a vast steppe covered with tall bush, which continues until the Obi

is gained. Then the character of the country changes with startling

suddenness, desert giving way to dense forests, where heavy clearing

was necessary to secure the right-of-way. The timber, however, was

of slight use for building purposes, and this deficiency, together

with that of stone, proved a serious drawback. Timber had to be

hauled from long distances and pressed into service for spanning the

smaller waterways, creeks and streams, there being over 260 temporary

structures of this type upon this division. Difficulty was also

experienced in securing material for ballasting the line, and in some

instances it was necessary to haul the material for this purpose 20

miles across country.

Four large steel bridges had to be erected in order to carry the

railway across the Tobol, Ichime, Irtych and Obi rivers, all of which

are navigable. The last two waterways demanded the heaviest pieces of

work of this character, the Irtych bridge being about 2,130 feet in

length, divided into six spans, each of about 354½ feet. That over the

Obi measures some 2,650 feet from end to end, built up of seven spans,

three of which are of 594½ feet, and four of 291½ feet respectively.

The rigours of the climate were felt severely. The summer is short

and hot, while the winter is long and intensely cold, the temperature

ranging between -5 and -13 degrees, while at times the mercury was

found to descend to -40 degrees. Moreover, the steppe is swept by

terrific winds, and the conditions told heavily upon the labourers

working in such an exposed situation. In summer, after making

allowances for wet and fête days, only about 120 days were left for

operations, and consequently it was essential to continue work during

the winter as far as practicable. The sparsely-populated character

of the country militated against the engineers, and the labour for

the most part had to be brought from Europe, for the peasants were

unaccustomed to navvy work. The scarcity of water was another adverse

factor, that found in the more sterile reaches being brackish and unfit

for consumption. To meet this contingency water had to be brought over

long distances for the workmen, while in places artesian wells were

sunk which relieved the situation slightly. Under these conditions the

completion of the 885 miles of line comprised in this section within

four years was an excellent piece of work.

The Central Siberian railway, as it ran through two diametrically

different stretches of country--plain and mountainous respectively--was

subdivided into two divisions. The first section, stretching from the

banks of the Obi, where it connected with the Western Siberian railway,

was taken in hand in May 1893, and the work was pushed forward so

vigorously that it was completed in advance of the scheduled time.

Trains from St. Petersburg could not run over this section, however,

until two years later, as the struggles of the engineers upon the

mountains, in the second moiety, demanded the utilisation of the first

section for the handling of their supplies and material. The broken

country proved to be exceedingly troublesome. Moreover, a large number

of wide waterways had to be crossed, such as the Yenisei, where a

magnificent bridge 2,856 feet in length had to be erected. It is a

massive structure, and at present constitutes the largest and heaviest

work of its description in Siberia.

The traveller as he rolls over the iron road cannot resist contrasting

the solidity and permanent appearance of these noble bridges with the

temporary character of the line in other places. The difference is so

great as to be incongruous. Yet it was in accordance with the original

plans. The earthworks and permanent way can be replaced at leisure,

but the bridges, and the reputation of the rivers they span, led the

authorities to decide that in these instances first cost should be

last cost. When the whole railway is brought up to the standard of the

bridge-work, it will be comparable in solidity and travelling comfort

with the leading lines of other countries.

Rapidity in laying the track on the first section was due to the fact

that the line traversed an undulating plain where heavy works were

not demanded. The climate for the most part was found to be analogous

with that prevailing in Western Siberia, the mean temperature in

summer hovering about 70 degrees, to fall to about -7.6 degrees in

winter. In order that the workmen during the latter season might not

be interrupted in their tasks of fashioning the stone-work for the

bridges, special workshops were provided, heated with steam and stoves,

and similar shelters were built over the sites of erection on the ice,

where the workmen were enabled to lay the masonry in comfort. At the

same time these measures permitted the cement to dry slowly instead of

being frozen, only to fall to pieces with the approach of spring.

As the engineers pushed farther and farther away from the European

frontier, the country was found to be more and more thinly settled.

Along the line of the Central Siberian railway the average population

was one person per square mile, and the majority of these people

were colonists who had emigrated from European Russia to practise

agriculture in the East, and they were settled for the most part along

the postal road to Tomsk.

Under such conditions labour had to be brought from several hundreds

of miles to the rear. Huge depots had to be established to house

provisions and large camps formed for the employees. Furthermore,

thousands of horses and hundreds of wagons were required in addition

to sleighs. Roads had to be cut for the passage of these vehicles,

and at various points stores of provisions and other necessaries had

to be stored in deep pits dug in the ground, and covered with heavy

tree-trunks to secure protection against bears and other marauders.

The penetration of the dark and matted primeval forests was terrible.

The ground was swampy, and in order to facilitate the advance of

vehicles the soft soil had to be rendered firmer by tree-trunks laid

down to form a kind of timber road. The men engaged in this essential

undertaking suffered extreme privations, not only bodily, but mentally

as well. The terrible solitude preyed upon their minds, while the

rainfall and entire absence of the rudiments of comfort told upon their

constitutions.

In order to facilitate the transportation of the provisions and

material from European Russia to the main depots along the line, the

great waterways were utilised to the fullest extent. Boats of all

descriptions took on these stores at convenient points near the Urals,

such as Tioumen, and by traversing the various tributaries of the

mighty Obi were able to gain numerous points along the location, where

they discharged their cargoes. Thence the goods were dispatched to the

scattered depots and camps by road.

When Irkutsk was gained, the first serious troubles arising from

the mountains confronted the engineers. The survey showed that the

line here would have to describe a huge detour to round the southern

extremity of Lake Baikal, a sheet of water as large as England. The

country was broken up to an extreme degree, and among other works of a

heavy nature involved was a tunnel nearly 12,500 feet long through the

Zyrkousounsk mountain chain, which towers to a height of 12,000 feet

above sea-level. But the tunnel was only one obstacle which would have

to be overcome, for heavy cuttings through rock and big fills to cross

depressions were indicated on all sides. Some idea of the outlook was

afforded from the estimated cost of this 182 miles of line which was

ciphered at £2,700,000, or $13,500,000. As, after compassing the lake,

the line swung sharply north-eastwards to gain Myssovaia, practically

opposite the point on the west bank, a bold temporary expedient was

suggested. This was the installation of a large vessel combining the

features of an ice-breaker and ferry, which should carry the trains

intact across the lake, a distance of about 45 miles. By this means

construction from the eastern bank could be hastened, leaving the

line around the end of the sheet of water to be built at leisure at a

subsequent date.

The construction of this vessel was entrusted to Sir W. G. Armstrong,

Whitworth & Co., Limited, who had undertaken the ice-breaker _Ermak_

which had proved such a unique success in the Baltic Sea. It measures

280 feet in length and has a displacement of 4,200 tons. It is

propelled by twin screws driven by triple expansion engines developing

3,750 horse-power. A third screw is placed in the front, which not only

serves to assist propulsion, but also to crush the ice, the vessel, as

it were, cutting its own channel.

Rails are laid upon the deck of this steamer so that the train, when it

comes to the water’s edge on one bank, proceeds under its own power on

to the steamer, and upon reaching the opposite bank of the lake runs on

to dry land. In addition, there is accommodation for a large number of

passengers.

The vessel was built on the Tyne and then dismantled, every part

being numbered to show its relative position. It was shipped to St.

Petersburg, and from that point dispatched to Krasnoiarsk. Here on the

shores of Lake Baikal the parts were reassembled and the vessel was

launched. This ship-building operation was no mean feat in itself,

bearing in mind the remote situation of the lake and the complete

absence of those thousand-and-one facilities which are to be found in a

shipyard on the Tyne.

The vessel proved a complete success, and the authorities were so

gratified at this solution of a difficult problem that they secured a

second ice-breaker, together with a floating dock where these craft

could be repaired and overhauled as occasion demanded, together with

sufficient equipment for such work. The total expenditure upon this

trans-Baikal marine work alone amounted to £684,190, or $3,420,950.

The line around the shore of the lake, however, has been completed,

providing through continuous railway communication across Siberia.

Passengers can still enjoy the lake trip if they desire or are in a

hurry, as the steamers are still in service, not only for this special

purpose, but also to serve various other points along the shores of

Lake Baikal, thereby bringing a great territory within easy reach of

the railway.

The forging of the link around the lake, however, proved the most

difficult part of the whole undertaking. Bridges across yawning deep

gulches had to be introduced freely and projecting spurs had to be

tunnelled. Heavy gradients and sharp curves could not be avoided owing

to the configuration of the country, and at many places the work is

extremely daring. Despite the difficulties with which the engineer had

to grapple, this trying section was completed two years before the

anticipated date, a result in the main due to the energy and initiative

of one man--Prince Khilkoff.

This scion of one of the oldest and most noble families in Russia was

an extraordinary man, and probably the most famous railway engineer

that Russia has produced. His career was as extraordinary as his

character. When a young man he determined to see things for himself.

For several months he worked at a bench in Liverpool in order to

become familiar with the trade of a mechanic. Then when one of the

early trans-continental railways was being driven across the United

States, he proceeded to that country and joined the navvying gangs at

the railhead, becoming acquainted in turn with the difficulties of

penetrating the mountains, railway-building and a thousand-and-one

other details pertaining to such operations in a new country of a

diversified character. In this way he gained valuable first-hand

knowledge from practical experience. Afterwards he turned his

attention to the operating side, serving first as stoker and then as

driver. Still climbing the ladder, he became traction manager and was

responsible for the running of the line. Few men ever have gained such

an all-round knowledge of the intricate art of controlling a railway as

did Prince Michael Ivanovitch Khilkoff, and one of his most treasured

possessions was an old certificate of character that was given to

him by his superior when he severed his connection with an American

railway, in order to facilitate his securing another post.

The knowledge he thus acquired stood him in valuable stead when

he returned to Russia, where the development of various means of

communication throughout the empire was in a state of transition. On

account of his wide and varied experience he was appointed to the

directorship and control of various railways, and soon brought them to

a high state of efficiency. He achieved the topmost rung of the ladder

when he was appointed minister of all the roads, canals, rivers and

railways of the empire.

The Trans-Siberian road thus came under his control, and he set to

work energetically upon the completion of this tremendous enterprise.

His influence was demonstrated on every hand. Lackadaisical methods

made way for strict business routine, and in a short time the

whole organisation was running with the precision of a clock. His

subordinates when in a quandary never hesitated from seeking his advice

and assistance, which were granted always with sympathetic interest;

and when the obstacle assumed more than normal proportions he did not

attempt its negotiation from an arm-chair thousands of miles away, but

hurried to the spot to study it at first-hand, and to recommend and

assist himself in the breaking down of the difficulty. He had become so

saturated with American railway methods that he travelled up and down

the line continuously; no detail, no matter how slight, missed his eye.

At the time the Circum-Baikal line was in progress he scarcely ever

left the railhead, as it was just one of those complex and exasperating

fights with Nature in which he revelled. At seventy-five he was as

active and as keen as ever, and it was a distinct misfortune for Russia

that he was struck down by a paralytic stroke from which he never

recovered. Still, he left a host of recommendations for the improvement

of the Trans-Siberian and other railways, including the double tracking

of the great trans-continental steel way, which are now being fulfilled.

When Lake Baikal was crossed, the engineers experienced a grim struggle

for supremacy through every foot of the way. There is an up-hill pull

from the shore of the lake over the Yablonovoi range, where the railway

attains its highest point on the continent, viz. 3,412 feet above

sea-level, and then makes a descent to gain the valley of the Amur. The

country traversed is of a varied character, and was found to be tightly

in the grip of frost, for the winter is terribly severe. The land, in

fact, may be described as eternally frozen, for in summer, although the

temperature rises to about 62 degrees, it does not thaw the ground to

a depth of more than 7 feet below the surface. In the forested parts

where the branches shut out the genial rays of the sun, ice is found at

about 20 inches below the surface in midsummer.

Under these circumstances advance was trying. The top-soil was as hard

as rock, and could not be displaced except by dynamite, so that in the

deep cuttings in mid-summer it was just as arduous to cut a way through

the frozen loam as through the solid rock. The rivers, although they

flow with a fierce velocity, freeze up quickly, and the ice assumes a

great depth--a train can cross on the congealed surface with perfect

safety.

In this country, strange to say, it was found to be easier to work

during the winter, notwithstanding the extreme cold, than during the

summer, for a higher rate of advance could be maintained when the

country was frost-bound. There is an almost total absence of snow, but,

on the other hand, during the summer the rainfall is tremendous. The

wet season lasts continuously for nearly two months--from the middle of

June to the middle of August. The downpour is so terrific that floods

are precipitated on every hand, and the resultant situation, as may

be surmised, is of the most miserable character. In 1897 the effect

of this deluge was experienced to an abnormal degree, for several

villages were overwhelmed, and widespread misery was inflicted among

the peasants. The railway did not escape, for large stretches of line

were washed away and large quantities of material were lost.

The scarcity of labour was felt very severely. Sufficient men could not

be recruited locally, and to import navvies from Europe was hopeless.

To meet this contingency the Administration authorities sanctioned

the employment of exiles, while criminals were requisitioned to build

the grade under a military guard. Though recourse to prison labour

has been often advocated for railway construction, this is one of

the rare instances where it has been brought into actual application

through absolute force of circumstances. Assistance was rendered by

Chinese labourers, and though at first they proved indifferent in the

manipulation of tools, their assistance ultimately proved invaluable,

as the majority developed into expert workmen.

As in other parts of the country, the inhabitants were favoured so

far as possible in regard to the acquisition of horses, which were

necessary for teaming and haulage work generally, in a district where

steam traction engines were quite out of the question. The camps

were provided also, so far as practicable, with local produce. In

this territory, however, a serious situation was precipitated. The

harvest failed, and the peasants were faced with starvation. Then the

dreaded disease known locally as “Siberia” ravaged the country. It is

a plague analogous to the rinderpest of South Africa, and has wrought

tremendous havoc throughout the eastern corner of the Russian Empire,

its effects being experienced along the shores of the Pacific. In 1898,

this calamity assumed such proportions that work had to be brought to

a standstill for lack of transportation facilities. The Government

attempted to alleviate the situation by organising a special veterinary

service to study the plague on the spot, with a view to elaborating

some palliative measures. In order to meet the local deficiency the

engineers were compelled to dispatch emissaries into Mongolia to

purchase the hardy beasts of burden peculiar to that country. Large

herds were acquired in this manner and were driven several hundred

miles to the grade.

By means of this section the railway was carried so far east as

Stretensk, from which point the line was to be continued to Khabarovsk.

A modification in the arrangements, however, took place. Under the

original scheme the line was to traverse Russian territory entirely,

although Manchuria thrust its border so far to the north as to demand a

wide detour in order to gain Vladivostok. At last, however, it became

possible to carry the railway into Manchuria, and as a link was being

built across this country, affording a short-cut to the seaboard, the

Amur railway was abandoned, a short length being built to the Chinese

frontier to connect with the Eastern Chinese railways instead.

The result is that the extreme eastern end of the line comes to a

dead-end at Khabarovsk, and in itself is far from being remunerative.

At the time the engineers appeared on the scene the territory had not

been explored, signs of settlement were very few and far between, there

were no roads, and the population was composed mostly of exiles and

prisoners deported from Europe. Construction had to be carried out

almost exclusively by convicts, assisted by the military, Chinese and

Corean labour. The climate being extremely humid in summer, the work

during that period proved terribly exacting, and the difficulties were

enhanced by the ravages of the cattle plague. All material, being

manufactured in European Russia, had to be brought to the extreme

eastern end by water, either via the Suez Canal or the Cape of Good

Hope, and consequently delays were frequent and often serious for both

grade and men.

The primeval forest was terrible to penetrate owing to the huge trees,

which, although they provided ample material for constructional

purposes, demanded considerable effort and time for their removal

from the right-of-way. As the conquest of Manchuria commenced while

this work was in progress, and a shorter cut to Vladivostok was being

provided, a spur was driven westwards from Nikolsk to the Chinese

frontier to meet the Manchurian railway.

Owing to the rearrangement of the railway chess-board in the East in

consequence of the Russo-Japanese war, it is quite possible that the

Trans-Siberian railway will be completed as originally planned--that

is, through Russian territory entirely, by the completion of the Amur

railway from Stretensk to Khabarovsk.

The total cost of the through main line as now in operation was

approximately £33,000,000, or $165,000,000. When the various other

works incidental to the scheme, such as the connections with the

Chinese frontier, are included, the total approaches the enormous

figure of £40,000,000, or $200,000,000. This merely represents the

building of the track itself between Kotlass in European Russia--now

considered a part of the scheme--and Vladivostok, without a single

railway car, wagon or engine. As originally designed, the capacity of

the line was fixed at three trains each way per day, but the lightness

of the construction did not permit this being maintained when the

railway was subjected to great pressure, such as attended the transport

of troops to the East.

The overhaul of the line was commenced immediately, and the question

of doubling the track taken into serious consideration. This latter

work is now in progress, and it is estimated that this task alone will

represent a prodigious expenditure.

The effect of the railway upon the movement of traffic around the

northern hemisphere became manifested immediately. There were two ways

in which China and the East generally could be gained from Europe.

One route was by steamer all the way via the Suez Canal, the second

was by way of the Atlantic, across America by rail, and by steamship

across the Pacific. But the Trans-Siberian route was far and away the

shortest and quickest, and as the campaign of overhaul is proceeding,

acceleration is taking place. Now it is possible to reach Shanghai from

London within 16 days, and one can encircle the northern half of the

world in less than 40 days.

The extreme precautions observed to preserve communication on the

line are noteworthy. The whole railway is divided into sections, each

measuring 1,174 yards in length. Each station is provided with a

cottage housing the station-master, his family and the employees. Some

4000 of these officials are scattered along the route between the Ural

Mountains and the city of Tomsk. The men have a common uniform, which

is rather of a military appearance, and it is no uncommon experience to

hear passengers unfamiliar with this feature remark that the line is

guarded from end to end by soldiers. As a matter of fact, it is just

the same as if the various employees of our railways, such as porters,

signalmen, guards, ticket-collectors, and so forth, were attired in

khaki.

The Railway Conquest of the World · 第 16 / 26 章