six leagues broad at its mouth, enters about six leagues into the
land.[54]
[_The Bay of São Braz_].[55]
Late on Saturday, November 25, the day of St. Catherine’s, we entered
the bay (angra) of Sam Brás, where we remained for thirteen days, for
there we broke up our store-ship and transferred her contents to the
other vessels.[56]
On Friday [December 1], whilst still in the bay of Sam Brás, about
ninety men resembling those we had met at St. Helena Bay made their
appearance. Some of them walked along the beach, whilst others
remained upon the hills. All, or most of us, were at the time in the
captain-major’s vessel. As soon as we saw them we launched and armed
the boats, and started for the land. When close to the shore the
captain-major threw them little round bells, which they picked up. They
even ventured to approach us, and took some of these bells from the
captain-major’s hand. This surprised us greatly, for when Bartholomeu
Dias[57] was here the natives fled without taking any of the objects
which he offered them. Nay, on one occasion, when Dias was taking in
water, close to the beach, they sought to prevent him, and when they
pelted him with stones, from a hill, he killed one of them with the
arrow of a cross-bow. It appeared to us that they did not fly on this
occasion, because they had heard from the people at the bay of St.
Helena (only sixty leagues distant by sea)[58] that there was no harm
in us, and that we even gave away things which were ours.
The captain-major did not land at this spot, because there was much
bush, but proceeded to an open part of the beach, when he made signs
to the negroes to approach. This they did. The captain-major and the
other captains then landed, being attended by armed men, some of whom
carried cross-bows. He then made the negroes understand, by signs, that
they were to disperse, and to approach him only singly or in couples.
To those who approached he gave small bells and red caps, in return
for which they presented him with ivory bracelets, such as they wore
on their arms, for it appears that elephants are plentiful in this
country. We actually found some of their droppings near the watering
place where they had gone to drink.
On Saturday [December 2] about two hundred negroes came, both young
and old. They brought with them about a dozen oxen and cows and four
or five sheep. As soon as we saw them we went ashore. They forthwith
began to play on four or five flutes,[59] some producing high notes and
others low ones, thus making a pretty harmony for negroes who are not
expected to be musicians; and they danced in the style of negroes. The
captain-major then ordered the trumpets to be sounded, and we, in the
boats, danced, and the captain-major did so likewise when he rejoined
us. This festivity ended, we landed where we had landed before, and
bought a black ox for three bracelets. This ox we dined off on Sunday.
We found him very fat, and his meat as toothsome as the beef of
Portugal.
On Sunday [December 3] many visitors came, and brought with them their
women and little boys, the women remaining on the top of a hill near
the sea. They had with them many oxen and cows. Having collected in
two spots on the beach, they played and danced as they had done on
Saturday. It is the custom of this people for the young men to remain
in the bush with their weapons. The [older] men came to converse with
us. They carried a short stick in the hand, attached to which was a
fox’s tail, with which they fan the face. Whilst conversing with them,
by signs, we observed the young men crouching in the bush, holding
their weapons in their hands. The captain-major then ordered Martin
Affonso, who had formerly been in Manicongo [Congo] to advance, and
to buy an ox, for which purpose he was supplied with bracelets. The
natives, having accepted the bracelets, took him by the hand, and,
pointing to the watering place, asked him why we took away their
water, and simultaneously drove their cattle into the bush. When the
captain-major observed this he ordered us to gather together, and
called upon Martin Affonso to retreat, for he suspected some treachery.
Having drawn together we proceeded [in our boats] to the place where
we had been at first. The negroes followed us. The captain-major then
ordered us to land, armed with lances, assegais, and strung cross-bows,
and wearing our breast-plates, for he wanted to show that we had the
means of doing them an injury, although we had no desire to employ
them. When they observed this they ran away. The captain-major, anxious
that none should be killed by mischance, ordered the boats to draw
together; but to prove that we were able, although unwilling to hurt
them, he ordered two bombards to be fired from the poop of the long
boat. They were by that time all seated close to the bush, not far
from the beach, but the first discharge caused them to retreat so
precipitately that in their flight they dropped the skins with which
they were covered and their weapons. When they were in the bush two of
them turned back to pick up the articles which had been dropped. They
then continued their flight to the top of a hill, driving their cattle
before them.
The oxen of this country are as large as those of Alemtejo, wonderfully
fat and very tame. They are geldings, and hornless. Upon the fattest
among them the negroes place a packsaddle made of reeds, as is done
in Castille, and upon this saddle they place a kind of litter made of
sticks, upon which they ride. If they wish to sell an ox they pass a
stick through his nostrils, and thus lead him.
There is an island in this bay, three bowshots from the land, where
there are many seals.[60] Some of these are as big as bears, very
formidable, with large tusks. These attack man, and no spear, whatever
the force with which it is thrown, can wound them. There are others
much smaller and others quite small. And whilst the big ones roar like
lions, the little ones cry like goats. One day, when we approached this
island for our amusement, we counted, among large and small ones, three
thousand, and we fired among them with our bombards from the sea. On
the same island there are birds as big as ducks, but they cannot fly,
because they have no feathers on their wings. These birds, of whom we
killed as many as we chose, are called Fotylicayos, and they bray like
asses.[61]
Whilst taking in water in this bay of Sam Brás, on a Wednesday,
we erected a cross and a pillar.[62] The cross was made out of a
mizzen-mast, and very high. On the following Thursday [December 7],
when about to set sail, we saw about ten or twelve negroes, who
demolished both the cross and the pillar before we had left.
[_São Braz to Natal._]
Having taken on board all we stood in need of we took our departure,
but as the wind failed us we anchored the same day, having proceeded
only two leagues.
On Friday morning, the day of the Immaculate Concepcion [December 8],
we again set sail. On Tuesday [December 12], the eve of Santa Lucia,
we encountered a great storm, and ran before a stern-wind with the
foresail much lowered. On that day we lost sight of Nicolau Coelho, but
at sunset we saw him from the top four or five leagues astern, and it
seemed as if he saw us too. We exhibited signal lights and lay to. By
the end of the first watch he had come up with us, not because he had
seen us during the day, but because the wind, being scant, he could not
help coming in our waters.
On the morning of Friday [December 15] we saw the land near the Ilhéos
chãos (Flat Islands). These are five leagues beyond the Ilhéo da Cruz
(Cross Island). From the Bay of Sam Brás to Cross Island is a distance
of sixty leagues, and as much from the Cape of Good Hope to the Bay
of Sam Brás. From the Flat Islands to the last pillar erected by
Bartholomeu Dias is five leagues, and from this pillar to the Rio do
Infante is fifteen leagues.[63]
On Saturday [December 16] we passed the last pillar, and as we ran
along the coast we observed two men running along the beach in a
direction contrary to that which we followed. The country about here
is very charming and well wooded; we saw much cattle, and the further
we advanced the more did the character of the country improve, and the
trees increase in size.
During the following night we lay to. We were then already beyond the
last discovery made by Bartholomeu Dias.[64] On the next day [December
17], till vespers, we sailed along the coast before a stern-wind, when
the wind springing round to the east we stood out to sea. And thus we
kept making tacks until sunset on Tuesday [December 19], when the wind
again veered to the west. We then lay to during the night, in order
that we might on the following day examine the coast and find out where
we were.
In the morning [December 20] we made straight for the land, and at ten
o’clock found ourselves once more at the Ilhéo da Cruz (Cross Island),
that is sixty leagues abaft our dead reckoning! This was due to the
currents, which are very strong here.[65]
That very day we again went forward by the route we had already
attempted, and being favoured during three or four days by a strong
stern-wind, we were able to overcome the currents which we had feared
might frustrate our plans. Henceforth it pleased God in His mercy to
allow us to make headway! We were not again driven back. May it please
Him that it be thus alway!
[_Natal._]
By Christmas Day, the 25th of December, we had discovered seventy
leagues of coast [beyond Dias’ furthest]. On that day, after dinner,
when setting a bonnet, we discovered that the mast had sprung ... and
... secured it with lashings below the top, and that the crack opened
and shut. We patched it up with backstays, hoping to be able to repair
it thoroughly as soon as we should reach a sheltered port.
On Thursday [December 28] we anchored near the coast, and took much
fish.[66] At sunset we again set sail and pursued our route. At that
place the mooring-rope snapped and we lost an anchor.
We now went so far out to sea, without touching any port, that
drinking-water began to fail us, and our food had to be cooked with
salt water. Our daily ration of water was reduced to a quartilho.[67]
It thus became necessary to seek a port.
[_Terra da boa Gente and Rio do Cobre._]
On Thursday, January 11th [1498][68] we discovered a small river and
anchored near the coast. On the following day we went close in shore in
our boats, and saw a crowd of negroes, both men and women. They were
tall people, and a chief (“Senhor”) was among them. The captain-major
ordered Martin Affonso, who had been a long time in Manicongo, and
another man, to land. They were received hospitably. The captain-major
in consequence sent the chief a jacket, a pair of red pantaloons, a
Moorish cap and a bracelet. The chief said that we were welcome to
anything in his country of which we stood in need: at least this is
how Martin Affonso understood him. That night, Martin Affonso and his
companion accompanied the chief to his village, whilst we returned to
the ships. On the road the chief donned the garments which had been
presented to him, and to those who came forth to meet him he said with
much apparent satisfaction, “Look, what has been given to me!” The
people upon this clapped hands as a sign of courtesy, and this they did
three or four times until he arrived at the village. Having paraded the
whole of the place, thus dressed up, the chief retired to his house,
and ordered his two guests to be lodged in a compound, where they were
given porridge of millet, which abounds in that country, and a fowl,
just like those of Portugal. All the night through, numbers of men and
women came to have a look at them. In the morning the chief visited
them, and asked them to go back to the ships. He ordered two men to
accompany them, and gave them fowls as a present for the captain-major,
telling them at the same time that he would show the things that had
been given him to a great chief, who appears to be the king of that
country. When our men reached the landing place where our boats awaited
them, they were attended by quite two hundred men, who had come to see
them.
This country seemed to us to be densely peopled. There are many
chiefs,[69] and the number of women seems to be greater than that of
the men, for among those who came to see us there were forty women
to every twenty men. The houses are built of straw. The arms of the
people include long bows and arrows and spears with iron blades. Copper
seems to be plentiful, for the people wore [ornaments] of it on their
legs and arms and in their twisted hair. Tin, likewise, is found in
the country, for it is to be seen on the hilts of their daggers, the
sheaths of which are made of ivory. Linen cloth is highly prized by
the people, who were always willing to give large quantities of copper
in exchange for shirts. They have large calabashes in which they carry
sea-water inland, where they pour it into pits, to obtain the salt [by
evaporation].
We stayed five days at this place, taking in water, which our visitors
conveyed to our boats. Our stay was not, however, sufficiently
prolonged to enable us to take in as much water as we really needed,
for the wind favoured a prosecution of our voyage.
We were at anchor here, near the coast, exposed to the swell of the
sea. We called the country _Terra da Boa Gente_ (land of good people),
and the river _Rio do Cobre_ (copper river).[70]
[_Rio dos Bons Signaes._][71]
On Monday [January 22] we discovered a low coast thickly wooded with
tall trees. Continuing our course we perceived the broad mouth of a
river. As it was necessary to find out where we were, we cast anchor.
On Thursday [January 25], at night, we entered. The _Berrio_ was
already there, having entered the night before—that is eight days
before the end of January [_i.e._, January 24.][72]
The country is low and marshy, and covered with tall trees yielding an
abundance of various fruits, which the inhabitants eat.
These people are black and well made. They go naked, merely wearing a
piece of cotton stuff around their loins, that worn by the women being
larger than that worn by the men. The young women are good-looking.
Their lips are pierced in three places, and they wear in them bits of
twisted tin. These people took much delight in us. They brought us in
their _almadias_[73] what they had, whilst we went into their village
to procure water.
When we had been two or three days at this place two gentlemen
(senhores) of the country came to see us. They were very haughty, and
valued nothing which we gave them. One of them wore a _touca_,[74] with
a fringe embroidered in silk, and the other a cap of green satin. A
young man in their company—so we understood from their signs—had come
from a distant country, and had already seen big ships like ours. These
tokens (signaes) gladdened our hearts, for it appeared as if we were
really approaching the bourne of our desires. These gentlemen had some
huts built on the river bank, close to the ships, in which they stayed
seven days, sending daily to the ships, offering to barter cloths which
bore a mark of red ochre. And when they were tired of being there, they
left in their _almadias_ for the upper river.
As to ourselves, we spent thirty-two days[75] in the river taking
in water, careening the ships,[76] and repairing the mast of the
_Raphael_. Many of our men fell ill here, their feet and hands
swelling, and their gums growing over their teeth, so that they could
not eat.[77]
We erected here a pillar which we called the pillar of St. Raphael,[78]
because it had been brought in the ship bearing that name. The river we
called Rio dos Bons Signaes (River of good signs or tokens).
[_To Moçambique._]
On Saturday [February 24] we left this place and gained the open sea.
During the night we stood N.E., so as to keep away from the land, which
was very pleasing to look upon. On Sunday [February 25] we still stood
N.E., and at vesper time discovered three small islands, out in the
open, of which two were covered with tall trees, while the third and
smallest was barren. The distance from one island to the other was four
leagues.[79]
On the following day we pursued our route, and did so during six days,
lying to at night.[80]
On Thursday, the 1st of March, we sighted islands and the mainland,
but as it was late we again stood out to sea, and lay to till morning.
We then approached the land, of which I shall speak in what follows.
[_Moçambique._][81]
On Friday morning [March 2] Nicolau Coelho, when attempting to enter
the bay, mistook the channel and came upon a bank. When putting about
ship, towards the other ships which followed in his wake, Coelho
perceived some sailing boats approaching from a village on this island,
in order to welcome the captain-major and his brother. As for ourselves
we continued in the direction of our proposed anchorage, these boats
following us all the while, and making signs for us to stop. When
we had cast anchor in the roadstead of the island from which these
boats had come, there approached seven or eight of them, including
_almadias_, the people in them playing upon _anafils_.[82] They invited
us to proceed further into the bay, offering to take us into port if we
desired it. Those among them who boarded our ships ate and drank what
we did, and went their way when they were satisfied.[83]
The captain thought that we should enter this bay in order that we
might find out what sort of people we had to deal with; that Nicolau
Coelho should go first in his vessel, to take soundings at the
entrance, and that, if found practicable, we should follow him. As
Coelho prepared to enter he struck the point of the island and broke
his helm, but he immediately disengaged himself and regained deep
water. I was with him at the time. When we were again in deep water we
struck our sails and cast anchor at a distance of two bowshots from the
village.[84]
The people of this country are of a ruddy complexion[85] and well
made. They are Mohammedans, and their language is the same as that of
the Moors.[86] Their dresses are of fine linen or cotton stuffs, with
variously coloured stripes, and of rich and elaborate workmanship.
They all wear _toucas_ with borders of silk embroidered in gold. They
are merchants, and have transactions with white Moors, four of whose
vessels were at the time in port, laden with gold, silver, cloves,
pepper, ginger, and silver rings, as also with quantities of pearls,
jewels,[87] and rubies, all of which articles are used by the people
of this country. We understood them to say that all these things, with
the exception of the gold, were brought thither by these Moors; that
further on, where we were going to, they abounded, and that precious
stones, pearls and spices were so plentiful that there was no need
to purchase them as they could be collected in baskets. All this we
learned through a sailor the captain-major had with him, and who,
having formerly been a prisoner among the Moors, understood their
language.[88]
These Moors, moreover, told us that along the route which we were about
to follow we should meet with numerous shoals; that there were many
cities along the coast, and also an island, one half the population of
which consisted of Moors and the other half of Christians,[89] who were
at war with each other. This island was said to be very wealthy.
We were told, morever, that Prester John[90] resided not far from
this place; that he held many cities along the coast, and that the
inhabitants of those cities were great merchants and owned big ships.
The residence of Prester John was said to be far in the interior, and
could be reached only on the back of camels. These Moors had also
brought hither two Christian captives from India.[91] This information,
and many other things which we heard, rendered us so happy that we
cried with joy, and prayed God to grant us health, so that we might
behold what we so much desired.
In this place and island of Moncobiquy [Moçambique] there resided
a chief [senhor] who had the title of Sultan, and was like a
vice-roy.[92] He often came aboard our ships attended by some of his
people. The captain-major gave him many good things to eat, and made
him a present of hats, _marlotas_,[93] corals and many other articles.
He was, however, so proud that he treated all we gave him with
contempt, and asked for scarlet cloth, of which we had none. We gave
him, however, of all the things we had.
One day the captain-major invited him to a repast, when there was an
abundance of figs and comfits, and begged him for two pilots to go with
us. He at once granted this request, subject to our coming to terms
with them. The captain-major gave each of them thirty mitkals[94] in
gold and two _marlotas_, on condition that from the day on which they
received this payment one of them should always remain on board if the
other desired to go on land. With these terms they were well satisfied.
On Saturday, March 10, we set sail and anchored one league out at sea,
close to an island,[95] where mass was said on Sunday, when those who
wished to do so confessed and joined in the communion.
One of our pilots lived on the island, and when we had anchored we
armed two boats to go in search of him. The captain-major went in
one boat and Nicolau Coelho in the other. They were met by five or
six boats (barcas) coming from the island, and crowded with people
armed with bows and long arrows and bucklers,[96] who gave them to
understand by signs that they were to return to the town. When the
captain saw this he secured the pilot whom he had taken with him, and
ordered the bombards to fire upon the boats. Paulo da Gama, who had
remained with the ships, so as to be prepared to render succour in case
of need, no sooner heard the reports of the bombards than he started in
the _Berrio_. The Moors, who were already flying, fled still faster,
and gained the land before the _Berrio_ was able to come up with them.
We then returned to our anchorage.
The vessels of this country are of good size and decked. There are no
nails, and the planks are held together by cords,[97] as are also those
of their boats (barcos). The sails are made of palm-matting.[98] Their
mariners have Genoese needles,[99] by which they steer, quadrants, and
navigating charts.
The palms of this country yield a fruit as large as a melon, of which
the kernel is eaten.[100] It has a nutty flavour. There also grow in
abundance melons and cucumbers, which were brought to us for barter.
On the day in which Nicolau Coelho entered the port, the Lord of the
place came on board with a numerous suite. He was received well,
and Coelho presented him with a red hood, in return for which the
Lord handed him a black rosary, which he made use of when saying his
prayers, to be held as a pledge. He then begged Nicolau Coelho for the
use of his boat, to take him ashore. This was granted. And after he had
landed he invited those who had accompanied him to his house, where he
gave them to eat. He then dismissed them, giving them a jar of bruised
dates made into a preserve with cloves and cumin, as a present for
Nicolau Coelho. Subsequently he sent many things to the captain-major.
All this happened at the time when he took us for Turks or for Moors
from some foreign land, for in case we came from Turkey he begged to be
shown the bows of our country and our books of the Law. But when they
learnt that we were Christians they arranged to seize and kill us by
treachery. The pilot, whom we took with us, subsequently revealed to us
all they intended to do, if they were able.
[_False Start and Return to Moçambique._]
On Sunday [March 11] we celebrated mass beneath a tall tree on the
island [of S. Jorge]. We returned on board and at once set sail, taking
with us many fowls, goats and pigeons, which had been given us in
exchange for small glass-beads.