of a cape. The coast near the cape was sparsely covered with trees,
resembling elms. We were at that time over twenty leagues from our
starting-place, and there we remained becalmed during Tuesday and
Wednesday. During the following night we stood off shore with a light
easterly wind, and in the morning [March 15] found ourselves four
leagues abaft Moçambique, but we went again forward on that day until
the evening, when we anchored once more close to the island [of S.
Jorge] on which mass had been celebrated the preceding Sunday, and
there we remained eight days waiting for a favourable wind.
During our stay here the King of Moçambique sent word that he wanted to
make peace with us and to be our friend. His ambassador was a white
Moor and sharif,[101] that is priest, and at the same time a great
drunkard.
Whilst at this place a Moor with his little son came on board one of
our ships, and asked to be allowed to accompany us, as he was from
near Mecca, and had come to Moçambique as pilot of a vessel from that
country.
As the weather did not favour us it became necessary once more to enter
the port of Moçambique, in order to procure the water of which we stood
in need, for the watering place is on the mainland. This water is drunk
by the inhabitants of the island, for all the water they have there is
brackish.[102]
On Thursday [March 22] we entered the port, and when it grew dark we
lowered our boats. At midnight the captain-major and Nicolau Coelho,
accompanied by some of us, started in search of water. We took with
us the Moorish pilot, whose object appeared to be to make his escape,
rather than to guide us to a watering-place. As a matter of fact he
either would not or could not find a watering-place, although we
continued our search until morning. We then withdrew to our ships.
In the evening [March 23] we returned to the main land, attended by the
same pilot. On approaching the watering-place we saw about twenty men
on the beach. They were armed with assegais, and forbade our approach.
The captain-major upon this ordered three bombards to be fired upon
them, so that we might land. Having effected our landing, these men
fled into the bush, and we took as much water as we wanted. When the
sun was about to set we discovered that a negro belonging to João de
Coimbra had effected his escape.
On Sunday morning, the 24th of March, being the eve of Lady Day, a
Moor came abreast our ships, and [sneeringly] told us that if we
wanted water we might go in search of it, giving us to understand
that we should meet with something which would make us turn back. The
captain-major no sooner heard this [threat] than he resolved to go, in
order to show that we were able to do them harm if we desired it. We
forthwith armed our boats, placing bombards in their poops, and started
for the village [town]. The Moors had constructed palisades by lashing
planks together, so that those behind them could not be seen. They were
at the time walking along the beach, armed with assegais, swords,[103]
bows, and slings, with which they hurled stones at us. But our bombards
soon made it so hot for them that they fled behind their palisades;
but this turned out to their injury rather than their profit. During
the three hours that we were occupied in this manner [bombarding the
town] we saw two men killed, one on the beach and the other behind the
palisades. When we were weary of this work we retired to our ships to
dine. They at once began to fly, carrying their chattels in _almadias_
to a village on the mainland.
After dinner we started in our boats, in the hope of being able to make
a few prisoners, whom we might exchange for the two Indian Christians
whom they held captive and the negro who had deserted. With this
object in view we chased an _almadia_, which belonged to the sharif
and was laden with his chattels, and another in which were four
negroes.[104] The latter was captured by Paulo da Gama, whilst the one
laden with chattels was abandoned by the crew as soon as they reached
the land. We took still another _almadia_ which had likewise been
abandoned. The negroes we took on board our ships. In the _almadias_
we found fine cotton-stuffs, baskets made of palm-fronds, a glazed
jar containing butter, glass phials with scented water, books of the
Law, a box containing skeins of cotton, a cotton net, and many small
baskets filled with millet. All these things, with the exception of
the books, which were kept back to be shown to the king, were given by
the captain-major to the sailors who were with him and with the other
captains.
On Sunday [March 25] we took in water, and on Monday we proceeded in
our armed boats to the village, when the inhabitants spoke to us from
their houses, they daring no longer to venture on the beach. Having
discharged a few bombards at them we rejoined our ships.
On Tuesday [March 27] we left the town and anchored close to the islets
of São Jorge,[105] where we remained for three days, in the hope that
God would grant us a favourable wind.
[_Moçambique to Mombaça_].
On Thursday, the 29th of March, we left these islets of S. Jorge, and
as the wind was light, we only covered twenty-eight leagues up to the
morning of Saturday, the 31st of the month.[106]
In the morning of that day we were once more abreast of the land of
the Moors, from which powerful currents had previously carried us.[107]
On Sunday, April 1, we came to some islands close to the mainland.
The first of these we called _Ilha do Açoutado_ (“Island of the
flogged-one”), because of the flogging inflicted upon our Moorish
pilot, who had lied to the captain on Saturday night, by stating that
these islands were the mainland. Native craft take their course between
these islands and the mainland, where the water is four fathoms deep,
but we kept outside of them. These islands are numerous, and we were
unable to distinguish one from the other; they are inhabited.
On Monday [April 2] we sighted other islands five leagues off the
shore.[108]
On Wednesday, the 4th of April, we made sail to the N.W., and before
noon we sighted an extensive country, and two islands close to it,
surrounded with shoals. And when we were near enough for the pilots to
recognise these islands, they told us that we had left three leagues
behind us an island[109] inhabited by Christians. We manœuvred all
day in the hope of fetching this island, but in vain, for the wind was
too strong for us. After this we thought it best to bear away for a
city called Mombaça, reported to be four days ahead of us.
The above island was one of those which we had come to discover, for
our pilots said that it was inhabited by Christians.
When we bore away for the north it was already late, and the wind was
high. At nightfall we perceived a large island, which remained to the
north of us.[110] Our pilot told us that there were two towns on this
island, one of Christians and the other of Moors.
That night we stood out to sea, and in the morning [April 5] we no
longer saw the land. We then steered to the N.W., and in the evening
we again beheld the land. During the following night we bore away to
the N. by W., and during the morning-watch we changed our course to
the N.N.W. Sailing thus before a favourable wind, the _S. Raphael_,
two hours before break of day [April 6], ran aground on a shoal, about
two leagues from the land. Immediately the _Raphael_ touched bottom,
the vessels following her were warned by shouts, and these were no
sooner heard than they cast anchor about the distance of a gunshot from
the stranded vessel, and lowered their boats. When the tide fell the
_Raphael_ lay high and dry. With the help of the boats many anchors
were laid out, and when the tide rose again, in the course of the day,
the vessel floated and there was much rejoicing.
On the mainland, facing these shoals, there rises a lofty range of
mountains, beautiful of aspect. These mountains we called _Serras de
São Raphael_, and we gave the same name to the shoals.[111]
Whilst the vessel was high and dry, two _Almadias_ approached us. One
was laden with fine oranges, better than those of Portugal. Two of the
Moors remained on board, and accompanied us next day to Mombaça.
On Saturday morning, the 7th of the month, and eve of Palm Sunday,
we ran along the coast and saw some islands at a distance of fifteen
leagues from the mainland, and about six leagues in extent. They supply
the vessels of the country with masts. All are inhabited by Moors.[112]
[_Mombaça_].
On Saturday [April 7] we cast anchor off Mombaça, but did not enter
the port. No sooner had we been perceived than a _zavra_[113] manned
by Moors came out to us: in front of the city there lay numerous
vessels all dressed in flags.[114] And we, anxious not to be outdone,
also dressed our ships, and we actually surpassed their show, for we
wanted in nothing but men, even the few whom we had being very ill.
We anchored here with much pleasure, for we confidently hoped that on
the following day we might go on land and hear mass jointly with the
Christians reported to live there under their own _alcaide_[115] in a
quarter separate from that of the Moors.
[Illustration: Native Craft in the Harbour of Mombasa.
(_From a photograph by the late Capt. Foot, R.N._)]
The pilots who had come with us told us there resided both Moors and
Christians in this city; that these latter lived apart under their
own lords, and that on our arrival they would receive us with much
honour and take us to their houses. But they said this for a purpose
of their own, for it was not true. At midnight there approached us a
_zavra_ with about a hundred men, all armed with cutlasses (tarçados)
and bucklers. When they came to the vessel of the captain-major they
attempted to board her, armed as they were, but this was not permitted,
only four or five of the most distinguished men among them being
allowed on board. They remained about a couple of hours, and it seemed
to us that they paid us this visit merely to find out whether they
might not capture one or the other of our vessels.
On Palm Sunday [April 8] the King of Mombaça sent the captain-major a
sheep and large quantities of oranges, lemons and sugar-cane, together
with a ring, as a pledge of safety, letting him know that in case of
his entering the port he would be supplied with all he stood in need
of. This present was conveyed to us by two men, almost white, who said
they were Christians, which appeared to be the fact. The captain-major
sent the king a string of coral-beads as a return present, and let
him know that he purposed entering the port on the following day. On
the same day the captain-major’s vessel was visited by four Moors of
distinction.
Two men were sent by the captain-major to the king, still further to
confirm these peaceful assurances. When these landed they were followed
by a crowd as far as the gates of the palace. Before reaching the king
they passed through four doors, each guarded by a doorkeeper with a
drawn cutlass. The king received them hospitably, and ordered that they
should be shown over the city. They stopped on their way at the house
of two Christian merchants, who showed them a paper (carta), an object
of their adoration, on which was a sketch of the Holy Ghost.[116] When
they had seen all, the king sent them back with samples of cloves,
pepper and corn,[117] with which articles he would allow us to load our
ships.
On Tuesday [April 10], when weighing anchor to enter the port, the
captain-major’s vessel would not pay off, and struck the vessel which
followed astern. We therefore again cast anchor. When the Moors who
were in our ship saw that we did not go on, they scrambled into a
_zavra_ attached to our stern; whilst the two pilots whom we had
brought from Moçambique jumped into the water, and were picked up by
the men in the _zavra_. At night the captain-major “questioned” two
Moors [from Moçambique][118] whom we had on board, by dropping boiling
oil upon their skin, so that they might confess any treachery intended
against us. They said that orders had been given to capture us as
soon as we entered the port, and thus to avenge what we had done at
Moçambique. And when this torture was being applied a second time, one
of the Moors, although his hands were tied, threw himself into the sea,
whilst the other did so during the morning watch.
About midnight two _almadias_, with many men in them, approached. The
_almadias_ stood off whilst the men entered the water, some swimming
in the direction of the _Berrio_, others in that of the _Raphael_.
Those who swam to the _Berrio_ began to cut the cable. The men on watch
thought at first that they were tunny fish, but when they perceived
their mistake they shouted to the other vessels. The other swimmers had
already got hold of the rigging of the mizzen-mast. Seeing themselves
discovered, they silently slipped down and fled. These and other wicked
tricks were practised upon us by these dogs, but our Lord did not
allow them to succeed, because they were unbelievers.
[Illustration: A Tower at Mombasa.
(_From a photograph by Sir John Kirk._)]
Mombaça is a large city seated upon an eminence washed by the sea. Its
port is entered daily by numerous vessels. At its entrance stands a
pillar, and by the sea a low-lying fortress.[119] Those who had gone on
shore told us that in the town they had seen many men in irons; and it
seemed to us that these must be Christians, as the Christians in that
country are at war with the Moors.
The Christian merchants in the town are only temporary residents, and
are held in much subjection, they not being allowed to do anything
except by the order of the Moorish King.
It pleased God in his mercy that on arriving at this city all our sick
recovered their health, for the climate (“air”) of this place is very
good.
After the malice and treachery planned by these dogs had been
discovered, we still remained on Wednesday and Thursday [April 11 and
12].[120]
[_Mombaça to Malindi._]
We left in the morning [April 13], the wind being light, and anchored
about eight leagues from Mombaça, close to the shore. At break of day
[April 14] we saw two boats (_barcas_) about three leagues to the
leeward, in the open sea, and at once gave chase, with the intention of
capturing them, for we wanted to secure a pilot who would guide us to
where we wanted to go. At vesper-time we came up with one of them, and
captured it, the other escaping towards the land. In the one we took we
found seventeen men, besides gold, silver, and an abundance of maize
and other provisions; as also a young woman, who was the wife of an old
Moor of distinction, who was a passenger. When we came up with the boat
they all threw themselves into the water, but we picked them up from
our boats.
That same day [April 14] at sunset, we cast anchor off a place called
Milinde (Malindi),[121] which is thirty leagues from Mombaça. The
following places are between Mombaça and Milinde, viz., Benapa, Toça
and Nuguoquioniete.[122]
[_Malindi._][123]
On Easter Sunday [April 15] the Moors whom we had taken in the boat
told us that there were at this city of Melinde four vessels belonging
to Christians from India,[124] and that if it pleased us to take them
there, they would provide us, instead of them, Christian pilots and
all we stood in need of, including water, wood and other things. The
captain-major much desired to have pilots from the country, and having
discussed the matter with his Moorish prisoners, he cast anchor off
the town, at a distance of about half a league from the mainland. The
inhabitants of the town did not venture to come aboard our ships, for
they had already learnt that we had captured a vessel and made her
occupants prisoners.
On Monday morning [April 16] the captain-major had the old Moor
taken to a sandbank in front of the town, where he was picked up by
an _almadia_.[125] The Moor explained to the king the wishes of the
captain-major, and how much he desired to make peace with him. After
dinner the Moor came back in a _zavra_, accompanied by one of the
king’s cavaliers and a sharif: he also brought three sheep. These
messengers told the captain-general that the king would rejoice to make
peace with him, and to enter into friendly relations; that he would
willingly grant to the captain-major all his country afforded, whether
pilots or anything else. The captain-major upon this sent word that
he proposed to enter the port on the following day, and forwarded by
the king’s messengers a present consisting of a _balandrau_,[126] two
strings of coral, three wash-hand basins, a hat, little bells and two
pieces of _lambel_.[127]
Consequently, on Tuesday [April 17] we approached nearer to the town.
The king sent the captain-major six sheep, besides quantities of
cloves, cumin, ginger, nutmeg and pepper, as also a message, telling
him that if he desired to have an interview with him he (the king)
would come out in his _zavra_, when the captain-major could meet him in
a boat.
On Wednesday [April 18], after dinner, when the king came up close to
the ships in a _zavra_, the captain-major at once entered one of his
boats, which had been well furnished, and many friendly words were
exchanged when they lay side by side. The king having invited the
captain-major to come to his house to rest, after which he (the king)
would visit him on board his ship, the captain-major said that he was
not permitted by his master to go on land, and if he were to do so a
bad report would be given of him. The king wanted to know what would be
said of himself by his people if he were to visit the ships, and what
account could he render them? He then asked for the name of our king,
which was written down for him, and said that on our return he would
send an ambassador with us, or a letter.
When both had said all they desired, the captain-major sent for the
Moors whom he had taken prisoner, and surrendered them all. This gave
much satisfaction to the king, who said that he valued this act more
highly than if he had been presented with a town. And the king, much
pleased, made the circuit of our ships, the bombards of which fired a
salute. About three hours were spent in this way. When the king went
away he left in the ship one of his sons and a sharif, and took two of
us away with him, to whom he desired to show his palace. He, moreover,
told the captain that as he would not go ashore he would himself return
on the following day to the beach, and would order his horsemen to go
through some exercises.
The king wore a robe (royal cloak) of damask trimmed with green satin,
and a rich _touca_. He was seated on two cushioned chairs of bronze,
beneath a round sunshade of crimson satin attached to a pole. An old
man, who attended him as page, carried a short sword in a silver
sheath. There were many players on _anafils_, and two trumpets of
ivory,[128] richly carved, and of the size of a man, which were blown
from a hole in the side, and made sweet harmony with the _anafils_.
[Illustration: A Siwa Blower.
(_From a photograph by Sir John Kirk._)]
On Thursday [April 19] the captain-major and Nicolau Coelho rowed along
the front of the town, bombards having been placed in the poops of
their long-boats. Many people were along the shore, and among them two
horsemen, who appeared to take much delight in a sham-fight. The king
was carried in a palanquin from the stone steps of his palace to the
side of the captain-major’s boats. He again begged the captain to come
ashore, as he had a helpless father who wanted to see him, and that
he and his sons would go on board the ships as hostages. The captain,
however, excused himself.[129]
We found here four vessels belonging to Indian Christians. When
they came for the first time on board Paulo da Gama’s ship, the
captain-major being there at the time, they were shown an altar-piece
representing Our Lady at the foot of the cross, with Jesus Christ in
her arms and the apostles around her. When the Indians saw this picture
they prostrated themselves, and as long as we were there they came to
say their prayers in front of it, bringing offerings of cloves, pepper,
and other things.[130]
These Indians are tawny men; they wear but little clothing and have
long beards and long hair, which they braid. They told us that they ate
no beef. Their language differs from that of the Arabs, but some of
them know a little of it, as they hold much intercourse with them.
On the day on which the captain-major went up to the town in the boats,
these Christian Indians fired off many bombards from their vessels,
and when they saw him pass they raised their hands and shouted lustily
_Christ! Christ!_[131]
That same night they asked the king’s permission to give us a
night-fête. And when night came they fired off many bombards, sent up
rockets, and raised loud shouts.
These Indians warned the captain-major against going on shore, and told
him not to trust to their “fanfares”, as they neither came from their
hearts nor from their good will.
On the following Sunday, the 22nd of April, the king’s _zavra_ brought
on board one of his confidential servants, and as two days had passed
without any visitors, the captain-major had this man seized, and sent
word to the king that he required the pilots whom he had promised. The
king, when he received this message, sent a Christian pilot,[132] and
the captain-major allowed the gentleman, whom he had retained in his
vessel, to go away.
We were much pleased with the Christian pilot whom the king had sent
us. We learnt from him that the island of which we heard at Moçambique
as being inhabited by Christians was in reality an island subject to
this same King of Moçambique; that half of it belonged to the Moors and
the other half to the Christians; that many pearls were to be found
there, and that it was called Quyluee.[133] This is the island the
Moorish pilots wanted to take us to, and we also wished to go there,
for we believed that what they said was true.
The town of Malindi lies in a bay and extends along the shore. It
may be likened to Alcouchette.[134] Its houses are lofty and well
white-washed, and have many windows; on the landside are palm-groves,
and all around it maize and vegetables are being cultivated.
We remained in front of this town during nine days,[135] and all this
time we had fêtes, sham-fights, and musical performances (“fanfares”).
[_Across the Gulf—the Arabian Sea._]
We left Malindi on Tuesday, the 24th of the month [of April] for a city
called Qualecut [Calecut], with the pilot whom the king had given us.
The coast there runs north and south, and the land encloses a huge bay
with a strait. In this bay,[136] we were told, were to be found many
large cities of Christians and Moors, including one called Quambay
[Cambay], as also six-hundred known islands, and within it the Red Sea
and the “house” [Kaabah] of Mecca.
On the following Sunday [April 29] we once more saw the North Star,
which we had not seen for a long time.
On Friday, the 18th of May,[137] after having seen no land for
twenty-three days,[138] we sighted lofty mountains, and having all
this time sailed before the wind we could not have made less than 600
leagues. The land, when first sighted,[139] was at a distance of eight
leagues, and our lead reached bottom at forty-five fathoms. That same
night we took a course to the S.S.W., so as to get away from the coast.
On the following day [May 19] we again approached the land, but owing
to the heavy rain and a thunderstorm,[140] which prevailed whilst we
were sailing along the coast, our pilot was unable to identify the
exact locality. On Sunday [May 20] we found ourselves close to some
mountains,[141] and when we were near enough for the pilot to recognise
them he told us that they were above Calecut, and that this was the
country we desired to go to.
[_Calecut._]
[_Arrival._] That night [May 20] we anchored two leagues from the city
of Calecut, and we did so because our pilot mistook _Capua_,[142] a
town at that place, for Calecut. Still further[143] there is another
town called _Pandarani_.[144] We anchored about a league and a half
from the shore. After we were at anchor, four boats (_almadias_)
approached us from the land, who asked of what nation we were. We told
them, and they then pointed out Calecut to us.