About one o’clock they began the _mai_, or dances; the first of which

was almost a copy of the first that was exhibited at Mareewagee’s

entertainment. The second was conducted by Captain Furneaux’s Toobou,

who, as we mentioned, had also danced there; and in this, four or five

women were introduced, who went through the several parts with as much

exactness as the men. Toward the end, the performers divided to leave

room for two champions, who exercised their clubs as described on a

former occasion. And, in the third dance, which was the last now

presented, two more men with their clubs displayed their dexterity. The

dances were succeeded by wrestling and boxing; and one man entered the

lists with a sort of club made from the stem of a cocoa-leaf, which is

firm and heavy, but could find no antagonist to engage him at so rough a

sport. At night we had the _bomai_ repeated; in which Poulaho himself

danced, dressed in English manufacture. But neither these nor the dances

in the day-time were so considerable, nor carried on with so much

spirit, as Feenou’s or Mareewagee’s; and, therefore, there is less

occasion to be more particular in our description of them.

In order to be present the whole time, I dined ashore. The king sat down

with us; but he neither ate nor drank. I found that this was owing to

the presence of a female, whom, at his desire, I had admitted to the

dining party; and who, as we afterward understood, had superior rank to

himself. As soon as this great personage had dined, she stepped up to

the king, who put his hands to her feet, and then she retired. He

immediately dipped his fingers into a glass of wine, and then received

the obeisance of all her followers. This was the single instance we ever

observed of his paying this mark of reverence to any person. At the

king’s desire, I ordered some fire-works to be played off in the

evening; but, unfortunately, being damaged, this exhibition did not.

answer expectation.

CHAP. VIII.

SOME OF THE OFFICERS PLUNDERED BY THE NATIVES.—A FISHING PARTY.—A VISIT

TO POULAHO.—A FIATOOKA DESCRIBED.—OBSERVATIONS ON THE COUNTRY

ENTERTAINMENT AT POULAHO’S HOUSE.—HIS MOURNING CEREMONY.—OF THE KAVA

PLANT, AND THE MANNER OF PREPARING THE LIQUOR.—ACCOUNT OF ONEVY, A

LITTLE ISLAND.—ONE OF THE NATIVES WOUNDED BY A SENTINEL.—MESSRS. KING

AND ANDERSON VISIT THE KING’S BROTHER.—THEIR ENTERTAINMENT.—ANOTHER

MOURNING CEREMONY.—MANNER OF PASSING THE NIGHT.—REMARKS ON THE COUNTRY

THEY PASSED THROUGH.—PREPARATIONS MADE FOR SAILING.—AN ECLIPSE OF THE

SUN, IMPERFECTLY OBSERVED.—MR. ANDERSON’S ACCOUNT OF THE ISLAND, AND

ITS PRODUCTIONS.

As no more entertainments were to be expected, on either side, and the

curiosity of the populace was by this time pretty well satisfied; on the

day after Poulaho’s _haiva_, most of them left us. We still, however,

had thieves about us; and, encouraged by the negligence of our own

people, we had continual instances of their depredations.

Some of the officers, belonging to both ships, who had made an excursion

into the interior parts of the island, without my leave, and, indeed,

without my knowledge, returned this evening, after an absence of two

days. They had taken with them their muskets, with the necessary

ammunition, and several small articles of the favourite commodities; all

which the natives had the dexterity to steal from them, in the course of

their expedition. This affair was likely to be attended with

inconvenient consequences. For our plundered travellers upon their

return, without consulting me, employed Omai to complain to the king of

the treatment they had met with. He, not knowing what step I should

take, and, from what had already happened, fearing lest I might lay him

again under restraint, went off early the next morning. His example was

followed by Feenou; so that we had not a chief, of any authority,

remaining in our neighbourhood. I was very much displeased at this, and

reprimanded Omai for having presumed to meddle. This reprimand put him

upon his metal to bring his friend Feenou back; and he succeeded in the

negotiation; having this powerful argument to urge, that he might depend

upon my using no violent measures to oblige the natives to restore what

had been taken from the gentlemen. Feenou, trusting to this declaration,

returned toward the evening; and, encouraged by his reception, Poulaho

favoured us with his company the day after.

Both these chiefs, upon this occasion, very justly observed to me, that

if any of my people at any time wanted to go into the country, they

ought to be acquainted with it; in which case they would send proper

people along with them; and then they would be answerable for their

safety. And I am convinced, from experience, that by taking this very

reasonable precaution, a man and his property may be as safe among these

islanders, as in other parts of the more civilized world. Though I gave

myself no trouble about the recovery of the things stolen upon this

occasion, most of them, through Feenou’s interposition, were recovered;

except one musket, and a few other articles of inferior value. By this

time also, we had recovered the turkey-cock, and most of the tools, and

other matters, that had been stolen from our workmen.

On the 25th, two boats, which I had sent to look for a channel, by which

we might most commodiously get to sea, returned. The masters, who

commanded them, reported that the channel to the north, by which we came

in, was highly dangerous, being full of coral rocks from one side to the

other; but that, to the eastward, there was a very good channel; which,

however, was very much contracted in one place by the small islands; so

that a leading wind would be requisite to get through it; that is, a

westerly wind, which we had found did not often blow here. We had now

recruited the ships with wood and water; we had finished the repairs of

our sails; and had little more to expect from the inhabitants of the

produce of their island. However, as an eclipse of the sun was to happen

upon the 5th of the next month, I resolved to defer sailing till that

time had elapsed, in order to have a chance of observing it.

Having, therefore, some days of leisure before me, a party of us,

accompanied by Poulaho, set out early next morning in a boat, for Mooa,

the village where he and the other great men usually reside. As we rowed

up the inlet, we met with fourteen canoes fishing in company; in one of

which was Poulaho’s son. In each canoe was a triangular net, extended

between two poles; at the lower end of which was a cod to receive and

secure the fish. They had already caught some fine mullets; and they put

about a dozen into our boat. I desired to see their method of fishing;

which they readily complied with. A shoal of fish was supposed to be

upon one of the banks, which they instantly inclosed in a long net like

a seine, or set-net. This the fishers, one getting into the water out of

each boat, surrounded with the triangular nets in their hands; with

which they scooped the fish out of the seine, or caught them as they

attempted to leap over it. They showed us the whole process of this

operation (which seemed to be a sure one), by throwing in some of the

fish they had already caught; for, at this time, there happened to be

none upon the bank that was inclosed.

Leaving the prince and his fishing party, we proceeded to the bottom of

the bay, and landed where we had done before, on our fruitless errand to

see Mareewagee. As soon as we got on shore, the king desired Omai to

tell me, that I need be under no apprehensions about the boat, or any

thing in her, for not a single article would be touched by any one; and

we afterward found this to be the case. We were immediately conducted to

one of Poulaho’s houses not far off, and near the public one, or

_malaee_, in which we had been when we first visited Mooa. This, though

pretty large, seemed to be his private habitation, and was situated

within a plantation. The king took his seat at one end of the house, and

the people, who came to visit him, sat down as they arrived, in a

semicircle at the other end. The first thing done, was to prepare a bowl

of _kava_, and to order some yams to be baked for us. While these were

getting ready, some of us, accompanied by a few of the king’s

attendants, and Omai as our interpreter, walked out to take a view of a

_fiatooka_, or burying-place, which we had observed to be almost close

by the house, and was much more extensive, and seemingly of more

consequence, than any we had seen at the other islands. We were told,

that it belonged to the king. It consisted of three pretty large houses,

situated upon a rising ground, or rather just by the brink of it, with a

small one at some distance, all ranged longitudinally. The middle house

of the three first was by much the largest, and placed in a square,

twenty-four paces by twenty-eight, raised about three feet. The other

houses were placed on little mounts, raised artificially to the same

height. The floors of these houses, as also the tops of the mounts round

them, were covered with loose fine pebbles, and the whole was inclosed

by large flat stones[188] of hard coral rock, properly hewn, placed on

their edges; one of which stones measured twelve feet in length, two in

breadth, and above one in thickness. One of the houses, contrary to what

we had seen before, was open on one side; and within it were two rude

wooden busts of men; one near the entrance, and the other farther in. On

inquiring of the natives who had followed us to the ground, but durst

not enter here, what these images were intended for, they made us as

sensible as we could wish, that they were merely memorials of some

chiefs who had been buried there, and not the representations of any

deity. Such monuments, it should seem, are seldom raised; for these had

probably been erected several ages ago. We were told that the dead had

been buried in each of these houses, but no marks of this appeared. In

one of them was the carved head of an Otaheite canoe, which had been

driven ashore on their coast, and deposited here. At the foot of the

rising ground was a large area, or grass-plot, with different trees

planted about it; amongst which were several of those called _etoa_,

very large. These, as they resemble the cypress, had a fine effect in

such a place. There was also a row of low palms near one of the houses,

and behind it a ditch, in which lay a great number of old baskets.

After dinner, or rather after we had refreshed ourselves with some

provisions which we had brought with us from our ship, we made an

excursion into the country, taking a pretty large circuit, attended by

one of the king’s ministers. Our train was not great, as he would not

suffer the rabble to follow us. He also obliged all those whom we met

upon our progress, to sit down till we had passed; which is a mark of

respect due only to their sovereigns. We found by far the greatest part

of the country cultivated, and planted with various sorts of

productions; and most of these plantations were fenced round. Some

spots, where plantations had been formerly, now produced nothing, lying

fallow; and there were places that had never been touched, but lay in a

state of nature; and yet, even these were useful in affording them

timber, as they were generally covered with trees. We met with several

large uninhabited houses, which we were told belonged to the king. There

were many public and well-beaten roads, and abundance of foot-paths

leading to every part of the island. The roads being good and the

country level, travelling was very easy. It is remarkable, that when we

were on the most elevated parts, at least a hundred feet above the level

of the sea, we often met with the same coral rock which is found at the

shore, projecting above the surface, and perforated and cut into all

those inequalities which are usually seen in rocks that lie within the

wash of the tide. And yet these very spots, with hardly any soil upon

them, were covered with luxuriant vegetation. We were conducted to

several little pools, and to some springs of water; but in general, they

were either stinking or brackish, though recommended to us by the

natives as excellent. The former were mostly inland, and the latter,

near the shore of the bay, and below high-water mark; so that tolerable

water could be taken up from them only when the tide was out.

When we returned from our walk, which was not till the dusk of the

evening, our supper was ready. It consisted of a baked hog, some fish,

and yams, all excellently well cooked, after the method of these

islands. As there was nothing to amuse us after supper, we followed the

custom of the country, and lay down to sleep, our beds being mats spread

upon the floor, and cloth to cover us. The king, who had made himself

very happy with some wine and brandy which we had brought, slept in the

same house, as well as several others of the natives. Long before

day-break, he and they all rose, and sat conversing by moon-light. The

conversation, as might well be guessed, turned wholly upon us; the king

entertaining his company with an account of what he had seen, or

remarked. As soon as it was day they dispersed, some one way and some

another; but it was not long before they all returned, and with them

several more of their countrymen.

They now began to prepare a bowl of _kava_; and, leaving them so

employed, I went to pay a visit to Toobou, Captain Furneaux’s friend,

who had a house hard by, which, for size and neatness, was exceeded by

few in the place. As I had left the others, so I found here a company

preparing a morning draught. This chief made a present to me of a living

hog, a baked one, a quantity of yams, and a large piece of cloth. When I

returned to the king, I found him and his circle of attendants, drinking

the second bowl of _kava_. That being emptied, he told Omai, that he was

going presently to perform a mourning ceremony, called _Tooge_, on

account of a son who had been dead some time; and he desired us to

accompany him. We were glad of the opportunity, expecting to see

somewhat new or curious.

The first thing the chief did, was to step out of the house, attended by

two old women, and put on a new suit of clothes, or rather a new piece

of cloth, and over it an old ragged mat, that might have served his

great grandfather on some such occasion. His servants, or those who

attended him, were all dressed in the same manner, excepting that none

of their mats could vie in antiquity with that of their master. Thus

equipped we marched off, preceded by about eight or ten persons, all in

the above habits of ceremony, each of them besides, having a small green

bough about his neck. Poulaho held his bough in his hand till we drew

near the place of rendezvous, when he also put it about his neck. We now

entered a small inclosure in which was a neat house, and we found one

man sitting before it. As the company entered they pulled off the green

branches from round their necks, and threw them away. The king having

first seated himself, the others sat down before him in the usual

manner. The circle increased by others dropping in to the number of a

hundred or upward, mostly old men, all dressed as above described. The

company being completely assembled, a large root of _kava_, brought by

one of the king’s servants, was produced, and a bowl which contained

four or five gallons. Several persons now began to chew the root, and

this bowl was made brimful of liquor. While it was preparing others were

employed in making drinking cups of plantain leaves. The first cup that

was filled was presented to the king, and he ordered it to be given to

another person. The second was also brought to him, which he drank, and

the third was offered to me. Afterward as each cup was filled, the man

who filled it asked who was to have it? Another then named the person,

and to him it was carried. As the bowl grew low, the man who distributed

the liquor seemed rather at a loss to whom cups of it should be next

sent, and frequently consulted those who sat near him. This mode of

distribution continued while any liquor remained; and though not half

the company had a share, yet no one seemed dissatisfied. About half a

dozen cups served for all; and each as it was emptied, was thrown down

upon the ground, where the servants picked it up, and carried it to be

filled again. During the whole time the chief and his circle sat, as was

usually the case, with a great deal of gravity, hardly speaking a word

to each other.

We had long waited in expectation each moment of seeing the mourning

ceremony begin; when, soon after the _kava_ was drank out, to our great

surprise and disappointment they all rose up and dispersed; and Poulaho

told us he was now ready to attend us to the ships. If this was a

mourning ceremony, it was a strange one. Perhaps it was the second,

third, or fourth mourning; or, which was not very uncommon, Omai might

have misunderstood what Poulaho said to him. For, excepting the change

of dress, and the putting the green bough round their necks, nothing

seemed to have passed at this meeting but what we saw them practise too

frequently every day.

“[189]We had seen the drinking of _kava_ sometimes at the other island,

but by no means so frequently as here, where it seems to be the only

forenoon employment of the principal people. The _kava_ is a species of

pepper which they cultivate for this purpose, and esteem it a valuable

article, taking great care to defend the young plants from any injury;

and it is commonly planted about their houses. It seldom grows to more

than a man’s height; though I have seen some plants almost double that.

It branches considerably, with large heart-shaped leaves and jointed

stalks. The root is the only part that is used at the Friendly Islands,

which being dug up, is given to the servants that attend, who, breaking

it in pieces, scrape the dirt off with a shell or bit of stick, and then

each begins and chews his portion, which he spits into a piece of

plantain leaf. The person who is to prepare the liquor, collects all

these mouthfuls, and puts them into a large wooden dish or bowl, adding

as much water as will make it of a proper strength. It is then well

mixed up with the hands; and some loose stuff, of which mats are made,

is thrown upon the surface, which intercepts the fibrous part, and is

wrung hard to get as much liquid out from it as is possible. The manner

of distributing it need not be repeated. The quantity which is put into

each cup, is commonly about a quarter of a pint. The immediate effect of

this beverage is not perceptible on these people who use it so

frequently; but on some of ours who ventured to try it, though so

hastily prepared, it had the same power as spirits have in intoxicating

them; or rather, it produced that kind of stupefaction which is the

consequence of using opium, or other substances of that kind. It should

be observed, at the same time, that though these islanders have this

liquor always fresh prepared, and I have seen them drink it seven times

before noon, it is, nevertheless, so disagreeable, or at least seems so,

that the greatest part of them cannot swallow it without making wry

faces, and shuddering afterward.”

As soon as this mourning ceremony was over, we left Mooa, and set out to

return to the ships. While we rowed down the _lagoon_ or inlet, we met

with two canoes coming in from fishing. Poulaho ordered them to be

called alongside our boat, and took from them every fish and shell they

had got. He afterward stopped two other canoes and searched them, but

they had nothing. Why this was done I cannot say, for we had plenty of

provisions in the boat. Some of this fish he gave to me; and his

servants sold the rest on board the ship. As we proceeded down the

inlet, we overtook a large sailing canoe. Every person on board her that

was upon his legs when we came up, sat down till we had passed; even the

man who steered, though he could not manage the helm except in a

standing posture.

Poulaho and others having informed me that there was some excellent

water on Onevy, a little island which lies about a league off the mouth

of the inlet, and on the north side of the eastern channel, we landed

there in order to taste it. But I found it to be as brackish as most

that we had met with. This island is quite in a natural state, being

only frequented as a fishing place, and has nearly the same productions

as Palmerston’s Island, with some _etoa_ trees. After leaving Onevy,

where we dined, in our way to the ship, we took a view of a curious

coral rock, which seems to have been thrown upon the reef where it

stands. It is elevated about ten or twelve feet above the surface of the

sea that surrounds it. The base it rests upon is not above one-third of

the circumference of its projecting summit, which I judged to be about

one hundred feet, and is covered with _etoa_ and _pandanus_ trees.

When we got on board the ship, I found that every thing had been quiet

during my absence, not a theft having been committed; of which Feenou

and Futtafaihe, the king’s brother, who had undertaken the management of

his countrymen, boasted not a little. This shows what power the chiefs

have when they have the will to execute it, which we were seldom to

expect, since whatever was stolen from us, generally, if not always, was

conveyed to them.

The good conduct of the natives was of short duration; for the next day

six or eight of them assaulted some of our people who were sawing

planks. They were fired upon by the sentry; and one was supposed to be

wounded, and three others taken. These I kept confined till night, and

did not dismiss them without punishment. After this they behaved with a

little more circumspection, and gave us much less trouble. This change

of behaviour was certainly occasioned by the man being wounded; for,

before they had only been told of the effect of fire-arms, but now they

had felt it. The repeated insolence of the natives had induced me to

order the muskets of the sentries to be loaded with small shot, and to

authorize them to fire on particular occasions. I took it for granted,

therefore, that this man had only been wounded with small shot. But Mr.

King and Mr. Anderson, in an excursion into the country, met with him,

and found indubitable marks of his having been wounded, but not

dangerously, with a musket ball. I never could find out how this musket

happened to be charged with ball; and there were people enough ready to

swear that its contents were only small shot.

Mr. Anderson’s account of the excursion just mentioned, will fill up an

interval of two days, during which nothing of note happened at the

ships: “Mr. King and I went, on the 30th, along with Futtafaihe as

visitors to his house, which is at Mooa, very near that of his brother

Poulaho. A short time after we arrived, a pretty large hog was killed;

which is done by repeated strokes on the head. The hair was then scraped

off very dexterously with the sharp edge of pieces of split bamboo;

taking the entrails out at a large oval hole cut in the belly by the

same simple instrument. Before this, they had prepared an oven; which is

a large hole dug in the earth, filled at the bottom with stones about

the size of the first, over which a fire is made till they are red hot.

They took some of these stones wrapt up in leaves of the bread-fruit

tree, and filled the hog’s belly, stuffing in a quantity of leaves to

prevent their falling out, and putting a plug of the same kind in the

_anus_. The carcase was then placed on some sticks laid across the

stones in a standing posture, and covered with a great quantity of

plantain leaves. After which they dug up the earth all round; and having

thus effectually closed the oven, the operation of baking required no

farther interference.

“In the mean time we walked about the country, but met with nothing

remarkable except a _fiatooka_ of one house, standing on an artificial

mount, at least thirty feet high. A little on one side of it was a

pretty large open area; and, not far off, was a good deal of

uncultivated ground; which, on inquiring why it lay waste, our guides

seemed to say, belonged to the _fiatooka_ (which was Poulaho’s), and was

not, by any means to be touched. There was also, at no great distance, a

number of _etoa_ trees, on which clung vast numbers of the large

_ternate_ bats, making a disagreeable noise. We could not kill any at

this time for want of muskets; but some that were got at Annamooka

measured near three feet when the wings were extended. On our returning

to Futtafaihe’s house, he ordered the hog that had been dressed to be

produced, with several baskets of baked yams, and some cocoa-nuts. But

we found, that instead of his entertaining us, we were to entertain him;

the property of the feast being entirely transferred to us as his

guests, and we were to dispose of it as we pleased. The same person who

cleaned the hog in the morning now cut it up (but not before we desired

him,) in a very dexterous manner, with a knife of split bamboo; dividing

the several parts, and hitting the joints with a quickness and skill

that surprised us very much. The whole was set down before us, though at

least fifty pounds weight, until we took a small piece away, and desired

that they would share the rest amongst the people sitting round. But it

was not without a great many scruples they did that at last; and then

they asked what particular persons they should give it to. However they

were very well pleased when they found that it was not contrary to any

custom of ours; some carrying off the portion they had received, and

others eating it upon the spot. It was with great difficulty that we

could prevail upon Futtafaihe himself to eat a small bit.

“After dinner we went with him and five or six people, his attendants,

toward the place where Poulaho’s mourning ceremony was transacted, the

last time we were at Mooa; but we did not enter the inclosure. Every

person who went with us, had the mat tied over his cloth, and some

leaves about the neck, as had been done on the former occasion; and when

we arrived at a large open boat-house, where a few people were, they

threw away their leaves, sat down before it, and gave their cheeks a few

gentle strokes with the first; after which they continued sitting for

about ten minutes, with a very grave appearance, and then dispersed

without having spoken a single word. This explained what Poulaho had

mentioned about _Tooge_; though, from the operation only lasting a few

seconds, he had not been observed to perform it. And this seems to be

only a continuation of the mourning ceremony by way of condolence. For,

upon inquiring on whose account it was now performed, we were told that

it was for a chief who had died at Vavavoo some time ago; that they had

practised it ever since, and should continue to do so for a considerable

time longer.

“In the evening we had a pig dressed as the hog, with yams and

cocoa-nuts, brought for supper; and Futtafaihe finding that we did not

like the scruples they had made before, to accept of any part of the

entertainment, asked us immediately to share it, and give it to whom we

pleased. When supper was over, abundance of cloth was brought for us to

sleep in; but we were a good deal disturbed by a singular instance of

luxury, in which their principal men indulge themselves, that of being

beat while they are asleep. Two women sat by Futtafaihe and performed

this operation, which is called _tooge tooge_, by beating briskly on his

body and legs with both fists as on a drum, till he fell asleep, and

continuing it the whole night with some short intervals. When once the

person is asleep they abate a little in the strength and quickness of

the beating; but resume it, if they observe any appearance of his

awaking. In the morning, we found that Futtafaihe’s women relieved each

other, and went to sleep by turns. In any other country it would be

supposed that such a practice would put an end to all rest; but here it

certainly acts as an opiate, and is a strong proof of what habit may

effect. The noise of this, however, was not the only thing that kept us

awake; for the people who passed the night in the house, not only

conversed amongst each other frequently, as in the day, but all got up

before it was light, and made a hearty meal on fish and yams, which were

brought to them by a person who seemed to know very well the appointed

time for this nocturnal refreshment.

“Next morning we set out with Futtafaihe, and walked down the east side

of the bay to the point. The country all along this side is well

cultivated; but, in general, not so much inclosed as at Mooa; and

amongst many other plantain fields that we passed, there was one at

least a mile long, which was in excellent order, every tree growing with

great vigour. We found that, in travelling, Futtafaihe exercised a

power, though by no means wantonly, which pointed out the great

authority of such principal men; or is, perhaps, only annexed to those

of the royal family. For he sent to one place for fish, to another for

yams, and so on, at other places; and all his orders were obeyed with

the greatest readiness, as if he had been absolute master of the

people’s property. On coming to the point, the natives mentioned

something of one who, they said, had been fired at by some of our

people; and, upon our wishing to see him, they conducted us to a house,

where we found a man who had been shot through the shoulder, but not

dangerously, as the ball had entered a little above the inner part of

the collar bone, and passed out obliquely backward. We were sure, from

the state of the wound, that he was the person who had been fired at by

one of the centinels, three days before; though positive orders had been

given, that none of them should load their pieces with any thing but

small shot. We gave some directions to his friends how to manage the

wound, to which no application had been made; and they seemed pleased

when we told them it would get well in a certain time. But, on our going

away, they asked us to send the wounded man some yams and other things

for food; and in such a manner, that we could not help thinking they

considered it to be our duty to support him till he should get well.

“In the evening we crossed the bay to our station, in a canoe which

Futtafaihe had exercised his prerogative in procuring, by calling to the

first that passed by. He had also got a large hog at this place; and

brought a servant from his house with a bundle of cloth, which he wanted

us to take with us as a present from him. But the boat being small, we

objected; and he ordered it to be brought over to us the next day.”

I had prolonged my stay at this island on account of the approaching

eclipse; but, on the second of July, on looking at the micrometer

belonging to the board of longitude, I found some of the rack work

broken, and the instrument useless till repaired; which there was not

time to do before it was intended to be used. Preparing now for our

departure, I got on board this day all the cattle, poultry, and other

animals, except such as were destined to remain. I had designed to leave

a turkey-cock and hen; but having now only two of each undisposed of,

one of the hens, through the ignorance of one of my people, was

strangled, and died upon the spot. I had brought three turkey-hens to

these islands. One was killed as above mentioned; and the other by an

useless dog belonging to one of the officers. These two accidents put it

out of my power to leave a pair here; and, at the same time, to carry

the breed to Otaheite, for which island they were originally intended. I

was sorry afterward that I did not give the preference to Tongataboo, as

the present would have been of more value there than at Otaheite; for

the natives of the former island, I am persuaded, would have taken more

pains to multiply the breed.

The next day we took up our anchor, and moved the ships behind

Pangimodoo, that we might be ready to take the advantage of the first

favourable wind to get through the narrows. The king, who was one of our

company this day at dinner, I observed took particular notice of the

plates. This occasioned me to make him an offer of one, either of

pewter, or of earthen ware. He chose the first; and then began to tell

us the several uses to which he intended to apply it. Two of them are so

extraordinary, that I cannot omit mentioning them. He said, that

whenever he should have occasion to visit any of the other islands, he

would leave this plate behind him at Tongataboo, as a sort of

representative in his absence, that the people might pay it the same

obeisance they do to himself in person. He was asked what had been

usually employed for this purpose before he got this plate; and we had

the satisfaction of learning from him that this singular honour had

hitherto been conferred on a wooden bowl in which he washed his hands.

The other extraordinary use to which he meant to apply it in the room of

his wooden bowl, was to discover a thief. He said, that when any thing

was stolen, and the thief could not be found out, the people were all

assembled before him, when he washed his hands in water in this vessel;

after which it was cleaned, and then the whole multitude advanced, one

after another, and touched it in the same manner that they touch his

foot when they pay him obeisance. If the guilty person touched it, he

died immediately upon the spot; not by violence, but by the hand of

Providence; and if any one refused to touch it, his refusal was a clear

proof that he was the man.

In the morning of the 5th, the day of the eclipse, the weather was dark

and cloudy, with showers of rain; so that we had little hopes of an

observation. About nine o’clock the sun broke out at intervals for about

half an hour; after which it was totally obscured till within a minute

or two of the beginning of the eclipse. We were all at our telescopes,

viz. Mr. Bayly, Mr. King, Captain Clerke, Mr. Bligh, and myself. I lost

the observation by not having a dark glass at hand, suitable to the

clouds that were continually passing over the sun; and Mr. Bligh had not

got the sun into the field of his telescope; so that the commencement of

the eclipse was only observed by the other three gentlemen, and by them

with an uncertainty of several seconds, as follows:

H. M. S.

By Mr. Bayly, at 11 46 23-1/2}

Mr. King, at 11 46 28 } Apparent time.

Capt. Clerke, at 11 47 5 }

Mr. Bayly and Mr. King observed with the achromatic telescopes,

belonging to the board of longitude, of equal magnifying powers; and

Captain Clerke observed with one of the reflectors. The sun appeared at

intervals, till about the middle of the eclipse; after which it was seen

no more during the day; so that the end could not be observed. The

disappointment was of little consequence, since the longitude was more

than sufficiently determined, independently of this eclipse, by lunar

observations, which will be mentioned hereafter.

As soon as we knew the eclipse to be over, we packed up the instruments,

took down the observatories, and sent every thing on board that had not

been already removed. As none of the natives had taken the least notice

or care of the three sheep allotted to Mareewagee, I ordered them to be

carried back to the ships. I was apprehensive, that, if I had left them

here, they run great risk of being destroyed by dogs. That animal did

not exist upon this island, when I first visited it in 1773; but I now

found they had got a good many, partly from the breed then left by

myself, and partly from some, imported since that time, from an island

not very remote, called Feejee. The dogs, however, at present, had not

found their way into any of the Friendly Islands, except Tongataboo; and

none but the chiefs there had as yet got possession of any.

Being now upon the eve of our departure from this Island, I shall add

some particulars about it, and its productions, for which I am indebted

to Mr. Anderson. And, having spent as many weeks there, as I had done

days[190] when I visited it in 1773, the better opportunities that now

occurred, of gaining more accurate information, and the skill of that

gentleman, in directing his inquiries, will, in some measure, supply the

imperfection of my former account of this island.

“Amsterdam, Tongataboo, or (as the natives also very frequently call it)

Tonga, is about twenty leagues in circuit, somewhat oblong, though, by

much, broadest at the east end; and its greatest length from east to

west. The south shore, which I saw in 1773, is straight, and consists of

coral rocks, eight or ten feet high, terminating perpendicularly, except

in some places, where it is interrupted by small sandy beaches; on

which, at low water, a range of black rocks may be seen. The west end is

not above five or six miles broad, but has a shore somewhat like that of

the south side; whereas the whole north side is environed with shoals

and islands, and the shore within them low and sandy. The east side or

end is, most probably, like the south; as the shore begins to assume a

rocky appearance toward the north east point, though not above seven or

eight feet high.

“The island may, with the greatest propriety, be called a low one, as

the trees, on the west part, where we now lay at anchor, only appeared;

and the only eminent part, which can be seen from a ship, is the south

east point; though many gently rising and declining grounds are

observable by one who is ashore. The general appearance of the country

does not afford that beautiful kind of landscape that is produced from a

variety of hills and valleys, lawns, rivulets, and cascades; but, at the

same time, it conveys to the spectator an idea of the most exuberant

fertility, whether we respect the places improved by art, or those still

in a natural state; both which yield all their vegetable productions

with the greatest vigour, and perpetual verdure. At a distance, the

surface seems entirely clothed with trees of various sizes; some of

which are very large. But above the rest, the tall cocoa-palms always

raise their tufted heads; and are far from being the smallest ornament

to any country that produces them. The _boogo_, which is a species of

fig, with narrow-pointed leaves, is the largest sized tree of the

island; and on the uncultivated spots, especially toward the sea, the

most common bushes and small trees are the _pandanus_; several sorts of

_hibiscus_; the _faitanoo_, mentioned more than once in the course of

our voyage; and a few others. It ought also to be observed, that though

the materials for forming grand landscapes are wanting, there are many

of what might, at least, be called neat prospects, about the cultivated

grounds and dwelling-places; but more especially about the _fiatookas_;

where sometimes art, and sometimes nature, has done much to please the

eye.

“From the situation of Tongataboo, toward the tropic, the climate is

more variable, than in countries farther within that line; though,

perhaps, that might be owing to the season of the year, which was now

the winter solstice. The winds are, for the most part from some point

between south and east; and, when moderate, are commonly attended with

fine weather. When they blow fresher, the weather is often cloudy,

though open; and, in such cases, there is frequently rain. The wind

sometimes veers to the north-east, north north-east, or even north

north-west, but never lasts long, nor blows strong from thence; though

it is commonly accompanied by heavy rain, and close sultry weather. The

quick succession of vegetables has been already mentioned; but I am not

certain that the changes of weather, by which it is brought about, are

considerable enough to make them perceptible to the natives as to their

method of life, or rather that they should be very sensible of the

different seasons. This perhaps, may be inferred from the state of their

vegetable productions, which are never so much affected, with respect to

the foliage, as to shed that all at once; for every leaf is succeeded by

another, as fast as it falls; which causes that appearance of universal

and continual spring found here.

“The basis of the island, as far as we know, is entirely a coral rock,

which is the only sort that presents itself on the shore. Nor did we see

the least appearance of any other stone, except a few small blue pebbles

strewed about the _fiatookas_; and the smooth, solid black stone,

something like the _lapis lydius_, of which the natives make their

hatchets. But these may, probably, have been brought from other islands

in the neighbourhood; for a piece of slatey, iron-coloured stone was

bought at one of them, which was never seen here. Though the coral

projects in many places above the surface, the soil is, in general, of a

considerable depth. In all cultivated places, it is commonly of a loose

black colour; produced, seemingly, in a great measure, from the rotten

vegetables that are planted there. Underneath which is, very probably, a

clayey _stratum_; for a soil of that kind is often seen both in the low,

and in the rising grounds; but especially in several places toward the

shore, where it is of any height; and, when broken off, appears

sometimes of a reddish, though oftener of a brownish yellow colour, and

of a pretty stiff consistence. Where the shore is low, the soil is

commonly sandy, or rather composed of triturated coral; which, however,

yields bushes growing with great luxuriance; and is sometimes planted,

not unsuccessfully, by the natives.

“Of cultivated fruits, the principal are plantains; of which they have

fifteen different sorts or varieties; bread-fruit; two sorts of fruit

found at Otaheite, and known there under the names of _jambu_ and

_eeevee_; the latter a kind of plumb; and vast numbers of shaddocks,

which, however, are found as often in a natural state as planted.

“The roots are yams, of which are two sorts; one black, and so large,

that it often weighs twenty or thirty pounds; the other white and long,

seldom weighing a pound; a large root called _kappe_; one not unlike our

white potatoes, called _mawhaha_; the _talo_, or _coccos_ of other

places; and another, named _jeejee_.

“Besides vast numbers of cocoa-nut trees, they have three other sorts of

palms, two of which are very scarce. One of them is called _beeoo_;

which grows almost as high as the cocoa-tree, has very large leaves

platted like a fan, and clusters or bunches of globular nuts, not larger

than a small pistol ball, growing amongst the branches, with a very hard

kernel, which is sometimes eaten. The other is a kind of cabbage-tree,

not distinguishable from the cocoa, but by being rather thicker, and by

having its leaves more ragged. It has a cabbage three or four feet long;

at the top of which are the leaves, and at the bottom the fruit, which

is scarcely two inches long, resembling an oblong cocoa-nut, with an

insipid tenacious kernel, called, by the natives, _neeoogoola_, or red

cocoa-nut, as it assumes a reddish cast when ripe. The third sort is

called _ongo ongo_, and much commoner, being generally found planted

about their _fiatookas_. It seldom grows higher than five feet, though

sometimes to eight; and has a vast number of oval compressed nuts, as

large as a pippin, sticking immediately to the trunk, amongst the

leaves, which are not eaten. There is plenty of excellent sugar-cane,

which is cultivated; gourds; bamboo; turmeric; and a species of fig,

about the size of a small cherry, called _matte_, which, though wild, is

sometimes eaten. But the catalogue of uncultivated plants is too large

to be enumerated here. Besides the _pemphis decaspermum_, _mallococca_,

_maba_, and some other new genera, described by Doctor Foster[191],

there are a few more found here; which perhaps the different seasons of

the year, and his short stay, did not give him an opportunity to take

notice of. Although it did not appear, during our longer stay, that

above a fourth part of the trees, and other plants, were in flower; a

circumstance absolutely necessary to enable one to distinguish the

various kinds.

“The only quadrupeds besides hogs are a few rats, and some dogs, which

are not natives of the place, but produced from some left by us in 1773,

and by others got from Feejee. Fowls, which are of a large breed, are

domesticated here.

“Amongst the birds are parrots, somewhat smaller than the common grey

ones, of an indifferent green on the back and wings, the tail blueish,

and the rest of a sooty or chocolate brown; parroquets not larger than a

sparrow, of a fine yellowish green, with bright azure on the crown of

the head, and the throat and belly red; besides another sort as large as

a dove, with a blue crown and thighs, the throat and under part of the

head crimson, as also part of the belly, and the rest a beautiful green.

“There are owls about the size of our common sort, but of a finer

plumage; the cuckoos mentioned at Palmerston’s Island; king-fishers

about the size of a thrush, of a greenish blue, with a white ring about

the neck; and a bird of the thrush kind, almost as big, of a dull green

colour, with two yellow wattles at the base of the bill, which is the

only singing one we observed here; but it compensates a good deal for

the want of others by the strength and melody of its notes, which fill

the woods at dawn, in the evening, and at the breaking up of bad

weather.

“The other land birds are rails as large as a pigeon, of a variegated

grey colour, with a rusty neck; a black sort with red eyes, not larger

than a lark; large violet coloured coots with red bald crowns; two sorts

of fly-catchers; a very small swallow; and three sorts of pigeons, one

of which is _le ramier cuivre_ of Mons. Sonnerat[192]; another, half the

size of the common sort, of a light green on the back and wings, with a

red forehead; and a third, somewhat less of a purple brown, but whitish

underneath.

“Of water-fowl, and such as frequent the sea, are the ducks seen at

Annamooka, though scarce here; blue and white herons; tropic birds;

common noddies; white terns; a new species of a leaden colour, with a

black crest; a small blueish curlew; and a large plover, spotted with

yellow. Besides the large bats, mentioned before, there is also the

common sort.

“The only noxious or disgusting animals of the reptile or insect tribe,

are sea snakes, three feet long, with black and white circles

alternately, often found on shore; some scorpions and _centipedes_.

There are fine green _guanoes_, a foot and a half long; another brown

and spotted lizard about a foot long; and two other small sorts. Amongst

the other insects are some beautiful moths; butterflies; very large

spiders; and others; making in the whole, about fifty different sorts.

“The sea abounds with fish, though the variety is less than might be

expected. The most frequent sorts are mullets; several sorts of

parrot-fish; silver fish; old wives; some beautifully spotted soles;

leather jackets; bonnetos; and albicores; besides the eels mentioned at

Palmerston’s Island; some sharks; rays; pipe-fish; a sort of pike; and

some curious devil-fish.

“The many reefs and shoals on the north side of the island, afford

shelter for an endless variety of shell-fish; amongst which are many

that are esteemed precious in Europe. Such as the true hammer oyster; of

which, however, none could be obtained entire; a large indentated

oyster; and several others, but none of the common sort; panamas; cones;

a sort of gigantic cockle, found also in the East Indies; pearl shell

oysters, and many others; several of which I believe, have been hitherto

unknown to the most diligent inquirers after that branch of natural

history. There are likewise, several sorts of sea-eggs; and many very

fine star-fish; besides a considerable variety of corals; amongst which

are two red sorts, the one most elegantly branched, the other tubulous.

And there is no less variety amongst the crabs and cray fish, which are

very numerous. To which may be added, several sorts of sponge; the sea

hare, _holothuriæ_, and the like.”

CHAP. IX.

A GRAND SOLEMNITY CALLED NATCHE, IN HONOUR OF THE KING’S SON,

PERFORMED.—THE PROCESSIONS AND OTHER CEREMONIES, DURING THE FIRST DAY,

DESCRIBED.—THE MANNER OF PASSING THE NIGHT AT THE KING’S HOUSE.—

CONTINUATION OF THE SOLEMNITY, THE NEXT DAY.—CONJECTURES ABOUT THE

NATURE OF IT.—DEPARTURE FROM TONGATABOO, AND ARRIVAL AT EOOA.—ACCOUNT

OF THAT ISLAND, AND TRANSACTIONS THERE.

We were now ready to sail, but the wind being easterly, we had not

sufficient day-light to turn through the narrows, either with the

morning or with the evening flood; the one falling out too early and the

other too late. So that without a leading wind, we were under a

necessity of waiting two or three days.

I took the opportunity of this delay to be present at a public

solemnity, to which the king had invited us when we went last to visit

him, and which he had informed us, was to be performed on the 8th. With

a view to this, he and all the people of note quitted our neighbourhood

on the 7th, and repaired to Mooa, where the solemnity was to be

exhibited. A party of us followed them the next morning. We understood,

from what Poulaho had said to us, that his son and heir was now to be

initiated into certain privileges; amongst which was that of eating with

his father; an honour he had not as yet been admitted to.

We arrived at Mooa about eight o’clock, and found the king, with a large

circle of attendants sitting before him, within an inclosure so small

and dirty, as to excite my wonder that any such could be found in that

neighbourhood. They were intent upon their usual morning occupation, in

preparing a bowl of _kava_. As this was no liquor for us, we walked out

to visit some of our friends, and to observe what preparations might be

making for the ceremony, which was soon to begin. About ten o’clock the

people began to assemble in a large area, which is before the _malaee_,

or great house, to which we had been conducted the first time we visited

Mooa. At the end of a road that opens into this area, stood some men

with spears and clubs, who kept constantly reciting or chanting short

sentences, in a mournful tone, which conveyed some idea of distress, and

as if they called for something. This was continued about an hour; and,

in the mean time, many people came down the road, each of them bringing

a yam tied to the middle of a pole, which they laid down before the

persons who continued repeating the sentences. While this was going on,

the king and prince arrived, and seated themselves upon the area; and we

were desired to sit down by them, but to pull off our hats, and to untie

our hair. The bearers of the yams being all come in, each pole was taken

up between two men, who carried it over their shoulders. After forming

themselves into companies of ten or twelve persons each, they marched

across the place with a quick pace, each company, headed by a man

bearing a club or spear, and guarded on the right by several others

armed with different weapons. A man carrying a living pigeon on a perch,

closed the rear of the procession, in which about two hundred and fifty

persons walked.

Omai was desired by me to ask the chief to what place the yams were to

be thus carried with so much solemnity? but, as he seemed unwilling to

give us the information we wanted, two or three of us followed the

procession, contrary to his inclination. We found that they stopped

before a _morai_ or _fiatooka_[193] of one house standing upon a mount,

which was hardly a quarter of a mile from the place where they first

assembled. Here we observed them depositing the yams, and making them up

into bundles; but for what purpose, we could not learn. And, as our

presence seemed to give them uneasiness, we left them and returned to

Poulaho, who told us we might amuse ourselves by walking about, as

nothing would be done for some time. The fear of losing any part of the

ceremony, prevented our being long absent. When we returned to the king,

he desired me to order the boat’s crew not to stir from the boat; for,

as every thing would very soon be _taboo_, if any of our people, or of

their own, should be found walking about, they would be knocked down

with clubs; nay, _mateed_, that is, killed. He also acquainted us, that

we could not be present at the ceremony; but that we should be conducted

to a place where we might see every thing that passed. Objections were

made to our dress. We were told that, to qualify us to be present, it

was necessary that we should be naked as low as the breast with our hats

off, and our hair untied. Omai offered to conform to these requisites,

and began to strip; other objections were then started; so that the

exclusion was given to him equally with ourselves.

I did not much like this restriction; and, therefore, stole out to see

what might now be going forward. I found very few people stirring except

those dressed to attend the ceremony; some of whom had in their hands

small poles about four feet long, and to the under part of these were

fastened two or three other sticks not bigger than one’s finger, and

about six inches in length. These men were going toward the _morai_ just

mentioned. I took the same road, and was several times stopped by them,

all crying out _taboo_. However I went forward without much regarding

them, till I came in sight of the _morai_, and of the people who were

sitting before it. I was now urged very strongly to go back; and, not

knowing what might be the consequence of a refusal, I complied. I had

observed that the people who carried the poles passed this _morai_, or

what I may as well call temple; and guessing, from this circumstance,

that something was transacting beyond it which might be worth looking

at, I had thoughts of advancing, by making a round for this purpose; but

I was so closely watched by three men that I could not put my design in

execution. In order to shake these fellows off, I returned to the

_malaee_, where I had left the king, and, from thence made an elopement

a second time; but I instantly met with the same three men; so that it

seemed as if they had been ordered to watch my motions. I paid no regard

to what they said or did till I came within sight of the king’s

principal _fiatooka_ or _morai_, which I have already described[194],

before which a great number of men were sitting, being the same persons

whom I had just before seen pass by the other _morai_, from which this

was but a little distant. Observing that I could watch the proceedings

of this company from the king’s plantation, I repaired thither, very

much to the satisfaction of those who attended me.

As soon as I got in, I acquainted the gentlemen who had come with me

from the ships with what I had seen; and we took a proper station to

watch the result. The number of people at the _fiatooka_, continued to

increase for some time; and at length we could see them quit their

sitting posture, and march off in procession. They walked in pairs, one

after another, every pair carrying between them one of the small poles

above mentioned on their shoulders. We were told that the small pieces

of sticks fastened to the poles were yams; so that, probably, they were

meant to represent this root emblematically. The hindmost men of each

couple, for the most part, placed one of his hands to the middle of the

pole, as if, without this additional support, it were not strong enough

to carry the weight that hung to it, and under which they all seemed to

bend as they walked. This procession consisted of one hundred and eight

pairs, and all, or most of them, men of rank. They came close by the

fence behind which we stood; so that we had a full view of them.

Having waited here till they had all passed, we then repaired to

Poulaho’s house, and saw him going out. We could not be allowed to

follow him; but were forthwith conducted to the place allotted to us,

which was behind a fence, adjoining to the area of the _fiatooka_ where

the yams had been deposited in the forenoon. As we were not the only

people who were excluded from being publicly present at this ceremony,

but allowed to peep from behind the curtain, we had a good deal of

company; and I observed that all the other inclosures round the place

were filled with people. And yet all imaginable care seemed to be taken

that they should see as little as possible; for the fences had not only

been repaired that morning, but, in many places, raised higher than

common; so that the tallest man could not look over them. To remedy this

defect in our station, we took the liberty to cut holes in the fence

with our knives; and by this means we could see, pretty distinctly,

every thing that was transacting on the other side.

On our arrival at our station, we found two or three hundred people

sitting on the grass near the end of the road that opened into the area

of the _morai_, and the number continually increased, by others joining

them. At length arrived a few men carrying some small poles, and

branches or leaves of the cocoa-nut tree; and, upon their first

appearance, an old man seated himself in the road, and, with his face

toward them, pronounced a long oration in a serious tone. He then

retired back, and the others advancing to the middle of the area, began

to erect a small shed; employing for that purpose the materials above

mentioned. When they had finished their work, they all squatted down for

a moment before it, then rose up and retired to the rest of the company.

Soon after came Poulaho’s son, preceded by four or five men, and they

seated themselves a little aside from the shed, and rather behind it.

After them appeared twelve or fourteen women of the first rank, walking

slowly in pairs, each pair carrying between them a narrow piece of white

cloth extended about two or three yards in length. These marched up to

the prince, squatted down before him; and having wrapped some of the

pieces of the cloth they had brought round his body, they rose up and

retired in the same order, to some distance on his left, and there

seated themselves. Poulaho himself soon made his appearance, preceded by

four men, who walked two and two abreast, and sat down on his son’s left

hand about twenty paces from him. The young prince, then quitting his

first position, went and sat down under the shed with his attendants;

and a considerable number more placed themselves on the grass before

this royal canopy. The prince himself sat facing the people, with his

back to the _morai_. This being done, three companies, of ten or a dozen

men in each, started up from amongst the large crowd, a little after

each other, and running hastily to the opposite side of the area, sat

down for a few seconds, after which they returned in the same manner to

their former stations. To them succeeded two men, each of whom held a

small green branch in his hand, who got up and approached the prince,

sitting down for a few seconds three different times, as they advanced;

and then, turning their backs, retired in the same manner, inclining

their branches to each other as they sat. In a little time two more

repeated this ceremony.

The grand procession which I had seen march off from the other _morai_,

now began to come in. To judge of the circuit they had made, from the

time they had been absent, it must have been pretty large. As they

entered the area, they marched up to the right of the shed, and, having

prostrated themselves on the grass, deposited their pretended burthens

(the poles above mentioned), and faced round to the prince. They then

rose up and retired in the same order, closing their hands, which they

held before them, with the most serious aspect, and seated themselves

along the front of the area. During all the time that this numerous band

were coming in, and depositing their poles, three men, who sat under the

shed with the prince, continued pronouncing separate sentences in a

melancholy tone. After this a profound silence ensued for a little time,

and then a man, who sat in the front of the area, began an oration (or

prayer), during which, at several different times, he went and broke one

of the poles which had been brought in by those who had walked in

procession. When he had ended, the people sitting before the shed

separated, to make a lane, through which the prince and his attendants

passed, and the assembly broke up.

Some of our party, satisfied with what they had already seen, now

returned to the ships; but I, and two or three more of the officers,

remained at Mooa, to see the conclusion of the solemnity, which was not

to be till the next day; being desirous of omitting no opportunity which

might afford any information about the religious or the political

institutions of this people. The small sticks or poles which had been

brought into the area by those who walked in procession, being left

lying on the ground after the crowd had dispersed, I went and examined

them. I found, that, to the middle of each, two or three small sticks

were tied, as has been related. Yet we had been repeatedly told by the

natives who stood near us, that they were young yams; insomuch that some

of our gentlemen believed them rather than their own eyes. As I had the

demonstration of my senses to satisfy me that they were not real yams,

it is clear that we ought to have understood them, that they were only

the artificial representations of these roots.

Our supper was got ready about seven o’clock. It consisted of fish and

yams. We might have had pork also; but we did not choose to kill a large

hog, which the king had given to us for that purpose. He supped with us,

and drank pretty freely of brandy and water; so that he went to bed with

a sufficient dose. We passed the night in the same house with him and

several of his attendants.

About one or two o’clock in the morning, they waked and conversed for

about an hour, and then went to sleep again. All but Poulaho himself

rose at day-break, and went I know not whither. Soon after, a woman, one

of those who generally attended upon the chief, came in and inquired

where he was. I pointed him out to her; and she immediately sat down by

him, and began the same operation which Mr. Anderson had seen practised

upon Futtafaihe, tapping or beating gently with her clenched fists on

his thighs. This, instead of prolonging his sleep, as was intended, had

the contrary effect; however, though he awaked, he continued to lie

down.

Omai and I now went to visit the prince, who had parted from us early in

the evening. For he did not lodge with the king, but in apartments of

his own, or at least, such as had been allotted to him, at some distance

from his father’s house. We found him with a circle of boys, or youths

about his own age, sitting before him; and an old woman and an old man,

who seemed to have the care of him, sitting behind. There were others,

both men and women, employed about their necessary affairs in different

departments; who, probably, belonged to his household.

From the prince we returned to the king. By this time he had got up, and

had a crowded circle before him, composed chiefly of old men. While a

large bowl of _kava_ was preparing, a baked hog and yams, smoking hot,

were brought in; the greatest part of which fell to our share, and was

very acceptable to the boat’s crew: for these people eat very little in

the morning; especially the _kava_ drinkers. I afterward walked out and

visited several other chiefs; and found that all of them were taking

their morning draught, or had already taken it. Returning to the king, I

found him asleep in a small retired hut, with two women tapping on his

breech. About eleven o’clock he arose again; and then some fish and

yams, which tasted as if they had been stewed in cocoa-nut milk, were

brought to him. Of these he ate a large portion, and lay down once more

to sleep. I now left him, and carried to the prince a present of cloth,

beads, and other articles, which I had brought with me from the ship for

the purpose. There was a sufficient quantity of cloth to make him a

complete suit; and he was immediately decked out with it. Proud of his

dress, he first went to show himself to his father, and then conducted

me to his mother; with whom were about ten or a dozen other women of a

respectable appearance. Here the prince changed his apparel, and made me

a present of two pieces of the cloth manufactured in the island. By this

time, it was past noon, when, by appointment, I repaired to the palace

to dinner. Several of our gentleman had returned this morning from the

ships; and we were all invited to the feast, which was presently served

up, and consisted of two pigs and yams. I roused the drowsy monarch to

partake of what he had provided for our entertainment. In the mean time,

two mullets and some shell-fish were brought to him, as I supposed, for

his separate portion. But he joined it to our fare, sat down with us,

and made a hearty meal.

When dinner was over, we were told that the ceremony would soon begin;

and were strictly enjoined not to walk out. I had resolved, however, to

peep no longer from behind the curtain, but to mix with the actors

themselves, if possible. With this view I stole out from the plantation,

and walked toward the _morai_, the scene of the solemnity. I was several

times desired to go back by people whom I met; but I paid no regard to

them; and they suffered me to pass on. When I arrived at the _morai_, I

found a number of men seated on the side of the area on each side of the

road that leads up to it. A few were sitting on the opposite side of the

area; and two men in the middle of it, with their faces turned to the

_morai_. When I got into the midst of the first company, I was desired

to sit down, which I accordingly did. Where I sat, there were lying a

number of small bundles or parcels, composed of cocoa-nut leaves, and

tied to sticks made into the form of hand-barrows. All the information I

could get about them was, that they were _taboo_. Our number kept

continually increasing; every one coming from the same quarter. From

time to time, one or another of the company turned himself to those who

were coming to join us, and made a short speech, in which I could remark

that the word _arekee_, that is, king, was generally mentioned. One man

said something that produced bursts of hearty laughter from all the

crowd; others of the speakers met with public applause. I was several

times desired to leave the place; and, at last, when they found that I

would not stir, after some seeming consultation, they applied to me to

uncover my shoulders as theirs were. With this request I complied; and

then they seemed to be no longer uneasy at my presence.

I sat a full hour without any thing more going forward beside what I

have mentioned. At length the prince, the women, and the king, all came

in, as they had done the day before. The prince, being placed under the

shed, after his father’s arrival, two men, each carrying a piece of mat,

came, repeating something seriously, and put them about him. The

assembled people now began their operations; and first, three companies

ran backward and forward across the area, as described in the account of

the proceedings of the former day. Soon after, the two men who sat in

the middle of the area, made a short speech or prayer; and then the

whole body, amongst whom I had my place, started up, and ran and seated

themselves before the shed under which the prince, and three or four

men, were sitting. I was now partly under the management of one of the

company, who seemed very assiduous to serve me. By his means, I was

placed in such a situation, that if I had been allowed to make use of my

eyes, nothing that passed could have escaped me. But it was necessary to

sit with down-cast looks, and demure as maids.

Soon after, the procession came in, as on the day before; each two

persons bearing on their shoulders a pole, round the middle of which, a

cocoa-nut leaf was platted. These were deposited with ceremonies similar

to those observed on the preceding day. This first procession was

followed by a second; the men composing which brought baskets, such as

are usually employed by this people to carry provisions in, and made of

palm leaves. These were followed by a third procession, in which were

brought different kinds of small fish; each fixed at the end of a forked

stick. The baskets were carried up to an old man, whom I took to be the

chief priest, and who sat on the prince’s right hand, without the shed.

He held each in his hand, while he made a short speech or prayer; then

laid it down, and called for another, repeating the same words as

before; and thus he went through the whole number of baskets. The fish

were presented, one by one on the forked sticks, as they came in, to two

men who sat on the left; and who, till now, held green branches in their

hands. The first fish they laid down on their right, and the second on

their left. When the third was presented, a stout looking man, who sat

behind the other two, reached his arm over between them, and made a

snatch at it; as also did the other two, at the very same time. Thus

they seemed to contend for every fish that was presented; but as there

were two hands against one, besides the advantage of situation, the man

behind got nothing but pieces; for he never quitted his hold, till the

fish was torn out of his hand; and what little remained in it, he shook

out behind him. The others laid what they got, on the right and left

alternately. At length, either by accident or design, the man behind got

possession of a whole fish, without either of the other two so much as

touching it. At this, the word _mareeai_, which signifies _very good_,

or _well done_, was uttered in a low voice throughout the whole crowd.

It seemed, that he had performed now all that was expected from him; for

he made no attempt upon the few fish that came after. These fish, as

also the baskets, were all delivered, by the persons who brought them

in, sitting; and in the same order and manner the small poles, which the

first procession carried, had been laid upon the ground.

The last procession being closed, there was some speaking or praying, by

different persons. Then, on some signal being given, we all started up,

ran several paces to the left, and sat down with our backs to the

prince, and the few who remained with him. I was desired not to look

behind me. However, neither this injunction, nor the remembrance of

Lot’s wife, discouraged me from facing about. I now saw that the prince

had turned his face to the _morai_. But this last movement had brought

so many people between him and me, that I could not perceive what was

doing. I was afterward assured, that at this very time, the prince was

admitted to the high honour of eating with his father; which, till now,

had never been permitted to him; a piece of roasted yam being presented

to each of them for this purpose. This was the more probable, as we had

been told, before-hand, that this was to happen during the solemnity;

and as all the people turned their backs to them, at this time, which

they always do when their monarch eats.

After some little time, we all faced about, and formed a semicircle

before the prince, leaving a large open space between us. Presently

there appeared some men coming toward us, two and two, bearing large

sticks, or poles, upon their shoulders, making a noise that might be

called singing, and waving their hands as they advanced. When they had

got close up to us, they made a show of walking very fast, without

proceeding a single step. Immediately after, three or four men started

up from the crowd, with large sticks in their hands, who ran toward

those newcomers. The latter instantly threw down the poles from their

shoulders and scampered off; and the others attacked the poles; and,

having beat them most unmercifully, returned to their places. As the

pole-bearers ran off; they gave the challenge that is usual here in

wrestling; and not long after, a number of stout fellows came from the

same quarter, repeating the challenge as they advanced. These were

opposed by a party, who came from the opposite side almost at the same

instant. The two parties paraded about the area for a few minutes, and

then retired, each to their own side. After this, there were wrestling

and boxing-matches for about half an hour. Then two men seated

themselves before the prince, and made speeches, addressed, as I

thought, entirely to him. With this the solemnity ended, and the whole

assembly broke up.

I now went and examined the several baskets which had been presented; a

curiosity that I was not allowed before to indulge; because every thing

was then _taboo_. But the solemnity being now over, they became simply

what I found them to be, empty baskets. So that, whatever they were

supposed to contain, was emblematically represented. And so, indeed, was

every other thing which had been brought in procession, except the fish.

We endeavoured in vain to find out the meaning, not only of the ceremony

in general, which is called _Natche_, but of its different parts. We

seldom got any other answer to our inquiries, but _taboo_; a word which

I have before observed, is applied to many other things. But as the

prince was evidently the principal person concerned in it; and as we had

been told by the king, ten days before the celebration of the _Natche_,

that the people would bring in yams for him and his son to eat together;

and as he even described some part of the ceremony, we concluded, from

what he had then said, and from what we now saw, that an oath of

allegiance, if I may so express myself, or solemn promise, was on this

occasion made to the prince, as the immediate successor to the regal

dignity, to stand by him, and to furnish him with the several articles

that were here emblematically represented. This seems the more probable,

as all the principal people of the island, whom we had ever seen,

assisted in the processions. But, be this as it may, the whole was

conducted with a great deal of mysterious solemnity; and that there was

a mixture of religion in the institution, was evident, not only from the

place where it was performed, but from the manner of performing it. Our

dress and deportment had never been called in question upon any former

occasion whatever. Now, it was expected that we should be uncovered as

low as the waist; that our hair should be loose, and flowing over our

shoulders; that we should, like themselves, sit cross-legged; and at

times in the most humble posture, with down-cast eyes, and hands locked

together; all which requisites were most devoutly observed by the whole

assembly. And, lastly, every one was excluded from the solemnity, but

the principal people, and those who assisted in the celebration. All

these circumstances were to me a sufficient testimony, that, upon this

occasion, they considered themselves as acting under the immediate

inspection of a Supreme Being.

The present _Natche_ may be considered from the above account of it as

merely figurative. For the small quantity of yams, which we saw the

first day, could not be intended as a general contribution; and, indeed,

we were given to understand, that they were a portion consecrated to the

_Otooa_ or divinity. But we were informed, that in about three months

there would be performed, on the same account, a far more important and

grander solemnity; on which occasion, not only the tribute of

Tongataboo, but that of Hapaee, Vavaoo, and of all the other islands,

would be brought to the chief, and confirmed more awfully, by

sacrificing ten human victims from amongst the inferior sort of people.

A horrid solemnity, indeed! and which is a most significant instance of

the influence of gloomy and ignorant superstition, over the minds of one

of the most benevolent and humane nations upon earth. On inquiring into

the reasons of so barbarous a practice, they only said, that it was a

necessary part of the _Natche_; and that if they omitted it, the deity

would certainly destroy their king.

Before the assembly broke up, the day was far spent; and as we were at

some distance from the ships, and had an intricate navigation to go

through, we were in haste to set out from Mooa. When I took leave of

Poulaho, he pressed me much to stay till the next day, to be present at

a funeral ceremony. The wife of Mareewagee, who was mother-in-law to the

king, had lately died; and her corpse had, on account of the _Natche_,

been carried on board a canoe that lay in the _lagoon_. Poulaho told me,

that as soon as he had paid the last offices to her, he would attend me

to Eooa; but, if I did not wait, that he would follow me thither. I

understood at the same time, that, if it had not been for the death of

this woman, most of the chiefs would have accompanied us to that island;

where, it seems all of them have possessions. I would gladly have waited

to see this ceremony also, had not the tide been now favourable for the

ships to get through the narrows. The wind, besides which, for several

days past, had been very boisterous, was now moderate and settled; and

to have lost this opportunity, might have detained us a fortnight

longer. But what was decisive against my waiting, we understood that the

funeral ceremonies would last five days, which was too long a time, as

the ships lay in such a situation, that I could not get to sea at

pleasure. I, however, assured the king, that if we did not sail, I

should certainly visit him again the next day. And so we all took leave

of him, and set out for the ships, where we arrived about eight o’clock

in the evening.

I had forgot to mention that Omai was present at the second day’s

ceremony, as well as myself; but we were not together; nor did I know

that he was there, till it was almost over. He afterward told me, that

as soon as the king saw that I had stolen out from the plantation, he

sent several people, one after another, to desire me to come back.

Probably, these messengers were not admitted to the place where I was;

for I saw nothing of them. At last, intelligence was brought to the

chief, that I had actually stripped, in conformity to their custom; and

then he told Omai, that he might be present also, if he would comply

with all the necessary forms. Omai had no objection, as nothing was

required of him, but to conform to the custom of his own country.

Accordingly, he was furnished with a proper dress, and appeared at the

ceremony as one of the natives. It is likely, that one reason of our

being excluded at first, was an apprehension, that we would not submit

to the requisites to qualify us to assist.

While I was attending the _Natche_ at Mooa, I ordered the horses, bull

and cow, and goats, to be brought thither; thinking that they would be

safer there, under the eyes of the chiefs, than at a place that would

be, in a manner, deserted, the moment after our departure. Besides the

above-mentioned animals, we left, with our friends here, a young boar,

and three young sows, of the English breed. They were exceedingly

desirous of them, judging, no doubt, that they would greatly improve

their own breed, which is rather small. Feenou also got from us two

rabbits, a buck and a doe; and, before we sailed, we were told, that

young ones had been already produced. If the cattle succeed, of which I

make no doubt, it will be a vast acquisition to these islands; and, as

Tongataboo is a fine level country, the horses cannot but be useful.

On the 10th, at eight o’clock in the morning, we weighed anchor, and

with a steady gale at south east, turned through the channel, between

the small isles called Makkahaa and Monooafai; it being much wider than

the channel between the last mentioned island and Pangimodoo. The flood

set strong in our favour, till we were the length of the channel leading

up to the _lagoon_, where the flood from the eastward meets that from

the west. This, together with the indraught of the _lagoon_, and of the

shoals before it, causeth strong riplings and whirlpools. To add to

these dangers, the depth of water in the channel exceeds the length of a

cable; so that there is no anchorage, except close to the rocks, where

we met with forty and forty-five fathoms, over a bottom of dark sand.

But, then, here a ship would be exposed to the whirlpools. This

frustrated the design which I had formed, of coming to an anchor, as

soon as we were through the narrows, and of making an excursion to see

the funeral. I chose rather to lose that ceremony, than to leave the

ships in a situation, in which I did not think them safe. We continued

to ply to windward, between the two tides, without either gaining or

losing an inch, till near high water, when, by a favourable slant, we

got into the eastern tide’s influence. We expected there to find the ebb

to run strong to the eastward in our favour; but it proved so

inconsiderable, that, at any other time, it would not have been noticed.

This informed us, that most of the water, which flows into the _lagoon_,

comes from the north west, and returns the same way. About five in the

afternoon, finding that we could not get to sea before it was dark, I

came to an anchor, under the shore of Tongataboo, in forty-five fathoms’

water; and about two cables length from the reef, that runs along that

side of the island. The Discovery dropped anchor under our stern; but

before the anchor took hold, she drove off the bank, and did not recover

it till after midnight.

We remained at this station, till eleven o’clock the next day, when we

weighed, and plyed to the eastward. But it was ten at night before we

weathered the east end of the island, and were enabled to stretch away

for Middleburg, or Eooa (as it is called by the inhabitants), where we

anchored at eight o’clock the next morning, in forty fathoms’ water,

over a bottom of sand, interspersed with coral rocks; the extremes of

the island extending, from N. 40° E. to S. 22° W.; the high land of

Eooa, S. 45° E.; and Tongataboo, from N. 70° W. to N. 19° W.; distant

about half a mile from the shore; being nearly the same place where I

had my station in 1773, and then named by me, _English Road_.

We had no sooner anchored, than Taoofa the chief, and several other

natives, visited us on board, and seemed to rejoice much at our arrival.

This Taoofa[195] had been my _Tayo_, when I was here, during my last

voyage; consequently, we were not strangers to each other. In a little

time, I went ashore with him, in search of fresh water; the procuring of

which, was the chief object that brought me to Eooa. I had been told at

Tongataboo, that there was here a stream, running from the hills into

the sea; but this was not the case now. I was first conducted to a

brackish spring, between low and high water mark, amongst rocks, in the

cove where we landed, and where no one would ever have thought of

looking for what we wanted. However, I believe the water of this spring

might be good, were it possible to take it up, before the tide mixes

with it. Finding that we did not like this, our friends took us a little

way into the island; where, in a deep chasm, we found very good water;

which, at the expence of some time and trouble, might be conveyed down

to the shore, by means of spouts or troughs, that could be made with

plantain leaves, and the stem of the tree. But, rather than to undertake

that tedious task, I resolved to rest contented with the supply the

ships had got at Tongataboo.

Before I returned on board, I set on foot a trade for hogs and yams. Of

the former we could procure but few; but of the latter, plenty. I put

ashore, at this island, the ram and two ewes, of the Cape of Good Hope

breed of sheep; intrusting them to the care of Taoofa, who seemed proud

of his charge. It was fortunate, perhaps, that Mareewagee, to whom I had

given them, as before-mentioned, slighted the present. Eooa, not having

as yet got any dogs upon it, seems to be a properer place than

Tongataboo for the rearing of sheep.

As we lay at anchor, this island bore a very different aspect from any

we had lately seen, and formed a most beautiful landscape. It is higher

than any we had passed, since leaving New Zealand (as Kao may justly be

reckoned an immense rock), and from its top, which is almost flat,

declines very gently toward the sea. As the other isles of this cluster

are level, the eye can discover nothing but the trees that cover them;

but here the land, rising gently upward, presents us with an extensive

prospect, where groves of trees are only interspersed at irregular

distances, in beautiful disorder, and the rest covered with grass. Near

the shore, again, it is quite shaded with various trees, amongst which

are the habitations of the natives; and to the right of our station, was

one of the most extensive groves of cocoa-palms we had ever seen.

The 13th, in the afternoon, a party of us made an excursion to the

highest part of the island, which was a little to the right of our

ships, in order to have a full view of the country. About half way up,

we crossed a deep valley, the bottom and sides of which, though composed

of hardly any thing but coral rock, were clothed with trees. We were now

about two or three hundred feet above the level of the sea, and yet,

even here, the coral was perforated into all the holes and inequalities,

which usually diversify the surface of this substance within the reach

of the tide. Indeed, we found the same coral, till we began to approach

the summits of the highest hills; and it was remarkable, that these were

chiefly composed of a yellowish, soft, sandy stone. The soil there, is,

in general, a reddish clay; which, in many places, seemed to be very

deep. On the most elevated part of the whole island, we found a round

platform, or mount of earth, supported by a wall of coral stones; to

bring which to such a height, must have cost much labour. Our guides

told us, that this mount had been erected by order of their chief; and

that they sometimes met there to drink _kava_. They called it _Etchee_;

by which name, an erection, which we had seen at Tongataboo, as already

mentioned, was distinguished. Not many paces from it, was a spring of

excellent water; and, about a mile lower down, a running stream, which

we were told found its way to the sea, when the rains were copious. We

also met with water, in many little holes; and, no doubt, great plenty

might be found, by digging.

From the elevation to which we had ascended, we had a full view of the

whole island, except a part of the south point. The south-east side,

from which the highest hills we were now upon are not far distant, rises

with very great inequalities, immediately from the sea; so that the

plains and meadows, of which there are here some of great extent, lie

all on the north-west side; and, as they are adorned with tufts of

trees, intermixed with plantations, they form a very beautiful landscape

in every point of view. While I was surveying this delightful prospect,

I could not help flattering myself with the pleasing idea that some

future navigator may, from the same station, behold these meadows

stocked with cattle, brought to these islands by the ships of England;

and that the completion of this single benevolent purpose, independently

of all other considerations, would sufficiently mark to posterity that

our voyages had not been useless to the general interests of humanity.

Besides the plants common on the other neighbouring islands, we found,

on the height, a species of _acrosticum_, _melastoma_, and fern tree;

with a few other ferns and plants, not common lower down.

Our guides informed us, that all, or most of the land on this island,

belonged to the great chiefs of Tongataboo; and that the inhabitants

were only tenants or vassals to them. Indeed, this seemed to be the case

at all the other neighbouring isles, except Annamooka, where there were

some chiefs, who seemed to act with some kind of independence. Omai, who

was a great favourite with Feenou, and these people in general, was

tempted with the offer of being made chief of this island if he would

have staid amongst them; and it is not clear to me, that he would not

have been glad to stay, if the scheme had met with my approbation. I own

I did disapprove of it; but not because I thought that Omai would do

better for himself in his own native isle.

On returning from my country expedition, we were informed that a party

of the natives had, in the circle where our people traded, struck one of

their own countrymen with a club, which laid bare, or, as others said,

fractured his skull, and then broke his thigh with the same, when our

men interposed. He had no signs of life when carried to a neighbouring

house; but afterward recovered a little. On my asking the reason of so

severe a treatment, we were informed that he had been discovered in a

situation rather indelicate with a woman who was _tabooed_. We, however,

understood that she was no otherwise _tabooed_, than by belonging to

another person, and rather superior in rank to her gallant. From this

circumstance we had an opportunity of observing how these people treat

such infidelities. But the female sinner has, by far, the smaller share

of punishment for her misdemeanor; as they told us that she would only

receive a slight beating.

The next morning I planted a pine-apple, and sowed the seeds of melons

and other vegetables in the chief’s plantation. I had some

encouragement, indeed, to flatter myself that my endeavours of this kind

would not be fruitless; for, this day, there was served up at my dinner

a dish of turnips, being the produce of the seeds I had left here during

my last voyage.

I had fixed upon the 15th for sailing, till Taoofa pressed me to stay a

day or two longer, to receive a present he had prepared for me. This

reason, and the daily expectation of seeing some of our friends from

Tongataboo, induced me to defer my departure.

Accordingly, the next day, I received the chief’s present; consisting of

two small heaps of yams, and some fruit, which seemed to be collected by

a kind of contribution, as at the other isles. On this occasion, most of

the people of the island had assembled at the place; and, as we had

experienced on such numerous meetings amongst their neighbours, gave us

not a little trouble to prevent them from pilfering whatever they could

lay their hands upon. We were entertained with cudgelling, wrestling,

and boxing-matches; and in the latter, both male and female combatants

exhibited. It was intended to have finished the show with the _bomai_,

or night-dance; but an accident either put a total stop to it, or, at

least, prevented any of us from staying ashore to see it. One of my

people, walking a very little way, was surrounded by twenty or thirty of

the natives, who knocked him down, and stripped him of every thing he

had on his back. On hearing of this, I immediately seized two canoes and

a large hog; and insisted on Taoofa’s causing the clothes to be

restored, and on the offenders being delivered up to me. The chief

seemed much concerned at what had happened; and forthwith took the

necessary steps to satisfy me. This affair so alarmed the assembled

people, that most of them fled. However, when they found that I took no

other measures to revenge the insult, they returned. It was not long

before one of the offenders was delivered up to me, and a shirt and a

pair of trowsers restored. The remainder of the stolen goods not coming

in before night, I was under the necessity of leaving them to go aboard;

for the sea run so high, that it was with the greatest difficulty the

boats could get out of the creek with day-light, much less in the dark.

The next morning I landed again, having provided myself with a present

for Taoofa, in return for what he had given me. As it was early, there

were but few people at the landing-place, and those few not without

their fears. But on my desiring Omai to assure them that we meant no

harm; and, in confirmation of this assurance, having restored the canoes

and released the offender, whom they had delivered up to me, they

resumed their usual gaiety; and, presently, a large circle was formed,

in which the chief and all the principal men of the island took their

places. The remainder of the clothes were now brought in; but, as they

had been torn off the man’s back by pieces, they were not worth carrying

on board. Taoofa, on receiving my present, shared it with three or four

other chiefs, keeping only a small part for himself. This present

exceeded their expectation so greatly, that one of the chiefs, a

venerable old man, told me that they did not deserve it, considering how

little they had given to me, and the ill treatment one of my people had

met with. I remained with them till they had finished their bowl of

_kava_; and having then paid for the hog which I had taken the day

before, returned on board with Taoofa, and one of Poulaho’s servants, by

whom I sent, as a parting mark of my esteem and regard for that chief, a

piece of bar iron; being as valuable a present as any I could make to

him.

Soon after we weighed, and, with a light breeze at south-east, stood out

to sea; and then Taoofa, and a few other natives that were in the ship,

left us. On heaving up the anchor, we found that the cable had suffered

considerably by the rocks; so that the bottom in this road is not to be

depended upon. Besides this, we experienced that a prodigious swell

rolls in there from the south-west.

We had not been long under sail, before we observed a sailing canoe

coming from Tongataboo, and entering the creek before which we had

anchored. Some hours after, a small canoe conducted by four men, came

off to us; for, as we had but little wind, we were still at no great

distance from the land. These men told us that the sailing canoe, which

we had seen arrive from Tongataboo, had brought orders to the people of

Eooa, to furnish us with a certain number of hogs; and that in two days,

the king and other chiefs would be with us. They, therefore, desired we

would return to our former station. There was no reason to doubt the

truth of what these men told us. Two of them had actually come from

Tongataboo in the sailing canoe; and they had no view in coming off to

us, but to give this intelligence. However, as we were now clear of the

land, it was not a sufficient inducement to bring me back; especially as

we had already on board a stock of fresh provisions, sufficient, in all

probability, to last during our passage to Otaheite. Besides Taoofa’s

present, we had got a good quantity of yams at Eooa, in exchange chiefly

for small nails. Our supply of hogs was also considerably increased

there; though doubtless, we should have got many more if the chiefs of

Tongataboo had been with us, whose property they mostly were. At the

approach of night, these men finding that we would not return, left us;

as also some others, who had come off in two canoes, with a few

cocoa-nuts and shaddocks, to exchange them for what they could get; the

eagerness of these people to get into their possession more of our

commodities, inducing them to follow the ships out to sea, and to

continue their intercourse with us to the last moment.

CHAP. X.

ADVANTAGES DERIVED FROM VISITING THE FRIENDLY ISLANDS.—BEST ARTICLES FOR

TRAFFIC.—REFRESHMENTS THAT MAY BE PROCURED.—THE NUMBER OF THE ISLANDS,

AND THEIR NAMES.—KEPPEL’s AND BOSCAWEN’S ISLANDS BELONG TO THEM.—

ACCOUNT OF VAVAOO.—OF HAMOA.—OF FEEJEE.—VOYAGES OF THE NATIVES IN

THEIR CANOES.—DIFFICULTY OF PROCURING EXACT INFORMATION.—PERSONS OF

THE INHABITANTS OF BOTH SEXES.—THEIR COLOUR.—DISEASES.—THEIR GENERAL

CHARACTER.—MANNER OF WEARING THEIR HAIR.—OF PUNCTURING THEIR BODIES.—

THEIR CLOTHING AND ORNAMENTS.—PERSONAL CLEANLINESS.

Thus we took leave of the Friendly Islands and their inhabitants, after

a stay of between two and three months; during which time, we lived

together in the most cordial friendship. Some accidental differences, it

is true, now and then happened, owing to their great propensity to

thieving; but, too often encouraged by the negligence of our own people.

But these differences were never attended with any fatal consequences;

to prevent which, all my measures were directed; and, I believe, few on

board our ships left our friends here without some regret. The time

employed amongst them was not thrown away. We expended very little of

our sea provisions; subsisting in general upon the produce of the

islands, while we staid; and carrying away with us a quantity of

refreshments sufficient to last till our arrival at another station,

where we could depend upon a fresh supply. I was not sorry, besides, to

have had an opportunity of bettering the condition of these good people,

by leaving the useful animals before-mentioned among them; and, at the

same time, those designed for Otaheite, received fresh strength in the

pastures of Tongataboo. Upon the whole, therefore, the advantages we

received by touching here were very great; and I had the additional

satisfaction to reflect, that they were received, without retarding one

moment the prosecution of the great object of our voyage; the season for

proceeding to the north being, as has been already observed, lost,

before I took the resolution of bearing away for these islands.

But, besides the immediate advantages, which both the natives of the

Friendly Islands, and ourselves, received by this visit, future

navigators from Europe, if any such should ever tread our steps, will

profit by the knowledge I acquired of the geography of this part of the

Pacific Ocean; and the more philosophical reader, who loves to view

human nature in new situations, and to speculate on singular, but

faithful representations of the persons, the customs, the arts, the

religion, the government, and the language of uncultivated man, in

remote and fresh discovered quarters of the globe, will, perhaps, find

matter of amusement, if not of instruction, in the information which I

have been enabled to convey to him, concerning the inhabitants of this

Archipelago. I shall suspend my narrative, of the progress of the

voyage, while I faithfully relate what I had opportunities of collecting

on these several topics.

We found by our experience, that the best articles for traffic, at these

islands, are iron tools in general. Axes and hatchets; nails, from the

largest spike down to tenpenny ones; rasps, files, and knives, are much

sought after. Red cloth, and linen, both white and coloured;

looking-glasses, and beads, are also in estimation; but of the latter,

those that are blue are preferred to all others; and white ones are

thought the least valuable. A string of large blue beads would, at any

time, purchase a hog. But it must be observed, that such articles as are

merely ornaments, may be highly esteemed at one time, and not so at

another. When we first arrived at Annamooka, the people there would

hardly take them in exchange even for fruit; but when Feenou came, this

great man set the fashion, and brought them into vogue, till they rose

in their value to what I have just mentioned.

In return for the favourite commodities which I have enumerated, all the

refreshments may be procured that the islands produce. These are hogs,

fowls, fish, yams, bread-fruit, plantains, cocoa-nuts, sugar-cane, and,

in general, every such supply as can be met with at Otaheite, or any of

the Society Islands. The yams of the Friendly Islands are excellent, and

when grown to perfection, keep very well at sea. But their pork,

bread-fruit, and plantains, though far from despicable, are,

nevertheless, much inferior in quality to the same articles at Otaheite,

and in its neighbourhood.

Good water, which ships on long voyages stand so much in need of, is

scarce at these islands. It may be found, it is true, on them all; but,

still, either in too inconsiderable quantities, or in situations too

inconvenient to serve the purposes of navigators. However, as the

islands afford plenty of provisions, and particularly of cocoa-nuts,

ships may make a tolerable shift with such water as is to be got; and if

one is not over nice, there will be no want. While we lay at anchor

under Kotoo, on our return from Hapaee, some people from Kao informed us

that there was a stream of water there, which, pouring down from the

mountain, runs into the sea on the south-west side of the island; that

is, on the side that faces Toofoa, another island remarkable for its

height, as also for having a considerable volcano in it, which, as has

been already mentioned, burnt violently all the time that we were in its

neighbourhood. It may be worth while for future navigators to attend to

this intelligence about the stream of water at Kao; especially as we

learned that there was anchorage on that part of the coast. The black

stone, of which the natives of the Friendly Islands make their hatchets

and other tools, we were informed, is the production of Toofoa.

Under the denomination of Friendly Islands, we must include not only the

group at Hapaee, which I visited, but also all those islands that have

been discovered nearly under the same meridian to the north, as well as

some others that have never been seen, hitherto, by any European

navigators; but are under the dominion of Tongataboo, which, though not

the largest, is the capital, and seat of government.

According to the information that we received there, this Archipelago is

very extensive. Above one hundred and fifty islands were reckoned up to

us by the natives, who made use of bits of leaves to ascertain their

number; and Mr. Anderson, with his usual diligence, even procured all

their names. Fifteen of them are said to be high or hilly, such as

Toofoa and Eooa; and thirty-five of them large. Of these only three were

seen this voyage; Hapaee (which is considered by the natives as one

island), Tongataboo and Eooa: of the size of the unexplored thirty-two,

nothing more can be mentioned, but that they must be all larger than

Annamooka; with those, from whom we had our information, ranked amongst

the smaller isles. Some, or indeed several, of this latter denomination,

are mere spots, without inhabitants. Sixty-one of these islands have

their proper places and names marked upon our chart of the Friendly

Islands, and upon the sketch of the harbour of Tongataboo, to both which

I refer the reader. But it must be left to future navigators to

introduce into the geography of this part of the South Pacific Ocean,

the exact situation and size of near a hundred more islands in this

neighbourhood, which we had not an opportunity to explore, and whose

existence we only learnt from the testimony of our friends, as above

mentioned. On their authority the following list of them was made; and

it may serve as a ground work for farther investigation.

_Names of the Friendly Islands and others in that Neighbourhood,

mentioned by the Inhabitants of Annamooka, Hapaee, and

Tongataboo._[196]

Komooefeeva,

Kollalona,

Felongaboonga,

Kovereetoa,

Fonogooeatta,

Modooanoogoo noogoo,

Tongooa,

Koooa,

Fonooa eeka,

_Vavaoo_,

Koloa,

Fafeene,

Taoonga,

Kobakeemotoo,

Kongahoonoho,

Komalla,

Konoababoo,

Konnetalle,

Komongoraffa,

Kotoolooa,

Kologobeele,

Kollokolahee,

Matageefaia,

Mallajee,

Noogoofaeeou,

Koreemou,

Failemaia,

Koweeka,

Konookoonama,

Kooonoogoo,

Geenageena,

Kowourogoheefo,

Kottejeea,

Kokabba,

Boloa,

Toofagga,

Loogoobahanga,

Taoola,

Maneeneeta,

Fonooaooma,

Fonooonneonne,

Wegaffa,

Fooamotoo,

Fonooalaiee,

Tattahoi,

Latte,

_Neuafo_,

_Feejee_,

_Oowaia_,

Novababoo,

Golabbe,

Vagaeetoo,

Gowakka,

_Goofoo_,

Mafanna,

Kolloooa,

Tabanna,

Motooha,

Looakabba,

Toofanaetollo,

Toofanaelaa,

_Kogoopoloo_,

_Havaeeeeke_,

_Tootooeela_,

_Manooka_,

_Leshainga_,

_Pappataia_,

_Loubatta_,

_Oloo_,

_Takounove_,

_Kopaoo_,

_Kovooeea_,

_Kongaireekee_,

_Tafeedoowaia_,

Mallalahee,

Gonoogoolaiee,

Toonabai,

Konnevy,

Konnevao,

Moggodoo,

Looamoggo,

_Kongaiarahoi_,

_Kotoobooo_,

_Komotte_,

_Komoarra_,

_Kolaiva_,

_Kofoona_,

_Konnagillelaivoo_,

_Hamoa_,

_Neeootabootaboo_,

_Fotoona_,

_Vytooboo_,

_Lotooma_,

_Toggelao_,

_Talava_.

I have not the least doubt that Prince William’s Islands, discovered and

so named by Tasman, are included in the foregoing list. For while we lay

at Hapaee, one of the natives told me, that, three or four days’ sail

from thence to the north-west, there was a cluster of small islands,

consisting of upward of forty. This situation corresponds very well with

that assigned in the accounts we have of Tasman’s voyage to his Prince

William’s Islands.[197]

We have also very good authority to believe that Keppel’s and Boscawen’s

Islands, two of Captain Wallis’s discoveries in 1765, are comprehended

in our list; and that they are not only well known to these people, but

are under the same sovereign. The following information seemed to me

decisive as to this. Upon my inquiring one day of Poulaho, the king, in

what manner the inhabitants of Tongataboo had acquired the knowledge of

iron, and from what quarter they had procured a small iron tool, which I

had seen amongst them, when I first visited their island, during my

former voyage, he informed me that they had received this iron from an

island, which he called Neeootabootaboo. Carrying my inquiries further,

I then desired to know whether he had ever been informed from whom the

people of Neeootabootaboo had got it. I found him perfectly acquainted

with its history. He said that one of those islanders sold a club for

five nails to a ship which had touched there; and that these five nails

afterward were sent to Tongataboo. He added that this was the first iron

known amongst them; so that, what Tasman left of that metal must have

been worn out, and forgot long ago. I was very particular in my

inquiries about the situation, size, and form of the island; expressing

my desire to know when this ship had touched there; how long she staid;

and whether any more were in company. The leading facts appeared to be

fresh in his memory. He said that there was but one ship; that she did

not come to an anchor, but left the island after her boat had been on

shore. And from many circumstances which he mentioned, it could not be

many years since this had happened. According to his information, there

are two islands near each other, which he himself had been at. The one

he described as high and peaked like Kao, and he called it Kootahee; the

other, where the people of the ship landed, called Neeootabootaboo, he

represented as much lower. He added, that the natives of both are the

same sort of people with those of Tongataboo; built their canoes in the

same manner; that their islands had hogs and fowls; and, in general, the

same vegetable productions. The ship so pointedly referred to in this

conversation could be no other than the Dolphin; the only single ship

from Europe, as far as we have ever learned, that had touched, of late

years, at any island in this part of the Pacific Ocean, prior to my

former visit to the Friendly Islands.[198]

But the most considerable islands in this neighbourhood that we now

heard of (and we heard a great deal about them), are Hamoa, Vavaoo, and

Feejee. Each of these was represented to us as larger than Tongataboo.

No European, that we know of, has as yet seen any one of them. Tasman,

indeed, lays down in his chart an island nearly in the situation where I

suppose Vavaoo to be; that is, about the latitude of 19°.[199] But,

then, that island is there marked as a very small one; whereas Vavaoo,

according to the united testimony of all our friends at Tongataboo,

exceeds the size of their own island, and has high mountains. I should

certainly have visited it; and have accompanied Feenou from Hapaee, if

he had not then discouraged me, by representing it to be very

inconsiderable, and without any harbour. But Poulaho, the king,

afterward assured me, that it was a large island; and that it not only

produced every thing in common with Tongataboo, but had the peculiar

advantage of possessing several streams of fresh water, with as good a

harbour as that which we found at his capital island. He offered to

attend me if I would visit it; adding, that, if I did not find every

thing agreeing with his representation, I might kill him. I had not the

least doubt of the truth of his intelligence; and was satisfied that

Feenou, from some interested view, attempted to deceive me.

Hamoa, which is also under the dominion of Tongataboo, lies two days’

sail north-west from Vavaoo. It was described to me as the largest of

all their islands, as affording harbours and good water; and as

producing, in abundance, every article of refreshment found at the

places we visited. Poulaho himself frequently resides there. It should

seem that the people of this island are in high estimation at

Tongataboo; for we were told that some of the songs and dances with

which we were entertained, had been copied from theirs; and we saw some

houses said to be built after their fashion. Mr. Anderson, always

inquisitive about such matters, learnt the three following words of the

dialect of Hamoa.

_Tamolao_[200], a chief man.

_Tamaety_, a chief woman.

_Solle_, a common man.

Feejee, as we were told, lies three days’ sail from Tongataboo, in the

direction of north-west by west. It was described to us as a high, but

very fruitful island; abounding with hogs, dogs, fowls, and all the

kinds of fruit and roots that are found in any of the others; and as

much larger than Tongataboo; to the dominion of which, as was

represented to us, it is not subject as the other islands of this

archipelago are. On the contrary, Feejee and Tongataboo frequently make

war upon each other. And it appeared, from several circumstances, that

the inhabitants of the latter are much afraid of this enemy. They used

to express their sense of their own inferiority to the Feejee men, by

bending the body forward, and covering the face with their hands. And it

is no wonder that they should be under this dread; for those of Feejee

are formidable on account of the dexterity with which they use their

bows and slings; but much more so, on account of the savage practice to

which they are addicted, like those of New Zealand, of eating their

enemies whom they kill in battle. We were satisfied that this was not a

misrepresentation. For we met with several Feejee people at Tongataboo,

and, on inquiring of them, they did not deny the charge.

Now that I am again led to speak of cannibals, let me ask those who

maintain that the want of food first brings men to feed on human flesh,

what is it that induceth the Feejee people to keep it up in the midst of

plenty? This practice is detested very much by those of Tongataboo, who

cultivate the friendship of their savage neighbours of Feejee,

apparently out of fear; though they sometimes venture to skirmish with

them on their own ground; and carry off red feathers as their booty,

which are in great plenty there, and, as has been frequently mentioned,

are in great estimation amongst our Friendly Islanders. When the two

islands are at peace, the intercourse between them seems to be pretty

frequent; though they have, doubtless, been but lately known to each

other; or we may suppose that Tongataboo and its adjoining islands would

have been supplied, before this, with a breed of dogs which abound at

Feejee, and had not been introduced at Tongataboo so late as 1773, when

I first visited it. The natives of Feejee, whom we met with here, were

of a colour that was a full shade darker than that of the inhabitants of

the Friendly Islands in general. One of them had his left ear slit, and

the lobe was so distended, that it almost reached his shoulder; which

singularity I had met with at other islands of the South Sea during my

second voyage. It appeared to me that the Feejee men, whom we now saw,

were much respected here; not only, perhaps, from the power, and cruel

manner of their nation’s going to war, but also from their ingenuity.

For they seem to excel the inhabitants of Tongataboo in that respect, if

we might judge from several specimens of their skill in workmanship

which we saw; such as clubs and spears, which were carved in a very

masterly manner; cloth beautifully chequered; variegated mats; earthen

pots, and some other articles; all which had a cast of superiority in

the execution.

I have mentioned that Feejee lies three days’ sail from Tongataboo,

because these people have no other method of measuring the distance from

island to island, but by expressing the time required to make the voyage

in one of their canoes. In order to ascertain this with some precision,

or, at least, to form some judgment how far these canoes can sail in a

moderate gale, in any given time, I went on board one of them when under

sail, and, by several trials with the log, found that she went seven

knots or miles in an hour, close hauled, in a gentle gale. From this I

judge that they will sail, on a medium, with such breezes as generally

blow in their sea, about seven or eight miles in an hour. But the length

of each day is not to be reckoned at twenty-four hours. For when they

spoke of one day’s sail, they mean no more than from the morning to the

evening of the same day; that is, ten or twelve hours at most. And two

days’ sail, with them, signifies from the morning of the first day to

the evening of the second; and so for any other number of days. In these

navigations the sun is their guide by day, and the stars by night. When

these are obscured, they have recourse to the points from whence the

winds and the waves came upon the vessel. If, during the obscuration,

both the wind and the waves should shift (which, within the limits of

the trade-wind, seldom happens at any other time), they are then

bewildered, frequently miss their intended port, and are never heard of

more. The history of Omai’s countrymen, who were driven to Wateeoo,

leads us to infer, that those not heard of are not always lost.