Besides walking frequently up into the country, which we were permitted

to do without interruption, we sometimes amused ourselves in shooting

wild ducks not unlike the widgeon, which are very numerous upon the salt

lake, and the pool where we got our water. In these excursions we found

the inhabitants had often deserted their houses to come down to the

trading place, without entertaining any suspicion that strangers

rambling about would take away or destroy any thing that belonged to

them. But though, from this circumstance, it might be supposed that the

greater part of the natives were sometimes collected at the beach, it

was impossible to form any accurate computation of their number, as the

continual resort of visitors from other islands mixing with them might

easily mislead one. However, as there was never to appearance, about a

thousand persons collected at one time, it would perhaps be sufficient

to allow double that number for the whole island.

To the north and north-east of Annamooka, and in the direct tract to

Hapaee, whither we were now bound, the sea is sprinkled with a great

number of small isles. Amidst the shoals and rocks adjoining to this

group, I could not be assured that there was a free or safe passage for

such large ships as ours, though the natives sailed through the

intervals in their canoes. For this substantial reason, when we weighed

anchor from Annamooka, I thought it necessary to go to the westward of

the above islands, and steered north north-west, towards Kao[179] and

Toofoa, the two most westerly islands in sight, and remarkable for their

great height. Feenou and his attendants remained on board the Resolution

till near noon, when he went into the large sailing canoe which had

brought him from Tongataboo, and stood in amongst the cluster of islands

above mentioned, of which we were now almost abreast, and a tide or

current from the westward had set us, since our sailing in the morning,

much over toward them.

They lie scattered at unequal distances, and are in general, nearly as

high as Annamooka, but only from two or three miles to half a mile in

length, and some of them scarcely so much. They have either steep rocky

shores like Annamooka, or reddish cliffs; but some have sandy beaches

extending almost their whole length. Most of them are entirely clothed

with trees, amongst which are many cocoa-palms, and each forms a

prospect like a beautiful garden placed in the sea. To heighten this,

the serene weather we now had, contributed very much; and the whole

might supply the imagination with an idea of some fairy land realized.

It should seem, that some of them at least may have been formed, as we

supposed Palmerston’s Island to have been, for there is one, which as

yet, is entirely sand, and another on which there is only one bush or

tree.

At four o’clock in the afternoon being the length of Kotoo, the

westernmost of the above cluster of small islands, we steered to the

north, leaving Toofoa and Kao on our larboard, keeping along the west

side of a reef of rocks, which lie to the westward of Kotoo, till we

came to their northern extremity, round which we hauled in for the

island. It was our intention to have anchored for the night, but it came

upon us before we could find a place in less than fifty-five fathoms’

water, and rather than come to in this depth, I chose to spend the night

under sail.

We had in the afternoon been within two leagues of Toofoa, the smoke of

which we saw several times in the day. The friendly islanders have some

superstitious notions about the volcano upon it, which they call

_Kollofeea_, and say it is an _Otooa_, or divinity. According to their

account, it sometimes throws up very large stones; and they compare the

_crater_ to the size of a small islot, which has never ceased smoking in

their memory, nor have they any tradition that it ever did. We sometimes

saw the smoke rising from the centre of the island, while we were at

Annamooka, though at the distance of at least ten leagues. Toofoa, we

were told, is but thinly inhabited, but the water upon it is good.

At day-break the next morning, being then not far from Kao, which is a

vast rock of a conic figure, we steered to the east for the passage

between the islands Footooha and Hafaiva, with a gentle breeze at

south-east. About ten o’clock, Feenou came on board, and remained with

us all day. He brought with him two hogs and a quantity of fruit; and,

in the course of the day, several canoes from the different islands

round us, came to barter quantities of the latter article, which was

very acceptable, as our stock was nearly expended. At noon, our latitude

was 19° 49ʹ 45ʺ S., and we had made seven miles of longitude from

Annamooka; Toofoa bore north, 88° W.; Kao north, 71° W.; Footooha north,

89° W.; and Hafaiva south, 12° W.

After passing Footooha, we met with a reef of rocks, and as there was

but little wind, it cost us some trouble to keep clear of them. This

reef lies between Footooha and Neeneeva, which is a small low isle in

the direction of east north-east from Footooha, at the distance of seven

or eight miles. Footooha is a small island of middling height, and

bounded all round by a steep rock. It lies south 67° E., distant six

leagues from Kao, and three leagues from Kotoo, in the direction of

north 33° E. Being past the reef of rocks just mentioned, we hauled up

for Neeneeva, in hopes of finding anchorage, but were again

disappointed, and obliged to spend the night in making short boards.

For, although we had land in every direction, the sea was unfathomable.

In the course of this night, we could plainly see flames issuing from

the volcano upon Toofoa, though to no great height.

At day-break in the morning of the 16th, with a gentle breeze at

south-east, we steered north-east for Hapaee, which was now in sight,

and we could judge it to be low land from the trees only appearing above

the water. About nine o’clock, we could see it plainly forming three

islands nearly of an equal size; and soon after, a fourth to the

southward of these, as large as the others. Each seemed to be about six

or seven miles long, and of a similar height and appearance. The

northernmost of them is called Haanno, the next Foa, the third Lefooga,

and the southernmost Hoolaiva; but all four are included by the natives

under the general name Hapaee.

The wind scanting upon us, we could not fetch the land, so that we were

forced to ply to windward. In doing this we once passed over some coral

rocks, on which we had only six fathoms water; but the moment we were

over them, found no ground with eighty fathoms of line. At this time,

the isles of Hapaee bore from north, 50° E., to south, 9° W. We got up

with the northernmost of these isles by sunset, and there found

ourselves in the very same distress for want of anchorage, that we had

experienced the two preceding evenings; so that we had another night to

spend under sail, with land and breakers in every direction. Toward the

evening Feenou, who had been on board all day, went forward to Hapaee,

and took Omai in the canoe with him. He did not forget our disagreeable

situation, and kept up a good fire all night, by way of a land-mark.

As soon as the day-light returned, being then close in with Foa, we saw

it was joined to Haanno, by a reef running even with the surface of the

sea, from the one island to the other. I now dispatched a boat to look

for anchorage. A proper place was soon found, and we came-to abreast of

a reef, being that which joins Lefooga to Foa, (in the same manner that

Foa is joined to Haanno), having twenty-four fathoms’ depth of water;

the bottom coral sand. In this station, the northern point of Hapaee, or

the north-end of Haanno, bore north, 16° E. The southern point of

Hapaee, or the south end of Hoolaiva, south, 29° W.; and the north end

of Lefooga, south, 65° E. Two ledges of rocks lay without us; the one

bearing south, 50° W.; and the other west by north one half north,

distant two or three miles. We lay before a creek in the reef, which

made it convenient landing at all times, and we were not above three

quarters of a mile from the shore.

CHAP. V.

ARRIVAL OF THE SHIPS AT HAPAEE, AND FRIENDLY RECEPTION THERE.—PRESENTS

AND SOLEMNITIES ON THE OCCASION.—SINGLE COMBATS WITH CLUBS.—WRESTLING

AND BOXING MATCHES.—FEMALE COMBATANTS.—MARINES EXERCISED.—A DANCE

PERFORMED BY MEN.—FIREWORKS EXHIBITED.—THE NIGHT ENTERTAINMENTS OF

SINGING AND DANCING PARTICULARLY DESCRIBED.

By the time we had anchored, the ships were filled with the natives, and

surrounded by a multitude of canoes, filled also with them. They brought

from the shore, hogs, fowls, fruit, and roots, which they exchanged for

hatchets, knives, nails, beads, and cloth. Feenou and Omai having come

on board after it was light, in order to introduce me to the people of

the island, I soon accompanied them on shore for that purpose, landing

at the north part of Lefooga, a little to the right of the ship’s

station.

The chief conducted me to a house, or rather a hut, situated close to

the sea-beach, which I had seen brought thither but a few minutes before

for our reception. In this Feenou, Omai and myself were seated. The

other chiefs and the multitude composed a circle on the outside,

fronting us, and they also sat down. I was then asked, how long I

intended to stay? On my saying five days, Taipa was ordered to come and

sit by me, and proclaim this to the people. He then harangued them in a

speech mostly dictated by Feenou. The purport of it, as I learned from

Omai, was, that they were all, both old and young, to look upon me as a

friend, who intended to remain with them a few days; that during my stay

they must not steal any thing, nor molest me any other way; and that it

was expected they should bring hogs, fowls, fruit, &c. to the ships,

where they would receive in exchange for them, such and such things,

which he enumerated. Soon after Taipa had finished this address to the

assembly, Feenou left us. Taipa then took occasion to signify to me,

that it was necessary I should make a present to the chief of the

island, whose name was Earoupa. I was not unprepared for this, and gave

him such articles as far exceeded his expectation. My liberality to him

brought upon me demands of the same kind, from two chiefs of other isles

who were present, and from Taipa himself. When Feenou returned, which

was immediately after I had made the last of these presents, he

pretended to be angry with Taipa for suffering me to give away so much;

but I looked upon this as a mere finesse, being confident that he acted

in concert with the others. He now took his seat again, and ordered

Earoupa to sit by him, and to harangue the people as Taipa had done, and

to the same purpose; dictating, as before, the heads of the speech.

These ceremonies being performed, the chief, at my request, conducted me

to three stagnant pools of fresh water, as he was pleased to call it:

and indeed, in one of these the water was tolerable, and the situation

not inconvenient for filling our casks. After viewing the

watering-place, we returned to our former station, where I found a baked

hog and some yams, smoking hot, ready to be carried on board for my

dinner. I invited Feenou and his friends to partake of it, and we

embarked for the ship; but none but himself sat down with us at the

table. After dinner I conducted them on shore, and before I returned on

board, the chief gave me a fine large turtle and a quantity of yams. Our

supply of provisions was copious, for, in the course of the day, we got

by barter alongside the ship, about twenty small hogs, beside fruit and

roots. I was told, that, on my first landing in the morning, a man came

off to the ships and ordered every one of the natives to go on shore.

Probably this was done with a view to have the whole body of inhabitants

present at the ceremony of my reception, for when that was over

multitudes of them returned again to the ships.

Next morning early, Feenou and Omai, who scarcely ever quitted the

chief, and now slept on shore, came on board. The object of the visit,

was to require my presence upon the island. After some time I

accompanied them, and upon landing was conducted to the same place where

I had been seated the day before, and where I saw a large concourse of

people already assembled. I guessed that something more than ordinary

was in agitation, but could not tell what, nor could Omai inform me.

I had not been long seated, before near a hundred of the natives

appeared in sight, and advanced laden with yams, bread-fruit, plantains,

cocoa-nuts, and sugar-canes. They deposited their burdens in two heaps

or piles, upon our left, being the side they came from. Soon after,

arrived a number of others from the right, bearing the same kind of

articles; which were collected into two piles upon that side. To these

were tied two pigs and six fowls, and to those upon the left six pigs

and two turtles. Earoupa seated himself before the several articles upon

the left, and another chief before those upon the right; they being as I

judged, the two chiefs who had collected them, by order of Feenou, who

seemed to be as implicitly obeyed here as he had been at Annamooka; and,

in consequence of his commanding superiority over the chiefs of Hapaee,

had laid his tax upon them for the present occasion.

As soon as this munificent collection of provisions was laid down in

order, and disposed to the best advantage, the bearers of it joined the

multitude, who formed a large circle round the whole. Presently after a

number of men entered this circle or area, before us, armed with clubs,

made of the green branches of the cocoa-nut tree. These paraded about

for a few minutes, and then retired, the one half to one side, and the

other half to the other side; seating themselves before the spectators.

Soon after they successively entered the lists, and entertained us with

single combats. One champion rising up and stepping forward from one

side, challenged those of the other side, by expressive gestures, more

than by words, to send one of their body to oppose him. If the challenge

was accepted, which was generally the case, the two combatants put

themselves in proper attitudes, and then began the engagement, which

continued till one or other owned himself conquered, or till their

weapons were broken. As soon as each combat was over, the victor

squatted himself down facing the chief, then rose up and retired. At the

same time some old men, who seemed to sit as judges, gave their plaudit

in a few words; and the multitude, especially those on the side to which

the victor belonged, celebrated the glory he had acquired in two or

three huzzas.

This entertainment was now and then suspended for a few minutes. During

these intervals, there were both wrestling and boxing matches. The first

were performed in the same manner as at Otaheite, and the second

differed very little from the method practised in England. But what

struck us with most surprise, was to see a couple of lusty wenches step

forth and begin boxing, without the least ceremony, and with as much art

as the men. This contest, however, did not last above half a minute

before one of them gave it up. The conquering heroine received the same

applause from the spectators, which they bestowed upon the successful

combatants of the other sex. We expressed some dislike at this part of

the entertainment, which, however, did not prevent two other females

from entering the lists. They seemed to be girls of spirit, and would

certainly have given each other a good drubbing, if two old women had

not interposed to part them. All these combats were exhibited in the

midst of at least three thousand people; and were conducted with the

greatest good humour on all sides, though some of the champions, women

as well as men, received blows, which, doubtless, they must have felt

for some time after.

As soon as these diversions were ended, the chief told me that the heaps

of provisions on our right hand were a present to Omai, and that those

on our left hand, being about two-thirds of the whole quantity, were

given to me. He added, that I might take them on board whenever it was

convenient; but that there would be no occasion to set any of our people

as guards over them, as I might be assured that not a single cocoa-nut

would be taken away by the natives. So it proved, for I left every thing

behind, and returned to the ship to dinner, carrying the chief with me;

and when the provisions were removed on board in the afternoon, not a

single article was missing. There was as much as loaded four boats; and

I could not but be struck with the munificence of Feenou; for this

present far exceeded any I had ever received from any of the sovereigns

of the various islands I had visited in the Pacific Ocean. I lost no

time in convincing my friend that I was not insensible of his

liberality; for before he quitted my ship, I bestowed upon him such of

our commodities as I guessed were most valuable in his estimation. And

the return I made was so much to his satisfaction, that as soon as he

got on shore, he left me still indebted to him, by sending me a fresh

present, consisting of two large hogs, a considerable quantity of cloth,

and some yams.

Feenou had expressed a desire to see the marines go through their

military exercise. As I was desirous to gratify his curiosity, I ordered

them all ashore from both ships, in the morning of the 20th. After they

had performed various evolutions, and fired several vollies, with which

the numerous body of spectators seemed well pleased, the chief

entertained us in his turn, with an exhibition, which, as was

acknowledged by us all, was performed with a dexterity and exactness far

surpassing the specimen we had given of our military manœuvres. It was a

kind of dance, so entirely different from any thing I had ever seen,

that I fear I can give no description that will convey any tolerable

idea of it to my readers. It was performed by men, and one hundred and

five persons bore their parts in it. Each of them had in his hand an

instrument neatly made, shaped somewhat liked a paddle, of two feet and

a half in length, with a small handle and a thin blade, so that they

were very light. With these instruments they made many and various

flourishes, each of which was accompanied with a different attitude of

the body, or a different movement. At first, the performers ranged

themselves in three lines; and by various evolutions, each man changed

his station in such a manner, that those who had been in the rear came

into the front. Nor did they remain long in the same position, but these

changes were made by pretty quick transitions. At one time they extended

themselves in one line; they then formed into a semicircle; and, lastly,

into two square columns. While this last movement was executing, one of

them advanced, and performed an antic dance before me, with which the

whole ended.

The musical instruments consisted of two drums, or rather two hollow

logs of wood, from which some varied notes were produced, by beating on

them with two sticks. It did not, however, appear to me, that the

dancers were much assisted or directed by these sounds, but by a chorus

of vocal music, in which all the performers joined at the same time.

Their song was not destitute of pleasing melody; and all their

corresponding motions were executed with so much skill, that the

numerous body of dancers seemed to act, as if they were one great

machine. It was the opinion of every one of us, that such a performance

would have met with universal applause on a European theatre; and it so

far exceeded any attempt we had made to entertain them, that they seemed

to picque themselves upon the superiority they had over us. As to our

musical instruments, they held none of them in the least esteem, except

the drum; and even that they did not think equal to their own. Our

French horns in particular, seemed to be held in great contempt; for

neither here, nor at any other of the islands, would they pay the

smallest attention to them.

In order to give them a more favourable opinion of English amusements,

and to leave their minds fully impressed with the deepest sense of our

superior attainments, I directed some fireworks to be got ready; and,

after it was dark, played them off in the presence of Feenou, the other

chiefs, and a vast concourse of their people. Some of the preparations

we found damaged; but others of them were in excellent order, and

succeeded so perfectly, as to answer the end I had in view. Our water

and sky-rockets, in particular, pleased and astonished them beyond all

conception; and the scale was now turned in our favour.

This, however, seemed only to furnish them with an additional motive to

proceed to fresh exertions of their very singular dexterity; and our

fireworks were no sooner ended, than a succession of dances, which

Feenou had got ready for our entertainment, began. As[180] a prelude to

them, a band of music, or chorus of eighteen men, seated themselves

before us, in the centre of the circle, composed by the numerous

spectators, the area of which was to be the scene of the exhibitions.

Four or five of this band, had pieces of large bamboo, from three to

five or six feet long, each managed by one man, who held it nearly in a

vertical position, the upper end open, but the other end closed by one

of the joints. With this close end, the performers kept constantly

striking the ground, though slowly, thus producing different notes,

according to the different lengths of the instruments, but all of them

of the hollow or base sort; to counteract which, a person kept striking

quickly, and with two sticks, a piece of the same substance, split, and

laid along the ground, and, by that means, furnishing a tone as acute as

those produced by the others were grave. The rest of the band, as well

as those who performed upon the bamboos, sung a slow and soft air, which

so tempted the harsher notes of the above instruments, that no

bye-stander, however accustomed to hear the most perfect and varied

modulation of sweet sounds, could avoid confessing the vast power, and

pleasing effect, of this simple harmony.

The concert having continued about a quarter of an hour, twenty women

entered the circle. Most of them had, upon their heads, garlands of the

crimson flowers of the China rose, or others; and many of them had

ornamented their persons with leaves of trees, cut with a great deal of

nicety about the edges. They made a circle round the chorus, turning

their faces toward it, and began by singing a soft air, to which

responses were made by the chorus in the same tone; and these were

repeated alternately. All this while, the women accompanied their song

with several very graceful motions of their hands toward their faces,

and in other directions at the same time, making constantly a step

forward, and then back again, with one foot, while the other was fixed.

They then turned their faces to the assembly, sung some time, and

retreated slowly in a body, to that part of the circle which was

opposite the hut where the principal spectators sat. After this, one of

them advanced from each side, meeting and passing each other in the

front, and continuing their progress round, till they came to the rest.

On which two advanced from each side, two of whom also passed each

other, and returned as the former; but the other two remained, and to

these came one from each side, by intervals, till the whole number had

again formed a circle about the chorus.

Their manner of dancing was now changed to a quicker measure, in which

they made a kind of half turn by leaping, and clapped their hands, and

snapped their fingers, repeating some words in conjunction with the

chorus. Toward the end, as the quickness of the music increased, their

gestures and attitudes were varied with wonderful vigour and dexterity;

and some of their motions, perhaps, would, with us, be reckoned rather

indecent. Though this part of the performance, most probably, was not

meant to convey any wanton ideas, but merely to display the astonishing

variety of their movements.

To this grand female ballet, succeeded one performed by fifteen men.

Some of them were old; but their age seemed to have abated little of

their agility or ardour for the dance. They were disposed in a sort of

circle, divided at the front, with their faces not turned out toward the

assembly, nor inward to the chorus; but one half of their circle faced

forward as they had advanced, and the other half in a contrary

direction. They sometimes sung slowly, in concert with the chorus; and,

while thus employed, they also made several very fine motions with their

hands, but different from those made by the women, at the same time

inclining the body to either side alternately, by raising one leg, which

was stretched outward, and resting on the other; the arm of the same

side being also stretched fully upward. At other times, they recited

sentences in a musical tone, which were answered by the chorus; and, at

intervals, increased the measure of the dance, by clapping the hands,

and quickening the motions of the feet, which, however, were never

varied. At the end, the rapidity of the music, and of the dancing,

increased so much, that it was scarcely possible to distinguish the

different movements; though one might suppose the actors were now almost

tired, as their performance had lasted near half an hour.

After a considerable interval, another act as we may call it, began.

Twelve men now advanced, who placed themselves in double rows fronting

each other, but on opposite sides of the circle; and, on one side a man

was stationed, who, as if he had been a prompter, repeated several

sentences, to which the twelve new performers, and the chorus, replied.

They then sung slowly; and afterward danced and sung more quickly, for

about a quarter of an hour, after the manner of the dancers whom they

had succeeded.

Soon after they had finished, nine women exhibited themselves, and sat

down fronting the hut where the chief was. A man then rose, and struck

the first of these women on the back, with both fists joined. He

proceeded, in the same manner, to the second and third; but when he came

to the fourth, whether from accident or design I cannot tell, instead of

the back, he struck her on the breast. Upon this, a person rose

instantly from the crowd, who brought him to the ground with a blow on

the head; and he was carried off without the least noise or disorder.

But this did not save the other five women from so odd a discipline, or

perhaps necessary ceremony; for a person succeeded him, who treated them

in the same manner. Their disgrace did not end here; for when they

danced, they had the mortification to find their performance, twice

disapproved of, and were obliged to repeat it. This dance did not differ

much from that of the first women, except in this one circumstance, that

the present set, sometimes raised the body upon one leg, by a sort of

double motion, and then upon the other alternately, in which attitude

they kept snapping their fingers; and, at the end, they repeated, with

great agility, the brisk movements, in which the former group of female

dancers had shown themselves so expert.

In a little time, a person entered unexpectedly, and said something in a

ludicrous way, about the fireworks that had been exhibited, which

extorted a burst of laughter from the multitude. After this, we had a

dance composed of the men who attended or had followed Feenou. They

formed a double circle (_i. e._ one within another) of twenty-four each,

round the chorus, and began a gentle soothing song, with corresponding

motions of the hands and head. This lasted a considerable time, and then

changed to a much quicker measure, during which they repeated sentences,

either in conjunction with the chorus, or in answer to some spoken by

that band. They then retreated to the back part of the circle, as the

women had done, and again advanced, on each side, in a triple row, till

they formed a semicircle, which was done very slowly, by inclining the

body on one leg, and advancing the other a little way, as they put it

down. They accompanied this, with such a soft air as they had sung at

the beginning; but soon changed it to repeat sentences in a harsher

tone, at the same time quickening the dance very much, till they

finished with a general shout and clap of the hands. The same was

repeated several times; but, at last, they formed a double circle, as at

the beginning, danced, and repeated very quickly, and finally closed

with several very dexterous transpositions of the two circles.

The entertainments of this memorable night concluded with a dance, in

which the principal people present exhibited. It resembled the

immediately preceding one, in some respects, having the same number of

performers, who began nearly in the same way; but their ending, at each

interval, was different. For they increased their motions to a

prodigious quickness, shaking their heads from shoulder to shoulder,

with such force, that a spectator, unaccustomed to the sight, would

suppose, that they ran a risk of dislocating their necks. This was

attended with a smart clapping of the hands, and a kind of savage holla,

or shriek, not unlike what is sometimes practised in the comic dances on

our European theatres. They formed the triple semi-circle, as the

preceding dancers had done; and a person who advanced at the head on one

side of the semi-circle, began by repeating something in a truly musical

recitative, which was delivered with an air so graceful, as might put to

the blush our most applauded performers. He was answered in the same

manner, by the person at the head of the opposite party. This being

repeated several times, the whole body on one side joined in the

responses to the whole corresponding body on the opposite side, as the

semi-circle advanced to the front; and they finished, by singing and

dancing as they had begun.

These two last dances were performed with so much spirit, and so great

exactness, that they met with universal approbation. The native

spectators, who no doubt were perfect judges whether the several

performances were properly executed, could not withhold their applauses

at some particular parts; and even a stranger, who never saw the

diversion before, felt similar satisfaction, at the same instant. For

though, through the whole, the most strict concert was observed, some of

the gestures were so expressive, that it might be said they spoke the

language that accompanied them, if we allow that there is any connection

between motion and sound. At the same time, it should be observed, that

though the music of the chorus and that of the dancers corresponded,

constant practice in these favourite amusements of our friends, seems to

have a great share in effecting the exact time they keep in their

performances. For we observed, that if any of them happened accidentally

to be interrupted, they never found the smallest difficulty in

recovering the proper place of the dance or song. And their perfect

discipline was, in no instance, more remarkable, than in the sudden

transitions, they so dexterously made from the ruder exertions, and

harsh sounds, to the softest arts and gentlest movements.[181]

The place where the dances were performed, was an open space amongst the

trees, just by the sea, with lights, at small intervals, placed round

the inside of the circle. The concourse of people was pretty large,

though not equal to the number assembled in the forenoon, when the

marines exercised. At that time, some of our gentlemen guessed there

might be present about five thousand persons; others thought there were

more; but they who reckoned that there were fewer, probably came nearer

to the truth.

CHAP. VI.

DESCRIPTION OF LEFOOGA.—ITS CULTIVATED STATE.—ITS EXTENT.—TRANSACTIONS

THERE.—A FEMALE OCULIST.—SINGULAR EXPEDIENTS FOR SHAVING OFF THE

HAIR.—THE SHIPS CHANGE THEIR STATION.—A REMARKABLE MOUNT AND STONE.—

DESCRIPTION OF HOOLAIVA.—ACCOUNT OF POULAHO, KING OF THE FRIENDLY

ISLANDS.—RESPECTFUL MANNER IN WHICH HE IS TREATED BY HIS PEOPLE.—

DEPARTURE FROM THE HAPAEE ISLANDS.—SOME ACCOUNT OF KOTOO.—RETURN OF

THE SHIPS TO ANNAMOOKA.—POULAHO AND FEENOU MEET.—ARRIVAL AT

TONGATABOO.

Curiosity on both sides being now sufficiently gratified, by the

exhibition of the various entertainments I have described, I began to

have time to look about me. Accordingly, next day, I took a walk into

the island of Lefooga, of which I was desirous to obtain some knowledge.

I found it to be in several respects superior to Annamooka. The

plantations were both more numerous, and more extensive. In many places,

indeed, toward the sea, especially on the east side, the country is

still waste, owing perhaps to the sandy soil; as it is much lower than

Annamooka, and its surrounding isles. But toward the middle of the

island, the soil is better; and the marks of considerable population,

and of improved cultivation, were very conspicuous. For we met here with

very large plantations, inclosed in such a manner, that the fences

running parallel to each other, from fine spacious public roads, that

would appear ornamental in countries where rural conveniencies have been

carried to the greatest perfection. We observed large spots covered with

the paper mulberry-trees; and the plantations in general were well

stocked with such roots and fruits as are the natural produce of the

island. To these I made some addition, by sowing the seeds of Indian

corn, melons, pumpkins, and the like. At one place was a house four or

five times as large as those of the common sort, with a large area of

grass before it; and I take it for granted, the people resort thither on

certain public occasions. Near the landing-place we saw a mount two or

three feet high, covered with gravel; and on it stood four or five small

huts, in which the natives told us, the bodies of some of their

principal people had been interred.

The island is not above seven miles long, and in some places not above

two or three broad. The east side of it, which is exposed to the

trade-wind, has a reef running to a considerable breadth from it, on

which the sea breaks with great violence. It is a continuation of this

reef that joins Lefooga to Foa, which is not above half a mile distant;

and at low water the natives can walk upon this reef, which is then

partly dry, from the one island to the other. The shore itself is either

a coral rock, six or seven feet high, or a sandy beach; but higher than

the west side, which in general is not more than three or four feet from

the level of the sea, with a sandy beach its whole length.

When I returned from my excursion into the country, and went on board to

dinner, I found a large sailing canoe fast to the ship’s stern. In this

canoe was Latooliboula, whom I had seen at Tongataboo, during my last

voyage, and who was then supposed by us to be the king of that island.

He sat in the canoe with all that gravity, by which, as I have mentioned

in my journal[182], he was so remarkably distinguished at that time; nor

could I by any entreaties, prevail upon him now to come into the ship.

Many of the islanders were present, and they all call him _Arekee_,

which signifies king. I had never heard any one of them give this title

to Feenou, however extensive his authority over them both here and at

Annamooka, had appeared to be; which had all along inclined me to

suspect that he was not the king, though his friend Taipa had taken

pains to make me believe he was. Latooliboula remained under the stern

till the evening, when he retired in his canoe to one of the islands.

Feenou was on board my ship at the same time; but neither of these great

men took the least notice of the other.

Nothing material happened the next day, except that some of the natives

stole a tarpaulin, and other things from off the deck. They were soon

missed and the thieves pursued, but a little too late. I applied,

therefore, to Feenou, who, if he was not king, was at least vested with

the highest authority here, to exert it, in order to have my things

restored. He referred me to Earoupa, who put me off from time to time;

and at last nothing was done.

In the morning of the 23d, as we were going to unmoor, in order to leave

the island, Feenou and his prime-minister Taipa, came alongside in a

sailing canoe, and informed me that they were setting out for Vavaoo, an

island, which they said, lies about two days’ sail to the northward of

Hapaee. The object of their voyage, they would have me believe, was to

get for me an additional supply of hogs, and some red-feathered caps for

Omai, to carry to Otaheite, where they are in high esteem. Feenou

assured me that he should be back in four or five days; and desired me

not to sail till his return, when he promised he would accompany me to

Tongataboo. I thought this a good opportunity to get some knowledge of

Vavaoo, and proposed to him to go thither with the ships. But he seemed

not to approve of the plan; and, by way of diverting me from it, told me

that there was neither harbour nor anchorage about it. I, therefore,

consented to wait in my present station for his return, and he

immediately set out.

The next day our attention was for some time taken up with a report,

industriously spread about by some of the natives, that a ship like

ours, had arrived at Annamooka since we left it, and was now at anchor

there. The propagators of the report were pleased to add, that Toobou,

the chief of that island, was hastening thither to receive these

newcomers; and as we knew that he had actually left us, we were the more

ready to believe there might be some foundation for the story of this

unexpected arrival. However, to gain some farther information, I went on

shore with Omai, in quest of the man, who, it was said, had brought the

first account of this event from Annamooka. We found him at the house of

Earoupa, where Omai put such questions to him as I thought necessary;

and the answers he gave were so clear and satisfactory, that I had not a

doubt remaining. But just about this time, a chief of some note, whom we

well knew, arrived from Annamooka, and declared that no ship was at that

island, nor had been since our leaving it. The propagator of the report,

finding himself detected in a falsehood, instantly withdrew, and we saw

no more of him. What end the invention of this tale could answer, it was

not easy to conjecture; unless we suppose it to have been artfully

contrived, to get us removed from the one island to the other.

In my walk on the 25th, I happened to step into a house, where a woman

was dressing the eyes of a young child, who seemed blind; the eyes being

much inflamed, and a thin film spread over them. The instruments she

used were two slender wooden probes, with which she had brushed the eyes

so as to make them bleed. It seems worth mentioning, that the natives of

these islands should attempt an operation of this sort; though I entered

the house too late, to describe exactly how this female oculist employed

the wretched tools she had to work with.

I was fortunate enough to see a different operation going on in the same

house, of which I can give a tolerable account. I found there another

woman shaving a child’s head with a shark’s tooth stuck into the end of

a piece of stick. I observed, that she first wet the hair with a rag

dipped in water, applying her instrument to that part which she had

previously soaked. The operation seemed to give no pain to the child,

although the hair was taken off as close as if one of our razors had

been employed. Encouraged by what I now saw, I soon after tried one of

these singular instruments upon myself, and found it to be an excellent

_succedaneum_. However, the men of these islands have recourse to

another contrivance when they shave their beards. The operation is

performed with two shells, one of which they place under a small part of

the beard, and with the other applied above, they scrape that part off.

In this manner they are able to shave very close. The process is,

indeed, rather tedious, but not painful; and there are men amongst them

who seem to profess this trade. It was as common, while we were here, to

see our sailors go ashore to have their beards scraped off, after the

fashion of Hapaee, as it was to see their chiefs come on board to be

shaved by our barbers.

Finding that little or nothing of the produce of the island was now

brought to the ships, I resolved to change our station, and to wait

Feenou’s return from Vavaoo, in some other convenient anchoring-place,

where refreshments might still be met with. Accordingly, in the forenoon

of the 26th, we got under sail, and stood to the southward along the

reef of the island; having fourteen and thirteen fathoms’ water, with a

sandy bottom. However, we met with several detached shoals. Some of them

were discovered by breakers; some by the water upon them appearing

discoloured; and others by the lead. At half past two in the afternoon,

having already passed several of these shoals, and seeing more of them

before us, I hauled into a bay that lies between the south end of

Lefooga, and the north end of Hoolaiva, and there anchored in seventeen

fathoms’ water, the bottom a coral sand; the point of Lefooga bearing

south-east by east, a mile and a half distant. The Discovery did not get

to an anchor till sunset. She had touched upon one of the shoals, but

backed off again without receiving any damage.

As soon as we had anchored, I sent Mr. Bligh to sound the bay where we

were now stationed; and myself, accompanied by Mr. Gore, landed on the

southern part of Lefooga, to examine the country, and to look for fresh

water; not that we now wanted a supply of this article, having filled

all the casks at our late station; but I had been told, that this part

of the island could afford us some, preferable to any we had got at the

former watering-place. This will not be the only time I shall have

occasion to remark, that these people do not know what good water is. We

were conducted to two wells; but the water in both of them proved to be

execrable; and the natives, our guides, assured us that they had none

better.

Near the south end of the island, and on the west side, we met with an

artificial mount. From the size of some trees that were growing upon it,

and from other appearances, I guessed that it had been raised in remote

times. I judged it to be about forty feet high, and the diameter of its

summit measured fifty feet. At the bottom of this mount stood a stone,

which must have been hewn out of coral rock. It was four feet broad, two

and a half thick, and fourteen high; and we were told by the natives

present, that not above half its length appeared above ground. They

called it _Tangata Arekee_[183]; and said that it had been set up, and

the mount raised, by some of their forefathers, in memory of one of

their kings; but how long since they could not tell.

Night coming on, Mr. Gore and I returned on board; and, at the same time

Mr. Bligh got back from sounding the bay, in which he found from

fourteen to twenty fathoms’ water; the bottom for the most part sand,

but not without some coral rocks. The place where we now anchored is

much better sheltered than that which we had lately come from; but

between the two is another anchoring station, much better than either.

Lefooga and Hoolaiva are divided from each other by a reef of coral

rocks, which is dry at low water; so that one may walk at that time,

from the one to the other without wetting a foot. Some of our gentlemen,

who landed in the latter island, did not find the least mark of

cultivation, or habitation upon it, except a single hut, the residence

of a man employed to catch fish and turtle. It is rather extraordinary

that it should be in this deserted state, communicating so immediately

with Lefooga, which is so perfectly cultivated; for though the soil is

quite sandy, all the trees and plants found in a natural state on the

neighbouring islands, are produced here with the greatest vigour. The

east side of it has a reef like Lefooga; and the west side has a bending

at the north part, where there seems to be good anchorage. Uninhabited

as Hoolaiva is, an artificial mount, like that at the adjoining island,

has been raised upon it, as high as some of the surrounding trees.

At day-break next morning I made the signal to weigh; and as I intended

to attempt a passage to Annamooka, in my way to Tongataboo, by the

south-west, amongst the intervening islands, I sent the master in a boat

to sound before the ships. But before we could get under sail, the wind

became unsettled; which made it unsafe to attempt a passage in this way,

till we were better acquainted with it. I therefore lay fast, and made

the signal for the master to return; and afterward sent him and the

master of the Discovery, each in a boat, with instructions to examine

the channels as far as they could, allowing themselves time to get back

to the ships before the close of the day.

About noon a large sailing canoe came under our stern, in which was a

person named Futtafaihe, or Poulaho, or both; who, as the natives then

on board told us, was king of Tongataboo, and of all the neighbouring

islands that we had seen or heard of. It was a matter of surprize to me

to have a stranger introduced under this character, which I had so much

reason to believe really belonged to another. But they persisted in

their account of the supreme dignity of this new visitor; and now, for

the first time, they owned to me that Feenou was not the king, but only

a subordinate chief, though of great power, as he was often sent from

Tongataboo to the other islands on warlike expeditions, or to decide

differences. It being my interest as well as my inclination to pay court

to all the great men, without making inquiry into the validity of their

assumed titles; I invited Poulaho on board, as I understood he was very

desirous to come. He could not be an unwelcome guest; for he brought

with him, as a present to me, two good fat hogs, though not so fat as

himself. If weight of body could give weight in rank or power, he was

certainly the most eminent man in that respect we had seen; for, though

not very tall, he was very unwieldy, and almost shapeless with

corpulence. He seemed to be about forty years of age, had straight hair,

and his features differed a good deal from those of the bulk of his

people. I found him to be a sedate sensible man. He viewed the ship and

the several new objects with uncommon attention; and asked many

pertinent questions, one of which was, what could induce us to visit

these islands? After he had satisfied his curiosity in looking at the

cattle, and other novelties which he met with upon deck, I desired him

to walk down into the cabin. To this some of his attendants objected,

saying, that if he were to accept of that invitation, it must happen

that people would walk over his head, which could not be permitted. I

directed my interpreter Omai to tell them, that I would obviate their

objection, by giving orders that no one should presume to walk upon that

part of the deck which was over the cabin. Whether this expedient would

have satisfied them was far from appearing; but the chief himself, less

scrupulous in this respect than his attendants, waved all ceremony, and

walked down without any stipulation. He now appeared to be as solicitous

himself as his people were, to convince us that he was king, and not

Feenou, who had passed with us as such, for he soon perceived that we

had some doubts about it; which doubts Omai was not very desirous of

removing. The closest connection had been formed between him and Feenou,

in testimony of which they had exchanged names; and, therefore, he was

not a little chagrined that another person now put in his claim to the

honours which his friend had hitherto enjoyed.

Poulaho sat down with us to dinner; but he ate little, and drank less.

When we arose from the table, he desired me to accompany him ashore.

Omai was asked to be of the party; but he was too faithfully attached to

Feenou to show any attention to his competitor; and therefore excused

himself. I attended the chief in my own boat, having first made presents

to him of such articles as I could observe he valued much, and were even

beyond his expectation to receive. I was not disappointed in my view of

thus securing his friendship; for the moment the boat reached the beach,

and before he quitted her, he ordered two more hogs to be brought and

delivered to my people to be conveyed on board. He was then carried out

of the boat by some of his own people upon a board resembling a

hand-barrow, and went and seated himself in a small house near the

shore, which seemed to have been erected there for his accommodation. He

placed me at his side; and his attendants, who were not numerous, seated

themselves in a semi-circle before us on the outside of the house.

Behind the chief, or rather on one side, sat an old woman with a sort of

fan in her hand, whose office it was to prevent his being pestered with

the flies.

The several articles which his people had got by trading on board the

ships were now displayed before him. He looked over them all with

attention, inquired what they had given in exchange, and seemed pleased

with the bargains they had made. At length he ordered every thing to be

restored to the respective owners, except a glass bowl, with which he

was so much pleased that he reserved it for himself. The persons who

brought these things to him first squatted themselves down before him,

then they deposited their several purchases, and immediately rose up and

retired. The same respectful ceremony was observed in taking them away;

and not one of them presumed to speak to him standing. I stayed till

several of his attendants left him, first paying him obeisance, by

bowing the head down to the sole of his foot, and touching or tapping

the same with the upper and under side of the fingers of both hands.

Others who were not in the circle came, as it seemed, on purpose, and

paid him this mark of respect, and then retired without speaking a word.

I was quite charmed with the decorum that was observed. I had no where

seen the like, not even amongst more civilized nations.

I found the master returned from his expedition when I got on board. He

informed me, that, as far as he had proceeded, there was anchorage and a

passage for the ships; but that towards the south and south-east he saw

a number of small isles, shoals, and breakers. Judging from this report

that my attempting a passage that way would be attended with some risk,

I now dropped all thoughts of it, thinking it better to return toward

Annamooka by the same route, which we had so lately experienced to be a

safe one.

Having come to this resolution, I should have sailed next morning, if

the wind had not been too far southerly, and, at the same time, very

unsettled. Poulaho, the king, as I shall now call him, came on board

betimes, and brought as a present to me, one of their caps, made, or at

least covered with red feathers. These caps were much sought after by

us, for we knew they would be highly valued at Otaheite. But though very

large prices were offered, not one was ever brought for sale; which

showed that they were no less valuable in the estimation of the people

here; nor was there a person in either ship that could make himself the

proprietor of one, except myself, Captain Clerke, and Omai. These caps,

or rather bonnets, are composed of the tail feathers of the tropic bird,

with the red feathers of the parroquets wrought upon them, or jointly

with them. They are made so as to tie upon the forehead without any

crown, and have the form of a semicircle, whose _radius_ is eighteen or

twenty inches. The chief stayed on board till the evening, when he left

us; but his brother, whose name was also Futtafaihe, and one or two or

more of his attendants, continued in the ship all night.

At day-break the next morning, I weighed with a fine breeze at east

north-east, and stood to the westward, with a view to return to

Annamooka, by the track we had already experienced. We were followed by

several sailing canoes, in one of which was the king. As soon as he got

on board the Resolution he inquired for his brother, and the others who

had remained with us all night. It now appeared that they had staid

without his leave; for he gave them, in a very few words, such a

reprimand as brought tears from their eyes; and yet they were men not

less than thirty years of age. He was, however, soon reconciled to their

making a longer stay; for, on quitting us, he left his brother and five

of his attendants on board. We had also the company of a chief just then

arrived from Tongataboo, whose name was Tooboueitoa. The moment he

arrived, he sent his canoe away, and declared that he and five more who

came with him would sleep on board; so that I had now my cabin filled

with visitors. This, indeed, was some inconvenience; but I bore with it

more willingly, as they brought plenty of provisions with them as

presents to me, for which they always had suitable returns.

About one o’clock in the afternoon, the easterly wind was succeeded by a

fresh breeze at south south-east. Our course, now being south

south-west, or more southerly, we were obliged to ply to windward, and

did but just fetch the north side of Footooha, by eight o’clock, where

we spent the night, making short boards.

The next morning, we plied up to Lofanga, where, according to the

information of our friends, there was anchorage. It was one o’clock, in

the afternoon, before we got soundings, under the lee or north-west

side, in forty fathoms’ water, near half a mile from the shore; but the

bank was steep, and the bottom rocky, and a chain of breakers lay to

leeward. All these circumstances being against us, I stretched away for

Kotoo, with the expectation of finding better anchoring ground under

that island. But so much time had been spent in plying up to Lofanga,

that it was dark before we reached the other; and, finding no place to

anchor in, the night was spent as the preceding one.

At day-break, on the 31st, I stood for the channel which is between

Kotoo, and the reef of rocks that lie to the westward of it; but on

drawing near, I found the wind too scant to lead us through. I,

therefore, bore up on the outside of the reef, and stretched to the

south west, till near noon, when perceiving that we made no progress to

windward, and being apprehensive of losing the islands, with so many of

the natives on board, I tacked and stood back, intending to wait till

some more favourable opportunity. We did but just fetch in with

Footooha, between which and Kotoo we spent the night, under reefed

topsails and foresail. The wind blew fresh, and by squalls, with rain;

and we were not without apprehensions of danger. I kept the deck till

midnight, when I left it to the master, with such directions as, I

thought, would keep the ships clear of the shoals and rocks that lay

round us. But, after making a trip to the north, and standing back again

to the south, our ship, by a small shift of the wind, fetched farther to

the windward than was expected. By this means she was very near running

full upon a low sandy isle, called Pootoo Pootooa, surrounded with

breakers. It happened very fortunately that the people had just been

ordered upon the deck, to put the ship about, and the most of them were

at their stations; so that the necessary movements were not only

executed with judgment, but also with alertness; and this alone saved us

from destruction. The Discovery being astern, was out of danger. Such

hazardous situations are the unavoidable companions of the man, who goes

upon a voyage of discovery.

This circumstance frightened our passengers so much, that they expressed

a strong desire to get ashore. Accordingly, as soon as day-light

returned, I hoisted out a boat, and ordered the officer who commanded

her, after landing them at Kotoo, to sound along the reef that spits off

from that island, for anchorage. For I was full as much tired as they

could be, with beating about amongst the surrounding isles and shoals,

and determined to get to an anchor somewhere or other if possible. While

the boat was absent, we attempted to turn the ships through the channel,

between the sandy isle and the reef of Kotoo, in expectation of finding

a moderate depth of water behind them to anchor in. But, meeting with a

tide or current against us, we were obliged to desist, and anchor in

fifty fathoms’ water, with the sandy isle bearing east by north, one

mile distant.

We lay here till the 4th. While in this station we were, several times,

visited by the king, by Tooboueitoa, and by people from the neighbouring

islands, who came off to trade with us, though the wind blew very fresh

most of the time. The master was now sent to sound the channels between

the islands that lie to the eastward; and I landed on Kotoo, to examine

it in the forenoon of the 2d.

This island is scarcely accessible by boats, on account of coral reefs

that surround it. It is not more than a mile and half, or two miles,

long; and not so broad. The north west end of it is low, like the

islands of Hapaee; but it rises suddenly in the middle, and terminates

in reddish clayey cliffs, at the south-east end, about thirty feet high.

The soil, in that quarter, is of the same sort as in the cliffs; but, in

the other parts, it is a loose, black mould. It produces the same fruits

and roots which we found at the other islands; is tolerably cultivated,

but thinly inhabited. While I was walking all over it, our people were

employed in cutting some grass for the cattle; and we planted some melon

seeds, with which the natives seemed much pleased, and inclosed them

with branches. On our return to the boat, we passed by two or three

ponds of dirty water, which was more or less brackish in each of them;

and saw one of their burying-places, which was much neater than those

that were met with at Hapaee.

On the 4th, at seven in the morning, we weighed; and, with a fresh gale

at east south-east, stood away for Annamooka, where we anchored, next

morning, nearly in the same station which we had so lately occupied.

I went on shore soon after, and found the inhabitants very busy in their

plantations, digging up yams to bring to market; and, in the course of

the day, about two hundred of them had assembled on the beach, and

traded with as much eagerness as during our late visit. Their stock

appeared to have been recruited much, though we had returned so soon;

but, instead of bread-fruit, which was the only article we could

purchase on our first arrival, nothing was to be seen now but yams, and

a few plantains. This shows the quick succession of the seasons, at

least of the different vegetables produced here, at the several times of

the year. It appeared also that they had been very busy, while we were

absent, in cultivating; for we now saw several large plantain fields, in

places which we had, so lately seen lying waste. The yams were now in

the greatest perfection; and we procured a good quantity, in exchanges

for pieces of iron.

These people in the absence of Toobou, whom we left behind us, at Kotoo,

with Poulaho and the other chiefs, seemed to be under little

subordination. For we could not perceive, this day, that one man assumed

more authority than another. Before I returned on board, I visited the

several places where I had sown melon seeds, and had the mortification

to find, that most of them were destroyed by a small ant; but some

pine-apple plants, which I had also left, were in a thriving state.

About noon next day, Feenou arrived from Vavaoo. He told us that several

canoes, laden with hogs, and other provisions, which had sailed with him

from that island, had been lost, owing to the late blowing weather; and

that every body on board them had perished. This melancholy tale did not

seem to affect any of his countrymen who heard it; and as to ourselves,

we were by this time too well acquainted with his character, to give

much credit to such a story. The truth, probably was, that he had not

been able to procure at Vavaoo the supplies which he expected; or, if he

got any there, that he had left them at Hapaee, which lay in his way

back, and where he could not but receive intelligence that Poulaho had

been with us; who therefore, he knew, would, as his superior, have all

the merit and reward of procuring them, though he had not any share of

the trouble. The invention of this loss at sea was, however, well

imagined; for there had lately been very blowing weather; in so much,

that the king and other chiefs, who had followed us from Hapaee to

Kotoo, had been left there, not caring to venture to sea when we did;

but desired I might wait for them at Annamooka, which was the reason of

my anchoring there, this second time, and of my not proceeding directly

to Tongataboo.

The following morning Poulaho, and the other chiefs who had been

wind-bound with him, arrived. I happened at this time to be ashore in

company with Feenou, who now seemed to be sensible of the impropriety of

his conduct, in assuming a character that did not belong to him. For he

not only acknowledged Poulaho to be king of Tongataboo, and the other

isles; but affected to insist much on it, which, no doubt, was with a

view to make amends for his former presumption. I left him to visit this

greater man, whom I found sitting with a few people before him. But,

every one hastening to pay court to him, the circle increased pretty

fast. I was very desirous of observing Feenou’s behaviour on this

occasion; and had the most convincing proof of his superiority; for he

placed himself amongst the rest that sat before Poulaho, as attendants

on his majesty. He seemed at first rather abashed; as some of us were

present who had been used to see him act a different part; but he soon

recovered himself. Some little conversation passed between these two

chiefs which none of us understood; nor were we satisfied with Omai’s

interpretation of it. We were, however, by this time sufficiently

undeceived as to Feenou’s rank. Both he and Poulaho went on board with

me to dinner; but only the latter sat at table. Feenou, having made his

obeisance in the usual way, saluting his sovereign’s foot with his head

and hands, retired out of the cabin.[184] The king had before told us,

that this would happen; and it now appeared that Feenou could not even

eat or drink in his royal presence.

At eight o’clock next morning, we weighed and steered for Tongataboo,

having a gentle breeze at north-east. About fourteen or fifteen sailing

vessels, belonging to the natives, set out without us; but every one of

them outrun the ships considerably. Feenou was to have taken his passage

in the Resolution, but preferred his own canoe; and put two men on

board, to conduct us to the best anchorage. We steered south by west by

compass.

At five in the afternoon we saw two small islands bearing west, about

four leagues distant. Our pilots called the one Hoonga Hapaee, and the

other Hoonga Tonga. They lie in the latitude of 20° 36ʹ; and ten or

eleven leagues from the west point of Annamooka, in the direction of

south, 46° west. According to the account of the islanders on board,

only five men reside upon Hoonga Hapaee; and Hoonga Tonga is

uninhabited; but both of them abound with sea-fowl.

We continued the same course till two o’clock next morning, when, seeing

some lights ahead, and not knowing whether they were on shore, or on

board the canoes, we hauled the wind, and made a short trip each way

till day-break. We then resumed our course to the south by west; and

presently after, saw several small islands before us, and Eooa and

Tongataboo beyond them. We had at this time twenty-five fathoms’ water,

over a bottom of broken coral and sand. The depth gradually decreased as

we drew near the isles above mentioned, which lie ranged along the

north-east side of Tongataboo. By the direction of our pilots we steered

for the middle of it, and for the widest space between the small isles

which we were to pass; having our boats ahead, employed in sounding. We

were insensibly drawn upon a large flat, upon which lay innumerable

coral rocks, of different depths, below the surface of the water.

Notwithstanding all our care and attention to keep the ship clear of

them, we could not prevent her from striking on one of these rocks. Nor

did the Discovery, though behind us, escape any better. Fortunately,

neither of the ships stuck fast, nor received any damage. We could not

get back without increasing the danger, as we had come in almost before

the wind. Nor could we cast anchor, but with the certainty of having our

cables instantly cut in two by the rocks. We had no other resource but

to proceed. To this indeed, we were encouraged, not only by being told,

but by seeing, that there was deeper water between us and the shore.

However, that we might be better informed, the moment we found a spot

where we could drop the anchor clear of rocks, we came-to; and sent the

masters with the boats, to sound.

Soon after we had anchored, which was about noon, several of the

inhabitants of Tongataboo came off in their canoes to the ships. These,

as well as our pilots, assured us, that we should find deep water

farther in, and a bottom free from rocks. They were not mistaken; for

about four o’clock, the boats made the signal for having found good

anchorage. Upon this we weighed, and stood in till dark, and then

anchored in nine fathoms, having a fine, clear, sandy bottom.

During the night we had some showers of rain; but toward the morning,

the wind shifted to the south, and south-east, and brought on fair

weather. At day-break we weighed, and working in to the shore, met with

no obstructions, but such as were visible, and easily avoided.

While we were plying up to the harbour, to which the natives directed

us, the king kept sailing round us in his canoe. There were at the same

time, a great many small canoes about the ships. Two of these, which

could not get out of the way of his royal vessel, he run quite over,

with as little concern, as if they had been bits of wood. Amongst many

others who came on board the Resolution, was Otago, who had been so

useful to me when I visited Tongataboo during my last voyage; and one

Toobou, who, at that time, had attached himself to Captain Furneaux.

Each of them brought a hog and some yams, as a testimony of his

friendship; and I was not wanting, on my part, in making a suitable

return.

At length, about two in the afternoon, we arrived at our intended

station. It was a very snug place, formed by the shore of Tongataboo on

the south-east, and two small islands on the east and north-east. Here

we anchored in ten fathoms’ water, over a bottom of oozy sand; distant

from the shore one-third of a mile.

CHAP. VII.

FRIENDLY RECEPTION AT TONGATABOO.—MANNER OF DISTRIBUTING A BAKED HOG AND

KAVA TO POULAHO’S ATTENDANTS.—THE OBSERVATORY, &C. ERECTED.—THE

VILLAGE WHERE THE CHIEFS RESIDE, AND THE ADJOINING COUNTRY,

DESCRIBED.—INTERVIEWS WITH MAREEWAGEE AND TOOBOU, AND THE KING’S SON.—

A GRAND HAIVA, OR ENTERTAINMENT OF SONGS AND DANCES, GIVEN BY

MAREEWAGEE.—EXHIBITION OF FIREWORKS.—MANNER OF WRESTLING AND BOXING.—

DISTRIBUTION OF THE CATTLE.—THEFTS COMMITTED BY THE NATIVES.—POULAHO,

AND THE OTHER CHIEFS, CONFINED ON THAT ACCOUNT.—POULAHO’S PRESENT, AND

HAIVA.

Soon after we had anchored, having first dined, I landed, accompanied by

Omai, and some of the officers. We found the king waiting for us upon

the beach. He immediately conducted us to a small neat house, situated a

little within the skirts of the woods, with a fine large area before it.

This house, he told me, was at my service, during our stay at the

island; and a better situation we could not wish for.

We had not been long in the house, before a pretty large circle of the

natives were assembled before us, and seated upon the area. A root of

the _kava_ plant being brought, and laid down before the king, he

ordered it to be split into pieces, and distributed to several people of

both sexes, who began the operation of chewing it; and a bowl of their

favourite liquor was soon prepared. In the mean time, a baked hog, and

two baskets of baked yams, were produced, and afterward divided into ten

portions. These portions were then given to certain people present; but

how many were to share in each, I could not tell. One of them, I

observed, was bestowed upon the king’s brother; and one remained

undisposed of, which, I judged, was for the king himself, as it was a

choice bit. The liquor was next served out; but Poulaho seemed to give

no directions about it. The first cup was brought to him, which he

ordered to be given to one who sat near him. The second was also brought

to him, and this he kept. The third was given to me; but their manner of

brewing having quenched my thirst, it became Omai’s property. The rest

of the liquor was distributed to different people, by direction of the

man who had the management of it. One of the cups being carried to the

king’s brother, he retired with this, and with his mess of victuals.

Some others also quitted the circle with their portions; and the reason

was, they could neither eat nor drink in the royal presence; but there

were others present, of a much inferior rank, of both sexes, who did

both. Soon after, most of them withdrew, carrying with them what they

had not ate of their share of the feast.

I observed, that not a fourth part of the company had tasted either the

victuals or the drink; those who partook of the former, I supposed to be

of the king’s household. The servants who distributed the baked meat,

and the _kava_, always delivered it out of their hand sitting, not only

to the king, but to every other person. It is worthy of remark, though

this was the first time of our landing, and a great many people were

present who had never seen us before, yet no one was troublesome; but

the greatest good order was preserved throughout the whole assembly.

Before I returned on board, I went in search of a watering place, and

was conducted to some ponds, or rather holes, containing fresh water, as

they were pleased to call it. The contents of one of these, indeed, were

tolerable; but it was at some distance inland, and the supply to be got

from it was very inconsiderable. Being informed that the little island

of Pangimodoo, near which the ships lay, could better furnish this

necessary article, I went over to it next morning, and was so fortunate

as to find there a small pool, that had rather fresher water than any we

had met with amongst these islands. The pool being very dirty, I ordered

it to be cleaned; and here it was that we watered the ships.

As I intended to make some stay at Tongataboo, we pitched a tent, in the

forenoon, just by the house which Poulaho had assigned for our use. The

horses, cattle, and sheep, were afterward landed, and a party of

marines, with their officer, stationed there as a guard. The observatory

was then set up, at a small distance from the other tent; and Mr. King

resided on shore, to attend the observations, and to superintend the

several operations necessary to be conducted there. For the sails were

carried thither, to be repaired; a party was employed in cutting wood

for fuel, and plank for the use of the ships; and the gunners of both

were ordered to remain upon the spot, to conduct the traffic with the

natives, who thronged from every part of the island, with hogs, yams,

cocoa-nuts, and other articles of their produce. In a short time, our

land post was like a fair, and the ships were so crowded with visitors,

that we had hardly room to stir upon the decks.

Feenou had taken up his residence in our neighbourhood; but he was no

longer the leading man. However, we still found him to be a person of

consequence, and we had daily proofs of his opulence and liberality, by

the continuance of his valuable presents. But the king was equally

attentive in this respect; for scarcely a day passed, without receiving

from him some considerable donation. We now heard, that there were other

great men of the island, whom we had not as yet seen. Otago and Toobou,

in particular mentioned a person named Mareewagee, who, they said, was

of the first consequence in the place, and held in great veneration;

nay, if Omai did not misunderstand them, superior even to Poulaho, to

whom he was related; but, being old, lived in retirement; and,

therefore, would not visit us. Some of the natives even hinted that he

was too great a man to confer that honour upon us. This account exciting

my curiosity, I this day mentioned to Poulaho, that I was very desirous

of waiting upon Mareewagee; and he readily agreed to accompany me to the

place of his residence, the next morning.

Accordingly we set out pretty early in the pinnace; and Captain Clerke

joined me in one of his own boats. We proceeded round, that is, to the

eastward of the little isles that form the harbour, and then turning to

the south, according to Poulaho’s directions, entered a spacious bay or

inlet, up which we rowed about a league, and landed amidst a

considerable number of people, who received us with a sort of

acclamation, not unlike our huzzaing. They immediately separated, to let

Poulaho pass, who took us into a small inclosure, and shifted the piece

of cloth he wore, for a new piece, neatly folded, that was carried by a

young man. An old woman assisted in dressing him, and put a mat over his

cloth, as we supposed, to prevent its being dirtied when he sat down. On

our now asking him where Mareewagee was, to our great surprize, he said,

he had gone from the place to the ship, just before we arrived. However,

he desired us to walk with him to a _malaee_, or house of public resort,

which stood about half a mile up the country; but when we came to a

large area before it, he sat down in the path, and desired us to walk up

to the house. We did so, and seated ourselves in front, while the crowd

that followed us filled up the rest of the space. After sitting a little

while, we repeated our inquiries, by means of Omai, whether we were to

see Mareewagee? But receiving no satisfactory information, and

suspecting that the old chief was purposely concealed from us, we went

back to our boats, much piqued at our disappointment; and when I got on

board, I found that no such person had been there. It afterward

appeared, that, in this affair, we had laboured under some gross

mistakes, and that our interpreter Omai had either been misinformed, or,

which is more likely, had misunderstood what was told him about the

great man, on whose account we had made this excursion.

The place we went to was a village most delightfully situated on the

bank of the inlet, where all or most of the principal persons of the

island reside; each having his house in the midst of a small plantation,

with lesser houses, and offices for servants. These plantations are

neatly fenced round; and, for the most part, have only one entrance.

This is by a door, fastened on the inside by a prop of wood; so that a

person has to knock, before he can get admittance. Public roads, and

narrow lanes, lie between each plantation; so that no one trespasseth

upon another. Great part of some of these inclosures is laid out in

grass-plots, and planted with such things as seem more for ornament than

use. But hardly any where without the _kava_ plant, from which they make

their favourite liquor. Every article of the vegetable produce of the

island, abounded in others of these plantations; but these, I observed,

are not the residence of people of the first rank. There are some large

houses near the public roads, with spacious smooth grass-plots before

them, and uninclosed. These, I was told, belonged to the king; and

probably, they are the places where their public assemblies are held. It

was to one of these houses, as I have already mentioned, that we were

conducted, soon after our landing at this place.

About noon, the next day, this Mareewagee, of whom we had heard so much,

actually came to the neighbourhood of our post on shore; and, with him,

a very considerable number of people of all ranks. I was informed, that

he had taken this trouble, on purpose to give me an opportunity of

waiting upon him; having probably, heard of the displeasure I had shown,

on my disappointment the day before. In the afternoon, a party of us,

accompanied by Feenou, landed to pay him a visit. We found a person

sitting under a large tree, near the shore, a little to the right of the

tent. A piece of cloth, at least forty yards long, was spread before

him, round which a great number of people of both sexes were seated. It

was natural to suppose, that this was the great man; but we were

undeceived by Feenou; who informed us, that another, who sat on a piece

of mat, a little way from this chief, to the right hand, was Mareewagee,

and he introduced us to him, who received us very kindly, and desired us

to sit down by him. The person who sat under the tree, fronting us was

called Toobou; and when I have occasion to speak of him afterward, I

shall call him old Toobou, to distinguish him from his namesake, Captain

Furneaux’s friend. Both he and Mareewagee had a venerable appearance.

The latter is a slender man, and from his appearance, seems to be

considerably above threescore years of age. The former is rather

corpulent, and almost blind with a disorder of his eyes; though not so

old.

Not expecting to meet with two chiefs, on this occasion, I had only

brought on shore a present for one. This I now found myself under a

necessity of dividing between them; but it happened to be pretty

considerable, and both of them seemed satisfied. After this, we

entertained them for about an hour with the performance of two French

horns, and a drum. But they seemed most pleased with the firing off a

pistol, which Captain Clerke had in his pocket. Before I took my leave,

the large piece of cloth was rolled up, and, with a few cocoa-nuts,

presented to me.

The next morning, old Toobou returned my visit on board the ship. He

also visited Captain Clerke; and if the present we made to him, the

evening before, was scanty, the deficiency was now made up. During this

time, Mareewagee visited our people ashore; and Mr. King showed to him

every thing we had there. He viewed the cattle with great admiration;

and the cross-cut saw fixed his attention for some time.

Toward noon Poulaho returned from the place where we had left him two

days before, and brought with him his son, a youth about twelve years of

age. I had his company at dinner; but the son, though present, was not

allowed to sit down with him. It was very convenient to have him for my

guest. For when he was present, which was generally the case while we

staid here, every other native was excluded from the table, and but few

of them would remain in the cabin. Whereas, if by chance it happened

that neither he nor Feenou were on board, the inferior chiefs would be

very importunate to be of our dining-party, or to be admitted into the

cabin at that time; and then we were so crowded, that we could not sit

down to a meal with any satisfaction. The king was very soon reconciled

to our manner of cookery. But still I believe he dined thus frequently

with me, more for the sake of what we gave him to drink, than for what

we set before him to eat. For he had taken a liking to our wine, could

empty his bottle as well as most men, and was as cheerful over it. He

now fixed his residence at the house, or _Malaee_, by our tent; and

there he entertained our people this evening with a dance. To the

surprise of every body, the unwieldy Poulaho endeavoured to vie with

others in that active amusement.

In the morning of the 15th, I received a message from old Toobou that he

wanted to see me ashore. Accordingly Omai and I went to wait upon him.

We found him, like an ancient patriarch, seated under the shade of a

tree, with a large piece of a cloth made in the island, spread out at

full length before him, and a number of respectably looking people

sitting round it. He desired us to place ourselves by him; and then he

told Omai that the cloth, together with a piece of red feathers, and

about a dozen cocoa-nuts, were his present to me. I thanked him for the

favour, and desired he would go on board with me, as I had nothing on

shore to give him in return.

Omai now left me, being sent for by Poulaho; and, soon after, Feenou

came and acquainted me that young Futtafaihe, Poulaho’s son, desired to

see me. I obeyed the summons, and found the prince and Omai sitting

under a large canopy of the finer sort of cloth, with a piece of the

coarser sort spread under them and before them, that was seventy-six

yards long, and seven and a half broad. On one side was a large old

boar, and on the other side a heap of cocoa-nuts. A number of people

were seated round the cloth; and, amongst them, I observed Mareewagee

and others of the first rank. I was desired to sit down by the prince,

and then Omai informed me that he had been instructed by the king to

tell me, that as he and I were friends, he hoped that his son might be

joined in this friendship; and that, as a token of my consent, I would

accept of his present. I very readily agreed to the proposal; and it

being now dinner-time, I invited them all on board.

Accordingly, the young prince, Mareewagee, old Toobou, three or four

inferior chiefs, and two respectable old ladies of the first rank,

accompanied me. Mareewagee was dressed in a new piece of cloth, on the

skirts of which were fixed six pretty large patches of red feathers.

This dress seemed to have been made on purpose for this visit; for, as

soon as he got on board, he put it off, and presented it to me; having,

I guess, heard that it would be acceptable on account of the feathers.

Every one of my visitors received from me such presents as I had reason

to believe they were highly satisfied with. When dinner came upon table,

not one of them would sit down or eat a bit of any thing that was served

up. On expressing my surprize at this, they were all _taboo_, as they

said; which word has a very comprehensive meaning; but, in general,

signifies that a thing is forbidden. Why they were laid under such

restraints at present was not explained. Dinner being over, and, having

gratified their curiosity by showing to them every part of the ship, I

then conducted them ashore.

As soon as the boat reached the beach, Feenou and some others instantly

stepped out. Young Futtafaihe following them, was called back by

Mareewagee, who now paid the heir-apparent the same obeisance, and in

the same manner that I had seen it paid to the king. And when old

Toobou, and one of the old ladies had shown him the same marks of

respect, he was suffered to land. This ceremony being over, the old

people stepped from my boat into a canoe that was waiting to carry them

to their place of abode.

I was not sorry to be present on this occasion, as I was thus furnished

with the most unequivocal proofs of the supreme dignity of Poulaho and

his son over the other principal chiefs. Indeed, by this time I had

acquired some certain information about the relative situations of the

several great men, whose names have been so often mentioned. I now knew

that Mareewagee and old Toobou were brothers. Both of them were men of

great property in the island, and seemed to be in high estimation with

the people; the former in particular had the very honourable appellation

given to him, by every body, of _Motooa Tonga_; that is to say, Father

of Tonga, or of his country. The nature of his relationship to the king

was also no longer a secret to us; for we now understood that he was his

father-in-law, Poulaho having married one of his daughters, by whom he

had this son; so that Mareewagee was the prince’s grandfather. Poulaho’s

appearance having satisfied us that we had been under a mistake in

considering Feenou as the sovereign of these islands, we had been at

first much puzzled about his real rank; but that was by this time

ascertained. Feenou was one of Mareewagee’s sons; and Tooboueitoa was

another.

On my landing, I found the king in the house adjoining to our tent,

along with our people who resided on shore. The moment I got to him, he

bestowed upon me a present of a large hog and a quantity of yams. About

the dusk of the evening a number of men came, and having sat down in a

round group, began to sing in concert with the music of bomboo drums,

which were placed in the centre.[185] There were three long ones and two

short. With these they struck the ground end-ways as before described.

There were two others which lay on the ground, side by side, and one of

them was split or shivered; on these a man kept beating with two small

sticks. They sung three songs while I staid; and I was told, that after

I left them the entertainment lasted till ten o’clock. They burnt the

leaves of the _wharra_ palm for a light; which is the only thing I ever

saw them make use of for this purpose.

While I was passing the day in attendance on these great men, Mr.

Anderson, with some others, made an excursion into the country, which

furnished him with the following remarks: “To the westward of the tent,

the country is totally uncultivated for near two miles, though quite

covered with trees and bushes in a natural state, growing with the

greatest vigour. Beyond this is a pretty large plain, on which are some

cocoa-trees, and a few small plantations that appear to have been lately

made; and seemingly on ground that has never been cultivated before.

Near the creek which runs to the westward of the tent the land is quite

flat, and partly overflowed by the sea every tide. When that retires,

the surface is seen to be composed of coral rock, with holes of

yellowish mud scattered up and down; and toward the edges, where it is a

little firmer, are innumerable little openings, from which issue as many

small crabs of two or three different sorts, which swarm upon the spot

as flies upon a carcase; but are so nimble that, on being approached,

they disappear in an instant, and baffle even the natives to catch any

of them.

“At this place is a work of art, which shows that these people are

capable of some design and perseverance when they mean to accomplish any

thing. This work begins, on one side, as a narrow causeway, which,

becoming gradually broader, rises with a gentle ascent to the height of

ten feet, where it is five paces broad, and the whole length

seventy-four paces. Joined to this is a sort of circus, whose diameter

is thirty paces, and not above a foot or two higher than the causeway

that joins it, with some trees planted in the middle. On the opposite

side, another causeway of the same sort descends; but this is not above

forty paces long, and is partly in ruin. The whole is built with large

coral stones, with earth on the surface, which is quite overgrown with

low trees and shrubs; and, from its decaying in several places, seems to

be of no modern date. Whatever may have been its use formerly, it seems

to be of none now; and all that we could learn of it from the natives

was, that it belonged to Poulaho, and is called _Etchee_.”

On the 16th, in the morning, after visiting the several works now

carrying on ashore, Mr. Gore and I took a walk into the country; in the

course of which nothing remarkable appeared, but our having

opportunities of seeing the whole process of making cloth, which is the

principal manufacture of these islands as well as of many others in this

ocean. In the narrative of my first voyage[186], a minute description is

given of this operation as performed at Otaheite; but the process here

differing in some particulars, it may be worth while to give the

following account of it.

The manufacturers, who are females, take the slender stalks or trunks of

the paper-mulberry, which they cultivate for that purpose, and which

seldom grows more than six or seven feet in height, and about four

fingers in thickness. From these they strip the bark, and scrape off the

outer rind with a muscle-shell. The bark is then rolled up to take off

the convexity which it had round the stalk, and macerated in water for

some time (they say a night.) After this it is laid across the trunk of

a small tree squared, and beaten with a square wooden instrument about a

foot long, full of coarse grooves on all sides; but sometimes with one

that is plain. According to the size of the bark, a piece is soon

produced; but the operation is often repeated by another hand, or it is

folded several times and beat longer, which seems rather intended to

close than to divide its texture. When this is sufficiently effected, it

is spread out to dry; the pieces being from four to six or more feet in

length, and half as broad. They are then given to another person who

joins the pieces, by smearing part of them over with the viscous juice

of a berry called _tooo_, which serves as a glue. Having been thus

lengthened, they are laid over a large piece of wood, with a kind of

stamp made of a fibrous substance pretty closely interwoven, placed

beneath. They then take a bit of cloth and dip it in a juice expressed

from the bark of a tree called _kokka_, which they rub briskly upon the

piece that is making. This at once leaves a dull brown colour, and a dry

gloss upon its surface; the stamp, at the same time, making a slight

impression, that answers no other purpose that I could see but to make

the several pieces that are glued together stick a little more firmly.

In this manner they proceed, joining and staining by degrees, till they

produce a piece of cloth of such length and breadth as they want;

generally leaving a border of a foot broad at the sides, and longer at

the ends, unstained. Throughout the whole, if any parts of the original

pieces are too thin, or have holes, which is often the case, they glue

spare bits upon them, till they become of an equal thickness. When they

want to produce a black colour, they mix the soot procured from an oily

nut called _dooedooe_, with the juice of the _kokka_, in different

quantities, according to the proposed depth of the tinge. They say that

the black sort of cloth, which is commonly most glazed, makes a cold

dress, but the other a warm one; and, to obtain strength in both, they

are always careful to join the small pieces lengthwise, which makes it

impossible to tear the cloth in any direction but one.

On our return from the country we met with Feenou, and took him and

another young chief on board to dinner. When our fare was set upon the

table, neither of them would eat a bit, saying that they were _taboo

avy_. But, after enquiring how the victuals had been dressed, having

found that no _avy_ (water) had been used in cooking a pig and some

yams, they both sat down and made a very hearty meal; and, on being

assured that there was no water in the wine, they drank of it also. From

this we conjectured that, on some account or another, they were, at this

time, forbidden to use water; or, which was more probable, they did not

like the water we made use of, it being taken up out of one of their

bathing places. This was not the only time of our meeting with people

that were _taboo avy_; but for what reason we never could tell with any

degree of certainty.

Next day, the 17th, was fixed upon by Mareewagee for giving a grand

_Haiva_ or entertainment, to which we were all invited. For this

purpose, a large space had been cleared before the temporary hut of this

chief, near our post, as an area where the performances were to be

exhibited. In the morning great multitudes of the natives came in from

the country, every one carrying a pole about six feet long upon his

shoulder; and at each end of every pole a yam was suspended. These yams

and poles were deposited on each side of the area, so as to form two

large heaps, decorated with different sorts of small fish, and piled up

to the greatest advantage. They were Mareewagee’s present to Captain

Clerke and me; and it was hard to say whether the wood for fuel or the

yams for food were of most value to us. As for the fish, they might

serve to please the sight, but were very offensive to the smell, part of

them having been kept two or three days to be presented to us on this

occasion.

Every thing being thus prepared, about eleven o’clock they began to

exhibit various dances, which they call _mai_. The music[187] consisted

at first of seventy men as a chorus, who sat down; and amidst them were

placed three instruments which we called drums, though very unlike them.

They are large cylindrical pieces of wood, or trunks of trees from three

to four feet long, some twice as thick as an ordinary sized man, and

some smaller, hollowed entirely out, but close at both ends, and open

only by a chink about three inches broad, running almost the whole

length of the drums; by which opening, the rest of the wood is certainly

hollowed, though the operation must be difficult. This instrument is

called _naffa_; and, with the chink turned toward them, they sit and

beat strongly upon it with two cylindrical pieces of hard wood about a

foot long, and as thick as the wrist; by which means they produce a

rude, though loud and powerful sound. They vary the strength and rate of

their beating at different parts of the dance; and also change the tones

by beating in the middle, or near the end of their drum.

The first dance consisted of four ranks, of twenty-four men each,

holding in their hands a little, thin, light, wooden instrument, above

two feet long, and in shape not unlike a small oblong paddle. With

these, which are called _pagge_, they made a great many different

motions; such as pointing them toward the ground on one side, at the

same time inclining their bodies that way, from which they were shifted

to the opposite side in the same manner; then passing them quickly from

one hand to the other, and twirling them about very dexterously; with a

variety of other manœuvres, all which were accompanied by corresponding

attitudes of the body. Their motions were at first slow, but quickened

as the drums beat faster; and they recited sentences, in a musical tone

the whole time, which were answered by the chorus; but at the end of a

short space they all joined, and finished with a shout.

After ceasing about two or three minutes, they began as before, and

continued, with short intervals, above a quarter of an hour; when the

rear rank dividing, shifted themselves very slowly round each end, and,

meeting in the front, formed the first rank; the whole number continuing

to recite the sentences as before. The other ranks did the same

successively, till that which at first was the front, became the rear;

and the evolution continued, in the same manner, till the last rank

regained its first situation. They then began a much quicker dance

(though slow at first), and sung for about ten minutes, when the whole

body divided into two parts, retreated a little, and then approached,

forming a sort of circular figure, which finished the dance; the drums

being removed, and the chorus going off the field at the same time.

The second dance had only two drums, with forty men for a chorus; and

the dancers, or rather actors, consisted of two ranks, the foremost

having seventeen, and the other fifteen persons. Feenou was at their

head, or in the middle of the front rank, which is the principal place

in these cases. They danced and recited sentences, with some very short

intervals, for about half an hour, sometimes quickly, sometimes more

slowly, but with such a degree of exactness, as if all the motions were

made by one man, which did them great credit. Near the close, the back

rank divided, came round, and took the place of the front, which again

resumed its situation, as in the first dance; and when they finished,

the drums and chorus, as before, went off.

Three drums (which at least, took two, and sometimes three men to carry

them) were now brought in; and seventy men sat down as a chorus to the

third dance. This consisted of two ranks, of sixteen persons each, with

young Toobou at their head, who was richly ornamented with a sort of

garment covered with red feathers. These danced, sung, and twirled the

_pagge_, as before; but in general, much quicker, and performed so well,

that they had the constant applauses of the spectators. A motion that

met with particular approbation, was one in which they held the face

aside, as if ashamed, and the _pagge_ before it. The back rank closed

before the front one, and that again resumed its place, as in the two

former dances; but then they began again, formed a triple row, divided,

retreated to each end of the area, and left the greatest part of the

ground clear. At that instant, two men entered very hastily, and

exercised the clubs which they use in battle. They did this, by first

twirling them in their hands, and making circular strokes before them

with great force and quickness; but so skilfully managed, that, though

standing quite close, they never interfered. They shifted their clubs

from hand to hand, with great dexterity; and after continuing a little

time, kneeled, and made different motions, tossing the clubs up in the

air, which they caught as they fell, and then went off as hastily as

they entered. Their heads were covered with pieces of white cloth, tied

at the crown (almost like a night-cap) with a wreath of foliage round

the forehead; but they had only very small pieces of white cloth tied

about their waists; probably, that they might be cool, and free from

every incumbrance or weight. A person with a spear, dressed like the

former, then came in, and in the same hasty manner; looking about

eagerly, as if in search of somebody to throw it at. He then ran hastily

to one side of the crowd in the front, and put himself in a threatening

attitude, as if he meant to strike with his spear at one of them,

bending the knee a little, and trembling, as it were with rage. He

continued in this manner only a few seconds, when he moved to the other

side, and having stood in the same posture there, for the same short

time, retreated from the ground, as fast as when he made his appearance.

The dancers, who had divided into two parties, kept repeating something

slowly all this while; and now advanced, and joined again, ending with

universal applause. It should seem, that this dance was considered as

one of their capital performances, if we might judge from some of the

principal people being engaged in it. For one of the drums was beat by

Futtafaihe, the brother of Poulaho, another by Feenou, and the third,

which did not belong to the chorus, by Mareewagee himself, at the

entrance of his hut.

The last dance had forty men, and two drums, as a chorus. It consisted

of sixty men, who had not danced before, disposed in three rows, having

twenty-four in front. But, before they began, we were entertained with a

pretty long preliminary harangue, in which the whole body made responses

to a single person who spoke. They recited sentences (perhaps verses)

alternately with the chorus, and made many motions with the _pagge_, in

a very brisk mode, which were all applauded with _mareeai!_ and

_fyfogge!_ words expressing two different degrees of praise. They

divided into two bodies, with their backs to each other; formed again,

shifted their ranks as in the other dances; divided and retreated,

making room for two champions, who exercised their clubs as before; and

after them two others: the dancers, all the time, reciting slowly in

turn with the chorus; after which they advanced, and finished.

These dances, if they can properly be called so, lasted from eleven till

near three o’clock; and though they were doubtless intended particularly

either in honour of us, or to show a specimen of their dexterity, vast

numbers of their own people attended as spectators. Their numbers could

not be computed exactly, on account of the inequality of the ground;

but, by reckoning the inner circle, and the number in depth, which was

between twenty and thirty in many places, we supposed that there must be

near four thousand. At the same time, there were round the trading place

at the tent, and straggling about, at least as many more; and some of us

computed, that, at this time, there were not less than ten or twelve

thousand people, in our neighbourhood; that is, within the compass of a

quarter of a mile; drawn together, for the most part, by mere curiosity.

It is with regret I mention, that we could not understand what was

spoken, while we were able to see what was acted, in these amusements.

This, doubtless, would have afforded us much information, as to the

genius and customs of these people, It was observable, that, though the

spectators always approved of the various motions, when well made, a

great share of the pleasure they received seemed to arise from the

sentimental part, or what the performers delivered in their speeches.

However, the mere acting part, independently of the sentences repeated,

was well worth our notice, both with respect to the extensive plan on

which it was executed, and to the various motions, as well as the exact

unity, with which they were performed. But neither pencil nor pen can

describe the numerous actions and motions, the singularity of which was

not greater, than was the ease and gracefulness with which they were

performed.

At night we were entertained with the _bomai_, or night dances, on a

space before Feenou’s temporary habitation. They lasted about three

hours; in which time we had about twelve of them performed, much after

the same manner as those at Hapaee. But in two that were performed by

women, a number of men came and formed a circle within theirs. And, in

another, consisting of twenty-four men, there were a number of motions

with the hands, that we had not seen before, and were highly applauded.

The music was also once changed, in the course of the night; and in one

of the dances, Feenou appeared at the head of fifty men who had

performed at Hapaee, and he was well dressed with linen, a large piece

of gauze, and some little pictures hung round his neck. But it was

evident, after the diversions were closed, that we had put these poor

people, or rather that they had put themselves, to much inconvenience.

For being drawn together on this uninhabited part of their island,

numbers of them were obliged to lie down and sleep under the bushes, by

the side of a tree, or of a canoe; nay, many either lay down in the open

air, which they are not fond of, or walked about all the night.

The whole of this entertainment was conducted with far better order,

than could have been expected in so large an assembly. Amongst such a

multitude, there must be a number of ill-disposed people; and we hourly

experienced it. All our care and attention did not prevent their

plundering us, in every quarter; and that, in the most daring and

insolent manner. There was hardly any thing that they did not attempt to

steal; and yet, as the crowd was always so great, I would not allow the

sentries to fire, lest the innocent should suffer for the guilty. They

once, at noon day, ventured to aim at taking an anchor from off the

Discovery’s bows; and they would certainly have succeeded, if the flook

had not hooked one of the chain-plates in lowering down the ship’s side,

from which they could not disengage it by hand; and tackles were things

they were unacquainted with. The only act of violence they were guilty

of, was the breaking the shoulder-bone of one of our goats, so that she

died soon after. This loss fell upon themselves, as she was one of those

that I intended to leave upon the island; but of this, the person who

did it, was ignorant.

Early in the morning of the 18th, an incident happened, that strongly

marked one of their customs. A man got out of a canoe into the quarter

gallery of the Resolution, and stole from thence a pewter bason. He was

discovered, pursued, and brought along side the ship. On this occasion,

three old women, who were in the canoe, made loud lamentations over the

prisoner, beating their breasts and faces in a most violent manner, with

the inside of their fists; and all this was done without shedding a

tear. This mode of expressing grief is what occasions the mark which

almost all this people bear on the face, over the cheek bones. The

repeated blows which they inflict upon this part, abrade the skin, and

make even the blood flow out in a considerable quantity; and when the

wounds are recent, they look as if a hollow circle had been burnt in. On

many occasions, they actually cut this part of the face with an

instrument; in the same manner as the people of Otaheite cut their

heads.

This day, I bestowed on Mareewagee some presents, in return for those we

had received from him the day before; and as the entertainments which he

had then exhibited for our amusement, called upon us to make some

exhibition in our way, I ordered the party of marines to go through

their exercise, on the spot where his dances had been performed; and, in

the evening, played off some fire-works at the same place. Poulaho, with

all the principal chiefs, and a great number of people, of all

denominations, were present. The platoon firing, which was executed

tolerably well, seemed to give them pleasure; but they were lost in

astonishment when they beheld our water rockets. They paid but little

attention to the fife and drum, or French horns, that played during the

intervals. The king sat behind every body, because no one is allowed to

sit behind him; and that his view might not be obstructed, nobody sat

immediately before him; but a lane, as it were, was made by the people

from him, quite down to the space allotted for the fire-works.

In expectation of this evening show, the circle of natives about our

tent being pretty large, they engaged, the greatest part of the

afternoon, in boxing and wrestling; the first of which exercises they

call _fangatooa_ and the second _foohoo_. When any of them chooses to

wrestle, he gets up from one side of the ring, and crosses the ground in

a sort of measured pace, clapping smartly on the elbow-joint of one arm,

which is bent, and produces a hollow sound; that is reckoned the

challenge. If no person comes out from the opposite side to engage him,

he returns, in the same manner, and sits down; but sometimes stands

clapping in the midst of the ground, to provoke someone to come out. If

an opponent appear, they come together with marks of the greatest

good-nature, generally smiling, and taking time to adjust the piece of

cloth which is fastened round the waist. They then lay hold of each

other by this girdle, with a hand on each side; and he who succeeds in

drawing his antagonist to him, immediately tries to lift him upon his

breast, and throw him upon his back; and if he be able to turn round

with him two or three times, in that position, before he throws him, his

dexterity never fails of procuring plaudits from the spectators. If they

be more equally matched, they close soon, and endeavour to throw each

other by entwining their legs, or lifting each other from the ground; in

which struggles they show a prodigious exertion of strength, every

muscle, as it were, being ready to burst with straining. When one is

thrown, he immediately quits the field, but the victor sits down for a

few seconds, then gets up, and goes to the side he came from, who

proclaim the victory aloud, in a sentence delivered slowly, and in a

musical cadence. After sitting a short space, he rises again and

challenges; when sometimes several antagonists make their appearance;

but he has the privilege of choosing which of them he pleases to wrestle

with; and has likewise, the preference of challenging again, if he

should throw his adversary, until he himself be vanquished; and then the

opposite side sing the song of victory in favour of their champion. It

also often happens, that five or six rise from each side, and challenge

together; in which case, it is common to see three or four couple

engaged on the field at once. But it is astonishing to see what temper

they preserve in this exercise; for we observed no instances of their

leaving the spot, with the least displeasure in their countenances. When

they find, that they are so equally matched as not to be likely to throw

each other, they leave off by mutual consent. And if the fall of one is

not fair, or if it does not appear very clearly who has had the

advantage, both sides sing the victory, and then they engage again. But

no person, who has been vanquished, can engage with his conqueror a

second time.

The boxers advance side-ways, changing the side at every pace, with one

arm stretched fully out before, the other behind; and holding a piece of

cord in one hand, which they wrap firmly about it, when they find an

antagonist, or else have done so before they enter. This, I imagine,

they do, to prevent a dislocation of the hand or fingers. Their blows

are directed chiefly to the head; but sometimes to the sides; and are

dealt out with great activity. They shift sides, and box equally well

with both hands. But one of their favourite and most dexterous blows,

is, to turn round on their heel, just as they have struck their

antagonist, and to give him another very smart one with the other hand

backward.

The boxing matches seldom last long; and the parties either leave off

together, or one acknowledges his being beat. But they never sing the

song of victory in these cases, unless one strikes his adversary to the

ground; which shows, that, of the two, wrestling is their most approved

diversion. Not only boys engage, in both the exercises, but frequently

little girls box very obstinately for a short time. In all which cases,

it doth not appear, that they ever consider it as the smallest disgrace

to be vanquished; and the person overcome sits down, with as much

indifference, as if he had never entered the lists. Some of our people

ventured to contend with them in both exercises, but were always

worsted; except in a few instances, where it appeared, that the fear

they were in of offending us, contributed more to the victory, than the

superiority of the person they engaged.

The cattle, which we had brought, and which were all on shore, however

carefully guarded, I was sensible, run no small risk, when I considered

the thievish disposition of many of the natives, and their dexterity in

appropriating to themselves by stealth, what they saw no prospect of

obtaining by fair means. For this reason, I thought it prudent to

declare my intention of leaving behind me some of our animals; and even

to make a distribution of them previously to my departure.

With this view, in the evening of the 19th, I assembled all the chiefs

before our house, and my intended presents to them were marked out. To

Poulaho, the king, I gave a young English bull and cow; to Mareewagee, a

Cape ram, and two ewes; and to Feenou, a horse and a mare. As my design,

to make such a distribution, had been made known the day before, most of

the people in the neighbourhood were then present, I instructed Omai to

tell them, that there were no such animals within many months sail of

their island; that we had brought them, for their use, from that immense

distance, at a vast trouble and expence; that, therefore, they must be

careful not to kill any of them till they had multiplied to a numerous

race; and, lastly, that they and their children ought to remember, that

they had received them from the men of _Britane_. He also explained to

them their several uses, and what else was necessary for them to know,

or rather as far as he knew; for Omai was not very well versed in such

things himself. As I intended that the above presents should remain with

the other cattle, till we were ready to sail, I desired each of the

chiefs to send a man or two to look after their respective animals,

along with my people, in order that they might be better acquainted with

them, and with the manner of treating them. The king and Feenou did so;

but neither Mareewagee, nor any other person for him, took the least

notice of the sheep afterward; nor did old Toobou attend at this

meeting, though he was invited, and was in the neighbourhood. I had

meant to give him the goats, _viz._ a ram and two ewes; which as he was

so indifferent about them, I added to the king’s share.

It soon appeared, that some were dissatisfied with this allotment of our

animals; for early next morning, one of our kids, and two turkey-cocks,

were missing. I could not be so simple as to suppose, that this was

merely an accidental loss; and I was determined to have them again. The

first step I took was to seize on three canoes that happened to be

alongside the ships. I then went ashore, and having found the king, his

brother, Feenou, and some other chiefs, in the house that we occupied, I

immediately put a guard over them, and gave them to understand, that

they must remain under restraint, till not only the kid and the turkeys,

but the other things, that had been stolen from us, at different times,

were restored. They concealed, as well as they could, their feelings, on

finding themselves prisoners; and, having assured me, that every thing

should be restored, as I desired, sat down to drink their _kava_,

seemingly much at their ease. It was not long before an axe, and an iron

wedge, were brought to me. In the meantime, some armed natives began to

gather behind the house; but, on a part of our guard marching against

them, they dispersed; and I advised the chiefs to give orders, that no

more should appear. Such orders were accordingly given by them, and they

were obeyed. On asking them to go aboard with me to dinner, they readily

consented. But some having afterward objected to the king’s going, he

instantly rose up, and declared he would be the first man. Accordingly

we came on board. I kept them there till near four o’clock, when I

conducted them ashore; and soon after, the kid, and one of the

turkey-cocks, were brought back. The other they said, should be restored

the next morning. I believed this would happen, and released both them

and the canoes.

After the chiefs had left us, I walked out with Omai, to observe how the

people about us fared; for this was the time of their meals. I found

that, in general, they were at short commons. Nor is this to be wondered

at, since most of the yams, and other provisions which they brought with

them, were sold to us; and they never thought of returning to their own

habitations, while they could find any sort of subsistence in our

neighbourhood. Our station was upon an uncultivated point of land; so

that there were none of the islanders, who, properly, resided within

half a mile of us. But even at this distance, the multitude of strangers

being so great, one might have expected that every house would have been

much crowded. It was quite otherwise. The families residing there were

as much left to themselves as if there had not been a supernumerary

visitor near them. All the strangers lived in little temporary sheds, or

under trees and bushes; and the cocoa-trees were stripped of their

branches to erect habitations for the chiefs.

In this walk we met with about half a dozen women in one place at

supper. Two of the company, I observed, being fed by the others, on our

asking the reason, they said _taboo mattee_. On farther inquiry we found

that one of them had, two months before, washed the dead corpse of a

chief; and that, on this account, she was not to handle any food for

five months. The other had performed the same office to the corpse of

another person of inferior rank, and was now under the same restriction,

but not for so long a time. At another place hard by, we saw another

woman fed; and we learnt that she had assisted in washing the corpse of

the above mentioned chief.

Early the next morning the king came on board to invite me to an

entertainment, which he proposed to give the same day. He had already

been under the barber’s hands; his head being all besmeared with red

pigment, in order to redden his hair, which was naturally of a dark

brown colour. After breakfast I attended him to the shore; and we found

his people very busy in two places, in the front of our area, fixing, in

an upright and square position, thus, [Illustration], four very long

posts, near two feet from each other. The space between the posts was

afterward filled up with yams; and as they went on filling it, they

fastened pieces of sticks across, from post to post, at the distance of

about every four feet, to prevent the posts from separating by the

weight of the inclosed yams, and also to get up by. When the yams had

reached the top of the first posts, they fastened others to them, and so

continued till each pile was the height of thirty feet or upward. On the

top of one they placed two baked hogs; and on the top of the other a

living one; and another they tied by the legs half way up. It was matter

of curiosity to observe with what facility and dispatch these two piles

were raised. Had our seamen been ordered to execute such a work, they

would have sworn that it could not be performed without carpenters; and

the carpenters would have called to their aid a dozen different sorts of

tools, and have expended, at least, a hundred weight of nails; and,

after all, it would have employed them as many days as it did these

people hours. But seamen, like most other amphibious animals, are always

the most helpless on land. After they had completed these two piles,

they made several other heaps of yams and bread-fruit on each side of

the area; to which were added a turtle and a large quantity of excellent

fish. All this, with a piece of cloth, a mat, and some red feathers, was

the king’s present to me; and he seemed to pique himself on exceeding,

as he really did, Feenou’s liberality, which I experienced at Hapaee.