FROM LEAVING NEW ZEALAND TO OUR ARRIVAL AT OTAHEITE, OR THE SOCIETY
ISLANDS.
CHAP. I.
PROSECUTION OF THE VOYAGE.—BEHAVIOUR OF THE TWO NEW ZEALANDERS ON
BOARD.—UNFAVOURABLE WINDS.—AN ISLAND CALLED MANGEEA DISCOVERED.—THE
COAST OF IT EXAMINED.—TRANSACTIONS WITH THE NATIVES.—AN ACCOUNT OF
THEIR PERSONS, DRESS, AND CANOE.—DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLAND.—A SPECIMEN
OF THE LANGUAGE.—DISPOSITION OF THE INHABITANTS.
On the 25th, at ten o’clock in the morning, a light breeze springing up
at N. W. by W., we weighed, stood out of the Sound, and made sail
through the strait, with the Discovery in company. We had hardly got the
length of Cape Tierawhitte, when the wind took us aback at S. E. It
continued in this quarter till two o’clock the next morning, when we had
a few hours’ calm. After which we had a breeze at N.; but here it fixed
not long, before it veered to the E., and after that to the S. At
length, on the 27th at eight o’clock in the morning, we took our
departure from Cape Palliser, which, at this time, bore W., seven or
eight leagues distant. We had a fine gale, and I steered E. by N.
We had no sooner lost sight of the land than our two New Zealand
adventurers, the sea-sickness they now experienced giving a turn to
their reflections, repented heartily of the step they had taken. All the
soothing encouragement we could think of, availed but little. They wept
both in public and in private; and made their lamentations in a kind of
song, which, as far as we could comprehend the meaning of the words, was
expressive of their praises of their country and people, from which they
were to be separated for ever. Thus they continued for many days, till
their sea-sickness wore off, and the tumult of their minds began to
subside. Then these fits of lamentation became less and less frequent,
and at length entirely ceased. Their native country and their friends
were, by degrees, forgot, and they appeared to be as firmly attached to
us, as if they had been born amongst us.
The wind had not remained many hours at S., before it veered to S. E.
and E.; and, with this, we stood to the N., till the 28th at noon. Being
then in the latitude of 41° 17ʹ, and in longitude of 177° 17ʹ E., we
tacked and stood to the S. E., with a gentle breeze at E. N. E. It
afterward freshened, and came about to N. E.; in which quarter it
continued two days, and sometimes blew a fresh gale with squalls,
accompanied with showers of rain.
On the 2d of March at noon, being in the latitude of 42° 35ʹ 30ʺ,
longitude 180° 8ʹ E. the wind shifted to north-west; afterward to
south-west; and between this point and north it continued to blow,
sometimes a strong gale with hard squalls, and at other times very
moderate. With this wind we steered north-east by east and east, under
all the sail we could carry, till the 11th at noon, at which time we
were in the latitude of 39° 29ʹ, longitude 196° 4ʹ E.
The wind now veered to north-east and south-east, and I stood to the
north, and to the north-east, as the wind would admit, till one o’clock
in the morning on the 16th, when having a more favourable gale from the
north, I tacked and stood to the east, the latitude being 33° 40ʹ, and
the longitude 198° 50ʹ E. We had light airs and calms by turns, till
noon the next day, when the wind began to freshen at east south-east,
and I again stood to the north-east. But as the wind often veered to
east and east north-east, we frequently made no better than a northerly
course; nay sometimes to the westward of north. But the hopes of the
wind coming more southerly, or of meeting with it from the westward, a
little without the tropic, as I had experienced in my former visits to
this ocean, encouraged me to continue this course. Indeed it was
necessary that I should run all risks, as my proceeding to the north
this year, in prosecution of the principal object of the voyage,
depended entirely on my making a quick passage to Otaheite, or the
Society Islands.
The wind continued invariably fixed at east south-east, or seldom
shifting above two points on either side. It also blew very faint, so
that it was the 27th before we crossed the tropic, and then we were only
in the longitude of 201° 23ʹ east, which was nine degrees to the
westward of our intended port. In all this run we saw nothing, except
now and then a tropic bird, that could induce us to think we had sailed
near any land. In the latitude of 34° 20ʹ, longitude 199°, we passed the
trunk of a large tree, which was covered with barnacles, a sign that it
had been long at sea.
On the 29th, at ten in the morning, as we were standing to the
north-east, the Discovery made the signal of seeing land. We saw it from
the mast-head almost the same moment, bearing north-east by east by
compass. We soon discovered it to be an island of no great extent, and
stood for it till sunset, when it bore north north-east, distant about
two or three leagues.
The night was spent in standing off and on, and at day-break the next
morning, I bore up for the lee or west side of the island, as neither
anchorage nor landing appeared to be practicable on the south side, on
account of a great surf[166], which broke every where with violence
against the shore, or against the reef that surrounded it.
We presently found that the island was inhabited, and saw several
people, on a point of the land we had passed, wading to the reef, where,
as they found the ship leaving them quickly, they remained. But others,
who soon appeared in different parts, followed her course, and sometimes
several of them collected into small bodies, who made a shouting noise
altogether, nearly after the manner of the inhabitants of New Zealand.
Between seven and eight o’clock, we were at the west north-west part of
the island, and being near the shore, we could perceive with our
glasses, that several of the natives, who appeared upon a sandy beach,
were all armed with long spears and clubs, which they brandished in the
air with signs of threatening, or, as some on board interpreted their
attitudes, with invitations to land. Most of them appeared naked, except
having a sort of girdle, which being brought up between the thighs,
covered that part of the body. But some of them had pieces of cloth of
different colours, white, striped, or chequered, which they wore as a
garment thrown about their shoulders. And almost all of them had a white
wrapper about their heads, not much unlike a turban; or, in some
instances, like a high conical cap. We could also perceive that they
were of a tawny colour, and in general of a middling stature, but
robust, and inclining to corpulence.
At this time, a small canoe was launched in a great hurry from the
further end of the beach, and a man getting into it, put off, as with a
view to reach the ship. On perceiving this, I brought to, that we might
receive the visit; but the man’s resolution failing, he soon returned
toward the beach, where, after some time, another man joined him in the
canoe; and then they both paddled towards us. They stopt short, however,
as if afraid to approach, until Omai, who addressed them in the Otaheite
language, in some measure quieted their apprehensions. They then came
near enough to take some beads and nails, which were tied to a piece of
wood, and thrown into the canoe. They seemed afraid to touch these
things, and put the piece of wood aside without untying them. This,
however, might arise from superstition; for Omai told us, that when they
saw us offering them presents, they asked something for their _Eatooa_,
or god. He also, perhaps improperly, put the question to them, whether
they ever ate human flesh? which they answered in the negative, with a
mixture of indignation and abhorrence. One of them, whose name was
Mourooa, being asked how he came by a scar on his forehead, told us that
it was the consequence of a wound he had got in fighting with the people
of an island which lies to the north-eastward, who sometimes came to
invade them. They afterward took hold of a rope. Still, however, they
would not venture on board; but told Omai, who understood them pretty
well, that their countrymen on shore had given them this caution, at the
same time directing them to inquire, from whence our ship came, and to
learn the name of the captain. On our part, we inquired the name of the
island, which they called _Mangya_ or _Mangeea_; and sometimes added to
it _Nooe, nai, naiwa_. The name of their chief, they said, was
Orooaeeka.
Mourooa was lusty and well made, but not very tall. His features were
agreeable, and his disposition seemingly no less so; for he made several
droll gesticulations, which indicated both good nature and a share of
humour. He also made others which seemed of a serious kind, and repeated
some words with a devout air, before he ventured to lay hold of the rope
at the ship’s stern; which was probably to recommend himself to the
protection of some divinity. His colour was nearly of the same cast with
that common to the most southern Europeans. The other man was not so
handsome. Both of them had strong, straight hair, of a jet colour, tied
together on the crown of the head with a bit of cloth. They wore such
girdles as we had perceived about those on shore, and we found they were
a substance made from the _Morus papyrifera_, in the same manner as at
the other islands of this ocean. It was glazed like the sort used by the
natives of the Friendly Islands; but the cloth on their heads was white,
like that which is found at Otaheite. They had on a kind of sandals,
made of a grassy substance interwoven, which we also observed were worn
by those who stood upon the beach; and, as we supposed, intended to
defend their feet against the rough coral rock. Their beards were long;
and the inside of their arms, from the shoulder to the elbow, and some
other parts, were punctured or _tatooed_, after the manner of the
inhabitants of almost all the other islands in the South Sea. The lobe
of their ears was pierced, or rather slit, and to such a length, that
one of them stuck there a knife and some beads, which he had received
from us; and the same person had two polished pearl shells, and a bunch
of human hair, loosely twisted, hanging about his neck, which was the
only ornament we observed. The canoe they came in (which was the only
one we saw), was not above ten feet long, and very narrow; but both
strong and neatly made. The forepart had a flat board fastened over it,
and projecting out, to prevent the sea getting in on plunging, like the
small _Evaas_ at Otaheite; but it had an upright stern, about five feet
high, like some in New Zealand; and the upper end of this stern-post was
forked. The lower part of the canoe was of white wood, but the upper was
black, and their paddles, made of wood of the same colour, not above
three feet long, broad at one end, and blunted. They paddled either end
of the canoe forward indifferently; and only turned about their faces to
paddle the contrary way.
We now stood off and on; and as soon as the ships were in a proper
station, about ten o’clock I ordered two boats, one of them from the
Discovery, to sound the coast, and to endeavour to find a landing-place.
With this view, I went in one of them myself, taking with me such
articles to give the natives, as I thought might serve to gain their
good-will. I had no sooner put off from the ship, than the canoe with
the two men, which had left us not long before, paddled towards my boat;
and, having come alongside, Mourooa stept into her without being asked,
and without a moment’s hesitation.
Omai, who was with me, was ordered to inquire of him, where we could
land; and he directed us to two different places. But I saw, with
regret, that the attempt could not be made at either place, unless at
the risk of having our boats filled with water, or even staved to
pieces. Nor were we more fortunate in our search for anchorage; for we
could find no bottom, till within a cable’s length of the breakers.
There we met with from forty to twenty fathoms depth, over sharp coral
rocks; so that anchoring would have been attended with much more danger
than landing.
While we were thus employed in reconnoitring the shore, great numbers of
the natives thronged down upon the reef, all armed as above mentioned.
Mourooa, who was now in my boat, probably thinking that this warlike
appearance hindered us from landing, ordered them to retire back. As
many of them complied, I judged he must be a person of some consequence
among them. Indeed if we understood him right, he was the king’s
brother. So great was the curiosity of several of them, that they took
to the water, and swimming off to the boats, came on board them without
reserve. Nay, we found it difficult to keep them out; and still more
difficult to prevent their carrying off every thing they could lay their
hands upon. At length, when they perceived that we were returning to the
ships, they all left us, except our original visitor Mourooa. He, though
not without evident signs of fear, kept his place in my boat, and
accompanied me on board the ship.
The cattle and other new objects that presented themselves to him there,
did not strike him with so much surprise as one might have expected.
Perhaps his mind was too much taken up about his own safety to allow him
to attend to other things. It is certain that he seemed very uneasy; and
the ship, on our getting on board, happening to be standing off shore,
this circumstance made him the more so. I could get but little new
information from him; and, therefore, after he had made a short stay, I
ordered a boat to carry him in toward the land. As soon as he got out of
the cabin, he happened to stumble over one of the goats: his curiosity
now overcoming his fear, he stopped, looked at it, and asked Omai what
bird this was? and not receiving an immediate answer from him, he
repeated the question to some of the people upon deck. The boat having
conveyed him pretty near to the surf, he leaped into the sea and swam
ashore. He had no sooner landed, than the multitude of his countrymen
gathered round him, as if with an eager curiosity to learn from him what
he had seen; and in this situation they remained when we lost sight of
them. As soon as the boat returned, we hoisted her in, and made sail
from the land to the northward.
Thus were we obliged to leave unvisited, this fine island, which seemed
capable of supplying all our wants. It lies in the latitude of 21° 57ʹ
S. and in the longitude of 201° 53ʹ E. Such parts of the coast as fell
under our observation, are guarded by a reef of coral rock, on the
outside of which the sea is of an unfathomable depth. It is full five
leagues in circuit, and of a moderate and pretty equal height; though in
clear weather it may be certainly seen at the distance of ten leagues;
for we had not lost sight of it at night when we had run above seven
leagues, and the weather was cloudy. In the middle it rises into little
hills, from whence there is a gentle descent to the shore, which at the
south-west part is steep, though not above ten or twelve feet high; and
has several excavations made by the beating of the waves against a
brownish sand-stone of which it is composed. The descent here is covered
with trees of a deep green colour, very thick, but not high, which seem
all of one sort, unless nearest the shore, where there are great numbers
of that species of _dracæna_ found in the woods of New Zealand, which
are also scattered in some other places. On the north-west part, the
shore, as we mentioned above, ends in a sandy beach; beyond which the
land is broken down into small chasms or gullies, and has a broad border
of trees resembling tall willows; which, from its regularity, might be
supposed a work of art, did not its extent forbid us to think so.
Farther up on the ascent, the trees were of the deep green mentioned
before. Some of us supposed these to be the _rima_, intermixed with low
cocoa palms, and a few of some other sorts. They seemed not so thick as
on the south-west part, and higher; which appearance might be owing to
our nearer approach to the shore. On the little hills were some trees of
a taller sort, thinly scattered; but the other parts of them were either
bare and of a reddish colour, or covered with something like fern. Upon
the whole, the island has a pretty aspect, and might be made a beautiful
spot by cultivation.
As the inhabitants seemed to be both numerous and well fed, such
articles of provision as the island produces must be in great plenty. It
might, however, be a matter of curiosity to know, particularly, their
method of subsistence; for our friend Mourooa told us, that they had no
animals, as hogs and dogs, both which, however, they had heard of; but
acknowledged they had plantains, bread-fruit, and taro. The only birds
we saw, were some white egg-birds, terns, and noddies; and one white
heron, on the shore.
The language of the inhabitants of Mangeea is a dialect of that spoken
at Otaheite; though their pronunciation, as that of the New Zealanders,
be more guttural. Some of their words, of which two or three are perhaps
peculiar to this island, are here subjoined, as taken, by Mr. Anderson,
from Omai, who had learnt them in his conversations with Mourooa. The
Otaheite words, where there is any resemblance, are placed opposite.
English. _Mangeea._ _Otaheite._
_A cocoa-nut_, Eakkaree, Aree.
_Bread-fruit_, Kooroo, Ooroo.
_A canoe_, Ewakka, Evaa.
_Friend_, Naoo, mou.
_A man_, Taata, _or_ Tangata, Taata.
_Cloth_, or Taia, taia aoutee, Eoute.
_cloth-plant_,
_Good_, Mata, Myty.
_A club_, Pooroohee.
_Yes_, Aee, Ai.
_No_, Aoure, Aoure.
_A spear_, Heyhey.
_A fight_, or Etamagee, Tamaee.
_battle_,
_A woman_, Waheine, Waheine.
_A daughter_, Maheine, Maheine.
_The sun_, Heetaia matooa.
_I_, Ou, Wou.
_The shore_, Euta, Euta.
_What is that?_ Ehataieee? Owytaieeoa?
_There_, Oo.
_A chief_, Ereekee, Eree.
_Great_ or Manna (_an adjunct
_powerful_, to the last_.)
_To kiss_, Ooma.
The natives of Mangeea seem to resemble those of Otaheite and the
Marquesas in the beauty of their persons, more than any other nation I
have seen in these seas; having a smooth skin, and not being muscular.
Their general disposition also corresponds, as far as we had
opportunities of judging, with that which distinguishes the first
mentioned people. For they are not only cheerful, but, as Mourooa showed
us, are acquainted with all the lascivious gesticulations which the
Otaheiteans practise in their dances. It may also be supposed, that
their method of living is similar. For, though the nature of the country
prevented our seeing many of their habitations, we observed one house
near the beach, which much resembled, in its mode of construction, those
of Otaheite. It was pleasantly situated in a grove of trees, and
appeared to be about thirty feet long, and seven or eight high, with an
open end, which represented an ellipse divided transversely. Before it,
was spread something white on a few bushes; which we conjectured to be a
fishing-net, and, to appearance, of a very delicate texture.
They salute strangers much after the manner of the New Zealanders, by
joining noses; adding, however, the additional ceremony of taking the
hand of the person to whom they are paying civilities, and rubbing it
with a degree of force upon their nose and mouth.[167]
CHAP. II.
THE DISCOVERY OF AN ISLAND CALLED WATEEOO.—ITS COASTS EXAMINED.—VISITS
FROM THE NATIVES ON BOARD THE SHIPS.—MESS. GORE, BURNEY, AND ANDERSON,
WITH OMAI, SENT ON SHORE.—MR. ANDERSON’S NARRATIVE OF THEIR
RECEPTION.—OMAI’S EXPEDIENT TO PREVENT THEIR BEING DETAINED.—HIS
MEETING WITH SOME OF HIS COUNTRYMEN, AND THEIR DISTRESSFUL VOYAGE.—
FARTHER ACCOUNT OF WATEEOO, AND OF ITS INHABITANTS.
After leaving Mangeea, on the afternoon of the 30th, we continued our
course northward all that night, and till noon on the 31st; when we
again saw land, in the direction of N. E. by N., distant eight or ten
leagues.
Next morning, at eight o’clock, we had got abreast of its north end,
within four leagues of it, but to leeward; and could now pronounce it to
be an island, nearly of the same appearance and extent with that we had
so lately left. At the same time, another island, but much smaller, was
seen right ahead. We could have soon reached this; but the largest one
had the preference, as most likely to furnish a supply of food for the
cattle, of which we began to be in great want.
With this view, I determined to work up to it; but as there was but
little wind, and that little was unfavourable, we were still two leagues
to leeward at eight o’clock the following morning. Soon after, I sent
two armed boats from the Resolution, and one from the Discovery, under
the command of Lieutenant Gore, to look for anchoring-ground, and a
landing-place. In the mean time, we plied up under the island with the
ships.
Just as the boats were putting off, we observed several single canoes
coming from the shore. They went first to the Discovery, she being the
nearest ship. It was not long after, when three of these canoes came
alongside of the Resolution, each conducted by one man. They are long
and narrow, and supported by outriggers. The stern is elevated about
three or four feet, something like a ship’s stern-post. The head is flat
above, but prow-like below, and turns down at the extremity, like the
end of a violin. Some knives, beads, and other trifles were conveyed to
our visitors; and they gave us a few cocoa-nuts, upon our asking for
them. But they did not part with them by way of exchange for what they
had received from us. For they seemed to have no idea of bartering; nor
did they appear to estimate any of our presents at a high rate.
With a little persuasion, one of them made his canoe fast to the ship,
and came on board; and the other two, encouraged by his example, soon
followed him. Their whole behaviour marked that they were quite at their
ease, and felt no sort of apprehension of our detaining, or using them
ill.
After their departure, another canoe arrived, conducted by a man who
brought a bunch of plantains as a present to me; asking for me by name,
having learnt it from Omai, who was sent before us in the boat with Mr.
Gore. In return for this civility, I gave him an axe, and a piece of red
cloth; and he paddled back to the shore well satisfied. I afterward
understood from Omai, that this present had been sent from the king, or
principal chief of the island.
Not long after, a double canoe, in which were twelve men, came toward
us. As they drew near the ship, they recited some words in concert, by
way of chorus[168], one of their number first standing up, and giving
the word before each repetition. When they had finished their solemn
chant, they came alongside, and asked for the chief. As soon as I showed
myself, a pig and a few cocoa-nuts were conveyed up into the ship; and
the principal person in the canoe made me an additional present of a
piece of matting, as soon as he and his companions got on board.
Our visitors were conducted into the cabin, and to other parts of the
ship. Some objects seemed to strike them with a degree of surprise; but
nothing fixed their attention for a moment. They were afraid to come
near the cows and horses; nor did they form the least conception of
their nature. But the sheep and goats did not surpass the limits of
their ideas; for they gave us to understand that they knew them to be
birds. It will appear rather incredible, that human ignorance could ever
make so strange a mistake; there not being the most distant similitude
between a sheep or goat, and any winged animal. But these people seemed
to know nothing of the existence of any other land-animals, besides
hogs, dogs, and birds. Our sheep and goats, they could see, were very
different creatures from the two first, and therefore they inferred,
that they must belong to the latter class, in which they knew there is a
considerable variety of species. I made a present to my new friend of
what I thought might be most acceptable to him; but, on his going away,
he seemed rather disappointed than pleased. I afterward understood that
he was very desirous of obtaining a dog, of which animal this island
could not boast, though its inhabitants knew that the race existed in
other islands of their ocean. Captain Clerke had received the like
present, with the same view, from another man, who met with from him the
like disappointment.
The people in these canoes were in general of a middling size, and not
unlike those of Mangeea; though several were of a blacker cast than any
we saw there. Their hair was tied on the crown of the head, or flowing
loose about the shoulders; and though in some it was of a frizzling
disposition, yet, for the most part, that, as well as the straight sort,
was long. Their features were various, and some of the young men rather
handsome. Like those of Mangeea, they had girdles of glazed cloth, or
fine matting, the ends of which, being brought betwixt their thighs,
covered the adjoining parts. Ornaments, composed of a sort of broad
grass, stained with red, and strung with berries of the night-shade,
were worn about their necks. Their ears were bored, but not slit; and
they were punctured upon the legs, from the knee to the heel, which made
them appear as if they wore a kind of boots. They also resembled the
inhabitants of Mangeea in the length of their beards, and like them,
wore a sort of sandals upon their feet. Their behaviour was frank and
cheerful, with a great deal of good-nature.
At three o’clock in the afternoon, Mr. Gore returned with the boat, and
informed me, that he had examined all the west side of the island,
without finding a place where a boat could land, or the ships could
anchor, the shore being every where bounded by a steep coral rock,
against which the sea broke in a dreadful surf. But as the natives
seemed very friendly, and to express a degree of disappointment when
they saw that our people failed in their attempts to land, Mr. Gore was
of opinion, that by means of Omai, who could best explain our request,
they might be prevailed upon to bring off to the boats, beyond the surf,
such articles as we most wanted; in particular, the stems of plantain
trees, which make good food for the cattle. Having little or no wind,
the delay of a day or two was not of any moment; and therefore I
determined to try the experiment, and got every thing ready against the
next morning.
Soon after day-break, we observed some canoes coming off to the ships,
and one of them directed its course to the Resolution. In it was a hog,
with some plantains and cocoa nuts, for which the people, who brought
them demanded a dog from us, and refused every other thing that we
offered in exchange. One of our gentlemen on board, happened to have a
dog and a bitch, which were great nuisances in the ship, and might have
been disposed of on this occasion for a purpose of real utility, by
propagating a race of so useful an animal in this island. But their
owner had no such views, in making them the companions of his voyage.
However, to gratify these people, Omai parted with a favourite dog he
had brought from England; and with this acquisition they departed highly
satisfied.
About ten o’clock I dispatched Mr. Gore with three boats, two from the
Resolution and one from the Discovery, to try the experiment he had
proposed. And, as I could confide in his diligence and ability, I left
it entirely to himself, to act as from circumstances he should judge to
be most proper. Two of the natives who had been on board accompanied
him; and Omai went with him in his boat as an interpreter. The ships
being a full league from the island when the boats put off, and having
but little wind, it was noon before we could work up to it. We then saw
our three boats riding at their grapplings, just without the surf, and a
prodigious number of the natives on the shore abreast of them. By this
we concluded that Mr. Gore and others of our people had landed, and our
impatience to know the event may be easily conceived. In order to
observe their motions, and to be ready to give them such assistance as
they might want, and our respective situations would admit of, I kept as
near the shore as was prudent. I was sensible, however, that the reef
was as effectual a barrier between us and our friends who had landed,
and put them as much beyond the reach of our protection, as if half the
circumference of the globe had intervened. But the islanders, it was
probable, did not know this so well as we did. Some of them now and then
came off to the ships in their canoes with a few cocoa-nuts, which they
exchanged for whatever was offered to them, without seeming to give the
preference to any particular article.
These occasional visits served to lessen my solicitude about our people
who had landed. Though we could get no information from our visitors;
yet their venturing on board seemed to imply, at least, that their
countrymen on shore had not made an improper use of the confidence put
in them. At length, a little before sun-set, we had the satisfaction of
seeing the boats put off. When they got on board, I found that Mr. Gore
himself, Omai, Mr. Anderson, and Mr. Burney, were the only persons who
had landed. The transactions of the day were now fully reported to me by
Mr. Gore; but Mr. Anderson’s account of them being very particular, and
including some remarks on the island and its inhabitants, I shall give
it a place here nearly in his own words.
“We rowed toward a small sandy beach, upon which, and upon the adjacent
rocks, a great number of the natives had assembled, and came to an
anchor within a hundred yards of the reef, which extends about as far,
or a little farther from the shore. Several of the natives swam off,
bringing cocoa-nuts; and Omai, with their countrymen, whom we had with
us in the boats, made them sensible of our wish to land. But their
attention was taken up for a little time by the dog which had been
carried from the ship, and was just brought on shore, round whom they
flocked with great eagerness. Soon after, two canoes came off; and, to
create a greater confidence in the islanders, we determined to go
unarmed, and run the hazard of being treated well or ill.
“Mr. Burney, the first lieutenant of the Discovery, and I went in one
canoe a little time before the other; and our conductors, watching
attentively the motions of the surf, landed us safely upon the reef. An
islander took hold of each of us, obviously with an intention to support
us in walking over the rugged rocks to the beach, where several of the
others met us, holding the green boughs of a species of _Mimosa_ in
their hands, and saluted us by applying their noses to ours.
“We were conducted from the beach by our guides, amidst a great crowd of
people, who flocked with very eager curiosity to look at us, and would
have prevented our proceeding, had not some men, who seemed to have
authority, dealt blows with little distinction amongst them to keep them
off. We were then led up an avenue of cocoa-palms, and soon came to a
number of men arranged in two rows, armed with clubs, which they held on
their shoulders much in the manner we rest a musket. After walking a
little way amongst these, we found a person who seemed a chief, sitting
on the ground cross-legged, cooling himself with a sort of triangular
fan, made from a leaf of the cocoa-palm, with a polished handle of black
wood fixed to one corner. In his ears were large bunches of beautiful
red feathers which pointed forward. But he had no other mark or ornament
to distinguish him from the rest of the people, though they all obeyed
him with the greatest alacrity. He either naturally had, or at this time
put on a serious but not severe countenance; and we were desired to
salute him as he sat by some people who seemed of consequence.
“We proceeded still amongst the men armed with clubs, and came to a
second chief, who sat fanning himself, and ornamented as the first. He
was remarkable for his size and uncommon corpulence, though to
appearance not above thirty years of age. In the same manner we were
conducted to a third chief, who seemed older than the two former, and,
though not so fat as the second, was of a large size. He also was
sitting, and adorned with red feathers; and after saluting him as we had
done the others, he desired us both to sit down, which we were very
willing to do, being pretty well fatigued with walking up, and with the
excessive heat we felt amongst the vast crowd that surrounded us.
“In a few minutes the people were ordered to separate; and we saw, at
the distance of thirty yards, about twenty young women, ornamented as
the chiefs with red feathers, engaged in a dance, which they performed
to a slow and serious air sung by them all. We got up and went forward
to see them; and though we must have been strange objects to them, they
continued their dance without paying the least attention to us. They
seemed to be directed by a man who served as a prompter, and mentioned
each motion they were to make. But they never changed the spot as we do
in dancing; and though their feet were not at rest, this exercise
consisted more in moving the fingers very nimbly, at the same time
holding their hands in a prone position near the face, and now and then
also clapping them together.[169] Their motions and song were performed
in such exact concert, that it should seem they had been taught with
great care; and probably they were selected for this ceremony, as few of
those whom we saw in the crowd equalled them in beauty. In general they
were rather stout than slender, with black hair flowing in ringlets down
the neck, and of an olive complexion. Their features were rather fuller
than what we allow to perfect beauties, and much alike; but their eyes
were of a deep black, and each countenance expressed a degree of
complacency and modesty peculiar to the sex in every part of the world,
but perhaps more conspicuous here, where Nature presented us with her
productions in the fullest perfection, unbiassed in sentiment by custom,
or unrestrained in manner by art. Their shape and limbs were elegantly
formed; for, as their dress consisted only of a piece of glazed cloth
fastened about the waist, and scarcely reaching so low as the knees, in
many we had an opportunity of observing every part. This dance was not
finished when we heard a noise as if some horses had been gallopping
toward us; and, on looking aside, we saw the people armed with clubs,
who had been desired, as we supposed, to entertain us with the sight of
their manner of fighting. This they now did, one party pursuing another
who fled.
“As we supposed the ceremony of being introduced to the chiefs was at an
end, we began to look about for Mr. Gore and Omai; and though the crowd
would hardly suffer us to move, we at length found them coming up, as
much incommoded by the number of people as we had been, and introduced
in the same manner to the three chiefs, whose names were Otteroo, Taroa,
and Fatouweera. Each of these expected a present; and Mr. Gore gave them
such things as he had brought with him from the ship for that purpose.
After this, making use of Omai as his interpreter, he informed the
chiefs with what intention we had come on shore; but was given to
understand, that he must wait till the next day, and then he should have
what was wanted.
“They now seemed to take some pains to separate us from each other; and
every one of us had his circle to surround and gaze at him. For my own
part, I was at one time above an hour apart from my friends; and when I
told the chief, with whom I sat, that I wanted to speak to Omai, he
peremptorily refused my request. At the same time I found the people
began to steal several trifling things which I had in my pocket; and
when I took the liberty of complaining to the chief of this treatment,
he justified it. From these circumstances, I now entertained
apprehensions, that they might have formed the design of detaining us
amongst them. They did not, indeed, seem to be of a disposition so
savage, as to make us anxious for the safety of our persons; but it was,
nevertheless, vexing to think we had hazarded being detained by their
curiosity. In this situation I asked for something to eat; and they
readily brought me some cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, and a sort of sour
pudding, which was presented by a woman. And on my complaining much of
the heat, occasioned by the crowd, the chief himself condescended to fan
me, and gave me a small piece of cloth, which he had round his waist.
“Mr. Burney happened to come to the place where I was, I mentioned my
suspicions to him, and, to put it to the test, whether they were
well-founded, we attempted to get to the beach. But we were stopped when
about half way, by some men, who told us that we must go back to the
place which we had left. On coming up, we found Omai entertaining the
same apprehensions. But he had, as he fancied, an additional reason for
being afraid, for he had observed that they had dug a hole in the ground
for an oven, which they were now heating; and he could assign no other
reason for this, than that they meant to roast and eat us, as is
practised by the inhabitants of New Zealand. Nay, he went so far as to
ask them the question; at which they were greatly surprised, asking in
return, whether that was a custom with us? Mr. Burney and I were rather
angry that they should be thus suspected by him, there having as yet
been no appearances in their conduct toward us, of their being capable
of such brutality.
“In this manner we were detained the greatest part of the day, being
sometimes together, and sometimes separated; but always in a crowd; who,
not satisfied with gazing at us, frequently desired us to uncover parts
of our skin, the sight of which commonly produced a general murmur of
admiration. At the same time, they did not omit these opportunities of
rifling our pockets; and at last, one of them snatched a small bayonet
from Mr. Gore, which hung in its sheath by his side. This was
represented to the chief, who pretended to send some person in search of
it. But in all probability, he countenanced the theft; for soon after,
Omai had a dagger stolen from his side in the same manner, though he did
not miss it immediately.
“Whether they observed any signs of uneasiness in us, or that they
voluntarily repeated their emblems of friendship when we expressed a
desire to go, I cannot tell; but, at this time, they brought some green
boughs, and sticking their ends in the ground, desired we might hold
them as we sat. Upon our urging again the business we came upon, they
gave us to understand that we must stay and eat with them; and a pig
which we saw soon after lying near the oven, which they had prepared and
heated, removed Omai’s apprehensions of being put into it himself, and
made us think it might be intended for our repast. The chief also
promised to send some people to procure food for the cattle, but it was
not till pretty late in the afternoon, that we saw them return with a
few plantain-trees, which they carried to our boats.
“In the mean time Mr. Burney and I attempted again to go to the beach,
but when we arrived, found ourselves watched by people, who, to
appearance, had been placed there for this purpose. For when I tried to
wade in upon the reef, one of them took hold of my clothes and dragged
me back. I picked up some small pieces of coral, which they required me
throw down again; and on my refusal, they made no scruple to take them
forcibly from me. I had gathered some small plants, but these also I
could not be permitted to retain; and they took a fan from Mr. Burney,
which he had received as a present on coming ashore. Omai said we had
done wrong in taking up any thing, for it was not the custom here to
permit freedoms of that kind to strangers, till they had in some measure
naturalized them to the country, by entertaining them with festivity for
two or three days.
“Finding that the only method of procuring better treatment was to yield
implicit obedience to their will, we went up again to the place we had
left, and they now promised, that we should have a canoe to carry us off
to our boats, after we had eaten of a repast which had been prepared for
us.
“Accordingly the second chief, to whom we had been introduced in the
morning, having seated himself upon a low broad stool of blackish hard
wood, tolerably polished, and directing the multitude to make a pretty
large ring, made us sit down by him. A considerable number of cocoa-nuts
were now brought; and shortly after, a long green basket with a
sufficient quantity of baked plantains to have served a dozen persons. A
piece of the young hog that had been dressed, was then set before each
of us, of which we were desired to eat. Our appetites, however, had
failed from the fatigue of the day; and though we did eat a little to
please them, it was without satisfaction to ourselves.
“It being now near sun-set, we told them it was time to go on board.
This they allowed; and sent down to the beach the remainder of the
victuals that had been dressed, to be carried with us to the ships. But
before we set out, Omai was treated with a drink he had been used to in
his own country; which, we observed, was made here as at other islands
in the South Sea, by chewing the root of a sort of pepper. We found a
canoe ready to put us off to our boats; which the natives did with the
same caution as when we landed. But even here their thievish disposition
did not leave them; for a person of some consequence among them, who
came with us, took an opportunity, just as they were pushing the canoe
into the surf, to snatch a bag out of her which I had, with the greatest
difficulty, preserved all the day, there being in it a small
pocket-pistol which I was unwilling to part with. Perceiving him, I
called out, expressing as much displeasure as I could; on which he
thought proper to return, and swim with the bag to the canoe, but denied
he had stolen it, though detected in the very act. They put us on board
our boats, with the cocoa-nuts, plantains, and other provisions which
they had brought; and we rowed to the ships very well pleased that we
had at last got out of the hands of our troublesome masters.
“We regretted much, that our restrained situation gave us so little
opportunity of making observations on the country. For, during the whole
day, we were seldom a hundred yards from the place where we were
introduced to the chiefs on landing; and, consequently, were confined to
the surrounding objects. The first thing that presented itself worthy of
our notice was the number of people, which must have been at least two
thousand. For those who welcomed us on the shore bore no proportion to
the multitude we found amongst the trees, on proceeding a little way up.
“We could also observe that, except a few, those we had hitherto seen on
board were of the lower class; for a great number of those we now met
with, had a superior dignity in their air, and were of a much whiter
cast. In general they had the hair tied on the crown of the head, long,
black, and of a most luxuriant growth. Many of the young men were
perfect models in shape, of a complexion as delicate as that of the
women, and, to appearance, of a disposition as amiable. Others who were
more advanced in years, were corpulent; and all had a remarkable
smoothness of the skin. Their general dress was a piece of cloth or mat
wrapped about the waist, and covering the parts which modesty conceals.
But some had pieces of mats most curiously varied with black and white,
made into a sort of jacket without sleeves; and others wore conical caps
of cocoa-nut core, neatly interwoven with small beads made of a shelly
substance. Their ears were pierced; and in them they hung bits of the
membraneous part of some plant, or stuck there an odoriferous flower,
which seemed to be a species of _gardenia_. Some who were of a superior
class, and also the chiefs, had two little balls with a common base,
made from the bone of some animal which was hung round the neck, with a
great many folds of small cord. And after the ceremony of introduction
to the chiefs was over, they then appeared without their red feathers;
which are certainly considered here as a particular mark of distinction,
for none but themselves and the young women who danced assumed them.
“Some of the men were punctured all over the sides and back in an
uncommon manner; and some of the women had the same ornament on their
legs. But this method was confined to those who seemed to be of a
superior rank; and the men, in that case, were also generally
distinguished by their size and corpulence, unless very young. The women
of an advanced age had their hair cropped short; and many were cut in
oblique lines all over the fore part of the body; and some of the
wounds, which formed rhomboidal figures, had been so lately inflicted,
that the coagulated blood still remained in them.
“The wife of one of the chiefs appeared with her child laid in a piece
of red cloth which had been presented to her husband, and seemed to
carry it with great tenderness, suckling it much after the manner of our
women. Another chief introduced his daughter, who was young and
beautiful, but appeared with all the timidity natural to the sex, though
she gazed on us with a kind of anxious concern, that seemed to struggle
with her fear, and to express her astonishment at so unusual a sight.
Others advanced with more firmness, and, indeed, were less reserved than
we expected, but behaved with a becoming modesty. We did not observe any
personal deformities amongst either sex, except in a few who had scars
of broad superficial ulcers remaining on the face and other parts. In
proportion to the number of people assembled, there appeared not many
old men or women; which may easily be accounted for, by supposing that
such as were in an advanced period of life might neither have the
inclination nor the ability to come from the more distant parts of the
island. On the other hand, the children were numerous; and both these
and the men climbed the trees to look at us when we were hid by the
surrounding crowd.
“About a third part of the men were armed with clubs and spears; and,
probably, these were only the persons who had come from a distance, as
many of them had small baskets, mats, and other things, fastened to the
ends of their weapons. The clubs were generally about six feet long,
made of a hard black wood, lance-shaped at the end, but much broader,
with the edge nicely scolloped, and the whole neatly polished. Others of
them were narrower at the point, much shorter and plain; and some were
even so small as to be used with one hand. The spears were made of the
same wood, simply pointed; and, in general, above twelve feet long;
though some were so short, that they seemed intended to be thrown as
darts.
“The place where we were all the day was under the shade of various
trees, in which they preserved their canoes from the sun. About eight or
ten of them were here, all double ones; that is, two single ones
fastened together (as is usual throughout the whole extent of the
Pacific Ocean), by rafters lashed across. They were about twenty feet
long, about four feet deep, and the sides rounded with a plank raised
upon them, which was fastened strongly by means of withes. Two of these
canoes were most curiously stained or painted all over with black, in
numberless small figures, as squares, triangles, &c. and excelled by far
any thing of that kind I had ever seen at any other island in this
ocean. Our friends here, indeed, seemed to have exerted more skill in
doing this than in puncturing their own bodies. The paddles were about
four feet long, nearly elliptical, but broader at the upper end than the
middle. Near the same place was a hut or shed about thirty feet long,
and nine or ten high, in which perhaps these boats are built, but at
this time it was empty.
“The greatest number of the trees around us were _cocoa-palms_; some
sorts of _hibiscus_; a species of _euphorbia_; and, toward the sea,
abundance of the same kind of trees we had seen at Mangeea Nooe
Nainaiwa; and which seemed to surround the shores of this island in the
same manner. They are tall and slender, not much unlike a cypress; but
with bunches of long, round, articulated leaves. The natives call them
_etoa_. On the ground we saw some grass; a species of _convolvulus_; and
a good deal of _treacle-mustard_. There are also, doubtless, other
fruit-trees and useful plants which we did not see. For, besides several
sorts of _plantains_, they brought, at different times, roots which they
call _taro_ (the _coccos_ of other countries); a bread-fruit; and a
basket of roasted nuts, of a kidney-shape, in taste like a chesnut, but
coarser.
“What the soil of the island may be, further inland, we could not tell.
But, toward the sea, it is nothing more than a bank of coral, ten or
twelve feet high, steep, and rugged; except where there are small sandy
beaches, at some clefts where the ascent is gradual. The coral, though
it has, probably, been exposed to the weather for many centuries, has
undergone no farther change than becoming black on the surface; which,
from its irregularity, is not much unlike large masses of a burnt
substance. But, on breaking some pieces off, we found that, at the depth
of two or three inches, it was just as fresh as the pieces that had been
lately thrown upon the beach by the waves. The reef or rock, that lines
the shore entirely, runs to different breadths into the sea, where it
ends, all at once, and becomes like a high, steep wall. It is nearly
even with the surface of the water, and of a brown or brick colour; but
the texture is rather porous, yet sufficient to withstand the washing of
the surf, which continually breaks upon it.”
Though the landing of our gentlemen proved the means of enriching my
journal with the foregoing particulars, the principal object I had in
view was, in a great measure, unattained; for the day was spent without
getting any one thing from the island worth mentioning. The natives,
however, were gratified with a sight they never before had; and,
probably, will never have again. And mere curiosity seems to have been
their chief motive for keeping the gentlemen under such restraint, and
for using every art to prolong their continuance amongst them.
It has been mentioned, that Omai was sent upon this expedition; and,
perhaps, his being Mr. Gore’s interpreter was not the only service he
performed this day. He was asked by the natives a great many questions
concerning us, our ships, our country, and the sort of arms we used;
and, according to the account he gave me, his answers were not a little
upon the marvellous. As, for instance, he told them, that our country
had ships as large as their island; on board which were instruments of
war (describing our guns), of such dimensions, that several people might
sit within them; and that one of them was sufficient to crush the whole
island at one shot. This led them to inquire of him, what sort of guns
we actually had in our two ships. He said, that though they were but
small, in comparison with those he had just described, yet, with such as
they were, we could, with the greatest ease, and at the distance the
ships were from the shore, destroy the island, and kill every soul in
it. They persevered in their inquiries, to know by what means this could
be done; and Omai explained the matter as well as he could. He happened
luckily to have a few cartridges in his pocket. These he produced; the
balls, and the gunpowder which was to set them in motion, were submitted
to inspection; and to supply the defects of his description, an appeal
was made to the senses of the spectators. It has been mentioned above,
that one of the chiefs had ordered the multitude to form themselves into
a circle. This furnished Omai with a convenient stage for his
exhibition. In the centre of this amphitheatre, the inconsiderable
quantity of gunpowder, collected from his cartridges, was properly
disposed upon the ground, and, by means of a bit of burning wood from
the oven, where dinner was dressing, set on fire. The sudden blast, and
loud report, the mingled flame and smoke, that instantly succeeded, now
filled the whole assembly with astonishment; they no longer doubted the
tremendous power of our weapons, and gave full credit to all that Omai
had said.
If it had not been for the terrible ideas they conceived of the guns of
our ships, from this specimen of their mode of operation, it was thought
that they would have detained the gentlemen all night. For Omai assured
them, that if he and his companions did not return on board the same
day, they might expect that I would fire upon the island. And as we
stood in nearer the land in the evening than we had done any time
before, of which position of the ships they were observed to take great
notice, they, probably, thought we were meditating this formidable
attack; and therefore suffered their guests to depart; under the
expectation, however, of seeing them again on shore next morning. But I
was too sensible of the risk they had already run, to think of a
repetition of the experiment.
This day, it seems, was destined to give Omai more occasions than one of
being brought forward to bear a principal part in its transactions. The
island, though never before visited by Europeans, actually happened to
have other strangers residing in it; and it was entirely owing to Omai’s
being one of Mr. Gore’s attendants, that this curious circumstance came
to our knowledge.
Scarcely had he been landed upon the beach, when he found amongst the
crowd there assembled, three of his own countrymen, natives of the
Society Islands. At the distance of about two hundred leagues from those
islands, an immense unknown ocean intervening, with such wretched
sea-boats as their inhabitants are known to make use of, and fit only
for a passage where sight of land is scarcely ever lost, such a meeting,
at such a place, so accidentally visited by us, may well be looked upon
as one of those unexpected situations, with which the writers of feigned
adventures love to surprise their readers, and which, when they really
happen in common life, deserve to be recorded for their singularity.
It may easily be guessed with what mutual surprise and satisfaction Omai
and his countrymen engaged in conversation. Their story, as related by
them, is an affecting one. About twenty persons in number, of both
sexes, had embarked on board a canoe at Otaheite, to cross over to the
neighbouring island Ulietea. A violent contrary wind arising, they could
neither reach the latter, nor get back to the former. Their intended
passage being a very short one, their stock of provisions was scanty and
soon exhausted; the hardships they suffered, while driven along by the
storm, they knew not whither, are not to be conceived; they passed many
days without having any thing to eat or drink; their numbers gradually
diminished, worn out by famine and fatigue; four men only survived, when
the canoe overset, and then the perdition of this small remnant seemed
inevitable. However, they kept hanging by the side of their vessel
during some of the last days, till Providence brought them in sight of
the people of this island, who immediately sent out canoes, took them
off their wreck, and brought them ashore. Of the four who were thus
saved, one was since dead; the other three, who lived to have this
opportunity of giving an account of their almost miraculous
transplantation, spoke highly of the kind treatment they here met with;
and so well satisfied were they with their situation, that they refused
the offer made to them by our gentlemen, at Omai’s request, of giving
them a passage on board our ships, to restore them to their native
islands. The similarity of manners and language had more than
naturalized them to this spot; and the fresh connexions which they had
here formed, and which it would have been painful to have broken off,
after such a length of time, sufficiently account for their declining to
revisit the places of their birth. They had arrived upon this island at
least twelve years ago. For I learnt from Mr. Anderson, that he found
they knew nothing of Captain Wallis’s visit to Otaheite in 1765; nor of
several other memorable occurrences, such as the conquest of Ulietea by
those of Bolabola, which had preceded the arrival of the Europeans. To
Mr. Anderson I am also indebted for their names, Orououte, Otirreroa,
and Tavee; the first, born at Matavai in Otaheite; the second, at
Ulietea; and the third, at Huaheine.
The landing of our gentlemen on this island, though they failed in the
object of it, cannot but be considered as a very fortunate circumstance.
It has proved, as we have seen, the means of bringing to our knowledge a
matter of fact, not only very curious, but very instructive. The
application of the above narrative is obvious. It will serve to explain,
better than a thousand conjectures of speculative reasoners, how the
detached parts of the earth, and, in particular, how the islands of the
South Sea, may have been first peopled; especially those that lie remote
from any inhabited continent, or from each other.[170]
This island is called Wateeoo by the natives. It lies in the latitude of
20° 1ʹ S. and in the longitude 201° 45ʹ E. and is about six leagues in
circumference. It is a beautiful spot, with a surface composed of hills
and plains, and covered with verdure of many hues. Our gentlemen found
the soil where they passed the day to be light and sandy; but farther up
the country a different sort perhaps prevails, as we saw from the ship,
by the help of our glasses, a reddish cast upon the rising grounds.
There the inhabitants have their houses, for we could perceive two or
three which were long and spacious. Its produce, with the addition of
hogs, we found to be the same as at the last island we had visited,
which the people of this, to whom we pointed out its position, called
Owhavarouah; a name so different from Mangeea Nooe Nainaiwa, which we
learnt from its own inhabitants, that it is highly probable Owhavarouah
is another island.
From the circumstances already mentioned, it appears, that Wateeoo can
be of little use to any ship that wants refreshment, unless in a case of
the most absolute necessity. The natives, knowing now the value of some
of our commodities, might be induced to bring off fruits and hogs to a
ship standing off and on, or to boats lying off the reef, as ours did.
It is doubtful, however, if any fresh water could be procured. For,
though some was brought in cocoa-nut shells to the gentlemen, they were
told that it was at a considerable distance; and probably it is only to
be met with in some stagnant pool, as no running stream was any where
seen.
According to Omai’s report of what he learnt in conversation with his
three countrymen, the manners of these islanders, their method of
treating strangers, and their general habits of life, are much like
those that prevail at Otaheite, and its neighbouring isles. Their
religious ceremonies and opinions are also nearly the same. For upon
seeing one man, who was painted all over of a deep black colour, and
inquiring the reason, our gentlemen were told that he had lately been
paying the last good offices to a deceased friend, and they found that
it was upon similar occasions the women cut themselves, as already
mentioned. From every circumstance, indeed, it is indubitable, that the
natives of Wateeoo sprung, originally, from the same stock, which hath
spread itself so wonderfully all over the immense extent of the South
Sea. One would suppose, however, that they put in their claim to a more
illustrious extraction, for Omai assured us, that they dignified their
island with the appellation of _Wenooa no te Eatooa_, that is, a land of
gods; esteeming themselves a sort of divinities, and possessed with the
spirit of the Eatooa. This wild enthusiastic notion Omai seemed much to
approve of, telling us there were instances of its being entertained at
Otaheite, but that it was universally prevalent amongst the inhabitants
of Mataia, or Osnaburg Island.
The language spoken at Wateeoo was equally well understood by Omai, and
by our two New Zealanders. What its peculiarities may be when compared
with the other dialects, I am not able to point out; for though Mr.
Anderson had taken care to note down a specimen of it, the natives, who
made no distinction of the objects of their theft, stole the
memorandum-book.
CHAP. III.
WENOOA-ETTE, OR OTAKOOTAIA, VISITED.—ACCOUNT OF THAT ISLAND, AND OF ITS
PRODUCE.—HERVEY’S ISLAND, OR TEROUGGE MOU ATTOOA, FOUND TO BE
INHABITED.—TRANSACTIONS WITH THE NATIVES.—THEIR PERSONS, DRESS,
LANGUAGE, CANOES.—FRUITLESS ATTEMPT TO LAND THERE.—REASONS FOR BEARING
AWAY FOR THE FRIENDLY ISLANDS.—PALMERSTON’S ISLAND TOUCHED AT.—
DESCRIPTION OF THE TWO PLACES WHERE THE BOATS LANDED.—REFRESHMENTS
OBTAINED THERE.—CONJECTURES ON THE FORMATION OF SUCH LOW ISLANDS.—
ARRIVAL AT THE FRIENDLY ISLANDS.
Light airs and calms having prevailed, by turns, all the night of the
3d, the easterly swell had carried the ships some distance from Wateeoo,
before day-break. But as I had failed in my object of procuring, at that
place, some effectual supply, I saw no reason for staying there any
longer. I therefore quitted it, without regret, and steered for the
neighbouring island, which, as has been mentioned, we discovered three
days before.
With a gentle breeze at east, we got up with it before ten o’clock in
the morning, and I immediately dispatched Mr. Gore, with two boats, to
endeavour to land, and get some food for our cattle. As there seemed to
be no inhabitants here to obstruct our taking away whatever we might
think proper, I was confident of his being able to make amends for our
late disappointment, if the landing could be effected. There was a reef
here surrounding the land, as at Wateeoo, and a considerable surf
breaking against the rocks; notwithstanding which, our boats no sooner
reached the lee, or west side of the island, but they ventured in, and
Mr. Gore and his party got safe on shore. I could, from the ship, see
that they had succeeded so far; and I immediately sent a small boat to
know what farther assistance was wanting. She did not return till three
o’clock in the afternoon, having waited to take in a lading of what
useful produce the island afforded. As soon as she was cleared she was
sent again for another cargo; the jolly boat was also dispatched, and
Mr. Gore was ordered to be on board, with all the boats, before night;
which was complied with.
The supply obtained here, consisted of about a hundred cocoa-nuts for
each ship; and besides this refreshment for ourselves, we got for our
cattle some grass, and a quantity of the leaves and branches of young
cocoa-trees, and of the _wharra_ tree, as it is called at Otaheite, the
_pandanus_ of the East Indies. This latter being of a soft, spungy,
juicy nature, the cattle ate it very well, when cut into small pieces;
so that it might be said, without any deviation from truth, that we fed
them upon billet wood.
This island lies in the latitude of 19° 51ʹ S. and the longitude of 201°
37ʹ E. about three or four leagues from Wateeoo, the inhabitants of
which called it Otakootaia; and sometimes they spoke of it under the
appellation of _Wenooa-ette_, which signifies little island. Mr.
Anderson who was on shore with our party, and walked round it, guessed
that it could not be much more than three miles in circuit. From him I
also learned the following particulars. The beach within the reef, is
composed of a white coral sand; above which, the land within does not
rise above six or seven feet, and is covered with a light reddish soil;
but is entirely destitute of water.
The only common trees found there were cocoa-palms, of which there were
several clusters; and vast numbers of the _wharra_. There were,
likewise, the _callophyllum, suriana, guettarda_, a species of
_tournefortia_, and _tabernæ montanæ_, with a few other shrubs; and some
of the _etoa_ tree seen at Wateeoo. A sort of _bind-weed_ over-ran the
vacant spaces; except in some places, where was found a considerable
quantity of _treacle-mustard_, a species of _spurge_, with a few other
small plants, and the _morinda citrifolia_; the fruit of which is eaten
by the natives of Otaheite in times of scarcity. Omai, who had landed
with the party, dressed some of it for their dinner; but it proved very
indifferent.
The only bird seen amongst the trees, was a beautiful cuckoo, of a
chestnut brown, variegated with black, which was shot. But, upon the
shore, were some egg-birds; a small sort of curlew; blue and white
herons; and great numbers of noddies; which last, at this time, laid
their eggs, a little farther up, on the ground, and often rested on the
_wharra_ tree.
One of our people caught a lizard of a most forbidding aspect, though
small, running up a tree; and many, of another sort, were seen. The
bushes toward the sea, were frequented by infinite numbers of a sort of
moth, elegantly speckled with red, black, and white. There were also
several other sorts of moths, as well as some pretty butterflies; and a
few other insects.
Though there were, at this time, no fixed inhabitants upon the island,
indubitable marks remained of its being, at least, occasionally
frequented. In particular, a few empty huts were found. There were also
several large stones erected, like monuments, under the shade of some
trees; and several spaces inclosed with smaller ones, where, probably,
the dead had been buried. And, in one place, a great many cockle-shells,
of a particular sort, finely grooved, and larger than the first, were to
be seen; from which it was reasonable to conjecture, that the island had
been visited by persons who feed partly on shell-fish. In one of the
huts, Mr. Gore left a hatchet and some nails, to the full value of what
we took away.
As soon as the boats were hoisted in, I made sail again to the
northward, with a light air of wind easterly; intending to try our
fortune at Hervey’s Island, which was discovered in 1773, during my last
voyage.[171] Although it was not above fifteen leagues distant, yet we
did not get sight of it till day-break in the morning of the 6th, when
it bore west south-west, at the distance of about three leagues. As we
drew near it, at eight o’clock, we observed several canoes put off from
the shore; and they came directly toward the ships. This was a sight
that, indeed, surprised me, as no signs of inhabitants were seen when
the island was first discovered, which might be owing to a pretty brisk
wind that then blew, and prevented their canoes venturing out, as the
ships passed to leeward; whereas now we were to windward.
As we still kept on toward the island, six or seven of the canoes, all
double ones, soon came near us. There were from three to six men in each
of them. They stopped at the distance of about a stone’s throw from the
ship; and it was some time before Omai could prevail upon them to come
alongside; but no intreaties could induce any of them to venture on
board. Indeed, their disorderly and clamorous behaviour by no means
indicated a disposition to trust us, or treat us well. We afterward
learnt that they had attempted to take some oars out of the Discovery’s
boat, that lay along-side, and struck a man who endeavoured to prevent
them. They also cut away, with a shell, a net with meat, which hung over
that ship’s stern, and absolutely refused to restore it; though we,
afterward, purchased it from them. Those who were about our ship,
behaved in the same daring manner; for they made a sort of hook, of a
long stick, with which they endeavoured openly to rob us of several
things; and, at last, actually got a frock belonging to one of our
people, that was towing overboard. At the same time, they immediately
showed a knowledge of bartering, and sold some fish they had (amongst
which was an extraordinary flounder, spotted like porphyry; and a
crame-coloured eel, spotted with black), for small nails, of which they
were immoderately fond, and called them _goore_. But, indeed, they
caught, with the greatest avidity, bits of paper, or any thing else that
was thrown to them; and if what was thrown fell into the sea, they made
no scruple to swim after it.
These people seemed to differ as much in person, as in disposition, from
the natives of Wateeoo; though the distance between the two islands is
not very great. Their colour was of a deeper cast; and several had a
fierce, rugged aspect, resembling the natives of New Zealand; but some
were fairer. They had strong black hair, which, in general, they wore
either hanging loose about the shoulders, or tied in a bunch on the
crown of the head. Some, however, had it cropped pretty short; and, in
two or three of them, it was of a brown, or reddish colour. Their only
covering was a narrow piece of mat, wrapt several times round the lower
part of the body, and which passed between the thighs; but a fine cap of
red feathers was seen lying in one of the canoes. The shell of a
pearl-oyster polished, and hung about the neck, was the only ornamental
fashion that we observed amongst them; for not one of them had adopted
that mode of ornament, so generally prevalent amongst the natives of
this Ocean of puncturing, or _tatooing_ their bodies.
Though singular in this, we had the most unequivocal proofs of their
being of the same common race. Their language approached still nearer to
the dialect of Otaheite, than that of Wateeoo, or Mangeea. Like the
inhabitants of these two islands, they inquired from whence our ships
came; and whither bound; who was our chief; the number of our men on
board; and even the ship’s name. And they very readily answered such
questions as we proposed to them. Amongst other things, they told us,
they had seen two great ships, like ours, before; but that they had not
spoken with them as they sailed past. There can be no doubt, that these
were the Resolution and Adventure. We learnt from them, that the name of
their island is Terouggemou Atooa; and that they were subject to
Teerevatooeah, king of Wateeoo.[172] According to the account that they
gave, their articles of food are cocoa-nuts, fish, and turtle; the
island not producing plantains, or bread-fruit; and being destitute of
hogs and dogs. Their canoes, of which near thirty were at one time in
sight, are pretty large and well built. In the construction of the
stern, they bear some resemblance to those of Wateeoo; and the head
projects out nearly in the same manner; but the extremity is turned up
instead of down.
Having but very little wind, it was one o’clock before we drew near the
north-west part of the island; the only part where there seemed to be
any probability of finding anchorage for our ships, or a landing-place
for our boats. In this position, I sent Lieutenant King, with two armed
boats, to sound and reconnoitre the coast, while we stood off and on
with the ships. The instant the boats were hoisted out, our visitors in
the canoes, who had remained alongside all the while, bartering their
little trifles, suspended their traffic, and pushing for the shore as
fast as they could, came near us no more.
At three o’clock, the boats returned; and Mr. King informed me, “That
there was no anchorage for the ships; and that the boats could only land
on the outer edge of the reef, which lay about a quarter of a mile from
the dry land. He said, that a number of the natives came down upon the
reef, armed with long pikes and clubs, as if they intended to oppose his
landing. And yet when he drew near enough, they threw some cocoa-nuts to
our people, and invited them to come on shore; though, at the very same
time, he observed, that the women were very busy bringing down a fresh
supply of spears and darts. But, as he had no motive to land, he did not
give them an opportunity to use them.”
Having received this report, I considered, that, as the ships could not
be brought to an anchor, we should find that the attempt to procure
grass here, would occasion much delay, as well as be attended with some
danger. Besides, we were equally in want of water; and though the
inhabitants had told us that there was water on their island, yet we
neither knew in what quantity, nor from what distance, we might be
obliged to fetch it. And, after all, supposing no other obstruction, we
were sure that to get over the reef, would be an operation equally
difficult and tedious.
Being thus disappointed at all the islands we had met with, since our
leaving New Zealand, and the unfavourable winds, and other unforeseen
circumstances, having unavoidably retarded our progress so much, it was
now impossible to think of doing any thing this year, in the high
latitudes of the northern hemisphere, from which we were still at so
great a distance, though the season for our operations there was already
begun. In this situation, it was absolutely necessary to pursue such
measures as were most likely to preserve the cattle we had on board, in
the first place; and, in the next place (which was still a more capital
object), to save the stores and provisions of the ships, that we might
be better enabled to prosecute our northern discoveries, which could not
now commence till a year later than was originally intended.
If I had been so fortunate as to have procured a supply of water, and of
grass, at any of the islands we had lately visited, it was my purpose to
have stood back to the south, till I had met with a westerly wind. But
the certain consequence of doing this without such a supply, would have
been the loss of all the cattle, before we could possibly reach
Otaheite, without gaining any one advantage with regard to the great
object of our voyage.
I therefore determined to bear away for the Friendly Islands, where I
was sure of meeting with abundance of every thing I wanted, and it being
necessary to run in the night as well as in the day, I ordered Captain
Clerke to keep about a league ahead of the Resolution. I used this
precaution, because his ship could best claw off the land, and it was
very possible we might fall in with some, in our passage.
The longitude of Hervey’s Island, when first discovered, deduced from
Otaheite, by the time-keeper, was found to be 201° 6ʹ E., and now, by
the same time-keeper, deduced from Queen Charlotte’s Sound, 200° 56ʹ E.
Hence I conclude, that the error of the time-keeper at this time, did
not exceed twelve miles in longitude.
When we bore away I steered west by south, with a fine breeze easterly.
I proposed to proceed first to Middleburgh, or Eooa, thinking, if the
wind continued favourable, that we had food enough on board for the
cattle, to last till we should reach that island. But about noon next
day, those faint breezes, that had attended and retarded us so long,
again returned, and I found it necessary to haul more to the north, to
get into the latitude of Palmerston’s and Savage Islands, discovered in
1774, during my last voyage[173], that if necessity required it, we
might have recourse to them.
This day, in order to save our water, I ordered the still to be kept at
work, from six o’clock in the morning to four in the afternoon, during
which time, we procured from thirteen to sixteen gallons of fresh water.
There has been lately made some improvement, as they are pleased to call
it, of this machine, which, in my opinion, is much for the worse.
These light breezes continued till the 10th, when we had for some hours
the wind blowing fresh from the north, and north north-west, being then
in the latitude of 18° 38ʹ, and longitude 198° 24ʹ E. In the afternoon,
we had some thunder squalls from the south, attended with heavy rain, of
which water, we collected enough to fill five puncheons. After these
squalls had blown over the wind came round to the north-east and
north-west; being very unsettled both in strength and in position, till
about noon the next day, when it fixed at north-west and north
north-west, and blew a fresh breeze with fair weather.
Thus were we persecuted with a wind in our teeth whichever way we
directed our course, and we had the additional mortification to find
here those very winds, which we had reason to expect 8° or 10° farther
south. They came too late; for I durst not trust their continuance, and
the event proved that I judged right.
At length, at day-break, in the morning of the 13th, we saw Palmerston
Island, bearing west by south, distant about five leagues. However, we
did not get up with it till eight o’clock the next morning. I then sent
four boats, three from the Resolution, and one from the Discovery, with
an officer in each, to search the coast for the most convenient
landing-place. For now we were under an absolute necessity of procuring
from this island some food for the cattle, otherwise we must have lost
them.
What is comprehended under the name of Palmerston’s Island, is a group
of small islots, of which there are, in the whole, nine or ten, lying in
a circular direction, and connected together by a reef of coral rocks.
The boats first examined the south easternmost of the islots which
compose this group, and failing there, ran down to the second, where we
had the satisfaction to see them land. I then bore down with the ships
till abreast of the place, and there we kept standing off and on; for no
bottom was to be found to anchor upon, which was not of much
consequence, as the party who had landed from our boats were the only
human beings upon the island.
About one o’clock, one of the boats came on board, laden with
scurvy-grass and young cocoa-nut trees, which at this time, was a feast
for the cattle. The same boat brought a message from Mr. Gore, who
commanded the party, informing me, that there was plenty of such produce
upon the island, as also of the _wharra_ tree, and some cocoa-nuts. This
determined me to get a good supply of these articles before I quitted
this station, and before evening, I went ashore in a small boat,
accompanied by Captain Clerke.
We found every body hard at work, and the landing-place to be in a small
creek, formed by the reef, of something more than a boat’s length in
every direction, and covered from the force of the sea by rocks
projecting out on each side of it. The island is scarcely a mile in
circuit; and not above three feet higher than the level of the sea. It
appeared to be composed entirely of a coral sand, with a small mixture
of blackish mould, produced from rotten vegetables. Notwithstanding this
poor soil, it is covered with trees and bushes of the same kind as at
Wenooa-ette, though with less variety; and amongst these are some
cocoa-palms. Upon the trees or bushes that front the sea, or even
farther in, we found a great number of men-of-war birds, tropic birds,
and two sorts of boobies, which, at this time were laying their eggs,
and so tame that they suffered us to take them off with our hands. Their
nests were only a few sticks loosely put together, and the tropic birds
laid their eggs on the ground, under the trees. These differ much from
the common sort, being entirely of a most splendid white, slightly
tinged with red, and having the two long tail-feathers of a deep crimson
or blood colour. Of each sort our people killed a considerable number,
and though not the most delicate food, they were acceptable enough to
us, who had been long confined on a salt diet, and who, consequently,
could not but be glad of the most indifferent variety. We met with vast
numbers of red crabs creeping about every where amongst the trees, and
we caught several fish that had been left in holes upon the reef, when
the sea retired.
At one part of the reef, which looks into or bounds the lake that is
within, there was a large bed of coral, almost even with the surface,
which afforded, perhaps, one of the most enchanting prospects, that
nature has any where produced. Its base was fixed to the shore, but
reached so far in that it could not be seen; so that it seemed to be
suspended in the water, which deepened so suddenly, that, at the
distance of a few yards, there might be seven or eight fathoms. The sea
was, at this time, quite unruffled; and the sun, shining bright, exposed
the various sorts of coral, in the most beautiful order; some parts
branching into the water with great luxuriance; others lying collected
in round balls, and in various other figures; all which were greatly
heightened by spangles of the richest colours, that glowed from a number
of large clams, which were every where interspersed. But the appearance
of these was still inferior to that of the multitude of fishes, that
glided gently along, seemingly with the most perfect security. The
colours of the different sorts were the most beautiful that can be
imagined; the yellow, blue, red, black, &c. far exceeding any thing that
art can produce. Their various forms, also, contributed to increase the
richness of this submarine grotto, which could not be surveyed without a
pleasing transport, mixed, however, with regret, that a work, so
stupendously elegant, should be concealed in a place where mankind could
seldom have an opportunity of rendering the praises justly due to so
enchanting a scene.
There were no traces of inhabitants having ever been here; if we except
a small piece of a canoe that was found upon the beach; which, probably,
may have drifted from some other island. But, what is pretty
extraordinary, we saw several small brown rats on this spot; a
circumstance, perhaps, difficult to account for, unless we allow that
they were imported in the canoe of which we saw the remains.
After the boats were laden, I returned on board, leaving Mr. Gore, with
a party, to pass the night on shore, in order to be ready to go to work
early the next morning.
That day, being the 15th, was accordingly spent, as the preceding one
had been, in collecting, and bringing on board, food for the cattle,
consisting chiefly of palm-cabbage, young cocoa-nut trees, and the
tender branches of the _wharra_ tree. Having got a sufficient supply of
these by sun-set, I ordered every body on board. But having little or no
wind, I determined to wait, and to employ the next day, by endeavouring
to get some cocoa-nuts for our people, from the next island to leeward,
where we could observe that those trees were in much greater abundance,
than upon that where we had already landed, and where only the wants of
our cattle had been relieved.
With this view, I kept standing off and on, all night; and, in the
morning, between eight and nine o’clock, I went with the boats to the
west side of the island, and landed with little difficulty. I
immediately set the people with me to work, to gather cocoa-nuts, which
we found in great abundance. But to get them to our boats was a tedious
operation; for we were obliged to carry them at least half a mile over
the reef, up to the middle in water. Omai, who was with me, caught, with
a scoop net, in a very short time, as much fish as served the whole
party on shore for dinner, besides sending some to both ships. Here were
also great abundance of birds, particularly men-of-war and tropic birds;
so that we fared sumptuously. And it is but doing justice to Omai to
say, that, in these excursions to the uninhabited islands, he was of the
greatest use. For he not only caught the fish, but dressed these, and
the birds we killed, in an oven, with heated stones, after the fashion
of his country, with a dexterity and good-humour that did him great
credit. The boats made two trips before night well laden; with the last,
I returned on board, leaving Mr. Williamson, my third lieutenant, with a
party of men, to prepare another lading for the boats which I proposed
to send next morning.
I, accordingly, dispatched them at seven o’clock, and they returned
laden by noon. No time was lost in sending them back for another cargo;
and they carried orders for every body to be on board by sunset. This
being complied with, we hoisted in the boats and made sail to the
westward, with a light air of wind from the north.
We found this islot near a half larger than the other, and almost
entirely covered with cocoa-palms; the greatest part of which abounded
with excellent nuts, having often both old and young on the same tree.
They were, indeed, too thick in many places to grow with freedom. The
other productions were, in general, the same as at the first islot. Two
pieces of board, one of which was rudely carved, with an elliptical
paddle, were found on the beach. Probably, these had belonged to the
same canoe, the remains of which were seen on the other beach, as the
two islots are not above half a mile apart. A young turtle had also been
lately thrown ashore here, as it was still full of maggots. There were
fewer crabs than at the last place; but we found some scorpions, a few
other insects, and a greater number of fish upon the reefs. Amongst
these were some large eels, beautifully spotted, which, when followed,
would raise themselves out of the water, and endeavour, with an open
mouth, to bite their pursuers. The other sorts were, chiefly,
parrot-fish, snappers, and a brown spotted rock-fish, about the size of
a haddock, so tame, that, instead of swimming away, it would remain
fixed, and gaze at us. Had we been in absolute want, a sufficient supply
might have been had; for thousands of the clams, already mentioned,
stuck upon the reef, some of which weighed two or three pounds. There
were, besides, some other sorts of shell-fish; particularly, the large
periwinkle. When the tide flowed, several sharks came in, over the reef,
some of which our people killed; but they rendered it rather dangerous
to walk in the water at that time.
The party who were left on shore with Mr. Williamson, were a good deal
pestered, (as Mr. Gore’s had been) with musquitoes, in the night. Some
of them, in their excursions, shot two curlews, exactly like those of
England; and saw some plovers, or sand-pipers, upon the shore; but, in
the wood, no other bird besides one or two of the cuckoos that were seen
at Wenooa-ette.
Upon the whole, we did not spend our time unprofitably at this islot;
for we got there about twelve hundred cocoa-nuts, which were equally
divided amongst the whole crew; and were, doubtless, of great use to
them, both on account of the juice and of the kernel. A ship, therefore,
passing this way, if the weather be moderate, may expect to succeed as
we did. But there is no water upon either of the islots where we landed.
Were that article to be had, and a passage could be got into the lake,
as we may call it, surrounded by the reef, where a ship could anchor, I
should prefer this to any of the inhabited islands, if the only want
were refreshment; for the quantity of fish that might be procured, would
be sufficient; and the people might roam about unmolested by the
petulance of any inhabitants.
The nine or ten low islots, comprehended under the name of Palmerston’s
Island, may be reckoned the heads or summits of the reef of coral rock,
that connects them together, covered only with a thin coat of sand, yet
clothed, as already observed, with trees and plants; most of which are
of the same sorts that are found on the low grounds of the high islands
of this ocean.
There are different opinions amongst ingenious theorists, concerning the
formation of such low islands as Palmerston’s. Some will have it, that,
in remote times, these little separate heads or islots were joined, and
formed one continued and more elevated tract of land, which the sea, in
the revolution of ages, has washed away, leaving only the higher
grounds; which, in time, also, will, according to this theory, share the
same fate. Another conjecture is, that they have been thrown up by
earthquakes, and are the effect of internal convulsions of the globe. A
third opinion, and which appears to me as the most probable one,
maintains, that they are formed from shoals, or coral banks, and of
consequence increasing. Without mentioning the several arguments made
use of in support of each of these systems, I shall only describe such
parts of Palmerston’s Island, as fell under my own observation when I
landed upon it.
The foundation is, every where, a coral rock; the soil is coral sand,
with which the decayed vegetables have, but in a few places, intermixed,
so as to form any thing like mould. From this, a very strong presumption
may be drawn, that these little spots of land, are not of very ancient
date, nor the remains of larger islands now buried in the ocean. For,
upon either of these suppositions, more mould must have been formed, or
some part of the original soil would have remained. Another circumstance
confirmed this doctrine of the increase of these islots. We found upon
them, far beyond the present reach of the sea, even in the most violent
storms, elevated coral rocks, which, on examination, appeared to have
been perforated, in the same manner that the rocks are, that now compose
the outer edge of the reef. This evidently shows, that the sea had
formerly reached so far; and some of these perforated rocks were almost
in the centre of the land.
But the strongest proof of the increase, and from the cause we have
assigned, was the gentle gradation observable in the plants round the
skirts of the islands; from within a few inches of high-water mark, to
the edge of the wood. In many places, the divisions of the plants, of
different growths, were very distinguishable, especially on the lee, or
west side. This, I apprehend, to have been the operation of
extraordinary high tides, occasioned by violent, accidental gales from
the westward; which have heaped up the sand beyond the reach of common
tides. The regular and gentle operation of these latter, again, throw up
sand enough to form a barrier against the next extraordinary high tide,
or storm, so as to prevent its reaching as far as the former had done,
and destroying the plants that may have begun to vegetate from
cocoa-nuts, roots, and seed brought thither by birds, or thrown up by
the sea. This, doubtless, happens very frequently; for we found many
cocoa-nuts, and some other things, just sprouting up, only a few inches
beyond where the sea reaches at present, in places where, it was
evident, they could not have had their origin from those, farther in,
already arrived at their full growth. At the same time, the increase of
vegetables will add fast to the height of this new-created land; as the
fallen leaves, and broken branches, are, in such a climate, soon
converted into a true black mould, or soil.[174]
Perhaps there is another cause, which, if allowed, will accelerate the
increase of these islands as much as any other; and will also account
for the sea having receded from those elevated rocks before mentioned.
This is, the spreading of the coral bank, or reef, into the sea; which,
in my opinion, is continually, though imperceptibly, affected. The waves
receding, as the reef grows in breadth and height, leave a dry rock
behind, ready for the reception of the broken coral and sand, and every
other deposit necessary for the formation of land fit for the vegetation
of plants.
In this manner, there is little doubt, that, in time, the whole reef
will become one island; and, I think, it will extend gradually inward,
either from the increase of the islots already formed, or from the
formation of new ones, upon the beds of coral, within the inclosed lake,
if once they increase so as to rise above the level of the sea.
After leaving Palmerston’s Island, I steered west, with a view to make
the best of my way to Annamooka. We still continued to have variable
winds, frequently between the north and west, with squalls, some
thunder, and much rain. During these showers, which were generally very
copious, we saved a considerable quantity of water; and finding that we
could get a greater supply by the rain, in one hour, than we could get
by distillation in a month, I laid aside the still, as a thing attended
with more trouble than profit.
The heat, which had been great for about a month, became now much more
disagreeable in this close rainy weather; and, from the moisture
attending it, threatened soon to be noxious; as the ships could not be
kept dry, nor the skuttles open, for the sea. However, it is remarkable
enough, that though the only refreshment we had received, since leaving
the Cape of Good Hope, was that at New Zealand, there was not, as yet, a
single person on board sick from the constant use of salt food, or
vicissitude of climate.
In the night between the 24th and 25th we passed Savage Island, which I
had discovered in 1774[175]; and on the 28th, at ten o’clock in the
morning, we got sight of the islands which lie to the eastward of
Annamooka, bearing north by west, about four or five leagues distant. I
steered to the south of these islands, and then hauled up for Annamooka;
which, at four in the afternoon, bore north-west by north, Fallafajeea
south-west by south, and Komango north by west, distant about five
miles. The weather being squally, with rain, I anchored, at the approach
of night, in fifteen fathoms deep water, over a bottom of coral, sand,
and shells; Komango bearing north-west, about two leagues distant.
CHAP. IV.
INTERCOURSE WITH THE NATIVES OF KOMANGO, AND OTHER ISLANDS.—ARRIVAL AT
ANNAMOOKA.—TRANSACTIONS THERE.—FEENOU, A PRINCIPAL CHIEF, FROM
TONGATABOO, COMES ON A VISIT.—THE MANNER OF HIS RECEPTION IN THE
ISLAND, AND ON BOARD.—INSTANCES OF THE PILFERING DISPOSITION OF THE
NATIVES.—SOME ACCOUNT OF ANNAMOOKA.—THE PASSAGE FROM IT TO HAPAEE.
Soon after we had anchored, two canoes, the one with four, and the other
with three men, paddled toward us, and came along side without the least
hesitation. They brought some cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, plantains, and
sugar-cane, which they bartered with us for nails. One of the men came
on board; and when these canoes had left us, another visited us; but did
not stay long, as night was approaching. Komango, the island nearest to
us, was at least five miles off; which shows the hazard these people
would run, in order to possess a few of our most trifling articles.
Besides this supply from the shore, we caught this evening, with hooks
and lines, a considerable quantity of fish.
Next morning, at four o’clock, I sent Lieutenant King, with two boats,
to Komango, to procure refreshments; and, at five, made the signal to
weigh, in order to ply up to Annamooka, the wind being unfavourable at
north-west.
It was no sooner day-light, than we were visited by six or seven canoes
from different islands, bringing with them, besides fruits and roots,
two pigs, several fowls, some large wood-pigeons, small rails, and large
violet-coloured coots. All these they exchanged with us for beads,
nails, hatchets, &c. They had also other articles of commerce; such as
pieces of their cloth, fish-hooks, small baskets, musical reeds, and
some clubs, spears, and bows. But I ordered that no curiosities should
be purchased, till the ships should be supplied with provisions, and
leave given for that purpose. Knowing, also, from experience, that if
all our people might trade with the natives, according to their own
caprice, perpetual quarrels would ensue, I ordered that particular
persons should manage the traffic both on board and on shore,
prohibiting all others to interfere. Before mid-day, Mr. King’s boat
returned with seven hogs, some fowls, a quantity of fruit and roots for
ourselves, and some grass for the cattle. His party was very civilly
treated at Komango. The inhabitants did not seem to be numerous; and
their huts, which stood close to each other, within a plantain walk,
were but indifferent. Not far from them, was a pretty large pond of
fresh water, tolerably good; but there was not any appearance of a
stream. With Mr. King, came on board the chief of the island, named
Tooboulangee; and another, whose name was Taipa. They brought with them
a hog as a present to me, and promised more the next day.
As soon as the boats were aboard, I stood for Annamooka; and the wind
being scant, I intended to go between Annamooka-ette[176], and the
breakers to the south-east of it. But, on drawing near, we met with very
irregular soundings, varying, every cast, ten or twelve fathoms. This
obliged me to give up the design, and to go to the southward of all;
which carried us to leeward, and made it necessary to spend the night
under sail. It was very dark; and we had the wind, from every direction,
accompanied with heavy showers of rain. So that, at day-light the next
morning, we found ourselves much farther off than we had been the
evening before; and the little wind that now blew, was right in our
teeth.
We continued to ply, all day, to very little purpose; and, in the
evening, anchored in thirty-nine fathoms’ water; the bottom coral rocks,
and broken shells; the west point of Annamooka bearing E. N. E., four
miles distant. Tooboulangee and Taipa kept their promise, and brought
off to me some hogs. Several others were also procured by bartering,
from different canoes that followed us; and as much fruit as we could
well manage. It was remarkable, that, during the whole day, our visitors
from the islands would hardly part with any of their commodities to any
body but me. Captain Clerke did not get above one or two hogs.
At four o’clock next morning, I ordered a boat to be hoisted out, and
sent the master to sound the south-west side of Annamooka; where there
appeared to be a harbour, formed by the island on the north-east, and by
small islots and shoals, to the south-west and south-east. In the mean
time the ships were got under sail, and wrought up to the island.
When the master returned, he reported, that he had sounded between Great
and Little Annamooka, where he found ten and twelve fathoms’ depth of
water, the bottom coral sand; that the place was very well sheltered
from all winds; but that there was no fresh water to be found, except at
some distance inland; and that, even there, little of it was to be got,
and that little not good. For this reason only, and it was a very
sufficient one, I determined to anchor on the north side of the island,
where, during my last voyage, I had found a place fit both for watering
and landing.
It was not above a league distant; and yet we did not reach it till five
o’clock in the afternoon, being considerably retarded by the great
number of canoes that continually crowded round the ships, bringing to
us abundant supplies of the produce of their island. Amongst these
canoes, there were some double ones, with a large sail, that carried
between forty and fifty men each. These sailed round us apparently with
the same ease, as if we had been at anchor. There were several women in
the canoes, who were, perhaps, incited by curiosity to visit us; though,
at the same time, they bartered as eagerly as the men, and used the
paddle with equal labour and dexterity. I came to an anchor in eighteen
fathoms’ water, the bottom coarse coral sand; the island extending from
east to south-west; and the west point of the westernmost cove
south-east, about three quarters of a mile distant. Thus I resumed the
very same station which I had occupied when I visited Annamooka three
years before[177]; and, probably, almost in the same place where Tasman,
the first discoverer of this, and some of the neighbouring islands,
anchored in 1643.[178]
The following day, while preparations were making for watering, I went
ashore, in the forenoon, accompanied by Captain Clerke, and some of the
officers, to fix on a place where the observatories might be set up, and
a guard be stationed; the natives having readily given us leave. They
also accommodated us with a boat-house, to serve as a tent, and showed
us every other mark of civility. Toobou, the chief of the island,
conducted me and Omai to his house. We found it situated on a pleasant
spot, in the centre of his plantation. A fine grass plot surrounded it,
which he gave us to understand, was for the purpose of cleaning their
feet, before they went within doors. I had not before observed such an
instance of attention to cleanliness at any of the places I had visited
in this ocean; but afterward found, that it was very common at the
Friendly Islands. The floor of Toobou’s house was covered with mats; and
no carpet in the most elegant English drawing-room could be kept neater.
While we were on shore, we procured a few hogs, and some fruit, by
bartering; and, before we got on board again, the ships were crowded
with the natives. Few of them coming empty-handed, every necessary
refreshment was now in the greatest plenty.
I landed again in the afternoon, with a party of marines; and, at the
same time, the horses, and such of the cattle as were in a weakly state,
were sent on shore. Every thing being settled to my satisfaction, I
returned to the ship at sunset, leaving the command upon the island to
Mr. King. Taipa, who was now become our fast friend, and who seemed to
be the only active person about us, in order to be near our party in the
night, as well as the day, had a house brought on men’s shoulders a full
quarter of a mile, and placed close to the shed which our party
occupied.
Next day our various operations on shore began. Some were employed in
making hay for the cattle; others in filling our water-casks at the
neighbouring stagnant pool; and a third party in cutting wood. The
greatest plenty of this last article being abreast of the ships, and in
a situation the most convenient for getting it on board, it was natural
to make choice of this. But the trees here, which our people erroneously
supposed to be manchineel, but were a species of pepper, called
_faitanoo_ by the natives, yielded a juice of a milky colour, of so
corrosive a nature, that it raised blisters on the skin, and injured the
eyes of our workmen. They were, therefore, obliged to desist at this
place, and remove to the cove, in which our guard was stationed, and
where we embarked our water. Other wood, more suitable to our purposes,
was there furnished to us by the natives. These were not the only
employments we were engaged in, for Messrs. King and Bayly began this
day to observe equal altitudes of the sun, in order to get the rate of
the time-keepers. In the evening, before the natives retired from our
post, Taipa harangued them for some time. We could only guess at the
subject; and judged, that he was instructing them how to behave toward
us, and encouraging them to bring the produce of the island to market.
We experienced the good effects of his eloquence, in the plentiful
supply of provisions which, next day, we received.
Nothing worth notice happened on the 4th and 5th, except that, on the
former of these days, the Discovery lost her small bower anchor, the
cable being cut in two by the rocks. This misfortune made it necessary
to examine the cables of the Resolution, which were found to be unhurt.
On the 6th we were visited by a great chief from Tongataboo, whose name
was Feenou, and whom Taipa was pleased to introduce to us as king of all
the Friendly Isles. I was now told, that on my arrival, a canoe had been
dispatched to Tongataboo with the news; in consequence of which, this
chief immediately passed over to Annamooka. The officer on shore
informed me, that when he first arrived, all the natives were ordered
out to meet him, and paid their obeisance by bowing their heads as low
as his feet, the soles of which they also touched with each hand, first
with the palm, and then with the back part. There could be little room
to suspect that a person, received with so much respect, could be any
thing less than the king.
In the afternoon, I went to pay this great man a visit, having first
received a present of two fish from him, brought on board by one of his
servants. As soon as I landed, he came up to me. He appeared to be about
thirty years of age, tall but thin, and had more of the European
features, than any I had yet seen here. When the first salutation was
over, I asked if he was the king; for, notwithstanding what I had been
told, finding he was not the man whom I remembered to have seen under
that character during my former voyage, I began to entertain doubts.
Taipa officiously answered for him, and enumerated no less than one
hundred and fifty-three islands, of which he said, Feenou was the
sovereign. After a short stay, our new visitor, and five or six of his
attendants, accompanied me on board. I gave suitable presents to them
all, and entertained them in such a manner, as I thought would be most
agreeable.
In the evening, I attended them on shore in my boat, into which the
chief ordered three hogs to be put, as a return for the presents he had
received from me. I was now informed of an accident which had just
happened, the relation of which will convey some idea of the extent of
the authority exercised here over the common people. While Feenou was on
board my ship, an inferior chief, for what reason our people on shore
did not know, ordered all the natives to retire from the post we
occupied. Some of them having ventured to return, he took up a large
stick and beat them most unmercifully. He struck one man, on the side of
the face, with so much violence, that the blood gushed out of his mouth
and nostrils; and, after lying some time motionless, he was at last
removed from the place in convulsions. The person who had inflicted the
blow, being told that he had killed the man, only laughed at it; and, it
was evident, that he was not in the least sorry for what had happened.
We heard, afterward, that the poor sufferer recovered.
The Discovery having found again her small bower anchor, shifted her
birth on the 7th; but not before her best bower cable had shared the
fate of the other. This day, I had the company of Feenou at dinner; and
also the next day, when he was attended by Taipa, Toobou, and some other
chiefs. It was remarkable, that none but Taipa was allowed to sit at
table with him, or even to eat in his presence. I own that I considered
Feenou as a very convenient guest, on account of this etiquette. For,
before his arrival, I had generally a larger company than I could well
find room for, and my table overflowed with crowds of both sexes. For it
is not the custom at the Friendly Islands, as it is at Otaheite, to deny
to their females the privilege of eating in company with the men.
The first day of our arrival at Annamooka, one of the natives had stolen
out of the ship a large junk axe. I now applied to Feenou to exert his
authority to get it restored to me; and so implicitly was he obeyed,
that it was brought on board while we were at dinner. These people gave
us very frequent opportunities of remarking what expert thieves they
were. Even some of their chiefs did not think this profession beneath
them. On the 9th, one of them was detected carrying out of the ship,
concealed under his clothes, the bolt belonging to the spun-yarn winch,
for which I sentenced him to receive a dozen lashes, and kept him
confined till he paid a hog for his liberty. After this we were not
troubled with thieves of rank. Their servants, or slaves however, were
still employed in this dirty work; and upon them a flogging seemed to
make no greater impression than it would have done upon the mainmast.
When any of them happened to be caught in the act, their masters, far
from interceding for them, would often advise us to kill them. As this
was a punishment we did not choose to inflict, they generally escaped
without any punishment at all; for they appeared to us to be equally
insensible of the shame and of the pain of corporal chastisement.
Captain Clerke at last hit upon a mode of treatment which we thought had
some effect. He put them under the hands of the barber, and completely
shaved their heads; thus pointing them out as objects of ridicule to
their countrymen, and enabling our people to deprive them of future
opportunities for a repetition of their rogueries, by keeping them at a
distance.
Feenou was so fond of associating with us, that he dined on board ever
day, though sometimes he did not partake of our fare. On the 10th, some
of his servants brought a mess which had been dressed for him on shore.
It consisted of fish, soup, and yams. Instead of common water to make
the soup, cocoa-nut liquor had been made use of, in which the fish had
been boiled or stewed, probably in a wooden vessel with hot stones; but
it was carried on board in a plantain leaf. I tasted of the mess, and
found it so good, that I afterwards had some fish dressed in the same
way. Though my cook succeeded tolerably well, he could produce nothing
equal to the dish he imitated.
Finding that we had quite exhausted the island of almost every article
of food that it afforded, I employed the 11th in moving off from the
shore the horses, observatories, and other things that we had landed, as
also the party of marines who had mounted guard at our station,
intending to sail as soon as the Discovery should have recovered her
best bower anchor. Feenou understanding that I meant to proceed directly
to Tongataboo, importuned me strongly to alter this plan, to which he
expressed as much aversion as if he had some particular interest to
promote by diverting me from it. In preference to it he warmly
recommended an island or rather a group of islands called Hapaee, lying
to the north-east. There he assured us we could be supplied plentifully
with every refreshment in the easiest manner; and to add weight to his
advice, he engaged to attend us thither in person. He carried his point
with me; and Hapaee was made choice of for our next station. As it had
never been visited by any European ships, the examination of it became
an object with me.
[Illustration: _View at Annamooka_]
The 12th and the 13th were spent in attempting the recovery of Captain
Clerke’s anchor, which, after much trouble, was happily accomplished;
and on the 14th in the morning we got under sail, and left Annamooka.
This island is somewhat higher than the other small isles that surround
it; but still it cannot be admitted to the rank of those of a moderate
height, such as Mangeea and Wateeoo. The shore, at that part where our
ships lay, is composed of a steep, rugged coral rock, nine or ten feet
high, except where there are two sandy beaches, which have a reef of the
same sort of rock extending cross their entrance to the shore, and
defending them from the sea. The salt-water lake that is in the centre
of the island is about a mile and a half broad; and round it the land
rises like a bank, with a gradual ascent. But we could not trace its
having any communication with the sea. And yet the land that runs across
to it from the largest sandy beach being flat and low, and the soil
sandy, it is most likely that it may have formerly communicated that
way. The soil on the rising parts of the island, and especially toward
the sea, is either of a reddish clayey disposition, or a black loose
mould; but there is no where any stream of fresh water.
The island is very well cultivated, except in a few places; and there
are some others which, though they appear to lie waste, are only left to
recover the strength exhausted by constant culture; for we frequently
saw the natives at work upon these spots to plant them again. The
plantations consist chiefly of yams and plantains. Many of them are very
extensive, and often inclosed with neat fences of reed, disposed
obliquely across each other, about six feet high. Within these we often
saw other fences of less compass surrounding the houses of the principal
people. The bread-fruit and cocoa-nut trees are interspersed with little
order, but chiefly near the habitations of the natives; and the other
parts of the island, especially toward the sea, and about the sides of
the lake, are covered with trees and bushes of a most luxuriant growth;
the last place having a great many mangroves, and the first a vast
number of the _faitanoo_ trees already mentioned. There seem to be no
rocks or stones of any kind about the island that are not coral, except
in one place to the right of the sandy beach, where there is a rock
twenty or thirty feet high, of a calcareous stone of a yellowish colour,
and a very close texture. But even about that place, which is the
highest part of the land, are large pieces of the same coral rock that
composes the shore.