CHAPTER XXVI

MAKING FRUIT TREES BEAR

“If one side of a tree is pruned very short and the other very long,

the natural course of the sap is to some extent diverted from the first

side toward the second, which is richer in buds and consequently in

foliage. We have just seen how this principle is utilized to check the

growth of too vigorous a part in order to stimulate that of one that is

too feeble and thus redress the balance between the two. But what would

be the result if the whole tree were pruned at once?

“Let us first see what takes place in a single branch. Pruned long, it

preserves the greater part of its buds, all of which call for

nourishment from the sap flowing in that direction; pruned short, it

keeps only a few buds, which having the sap of the entire branch at

their disposal, will receive each a supply that is superabundant in

proportion to the fewness of the buds. For example, what twelve would

ordinarily have had for consumption, two or three will now have to

themselves; and because of this superabundance of nourishment each bud

will develop much more vigorously than it would otherwise have done.

Hence if the whole tree is pruned with an unsparing hand, all the sap

drawn from the soil by the roots, having no longer a tendency to go to

one side rather than the other, will be distributed evenly; and the few

buds left intact by the pruning-shears will show a luxuriance of growth

in proportion to the supply of nourishment placed at their disposal.

Thus thorough pruning applied to the whole tree has the effect of

giving it new vigor, of rejuvenating it in some measure, or, in other

words, of replacing its worn-out branches with vigorous ones.

Accordingly when a tree has become exhausted by abundant fruit-bearing,

it is pruned without stint one year in order to restore its vigor of

growth.

“Let us now see what we should do if we had quite the opposite end in

view; that is, if we wished to make a tree blossom and bear fruit. Here

two principles will serve us as guides. First, in the fulness of its

vigor a tree puts forth long branches and thick foliage, but does not

cover itself with blossoms, bearing in fact only a few. It is not until

it has become somewhat enfeebled that it begins to flower in profusion.

Secondly, what would in the tree’s youthful strength have been a

branch-producing bud becomes in its enfeeblement a flower-bud; so that

a flower may be regarded as a branch which, instead of developing

freely and covering itself with leaves, has remained stunted, thrown

back upon itself, for lack of vigor, and has exchanged its leaves for

floral organs,—sepals, petals, stamens, pistils. Weaken a tree and you

weaken the buds; such, in a word, is the prevailing principle.

“To weaken the buds individually, the pruning-shears will be plied but

sparingly, leaving the buds almost intact; then these, being many in

number, will have so much the less for each one separately, and some of

them, especially toward the lower part of the branch, will find

themselves too feeble to contend with the others and therefore will

take the form of flower-buds, whereas they would have produced branches

and not flowers if a more thorough pruning had rid them of their

rivals.

“To weaken the tree as a whole, all that we have to do is to pinch off

or cut off with the thumb-nail the tender tips of the young branches;

then we bend these branches back so as to give them a number of crooks

and turns that will impede the circulation of the sap. Finally, the

woody branches of the preceding year are broken by the hand, sometimes

wholly, sometimes half, so that the tip is left hanging down. If the

tree is not too vigorous these three methods, pinching, bending, and

breaking, are generally sufficient to make it bear.

“But when we have to do with very exuberant vegetation, more energetic

methods are necessary. One of these we may call arching. The branches

are all bent down so that each forms an arch; that is, the tip-end of

each is pulled down to the ground and fastened there in any way that

may be easiest. This abnormal position of the branch, with its top

downward, is contrary to the ascending movement of the sap, which

consequently flows less freely to the buds. The resulting dearth is

conducive to fruit-bearing, and as soon as this effect is assured the

branches are allowed to return to their natural position; otherwise the

tree would become exhausted.

“Another method is as follows. Pruning is done very late, when the

young shoots are already some centimeters long. The sap used up in the

growth of the shoots cut off by the pruning shears is a great loss to

the tree, which, being no longer able to supply ample nourishment to

the lower buds of the branches, turns them into flower-buds.

“If these means do not suffice to make the tree bear fruit, there are

more violent ones which are employed only in the last extremity. Toward

the end of winter, before the sap has started, an incision some

millimeters wide and deep enough to penetrate the outer layers of wood

is made all around the base of the trunk. Sap, as we know, ascends

through these exterior layers, the newest, the most permeable by

liquids; so if we partially intercept its passage it will flow less

abundantly to the buds and the weakened tree will soon begin to bear.

“Still another expedient is to strike at the very source of the sap,

the roots. The foot of the tree is laid bare in the springtime, its

main roots being denuded of their covering and left thus exposed all

summer to the open air and the hot sun. No longer enjoying the coolness

and darkness necessary to their office, they furnish less nourishment

to the tree, and this scarcity causes the formation of flower-buds. A

still more drastic method, but one that would kill the tree if employed

imprudently, is to strip the roots of the refractory subject without

mercy, cutting and mutilating a certain number of them and then putting

back the earth that has been removed. A diminution in the flow of sap

must necessarily result from this surgical operation. Finally, if the

tree is small enough for the purpose, it is dug up at the end of

autumn, with care to preserve the roots as far as possible, and planted

again somewhere else. The disturbance caused by this change of place

suffices to make the tree blossom the next year.”

Field, Forest and Farm Things interesting to young nature-lovers, including some matters of moment to gardeners and fruit-growers · 第 26 / 62 章