chiefly in human chattels.
Colonel Rigby states that nineteen thousand slaves from the Nyassa
country alone pass annually through the custom-house at Zanzibar.
They, however, represent but a small portion of the sufferers. Besides
those actually captured, thousands are killed and die of their wounds
and famine; thousands more perish in internecine war waged for slaves
with their own clansmen and neighbours. The numerous skeletons seen
among rocks and woods, by the pools, and on the paths of the wilderness,
attest the awful sacrifice of human life.
The doctor saw that a small armed steamer on Lake Nyassa could, by
furnishing goods in exchange for ivory and other products, exercise a
powerful influence in stopping the traffic in that quarter.
The expedition had spent from the 2nd of September to the 27th of
October in exploring the lake, and their goods being now expended, it
was necessary to return to the ship.
On their way back they fell in with a number of Manjanga families,
driven from their homes by Ajawa raids, taking shelter among the papyrus
growing on Lake Pamalombe, supporting themselves on the fine fish which
abound in it.
The party reached the ship on the 8th of November, but in a weak
condition, having latterly suffered greatly from hunger.
On the 14th they received a visit from the bishop, who appeared in
excellent spirits, and believed that all promised well for future
success. Many of the Manjanga had settled round Magomero to be under
his protection, and it was hoped that the slave trade would soon cease
in the neighbourhood. He here arranged to explore the country, from
Magomero to the mouth of the river, and it was agreed that the
"Pioneer," her draught being too great for the upper part of the Shire,
should on her next trip not go higher than Ruo. The bishop's hope was
to meet his sisters and Mrs Burrup, whose husband was one of his
assistants.
With three hearty cheers, the "Pioneer" steamed down the river. The
rain ceasing, she unfortunately ran on a shoal, and was detained in an
unhealthy spot for five weeks. Here the carpenter's mate, a fine
healthy young man, was seized with fever and died. A permanent rise in
the river enabled them at last to get on.
On reaching Ruo, they heard that Mariano had returned from Mozambique,
and was desolating the right bank of the river. He had lived in luxury
during his nominal imprisonment, and was now able to set the Portuguese
at defiance. An officer sent against him, instead of capturing the
rebel, was captured himself, but soon returned to Tete with a present of
ivory he had received.
The Zambesi was reached on the 11th of January, 1862, when the "Pioneer"
proceeded to the Great Luabo mouth of the river.
On the 30th HMS "Gorgon" arrived, towing the brig which brought out Mrs
Livingstone and some ladies about to join the University mission, as
well as the sections of a new iron steamer intended for the navigation
of Lake Nyassa. The name of the "Lady Nyassa" was given to the new
vessel.
The "Pioneer," with as large a portion of the vessel as she could carry,
accompanied by two of the "Gorgon's" paddle-box boats, steamed off for
Ruo on the 10th of February. Captain Wilson, with several of his
officers and men, went on board her to render assistance. The ladies
also took their passage in her. Her progress was very slow, and six
months were expended before Shupanga was reached. Here the sections of
the "Lady Nyassa" were landed, and preparations were made to screw her
together.
Captain Wilson had kindly gone on in his boat to Ruo, taking Miss
Mackenzie and Mrs Burrup and others. On reaching Ruo, greatly to their
dismay the chief declared that no white man had come to his village.
They thence went on to Chibisa, where the sad news was received of the
death of the bishop and Mr Burrup. Leaving the ladies under care of
Dr Ramsay, the "Gorgon's" surgeon, Captain Wilson and Dr Kirk hastened
up the hills to render assistance to the survivors, they themselves
suffering greatly, and Captain Wilson almost losing his life.
The sad tale of the bishop's death has often been told. He had set off
in the hopes of rescuing some of his flock who had been kidnapped, and,
undergoing fatigue and exposure to rain far greater than his
constitution could stand, having been upset in a canoe and sleeping
afterwards in his wet clothes, had succumbed to fever when returning
with his companion, Mr Burrup, to Ruo.
The Free Church of Scotland had sent out the Reverend J. Stewart to
form a mission. Before doing so he wisely determined to survey the
country thoroughly. After doing this he returned to England. He found
mere remnants of a once dense population on the banks of the Shire, now
scattered and destroyed by famine and slave-hunting.
Captain Wilson returning to the "Pioneer," she, with the ladies on
board, steamed down to Kongone, when the whole of the mission party
except one left the country in the "Gorgon."
The fever now attacked the crew of the "Pioneer," and only one man
remained fit for duty. She, however, continued carrying up the portions
of the "Lady Nyassa" to Shupanga.
About the middle of April Mrs Livingstone was attacked by the disease.
Notwithstanding the most skilful medical aid rendered to her, her eyes
were closed in a Christian's death as the sun set on a sabbath day, the
27th of April, 1862. Her grave was placed beneath the great baobab-tree
in the spot before described, and the Reverend J. Stewart read the
burial service. There rested the daughter of the Missionary Moffat,
that Christian lady who had exercised such beneficial influence over the
rude tribes of the interior, and might, it was hoped, have renewed her
labours in the country to which she had come.
The "Lady Nyassa" was now screwed together and her stores got on board;
but, as she could not be taken to the cataract before the rains in
December, the "Pioneer" sailed for Johanna to obtain mules and oxen to
convey her by land, after she had been taken to pieces, above the falls.
To fill up the time the doctor resolved, on the return of the "Pioneer,"
to explore the Rovuma in boats. She arrived at its mouth, towed by HMS
"Orestes." Captain Gardner and several of his officers accompanied them
two days in the the gig and cutter. The water was now low; but when
filled by the rains, in many respects the Rovuma appears superior to the
Zambesi. It would probably be valuable as a highway for commerce during
three-fourths of each year.
Above Kichokomane was a fertile plain, studded with a number of deserted
villages. Its inhabitants were living on low sandbanks, though they had
left their property behind, fearing only being stolen themselves. They
showed, however, an unfriendly spirit to the white men, not
understanding their objects. The blacks assembled on the shore, and
evidently intended to attack the party as they passed the high bank, but
a stiff breeze swept the boats by. Attempts were made to persuade the
natives that the travellers had only peaceable intentions, that they
wished to be their friends, and that their countrymen bought cotton and
ivory. Notwithstanding this, these savages were not satisfied, and
their leader was seen urging them to fire. Many of them had muskets,
while others, who were armed with bows, held them with arrows ready set
to shoot. Still the doctor and his companions were exceedingly
unwilling to come to blows, and half an hour was spent, during which, at
any moment, they might have been struck by bullets or poisoned arrows.
The English assured them that they had plenty of ammunition, that they
did not wish to shed the blood of the children of the same Great Father,
and that if there was a fight, the guilt would be theirs. At last their
leader ordered them to lay down their arms, and he came, saying that the
river was theirs, and that the English must pay toll for leave to pass.
As it was better to do so than fight, the payment demanded was given,
and they promised to be friends ever afterwards.
The sail was then hoisted, and the boats proceeded up, when they were
followed by a large party, as it was supposed merely to watch them, but
without a moment's warning the savages fired a volley of musket-balls
and poisoned arrows. Providentially they were so near that six arrows
passed over their heads, and four musket-balls alone went through the
sail. Their assailants immediately bolted, and did not again appear
till the boats had got to a considerable distance. A few shots were
fired over their heads, to give them an idea of the range of the
Englishmen's rifles. They had probably expected to kill some of the
party, and then in the confusion to rob the boats.
They were more hospitably treated by a Makoa chief higher up, who had
been to Iboe, and once to Mozambique with slaves.
His people refused to receive gaily-coloured prints, having probably
been deceived by sham ones before, preferring the plain blue stuff of
which they had experience.
Another old chief, on seeing them go by, laid down his gun, and when
they landed approached them.
They proceeded up to the cataracts of the Rovuma, but finding that the
distance overland was far greater to Lake Nyassa than that by
Murchison's Cataracts on the Shire, they considered it best to take
their steamer up by that route.
After having been away a month, they reached the "Pioneer" on the 9th of
October. The ship's company had used distilled water, and not a single
case of sickness had occurred on board, while those who had been in the
boats had some slight attacks.
After this they put to sea and visited Johanna, returning to the
fever-haunted village of Quillimane. Here they were kindly entertained
by one of the few honourable Portuguese officials they met with in that
region, Colonel Nunes. He came out as a cabin-boy, and, by persevering
energy, has become the richest man on the East Coast.
On the 10th of January, 1863, the "Pioneer," with the "Lady Nyassa" in
tow, steamed up the Shire.
They soon met signs of the bandit slave-hunter Mariano's expedition.
Dead bodies floated by them in great numbers, and for scores of miles
the entire population had been swept away. The river banks, once so
populous, were all now silent. The remains of burnt villages were
everywhere seen, and oppressive silence reigned where once crowds of
eager sellers had before come off with the produce of their industry.
Their friend Tingane had been defeated, and his people killed,
kidnapped, or forced to fly. In every direction they encountered the
sight and smell of dead bodies. The skeletons of those who had fallen
in their flight lay everywhere on the roads, while the ghastly forms of
boys and girls in the last stage of starvation were seen crouching
beside the huts.
The grave of the good bishop was visited. How would his heart have bled
had he lived to witness the scenes they did!
A hippopotamus was shot, and, at the end of three days after, it
floated. As the boat was towing it, immense numbers of crocodiles
followed, and it was necessary to fire at them to keep them off. It is
said that the crocodile never eats fresh meat; indeed, the more putrid
it becomes, the better he enjoys his repast, as he can thus tear the
carcass more easily. The corpse of a boy was seen floating by. Several
crocodiles dashed at it, fighting for their prey, and in a few seconds
it disappeared. Sixty-seven of the repulsive reptiles were seen on one
bank. The natives eat the animal, but few who had witnessed the
horrible food on which they banquet would willingly feed on their flesh.
Their former companion, Mr Thornton, here rejoined them. Hearing that
the remaining members of the bishop's party were in want at Chibisa, he
volunteered to carry over a supply of goats and sheep to them. Overcome
by the fatigues of the journey, he was attacked by fever, which
terminated fatally on the 21st of April, 1863.
The whole of the once pleasant Shire valley was now a scene of
wide-spread desolation. Fearful famine had followed the slave raids,
and the sights which met their eye in every direction were
heart-rending. The ground was literally covered with human bones.
"Many had ended their career under the shade of trees, others under
projecting crags of the hills, while others lay in their huts with
closed doors, which, when opened, disclosed the mouldering corpse with a
few rags round the loins, the skull fallen off the pillow; the little
skeleton of a child that had perished first, rolled up in a mat between
two large skeletons."
Hoping that the "Lady Nyassa" might be the means of putting a check on
the slavers across the lake, they hurried on with their work. She was
unscrewed at a spot about five hundred yards below the first cataract,
and they began to make a road over the portage of forty miles, by which
she was to be carried piecemeal.
Trees had to be cut down and stones removed. The first half-mile of
road was formed up a gradual slope till two hundred feet above the river
was reached, where a sensible difference in the climate was felt.
Before much progress was made, Dr Kirk and Charles Livingstone were
seized with fever, and it was deemed absolutely necessary that they
should be sent home. Soon afterwards Dr Livingstone was himself
attacked.
The "Pioneer" meantime was roofed over and left in charge of the
trustworthy gunner, Mr Young.
One day, an empty canoe was seen floating down with a woman swimming
near it. The boat put off and brought her on board, when she was found
to have an arrow-head in the middle of her back. A native cut it out,
and, notwithstanding the fearful character of the wound, being fed
liberally by Mr Young, she recovered.
On the 16th of June the remaining members of the expedition started for
the upper cataracts.
Cotton of superior quality was seen dropping off the bushes, with no one
to gather it.
The huts in several villages were found entire, with mortars and stones
for pounding and grinding corn, empty corn safes and kitchen utensils,
water and beer-pots untouched, but the doors were shut, as if the
inhabitants had gone to search for roots or fruits and had never
returned; while in others, skeletons were seen of persons who died
apparently while endeavouring to reach something to allay the gnawings
of hunger.
Several journeys had been made over the portage, when, on returning to
the ship on the 2nd of July, they received a despatch from Earl Russell,
directing the return home of the expedition.
Considering the utter devastation caused by the slave-hunting, and the
secret support given by the Portuguese officials to the slave-traders,
notwithstanding the protestations of their government that they wished
to put an end to the trade, it was impossible not to agree in the wisdom
of this determination.
Arrangements therefore were made to screw the "Lady Nyassa" together
again, as the "Pioneer" could not move till the floods in December. In
the mean time it was determined to make another trip to the lake in a
boat to be carried overland past the cataracts.
The same scenes were witnessed as before. Wild animals had taken
possession of the ruins of a large village in which on their previous
visit the inhabitants had been living in peace and plenty.
They had no idea, having before kept closer to the river, of the number
of villages, always apparently selected with a view to shade, existing
in that region, all of which were now deserted.
They at length reached a region which had hitherto escaped, where the
people welcomed them with the greatest cordiality, and were willing to
spare the small amount of food they had remaining for themselves. But
even here news of war soon reached them, and they found that a tribe of
Zulus, the Mazitu, were ravaging the country, and that the inhabitants
were only safe within their stockades. They soon encountered men and
women carrying grain towards these fortifications, and soon they came
upon dead bodies, first one and then another, lying in postures assumed
in mortal agony such as no painter can produce.
On their arrival at Chinsamba's stockade, they were told that the Mazitu
had been repulsed thence the day before, and the sad sight of the
numerous bodies of the slain showed the truth of the report. The
marauders had, however, carried off large numbers of women laden with
corn, and, on being repulsed, cut off the ears of a male prisoner and
sent him back, saying that they meant to return for the corn they had
left, in a month or two.
Chinsamba urged them not to proceed to the north-west, where the Mazitu
had occupied the whole region, and they accordingly remained with him
till the 5th of September.
After this they visited Chia Lakelet. On their way they met men and
women eagerly reaping the corn in haste, to convey it to the stockades,
while so much was found scattered along the paths by the Mazitu and the
fugitives that some women were winnowing it from the sand. Dead bodies
and burned villages showed that they were close upon the heels of the
invaders. Among the reeds on the banks of the lake was seen a
continuous village of temporary huts in which the people had taken
refuge from their invaders.
On visiting the village of an Arab chief, Juma, at Kota Bay, on the 10th
of September, they found him engaged with his people in building a large
dhow, or Arab vessel, fifty feet long and twelve broad. They offered to
purchase the craft, but he refused to sell it for any amount. It was
very evident that she was to be engaged for carrying slaves across the
lake.
They now regretted the attempt to carry an iron vessel overland, as a
wooden one might have been built at much less cost on the banks of the
lake, and in a shorter time than the transit of the "Lady Nyassa" would
have occupied.
Another extensive and interesting journey was taken in the neighbourhood
of the lake, and, on their return along the shores, they found the reeds
still, occupied by the unhappy fugitives, who were already suffering
fearfully from famine. Numbers of newly-made graves showed that many
had already perished, and others had more the appearance of human
skeletons than living beings.
Altogether in this expedition they travelled seven hundred and sixty
miles in a straight line, averaging about fifteen miles a day, and they
reached the ship on the 1st of November, where all were found in good
health and spirits. They were visited on board by an Ajawa chief named
Kapeni, who asserted that he and his people would gladly receive the
associates of Bishop Mackenzie as their teachers. It showed that he and
his people had not been offended at the check which the bishop had given
to their slaving, their consciences telling them that the course he had
pursued was right.
About the middle of December news reached them of the arrival of the
successor of Bishop Mackenzie, but that gentleman, after spending a few
months on the top of a mountain as high as Ben Nevis, at the mouth of
the Shire, where there were few or no people to be taught, returned
home, while six of the boys who had been reared by Bishop Mackenzie had
been deserted and exposed to the risk of falling back into heathenism.
The poor boys, however, managed to reach the ship, expressing their
sorrow that they no longer had one to look after them, remarking that
Bishop Mackenzie had a loving heart, and had been more than a father to
them.
On the 19th of January, 1864, the Shire suddenly rising, the "Pioneer"
was once more got underway; but, her rudder being injured, she was
delayed, and did not reach Morambala till the 2nd of February. Here
they received on board about thirty orphan boys and girls, and a few
helpless widows who had been attached to Bishop Mackenzie's mission, and
who could not be abandoned without bringing odium on the English name.
The difference between shipping slaves and receiving these on board
struck them greatly. The moment permission to embark was given, they
all rushed into the boat, nearly swamping her in their eagerness to be
safe on the "Pioneer's" deck.
At the mouth of the Zambesi they found HM ships "Orestes" and "Ariel,"
when the former took the "Pioneer" in tow, and the latter the "Lady
Nyassa," bound for Mozambique.
After encountering a heavy storm, when the little vessels behaved
admirably, while the "Pioneer" was sent to the Cape, the "Lady Nyassa,"
under charge of Dr Livingstone, proceeded by way of Zanzibar to Bombay,
which they safely reached, though at times they thought their epitaph
would be: "Left Zanzibar on the 30th of April, 1864, and never more
heard of."
CHAPTER TWENTY THREE.
TRAVELS OF SIR SAMUEL AND LADY BAKER.
ARRIVAL IN EGYPT--CROSS THE NUBIAN DESERT--RESIDENCE AT BERBER--RESOLVES
TO LEARN ARABIC--JOURNEY TOWARDS ABYSSINIA COMMENCED--FIRST MEAL ON
HIPPO-FLESH.--A WHIRLWIND--THE RIVER SUDDENLY FILLS--CAUSE OF THE
OVERFLOW OF THE NILE--RAINY SEASON BEGINS--VISIT TO CAMP OF ABOU SINN--
RESIDENCE AT SON--ENGAGE GERMANS--HIPPOPOTAMUS HUNTING--HAMRAN ELEPHANT
HUNTERS--MODE OF HUNTING--ABOU DO A HIPPOPOTAMUS HUNTER--EXCITING ATTACK
ON A HIPPOPOTAMUS--BAKER WITNESSES ATTACK ON AN ELEPHANT BY AGGAGEERS--
RODUR'S COURAGE--THE TRAVELLERS REACH KHARTOUM.
Sir Samuel, then Mr Baker, was already an experienced traveller and a
practised sportsman, when in March, 1861, having resolved to devote his
energies to the discovery of one of the sources of the Nile, he set
forth from England to proceed up the mysterious river from its mouth,
inwardly determined to accomplish the difficult task or to die in the
attempt. He had, however, shortly before married a young wife. She,
with a devoted love and heroism seldom surpassed, notwithstanding the
dangers and difficulties she knew she must encounter, entreated to
accompany her husband, in a way not to be denied.
Leaving Cairo on the 15th of April, they sailed up the Nile to Korosko,
whence they crossed the Nubian Desert on camels, with the simoon in full
force and the heat intense to Berber. Here Mr Baker, finding his want
of Arabic a great drawback, resolved to devote a year to the study of
that language, and to spend the time in the comparatively known regions
to the north of Abyssinia, while he explored the various confluences of
the Blue Nile.
They were kindly received at Berber by Halleem Effendi, the ex-governor,
who gave them permission to pitch their tents in his gardens close to
the Nile. It was a lovely spot, thickly planted with lofty date-groves
and shady citron and lemon-trees, in which countless birds were singing
and chirruping, and innumerable ring-doves cooing in the shady palms.
The once sandy spot, irrigated by numerous water-wheels, had been thus
transformed into a fruitful garden.
Here they received visits from their host and the governor, as well as
from other officers, who expressed their astonishment when they
announced their intention of proceeding to the head of the Nile.
"Do not go on such an absurd errand," exclaimed Halleem Effendi.
"Nobody knows anything about the Nile. We do not even know the source
of the Atbara. While you remain within the territory of the Pacha of
Egypt you will be safe; but the moment you cross the frontier you will
be in the hands of savages."
Mr Baker, though receiving the advice _cum grano salis_, profited by
it.
Their host sent them daily presents of fruit by a charmingly pretty
slave girl, whose numerous mistresses requested permission to pay the
travellers a visit. In the evening a bevy of ladies approached through
the dark groves of citron-trees, so gaily dressed in silks of the
brightest dyes of yellow, blue, and scarlet, that no bouquet of flowers
could have been more gaudy. They were attended by numerous slaves, the
head of whom requested Mr Baker to withdraw while the ladies paid his
wife a visit.
Many of them she described as young and pretty. By distributing a
number of small presents among them, she completely won their
confidence.
After a week spent at this pleasant spot, they commenced their journey
on the evening of the 10th of June, attended by a guard of Turkish
soldiers, who were to act in the double capacity of escort and servants.