travellers a visit, dressed in well-washed shirts, coats, and trousers,
patent leather boots, and brown wideawakes on their heads. They had a
long conversation with their men about the wonderful things they had all
seen.
Sekeletu, who took a great fancy to Dr Kirk, offered him permission to
select any part of the country he might chose for the establishment of
an English colony. Indeed, there is sufficient uncultivated ground on
the cool unpeopled highlands for a very large population.
The Makololo are apt to get into trouble by their propensity to lift
cattle; for if their marauding is sanctioned by the chief, they do not
look upon it as dishonourable. This custom must be put a stop to if any
good is to be done to them, as must the gigantic evil of the slave trade
among the tribes nearer the coast.
The expedition left Sesheke on the 17th of September, 1860, convoyed by
Pitsane and Leshore. Pitsane was directed to form a hedge round the
garden at the falls on his way.
When navigating the river the canoe-men kept close to the bank during
the day for fear of being upset by the hippopotami, but at night, when
those animals are found near the shore, they sailed down the middle of
the stream.
The canoes were wretched, and a strong wind blew against them, but their
Batoka boatmen managed them with great dexterity. Some of these men
accompanied the expedition the whole way to the sea.
On their passage down the river, in approaching Kariba Rapids, they came
upon a herd of upwards of thirty hippopotami. The canoe-men were afraid
of venturing among them, asserting that there was sure to be an
ill-tempered one who would take a malignant pleasure in upsetting the
canoes. Several boys on the rocks were amusing themselves by throwing
stones at the frightened animals. One was shot, its body floating down
the current. A man hailed them from the bank, advising them to let him
pray to the Kariba gods that they might have a safe passage down the
rapids, for, without his assistance, they would certainly be drowned.
Notwithstanding, having examined the falls, seeing that canoes might be
carried down in safety, they continued their voyage. The natives were
much astonished to see them pass in safety without the aid of the
priest's intercession.
Here they found the hippopotamus which had been shot, and, taking it in
tow, told the villagers that if they would follow to their
landing-place, they should have most of the meat. The crocodiles,
however, tugged so hard at it, that they were compelled to cast it
adrift and let the current float it down. They recovered the
hippopotamus, which was cut up at the place where they landed to spend
the night. As soon as it was dark, the crocodiles attacked the portion
that was left in the water, tearing away at it and lashing about
fiercely with their tails.
A day or two afterwards they encamped near some pitfalls, in which
several buffaloes had shortly before been caught and one of the animals
had been left. During the night the wind blew directly from the dead
buffalo to their sleeping-place, and a hungry lion which came to feed on
the carcass so stirred up the putrid mass and growled so loudly over his
feast, that their slumbers were greatly disturbed.
They reached Zumbo by the 1st of November. Here their men had a scurvy
trick played them by the Banyai. The Makololo had shot a hippopotamus,
when a number of the natives came across, pretending to assist them in
rolling it ashore, and advised them to cast off the rope, saying that it
was an encumbrance. All were shouting and talking, when suddenly the
carcass disappeared in a deep hole. The Makololo jumped in after it,
one catching the tail, another a foot, but down it went, and they got
but a lean fowl instead. It floated during the night, and was found
about a mile below, on the bank. The Banyai, however, there disputed
their right to it, and, rather than quarrel, the Makololo, after taking
a small portion, wisely allowed them to remain with the rest.
Believing that there was sufficient depth of water, they ventured down
the Kebrabasa Rapids. For several miles they continued onward till, the
river narrowing, navigation became both difficult and dangerous. Two
canoes passed safely down the narrow channel with an ugly whirlpool,
caused by the water being divided by a rock in the centre. Dr
Livingstone's canoe came next, and while it appeared to be drifting
broadside into the vortex, a crash was heard, and Dr Kirk's canoe was
seen dashed against the perpendicular rock by a sudden boiling-up of the
river, which occurs at regular intervals. Dr Kirk grasped the rock and
saved himself, while his steersman, holding on to the same ledge,
preserved the canoe, but all its contents were lost, including the
doctor's notes of the journey, and botanical drawings of the fruit-trees
of the interior. After this the party, having had enough of navigation,
performed the remainder of the journey on shore.
On their march they met two large slave-trading parties on their way to
Zumbo. Among them were a number of women with ropes round their necks,
and all made fast to one long rope. They were to be sold for ivory.
Tete was reached on the 23rd of November, the expedition having been
absent rather more than six months. They were glad to find that the two
English sailors were in good health, and had behaved very well; but
their farm had been a failure. A few sheep and fowls had been left with
them: they had purchased more of the latter, and expected to have a good
supply of eggs, but they unfortunately also bought two monkeys, who ate
up all their eggs. One night a hippopotamus destroyed their vegetable
garden, the sheep ate up their cotton-plants, while the crocodiles
carried off the sheep, and the natives had stolen their fowls.
Having discovered that the natives have a mortal dread of the chameleon,
one of which animals they had on board, they made good use of their
knowledge. They had learned the market price of provisions, and
determined to pay that and no more. When the traders, therefore,
demanded a higher price and refused to leave the ship till it was paid,
the chameleon was instantly brought out of the cabin, when the natives
sprang overboard and made no further attempt to impose upon them.
The sailors had also performed a gallant act. They were aroused one
night by a fearful shriek, when they immediately pushed off in their
boat, supposing, as was found to be the case, that a crocodile had
caught a woman and was dragging her across a shallow bank. Before they
reached her, the reptile snapped off her leg. They carried her on
board, bandaged up her limb, bestowed Jack's usual remedy for all
complaints, a glass of grog, on her, and carried her to a hut in the
village. Next morning they found the bandages torn off and the poor
creature left to die, their opinion being that it had been done by her
master, to whom, as she had lost a leg, she would be of no further use,
and he did not wish the expense of keeping her.
CHAPTER TWENTY TWO.
DR. LIVINGSTONE'S EXPEDITION TO EXPLORE THE ZAMBESI, CONTINUED.
SETS OUT AGAIN--CHRISTMAS AT CHIMBA ISLAND--SENNA--DOWN THE RIVER TO
CONGO--THE "PIONEER"--ARRIVAL OF BISHOP MACKENZIE--REACHES THE ROVUMA--
BACK AGAIN AND UP THE ZAMBESI TO THE SHIRE--LIBERATION OF A PARTY OF
SLAVES--NEWS OF THE AJAWA STARTS FOR NYASSA--ENTERS THE LAKE--
DESCRIBED--A STORM ON THE NYASSA--SLAVERY--RETURNS TO THE ROVUMA--SETS
OUT WITH BISHOP MACKENZIE FOR RUO--REACHES THE ZAMBESI, AND AFTERWARDS
PROCEEDS TO THE GREAT LUABO--ARRIVAL OF MRS. LIVINGSTONE AND THE "LADY
NYASSA"--BISHOP MACKENZIE'S DEATH--EXPLORES THE ROVUMA--AN ADVENTURE
WITH THE NATIVES--VISITS JOHANNA IN THE "PIONEER"--STEAMS UP THE SHIRE--
EFFECTS OF THE SLAVE TRADE--MEETS MR. THORNTON--ATTACKED BY FEVER--MORE
OF THE SLAVE TRADE--START FOR THE UPPER CATARACTS--DESPATCHES FROM
ENGLAND--VISIT CHIA LAKELET--AN ARAB SLAVE-DHOW--LEAVES THE ZAMBESI, AND
ARRIVES AT BOMBAY.
Once more, on the 3rd of December, the leaky "Asthmatic" was got under
way, but every day fresh misfortunes happened to her, till Rae declared:
"She cannot be worse than she is, sir."
He and his mate, Hutchings, had done their best to patch her up, but her
condition was past their skill. On the morning of the 21st she grounded
on a sandbank and filled. The river rising, all that was visible the
next day was about six feet of her two masts. The property on board
was, however, saved, and the expedition spent their Christmas of 1860
encamped on the island of Chimba.
Canoes having been procured, they reached Senna on the 27th. They here
saw a large party of slaves belonging to the commandant, who had been up
to trade with Mozelekatse, carrying a thousand muskets and a large
quantity of gunpowder, and bringing back ivory, ostrich feathers, a
thousand sheep and goats, and thirty head of fine cattle, and in
addition a splendid white bull, to show that he and the traders parted
friends. The adventure, however, was a losing one to the poor
commandant: a fire had broken out in the camp, and the ostrich feathers
had been burned; the cattle had died from the bite of the _tsetse_, as
had the white bull, and six hundred of the sheep had been eaten by the
slaves, they thinking more of their own comfort than their master's
gain.
This is one of the many proofs of the clearness of slave labour.
Proceeding down the river in boats, the expedition reached Congo on the
4th of January, 1861. Here a flagstaff and a custom-house (a floorless
hut of mangrove stakes roofed with stakes) had been erected.
The garrison of the place being almost starved, the provisions of the
expedition also ran short, though they obtained game in abundance.
On the 31st the "Pioneer," the steamer which had been sent to replace
the "Asthmatic," appeared off the bar, but the bad weather prevented her
entering. At the same time two men-of-war arrived, bringing Bishop
Mackenzie at the head of the Oxford and Cambridge mission to the tribes
of the Shire and Lake Nyassa. It consisted of six Englishmen and five
coloured men from the Cape. The bishop wished at once to proceed up to
Chibisa; but the "Pioneer" was under orders to explore the Rovuma, and
it was ultimately arranged that the members of the mission should be
carried over to Johanna in the "Lyra" man-of-war, while the bishop
himself accompanied the expedition in the "Pioneer."
They reached the mouth of the Rovuma on the 25th of February. The rainy
season was already half over, and the river had fallen considerably.
The scenery was superior to that on the Zambesi.
Eight miles from the mouth the mangrove disappeared, and a beautiful
range of well-wooded hills rose on either side.
Unhappily fever broke out, and the navigation of the "Pioneer" fell to
the charge of Dr Livingstone and his companions.
The water falling rapidly, it was considered dangerous to run the risk
of detention in the river for a year, and the ship returned down to the
sea.
On their voyage back they touched at Mohilla, one of the Comoro Islands,
and from thence went on to Johanna, where they received the Bishop's
followers, and proceeded back to the Kongone. Thence they at once
directed their course up the Zambesi to the Shire. The "Pioneer," it
was found, drew too much water for the navigation of the river, and she
in consequence frequently grounded.
Among his many duties, Charles Livingstone was engaged in collecting
specimens of cotton, and upwards of three hundred pounds were thus
obtained, at a price of less than a penny a pound, which showed that
cotton of a superior quality could be raised by native labour alone, and
that but for the slave trade a large amount might be raised in the
country.
Wherever they went they gained the confidence of the people, and
hitherto the expedition had been eminently successful. No sooner,
however, did they come in contact with the Portuguese slave trade than
sad reverses commenced. Marauding parties of the Ajawa were desolating
the land, and a gang had crossed the river with slaves. Manjanga had
gone away just before they got the ship up to Chibisa; but his deputy
was civil, and supplied them with carriers to convey the bishop's goods
up the country.
They halted at the village of their old friend, Mpende, who supplied
them with carriers, and informed them that a slave party on its way to
Tete would soon pass through his village. They consulted together.
Should they liberate the slaves? By a bold stroke they might possibly
put a stop to the slave trade, which had followed in their footsteps. A
few minutes afterwards a slave party, consisting of a long line of
manacled men, women, and children, escorted by black drivers armed with
muskets, adorned with articles of finery, and blowing horns, marched by
them with a triumphant air. Directly, however, the rascals caught sight
of the English, they darted off into the forest, with the exception of
the leader, who was seized by the Makololo. He proved to be a slave of
the late commandant of Tete, and was well-known to them. He declared
that he had bought the slaves; but directly his hands were released he
darted off. The captives now, kneeling down, expressed their thanks by
clapping their hands. Knives were soon busily at work setting free the
women and children. It was more difficult to liberate the men, who had
each his neck in the fork of a stout stick, six or seven feet long, and
kept in by an iron rod riveted at both ends across the throat. A saw,
produced from the bishop's baggage, performed the work. The men could
scarcely believe what was said, when they were told to take the meal
they were carrying and cook breakfast for themselves and children. Many
of the latter were about five years of age and under. One of them
observed to the men: "Those others tied and starved us; you cut the
ropes, and tell us to eat! What sort of people are you?"
Two women had been shot the previous day for attempting to untie the
thongs, and another had her infant's brains knocked out because she
could not at the same time carry her load and it. The rest were told
that this was done to prevent them from attempting to escape. The
bishop was not present, having gone to bathe just before; but when he
returned, he approved of what had been done.
Eighty-four persons, chiefly women and children, were thus liberated;
and being told that they might go where they liked, they decided on
remaining with the English. The men willingly carried the bishop's
goods.
Eight others were freed in a hamlet on the road; but another party, with
nearly a hundred slaves, though followed by Dr Kirk and four Makololo,
escaped. Six more captives were soon afterwards liberated, and two
slave-dealers were detained for the night, but being carelessly watched
by two of the bishop's black men, who had volunteered to stand guard
over them, they escaped. The next day fifty more slaves were freed at
another village and comfortably clothed.
At Chigunda a Manjanga chief had invited the bishop to settle in his
country near Magomero, adding that there was room enough for both. This
spontaneous invitation seemed to decide the bishop on the subject.
Marching forward, on the 22nd news was received that the Ajawa were
near, burning villages; and at once the doctor and his companions
advanced to seek an interview with these scourges of the country. On
their way they met crowds of Manjangas flying, having left all their
property and food behind them. Numerous fields of Indian corn were
passed, but there was no one to reap them. All the villages were
deserted. One, where on the previous visit a number of men had been
seen peacefully weaving cloth, was burned, and the stores of grain
scattered over the plain and along the paths. The smoke of burning
villages was seen in front, and triumphant shouts, mingled with the wail
of the Manjanga women lamenting over the slain, reached their ears. The
bishop knelt and engaged in prayer, and on rising, a long line of Ajawa
warriors with their captives was seen. In a short time the travellers
were surrounded, the savages shooting their poisoned arrows and dancing
hideously. Some had muskets, but, on shots being fired at them, they
ran off. The main body in the mean time decamped with the captives, two
only of whom escaped and joined their new friends. Most of the party
proposed going at once to the rescue of the captive Manjanga; but this
Dr Livingstone opposed, believing that it would be better for the
bishop to wait the effect of the check given to the slave-hunters. It
was evident that the Ajawa were instigated by the Portuguese agents from
Tete. It was possible that they might by persuasion be induced to
follow the better course, but, from their long habit of slaving for the
Quillimane market, this appeared doubtful. The bishop consulted Dr
Livingstone as to whether, should the Manjangas ask his assistance
against the Ajawa, it would be his duty to give it? The reply was: "Do
not interfere in native quarrels." Leaving the members of the mission
encamped on a beautiful spot, surrounded by stately trees, near the
clear little stream of Magomero, the expedition returned to the ship to
prepare for their journey to Lake Nyassa.
On the 6th of August, 1861, the two doctors and Charles Livingstone
started in a four-oared gig, with one white sailor and twenty Makololo,
for Nyassa. Carriers were easily engaged to convey the boat past the
forty miles of the Murchison Cataracts. Numberless volunteers came
forward, and the men of one village transported it to the next. They
passed the little Lake of Pamalombe, about ten miles long and five
broad, surrounded thickly by papyrus. Myriads of mosquitos showed the
presence of malaria, and they hastened by it.
Again launching their boat, they proceeded up the river, and entered the
lake on the 2nd of September, greatly refreshed by the cool air which
came off its wide expanse of water. The centre appeared to be of a deep
blue, while the shallow water along the edge was indicated by its light
green colour. A little from the shore the water was from nine to
fifteen fathoms in depth, but round a grand mountain promontory no
bottom could be obtained with their lead-line of thirty-five fathoms.
The lake was estimated to be about two hundred miles long and from
twenty to sixty broad.
The lake appeared to be surrounded by mountains, but on the west they
were merely the edges of high table-land.
It is visited by sudden and tremendous storms. One morning the sea
suddenly rose around them, preventing them from advancing or receding,
as the tremendous surf on the beach would have knocked their light boat
to pieces, while the waves came rolling on in threes, their crests
broken into spray. Had one of them struck the boat, nothing could have
saved her from being swamped. For six hours they remained at anchor a
little from the shore, thus exposed to the fury of the gale. The crew
became sea-sick and unable to keep the boat's head to the sea, while
some of their party who had remained on shore watched them, the natives
every moment exclaiming: "They are lost! they are all dead!"
After this, every night they hauled the boat up on the beach; and, had
it not been supposed that these storms were peculiar to one season, they
would have given the Nyassa the name of the "Lake of Storms."
A dense population exists on the shores of the lake, some being a tribe
of Zulus who came from the south some years ago. They own large herds
of cattle, and are on the increase by uniting other people to
themselves. The marshy spots are tenanted by flocks of ducks, geese,
cranes, herons, and numerous other birds. The people cultivate the
soil, growing large quantities of rice, sweet potatoes, maize, and
millet. Those at the north end reap a curious harvest. Clouds of what
appeared to be smoke rising from miles of burning grass were seen in the
distance. The appearance was caused by countless millions of midges.
As the voyagers' boat passed through them, eyes and mouth had to be kept
closed. The people collect these insects by night, and boil them into
thick cakes, to be eaten as a relish. One of the cakes, which tasted
like salted locusts, was presented to the doctor.
Abundance of fish were caught, some with nets and others with hook and
line. Women were seen fishing, with babies on their backs.
Enormous crocodiles were seen, but, as they can obtain abundance of
fish, they seldom attack men. When, however, its proper food is scarce,
the crocodile, as is always the case, becomes very dangerous.
The lake tribes appear to be open-handed, and, whenever a net was drawn,
fish was invariably offered. On one occasion the inhabitants, on their
arrival, took out their seine, dragged it, and made their visitors a
present of the entire haul. The chiefs treated them also with
considerable kindness. One at the north of Marenga, who was living in a
stockade in a forest surrounded by a wide extent of country, which he
owned, made them beautiful presents. The doctor admiring an iron
bracelet studded with copper which the chief wore, he took it off and
presented to him, while his wife did the same with hers.
Wherever the slave trade is carried on, the people are dishonest and
uncivil, and when they found that the English did not come to buy
slaves, they immediately put on a supercilious air, and sometimes
refused to sell them food. At one of these places a party of thieves
stole into the camp and carried off most of their goods, no one awaking,
though their rifles and revolvers were all ready. The cloth, having
been used for pillows, escaped, but nearly all their clothing was lost,
and even their note-books and specimens.
On the high lands at the northern end, a tribe of Zulus, known as the
Mazitu, make sudden swoops on the villages of the plains, and carry off
the inhabitants and burn villages; and putrid bodies slain by Mazitu
spears were seen in all directions. In consequence of this the land
party, composed of blacks, were afraid of proceeding, and Dr
Livingstone accordingly landed to accompany them. While he struck
inland to go round a mountain, the boat pursued her course; but a fresh
gale compelled her to run in-shore. On continuing her voyage, a number
of armed Mazitu were seen on a small island, with several large canoes
belonging to them. It was evident that it was a nest of lake pirates.
Further on they met a still larger band, and the voyagers were ordered
to come on shore. On refusing, a number of canoes chased them, one with
nine paddlers persevering a considerable time, till a good breeze
enabled the gig to get away from them. This circumstance caused great
anxiety about Dr Livingstone.
The boat party having sailed on for fifteen miles northward, he was
still nowhere to be seen, and they therefore resolved to return.
Another gale, however, compelled them to put into a harbour, where a
number of wretched fugitives from the slave trade, who had crossed from
the opposite shore, were found; but the ordinary inhabitants had been
swept off by the Mazitu. In their deserted gardens cotton of a fine
quality, with staple an inch and a half long, was seen growing, some of
the plants deserving to be ranked with trees.
On returning, their former pursuers tried to induce them to come on
shore.
Four days passed before Dr Livingstone with two of his party discovered
them. He had in the mean time fallen in with the Mazitu, who were armed
with spears and shields, and their heads fantastically dressed with
feathers. By his usual courage and determination he prevented them from
attacking him. When they demanded presents, he told them his goods were
in the boat; and when they insisted on having a coat, the Makololo
enquired how many of the party they had killed, that they thus began to
divide the spoil; and at last, suspecting that he had support at hand,
they took to their heels.
Numerous elephants, surprisingly tame, were seen on the borders of the
lake even close to the villages, and hippopotami swarmed in all the
creeks and lagoons. Several were shot for food during the journey.
Sometimes food was thus abundant; at others, a few sardines served for
dinner.
The slave trade on the lake was being pursued with fearful activity. A
dhow had been built by two Arabs, who were running her regularly,
crowded with slaves, across its waters. Part of the captives are
carried to the Portuguese slave-exporting town of Iboe, while others go
to Kilwa.