former, though almost black, declared that his colour was of a light
brown. He spoke very bad English, was excessively conceited, and
irascible to a degree. Accustomed to the easy-going expeditions on the
Nile, he had _no_ taste for the rough sort of work his new master had
undertaken.
The journey across the desert tract was performed on donkeys, the
luggage being carried on camels or dromedaries.
In two days they reached the junction of the Atbara river with the Nile.
Here, crossing a broad surface of white sand, which at that season
formed the dry bed of the river, they encamped near a plantation of
water-melons, with which they refreshed themselves and their tired
donkeys. The river was here never less than four hundred yards in
width, with banks nearly thirty feet deep. Not only was it partially
dry, but so clear was the sand-bed that the reflection of the sun was
almost unbearable.
They travelled along the banks of the river for some days, stopping by
the side of the pools which still remained. Many of these pools were
full of crocodiles and hippopotami. One of these river-horses had
lately killed the proprietor of a melon-garden, who had attempted to
drive the creature from his plantation. Mr Baker had the satisfaction
of killing one of the monsters in shallow water. It was quickly
surrounded by Arabs, who hauled it on shore, and, on receiving his
permission to take the meat, in an instant a hundred knives were at
work, the men fighting to obtain the most delicate morsels. He and his
wife breakfasted that morning on hippopotamus flesh, which was destined
to be their general food during their journey among the Abyssinian
tributaries of the Nile.
Game abounded, and he shot gazelles and hippopotami sufficient to keep
the whole camp well supplied with meat.
On the 23rd of June they were nearly suffocated by a whirlwind that
buried everything in the tents several inches in dust.
The heat was intense; the night, however, was cool and pleasant. About
half-past eight, as Mr Baker lay asleep, he fancied that he heard a
rumbling like distant thunder. The low uninterrupted roll increasing in
volume, presently a confusion of voices arose from the Arabs' camp, his
men shouting as they rushed through the darkness: "The river! the
river!"
Mahomet exclaimed that the river was coming down, and that the supposed
distant roar was the approach of water. Many of the people, who had
been sleeping on the clean sand of the river's bed, were quickly
awakened by the Arabs, who rushed down the steep bank to save the skulls
of two hippopotami which were exposed to dry.
The sound of the torrent, as it rushed by amid the darkness, and the
men, dripping with wet, dragging their heavy burdens up the bank, told
that the great event had occurred. The river had arrived like a thief
in the night.
The next morning, instead of the barren sheet of clear white sand with a
fringe of withered bush and trees upon its borders, cutting the yellow
expanse of desert, a magnificent stream, the noble Atbara river flowed
by, some five hundred yards in width, and from fifteen to twenty feet in
depth. Not a drop of rain, however, had fallen; but the current gave
the traveller a clue to one portion of the Nile mystery. The rains were
pouring down in Abyssinia--these were the sources of the Nile.
The rainy season, however, at length began, during which it was
impossible to travel.
The Arabs during that period migrate to the drier regions in the north.
On their way they arrived in the neighbourhood of the camp of the great
Sheikh Achmet Abou Sinn, to whom Mr Baker had a letter of introduction.
Having sent it forward by Mahomet, in a short time the sheikh appeared,
attended by several of his principal people. He was mounted on a
beautiful snow-white _hygeen_, his appearance being remarkably dignified
and venerable. Although upwards of eighty years old, he was as erect as
a lance, and of herculean stature; a remarkably arched nose, eyes like
an eagle's, beneath large, shaggy, but perfectly white eyebrows, while a
snow-white beard of great thickness descended below the middle of his
breast. He wore a large white turban, and a white cashmere robe
reaching from the throat to the ankles. He was indeed the perfect
picture of a desert patriarch. He insisted on the travellers
accompanying him to his camp, and would hear of no excuses. Ordering
Mahomet to have their baggage repacked, he requested them to mount two
superb _hygeens_ with saddle-cloths of blue and purple sheep-skins, and
they set out with their venerable host, followed by his wild and
splendidly-mounted attendants.
As they approached the camp they were suddenly met by a crowd of mounted
men, armed with swords and shields, some on horses, others on _hygeens_.
These were Abou Sinn's people, who had assembled to do honour to their
chief's guests. Having formed in lines parallel with the approach of
their guests, they galloped singly at full speed across the line of
march, flourishing their swords over their heads, and reining in their
horses so as to bring them on their haunches by the sudden halt. This
performance being concluded, they fell into line behind the party.
Declining the sheikh's invitation to spend two or three months at his
camp, Mr and Mrs Baker travelled on to the village of Sofi, where they
proposed remaining during the rainy season.
It was situated near the banks of the Atbara, on a plateau of about
twenty acres, bordered on either side by two deep ravines, while below
the steep cliff in front of the village flowed the river Atbara.
Their tents were pitched on a level piece of ground just outside the
village, where the grass, closely nibbled by the goats, formed a natural
lawn.
Here huts were built and some weeks were pleasantly spent. Mr Baker
found an abundance of sport, sometimes catching enormous fish, at others
shooting birds to supply his larder, but more frequently hunting
elephants, rhinoceros, giraffes, and other large game.
He here found a German named Florian, a stone-mason by trade, who had
come out attached to the Austrian mission at Khartoum, but preferring a
freer life than that city afforded, had become a great hunter. Mr
Baker, thinking that he would prove useful, engaged him as a hunter, and
he afterwards took into his service Florian's black servant Richarn, who
became his faithful attendant. A former companion of Florian's, Johann
Schmidt, soon afterwards arrived, and was also engaged by Mr Baker to
act as his lieutenant in his proposed White Nile expedition. Poor
Florian, however, was killed by a lion, and Schmidt and Richarn alone
accompanied him.
Mr Baker's skill as a sportsman was frequently called into play by the
natives, to drive off the elephants and hippopotami which infested their
plantations. One afternoon he was requested to shoot a savage old bull
hippopotamus which had given chase to several people. Accompanied by
Mrs Baker he rode to the spot, about two miles off, where the
hippopotamus lived in a deep and broad portion of the river. The old
hippopotamus was at home.
"The river, about two hundred and fifty yards wide, had formed by an
acute bend a deep hole. In the centre of this was a sandbank just below
the surface. Upon this shallow bed the hippopotamus was reposing. On
perceiving the party he began to snort and behave himself in a most
absurd manner, by shaking his head and leaping half way out of the
water. Mr Baker had given Bacheet, one of his attendants, a pistol,
and had ordered him to follow on the opposite bank. He now directed him
to fire several shots at the hippopotamus, in order if possible to drive
the animal towards him. The hippo, a wicked, solitary, old bull,
returned the insult by charging towards Bacheet with a tremendous
snorting, which sent him scrambling up the steep bank in a panic. This
gave the brute confidence; and the sportsman, who had hitherto remained
concealed, called out according to Arabic custom: `_Hasinth! hasinth_!'
the Arabic for hippopotamus. The brute, thinking no doubt that he might
as well drive the intruder away, gave a loud snort, sank, and quickly
reappeared about a hundred yards from him. On this Mr Baker ordered
Bacheet to shoot to attract the animal's attention. As the hippopotamus
turned his head, Mr Baker took a steady shot, aiming behind the ear,
and immediately the saucy old hippo turned upon his back and rolled
about, lashing the still pool into waves, until at length he
disappeared."
His intention of engaging a party of the Hamran Arabs, celebrated as
hunters, to accompany him in his explorations of the Abyssinian rivers
having become known, several of these men made their appearance at Son.
They are distinguished from the other tribes of Arabs by an extra length
of hair, worn parted down the centre and arranged in long curls. They
are armed with swords and shields, the former having long, straight,
two-edged blades, with a small cross for the handle, similar to the
long, straight, cross-handled blades of the crusaders. Their shields,
formed of rhinoceros, giraffe, or elephant-hide, are either round or
oval. Their swords, which they prize highly, are kept as sharp as
razors. The length of the blade is about three feet, and the handle six
inches long. It is secured to the wrist by a leathern strap, so that
the hunter cannot by any accident be disarmed.
These men go in chase of all wild animals of the desert; some are noted
as expert hippopotamus slayers, but the most celebrated are the
Aggageers, or elephant hunters. The latter attack the huge animal
either on horseback, or on foot when they cannot afford to purchase
steeds. In the latter case, two men alone hunt together. They follow
the tracks of an elephant which they contrive to overtake about noon,
when the animal is either asleep or extremely listless and easy to
approach. Should the elephant be asleep, one of the hunters will creep
towards its head, and with a single blow sever the trunk stretched on
the ground, the result being its death within an hour from bleeding.
Should the animal be awake, they will creep up from behind, and give a
tremendous cut at the back sinew of the hind leg, immediately disabling
the monster. It is followed up by a second cut on the remaining leg,
when the creature becomes their easy prey.
When hunting on horseback, generally four men form a party, and they
often follow the tracks of a herd from their drinking-place for upwards
of twenty miles.
Mr Baker accompanied them on numerous hunting expeditions, and
witnessed the wonderful courage and dexterity they displayed.
After spending three months at Son, he set out for the Settite River, he
and his wife crossing the Atbara River on a raft formed of his large
circular sponging bath supported by eight inflated skins secured to his
bedstead.
A party of the Aggageers now joined him. Among them was Abou Do, a
celebrated old hippopotamus hunter, who, with his spear of trident shape
in hand, might have served as a representative of Neptune. The old Arab
was equally great at elephant hunting, and had on the previous day
exhibited his skill, having assisted to kill several elephants. He now
divested himself of all his clothing, and set out, taking his harpoon in
hand, in search of hippopotami.
This weapon consisted of a steel blade about eleven inches long and
three-quarters of an inch in width, with a single barb. To it was
attached a strong rope twenty feet long, with a float as large as a
child's head at the extremity. Into the harpoon was fixed a piece of
bamboo ten feet long, around which the the rope was twisted, while the
buoy was carried on the hunter's left hand.
After proceeding a couple of miles, a herd of hippopotami were seen in a
pool below a rapid surrounded by rocks. He, however, remarking that
they were too wide-awake to be attacked, continued his course down the
stream till a smaller pool was reached. Here the immense head of a
hippopotamus was seen, close to a perpendicular rock that formed a wall
to the river. The old hunter, motioning the travellers to remain quiet,
immediately plunged into the stream and crossed to the opposite bank,
whence, keeping himself under shelter, he made his way directly towards
the spot beneath which the hippopotamus was lying. "Stealthily he
approached, his long thin arm raised, with the harpoon ready to strike.
The hippopotamus, however, had vanished, but far from exhibiting
surprise, the veteran hunter remaining standing on the sharp ledge,
unchanged in attitude. No figure of bronze could be more rigid than
that of the old river king, as he thus stood, his left foot advanced,
his right-hand grasping the harpoon above his head, and his left the
loose coil of rope attached to the buoy."
"Three minutes thus passed, when suddenly the right arm of the statue
descended like lightening, and the harpoon shot perpendicularly into the
pool with the speed of an arrow. In an instant an enormous pair of open
jaws appeared, followed by the ungainly head and form of a furious
hippopotamus, who, springing half out of the water, lashed the river
into foam as he charged straight up the violent rapids. With
extraordinary power he breasted the descending stream, gaining a footing
in the rapids where they were about five feet deep, thus making his way,
till, landing from the river, he started at full gallop along the
shingly bed, and disappeared in the thorny jungle. No one would have
supposed that so unwieldy an animal could have exhibited such speed, and
it was fortunate for old Neptune that he was secure on the high ledge of
rock, for had he been on the path of the infuriated beast, there would
have been an end of Abou Do."
The old man rejoined his companions, when Mr Baker proposed going in
search of the animal. The hunter, however, explained that the
hippopotamus would certainly return after a short time to the water. In
a few minutes the animal emerged from the jungle and descended at full
trot into the pool where the other hippopotami had been seen, about half
a mile off. Upon reaching it, the party were immediately greeted by the
hippopotamus, who snorted and roared and quickly dived, and the float
was seen running along the surface, showing his course as the cork of a
trimmer does that of a pike when hooked. Several times the hippo
appeared, but invariably faced them, and, as Mr Baker could not obtain
a favourable shot, he sent the old hunter across the stream to attract
the animal's attention. The hippo, turning towards the hunter, afforded
Mr Baker a good chance, and he fired a steady shot behind the ear. The
crack of the ball, in the absence of any splash from the bullet, showed
him that the hippopotamus was hit, while the float remained stationary
upon the surface, marking the spot where the grand old bull lay dead
beneath. The hunter obtaining assistance from the camp, the
hippopotamus, as well as another which had been shot, were hauled on
shore. The old bull measured fourteen feet two inches, and the head was
three feet one inch from the front of the ear to the edge of the lip, in
a straight line.
Though hippopotami are generally harmless, solitary old bulls are
sometimes extremely vicious, and frequently attack canoes without
provocation.
Many of the elephant hunts in which Mr Baker engaged were exciting in
the highest degree, and fraught with no small amount of danger.
Among the Aggageers was a hunter, Rodur Sherrif, who, though his arm had
been withered in consequence of an accident, was as daring as any of his
companions.
The banks of the Royan had been reached, where, a camp having been
formed, Mr Baker and his companions set out in search of elephants. A
large bull elephant was discovered drinking. The country around was
partly woody, and the ground strewed with fragments of rocks, ill
adapted for riding. The elephant had made a desperate charge,
scattering the hunters in all directions, and very nearly overtaking Mr
Baker. He then retreated into a stronghold composed of rocks and uneven
ground, with a few small leafless trees growing in it. The scene must
be described in the traveller's own words. "Here the elephant stood
facing the party like a statue, not moving a muscle beyond the quick and
restless action of the eyes, which were watching on all sides. Two of
the Aggageers getting into its rear by a wide circuit, two others, one
of whom was the renowned Rodur Sherrif, mounted on a thoroughly-trained
bay mare, rode slowly towards the animal. Coolly the mare advanced
towards her wary antagonist until within about nine yards of its head.
The elephant never moved. Not a word was spoken. The perfect stillness
was at length broken by a snort from the mare, who gazed intently at the
elephant, as though watching for the moment of attack. Rodur coolly sat
with his eyes fixed upon those of the elephant.
"With a shrill scream the enormous creature then suddenly dashed on him
like an avalanche. Round went the mare as though upon a pivot, away
over rocks and stones, flying like a gazelle, with the monkey-like form
of Rodur Sherrif leaning forward and looking over his left shoulder as
the elephant rushed after him. For a moment it appeared as if the mare
must be caught. Had she stumbled, all would have been lost, but she
gained in the race after a few quick bounding strides, and Rodur, still
looking behind him, kept his distance, so close, however, to the
creature, that its outstretched trunk was within a few feet of the
mare's tail.
"The two Aggageers who had kept in the rear now dashed forward close to
the hind quarters of the furious elephant, who, maddened with the
excitement, heeded nothing but Rodur and his mare. When close to the
tail of the elephant, the sword of one of the Aggageers flashed from its
sheath as, grasping his trusty blade, he leaped nimbly to the ground,
while his companion caught the reins of his horse. Two or three bounds
on foot, with the sword clutched in both hands, and he was close behind
the elephant. A bright glance shone like lightning as the sun struck on
the descending steel. This was followed by a dull crack, the sword
cutting through skin and sinew, and sinking deep into the bone about
twelve inches above the foot. At the next stride the elephant halted
dead short in the midst of his tremendous charge. The Aggageer who had
struck the blow vaulted into the saddle with his naked sword in hand.
At the same moment Rodur turned sharp round and, again facing the
elephant, stooped quickly from the saddle to pick up from the ground a
handful of dirt, which he threw into the face of the vicious animal,
that once more attempted to rush upon him. It was impossible: the foot
was dislocated and turned up in front like an old shoe. In an instant
the other Aggageer leaped to the ground, and again the sharp sword
slashed the remaining leg."
Nothing could be more perfect than the way in which these daring hunters
attack their prey. "It is difficult to decide which to admire most--
whether the coolness and courage of him who led the elephant, or the
extraordinary skill and activity of the Aggageer who dealt the fatal
blow."
Thus, hunting and exploring, Mr Baker, accompanied by his heroic wife,
visited the numerous river-beds which carry the rains of the mountainous
regions of Abyssinia into the Blue Nile, and are the cause of the
periodical overflowing of the mighty stream, while its ordinary current
is fed from other far-distant sources, towards one of which the
traveller now prepared to direct his steps.
Speke and Grant were at this time making their way from Zanzibar, across
untrodden ground, towards Gondokoro.
An expedition under Petherick, the ivory-trader, sent to assist them,
had met with misfortune and been greatly delayed, and Mr Baker
therefore hoped to reach the equator, and perhaps to meet the Zanzibar
explorers somewhere about the sources of the Nile.
Proceeding along the banks of the Blue Nile, Mr and Mrs Baker reached
Khartoum on the 11th of June, 1862. A beautiful view met their sight as
they gazed across the waters of the Nile. "The morning sun was shining
on this capital of the Soudan provinces; the dark green foliage of the
groves of date-trees contrasted exquisitely with the numerous buildings
of many colours which lined the margin of the river, while long lines of
vessels with tapering spars gave light to the scene. But alas! this
beauty soon vanished, both the sight and smell being outraged grievously
as they entered the filthy and miserable town."
CHAPTER TWENTY FOUR.
TRAVELS OF SIR SAMUEL AND LADY BAKER, CONTINUED.
PREPARATIONS FOR JOURNEY TO THE SOUTH--DIFFICULTIES--THE SHILLOOKS--THE
NUEHR--INFORMATION ABOUT THE SLAVE TRADE--THE KYTCH--THE SACRED
BULLOCK--ARRIVE AT GONDOKORO--ATTEMPTS TO SHOOT BAKER--HIS ESCORT
MUTINY--HE MEETS SPEKE AND GRANT--TREACHERY AMONG HIS SERVANTS--
ENCOUNTER WITH SLAVE-TRADERS--WINS OVER IBRAHIM, AND ARRIVES AT
TARRANGOLLE--THE LATOOKA VICTORY--MISBEHAVIOUR OF THE TURKS, AND
THREATENED ATTACK BY THE NATIVES--A FUNERAL DANCE--RETURNS TO OBBO--
FEVER--SETS OUT FOR KARUMA--REACHES KARUMA FALLS--KAMRASI--PROCEEDS TO
THE LAKE--A STRANGE RECEPTION--ILLNESS OF MRS. BAKER--REACH THE VILLAGE
OF PARKANI--ARRIVE AT THE LAKE WHICH BAKER CALLED ALBERT NYANZA--SURVEYS
IT--REACHES MAGIMGO--PROCEEDS TO THE MURCHISON FALLS--RETURN TO
MAGIMGO--DESERTED BY HIS GUIDE AND CARRIERS--STARVATION--THE GUIDE
REAPPEARS, AND THEY ARRIVE AT KAMRASI'S CAMP--AN INVASION BY FOWOOKAS--
MR. BAKER PREVENTS AN ATTACK--HE AT LAST SETS OFF WITH TURKISH TRADERS,
AND ARRIVES AT SHOOA--A MARCH THROUGH THE BARI--REACH GONDOKORO--VOYAGE
DOWN THE NILE--WELCOMED AT KHARTOUM--A DUST-STORM--CONTINUING THEIR
VOYAGE, REACH BERBER, AND AT LENGTH ARRIVE IN ENGLAND--RETURNS TO
EGYPT--ORGANISES AN EXPEDITION TO CONVEY STEAMERS UP THE NILE FOR LAKE
NYANZA, TO OPPOSE THE SLAVE TRADE.
At Khartoum Mr and Mrs Baker spent some months to recruit, occupying
the house of the British Consul, who was then absent.
On the 17th of December their preparations for a fresh start were
completed. Three vessels had been engaged, and were laden with large
quantities of stores, with four hundred bushels of corn, and twenty-nine
transport animals, including camels, horses, and donkeys. Their party
consisted of ninety-six souls, including Johann Schmidt and the faithful
black Richarn, and forty-nine well-armed men.
Khartoum was a nest of slave-traders, who looked with jealous eyes upon
every stranger venturing within the precincts of their holy land, and,
as Mr Baker observes: "sacred to slavery and to every abomination and
villainy that man can commit."
The Turkish officers pretended to discountenance slavery; at the same
time every house was full of slaves, and Egyptian officers received a
portion of their pay in slaves. The authorities, therefore, looked upon
the proposed exploration of the White Nile by a European traveller as
likely to interfere with their perquisites, and threw every obstacle in
his way.
As the government of Soudan refused to supply him with properly-trained
soldiers, the only men he could get for an escort were the miserable
cut-throats of Khartoum, who had been accustomed all their lives to
murder and pillage in the White Nile trade; yet, such as they were, he
was compelled to put up with them, though he would undoubtedly have done
better had he gone without such an escort.
The voyage alone to Gondokoro, the navigable limit of the Nile, was
likely to occupy about fifty days, so that a large supply of provisions
was necessary.
Difficulties were met with from the very beginning. The vessel's yards
were continually being carried away.
Poor Johann, who, though he had long been suffering, insisted on
accompanying his employer, died a short time after the commencement of
the voyage.