making his way from Sackatoo to Badagarry after the death of Clapperton,
and the attempt he had made of his own accord to follow the course of
the Niger to the sea, pointed him out to the British Government as a fit
person to lead another expedition with that object in view. He at once
accepted the offer made to him, and was allowed to take his younger
brother John, a well-educated and intelligent young man, as his
companion. They were directed to proceed from Badagarry to Boussa on
the Niger, where Mungo Park was wrecked and lost his life, and down to
which he had traced the stream from the neighbourhood of Timbuctoo.
Thence, after visiting Youri, the chief of which place was supposed to
be in possession of Park's papers, he was to make his way, either down
the stream in canoes or along the banks by land, as he might find
practicable, either to the sea, if the stream was found to flow in that
direction, or eastward into Lake Chad, which at that time, it was
supposed, it might possibly do. In the latter case, if found advisable,
he was to return home by way of Fezzan and Tripoli; but, in either case,
he was to follow its course, if possible, to its termination, wherever
that might be.
Sailing from Portsmouth on the 9th of January, 1830, the Landers reached
Cape Coast Castle on the 22nd. Here they were fortunate enough to
engage old Pasco and his wife, with Richard's former attendant, Jowdie,
together with Ibrahim and Nimo, two Bornou men, who could speak English,
as also the Haussa language. Hence they went to Badagarry, the chief of
which place, Adooley, entertained them hospitably.
On the 31st of March, they commenced their journey into the interior,
proceeding up the river as far as it was navigable. Reaching Bidjii
they were supplied with horses, on which they continued their journey.
It was here Captain Pearce and Dr Morrison fell sick when accompanying
Clapperton in his last journey. Both the brothers suffered from
sickness; but, undaunted, they pursued their course till they reached
Katunga, the capital of Youriba.
Houses in this province were formed of badly-built clay walls, thatched
roofs, and floors of mud, polished with cow-dung. The only difference
between the residence of a chief and those of his subjects consisted in
the number, though not in the superiority, of his court-yards. For the
most part they were tenanted by women and slaves, together with flocks
of sheep and goats, and abundance of pigs and poultry mixed
indiscriminately. The palace of the king, however, was somewhat
superior.
The monarch had put on his robes of state to receive them, and amused
them while dinner was preparing with a concert from a number of long
drums, kettledrums, and horns. He wore on his head an ornament like a
bishop's mitre, covered with strings of coral. His _tobe_ was of green
silk, crimson silk, damask, and green silk velvet, sewn together like a
piece of patchwork. He wore English cotton stockings, and sandals of
neat workmanship. His subjects as they approached prostrated
themselves, rubbing their heads with earth, and kissing the ground
repeatedly, till their faces were covered with the red soil.
The king was so amused with the very different style with which the
Englishmen saluted him that he burst out in a fit of laughter, in which
his wives and subjects joined him.
They parted with the worthy monarch, who forwarded them on their
journey.
Avoiding Avawa, at which place the widow Zuma had laid siege to the
hearts of Clapperton and his attendant, they proceeded on to Boussa,
which, greatly to their surprise, they found standing on the mainland,
and not on an island as Clapperton's journal had stated.
The king asserted, when they had presented themselves, that he and his
court had been weeping all the morning for the death of Clapperton; but,
as no outward signs of tears were visible, the travellers rather
mistrusted the monarch's assertion.
A hut having been selected for them, they repaired to it, and were well
supplied with dishes of meat, rice, and corn for supper.
What was their astonishment the next day to receive a visit from the
widow Zuma! who appeared, however, woefully changed, being clad in very
humble apparel of country cloth. Having quarrelled with the ruler of
Wawa, she had made her escape over the city wall in the night,
travelling on foot to Boussa, where she had since taken up her abode.
The king was highly pleased with the presents which the Landers had
brought him, and he and his wife, his chief counsellor and only
confidant, honoured them with a visit at their hut. The queen was
dressed in a check shirt, with several pieces of blue cotton--one tied
round her waist, another hanging over her shoulder, and one covering her
head--brass rings ornamenting her great toes, and bracelets her wrists;
besides which she wore a necklace of coral and beads of gold, and small
pieces of coral stuck in the lobe of each ear. Coral appeared to be in
great demand wherever they went, and the queen was disappointed on
finding that they had brought none.
Lander, concealing the object of his journey, informed the king that his
purpose was to go to Bornou by way of Youri, and requested a safe
conveyance through his territories.
This permission was granted, and, sending their horses by land, they
proceeded up the river in a canoe which was furnished them, towards
Youri.
The scenery on the main branch of the river was interesting and
picturesque: the bank literally covered with hamlets and villages, and
fine trees bending under the weight of their dark foliage, and
contrasting with the lively verdure of the hills and plains.
After proceeding a short distance the stream gradually widened to two
miles, in some places the water being very shallow, but in others of
considerable depth.
Steering directly northward they voyaged on for four days, having
passed, they were told, all the dangerous rocks and sandbanks which are
to be found above Youri or below Boussa.
Landing at a little village on the bank, where their horses met them,
they rode a distance of eight miles to the walls of Youri. That city
they entered through an amazingly long passage, at the end of which was
an immense door, covered with plates of iron rudely fastened to the
woodwork.
A habitation had been provided for them, to which they were conducted,
excusing themselves from paying their respects to the sultan on account
of the fatigues of their journey. The following evening they visited
the sultan, whose palace consisted of a group of buildings enclosed by a
high wall. Dismounting, they were conducted along a low, dark avenue,
with pillars on either side, and, passing through which, they entered a
large square yard, where a number of servants were hurrying about and
others seated on the ground. They were kept waiting for some time,
till, receiving a summons to advance, they were introduced into another
square, which resembled a clean farm-yard. Here they found the sultan
seated alone on a plain piece of carpet, with a pillow on each side of
him and a neat brass pan in front. He was big-headed, corpulent, and,
though of advanced age, a jolly-looking man. He expressed his annoyance
that Clapperton did not visit him, and that Lander had not done so on
his return, and they were not sorry to take their leave.
He here was shown a rich damask _tobe_, covered with gold embroidery,
which had belonged to Mr Park, and was probably part of the spoil taken
from the canoe, intended as a present to some native prince. They were,
at first, in hopes of obtaining Park's journals; but only an old
nautical almanack was seen, and they afterwards discovered that the
journals themselves, though kept for some years, had, after Clapperton's
death, been destroyed by the person into whose hands they had fallen.
They, however, obtained a gun which had undoubtedly belonged to Park,
and which was given up to them in exchange for one of their own
fowling-pieces.
The king, though he expressed his readiness to assist them, declared
that he could not forward them on their way to the eastward, as from the
disturbed state of the country he would be unable to guarantee their
safety, and that the best thing he could do was to send them back to
Boussa. On this they immediately sent a message to the King of Boussa,
saying that as they were unable to continue their journey in the
direction they had proposed, they would feel deeply obliged if he would
lend them a canoe, by which they might proceed down the river to the
salt water, and that they would remunerate him to the best of their
ability.
The disturbances of which they had heard had been created by the widow
Zuma, who had instigated the people of Nouffie to make a raid into the
territory of the King of Wawa. They had succeeded in carrying off some
bullocks near the walls of his town. She had fled from Boussa to
another town, the governor of which had, however, sent her back, and she
would now probably be severely punished by the King of Boussa, or be
returned to her own sovereign, who would probably cut off her head.
On the 2nd of August they set off on their road to Boussa, but here they
were kept some weeks, during which either one or the other of the
brothers paid visits to the King of Wawa, from whom they found they had
the best chance of obtaining a canoe. The King and Queen of Boussa were
the most amiable couple they met with on their travels, and treated them
with uniform kindness during their stay. The king, though not equalling
the King of Wawa, is proud of his skill as a dancer, and he exhibited
his accomplishments at a grand festival which took place during their
visit. Although advanced in life, he was as active as a boy, and
indulged largely in his favourite amusement every Friday.
On the last day of the festival, while his subjects were gathered in
large numbers on the racecourse, he appeared among them, followed by
boys carrying calabashes full of cowries, with which he rewarded the
dancers, singers, and musicians, scattering the remainder among the
crowd, to be scrambled for. Then, to show his affection for his
subjects, unwilling to send them to their homes without giving them
another treat, he danced sideways half way up the racecourse and back
again to his residence, with much stateliness, his amiable wife smiling
with delight that she had such a spouse, while the people were louder
than ever in their shouts of approbation.
They heard here that El Kanemy, Major Denham's friend, had fallen into
disgrace with the Sultan of Bornou, who suspected him of treasonable
practices, and of the intention of usurping the sovereignty. He had
been imprisoned, and would have lost his head had not the Mahommedan
priests interfered and obtained his liberation.
During their last visit to the King of Wawa, he exhibited a collection
of charms written on sheets of paper, glued or pasted together. Among
them was a small edition of Watts's Hymns, on one of the blank leaves of
which was written, "Alexander Anderson, Royal Military Hospital,
Gosport, 1804," which of course had belonged to Mr Park's
brother-in-law, who died in that neighbourhood. They had seen also two
other notes addressed to Park, one from a Mr Watson, and the other from
Lady Dalkeith.
It was not before the 30th of September that at length, having obtained
the long-wished-for canoes, they were able to embark from the Island of
Patashie, in the neighbourhood of Boussa. Cheered by the natives, they
sprang on board, and the current rapidly bore them down the stream.
Their voyage had now begun prosperously; but they were detained at
several places by the chiefs, who wished to get as much as they could
out of them.
At Lever a priest, attended by a number of followers, told them that
they were in his power, and should not quit the town till he thought
proper. They had hitherto always behaved in the mildest manner
possible, but now Lander replied that if the priest or any one else
attempted to hinder them from taking their departure, he should feel no
hesitation in shooting him. In an instant the priest's manner changed,
and he became civil and humble. They and their people were, however,
allowed to make the attempt of launching their canoe, in which, as she
was long and heavy, they were unable to succeed. The priest and his
followers at length, ashamed of seeing the strangers labouring so hard,
came to the spot and in a few minutes carried their boats into the
water. They passed numerous islands, many of them several miles in
length and thickly inhabited.
At Leechee the Niger was found to be three miles in width. The
inhabitants of the place had numerous canoes. The boatmen they engaged
here, though they had only paddled on for about forty minutes, refused
to go further, and they were compelled to wait till they could obtain a
fresh crew. Indeed, at the different places at which they stopped, they
were vexatiously delayed on various pretexts by the natives.
At Belee Island a messenger arrived to inform them that they would be
visited in the morning by the King of the Dark Water.
They embarked at an early hour, and at about ten o'clock the sound of
voices singing, which reached their ears over the surface of the stream,
warned them of the approach of the monarch. A small canoe came first,
and then another propelled by upwards of twenty fine young men. In
this, under a decorated awning, with a piece of scarlet cloth ornamented
with beads and gold lace in front, sat the King of the Dark Water. In
the stern were a number of musicians--drummers and a trumpeter--and in
the bow four little boys, neatly clad. The king, of coal-black hue, was
a fine-looking man, well stricken in years. He was dressed in a
bournous of blue cloth, under which was a variegated _tobe_, made of
figured satin, Haussa trousers, sandals of coloured leather, and a red
cloth cap on his head. He was accompanied by six fine, handsome,
jet-black girls, his wives, also picturesquely dressed, their wrists
ornamented with silver bracelets and their necks with coloured
necklaces.
The travellers saluted him with a discharge from their muskets, and
while he went on shore, Richard arrayed himself in an old naval uniform
coat, and his brother in the handsomest dress he possessed; their
attendants put on new, white, Mahommedan _tobes_, while the British flag
flew from the bow of their boat, so that they might show him all the
respect in their power. These arrangements being concluded, the English
led the way down the river, followed by the King of the Dark Water, and
a squadron of canoes, to the island of Zagozhi, on which a town of
considerable size was situated. Opposite to it was the town of Rabba,
said to be very large and populous.
The Niger flows at this spot in a direction south of east.
While staying at this place, Lander was surprised by receiving an
over-warm and affectionate salutation from a little, ugly, old Arab,
whom he recognised as having been employed by Clapperton, having
afterwards acted as his own guide from Kano. He had cheated Clapperton,
and had also stolen Captain Pearce's sword and a sum of money when sent
back to Kano, from which he had decamped. When reminded of his
rogueries he only laughed, and then in the most impertinent manner
begged for everything he saw. Lander consequently turned him out of the
hut.
They found here Mallam Dendow, a cousin of Bello, very old and feeble.
He was pleased with the presents he received, and through his means the
King of the Dark Water promised to supply them with canoes and a guide
to conduct them to the sea.
Funda, the town near which the Niger was supposed to flow, was, as far
as they could learn, at a considerable distance from this neighbourhood.
Mallam Dendow had lately planned an expedition against it, but it
terminated by his warriors taking fright and returning to their homes
without accomplishing anything.
These Arabs, throughout Africa, were the greatest curse of the country,
and were the chief cause of the devastating wars which were constantly
taking place, while they in no way contributed to the real civilisation
of the people.
Just as the travellers were hoping to recommence their voyage, old Pasco
returned from Mallam Dendow with the unpleasant information that the
chief was dissatisfied with the gifts he had received, and that unless
they would present him with others of more value he would take their
guns and powder from them before he would permit them to leave Zagozhi.
Having no articles left among their stores, they were most unwillingly
compelled to present him with Mr Park's _tobe_, which had been given by
the King of Boussa. With this he was highly delighted, and now,
declaring that he would be their friend for ever after, he not only
obtained for them the restitution of their canoe, which had been seized
by the King of the Dark Water, but made them a present of a number of
handsome mats and a supply of cowries and provisions.
On the 16th they again launched into the river, firing two muskets and
uttering three cheers as a salute to the King of the Dark Water and the
hundreds of spectators gazing at them, whom they soon left out of sight.
They were now, with the exception of a few bracelets and other trifling
articles, possessed of nothing with which to make presents or pay
tribute to the chiefs. It was, therefore, important that they should
hasten down the stream, touching at as few places as possible.
They passed a village on an island completely submerged, and were nearly
upset by striking against the roof of one of the cottages, towards which
a whirlpool had driven them. A number of canoes were engaged in
carrying off the inhabitants.
At the island of Fofo they heard that the frontiers of Funda were three
days' journey down the Niger, and that the city itself was upwards of
three days' journey inland from the water-side, and that thus it would
be impossible for them to visit it.
After they had left Zagozhi, in between three and four days they reached
Egga, a large town situated behind a morass, several creeks leading out
of it. A vast number of large canoes lay off the place, laden with all
kinds of merchandise. The chief, a venerable man with a long, white
beard, examined them from head to foot and, remarking that they were
strange-looking people well worth seeing, awarded them a commodious hut.
It was a town of prodigious extent and had an immense population. The
river varied in width from two to five and six miles.
They here observed Benin and Portuguese clothes worn by the inhabitants,
who, being very enterprising, were engaged in trading up and down the
river.
On the 22nd they once more embarked, their crew greatly alarmed with the
prospect of meeting enemies ahead, who would, they said, very likely put
them to death.
Had they, however, remained at Egga, they would probably have been made
slaves. They heard, indeed, dreadful reports of the character of the
people occupying both sides of the Niger between Kakunda and Bocqua.
They, however, loaded their arms and prepared to defend themselves.
One of their men, Antonio, son of a chief on the Bonny river, who had
joined them from HM brig "Clinker," was especially alarmed--not on his
own account, as he said that his life was of no consequence, but that he
feared that his two white friends, whom he loved so dearly, might be
killed. They, accordingly, pulled on during the night, passing a large
town, from which issued a loud noise, as of a multitude quarrelling.
Once they fancied they saw a light following them, but it turned out to
be a will-o'-the-wisp.
On the 25th of October suddenly the river changed to the south-west,
running between immensely high hills, and in the evening they passed the
mouth of a considerable rivet entering the Niger from the eastward.
After pulling up some little way, they found the current so strong
against them that they were compelled to return. This they concluded to
be the Tsadda, known, however, as the Binue.
While their men were on shore collecting firewood they came suddenly on
a village, and, the people being aroused, the travellers, seated under a
palm-tree, were quickly surrounded; but the chief, appearing, was
persuaded that they only desired peace. Old Pasco was the only one who
had stood by them during the interval, the rest having taken to their
heels on the appearance of danger.
On landing at another place, a number of women hastened out of an
adjacent village with muskets; but, seeing the travellers sitting down
quietly without making any hostile display, they soon became friendly.
They were detained three days at Damuggoo, a very dirty town, where,
however, the people were generally dressed in Manchester cottons; that
is to say, they wore pieces of them round their waists, extending to the
knee.
Continuing their voyage down the river, they observed the large market
town of Kirree. Near it were a number of canoes of considerable size,
with flags flying on long bamboos. Shortly afterwards a fleet of fifty
canoes appeared ahead, with flags of all nations, among which the Union
Jack was most conspicuous. All the people were dressed in European
clothes, with the exception of trousers, which the chiefs alone are
allowed to wear.
Lander, overjoyed by the sight, supposing that they must be friends,
approached without fear, when a huge man of most forbidding countenance
beckoned him to come on board his canoe. The next instant the sound of
drums was heard, and several men levelled their muskets at the
traveller. In addition to the muskets, each canoe had a long four or
six-pounder in its bow, besides which the crews were armed with swords
and boarding-pikes. In an instant their luggage was transferred to the
canoes of their opponents, while some of them seized Pasco's wife, and
were dragging her out of the canoe. On this Lander, calling to his men
to assist him, determined to sell his life as dearly as he could; and,
having dragged back Pasco's wife, they fought so determinedly that they
were able to effect their escape. None of the other canoes had
interfered, and, seeing that which had plundered them making its way to
the market, Lander pulled after her as fast as he could go, in the hopes
of recovering their property. On their way they encountered another
canoe, in which a person, apparently of consequence, hailed them with
the words: "Hilloa, white man! You French; you English?"
"English," answered Lander. "Come here in my canoe," was the reply.
Lander accordingly got into his canoe, while the chief put three men
into Lander's that they might assist in pulling to the market. He at
once treated Lander with great kindness and promised him every
assistance in his power.
Soon after this, what was Richard Lander's dismay to see the canoe of
which his brother John had command followed by the villains who had
attacked him, capsized, and sunk, while their luggage went to the
bottom--his brother and crew being left struggling in the water.
Richard was on the point of leaping in to help him, when he saw him
dragged into another canoe, the other men swimming on shore. It was
some time before he was able to reach him, when, with their new friend,
they repaired to the market. Here they found a number of Damuggoo
people and others who sided with them, and a Mahommedan from Funda urged
them to keep up their spirits, and that all would be made right. Search
was then commenced for their property. One of their journals and a box
of books, with the medicine chest and a few articles of clothing were
found, and after a palaver were restored; but the whole of Richard
Lander's journal with the exception of one note-book, Mr Park's gun and
thirty-six of their cutlasses and pistols, some elephant tusks, ostrich
feathers, leopard-skins, and a variety of seeds had all been lost, as
well as their remaining cowries, buttons, and needles, which were so
important to enable them to purchase food.
The people who had attacked them were from Eboe, and had come this
distance on a plundering expedition, intending to trade when unable to
carry off property without fighting. The leading man who had attacked
them was put into irons and doomed to die by the people of Kirree; and
it was decided that if the king of Eboe, whose subject he was, should
refuse to put him to death, no more of his canoes should be allowed to
come to the country to trade.
Escorted by six war-canoes from Damuggoo, the travellers left Kirree and
continued their voyage down the river, passing through a large lake-like
expanse of the Niger, till on the evening of the 8th they reached the
town of Eboe.