with palm leaves. Yards were attached to each, in which plantations of
bananas and cocoa-nut trees grew.
Here they were addressed in English by several brawny fellows with
stentorian voices, who shook hands, asking them "how they did"--one
calling himself Gun, though Blunderbuss or Thunder would have been as
appropriate a name, then stating that his brother was King Boy and that
his father was King Forday, who with King Jacket governed all the Brass
country. He also informed them that a Spanish schooner and an English
brig, the "Thomas," of Liverpool, were lying in the first Brass river.
After resting for some time they were conducted to the palace of the
dreaded Obie, king of the Eboe country. Instead of the savage monster
they expected to see, a door opened, when a sprightly young man, with a
mild countenance and an eye which indicated quickness and intelligence,
appeared before them and cordially shook hands. His dress was so
covered with a profusion of coral ornaments that he might appropriately
have been styled the "Coral King." On his head he wore a sugar-loaf
hat, thickly adorned with strings of coloured beads and pieces of broken
looking-glass, while several strings of beads were tightly fastened
round his neck. He had on a short Spanish surtout of red cloth,
ornamented with gold epaulettes, and a pair of trousers of the same
material, while both his legs and wrists were covered with strings of
beads, and to each leg, above the naked ankles and feet, was suspended a
string of little brass bells, which jingled as he walked.
An account of what had happened at Kirree was narrated to him, and he
declared his intention of settling the matter. Notwithstanding his
protestations, however, the fair-spoken king detained the travellers,
and would have kept them and their followers in slavery had not King
Boy, the eldest son of the King of Brass Town, volunteered to pay their
ransom on receiving a written promise that it should be repaid to him by
the master of the "Thomas," then lying in the Brass River, or by any
other merchantman captain who might be found there. King Boy wished to
send the document down to the brig at once; but fortunately Lander told
him that he was sure the captain would not pay it till he had been
received on board. On this the King of Eboe allowed them to embark in
King Boy's canoe. It was a large craft, paddled by forty men and boys,
in addition to whom there were, besides the king and his wife and their
own party, several slaves, so that the number on board amounted to fully
sixty people. There were also cannon lashed to the bows, and a number
of cutlasses and chests of spirits, silk, and cotton goods.
Thus laden, the Brass canoe took her way down the river, her unfortunate
English passengers dreadfully cramped for room--John Lander one night,
while suffering from fever, having the feet of the royal couple in his
face.
On the 15th of November they landed at the excessively dirty town of
King Forday, situated in the middle of a marsh. Here they took up their
quarters at Boy's house.
Soon after their arrival they were cheered by recognising the features
of a European in the midst of a crowd of savages. He proved to be the
master of a Spanish schooner lying in the Brass River for slaves. He
was affable and courteous, and told them that six of his crew were ill
of fever and that the rest were suffering.
Their residence, which its owner called an English house, was built
close to the water, of yellow clay, but with several windows, all
furnished with shutters.
Having paid his respects to King Forday, Richard Lander, leaving his
brother and his men at the town, set off, in King Boy's canoe, to go
sixty miles down the river to the brig.
His feelings of delight may be imagined when he had ocular evidence that
he had at length succeeded in tracing the mysterious Niger down to the
ocean, by seeing before him two vessels, one the Spanish slaver, the
other the English brig on board which he fully expected to receive the
assistance he so greatly required.
To his utter surprise and consternation, on going on board, Captain
Lake, though almost himself at death's door from fever, flatly refused
to give him a single thing. By his language and behaviour he showed
himself to be a greater savage than the ignorant blacks among whom
Lander had been travelling. Lander in vain expostulated with the
captain; fearful oaths and flat refusals were the only answers he made.
At last, when Lander suggested that he had five men, who might be useful
in working his vessel out of the river, he softened a little, and gave
him a change of linen and some provisions for his brother.
King Boy was ultimately induced to go back to bring John Lander and the
rest of the men, on Richard's reiterated promise that he would at some
time or other obtain the goods they had promised him. He presented him
also with some silver bracelets, which they had before overlooked, and a
native sword. These articles Boy accepted, but when John Lander offered
him his watch it was refused with disdain, the savage not knowing its
value.
The captain of the brig had in the meantime loaded his guns and got his
arms ready, and when Boy came up to him once more, to demand the bars
which had been promised, he replied, in a voice of thunder: "I no will!"
As the pilot, to whom the captain had also refused to pay his demand,
could not be trusted to take the brig out, she narrowly escaped
shipwreck on the bar, but happily at length getting clear of the river,
she steered a course for Fernando Po, where the travellers landed.
Hence they sailed for Rio de Janeiro, which they reached on the 16th of
March, and from that port obtained a passage on board the "William
Harris" to England, which they reached safely on the 10th of June.
Thus, with very humble means, by the energy and courage of two
unpretending men, was the long-disputed problem of the course of the
Niger at length completely solved.
Besides the payment which the Government had promised to Richard Lander,
he received a premium of fifty guineas, placed at the disposal of the
Royal Geographical Society by the king, and his brother John obtained
employment under Government suitable to his abilities.
CHAPTER TEN.
TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES OF DR. BARTH IN NORTH AND CENTRAL AFRICA, 1849.
LEAVES TRIPOLI WITH MR. RICHARDSON AND DR. OVERWEG--SUPPRESSION OF SLAVE
TRADE THE CHIEF OBJECT OF THE EXPEDITION--NUMEROUS RUINS SEEN--CROSS THE
HAMMADA DESERT--REST AT AN OASIS--REACH MOURZOUK--DR. BARTH'S
ADVENTURE--NEARLY PERISHES IN THE DESERT--DIFFICULTIES OF JOURNEY--
FOLLOWED BY TAWAREK FREEBOOTERS--PREPARATIONS FOR AN ATTACK--STRANGE
DANCERS--TRIBUTE DEMANDED--CAMP AT NIGHT--EXPECTING AN ATTACK--CONSTANT
FIRING KEPT UP--CAMELS STOLEN--PURSUED--DANGEROUS SITUATION--TRAVELLERS
EXPECT DEATH--SAVED BY FRIENDLY CHIEF--DR. BARTH VISITS AGADES--A
SALT-CARAVAN--THE CARAVAN REACHES TAGELEL.
The British Government had, in 1849, appointed Mr Richardson, an
experienced traveller in Africa, to the command of an expedition which
was to start from Tripoli, on the north coast, and thence endeavour to
penetrate to the central part of the continent. By the recommendation
of the Chevalier Bunsen Dr Barth, who had spent three years travelling
through Barbary and the desert tracts to the westward bordering the
shores of the Mediterranean, was allowed, accompanied by another German,
Dr Overweg, to join the expedition.
A light boat, which was divided into two portions and could be carried
on the backs of camels, was provided, and a sailor to navigate her
either on Lake Chad or down the Niger.
Dr Barth and his countryman at once pushed on for Tripoli, in the
neighbourhood of which they made long excursions while waiting for the
arrival of Mr Richardson, who had remained in Paris for despatches.
One of the principal objects of the expedition was the abolition of the
slave trade, which it was known was carried on to a fearful extent in
those regions. The principal employment of the Moorish tribes on the
borders of the territories inhabited by blacks is still, as it was in
the days of Mungo Park and Clapperton, slave-hunting. Villages are
attacked for the purpose, when the prisoners captured are carried
northward across the desert and sold in Morocco and the other Barbary
states.
Another object was the opening up a lawful commercial intercourse with
the people who might be visited, and the exploration of the country for
scientific purposes, as well as to discover the course of the great
river which the Landers had seen flowing into the Niger in their
adventurous voyage down that stream.
On the arrival of Mr Richardson the travellers at length set out from
Tripoli, on the 24th of March, 1850. They rode on camels, a
considerable number of which were also required to carry their baggage.
The boat had unfortunately been divided only into two pieces instead of
four, thus causing much trouble.
We may picture them setting forth with their long line of camels and
numerous attendants, servants, camel-drivers, and guides, and
accompanied by Mr Crowe, the consul, Mr Reade, the vice-consul, and
other friends who came forth to see them start; or with their tents
pitched on a moonlight night, amidst a few date and olive trees, in a
green meadow--a little oasis surrounded by sand.
The two doctors alone required eight camels for their luggage, besides
those they rode. Dr Barth had procured an excellent one of the
renowned Bu-Saef breed. The travellers were well-armed, as they had to
pass through disturbed districts, and were likely to encounter open
enemies, and might have to keep treacherous attendants in awe.
During the first part of their journey their way lay along cultivated
and flourishing corn-fields in the narrow _wady_, or valley, of Majenin.
At the further end of it Mr Richardson with his party overtook them
and pitched his enormous tent. It was not till the 2nd of April that
they fairly set out on their expedition. Keeping to the west of a
rugged range of hills, they entered the rocky _wady_ of Haera, where
they filled their water-skins from the pools formed by the rain.
The long oars and poles of the boat caused the camels which carried them
much fatigue; but the boat, which was now cut into quarters, was more
easily packed.
The country over which they passed was stony and rocky, intercepted by
dry water-courses, and, as they proceeded, here and there adorned with
clusters of date-trees. They frequently passed the ruins of Roman
temples, tombs, monuments, and other buildings, and also numerous Roman
milestones: the Romans, indeed, had extensive colonies in this district.
Their chief object, when seeking a spot for encamping, was water.
Sometimes it was found in pools: at others in wells, being drawn to the
surface by oxen.
Travellers in Africa cannot proceed at railroad speed. Camels journey
much after their own inclination, straying to the right or left--nipping
here a straw, and there browsing on a bush--and, being obstinate
creatures, it is difficult to urge them forward faster than they like.
The doctor would have preferred a horse, but it would have been
necessary to carry barley and water for it, as it cannot live like the
camel without drinking when crossing the desert. The expense, too,
would have been very great.
Their course was nearly due south, directed in the first place towards
the town of Mourzouk, the capital of Fezzan.
Their general rate of marching was at from two to two and a half miles
an hour. The heat was very great. The doctor's Arab servant, who had
gone off to see his family in the neighbourhood, on his return arrived
at the encampment after they had started. He, accordingly, set off to
overtake the caravan. Though he had a skin of goat's milk, yet it
became so hot that he could not drink it; and, as he was obliged to
march the whole of the day without water, he suffered greatly and
arrived in a very exhausted state.
Among the monuments passed was one adorned with rich carving, proving
that these regions, now so poor, must have once supported a population
sufficiently advanced in taste and feeling to admire works of a refined
character. They also found ruins of Christian churches of a later
period.
They were now travelling through a district known as the Hammada--a
high, level, stony region, destitute of wells or pools. Here and there,
however, small green patches of herbage were found, affording a welcome
meal to the camels.
They were accompanied by a little green bird, called the "asfir," which
lives entirely upon the caravans as they pass along, by picking off the
vermin from the feet of the camels.
At a green oasis, El Wueshkeh, where grew a few stunted palm-trees,
their camel-drivers killed a number of a venomous lizard, called
"bu-keshash." At night a cold wind, accompanied by rain, began to blow;
their tent was overturned, and they had much trouble in pitching it
again. The next day a number of truffles were found, which afforded
them some delicious truffle soup.
They met, soon after starting, two caravans--the largest consisting of
fifteen camels laden with ivory. With the latter was a woman sitting
comfortably in a little cage on the camel's back.
Passing through a narrow ravine between gloomy cliffs, they reached a
sandy waste, passing across which they at length arrived at some
crumbling ruins surrounding a well, where they and their camels could
quench their thirst. Though the great watering-place on this desert
road, it has not a cheerful aspect; but, as the water is always bubbling
up and keeps the same level, the largest caravan might be fully
supplied. A day was spent here, as both camels and men required rest.
Day after day they travelled on, passing through rocky _wadies_ and
narrow defiles, out of the sides of which projected jet-black masses of
sandstone, giving a wild air to the desolate region.
One day two gazelles were caught, an addition to their bill of fare.
At length in the distance appeared a town on the top of a broad,
terraced rock. They took long to reach it.
It is rarely such a place is seen in that part of the world. The rock
rose in the midst of a valley, occupying a position which in days of
yore must have made it a place of great importance. It is called Ederi.
Amidst the sand-hills which surround it are green fields of wheat and
barley, and here and there groves of date-trees.
Before them now lay a series of sand-hills, intermingled with small
clusters of palm-trees. Sometimes the ascent of the sand-hills was most
trying for the camels. They extend for five days' march or more, but
are nothing in comparison with those in the direction of the Natron
Lakes: so one of their guides told them.
Often, while crossing this sandy waste, thirsty travellers are deceived
by the effects of the curious mirage, when lakes glittering in the sun,
with towers, domes, and minarets reflected on their surface, appear
before their eyes, to vanish suddenly as they approach.
Their camel-drivers had led them them to the left, in order to visit
their own village of Ugrefe. It consisted of about thirty light and low
dwellings made of clay and palm branches. In an open space near it they
encamped beneath two splendid ethel-trees, or tamarisks.
At length, on the 6th of May, they reached the plantations surrounding
Mourzouk, the capital of Fezzan. The walls are built of a sort of clay
glittering with saline incrustations. Going round the whole of the
western and northern sides, which have no gateway wide enough for a
caravan, they halted on the eastern side of the town, not far from the
camp of the pilgrims who were returning from Egypt to Morocco. They
were here welcomed by Mr Gagliuffi, a Greek merchant, who received them
into his house.
The buildings are mostly of one story, with flat roofs and parapets,
with interior courts, and broad porticoes supported by pillars in front.
The town contains a bazaar and barracks for two thousand Turkish
troops. It is a thoroughfare rather than the seat of a commerce.
They were here joined by a man of influence named Mahomet Boro, an
elderly, respectable-looking personage, wearing a green bournous over
white under-clothes. He was to act as mediator between them and the
inhabitants of the countries they were to visit. He was now on his
homeward journey from a pilgrimage to Mecca.
On the 13th of June they left Mourzouk by the eastern gate. Some chiefs
from Ghat had arrived, to whose charge Mr Gagliuffi had committed the
travellers. At this Mahomet Boro became very indignant, and threatened
that he would take care that they should be attacked on the road by his
countrymen, nor were these empty threats.
It is remarkable that while the Mahommedan religion in general is
sinking to corruption along the coast, there are ascetic sects rising up
in the interior which unite its last zealous followers by a religious
bond. From some of these sects travellers receive much ill-treatment
and annoyance. On the 15th of July the doctor determined to visit a
remarkable mountain which appeared in the distance. Being unable to
obtain any guide, he set off, taking with him as provisions only dried
biscuits and dates--the worst possible food in the desert when water is
scarce. Making his way over the pebbly ground, he saw a pair of
beautiful antelopes, which stopped, gazing at him and wagging their
tails.
The distance proved far greater than he had imagined; indeed, there was
a deep valley between him and the side of the mountain. Still, eager to
reach its summit, he pushed on. The sun began to put forth its power;
there was not the slightest shade around. At length he reached the
height at which he was aiming, but, on looking round, he in vain sought
for any traces of the caravan. Having but a small supply of water in
his water-skin, he could only venture to sip a few drops, while he could
with difficulty eat his dry biscuit and dates.
Fearing that the caravan might push on believing him to be in advance,
he immediately descended the mountain, in order to follow its course.
At noon he swallowed the remainder of his water, but, taken on an empty
stomach, it did not restore his strength. Believing that his party were
to encamp at no great distance from the mountain, he strained his sight
in hopes of seeing his friends; but no living being was visible. Having
walked some distance, he ascended a mound crowned with an ethel-bush,
where he fired his pistols; but a strong east wind blowing against him,
he in vain waited for an answer. Crossing some sand-hills, he again
fired, and, at last convinced that there could be nobody in that
direction, he supposed that his party were still behind him, and
unluckily kept more to the east. At last some small huts appeared in
the distance. He hastened towards them, but they were empty, nor was a
drop of water to be obtained. His strength being exhausted, he sat down
on the bare plain, hoping that the caravan would come up. For a moment
he thought he saw a string of camels passing in the distance, but it was
a delusion.
He mustered strength sufficient to scramble to an ethel-tree on an
elevated spot, intending to light a fire, but, unable to move about, he
could gather no wood. Having rested after dark for an hour or two, he
once more rose, and discovered in the south-west a large fire. Again he
fired his pistols, but no answer was returned. Still the flames rose
towards the sky, telling him where deliverance was to be found, but he
was unable to drag his weary limbs so far. Having waited long, he fired
a second time, yet no answer came. At last he resigned himself to the
care of the Merciful One and tried to sleep, but in vain--he was in a
high fever. The long night wore away and dawn was drawing nigh. All
was repose and silence: he was sure that he could not choose a better
time for trying to inform his friends by signal of his whereabouts.
Collecting his remaining strength, he loaded his pistol with a heavy
charge and fired once and then again. His companions seemed not to have
heard his signals. The sun he had half longed for, half looked-forward
to with terror, at last rose. His condition, as the heat increased,
became more dreadful. He crawled round the tree, trying to enjoy the
little shade afforded by the leafless branches. About noon there was
only sufficient shade left to shelter his head. He suffered greatly
from the pangs of thirst, till at last, becoming senseless, he fell into
a sort of delirium, from which he only recovered when the sun went down
behind the mountain. Crawling from beneath the shade of the tree and
throwing a glance over the plain, suddenly the cry of a camel reached
him. It was the most delightful music he had ever heard in his life.
Raising himself a little, he saw a mounted Tarki passing at some
distance and looking eagerly around. The Tarki had discovered his
footprints in the sandy ground. Crying as loud as his faint strength
would allow, "_aman! aman_!" ("Water! water!") he was rejoiced to see
the Tarki, Musa by name, approaching, and in a few moments he was at his
side, washing and sprinkling his head. His throat was, however, too dry
to enjoy the draught which Musa poured into it. His deliverer then
placed him on his camel, mounted himself in front, and carried him to
the tents.
The strength of a European is soon broken in those climes, if for a
single day he is prevented from taking his usual food. Next day,
however, the doctor was able to continue his journey.
Ghat, well situated in the centre of an oasis, was next reached. It is
surrounded by mud walls, with flat-roofed houses, while outside are
plantations of date-trees.
On the 26th of July the caravan again set out. On the 29th they
commenced their ascent to the greatest elevation of the desert, four
thousand feet above the sea. The path winding along through loose
blocks of stone, the precipitous ascent proved very difficult. Several
loads were thrown off the camels, and the boat frequently came in
contact with the rocks. It is indeed the wildest and most rugged region
of the whole desert. At one place the road meandered in a remarkable
way, sometimes reduced to a narrow crevice between curiously-terraced
buttresses of rocks. Two hours were occupied in descending.
At the bottom was a _wady_ between steep, precipitous cliffs looking
almost like walls erected by the hand of man. They were more than a
thousand feet high, with a pond of rainwater at the bottom. The valley
is called Aegeri.
They had now to pass a region of sand-hills. During their passage the
mirage set before their eyes beautiful sheets of water, which quickly
disappeared as they approached.
Desolate as the country appears, large herds of wild oxen rove over it.
Though the men tried to catch some of them, they were unsuccessful, as
the animal, sluggish as it seems, rapidly climbs the rocks and is soon
lost to sight.
The travellers, having now entered the tropics, expected to reach
pleasanter regions than they had hitherto passed through. Their guides,
however, were leading them further to the west than they wished, their
great desire being to reach Negroland as soon as possible.
On the 18th of August they were quietly pursuing their road, when one of
their party was seen running up behind them, swinging his musket over
his head and crying: "Lads, our enemy has come!" Alarm was spread
through the caravan: everyone seized his arms, and those who were riding
jumped from their camels. The man reported that a number of Tawarek,
mounted on camels, had been seen rapidly approaching, with the evident
intention of attacking the caravan. A warlike spirit prevailed, and
all, the doctor thought, would fight valiantly. Freebooting parties,
however, do not attack openly. They first introduce themselves in a
peaceable way, when, having disturbed the little unity which exists in
most caravans, they gradually throw off the mask.