ground before his majesty's residences, the characters appearing in
masks. One of them presented an enormous snake, which crept out of a
huge bag and followed the manager round the park while he defended
himself with a sword. Out of another sack came a man covered apparently
with white wax, to look like a European, miserably thin and starved with
cold. He went through the ceremony of taking snuff and rubbing his
nose. When he walked it was with an awkward gait, treading as the most
tender-footed white man would do in walking with bare soles over rough
ground.
Clapperton pretended to be as much pleased with this caricature of a
white man as the natives were.
Between each act the king's women sang a number of choral songs, joined
by the crowd outside.
They thankfully heard, on the 6th of March, that the messengers had
returned, and that they might set out the next day, when the king
presented Clapperton with a horse and bade him farewell.
Mr Houtson, who had been for some time suffering from illness, was
compelled to return, and he, too, died on reaching the coast.
Clapperton, with his faithful attendant, Richard Lander, and the black,
Pasco, proceeded alone. They had evidence as they advanced of the
destruction caused by the Felatahs, in the number of villages which had
been burnt down, while the inhabitants of others, who had taken to
flight, were seen returning to their homes.
A few days after starting they overtook a large caravan belonging to
Haussa, on its way from Gonga and Ashantee. It consisted of upwards of
a thousand men and women, and as many beasts of burden. The head man
offered to carry Clapperton's baggage to Kano for a certain sum. He
said that he had been detained in Gonga twelve months on account of the
wars. Their goods were carried on bullocks, mules, asses, and also by a
number of female slaves. Some of the merchants had no more property
than they could carry on their own heads. The chief of the town,
however, advised Clapperton not to trust the caravan leader, for, as he
had no means of conveying his luggage, he would undoubtedly leave him in
the lurch. He therefore proceeded as he intended, alone.
On the 20th of March Clapperton entered the village of Barakina, the
inhabitants of which were noted as the best hunters in the country. As
he entered, a hunter came in from the chase. He wore a leopard-skin
over his shoulder, carrying a light spear in his hand, and his bow and
arrows slung over his shoulder. He was followed by three cream-coloured
dogs, their necks adorned with collars of different-coloured leather.
He was followed by a slave carrying a dead antelope.
On leaving this village he passed through a narrow gorge, shaded by tall
majestic trees. "Here," he thought to himself, "are the gates leading
to the Niger."
Next day he arrived before the walls of Wawa, in the neighbourhood of
the far-famed river.
Here he met with a most unexpected difficulty. Not only did the
daughter of the governor make love to him, but a rich widow called Zuma,
the daughter of an Arab, who, though brown, considered herself a white
woman, insisted on marrying either him or his servant Richard. Being
above twenty, she was considered past her prime; but had it not been for
her stoutness, which made her look like a walking water-butt, she would
really have been handsome. Finding that neither of the white strangers
would accept her offers, she endeavoured to entrap them by giving a wife
to Pasco, by which, according to the customs of the country, she
obtained some sort of claim over his master. The governor soon became
alarmed, declaring that, as the lady had a thousand slaves and enormous
wealth, she would very likely drive him from the country, and, should
the traveller accept her hand, raise him to the throne of Waiva. In the
hopes of ending the matter, Clapperton set off for the Niger, leaving
his baggage to follow him to the ferry of Comie, while he went round by
Boussa. Greatly to his annoyance his baggage was, however, detained by
the governor, who feared the widow Zuma's machinations, and refused to
liberate it till her return. Clapperton had great difficulty in making
him believe that he had no sort of communication whatever with the lady.
Next day, however, the widow Zuma made her entrance into the city,
sitting astride on a fine horse, with housings of scarlet cloth trimmed
with lace. She herself was habited in a red silk mantle, red trousers,
and morocco boots, numerous spells enclosed in coloured leather cases
being hung round her. A large train of armed attendants followed her,
while she was preceded by a drummer decked in ostrich feathers.
Clapperton's resolution, however, was not to be overcome. To settle the
matter he made Pasco give back his wife again, assuring the governor
that he had no intention whatever of entering into any of her designs.
She, therefore, indignantly shook the dust from her feet, and allowed
the hard-hearted stranger to proceed unmolested on his way.
He made inquiries of all who could give him any information about the
fate of Park. They all asked him whether he intended to take up the
vessel, which they said still remained at the bottom. The governor's
head man told him that the boat stuck fast between two rocks; that the
people in it laid down four anchors ahead, when, the water rushing down
fiercely from the rocks as the white men attempted to get on shore, they
were drowned; that crowds of people went to see them, but that the white
men did not shoot at them, nor did the natives at the people in the
boat, as they were too much frightened either to shoot at or assist
them. They said, further, that a great many things were in the boat--
books and riches--which the Sultan of Boussa had possession of; that
there was an abundance of beef, cut in slices and salted, and that the
people of Boussa who had eaten of it had died because it was human
flesh, which it was well-known white men eat. Another man, however,
asserted that the natives did shoot arrows because the people in the
boat had fired at them.
They all treated the affair with much seriousness, looking on the place
where the boat was wrecked with awe, and telling some most marvellous
stories about her and her ill-fated crew.
Boussa, Clapperton says in his journal, is a large town with extensive
walls, situated on an island in the Quorra, and that to reach it he had
to cross in a canoe, while his horse swam over.
After Clapperton had offered the sultan the presents he had brought for
him, he inquired about the white men who had been lost in the river. He
seemed _very_ uneasy at the question, and replied that he was a little
boy at the time, and had nothing belonging to them; indeed, Clapperton
found that any books and papers which had been saved were in the
possession of the Sultan of Youri.
Shortly afterwards a messenger arrived from that chief, inviting him to
his town, and offering to send canoes to convey him up the river; but
Clapperton, anxious to proceed on his journey, unfortunately declined
the offer.
He was here treated in the kindest way possible, and everyone was ready
to give him information on all points, with the exception of that
connected with Park's death.
The place, however, where the boat struck and the unfortunate crew
perished was pointed out to him. It was in the eastern of three
channels into which the river is here divided. A low flat island of
about a quarter of a mile in breadth lies between the town of Boussa and
the fatal spot. The banks are not more than ten feet above the level of
the water, which here breaks over a grey slaty rock, extending across to
the eastern shore.
The sultan made him a present of a fine young horse, and his brother,
with many of the principal people, accompanied him as he set out on his
journey.
As he rode towards the ford at Comie, he ascended a high rock
overlooking the river. From hence he saw the stream rushing round low
rocky and wood-covered islands and among several islets and rocks, when,
taking a sudden bend to the westward, the water dashed on with great
violence against the foot of the rock on which he sat. Below the
islands the river fell three or four feet, while the rest of the channel
was studded with rocks, some of which were above water. It seemed to
him, that even had Park and Martyn passed Boussa, their vessel would
almost to a certainty have been destroyed on these rocks, where they
would probably have perished unheard of and unseen.
The traveller next entered the kingdom of Nyffe, till lately one of the
best cultivated and most flourishing in Africa, but, in consequence of
having been the prey of a desolating civil war, now almost ruined. A
dispute had arisen between two rival princes, one of whom called in the
aid of the Felatahs, who, in their usual way, had ravaged the whole
country and placed the traitorous prince on the throne. Two large
walled towns had, however, resisted the inroads of the invaders: one of
these was Coolfu, where Clapperton and the caravan he had now joined
halted for some days. Although the inhabitants were professedly
Mussulmans they were exceedingly lax in their religious duties, and none
of the bigotry so prevalent in other places was discernible. The women,
indeed, took an active part in public matters, many of them being
engaged in mercantile pursuits. They have an odd idea about imbibing
the precepts of the Koran; and, to do so, they get some learned man to
write texts from it with black chalk on pieces of board. These are then
washed, when the water is drunk. They evidently consider it a fetish or
charm of some sort.
Clapperton now entered the Felatah country of Zeg-zeg. The region, in
the neighbourhood of its capital, Zaria, was the most beautiful he had
seen in Africa, being variegated with hill and dale, resembling in many
respects the finest parts of England. It was covered with rich pastures
and fields, now blessed with plentiful crops, while the rice grown there
was the finest in Africa. Zaria was said to contain fifty thousand
inhabitants, a population exceeding that of Kano.
Arrived at Kano, he took up his quarters in his former residence. The
city was, however, in a great state of agitation, in consequence of war
raging on every side. Hostilities had broken out between the King of
Bornou and the Felatahs, while other provinces were in open rebellion,
so that a caravan had great difficulty in proceeding in any direction.
As Kano is midway between Sackatoo and Bornou, Clapperton, who purposed
visiting the latter province, determined to leave his baggage at Kano,
under charge of Richard Lander, while he himself went forward, carrying
only the presents intended for Bello.
His journey towards Sackatoo was very fatiguing; his camels were
worn-out, while he often suffered greatly from thirst.
At the town of Jaza he met his old friend the _gadado_, the sultan's
general, with a numerous train on horseback and foot. The horsemen were
armed with spears, swords, and shields, the foot with bows and arrows.
The women came behind him, some riding on horseback astraddle, some on
camels, others on foot carrying the kitchen utensils. The _gadado_ was
preceded by a band, with four long trumpets, two drums, and a pipe. On
meeting Clapperton he dismounted, and taking him by the hand, walked
hand in hand with him into the house which had been prepared for his
reception. He said that Bello had received no letters from Bornou
appointing where his messengers were to meet the mission on the coast.
Clapperton, besides suffering from hunger and thirst, lost his horse and
all his camels, which died, while his journal, ink-horn, pens, and
spectacles were stolen; nor did he ever recover them--one of the
greatest misfortunes that could happen to a traveller.
On the 15th of October, about noon, he arrived at Bello's camp, and was
immediately admitted to an audience.
The sultan's residence consisted of a number of huts, screened off by
cloth fixed on poles, making quite a village of itself.
He received the traveller in a kind and gratifying way. He asked after
the health of the King of England, and was greatly surprised to hear
that Clapperton had remained only four months at home, and had hastened
back to Africa without seeing his friends.
Bello's army was on its march to attack Coonia, the capital of the
rebels of Goobur. Nothing could be more disorderly than the march,
horse and foot intermingled in the greatest confusion, all rushing to
get forward; sometimes the followers of one chief tumbled amongst those
of another, when swords were half-drawn, but they ended in making faces
at each other, or putting on a threatening aspect. This disorderly army
consisted of upwards of fifty thousand fighting men, horse and foot.
As soon as they arrived before the town, they formed a dense circle of
men and horses around it; the horse kept out of bowshot, while the foot,
as they felt courage or inclination to do so, rushed forward and kept up
a straggling fire with about thirty muskets in addition to their bows.
The Zeg-zeg troops had one French fusil, and the Kano force forty-one
muskets. The Kano men, as soon as they fired their pieces, ran out of
bowshot to reload. The enemy seldom threw away their arrows, not
shooting till they were sure of doing so with effect. Occasionally a
single horseman would gallop up and brandish his spear, while he covered
himself with his large leathern shield, returning as fast as he went and
shouting: "Shields to the wall, you soldiers of the _gadado_! Why do
you not hasten to the wall?" Many of the soldiers answered: "You have a
large shield to cover you," and disregarded the call. At length the
troops habited in quilted armour were marched forward, having at a
distance a somewhat fine appearance, as their helmets were ornamented
with black and white ostrich feathers, while at the sides pieces of tin
glittered in the sun, their long, quilted cloaks of gaudy colours
reaching down to the horses' tails and hanging over their flanks. The
riders were armed with large spears, and they had to be assisted to
mount their horses. Their quilted cloaks were so heavy that it required
two men to mount a cavalier. Six of these warriors belonged to the
sultan and six to each governor.
The besieged possessed one musket, and with this they did wonderful
execution, for it brought down the van of the quilted cavaliers, who
fell from his horse like a sack of corn, when the footmen dashed forward
and dragged him and his steed out of harm's way. He had been shot by
two balls, which went through his body, one coming out and the other
lodging in his quilted armour. There were three Arabs, armed at all
points, one of whom was struck by the Coonia musket, but the others kept
carefully behind the sultan.
The most useful and bravest person was an old female slave of the
sultan, who, mounted astraddle on a long-backed horse, rode about with
half a dozen gourds filled with water, and a brass basin, from which she
supplied the wounded and thirsty.
In the evening this valiant army retired to their camp, when the Coonia
force managed to cut off the water from the stream which supplied it,
and then an alarm was raised that they were about to make an attack. On
this the whole army, horse and foot, tumbled over each other pell-mell,
trying who should get the soonest out of danger.
Clapperton had wisely not undressed, but, making his servant saddle his
horse and load his camels, he set off in the morning with the army,
which soon afterwards retreated and returned to Sackatoo.
Though his old Arab acquaintance called upon him and pretended to be
very friendly, they were plotting his destruction. Bello had also
received a letter from the Sultan of Bornou, warning him against the
machinations of the English. He likewise took steps to thwart the
traveller's objects, though he did not treat him with any personal
violence. When the chief people in the place found that their sultan
was no longer on friendly terms with the stranger, they also gave up
visiting him, and he was left very much alone. Bello likewise insisted
on seeing the letter which Clapperton was carrying to the King of
Bornou, and when his request was refused he seized it. He also by false
pretences induced Lander to come on to Sackatoo with the presents,
including several firearms which were intended for the King of Bornou,
that he might get them into his own possession.
This news preyed greatly on Clapperton's mind, besides which he caught a
dangerous chill from lying down while hunting, when overcome with heat
and fatigue, on a damp spot in the open air. He was soon afterwards
seized with dysentery, which rapidly reduced his strength. During his
illness he was watched over with the tenderest care by Richard Lander,
who was also himself suffering much from sickness.
Old Pasco, who had been dismissed at Kano for stealing, was at Lander's
suggestion forgiven, and greatly assisted their dying master.
The heat was intense, and Lander used to carry him to a couch outside
the hut, where he might enjoy the air, and return with him in the
evening. He also daily read to him some portions of the New Testament,
and the ninety-fifth Psalm, which he was never weary of listening to.
Twenty days he continued in this state, growing weaker and weaker. At
length he called his faithful servant to his bedside. "Richard, I shall
soon be no more: I feel myself dying."
Almost choked with grief, Lander replied: "God forbid, my dear master!
you will live many years yet."
"Don't be so much affected, my dear boy," said Clapperton. "It is the
will of the Almighty: it cannot be helped."
He then directed Lander how to dispose of his papers and all his
property, adding, as he took his faithful attendant's hand: "My dear
Richard, if you had not been with me I should have died long ago. I can
only thank you with my latest breath for your kindness and attachment to
me; but God will reward you."
During their conversation Clapperton fainted from weakness, but after
this appeared to rally, and for several days Lander's hopes revived; but
one morning he was alarmed by hearing a peculiar rattling sound
proceeding from his master's throat. At the same instant Clapperton
called out, "Richard!" in a low and hurried tone, when going to him,
Lander found him sitting upright in his bed, and staring wildly round.
Placing his master's head gently on his left shoulder, Lander gazed for
a moment at his pale and altered features. Some indistinct expressions
quivered on his lips, and, in the attempt to give them utterance, he
expired without a struggle or a sigh.
Having done all that under the circumstances was required, he sent to
the Sultan Bello for permission to bury his master; and, in return, an
officer arrived with four slaves, and Lander was desired to follow them.
Placing Clapperton's body on the back of his camel, and throwing the
Union Jack over it, he bade them proceed, and they conducted him to a
village, situated on rising ground, about five miles to the south-east
of Sackatoo--the village of Jungavie. Here a grave was dug; and the
faithful attendant, opening a prayer-book, read, amid showers of tears,
the funeral service over the remains of his beloved master.
Bello appeared to have regretted his treatment of the brave explorer.
He furnished Lander with the means of returning home, and gave him
permission either to proceed across the desert or to take any other
route. Lander, not wishing to trust the Arabs, determined to take the
route by which he had come, among the better-disposed negroes. He was
accompanied by old Pasco, who acted as his interpreter, and Mudey, a
black, who had always been faithful.
On reaching Kano he determined to proceed southward to Funda, where,
from the information he received, he hoped to be able to settle the
problem of the course of the Niger, to ascertain whether it from thence
flowed onward to the sea, or turned eastward into the interior of the
country, as by many it was supposed to do.
After travelling some distance he was warned that he would meet with a
mountainous region inhabited by cannibals, who would certainly put him
to death, and who were reported to have killed and eaten a whole caravan
a short time before.
On his way he passed through a large place called Cuttup, which
consisted of five hundred small villages clustered together. Here he
was well received by the king, whose numerous wives were highly
delighted when he made them a present of two or three gilt buttons from
his jacket, which they, imagining to be pure gold, fastened to their
ears.
He had reached the village of Dunrera near the large city of Tacoba, in
the neighbourhood of which the Shary was said to flow in a continuous
course between Funda and Lake Chad. This raised his spirits, and he was
expecting in ten or twelve days to solve the great problem, when, to his
dismay, four horsemen galloped into the town, their leader informing him
that the King of Zeg-zeg had sent to conduct him to Zaria.
Finding himself compelled to obey, he repaired to the capital, where the
king boasted that he had done him an essential service; for, as the
people of Funda were at war with Sultan Bello, they would certainly have
murdered him.
The king's chief object, however, was, it appears, to gratify his
curiosity, for, as he had been absent when Clapperton and Lander passed
through his capital, he had not before seen a white man. Lander was
well treated by the king's eldest son, a remarkably handsome young man
of two and twenty. As an especial mark of favour the prince introduced
him to his fifty wives, who were found industriously employed in
preparing cotton, making thread, and weaving it into cloth. They no
sooner saw him than, dropping their work, they flew off and hid
themselves. He here obtained a pack-bullock and a pony in lieu of his
asses, which were worn-out; and after some delay the king gave him
permission to proceed on his journey.
Leaving Zaria, he proceeded westward, along the route by which he had
come into the country.
Wherever he went inquiries were made about his father, as he was
supposed to be Clapperton's son, and every one expressed great grief at
hearing of his death.
The intelligence, courage, and resolution he exhibited, proved Lander to
be no ordinary person. He not only made his way among the various
tribes he had to pass through, but carried with him in safety a large
trunk, containing Clapperton's clothes and other property, three
watches, which he had secured about his person to preserve them from the
rapacity of Bello, and all his master's papers and journals, with which,
after a journey of nine months, accompanied by three blacks, he arrived
in safety at Badagarry.
From thence he was conveyed in the English brig "Maria" to Cape Coast,
whence he obtained a passage home in the "Esk," and arrived in England
on the 30th of April.
CHAPTER NINE.
JOURNEY OF THE LANDERS, AND THEIR VOYAGE DOWN THE NIGER, 1830.
THE BROTHERS REACH BADAGARRY--PROCEED INLAND TO KATUNGA--WELL RECEIVED
BY THE KING--REACH BOUSSA--THE WIDOW ZURNA--KIND-HEARTED KING--VISIT
YOURI--RECEPTION BY THE KING--OBTAIN RELICS OF PARK--THE DANCING
MONARCH--OBTAIN CANOES--BEGIN VOYAGE DOWN THE NIGER--GREAT WIDTH OF THE
RIVER AT LEECHEE--SLEET THE KING OF THE DARK WATER--A ROGUISH ARAB--
DETAINED BY MALLAM DENDOW--COMPELLED TO GIVE HIM PARK'S ROBE--REACH
EGGA--NO PRESENTS REMAINING--PASS MOUTH OF BINUE--THREATENED BY
NATIVES--DETAINED AT DAMUGGOO--ATTACKED BY PIRATICAL CANOES--JOHN LANDER
NEARLY DROWNED--PROPERTY SEIZED--RESCUED BY AN HONEST CHIEF--INHABITANTS
SIDE WITH THEM--JOURNALS LOST--CONTINUE VOYAGE--REACH EBOE--INTERVIEW
WITH OBIE, THE KING--HEAR OF ENGLISH AND SPANISH SHIPS IN THE RIVER--
CONVEYED DOWN THE RIVER BY KING BOY--REACH ENGLISH BRIG--BRUTAL CONDUCT
OF THE CAPTAIN--BRIG ESCAPES FROM THE RIVER--THE LANDERS SAIL FOR RIO DE
JANEIRO AND REACH ENGLAND.