Scott was somewhat recovered, Mr Anderson was in a very dangerous
state. He struggled on, however, for another day, when, after he had
passed a number of sick men, Mr Anderson declared that he could ride no
further. Park, having turned the horses and ass to feed, sat down in
the shade to watch the pulsations of his dying friend. In the evening,
there being a fine breeze, Mr Anderson agreed to make another attempt
to move on, in the hopes of reaching a town before dark. They had not
proceeded above a mile, when they heard a noise very much like the bark
of a large mastiff, but ending in a hiss like that of a cat. Mr
Anderson was observing: "What a bouncing fellow that must be," when
another bark nearer to them was heard, and presently a third,
accompanied by a growl a short distance further. Coming to an opening
in the bushes, three enormous lions of a dusky colour were seen bounding
over the long grass, abreast of each other, towards them. Fearing that,
should they come near, and his piece miss fire, the lions would seize
them, Park advanced and shot at the centre one. The animals stopped,
looked at each other, and then bounded away, and, though one again
stopped while he was loading his piece, they all disappeared. The
lions, however, followed him; but Mr Anderson having a boatswain's
call, Park took it and whistled, and made as much noise as possible, so
that they did not again molest him. Notwithstanding Mr Anderson's
reduced condition he persevered in travelling, and, being placed in a
hammock constructed out of a cloak, was carried along by two men. Mr
Scott, however, complaining of sickness, shortly afterwards dropped
behind.
On entering Doomblia during heavy rain, greatly to his satisfaction Park
met Kafa Taura, the worthy negro merchant who had been so kind to him on
his former journey. He had now come a considerable distance to see him.
From hence he sent back to enquire for Mr Scott, but no information
could be obtained about him.
On the 19th of August the sad remnant of the expedition ascended the
mountainous ridge which separates the Niger from the remote branches of
the Senegal. Mr Park hastened on ahead, and, coming to the brow of the
hill, once more saw the mighty river making its way in a broad stream
through the plain.
Descending from thence towards Bambakoo, the travellers pitched their
tents under a tree near that town.
Of the thirty-four soldiers and four carpenters who left the Gambia,
only six soldiers and one carpenter reached the Niger, three having died
during the previous day's march.
As the only canoe Park could obtain would carry but two persons besides
their goods, he and Mr Anderson embarked in it, leaving Mr Martyn and
the men to come down by land with the asses. He himself was suffering
greatly from dysentery. In the evening they landed on some flat rocks
near the shore, and were cooking their supper, when the rain came down,
and continued with great violence all night.
The next day Mr Martyn and the rest of the people overtook them.
On the following day Isaaco, having performed the task he had
undertaken, of guiding them to the Niger, received the payment agreed
on; and Park likewise gave him several articles, and told him that when
the palaver was adjusted at Sego, he should have all the horses and
asses for his trouble.
He here also prepared the present he purposed to offer to Mansong, the
king of Bambarra, and which he sent forward to Sego by Isaaco.
Every day brought them some unfavourable news or other. At one time it
was reported that Mansong had killed Isaaco with his own hand, and
threatened to do the same with all the whites who should come into
Bambarra. These reports proved to be false, for Isaaco himself arrived
in a canoe from Sego, bringing back all the articles sent to Mansong,
who had directed that they should be taken up to Samee, and that he
would send a person to receive them from Park's own hands. Mansong had
promised that the expedition should pass, but whenever Isaaco mentioned
it particularly, or related any incident that had happened on the
journey, Mansong began to make squares and triangles in the sand before
him with his finger, and continued to do so as long as Isaaco spoke
about them. This the superstitious monarch probably did to defend
himself against the supposed incantations of the white man.
On the 22nd of September the chief counsellor of Mansong, Modibinne, and
four grandees, arrived by a canoe, bringing a fat milk-white bullock as
a present. Next morning Modibinne and the grandees came to the camp and
desired Park to acquaint them with the motives which had induced him to
come into their country. Park explained them, telling them that it was
his wish to sail down the Joliba, or Niger, to the place where it mixes
with the salt water, and that if the navigation was found open, the
white men would send up vessels to trade at Sego, should Mansong wish
it. Modibinne replied that the object of the journey was a good one,
and prayed that God would prosper it, adding, "Mansong will protect
you."
The presents intended for the king were then spread out, and appeared to
give great satisfaction. Two more soldiers died that evening. On the
26th the expedition, in open canoes, left Samee. Park felt himself very
unwell, and the heat was intense, sufficient to have roasted a sirloin.
Isaaco, however, having formed an awning over the canoe with four sticks
and a couple of cloaks, Park found himself better.
On the 2nd two other privates died, the body of one of whom the wolves
carried off, the door of the hut having been left open.
Wishing to obtain cowries, Park opened a market at Marroboo to dispose
of his goods, and so great was the demand for them that he had to employ
three tellers at once to count his cash. In one day he turned 25,756
pieces of money-cowries.
The sad news now reached him of the Mr Scott's death, and on the 28th
of October his brother-in-law, Mr Anderson, breathed his last. "No
event," Park remarks, "which took place during the journey ever threw
the smallest gloom over his mind till he laid Mr Anderson in the grave.
He then felt himself left a second time lonely and friendless amidst
the wilds of Africa."
Some days before this, Isaaco had returned with a large canoe, but much
decayed and patched. Park, therefore, with the assistance of Bolton,
one of the surviving soldiers, took out all the rotten pieces, and, by
adding on the portion of another canoe, with eighteen days' hard labour
they changed the Bambarra canoe into his Majesty's schooner "Joliba."
Her length was forty feet, breadth six feet; and, being flat-bottomed,
she drew only one foot of water when loaded. In this craft he and his
surviving companions embarked on the 16th of November, on which day his
journal closes. He intended next morning to commence his adventurous
voyage down the Joliba. Besides Park and Lieutenant Martyn, two
Europeans only survived. They had purchased three slaves to assist in
the navigation of the vessel, and Isaaco had engaged Amadi Fatouma to
succeed him as interpreter. This increased their number to nine.
Descending the stream, they passed the Silla and Jenne without
molestation; but lower down, in the neighbourhood of Timbuctoo, they
were followed by armed canoes, which they beat off, killing several of
the natives. They had, indeed, to fight their way down past a number of
places, once striking on the rocks, and being nearly overset by a
hippopotamus which rose near them.
Having a large stock of provisions, they were able to proceed without
going on shore. Amadi was the only person who landed in order to get
fresh provisions.
At Yaour Park sent a present to the king by one of the chiefs, but, the
chief inquiring whether he intended to return, Park replied that he had
no purpose of doing so. This induced the chief to withhold the presents
from the king, and who, accordingly, indignant at being thus treated,
put Amadi into irons, took all his goods from him, and sent a force to
occupy a rock overhanging the river where it narrows greatly. On
arriving at this place, Park endeavoured to pass through, when the
people began to throw lances and stones at him. He and his companions
defended themselves for a long time, till two of his slaves in the stern
of the boat were killed.
Finding no hopes of escape, Park took hold of one of the white men and
jumped into the water, and Martyn did the same, hoping to reach the
shore, but were drowned in the attempt. The only slave remaining in the
boat, seeing the natives persist in throwing their weapons, entreated
them to stop. On this they took possession of the canoe and the man,
and carried them to the king. Amadi, after being kept in irons three
months, was liberated, and on finding the slave who had been taken in
the canoe, learned from him the manner in which Mr Park and his
companions had perished. The only article left in the canoe had been a
sword-belt, which Isaaco, who was afterwards despatched to learn
particulars of the tragedy, obtained--the sole relic of the expedition.
Park could not have been aware of the numerous rapids and other
difficulties he would have had to encounter on descending the upper
portion of the Niger. In all probability his frail and ill-constructed
vessel would have been wrecked before he had proceeded many miles below
the spot where he lost his life. Had he, however, succeeded in passing
that dangerous portion, he might have navigated the mighty stream to its
mouth.
Although at first the account of Park's death was not believed in
England, subsequent enquiries left no doubt that all the statements were
substantially correct.
Thus perished, in the prime of life, that heroic traveller, at the very
time when he had good reason to believe that he was about to solve the
problem of the Niger's course.
CHAPTER FIVE.
TRAVELS OF DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON.
PRECEDED BY HORNEMAN--ROENTGEN--TUCKEY AND OTHERS--MAJOR LAING'S
JOURNEY--LIEUTENANT CLAPPERTON AND DR. OUDNEY, JOINED BY MAJOR DENHAM,
LEAVE TRIPOLI--DIFFICULTIES WITH THE PACHA--DENHAM SAILS FOR ENGLAND--
THE PACHA SENDS AFTER HIM--BOO-KHALOUM APPOINTED CONDUCTOR--JOURNEY
ACROSS THE DESERT--ILLNESS OF CLAPPERTON AND OUDNEY--NUMBERLESS
SKELETONS OF SLAVES--ARABS' ILL-TREATMENT OF THE NATIVES--LAKE CHAD--
EMPIRE OF BORNOU--RECEPTION AT KOUKA BY THE SHEIKH--BODY-GUARD OF THE
SHEIKH--BARCA GANA, HIS GENERAL--VISIT TO THE SULTAN OF BIRNIE--ELEPHANT
AND BUFFALO HUNTING--DENHAM JOINS AN EXPEDITION UNDER BACA GANA--MEET
THE SULTAN OF MANDARA--ATTACK ON THE FELATAHS--DENHAM NEARLY LOSES HIS
LIFE--BOO-KHALOUM KILLED--BARCA GANA'S TROOPS TAKE TO FLIGHT--THE MAJOR
KINDLY TREATED BY A DEPOSED PRINCE--RETURNS TO KOUKA.
Between Park's two expeditions, several travellers endeavoured to solve
some of the many problems connected with the geography of Africa.
The first person sent out by the Association was a young German,
Frederick Horneman, in the character of an Arab merchant. He travelled
from Alexandria to Cairo, where he was imprisoned by the natives on the
news arriving of Bonaparte's landing in the country. He was, however,
liberated by the French, and set out on the 5th of September, 1798, with
a caravan destined for Fezzan.
On one occasion, when passing through Siwah, the bigoted Mahommedan
inhabitants surrounded the caravan, having heard that two Christians
belonged to it, and promising to let it proceed provided these were
delivered up to them. Having, however, by his knowledge of the Koran,
satisfied them that he was a true Mahommedan, being protected by the
other members of the caravan, he was allowed to proceed.
He reached Mourzouk in safety, and there endeavoured to gain information
about the states to the south of Timbuctoo. He, however, heard but
little, though he found that Houssa was not, as supposed, a city, but a
region embracing many kingdoms, the inhabitants of which were said to be
superior in civilisation to those of the surrounding people.
He remained here for a considerable time, and then visited Tripoli,
after which he returned to Mourzouk, and started thence in April, 1800.
From that time no information was received directly from him; but Major
Denham many years afterwards learned that he had penetrated as far as
Nyffe on the Niger, where he fell a victim to disease.
Another German, Roentgen, also sent out by the Association in 1809,
started from Mogadore and, it is supposed, was murdered by his guides.
Two Americans, one a seaman, named Adams, and the other a supercargo,
James, having been wrecked on the west coast at different periods,
travelled for a considerable distance through the north-west portion of
the continent. Adams was carried to Timbuctoo, where he remained six
months in 1810. He found the city chiefly inhabited by negroes; and he
describes the few religious ceremonies which took place as pagan. The
city had lately been conquered by the king of Bambarra, who had
established there a negro government. Even the largest houses were
little more than huts, built of timber frames filled in with earth. He
was ultimately liberated by the British consul at Mogadore.
Riley, who was wrecked in 1815, was carried as a slave through the
country. From a caravan merchant, Sidi Hamet, who purchased him from
his first captors, he obtained much information about the country. From
the account he received, it appears at that time that Timbuctoo was
larger and better built than Adams described it. Sidi Hamet also
travelled a considerable distance down the banks of the Niger, which,
though at first running due east, afterwards turned to the south-east.
Travelling sixty days, he reached Wassanah, a place twice as large as
Timbuctoo, the inhabitants being hospitable and kind-hearted. From
thence he heard that boats with cargoes of slaves sailed two months,
first south and then west, down the river, till they came to the sea,
where they met white people in vessels armed with guns. This was the
most correct account hitherto received of the course of the Niger.
Riley was also rescued by the English consul at Mogadore.
In 1816 the English Government sent out an expedition to proceed up the
Congo, under Captain Tuckey, but he and his followers fell victims to
the climate.
At the same time another expedition had started under Major Peddie, and
Captain Campbell, but they both, with Lieutenant Stokoe, of the navy,
died the following year.
In 1821 Major Laing, starting from Sierra Leone, made a journey in
search of the source of the Niger, but was compelled to return.
In 1819 Mr Ritchie, with Lieutenant Lyon, of the navy, started from
Tripoli, intending to proceed southward to Bornou, in order to trace the
downward course of the Niger, but Mr Ritchie died, and Lieutenant Lyon
was unable to get further than the southern frontier of Fezzan.
Owing to the judicious conduct of Mr Warrington, the British Consul at
Tripoli, the English were held in high estimation at that court, and the
pacha, who was looked upon by the wild tribes of the south as the most
potent of all monarchs, assured him that any of his countrymen could
travel with perfect safety from his territories to Bornou.
The Government, therefore, considering circumstances so favourable,
organised a fresh expedition, headed by Lieutenant Clapperton and Dr
Oudney, of the Navy. Major Denham having volunteered his services, they
were accepted, and he joined his intended companions at Tripoli. He was
accompanied by Mr Hillman, a shipwright, who undertook to direct the
building of a vessel on the Niger.
After visiting the pacha, and having accompanied him on a hawking party
in the desert, Major Denham set out on the 5th of March, 1822, to join
his two companions, who had gone forward to the beautiful valley of
Memoom.
When near Sockna, they met a _kafila_, or caravan of slaves, in which
were about seventy negroes, who told them that they came from the
different regions of Soudan, Begharmi, and Kanem. Those from Soudan had
regular features and a pleasing expression of countenance.
On reaching Mourzouk they were disappointed in their expectation of
receiving assistance from the sultan, who declared that it was
impossible to obtain either camels or horses before the next spring, to
enable them to proceed. Finding this, Major Denham determined to return
to Tripoli, to represent to the pacha that something besides mere
promises must be given.
Attended by his negro servant, Barca, he reached that town on the 12th
of June, and the pacha himself showing little inclination to render
assistance, he at once started for England, to represent the state of
affairs to the Government. He was, however, overtaken at Marseilles by
a messenger from the pacha entreating him to return, and assuring him
that he had appointed a well-known caravan leader, Boo-Khaloum, with an
escort to convey him to Bornou.
On his return to Africa he found Boo-Khaloum and part of the escort
already waiting for him at the entrance of the desert. His new friend
delighted in pomp and show, and he and his attendants entered Sockna
attired in magnificent costumes, their chief himself riding a beautiful
Tunisian horse, the saddle and housing richly adorned with scarlet cloth
and gold. This African caravan merchant united the character of a
warlike chief and trader, his followers being trained not only to fight
in defence of his property, but to attack towns and carry off the
hapless inhabitants as slaves. Yet Book-Haloum was superior to most of
his age; he possessed an enlarged and liberal mind, and was considered
an honourable and humane man, while so great was his generosity that he
was adored by his people.
On the 30th of October the caravan entered Mourzouk with all the parade
and pomp they could muster. Boo-Khaloum's liberality had made him so
popular that a large portion of the inhabitants of the town came out to
welcome him.
Major Denham was greatly disappointed at not seeing his friends among
the crowd. He found that Dr Oudney was suffering from a complaint in
his chest, and that Clapperton was confined to his bed; indeed the
climate of Mourzouk is evidently very unhealthy.
The arrangements for starting were not completed until the 29th of
November. In the meantime the other members of the expedition had
somewhat recovered. Major Denham had engaged a native of the Island of
Saint Vincent, of the name of Simpkins, but who, having traversed half
the world over, had acquired that of Columbus. He spoke Arabic
perfectly, and three European languages. Three negroes were also hired,
and a Gibraltar Jew, Jacob, who acted as store-keeper. These, with four
men to look after their camels, Mr Hillman and themselves, made up
their household to thirteen persons. Several merchants also joined
their party. Besides these, the caravan comprised one hundred and ten
Arabs, marshalled in tens and twenties under their different chiefs.
The Arabs in the service of the pacha, who were to escort them to
Bornou, behaved admirably, and enlivened them greatly on their dreary
desert road by their wit and sagacity, as well as by their poetry,
extemporary and traditional.
The camels and tents having been sent on before, the party started on
horseback on the evening of the day mentioned. Dr Oudney was suffering
from his cough, and neither Clapperton nor Hillman had got over their
ague, a bad condition in which to commence their arduous journey.
The heat when crossing the desert was great; not a bird nor an insect
was to be seen moving through the air; but the nights were beautiful and
perfectly still, gentle breezes cooling the air. By digging a few
inches into the hot, loose soil, a cool and soft bed was obtained.
Through wide districts the surface was covered with salt, and from the
sides of hollows where it was broken, hung beautiful crystals like the
finest frost-work.
Before proceeding far, objects sufficient to create the deepest horror
in their minds were met with. In all directions the ground was covered
with the skeletons of those who had perished in attempting to cross the
wilderness. At first only one or two were seen, but afterwards as many
as fifty or sixty were passed in a day. At one place a hundred were
found together, and near the wells of El Hammar they were lying too
thickly to be counted. One morning as Denham, dozing on his horse, was
riding, he was startled by a peculiar sound of something crashing under
the animal's feet, and, on looking down, he found that he was trampling
over two human skeletons, one of the horse's feet having driven a skull
before him like a ball. To some of the bones portions of the flesh and
hair still adhered, and the features of others were distinguishable.
Two skeletons of females lay close together, who had evidently died in
each other's arms.
The Arabs, accustomed to such scenes, laughed at the sympathy exhibited
by the English, observing, with a curse on their fathers, that they were
only blacks. There can be no doubt that the larger group consisted of a
number of slaves captured by the Sultan of Fezzan, during a late
expedition he had made into Soudan. His troops, having left Bornou with
an insufficient supply of provisions, allowed their unhappy captives to
perish, while they made their escape with the food intended to support
them.
One evening the major exhibited a book of drawings made by Captain Lyon,
to Boo-Khaloum. The portraits he understood, but he could not
comprehend the landscapes, and would look at one upside down. On seeing
a beautiful print of sand-wind in the desert, though it was twice
reversed, he exclaimed: "Why, it is all the same!" Probably a European,
even, who had never before cast his eye on the representation of a
landscape, would be long before he could appreciate the beauties of the
picture. One beautiful moonlight evening Denham exhibited his
telescope. An old _hadji_, after he had been helped to fix the glass on
the moon, uttering an exclamation of wonder, walked off as fast as he
could, repeating words from the Koran.
Few adventures were met with; but one whole day the travellers were
annoyed by a strong east wind, and the next day the wind and drifting
sand were so violent that they were compelled to keep their tents. They
had to sit in their shirts, as the sand could thus be shaken off as soon
as it made a lodgment, which with any other articles of dress could not
be done. Denham found the greatest relief by rubbing the neck and
shoulders with oil, and being shampooed by his servant, Barca's wife,
who, when a slave in the palace of the pacha, had learned the art.
The Tibboos, a tribe who had for some time accompanied them, went off to
obtain some sheep, an ox, honey, milk and fat. On their return the milk
turned out sour camels' milk, full of sand, and the fat very rancid,
while a single lean sheep was purchased for two dollars.
Some of their horses were very handsome and extremely fat, which arose
from being fed entirely on camels' milk, corn being too scarce for the
Tibboos to spare them.
The girls of this tribe were pretty, but the men extremely ugly.
Their Arabs, who were sent as an escort to oppose banditti, after a time
became dissatisfied at having nothing to do, and were evidently
contemplating inroads on the inhabitants.
Denham, with Boo-Khaloum and a dozen horsemen, each having a footman
behind him, started off towards a spot where some Tibboo tents had been
seen. On their arrival they found that the shepherds had moved off,
knowing well how they should be treated by the white people, as they
called the Arabs. Their caution was made the excuse for plundering
them. "What! not stay to sell their sheep? the rogues!" exclaimed the
Arabs.