twenty persons--men, women and children--with camels, moving off. The
Arabs, slipping from behind their leaders, with a shout, rushed down the
hill, part running towards the cattle to prevent their escape. The
unfortunate people were rapidly plundered, the camels were brought to
the ground and the whole of their loads rifled. The poor women and
girls lifted up their hands, stripped as they were to the skin, but
Denham felt that he could do nothing for them beyond saving their lives.
When Boo-Khaloum came up, however, he seemed ashamed of the paltry booty
his followers had obtained, and Denham seized the favourable moment to
advise that the Arabs should give everything back, and have a few sheep
and an ox for a feast. He gave the order, and the property was
restored, with the exception of ten sheep and a fat bullock.
An old _maraboot_ assured Denham that to plunder those who left their
tents, instead of supplying travellers, was quite lawful. Too often the
natives are not only plundered, but murdered, by the armed attendants of
caravans as they make their way across the desert.
The natives, as may be supposed, retaliate. Should any animal straggle
from the main body, it is certain to be carried off. Major Denham lost
a favourite dog, which was captured and eaten.
On reaching Lara, a small town of conical-topped rush huts, to the
delight of the travellers they saw before them, from a rising ground,
the boundless expanse of Lake Chad, glowing with the golden rays of the
sun. They hastened down to the shores of this large inland sea, which
was darkened with numberless birds of varied plumage--ducks, geese,
pelicans and cranes four or five feet high, immense spoonbills of snowy
whiteness, yellow-legged plovers--all quietly feeding at half
pistol-shot. A large basket to supply their larder was soon filled.
Moving along the shores of the lake, the caravan arrived at Woodie, a
negro town of considerable size. It was here arranged that the caravan
should wait till an embassy could be sent to the Sheikh of Bornou, to
obtain permission for presenting themselves before him.
The empire of Bornou had, some twenty years before, been overrun and
subjected by the Felatahs, a powerful people to the west. The present
sheikh, a native of Kanem, though of humble birth, had by his superior
talents and energy rallied round him a band of warriors, and, pretending
that he had received a command from the prophet, hoisted the green flag,
and had in a few months driven the invaders out of the country, which
they had never since been able to occupy, though frequently attacking
his borders.
While waiting for the sheikh's reply, Major Denham rode out early one
morning in search of a herd of a hundred and fifty elephants, which had
been seen the day before. He found them about six miles from the town,
on ground annually overflowed by the waters of the lake. They seemed to
cover the whole face of the country, and exceeded the number he expected
to see. Often, when forced by hunger, they approach the towns and
spread devastation throughout their march, whole plantations being
destroyed in a single night. Some antelopes were also seen, but they
never allowed the party to get near enough to hazard a shot.
The country for the last eighteen days of their journey had been covered
with a grass which produces a calyx full of prickles. These adhere to
the dress and penetrate to the skin, to which they fasten themselves
like grappling-irons. They got between the toes of the poor dog Niger,
and into every part of his long silken hair, so as to make him unable to
walk.
At the next camping-place hyaenas came close to their tents and killed a
camel, on the carcase of which a lion, when he had driven them away,
banqueted, when they returned and devoured what he had left.
Several days' journey took the caravan into the neighbourhood of Kouka.
They had been told that the sheikh's soldiers were a few ragged negroes,
armed with spears, who lived upon the plunder of the black Kaffir
countries. Greatly to their astonishment, as they approached the town
they beheld a body of several thousand cavalry, drawn up in line and
extending right and left as far as they could see.
As the Arabs approached, a yell was given by the sheikhs people, which
rent the air; and a blast being blown from their rude instruments, they
moved on to meet Boo-Khaloum and his Arabs. Small bodies kept charging
rapidly towards them, to within a few feet of their horses' heads,
without checking the speed of their own until the moment of their
halting; then they wheeled at their utmost speed with great precision,
shaking their spears over their heads, exclaiming, "_Baka_ _baka_!"
("Blessing! blessing!") They quickly, however, surrounded the caravan so
as to prevent it moving on, which greatly enraged Boo-Khaloum, but to no
purpose, as he was only answered by shrieks of welcome, and spears
unpleasantly rattled over the traveller's heads. In a short time, Barca
Gana, the sheikh's first general--a negro of noble aspect, clothed in a
figured silk _tobe_, mounted on a beautiful Mandara horse--made his
appearance, and cleared away those who had pressed upon them, when the
party moved on slowly towards the city.
Arrived at the gates, Boo-Khaloum, with the English and about a dozen of
his followers, alone were allowed to enter. They proceeded along a wide
street completely lined with spearmen on foot, with cavalry in front of
them, to the door of the sheikh's residence. Here the horsemen were
formed up three deep, and the party halted while some of the chief's
attendants came out and, after a great many "_Baka's! baka's_!" retired,
when others performed the same ceremony. On this, Boo-Khaloum again
lost patience, and swore by the pacha's head that he would return to his
tents, if he was not immediately admitted. Denham advised him to
submit, and Barca Gana, appearing, invited him to dismount. The English
were about to do the same, when an officer intimated that the Arab alone
was to be admitted.
Another half-hour, and the gates were again opened, and the four
Englishmen were called for. The strictest etiquette appeared to be kept
up at the sheikh's court; but the major and his companions declined
doing more in the way of reverence than bending their heads and laying
their right-hands on their hearts. They found the sheikh sitting on a
carpet, in a small, dark room. He was plainly dressed in a blue _tobe_
of Soudan and a small turban, with armed negroes on either side of him,
and weapons hung up on the walls. His personal appearance was
prepossessing, and he had an expressive countenance and a benevolent
smile.
After he had received the letter from the pacha, he enquired what was
their object in coming. They answered, to see the country and to give
an account of its inhabitants, produce and appearance, as their sultan
was desirous of knowing every part of the globe. His reply was that
they were welcome, and whatever he could show them would give him
pleasure.
Huts had been built for them and an abundance of provisions was
provided, though the number of their visitors gave them not a moment's
peace, while the heat was insufferable.
Next day they had another audience, to deliver their presents. With the
firearms, especially, the sheikh was highly delighted, and he showed
evident satisfaction on their assuring him that the king of England had
heard of Bornou and himself. Immediately turning to his councillors, he
observed: "This is in consequence of our defeating the Begharmis." Upon
this the chief who had most distinguished himself in this memorable
battle, Bagah Furby, demanded: "Did he ever hear of me?" The reply of
"Certainly!" did wonders for their cause. "Ah, then your king must be a
great man!" was re-echoed from every side.
Every morning, besides presents of bullocks, camel-loads of wheat and
rice, leather skins of butter, jars of honey, and wooden bowls
containing rice with meat, and paste made of barley flour--savoury, but
very greasy--were sent to them.
In a short time--by the exhibition of rockets, a musical box, and other
wonders--Denham appeared to have entirely won the sheikh's confidence.
Reports, however, had been going about that the English had come to spy
out the land, and intended to build ships on Lake Chad, in which they
would sail about and conquer the surrounding country. Reports were now
received that the Begharmis were approaching Bornou, and it was said
that the sheikh would immediately send a force into their country, in
order to punish their sultan for even thinking of revenge.
The sheikh, in the meantime, had given them leave to visit all the towns
in his dominions, but on no account to go beyond them. He asked many
questions about the English manner of attacking a walled town; and, on
hearing that they had guns which carried ball of thirty-two pounds'
weight, with which the walls were breached, and that then the place was
taken by assault, his large dark eyes sparkled again, as he exclaimed:
"Wonderful! wonderful!"
Although the sheikh was the real ruler of the country, he allowed the
existence of the hereditary sultan, a mere puppet, who resided at
Birnie. Boo-Khaloum advised that they should pay their respects to this
sovereign; and they accordingly set out for the place, which contained
about ten thousand inhabitants. They were first conducted to the gate
of the sultan's mud edifice, where a few of the court were assembled to
receive them. One, a sort of chamberlain, habited in eight or ten
_tobes_, or shirts, of different colours, carried an immense staff, and
on his head was a turban of prodigious size, though but a trifling one
compared to those they were destined to see at the audience on the
following morning. A large marquee was pitched for their reception,
which they found luxuriously cool. In the evening a plentiful repast
was brought them, consisting of seventy dishes, each of which would have
dined half-a-dozen persons with moderate appetites; and for fear the
English should not eat like the Bornouy, a slave or two arrived loaded
with live fowls for their dinner.
Soon after daylight the next morning they were summoned to attend the
sultan. He received them in an open space in front of the royal
residence. They were compelled to stop at a considerable distance from
him, while his own people approached to within about a hundred yards,
passing first on horseback, and, after dismounting and prostrating
themselves before him, they took their places on the ground in front,
but with their backs to the royal person. He was seated in a sort of
cage made of cane, on a throne which appeared to be covered with silk or
satin. Nothing could be more absurd and grotesque than the figures who
formed his court. The sheikh, to make himself popular with all parties,
allowed the sultan to be amused by indulging in all the folly and
bigotry of the ancient negro sovereigns. Large bellies and large heads
are considered the proper attributes of the courtiers, and those who do
not possess the former by nature, make up the deficiency of protuberance
by a wadding, which, as they sit on horseback, gives them a most
extraordinary appearance, while the head is enveloped in folds of muslin
or linen of various colours, of such size as to make the head appear
completely on one side. The turbans are, besides, hung all-over with
charms enclosed in little red leather bags. The horse is also adorned
in the same manner.
When the courtiers had taken their seats, the visitors were desired to
sit down. On this, the ugliest black that can be imagined, the only
person who approached the sultan's seat, asked for the presents.
Boo-Khaloum produced them, enclosed in a large shawl, and they were
carried unopened into the presence of the sultan. The English, by some
omission, had brought no presents.
A little to their left was an extemporary declaimer, shouting forth the
praises of his master, with his pedigree, and near him stood a man with
a long, wooden trumpet, on which he ever and anon blew a blast.
Nothing could be more ridiculous than the appearance of these people,
squatting down in their places, tottering under the weight and magnitude
of their turbans and their bellies, while the thin legs that appeared
underneath but ill accorded with the bulk of the other part.
Immediately after the ceremony the travellers took their departure for
Angornou, a town containing at least thirty thousand inhabitants. The
market-place was crowded with people, and there were a number of
beggars. Linen was so cheap that all the men wore shirts and trousers;
but the beggars were seen holding up the arms of an old pair of the
latter, touching the shirt at the same time, and exclaiming: "But
breeches there are none; but breeches there are none." This novel mode
of drawing the attention of the passers-by so amused Denham that he
could not help laughing outright.
He was, however, anxious to visit a large river to the southward of
Kouka, called the Shary; but was delayed by Dr Oudney's serious
illness, and the unsettled state of Book-Haloum's affairs with the
Arabs; indeed, so mutinous had some of these become, that he was at last
compelled to send thirty of them back again to Fezzan.
Hillman had greatly pleased the sheikh by manufacturing a couple of
chests, and he was now requested to make a sort of litter, such as the
sheikh had heard were used by the sultans of Fezzan.
Among other presents, the sheikh sent them a young lion about three
months old. It was a tame, good-natured creature, but as Denham was
under the necessity of refusing the animal a corner of his hut, it was
immediately in consequence killed.
During the illness of his companions Major Denham made an excursion to
the shores of Lake Chad, accompanied by Maraymy, an intelligent black,
to whose charge he had been committed by the sheikh, where numerous
elephants and some beautiful antelopes were seen. The sheikh's people,
as they came near the elephants, began screeching violently. The
animals, though moving a little away, erected their ears, and gave a
roar that shook the ground under them. One was an immense fellow. The
party wheeled swiftly round him, and Maraymy casting a spear at him,
which struck him just under the tail, the huge brute threw up his
proboscis in the air with a loud roar, and from it cast such a volume of
sand as nearly to blind the major, who was approaching at the time.
The elephant rarely if ever attacks, but, when irritated, he will
sometimes rush upon a man on horseback, and, after choking him with
dust, destroy him in a moment.
Pursued by the horsemen, the animal made off at a clumsy, rolling walk,
but sufficient to keep the steeds at a full gallop. The major fired
twice at fifty yards' distance. The first shot which struck the animal
failed to make the least impression, and the second, though wounding him
in the ear, seemed to give him a moment's uneasiness only. After
another spear had been darted at him, which flew off his rough hide
without exciting the least sensation, the elephant made his escape.
The Shooas, the original inhabitants of the country, are great hunters.
Mounted on horseback, a Shooa hunter seeks the buffalo in the swampy
regions near the lake, and, driving the animal he has selected to the
firm ground, rides on till he gets close alongside, when, springing up,
he stands with one foot on his horse and the other on the back of the
buffalo, through which he plunges his spear, driving it with tremendous
force into its heart.
Denham heard of people called Kerdies, who inhabited islands far away in
the eastern part of the lake. They frequently make plundering
excursions even close up to Angornou, and carry off cattle and people in
their canoes, no means being taken to oppose them.
The sheikh was very unwilling that his white visitor should cross the
Shary, for fear of the danger he would run.
At length an opportunity occurred of seeing the country, which Denham
determined not to let slip. Boo-Khaloum, though sorely against his
will, had been induced by his Arabs to plan an expedition against the
pagan inhabitants of some villages in the mountains of Mandara, in order
to carry them off as slaves to Fezzan. He, wishing rather to visit the
commercial regions of Soudan, long held out against these nefarious
proposals. The sheikh, who wished to punish the people who were
constantly in arms against him, instigated the Arabs to induce
Boo-Khaloum to undertake the expedition, and at length, believing that
by no other means could he hope to make a profitable journey, he was
induced to comply. The sheikh, however, was unwilling that Major Denham
should be exposed to the dangers he would meet with, but, as he had
determined to go, at last gave his consent, appointing Maraymy to attend
him, and to be answerable for his safety.
Boo-Khaloum and his Arabs, with the sheikh's forces under his general,
Barca Gana, had already got some distance ahead. Accompanied by
Maraymy, Denham overtook them when several miles from the city, and was
received with great civility by Barca Gana in his tent. He had been
kept some minutes outside while the general consulted his charm writer,
and his remark as he entered was: "If it was the will of God, the
stranger should come to no harm, and that he would do all in his power
for his convenience."
Barca Gana had about two thousand of the sheikh's soldiers under his
command. He was himself, however, only a slave, but from his bravery
had been raised by his master to the rank of Governor of Angala and all
the towns on the Shary, as well as that of commander-in-chief of his
troops. He was accompanied by several guards of horse and foot, and a
band of five men, three of whom carried a sort of drum, who sang
extemporary songs while they beat time; another carried a pipe made of a
reed, and a fifth blew on a buffalo's horn loud and deep-toned blasts.
As he advanced through the forest he was preceded by twelve pioneers,
who carried long forked poles, with which they kept back the branches as
the party moved forward; at the same time they pointed out any dangers
in the road.
The heat was intense. Into a lake at which they arrived the horses
rushed by hundreds, making the water as thick as pea-soup. As the
major's camel had not come up, he could not pitch his tent, and he was
compelled to lie down in the best shade he could find, and cover himself
completely with a cloth and a thick woollen bournous, to keep up a
little moisture, by excluding all external air.
After several days' march they arrived near the capital of Mandara,
whose sultan sent out several of his chiefs to meet them. Near the town
of Delow the sultan himself appeared, surrounded by about five hundred
horsemen. Different parties of these troops charged up to the front of
Barca Gana's forces, and, wheeling suddenly round, galloped back again.
They were handsomely dressed in Soudan _tobes_ of different colours--
dark blue and striped with yellow and red; bournouses of coarse scarlet
cloth, with large turbans of white or dark-coloured cotton. Their
horses were really beautiful--larger and more powerful than any seen in
Bornou. They managed them with great skill.
A parley was now carried on. This sultan was an ally of the sheikh, but
the people who were to be attacked were his own subjects, though, as
they were pagans, that mattered nothing.
Boo-Khaloum was, as usual, very sanguine of success. He said he should
make the sultan handsome presents, and that he was quite sure a Kerdie
or pagan town full of people would be given him to plunder.
The Arabs eyed the Kerdie huts, now visible on the sides of the
mountains, with longing eyes, and, contrasting their own ragged
condition with the appearance of the Sultan of Mandara's people in their
rich _tobes_, observed to Book-Haloum that what they saw pleased them;
they would go no further; this would do. They trusted for victory to
their guns--though many were wretched weapons, and their powder was
bad--declaring that arrows were nothing, and ten thousand spears of no
importance. "We have guns! we have guns!" they shouted. They were soon
to find that they made a fearful mistake.
The Sultan of Mandara had assisted the Sheikh Kanemy in driving out the
Felatahs, and, since then, supported by his powerful ally, had risen
greatly in power. The Felatahs, indeed, were his principal enemies in
the neighbourhood, and he was only waiting for such an expedition as now
joined him to attack them.
The unfortunate Kerdies, who believed that they themselves were the
objects of the raid, beheld with dread the army of Barca Gana
bivouacking in the valley. The fires, which were visible in the
different nests of the hapless mountaineers, threw a glare on the bold
peaks and bluff promontories of granite rock by which they were
surrounded, and produced a picturesque and somewhat awful appearance.
Denham could distinguish many of them through his telescope, making off
into the mountains, while others came down bearing leopard-skins, honey,
and slaves as peace offerings, as also asses and goats, with which the
mountains abound. They, however, on this occasion, were not destined to
suffer. The people of Musgu, whose country it had been reported that
the Arabs were to plunder, sent two hundred slaves and other presents to
the sultan. As they entered and left the palace they threw themselves
on the ground, pouring sand on their heads, and uttering the most
piteous cries.
The sultan all this time had not informed Boo-Khaloum what district he
would allow him to attack, but observed that the Kerdie nations, being
extremely tractable, were becoming Mussulmans without force.
Major Denham had several interviews with this intelligent but bigoted
sultan, when he was greatly annoyed by the chief doctor of the court, or
_fighi_, Malem Chadily, who, because he was a Christian, endeavoured to
prejudice the mind of the sultan against him; indeed, the bigotry of
this court far surpassed that usually found among black tribes who have
become Mahommedans. The major had been drawing with a lead pencil, when
he was carried into the presence of the sultan. Malem Chadily on this
occasion pretended to treat him with great complaisance.
The courtiers were much astonished at seeing the effect produced by the
pencils, and the ease with which their traces were effaced by
india-rubber. Several words were written by the doctor and others,
which were quickly rubbed out by the major. At last, the doctor wrote:
"_Bismillah arachmani arachemi_" ("In the name of the great and most
merciful God") in large Koran characters. He made so deep an impression
on the paper, that after using the india-rubber the words still appeared
legible, the _fighi_ remarking: "They are the words of God, delivered to
our prophet: I defy you to erase them." The sultan and all around him
gazed at the paper with intense satisfaction, exclaiming that a miracle
had been wrought, and Denham was well pleased to take his departure.
Even Barca Gana afterwards, when Denham visited him in his tent,
exclaimed, "Wonderful! wonderful!" And the _fighi_, or doctor, added,
"I will show you hundreds of miracles performed alone by the words of
the wonderful book." He then urged the major to turn Mahommedan.
"Paradise will then be opened to you," he remarked. "Without this, what
can save you from eternal fire. I shall then see you, while sitting in
the third heaven, in the midst of the flames, crying out to your friend
Barca Gana and myself, `Give me a drop of water!' but the gulf will be
between us and then it will be too late." Malem's tears flowed in
abundance during this harangue, and everybody appeared affected by his
eloquence.
Poor Boo-Khaloum all this time was ill, from vexation more than
sickness. At last he had another interview with the sultan, but
returned much irritated, and told the major, as he passed, that they
should move in the evening, and to the question if everything went well,
he answered: "Please God." The Arabs, from whom he kept his destination
a secret, received him with cheers. Whom they were going against they
cared little, so long as there was a prospect of plunder, and the whole
camp became a busy scene of preparation. Two hours after noon the march
was commenced towards the mountains, which rose up in rugged
magnificence on either side.