to the house of a Bushreen, Kafa Taura. He was collecting a caravan of
slaves to convey to the European settlements on the Gambia, as soon as
the rains should be over. He found Kafa seated in his house surrounded
by several _slatees_ who proposed joining the caravan. He was reading
to them from an Arabic book, and enquired if his guest understood it.
On being answered in the negative, he desired one of the _slatees_ to
fetch a curious little book which had been brought from the west
country. It proved to be a book of Common Prayer, and Kafa expressed
great joy on hearing that Park could read it, for some of the _slatees_,
observing the colour of his skin, now become yellow from sickness,
suspected that he was an Arab in disguise. Kafa, however, had now no
doubt concerning him, and kindly promised him every assistance in his
power.
Park was here laid up completely by fever, but Kafa, who had provided a
quiet hut for his accomodation, advised him to remain within it,
assuring him that if he did not walk out in the wet he would soon be
well.
He passed five weeks in a gloomy and solitary manner, seldom visited by
any person except his benevolent landlord, who came daily to enquire
about his health.
When the rains became less frequent the country began to grow dry and
the fever left him, but in so debilitated condition that it was with
difficulty he could crawl with his mat to the shade of a tamarind tree
at a short distance, there to enjoy the refreshing smell of the
corn-fields. The benevolent and simple manners of the negroes, and the
perusal of Kafa's little volume greatly contributed to his restoration.
In the beginning of December, Kafa began to make arrangements for his
journey, and to complete the purchase of his slaves.
As he had to be absent about his affairs for a month, Park was left
during the time to the care of a good old Bushreen, who acted as
schoolmaster to the younger people of Kamalia.
The long-wished-for day of the departure of the caravan, the 19th of
April, at length arrived, and the irons being removed from the slaves,
the _slatees_ assembled at the door of Kafa's house, where the bundles
were all tied up, and everyone had his load assigned him.
Kafa had twenty-seven slaves for sale, but eight others afterwards
joined them, making in all thirty-five. The schoolmaster who was on his
return to Woradoo, the place of his nativity, took with him eight of his
scholars. Altogether, the come numbered seventy-three persons.
The caravan was followed for about half a mile by most of the
inhabitants of Kamalia; and when they had arrived at the top of a hill,
from whence they had a view of the town, they were all ordered to sit
down--those belonging to the coffle with their faces towards the west,
and the townspeople with theirs towards Kamalia. The schoolmaster, with
two of the principal _slatees_, having taken their places between the
two parties, pronounced a solemn prayer, after which they walked three
times round the coffle, making impressions in the ground with the ends
of their spears, and muttering something by way of a charm. When this
ceremony was ended, all the people belonging to the coffle sprang up
and, without taking a formal farewell of their friends, set forward.
Another ceremony was performed when the party stopped to dine on the
road. Before commencing the meal, when each person was seated with
their quotas arranged before him in small gourd shells, the schoolmaster
offered up a short prayer that God and the holy prophet might preserve
them from robbers and all bad people, that their provisions might never
fail nor their limbs become fatigued.
After stopping at the town of Kenytakooro till the 22nd of April, the
coffle commenced the journey through the Jallonka wilderness. The
country was very beautiful and abounded with birds and deer; but so
anxious were they to push on, that they made fully thirty miles that
day. Fatigued as they were, they were frequently disturbed in the night
by the howling of wild beasts and the bites of ants.
On setting out in the morning Nealee, one of Kafa's female slaves
refused to drink the gruel offered her. The country was extremely wild
and rocky, and Park began to fear that he should be unable to keep up
with the party. Others, however, suffered more than he did. The poor
female slave began to lag behind; and, complaining dreadfully of pains
in her legs, her load was taken from her and given to another, and she
was ordered to keep in front of the coffle.
As the party were resting near a rivulet a hive of bees was discovered
in a hollow tree, and some of the people were proceeding to obtain the
honey, when an enormous swarm flew out, and, attacking every one, made
them fly in every direction. Park being the first to take alarm, was
the only person who escaped with impunity. The slaves had, however,
left their bundles behind them, and to obtain them it was necessary to
set the grass on fire to the east of the hive, when the wind driving the
flames along, the men pushed through the smoke and recovered their
bundles. They also brought with them poor Nealee, whom they found lying
by the rivulet stung in the most dreadful manner. On her refusing to
proceed further, she was cruelly beaten with a whip, when, suddenly
starting up, she walked for four or five hours; she then made an attempt
to run away, but, from weakness, fell to the ground. Though unable to
rise, the whip was a second time applied, when Kafa ordered that she
should be placed on an ass. Unable to sit on it, she was carried
afterwards on a litter by two slaves.
The unfortunate slaves, who had travelled all day in the hot sun with
loads on their heads, were dreadfully fatigued; and some of them began
to snap their fingers--a sure sign, among negroes, of desperation. They
were, therefore, put in irons, and kept apart from each other. Next day
poor Nealee was again placed on the ass; but unable to hold herself on,
frequently fell to the ground. At length the cry arose
of--"_Kang-tegi_!" ("Cut her throat!") As Park did not wish to see this
horrible operation performed, he went on ahead; but soon afterwards he
was overtaken by one of Kafa's domestic slaves with poor Nealee's
garment on the end of a bow. On making inquiries of the man, he replied
that Kafa and the schoolmaster would not consent to her being killed,
but had left her on the road, where probably she was soon devoured by
wild animals.
Such is one example of the cruel treatment received by the unhappy
slaves. The old schoolmaster, however, was so affected, that he fasted
the whole of the ensuing day.
The party now travelled on rapidly, everyone being apprehensive that he
might otherwise meet with the fate of poor Nealee.
The coffle had still many dangers to encounter. Receiving information
that two hundred Jallonkas were lying in wait to plunder them, they
altered their course and travelled with great secrecy until midnight,
when they entered the town of Koba. Here they remained some days to
escape the Jallonkas.
The next town they reached, Malacotta, was the birthplace of the
schoolmaster, whose brother came out to meet him. The interview was
very natural and affecting. They fell on each other's neck, and it was
some time before either of them could speak. The schoolmaster then
turning, pointed to Kafa, saying, "This is the man who has been my
father in Manding. I would have pointed him out sooner to you, but my
heart was too full."
They were now in the country of friends, and were well received at each
of the towns they entered.
Park, however, witnessed numerous instances of the sad effects of the
slave trade. A singing man, the master of one of the slaves who had
travelled for some time with great difficulty, and was found unable to
proceed further, proposed to exchange him for a young slave girl
belonging to one of the townspeople. The poor girl was ignorant of her
fate until the bundles were all laid up in the morning, and the coffle
ready to depart, when, coming with some of the other young women to see
the coffle set out, her master took her by the hand and delivered her to
the singing man. Never was a face of serenity more suddenly changed
into one of the deepest distress; the terror she manifested on having
the load put on her head and the rope round her neck, and the sorrow
with which she bid adieu to her companions, were truly affecting.
Notwithstanding the treatment which the slaves received, they had hearts
which could feel for the white stranger amidst their infinitely greater
sufferings, and they frequently of their own accord brought water to
quench his thirst, and at night collected branches and leaves for his
bed, during that weary journey of more than five hundred British miles.
Knowing that the greater number were doomed to a life of slavery in a
foreign land, he could not part from them without feeling much emotion.
At last Pisania was reached, and Park was warmly welcomed as one risen
from the dead by the Mr Ainsleys and Dr Laidley. They had heard that
the Moors had murdered him as they had murdered Major Haughton. He
learned with great sorrow that neither of his two attendants, Johnson
and Demba, had returned, and that nothing was known of them. Park gave
double the amount he had promised to Kafa, and sent a present also to
the good old schoolmaster at Malacotta. Kafa, who had never before
heard English spoken, listened with great attention to Park, when
conversing with his friends. His astonishment at the various articles
of furniture in the houses was very great; but it was still greater when
he saw Mr Ainsley's schooner lying in the river. He could not
comprehend the use of the masts and sails, or conceive how so large a
body could be moved by the wind. He was frequently heard to exclaim,
with a sigh: "Ah! black men are nothing."
After waiting at Pisania some time, finding no vessel likely to sail
direct for England, he took his passage on board a slave vessel bound
for South Carolina. She, however, meeting with bad weather, put into
Antigua, and from thence he sailed in an English packet, and arrived at
Falmouth on the 22nd of December, having been from England about two
years and seven months.
CHAPTER FOUR.
PARK'S SECOND JOURNEY.
MARRIES--PREPARES FOR ANOTHER JOURNEY--ACCOMPANIED BY MESSRS. ANDERSON
AND SCOTT, LIEUTENANT MARTYN AND THIRTY-FIVE SOLDIERS, PROCEEDS TO
PISANIA BY WAY OF GOREE--ENGAGES ISAACO AS GUIDE--NUMEROUS ASSES--
JOURNEY COMMENCED--THREE SOLDIERS DIE--ATTACKED BY BEES--SICKNESS AMONG
THE MEN INCREASES--ANNOYED BY LIONS--MESSRS. ANDERSON AND SCOTT ILL OF
FEVER--SEVERAL MEN LEFT BEHIND--ISAACO SEIZED BY A CROCODILE--NATIVES
ATTEMPT TO ROB THEM--A BRIDGE BUILT--REACH BANGASSI--SCOTT LEFT BEHIND,
SICK--THE CORPORAL AND MORE MEN DIE--MR. ANDERSON'S ILLNESS INCREASES--
FOLLOWED BY LIONS--HEAVY RAINS--MEETS KAFA TAURA--THE NIGER REACHED--
DESCENDS THE NIGER IN A CANOE--ISAACO TAKES HIS LEAVE--ALARMING
REPORTS--RECEIVES ENVOYS FROM MANSONG--CONTINUES VOYAGE IN CANOES--
RECEIVES NEWS OF SCOTT'S DEATH--MR. ANDERSON DIES--A VESSEL BUILT--
COMMENCES VOYAGE IN HER WITH LIEUTENANT MARTYN, TWO WHITE MEN AND SOME
SLAVES--ATTACKED BY NATIVES--CONTINUES VOYAGE--AGAIN ATTACKED--PARK AND
MARLYN DROWNED, OTHERS KILLED--ONE SLAVE ESCAPES, WHO GIVES AN ACCOUNT
OF THE TRAGEDY.
Soon after his return to England Park married the daughter of Mr
Anderson, with whom he had served his apprenticeship, and resided a
couple of years with his mother and one of his brothers on the farm that
his father had occupied at Fowlshiels, in Scotland. After this he
practised his profession for some time at Peebles. But this sort of
life not satisfying his ardent temperament, on hearing from Sir Joseph
Banks that another expedition into Africa to explore the Niger was
proposed, he at once offered his services.
Nothing, however, was settled till the year 1803, when, being directed
to hold himself in readiness to proceed to Africa, he engaged a native
of Mogadore, named Sidi Omback Boubi, then residing in London, to
accompany him to Scotland for the purpose of instructing him in Arabic.
Nearly another year passed before all arrangements were concluded. It
was finally determined that the expedition should consist of Park
himself, his brother-in-law (Mr Anderson), and Mr George Scott, who
was to act as draughtsman, together with a few boat-builders and
artificers. They were to be joined at Goree by a party of soldiers of
the African corps stationed in that garrison.
Three months after this elapsed ere they set sail on board the
"Crescent" transport on the 30th of January, 1805; and, after touching
at Saint Jago to obtain asses for the journey, they reached Goree on the
28th of March.
There was no lack of volunteers, the whole garrison offering their
services. Thirty-five soldiers under the command of Lieutenant Martyn
of the Royal Artillery Corps were selected, as well as two sailors from
the "Squirrel" frigate.
They left Goree on the 6th of April, the men jumping into the boats in
the highest spirits, and bidding adieu to their friends with repeated
huzzas.
Landing at Kayee on the northern bank of the Gambia, they commenced
their overland journey to Pisania on the 27th of April. The weather was
intensely hot, and the asses, unaccustomed to carry loads, made their
march very fatiguing and troublesome, three of the animals sticking fast
in a muddy rice field soon after they started.
So many delays had occurred that the rainy season was already
approaching, and it would have been more prudent had the expedition
remained at Goree or Pisania till the country had become again suitable
for travelling. It was just possible, however, that they might reach
the Niger before the middle of June, when the rainy season usually
commences, and that river could then have been navigated without much
exposure or toil. So eager, however, was Mr Park to proceed, that he
disregarded the warnings of his friends, and determined to set forth on
his journey.
Several days were lost at Pisania in arranging the burdens of the asses
and in purchasing more animals, as those they possessed were not
sufficient for carrying all the loads.
He here engaged a Mandingo priest named Isaaco, who was also a
travelling merchant, to serve as a guide, and, on the 4th of May, all
being ready, the caravan set forth from Pisania, whence nearly ten years
before Park had commenced his adventurous journey into the interior.
The arrangements for the march were well devised. The animals as well
as their loads were marked and numbered with red paint, and a certain
number allotted to the care of each of the six messes into which the
soldiers were divided. Mr Scott and Isaaco generally led, Lieutenant
Martyn marched in the centre, and Anderson and Park brought up the rear.
All their forethought, however, could not guard them against the deadly
attacks of the climate. The asses from the first gave them a great deal
of trouble--many, from being overloaded, lying down in the road, while
others kicked off their bundles--so that the caravan made but slow
progress.
They had not gone far when two of the soldiers died, and, a few days
afterwards, another lost his life.
At most of the places through which they passed they were well received;
but at the town of Bady the chief man demanded enormously high duties,
and sent a large band of armed followers to collect them. When Isaaco
was sent over to Bady to enquire the reason of this conduct, he was
seized, his weapons taken from him, and he was tied to a tree and
flogged. It was proposed to attack the place; but early the next day
the guide was sent back, and the matter was settled by payment of a
portion of the duties demanded.
While halting at a creek, the asses being unloaded, some of the men went
in search of honey. Unfortunately they disturbed a large swarm of bees,
which, rushing out, attacked both men and beasts. The asses, being
loose, galloped off, but the horses and people were fearfully stung.
A fire, which had been kindled for cooking, being deserted, spread in
all directions, setting the bamboos in flames and very nearly destroying
their luggage. Two of the asses died here, and others were missing.
Several of the soldiers now fell sick, and were mounted on the horses
and spare asses.
At Toombin, which the caravan reached on the 16th of June, in the
neighbourhood of Malacotta, the good old schoolmaster, Park's former
friend, arrived just as the baggage had started, having travelled all
night to visit him. Park invited him to go forward to the next place
where they should halt, that he might reward him for his former
kindness.
After leaving the village he found Hinton, one of the party, to whom Mr
Anderson had lent his horse, lying under a tree, and the horse grazing
at a little distance. Park put the sick man on the horse and drove it
before him, but was at length compelled to leave him. A mile further on
he came to two others lying in the shade of a tree, whom he placed on
his own and Mr Anderson's horses, and carried on to the next village.
Hence he sent back for poor Hinton, and left the three in charge of the
_dooty_, giving him beads to purchase provisions for them should they
live, and to bury them if they died.
On the 22nd one of the carpenters was also left behind at his own
request. A soldier, Bloore, lost his way in the woods while looking for
an ass which had strayed, and in the search another sick man, Walter,
was found. He had laid himself down among the bushes. He died soon
after being taken up, and Park with his sword, and two of the soldiers
with their bayonets, dug his grave in the desert, covering it over with
a few branches.
Thus, one by one, in rapid succession, Park's companions, attacked by
fever, either sank on the road or were left behind, too probably to
perish.
On the 30th of June both Mr Anderson and Mr Scott were attacked by the
fever.
While encamped during a violent tornado, when it was necessary to put
out the watch-fires, a peculiar roaring and growling was heard.
Supposing the sound to be that of wild boars, Park and Lieutenant Martyn
went in search of them and fired several shots into the bush. The
natives on their return told them that they were not boars, but young
lions, and that unless a very good look out was kept they would probably
kill some of the cattle during the night. About midnight the lions
attempted to seize one of the asses, which so alarmed the rest that they
broke the ropes and came full gallop in amongst the tents. Two of the
lions followed so close that the sentry cut one with his sword, but
dared not fire for fear of killing the asses.
Both Anderson and Scott were worse, but Park urged them to proceed.
Alston, a seaman, had become so weak that he was unable to sit his
horse, and entreated to be left in the woods till the morning. Park
gave him a loaded pistol and some cartridges to protect himself.
The next day, the 4th of July, the river Wanda, which they reached, was
found to be greatly swollen. There was but one canoe. In this the
baggage was carried over, and Isaaco endeavoured to make the asses cross
by swimming and pushing them before him. While thus employed, just as
he reached the middle of the stream, a crocodile suddenly rose and,
seizing him by the left thigh, pulled him under water. With wonderful
presence of mind he thrust his finger into the creature's eye; on which
it quitted its hold, and Isaaco attempted to reach the further shore,
calling out for a knife. The crocodile returned and seized him by the
other thigh, and again pulled him under water. He had recourse to the
same expedient, and thrust his finger into its eyes with such violence
that it again quitted him and, when it rose, after flouncing about, swam
down the stream. Isaaco reached the other side, and as soon as the
canoe returned Park went over, and, having dressed his wounds with
adhesive plaster, he was carried to the nearest village, fortunately not
far off. Park here found himself very ill and unable to stand erect
without feeling a tendency to faint, while all the people were so sickly
that they could with difficulty carry the loads into the tents, though
rain threatened. Greatly to their astonishment, Ashton the sailor
arrived, with his fever much abated, but quite naked, having been
stripped of his clothes by some natives during the night.
Important as it was to push on, they found it impossible to do so
without Isaaco, whose recovery seemed doubtful, though the delay would
expose them to the full violence of the rain shortly to be expected.
Isaaco, under Park's care, notwithstanding his fears, rapidly recovered;
and on the 10th of July they were able once more to travel forward,
taking a west and north-west direction.
They were now exposed to the thieving propensities of the natives, who
took every opportunity of carrying off whatever they could lay their
hands on. Among the chief robbers were the sons of a potentate called
Mansa Mumma, whose town they reached on the 12th. As Park was looking
out for an easy ascent over some rocky ground, two of these young
princes, approaching, snatched his musket from his hand and ran off with
it. He instantly sprang from his saddle and followed the robber with
his sword, calling to Mr Anderson to tell some of the people to look
after his horse. Anderson got within musket-shot of the man, but,
seeing that he was Mumma's son, had some doubt about shooting him. The
thief made his escape, and on Park's return he found that the other
prince had stolen his great coat. An elder brother, who had been
engaged as a guide, told him that after what had happened he would be
justified in shooting the first who attempted to steal from the loads.
The soldiers were accordingly ordered to load their muskets and be
ready. Notwithstanding this, a short time afterwards a man made a dash
at one of the asses which had strayed a little from the rest, took off
the load, and began to cut it open with his knife. The soldiers fired,
but did not hit him, and he made his escape, leaving the load behind
him. Another seized a soldier's knapsack and attempted to make off with
it. The soldier covered him with his piece, but it flashed in the pan,
and the robber escaped. Another robber, however, who had attempted to
carry off a great coat from an ass driven by one of the sick men, was
wounded, and Mansa's son insisted that he should be killed, as otherwise
they would not fulfil the orders of the king, who had directed that
every person be shot who stole from the caravan.
In this way, day after day, they were attacked, and they had little
doubt that one of the sick men who had fallen behind had been robbed and
murdered by these people.
A deep stream being reached, it was proposed to form a raft; but the
Mandingoes insisted that it would be necessary to build a bridge to
enable them to cross. It was most ingeniously and rapidly constructed.
The people, however, were too sickly to carry the baggage over, and
negroes were therefore hired for the purpose, as well as to swim the
asses across.
Another of the soldiers here lay down and expired, and, as the sun was
very hot, it was impossible to stop and bury him.
As he was riding on, Park found Mr Scott lying by the side of the path,
too sick to walk, and, shortly afterwards, Lieutenant Martyn lay down in
the same state.
Pushing on to the town of Mareena, Park sent back a party to bring in
his sick companions.
Hence they proceeded to Bangassi, six miles distant, the capital of the
Chief Serenummo. While encamped outside, one of the sick men, who had
been left under the shade of a tree, was nearly being torn to pieces by
wolves, which he found, on awakening, smelling at his feet. Ill as he
was, he started up and rushed to the camp.
Here the corporal died, and several soldiers, as well as one of the
carpenters, insisted on being left behind. Park handed to the _dooty's_
son a quantity of amber and other articles of trade, that the poor men
might be taken care of.
Poor Park's troubles increased. Mr Scott, who rode his horse,
continued very ill, and the soldiers were so weak that, when the loads
fell off the asses, they were unable to lift them on again. In the
course of one day's march Park himself had to assist in re-loading
thirteen of the animals. The caravan was also followed by wolves, who
prowled round them during the night, showing too plainly what would be
the fate of any of the sick men who dropped behind. Provisions also
became scarce, and thieves likewise dodged their footsteps, taking every
opportunity of robbing them.
On the 10th of August, as Park, who was bringing up the rear, reached a
stream, he found many of the soldiers sitting on the ground, and Mr
Anderson was lying under a bush, apparently dying. He took his
brother-in-law on his back, and carried him across the stream, though it
took him up to his middle. He had then to carry other loads, and get
the animals over, having thus to cross sixteen times. He then put Mr
Anderson on his horse and conveyed him to the next village, where,
however, a solitary fowl was the only food he could obtain.