It is with intent and purpose that I do not suggest that everlasting
Americanism, beefsteak for breakfast; to my mind, it seems far more
suitable for the luncheon table, and just now, with mushrooms so
plenty, and as inexpensive as they ever are, a well-broiled, tender,
juicy sirloin steak, with a mushroom sauce, makes a dish fit for the
gods, and yet not a whit too good for human nature's daily food. Just
as good, in its way, for luncheon, is a herring salad, made of smoked
herring. Omit the use of caviare, which many cook-books recommend, for
you want nothing that will encroach upon the flavor of the herring,
but rather something which will act as its complement. For this
purpose use one-third cold sliced potatoes to two-thirds herring, a
plentiful sprinkling of capers, and the ordinary oil and vinegar
dressing, with the salt put in by a miserly hand. Another salad,
suitable for luncheon, especially if cold tongue is served, is made of
the little Bermuda onions, which are abundant now; they should be
minced finely and served ice-cold to win your highest admiration.