most 3, kinds, of wine should suffice. With soup, fish, and sweets,
either sherry, chablis, sauterne, or hock; with the rest of the
dinner, claret or Burgundy and champagne. It has become the fashion
of late years to serve this last-named wine rather profusely, with
more regard to quantity than quality, but mediocrity is not tolerable
in the matter of champagne. To second or even third class clarets
or Burgundies there can be no objection; they may not possess the
bouquet of the finest brands, but they are quite drinkable of their
kind, whereas inferior champagne is simply an abomination. The same,
in a lesser degree, perhaps, applies to Madeira and port. It is a
mistake to suppose that first-rate port wine and Madeira are not to
be had for love or money, but in many instances such wretched stuff
is put on the table under those names that people have been scared
by it, and there are but few who are bold enough to help themselves
to either wine. There is, however, no particular obligation to have
port wine at dessert. A bottle of first-class Burgundy can well take
its place, and it is an easier matter to procure the latter than the
former.
All wines, but more particularly clarets and Burgundies, require
some care during their transit from the cellar to the dinner table,
especially in cold weather. In the majority of private houses the
wine cellars are no better than they should be, and more fitted to
store coals than wine. Delicate wines are quite unfit to drink when
they come out of most private cellars. To restore wines to their
right condition many persons adopt such rough means as plunging the
bottle in a bucket of hot water or putting it in front of the fire
in the fender, proceedings which have the double effect of warming
the wine and utterly spoiling it. The proper way to set to work is
to bring up the day before or in the morning all the wine that is
wanted for one day, and to place the bottles standing in a room in
which there is a fire, but nowhere near the fire; the wine will then
gradually recover its proper temperature and tone and be fit to
drink. When bottles have stood for half a day or more there will be
no difficulty in decanting the wine bright, whereas it is almost an
impossibility to get wine otherwise than foul if it is decanted the
moment it is taken from the bin.
=Breakfasts.=--There is an almost endless variety of dishes suited to
the breakfast-table. The following may be mentioned as examples:--
Trout or mackerel split open and broiled; scrambled eggs on anchovy
toast; buttered eggs with tomato sauce; fried soles with cut lemon;
kidneys stewed or fried; kidney toast; ham toast; omelets; kedgeree;
kromeskies; curried fowl or rabbit; rissoles; potted meat; lobster
or salmon cutlets; potted pig’s head; poached eggs; boiled ham;
hard-boiled eggs curried; wet devil; brawn; broiled chicken and
mushrooms; stewed mushrooms; grilled kidney; savoury rice; sheep’s
brains; boiled pig’s feet; baked eggs; fish pudding; fish cakes; fish
scallops; Scotch woodcock; lobster toast; pressed beef; chicken pie;
veal and ham pie; sardines on toast; potted meat; bloaters on toast;
egg paste; Brighton toast; devilled eggs; veal cake; eel pie; sausage
patties; bacon omelet; sweetbreads; fried ham and egg; salt-fish.
=Luncheons.=--Excepting in very rare and ceremonious cases, luncheon
is a decidedly informal meal, and no long invitations are given.
In the country it is a pleasant mode of seeing friends who live at
too great a distance to drive over for a morning visit with the
uncertainty of finding any one at home, or who do not like a long
drive in the dark to dinner. In London many ladies give it to be
understood by their intimate friends that they are always to be
found at home at luncheon time; but this is of course a somewhat
expensive mode of life, necessitating the daily preparation of a
luncheon sufficient for an uncertain number of guests. It is an
excellent method of seeing friends who may be merely passing through
the town to invite them to luncheon, as their evening hours are
frequently engaged. Also it is a convenient form of hospitality in
small households, as, the meal being less formal, less is expected
in the way of preparation, decorations, and attendance. Soup is not
customary at luncheon, and fish is not necessary; though there is
no objection to its appearance in the form of an entrée. There may
be cold dishes, both of meat and sweets, which of course economises
labour where the kitchen establishment is small; and champagne is
not offered, sherry, claret, and port being sufficient. The table
is not elaborately decorated with flowers as it is for a dinner
party; and though there is most frequently a little fruit, no great
expense is incurred for dessert, and it is not customary to have
ices or liqueurs. There is no necessity as at a dinner party to have
an equal number of gentlemen and ladies, for it is not usual to go
down to luncheon arm-in-arm--in fact, everything is calculated to
make the gathering as little formal as possible. It is by no means
necessary at an ordinary luncheon party that the master of the house
should be at home; in his absence one of the daughters of the family
would take the foot of the table and carve, the hostess of course
taking the head of the table. If there are no grown-up daughters, the
governess, if there is one, often carves, or the hostess asks any
gentleman who may be present to do so. Some people profess to prefer
a luncheon party where the servants are sent out of the room as soon
as they have removed the covers, alleging that conversation is more
unrestrained. This may be the case, but it generally results in the
guests having to go without what they require. If they attempt to
get up and help themselves there is always a fuss and a rush to get
what they require for them; and generally they prefer doing without
vegetables or the second glass of wine which they want rather than
give trouble and disturb their entertainers. It is much better to let
the servants wait as they would at dinner; it is very disagreeable
for the guests to have to change their own plates, and still more
so to see the dirty plates either left on the table or piled up on
dumb-waiters at the corners. Any dishes of hot meat should be removed
when they are done with, as they are not appetising to look at when
getting cold, and their places should be filled with whatever sweets
there may be. Serviettes are quite as much needed at luncheon as
at dinner; but finger-glasses and doyleys are not used, even when
fruit and cake conclude the repast. The invitations to luncheon are
generally either verbal or contained in friendly notes; formal cards
are not used. The general hour is 1.30 or 2, the latter being most
common in London, and the former in the country, more especially in
winter. The guests usually arrive about ¼ hour before the time named,
and the hostess always asks the ladies whether they will like to go
upstairs and take off their hats and jackets. Sometimes they do so,
but often prefer merely leaving any warm wraps in the drawing-room;
elderly ladies especially often do not care to remove their bonnets.
After luncheon is over the party returns to the drawing-room. There
is no arbitrary rule as to when the guests take their leave, as it
depends on intimacy and many other circumstances; but the average
time is ¼-½ hour. Neither tea nor coffee is offered. These remarks,
of course, apply only to private and informal luncheon parties. When
there is any great state occasion, such, for instance, as a luncheon
given on the opening of a church, the laying of a stone or anything
else of a public character, the entertainment is more of the nature
of a dinner partaken of at an early hour--ceremonious invitations
are issued, each lady is escorted by a gentleman as at dinner, and
champagne is invariably given.
=Teas.=--Afternoon tea is not in fashionable circles regarded as
a meal; but merely as a light refreshment, to break what would
otherwise be a 6 hours’ abstinence between a 2 o’clock luncheon, and
an 8 o’clock dinner. Tea is served, or brought into the drawing-room
at 4-5 o’clock, but not later than 5; it is not served in the
dining-room, save when an “at home” or large 5 o’clock tea is given.
The housekeeper, lady’s maid, cook, or whoever may be acting as
housekeeper, makes the tea, fills the hot-water kettle with boiling
water, fills the sugar-basin and creamjug, and places the teacups on
the tray, with teaspoons, a plate of thin bread and butter or cake,
if not both. The footman, before taking in the tea, places a low
table in front of his mistress, or of the seat usually occupied by
her when pouring out tea, or he sees that the table near to her chair
is clear of articles, that he may at once place the tray upon it. The
small tea-table is not covered with a white cloth; but if covered
with a smart drawing-room table cover it would not be taken off; the
tables used for tea are chiefly small round tables, covered in velvet
or embroidery, and trimmed with lace, or are square wicker-work
tables; tea is not served on large tables, neither are chairs placed
in order around the small tea-table, but remain in their usual
position in the drawing room. Neither plates, doyleys, or serviettes
are used at afternoon tea. The hot-water kettles in use are hanging
silver kettles on stands, or silver or china kettles, about the size
of a teapot, which do not require a stand. Teapot stands, or tea
cosies, are not used, and are considered bad style. When the mistress
pours out the tea, cups of tea are not handed by a servant.
When the mistress does not care to give herself the trouble of
pouring out the tea for an indefinite number of callers, cups of tea
according to the number of persons in the drawing-room are brought in
on a salver, with cream and sugar, thin bread and butter and cake.
If two servants are in attendance, one hands the tea, the other the
cake and bread and butter; if only one servant is kept, all is placed
on the same tray. The servant hands the tray first to his mistress,
if no guests are present; but when guests are present tea is first
handed to the lady of highest rank, and to the married ladies before
the unmarried ladies. He then takes away the salver or tray, with its
contents. He does not leave it in the drawing-room, or put it down
while he is there. The tea is either brought in at the usual hour
for having tea, or, if required earlier, the mistress of the house
rings the bell, and orders it to be brought in. She does not mention
how many cups of tea are required, as if she were giving an order
at an hotel; but says vaguely, “Bring some tea, please.” It is the
servant’s duty to notice how many persons are in the drawing-room,
and how many cups of tea are consequently required. It is advisable
to bring in an extra cup, in case another visitor should arrive in
the meantime.
At small 5 o’clock teas, when the number of the guests does not
warrant tea being served in dining-rooms--and the size of the
drawing-rooms determine this matter--the tea is served in the back
drawing-room. A good-sized square table is placed in a convenient
corner of the back drawing-room, a white damask tablecloth is spread
on the table, and as many cups and saucers are placed upon the
table as there are guests expected. The cups include teacups and
coffee-cups, but more teacups than coffee-cups are usually required;
the cups are placed in rows. The teacups are placed at one end or
side of the table, and the coffee-cups at the opposite end or side.
The urn occupies the centre of the table, 2 small teapots and 2
small coffee-pots are placed in the centre of the rows of cups.
A silver jug of cream, and a basin to correspond of loaf sugar,
a basin of crystallised sugar, and a jug of milk for the coffee.
Slop-basins are not used on these occasions, neither are plates,
doyleys, serviettes, or small knives. The sole eatables provided
are thin bread and butter, biscuits, coffee-biscuits, macaroons,
and pound cakes; sponge cakes are rather in favour at children’s
teas, but not much fancied at drawing-room teas. When tea is served
in this fashion, in the drawing-room, the ladies of the house, or
some intimate friend of its mistress, pours out the tea, with the
assistance of some of the gentlemen present. The servants do not
remain in the drawing-room after they have brought in the tea, and
when anything extra is required in the way of additional cups, fresh
tea, more bread and butter, &c., the mistress of the house would
ring and give the necessary orders. The tea-table would be prepared
in the drawing-room half an hour before the hour at which the
guests had been invited. The tea and coffee would not be brought in
until the hour named in the invitation, say, 4 or 5, either hour
being considered equally fashionable. The tea-table is not cleared,
or the things removed, until after the departure of the guests,
when the parlour maid would perform that duty, and re-arrange the
drawing-rooms. It is the footman’s duty to prepare the table for tea,
and to bring in the tea and coffee; the butler carries in the urn; he
also announces the guests as they arrive.
At afternoon “at homes,” or large 5 o’clock teas, tea is served in
the dining-room; a buffet is formed of the dining-table, which is
placed at the upper end or side of the room, if the doing so affords
greater space; thus the buffet extends the length of the room or the
width of it; the buffet is covered with a white damask tablecloth,
and the centre of it is occupied with plated urns containing tea and
coffee, or silver teapots and coffee-pots, and an urn for hot water
and jugs of iced coffee, dishes of fancy biscuits, cake, thin bread
and butter, fruit, &c., are also placed the length of the buffet.
Decanters of sherry and jugs of claret, champagne and hock cup are
placed at distances in front of these, a space being left clear at
the outer edge for the teacups when used. The cups and saucers are
placed in rows behind the urns, and relays of the same on a small
table, or butler’s tray, stand close at hand; wine-glasses are placed
near the decanters, that gentlemen may help themselves to wine. When
claret-cup or champagne-cup is given, small thin tumblers are placed
near the glass jugs. Jugs of cream and milk, and basins of sugar,
are placed on the buffet at intervals. Small plates, doyleys, and
serviettes are never used at this class of tea, unless strawberries
and cream are given, when they are handed on a plate with a
dessertspoon and small fork on each side of it, ready for use. When
ices are given at afternoon teas, they are handed on a small glass
plate, with an ice spoon on the side of the plate; tall ice-glasses
are not good style; a fashionable way of serving ices is in small
paper cups placed on ice plates.
The tea is always poured out on these occasions by the lady’s maids
and upper female servants, but never by the men servants. These women
servants stand behind the buffet, and pour out the tea and coffee,
and hand it across the buffet when asked for.
Ices are not usually under the charge of the servants who pour out
the tea, but under that of the still-room maid or cook, and are
served from a side-table at the back of the buffet, and are handed
to the servants at the buffet when asked for. Piles of ice plates,
paper cups, and spoons are in readiness on the side-table for
immediate use. The guests help themselves to cake and biscuits, or
anything they may require, from the buffet, but the ice wafers are
placed on the ice plates when the ices are served in paper cups,
otherwise a dish of wafers is handed to the lady by the gentleman
who has asked for the ice for her, or she takes it herself. The men
servants are constantly engaged in taking away the glasses that have
been used, and the teacups and saucers. The former are taken to the
pantry to be washed, and the latter to the housekeeper’s room or
still room, and sufficient quantity of glass and china is always
provided, so as to avoid a shadow of inconvenience from the want of
either. The decanters of wine and the jugs of claret and other cups
are replenished by the butler, who replaces empty decanters and jugs
with full ones. When the dishes of cake, &c., show signs of their
being exhausted, the footman replaces them with fresh dishes, which
he procures from the housekeeper’s room. Dessert dishes and glass
dishes are used for this purpose. Where only one man servant is kept
and small “at homes” are given, one of the women servants attends to
this duty, as the men servants would be engaged in opening the door
to the visitors on their arrival and for them on their departure, and
in announcing them in the drawing-room.
Rows of seats are not placed in the dining-room for the guests, and
the room is cleared as far as possible of all movable furniture to
allow all available space.
The much-increasing fashion of giving invitations to high tea has
been adopted by many hostesses, especially by those who, with limited
establishments, find it difficult, if not impossible, to undertake
the requirements of a modern dinner without the objectionable
alternative of hiring assistance. So late a meal as supper may not
be expedient for many reasons, and many a young hostess finds her
difficulties vanish before the less formal appellation “high tea,”
which, if well managed, may be a comfortable repast, but otherwise, a
most uncomfortable substitute for dinner.
Various are the modes of arranging this meal. At the “highest” of
“high teas” the principal dishes consist of hot poultry, game, and
small entrées, which, if placed at once on the table, must be kept
covered while a light fish course is handed round, with which sherry
or other light wines are offered.
Vegetables are not necessary, except where they form part of a dish,
such as stewed pigeons and peas, cutlets with tomatoes, sweetbreads
with mushrooms in white sauce, or stuffed vegetable marrow. Large
mushrooms may be served _au gratin_, and roast fowls on watercress.
Potatoes may always be handed round, either mashed and browned, or,
better still, beaten up with egg and cream, seasoned with pepper and
salt, rolled into dainty little shapes, breadcrumbed and fried.
Should macaroni cheese, a _fondue_, or any such preparation, usually
most welcome to the men of the party, be included, it must be brought
in hot, after the removal of the substantial dishes.
The table is of course tastefully arranged with growing plants and
cut flowers; and at this season bright hedgerow leaves and berries
make charming decorations. Small dishes of fresh or preserved fruits,
bonbons, &c., are placed amongst the creams, jellies, and dishes of
light pastry, also cake, plain and fancy biscuits.
If the hostess be an accomplished tea maker, she will probably
prefer to undertake this important duty herself, having (unless the
table be very large) a small tray by her side with the necessary
paraphernalia, a kettle over a small spirit lamp, and coffee
percolator.
Sometimes tea and coffee are dispensed from the sideboard, but the
person entrusted must be competent, as nothing will tend more to
spoil the enjoyment of the repast for some guests than lukewarm or
weak tea, or muddy coffee. In each case let the cream, hot milk, and
sugar (which must be broken into small pieces) be handed round, as
it is impossible for one person to suit the varied tastes of others
in these items. It may be found more convenient to serve all the
eatables cold, such as cold game, chaud froid of chicken, lobster or
prawn salad, pigeons or other small birds in aspic jelly, mayonnaise
of turbot or salmon, prettily arranged moulds of minced veal and ham,
with sliced eggs, &c.; pies of game or poultry, boiled turkey sauced
with oysters, and many other preparations in cold-meat cookery, too
numerous to be here mentioned. Here also will fruits, sweets, creams,
&c., find their appropriate places, and plates of thinly cut white
and brown bread and butter must either be conveniently placed or
constantly handed round; also plain and fancy bread. Small glass or
china tubs should hold butter made into tiny balls or shapes, and
enough saltcellars be provided to prevent the continual passing and
repassing of them. Inattention to these apparent trifles often create
discomfort in a large party.
Hot buttered toast, tea cakes, and scones frequently appear at a
repast of this description, especially in Scotland, where the variety
of home-made tea cakes is so great.
Then there is the high tea, where the party includes but
4-6--actually a small dinner, but without the name--the soup, heavier
dishes and their adjuncts, a succession of small dishes (from fish
to miniature light puddings) being served _à la Russe_, accompanied
perhaps by wine, the tea or coffee tray being only introduced near
the termination of the repast. Happily, sitting over wine is not
now essential to the enjoyment of most men. Well-managed high teas
are often better appreciated than the more formal, and probably
imperfect, so-called dinner. (M. M.)
=Suppers.=--The essentials of supper are not only lightness and
wholesomeness of material, but grace and elegance of service. It is
possible to make off a single dish one of the wholesomest, as well
as completest, of suppers that can be devised, viz. oysters. Fish of
most sorts, however, is well fitted to take its place amongst the
ingredients of supper, only be warned against salmon in any shape,
and specially in that most dangerous of all, the pickled state. At
supper there is not, nor ought to be, any regularly constituted
succession of “courses,” and the several dishes, whether hot or
cold, should be in their places on the table at the same time. As
regards the question between hot and cold. There are plenty of
hot dishes to be had most easy of digestion, and to the palate of
many people more agreeable than cold; but exclude all manner of
soups. Of the better kind of hot food, the following specimens may
suffice: Chickens (spatchcocked, grilled, roast, and fricasséed),
larded capon, salmis of game, roast partridge or grouse (but not
roast hare), mutton cutlets of different sorts, grills or broils,
patties (oyster for preference), rissoles, and croquettes. Of the
more solid cold articles of food, the greater part will probably
already have appeared at breakfast or luncheon,--boar’s head and
brawn, cold game, round of beef, and chickens with ham or tongue;
there remain mayonnaises (but not of lobster), macédoines, aspic, and
other savoury jellies, galantine, and raised pies in their abundant
varieties. Adjuncts to the feast, such as sandwiches (the best are of
tongue, ham, and potted meat), will never be out of place. Plovers’
eggs too, if they have no other merit, it cannot be denied are of
very extensive popularity. The dishes mentioned will require to be
supplemented by a certain variety of sweet things.
=Miscellaneous.=--_Wedding Breakfast._--(_a_) Clear soup and hot
cutlets, croquettes, or some other suitable entrée may first be
handed round, but it is not _de rigueur_, and all the rest should
be cold and on the table. Cold salmon, mayonnaise of soles, prawns,
lobster, or any other fish liked. Chicken, tongue, ham, galantines,
raised pies, cold cutlets in aspic, savoury jellies; in fact,
anything that can be served at a supper, and the more easy the dishes
are to serve, the better. For instance, the fowls cut up, the tongue
in slices, and all prettily garnished and decorated with lettuce,
endive, beetroot, cucumber, aspic jelly, and eggs. For sweets,
jellies, cream, pastries, trifle, meringues; ices, if liked, and, of
course, the wedding cake. Coffee must be handed round afterwards.
(_b_) In May mayonnaises de saumon, mayonnaises de homard, crevettes
au naturel, aspics aux œufs de pluviers. Chapons à la Béchamel,
pintades piquées, poulets et langue, jambons glacés, galantines de
bœuf, pâtés froids variés. Poulardes rôties, salades à l’Italienne.
Gelées et crèmes, blancmanges, corbeilles aux meringues, corbeilles
de pâtisseries, gateaux Napolitains, gâteau de Savoie glacé. Glaces:
fraises à la crème, oranges à l’eau. Bride cake. Dessert. All cold.