DIAGRAM 56.—In cutting collars, the predominant idea must be to design
them for the purpose for which they are intended.
The different styles illustrated on the plate on the opposite page will
enable any one to draft whatever style may be desired.
Let us first draft Diagram 56. This is a collar that clings close to the
neck on the upper edge, and is one that is preferred above all others
for some dress waists.
To draft it we draw lines O 1 and O 4.
From O to 1 is ½ of the neck size, and from O to 4 the width we prefer,
which may be 2 to 3 inches.
From 1 to 2 place the same width as O to 4 and curve the edge, which
sews on the neck ½ inch below the straight line O 1, and retreat the
front from 2 to 3 about ½ to ¾ inch.
DIAGRAM 57.—This collar is drawn on square lines by placing from O to 1
the size of neck, and adding whatever width is needed above O to 4.
This collar will not cling to the neck as close as that of Diagram 56.
DIAGRAM 58.—This form will not cling to the neck on the upper edge,
because of the curve from 3 to 4.
In drafting it draw the lines C 2 and C 4.
From C go up to O 1 inch, and form the neck line from O to 2 as shown.
Add the width to 4 and 3 and finish as represented.
DIAGRAM 59.—With the view of giving more curve to the upper edge and
therefore more flare to it, we are compelled to make the distance A to B
2½ inches.
Apply the size of the neck from A to D, the width from B to C, and
finish as shown on the diagram.
DIAGRAM 60.—This collar is similar to that of Diagram 59, and it is the
most useful of all collars, as it adapts itself not only to a standing
form, but is equally as good to turn down for a short roll front. The
manner of construction is exactly the same as explained for Diagram 59.
DIAGRAM 61.—When we desire to perfect the collar which is ordinarily
termed “The Medeciè,” we are compelled to raise above point A to B 3
inches.
Applying the size of neck from A to D, curving the neck-seam from B to
D, and adding the width B to C and D to E will finish this style.
DIAGRAM 62.—This is the extremest plain style that it is possible to
make for a collar that will stand up and that can also be turned down.
This is also called “The Medeciè,” and may be curved in front as shown
on this diagram, or shaped as shown on Diagram 61; that is, straight up
in the front.
DIAGRAM 63.—This represents an ordinary turndown collar for a
single-breasted, three-button cutaway, sack or frock.
First decide on the distance that it may be wished to turn, say 4½
inches below the top at 7, marked on the diagram as point W.
[Illustration: DIA. 56 DIA. 57 DIA. 58 DIA. 59 DIA. 60 DIA. 61 DIA. 62
DIA. 63 DIA. 64 DIA. 65 DIA. 66 DIA. 67 DIA. 68]
From the side at neck, 5, to the break line at point A is ¾ inch; now
draw a straight line from W through A to 2.
From 2 to 6 is 1 inch, and 2 to the outside edge is 1¼ to 1½ inch.
Shape from 6 to 5 and follow the neck to the front at 7. The width, 7 to
8, is 1¾ inch.
DIAGRAM 64.—Proceed the same as just explained to A, then from A curve
the break line toward 3, which is 1 inch below point 2.
The stand is then added to 4, and the balance finished as shown.
The object in thus curving the lines is to obtain a longer edge line
which will turn smoother when made wide.
DIAGRAM 65.—This sailor-collar is drafted by the back and front
shoulder, which are laid in a closing position.
Place point 2 about ¾ inch above the top of the back, curve the neck of
the collar from 2 to 6 at the side of the neck, and then continue with a
slight curve to 7, or as low as desired.
The distance from the top of back to 3 is decided by the depth wanted,
and the width reaches to the armhole. It may be shaped as shown here, or
as represented on Diagram 69 or 70.
DIAGRAM 66.—Shows a circular collar, which is drafted by the size of the
neck.
First measure the neck of the pattern cut.
This we shall suppose to be 15 inches.
Take of this ⅓, 5 inches, and place it from 4 to 3. Mark a point in the
center. By this point sweep the circle 4, 5, 6, 7 and 3.
Add from 4 to C the depth wanted, which may extend partly over the
sleeve.
When the collar is wanted straight down, flat on the back, draw the
center-seam on line 4 to C; but when it is wanted to flare, add 1 inch
beyond C and curve the seam from 4.
The front edge can be cut from 3 to B, or as represented.
This collar, if cut in one piece, will stand straight out over the
shoulder; but when it must have a flare, cut through at 6 to A, 7 to 2,
and 5 to 1, and take out a trifle on each side of a straight line as
shown.
If still more flare is wanted on the outer edge, then instead of cutting
out, we add at 1, A and 2, overlapping 1 inch at each point, and thus
increasing the length of the outer edge.
The pieces having been cut can have the collar added, and each piece
will appear like Diagram 67. The lower part is the cape part proper,
which goes over the shoulder; the upper added part is the standing
collar, with a shape like the piece 3 to 4, 8 to 7, the curves being
alike, or similar to the shape of the cape.
DIAGRAM 68.—The front piece of the cape and collar is usually curved
back as from 3 to 1, but the line 4 to 1 is shaped by the line 5 to 4.
[Illustration: DIA. 69 DIA. 70]