DIAGRAM 54.—When the draft has been drawn to the front edge, as shown on
Diagram 52, add over the front edge for a double-breasted at B 1¾ to 2
inches, and at A 2½ to 3 inches, depending on the amount of lap-over you
wish.
As the button-holes must always be ¾ inch from the edge, it will be
necessary to take the distance from the end of the button-holes to the
center line, and place this back from the center of the front to locate
the place for the buttons.
On Diagram 53 we have shown the manner of arranging the collar on a flat
surface. In the case of double-breasted fronts the same method can be
followed by drawing the break line from the shoulder point to the point
of opening at A wherever this may be desired.
Add above O to 1 the width of the top of the back, and draw the break
line with some curve below O, as shown by the dotted line.
Next shape the collar as shown by the dotted line, or in any other form
that may suggest itself.
In drafting a collar by what may be called the old method, make the
break line straight from O to A, but instead of following this as for a
flat collar, we commence at O and curve the seam-edge by C and to about
1 inch above A; we then extend from O to 2 the width of back, and draw
the stand from D through C, along the curve to A, after which we shape
the outer edge from 1 to A, according to taste or style.
The two darts inserted in this forepart should always be put into vests,
the material of which is hard to make; but on soft goods one dart, as
shown on Diagram 55, will answer as well.
DIAGRAM 55.—On this diagram we have a change, which is generally
desirable, as the seam between the forepart and the lapel gives the
garment a close fit without the aid of extra work in shrinking in the
edge.
In cutting the lapel, follow the same rule as that used in drafting the
double-breasted jacket, Diagram 28.
Trace along the front edge of the forepart from E to B, and keep the
same shape from B to J.
Make the width from B to J 1½ to 2 inches, and across at D 2½ to 3
inches, and form the edge from J to D.
Lay it over as on the diagram, touching at B and E, and draft the collar
the same as shown on Diagram 54.
[Illustration: DIA. 54 DIA. 55]